Car Battery 6V or 12V charger

   Always we needed a charger with which we can charge the car battery. This circuit can charge
automatically, fast and rightly, batteries 6V and 12V. A basic factor in the success in the circuit operation
is the use of transformer [T1] of good quality with very good insulation and resistance in the short
circuits. The Q1 via divider R1-2, the TR1 and the R4, functions as regulated current source. The current
via the R9 drives the power transistors Q5 -6, where is strengthened X2000 times roughly. In a car
battery charger the voltage is roughly 6V until 8V. With these conditions the charge current is roughly
1.2A [is regulated by TR1]. When the battery charge slowly, is increased her voltage in across. In the 7V
it begins conduct the D1. As long as it�s increased the battery voltage is decreased the voltage in across
the R3 making Q1 conductible. This continued as far the current reaches the 6A roughly. Then via the fall
of tendency in utmost the R10, becomes driver the Q4. The current that in excess in base of Q5
grounded, confecting the current charge constant. When the battery charger [14.4V] is completely,
activated the parallel to the battery circuit that is constituted by the R6, D8, and D2 until D6.
Simultaneously turns on the D8 that shows that battery charged completely. Simultaneously Q2 turn on
from cause of voltage fall in the R6. The Q3 becomes conductible and grounding some of current in the
Q5 base. When the voltage across the battery reaches roughly in the 15V the current in the Q5 base is
very small, so that stops the battery charging. Diodes D5-6 protect the circuit from error placement of
battery or from short-circuit of big duration. Diode D4 protects the circuit from error placement of poles
of battery. Then Led D9 turns on shows the connection ERROR. Closing switch S2 short the diode D2
[6.8V], now we can charge a battery 6V. 
Adjustment.

  The inceptive charge current should be adjusted via the TR1 in 1.2A. Adjust can become
with a battery 6V. Connect in cascade with the battery a ampere meter [biggest 10A]. If
does not exist battery 6V, sorted output charger via their ampere meter and we adjust with
the TR1 the current in 1.2A. At the regulation switch S2 it should they are in the 12V place,
that is to say open. Attention should be given in the diodes D2 and D3 precision because
these protect the battery from overcharge. If the voltage deviation is up to 100mV we
believe to consider as acceptable. If you meet difficulties in the current adjustment and TR1
is not enough, you can change the resistance R4 value, until you measure charge current
become 1.2A. The two parallel resistors that constitute the R10, it should they are placed in
distance by printed board and Q5-6, because they are heated. Bridge B1 and Q5-6 should
be placed on heatsink after isolate electric from this with suitable silicone mica. Bridge B1
and the PCB where it will be placed circuit should connected with near and fat cables,
special there that the current are big. Also the lines in PCB should have proportional width
[in the drawing they appear with far line]. The manufacture should become in a good metal
box, suitable dimensions so that exists good ventilation. The all manufacture requires the
proportional experience. The WORK WITH BATTERIES REQUIRES VERY BIG ATTENTION IN
the HANDLING, BECAUSE EXIST ALWAYS the DANGER of EXPLOSION. 

R1-11=1K ohm 0.5W 5%
R2=22K ohm 0.5W 5%
R3-5-8=10K ohm 0.5W 5%
R4=2.2K ohm 0.5W 5%
Part List
D3=4.7V 0.4W Zener C1=4700uF 40V
D4-6-7=1N4148 C2=1uF 25V
T1=230Vac//15V 10A Transf. [See
D5=18V 0.4W Zener
Text]
D8=LED 5mm Yellow F1=Fuse 1A Slo Blo [5X20mm]
R6=100 ohm 0.5W 5%
R7=100K ohm 0.5W 5%
R9=470 ohm 0.5W 5%
R10=0.08 ohm 10W [2X0.18 ohm
parallel] 5W
B1=Bridge Rectifier 25A/40V
D1-2=6.8V 0.4W Zener
D9=LED 5mm Red
Q1-2=BC557
Q3-4=BC547
Q5=BD139   [On Heatsink]
Q6=2N3055 [On Heatsink]
TR1=4.7K Trimmer Pot.
Sam Electronic Circuits 10/02
S1=2X2 Switch 10A per contact
S2=1X2 step mini switch
J1...4=Flat Pin Connector
J5=6pin Connector 2.54mm pin
step
A=0-10A Ampere meter
Batt=12V or 6V Battery
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
RANGKAIAN REGULATOR POWER SUPPLY 20A

Quality Image 20A Regulated Power Supply Scheme Diagram

A heavy duty 13.8V power supply is a fine thing to have in the shack, but
unless you acquire one secondhand, is an expensive little beastie to buy.
This means building one should be considered, not only for the cost savings,
but also because you can brag about it on air to your mates. Of course,
careful consideration must be given to the properties of the completed
supply, and after talking to a few of my friends who have built their own and
fallen into all the traps, here are the printable ones : RF proof, easy to
make, commonly available parts used, but above all CHEAP.

