VASANT R KOTHARI - has done

Master’s in Textiles Technology

from DKTE’s Textile and
Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji
(Shivaji University, Kolhapur),
Maharashtra. He has also done
Diploma in Export Management
(Apparel Export) from the Indian
Institute of Export Management,
Basic elements
and Garment Export and
Merchandising Management
from NIFT, Bangalore. Presently,
of knitting
The basic elements of knitting machines are knitting needles, sinkers, jack,
he’s working as an Assistant cams and yarn feeding. Knitting needles are the main elements of any
Professor in Department of knitting machines which have already been discussed in the previous article.
Fashion Technology, NIFT,
Bangalore. (This is his fourth input The sinker
The sinker is the second primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate
from the series of articles in
with an individual or a collective action operating approximately at right
knitting Views) angles from the hook side of the needle bed, between adjacent needles.

24/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2010

 Fig 4.1 Position of
sinker and needle
Fig 4.3 Action of the loop- Fig 4.4 Action of the knock-
forming sinker over sinker

The main parts of sinkers are as follows:

1 – Butt 2 – Butt breadth 3 – Height of shank
4 – Buldge 5 – Neb 6 – Length of neb 7 – Throat angle
8 – Sinker platform height 9 – Breadth of lower shank
10 – Clearance 11 – Throat
The jack
The jack is a secondary weft knitting element, which may be
used to provide versatility of latch needle selection and
movement. It is placed below and in the same trick as the needle
and has its own operating butt and cam system.

The cam
Knitting cams are solid steel plates and with the assembly of
different cam plates a track for a butt can be arranged. Each
needle movement can be obtained by means of cams acting on
the needle butt. The fig 4.5 shows the simplest cam design.

Fig 4.2 Main components of sinker

Sinkers may perform one or more of the following functions;

dependent upon the machine’s knitting action and consequent
sinker shape and movement:
• Loop formation • Holding-down • Knocking-over
The main function of the sinker is to assist the needles in the loop
formation by sinking or knitting newly laid yarns into loop as its
forward edge or catch (C) advances between the two adjacent
needles. This is only for bearded needle, whereas on latch needle
weft knitting machines and warp knitting machines, loop formation
is not a function of the sinkers