Well, last things first. Breaking down the construction costs of a heavy duty
regulated supply, they are in order:

 The transformer (around $A80)

 The main filter electrolytics - around $A80
 The case - a metal case is well beyond the workshop capabilities of many
amateurs and is quite expensive to buy (if you can).
 The meter - around $A20-$27 (either digital or analogue)
 The electronics - transistors, resistors, diodes, etc.
 All the bits - fuseholders, terminals, switches, solder tags, nuts and bolts,
power cords, etc.
Charger aki ini bisa digunakan untuk aki jenis apa saja. Rangkaian ini otomatis, mampu mengisi aki
dengan arus 4 A hingga voltase aki mencapai titik tertentu. Pada titik ini arus pengisian menjadi sangat
kecil.

Jika voltase aki berkurang lagi, rangkaian akan kembali mengisi aki hingga mencapai titik voltase tadi.
Jadi, rangkaian bisa tetap disambungkan ke aki agar aki selalu dalam kondisi penuh tanpa harus takut
merusak aki. Sebuah LED akan menyala untuk menandakan bahwa aki sudah penuh.

Komponennya

Komponen >> yang baris paling depan.

Jumlah >> setelah baris depan ada spasi.

Ukuran >> setelah baris dua ada spasi.

maklum, cuman kopi paste aja, dari bentuk kolom.... jadi hanj=cur dech
R1, R3 >> 2 >> 330 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R2 >> 1 >> 100 Ohm 1/4W Pot
R4, R5, R7, R8 >> 4 >> 82 Ohm 2W Resistor
R6 >> 1 >> 100 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R9 >> 1 >> 1K 1/4W Resistor
C1 >> 1 >> 220uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1 >> 1 >> P600 Diode Diode penyearah 50 V 5 A atau yang lebih besar lagi
D2 >> 1 >> 1N4004 Diode 1N4002, 1N4007
D3 >> 1 >> 5.6V Zener Diode
D4 >> 1 >> LED (Merah, Hijau, atau Kuning)
Q1 >> 1 >> BT136 TRIAC
Q2 >> 1 >> BRX49 SCR
T1 >> 1 >> 12V 4A Transformer Lihat Catatan
F1 >> 1 >> 3A Sekering
S1 >> 1 >> SPST Switch, 120VAC 5A
Lain-lain >> 1 >> Kabel, PCB, Heatsink untuk U1, Casing, Jepit buaya untuk aki mobil, sekering dan rumah
sekering

Catatan:

1. R2 harus diatur untuk menentukan batas voltase yang diinginkan. Aki basah biasanya di-charge
dengan voltase 13,8 V, sedangkan aki kering dan semi kering 14,5 - 14,9 V. Cara mengesetnya, putar
potensio R2 hingga berada di posisi tengah, hidupkan charger, pasang aki yang akan di-charge. Amati
proses pengisian dengan voltmeter hingga voltase aki mencapai voltase yang diinginkan. Kemudian
putar potensio R2 hingga LED menyala. Charger sudah siap digunakan sekarang. Untuk men-charge
berbagai macam tipe aki, lakukan hal yang sama untuk tiap aki dan tandai posisi potensiometer R2 untuk
tiap tipe aki.

2. Q1 harus diberi heatsink. Jika rangkaian dikemas dalam casing, maka diperlukan fan kecil yang bisa
dicatu dari keluaran D1.

3. T1 adalah transformator dengan voltase primer sesuai dengan voltase lingkungan kerja Anda, dan
sekundernya sekitar 12V. Dengan voltase yang lebih tinggi (16 - 18V), Anda bisa men-charge aki dengan
voltase 16V.

4. Jika rangkaian dimatikan, aki harus dilepas dari rangkaian, jika tidak maka rangkaian akan menguras
aki pelan-pelan.

http://www.aaroncake.net
 THE ELECTRIC WAVE

ALKALINE CHARGER

This circuit was specifically designed to recharge alkaline cells. The unusual
connection of the transistor in each charging unit will cause it to oscillate, on and off,
thus transferring the charge accumulated in the capacitor to the cell. The orange LED
will blink for around 5 times a second for a 1.37V cell. For a totally discharged cell
the blinking is faster but it will decrease until it will come to a stop when the cell is
charged. You may leave the cell in the charger as it will trickle charge and keep it at
around 1.6V. To set the correct voltage you have to connect a fresh, unused cell and
adjust the trimmer until oscillations set in, then go back a little until no oscillation is
present and the circuit is ready to operate. You should use only the specified
transistors, LED colors, zener voltage and power rating because they will set the final
voltage across the cell. A simple 9V charging circuit was also included: it will charge
up to around 9.3V and then keep it on a trickle charge: the green LED will be off
while charging and will be fully on when the battery is close to its final voltage.

A 2.5VA transformer will easily charge up to 4 cells at the same time although 2 only
are shown in the schematic. In order to minimize interference from one circuit to the
other they have nothing in common except the transformer and, in order to show a
 balanced load to the transformer, half of the charging units will use the positive
sinewave and the other half the negative sinewave. Make sure to use high beta
transistors such as BC337-25 or better BC337-40. Given the dispersion of the
transistor parameters it might happen that oscillations do not take place. Use a slightly
higher zener voltage: 7.5V instead of 6.8 or a green led in place of the orange ones.

All types of alkaline cells can be recharged: it will take 1 day for a discharged AA cell
or 9V battery and up to several days for a large D type cell. The best practice is not to
discharge completely the cell or battery but rather to give a short charge every so
often although admittedly this is not easy to achieve. Do not attempt to recharge a
totally discharged cell or a cell showing even the slightest sign of damage.

I tried successfully to recharge NiMH cells as well. Although the charging profile for
these cells is quite different from alkaline cells, the circuit seems to work fine
provided you do not leave them in the charger forever, because of the possibility of
overcharging especially for the smaller batteries.

The mains transformer must be suited for the voltage available in each country:
usually 230Vac or 115Vac.

5W  INVERTER

A single transistor is all you need for this simple inverter. The main aim of this
circuit is to provide a suitable supply for all kind of low power battery chargers that
normally connect to the mains such as mobile phones, electric shavers, etc, even an
electronic neon light rated at 5W was successfully connected. Only easily obtainable
components are used. The transformer is a standard 10VA mains transformer with two
6V windings connected as shown in the schematic. Frequency of operation is between
 70 and 190Hz depending on the nature of the load. This frequency is acceptable by
most devices but obviously it is not suitable to drive frequency dependent appliances
such as clocks or small motors that depend on the mains frequency in order to operate
reliably. The transistor will not require any additional heatsink if it is assembled on
the metallic case provided for the inverter. The neon glow light will give a useful
indication, and warning, on the presence of a dangerous voltage at the output. A 2.5A
fuse on the input supply line would be a useful addition. Operation is simple: switch
on the unit and connect the load keeping an eye on the neon glow light which should
be always on: certain switching chargers demand an initial peak current effectively
shorting the output and switching off the neon: in this case you have to try repeatedly
to connect the load until it works. A temporary short at the output and a temporary
voltage reversal at the input will not damage the unit. Efficiency was not a design
parameter however it was measured to be between 50 and 60%. If you have a 110V
mains transformer and consequently a 110VAC output you should change the 0.1μF
capacitor to 0.22μF, 400V. The waveform is only vaguely sinusoidal. Invert the
connection of one of the 6V windings if oscillations do not set in.

CAR BATTERY TESTER

 

Checking the status of your car battery (accumulator) should be easier with this
circuit which measures the internal resistance of the battery. Pulses generated by the
 555 are used to drive a dummy load and the AC voltage which develops across the
battery gives an indication of its internal resistance: the lower the voltage the healthier
the battery. The AC voltage is read out by means of a digital meter connected at the
output. Separate leads are used for the dummy load and for the metering circuit. They
should be connected to their respective battery lugs but they should not touch each
other. This avoids erroneous readings due to less than perfect contacts of the dummy
load. The internal resistance depends on the battery temperature as well; this is the
reason for the switch: hot means a battery (not ambient) temperature between 35 and
52 degrees Centigrade, normal is for a temperature between 16 and 34 degrees and
cold is good for a temperature from -4 to 15. Beyond these ranges the reading is
unreliable. The internal resistance depends also on the rated capacity of the battery.
The 100 ohm potentiometer sets the battery capacity: it is rotated totally to positive for
a 100Ah battery and totally to negative for a 32Ah battery. A dial with uniform
markings from 32 to 100 was used in the prototype. This means we can measure
internal resistance of batteries rated from 32 to 100Ah. As there are a number of
smaller 12V batteries around, specially for alarm systems, a switch was introduced
that, in the X1 position, will change the capacity range to 3.2 - 10Ah. The unit has six
leads going out of the box: two for the dummy load, two for the metering section and
two going to the digital meter. Operation is simple: set the range, temperature and
battery rating, then connect the dummy load and the metering leads to the battery lugs
and read the ac voltage: you should be safe if it reads below 10-12mV otherwise it is
better to give the battery a good recharge and if it is still beyond 10-12mV then
probably you need a new battery. A bright orange LED shows that the unit is
connected and in operation.

ELECTRONIC FUSE
 Full short-circuit and overcurrent protection is given by this circuit suitable for
workbench applications in technical schools and laboratories where there is a need to
work directly with the mains. Additional features are a clearly visible red lamp
indicating that the voltage is present, good isolation of the output circuit when the unit
is off, only a few millivolts were measured with no load, current threshold adjustable
over a limited range and the possibility of remote cutout: the 6V from the secondary
can be taken anywhere, normally where you are working, even far away from the
protection circuit. Pressing the push button will short-circuit the winding and the
circuit will switch off thus removing the mains voltage. A suitable led is placed
together with the push button to show whether the circuit is in operation or not.
Additional remote cutout circuits can be wired in parallel if so required. The circuit
will switch off if a short is applied at the output without blowing the fuse but it will
blow if you try to activate the circuit if a short is already present. If in doubts, first
activate the circuit and then apply the load. The BTB12-600SW is a snubberless triac
while the T0805 is a standard triac: you may use other equivalent types but because of
the way triacs are driven you cannot use, in this circuit, a snubberless triac instead of a
standard triac and viceversa. The 250 μH inductor is a coreless inductor made with
100 turns of 1mm enamelled wire over a form 27mm diameter and 12mm wide. The
mains transformer is a standard transformer with split primary wired in such a way
that the circuit will self-sustain once it is activated. The same circuit was implemented
with a current limit between 0.1 and 0.3A. In this case you have to change the fuse
from 6.3A to 1.5A and the sensing resistor from 1Ω  to 10Ω. This resistor must be the
cemented type not the armoured type. The latter is not able to withstand the temporary
high overload that takes place during a short-circuit condition. Voltage drop from
input to output is between 1V for little or no load and 3.6V with a load current of 2A.
 PULSE  RELAY

This circuit will convert a standard relay to a pulse relay; pressing the button will
switch it on and pressing it again will switch it off. For this purpose you need a relay
with 2 sets of contacts: one is used for the circuit and the other is available for an
outside circuit. Sometimes it is difficult or impossible to find a stepping relay,
normally used in electrical wiring, and this is a viable solution. The relay used in this
circuit was a power relay with 10A contacts and a coil resistance of 28Ω. The circuit
will draw no power when idle and it is possible to scale up the circuit to operate at a
higher voltage. The relay must be always rated at half the supply voltage, in our case
it is a 6V relay for a 12V supply. The resistor in series with the coil must have a
similar resistance as the coil or slightly higher and the other resistor should be twice
the coil resistance. All capacitors are 25V. The capacitors value depends on the coil
resistance: the higher the resistance the lower the value. As it takes a certain time to
charge the capacitors it is necessary to wait about 0.5-1sec between one operation of
the push button and the next. An unregulated 12V power supply is adequate for this
circuit.  

LED SHINE
 If you wish to have some really nice looking LED's shining out of your equipment
panel, you may try the following trick: pass repeatedly a fine sandpaper on the surface
of any transparent and clear LED until the same surface is all worked out to a whitish
look.
 
There is nothing else to do but to switch it on and enjoy the pleasant look of it. Do not
use the extra fine sandpaper as it will not cut deep enough in the LED plastic material,
in other words the sandpaper normally used for metals is not suitable. As the
difference with a standard LED was remarkable I did some tests in order to compare
 
them: picture 2 and 5 refer to the normal clear LED, red in these tests, shining right in
front of a screen and tilted at about 60° respectively. The results were as expected:
very bright when viewed on axis and dimmer when off axis. The same LED (picture 1
and 4) after the "treatment": it is slightly dimmer when viewed right in front but it is
much brighter when it is off axis and it gives a much better overall appearance.
Picture 3 and 6 refer to a standard diffused LED and as one can clearly see, it is just
too dim. The white part of the picture is where the light is most intense and full of
infrared light. As most digital cameras are quite sensitive to infrared light, it is
recorded as a white area. This is not really a circuit but I thought to share it with you
and unless you need the extra brightness of a front shining LED you may use this trick
with any clear LED, blue LED's being especially attractive.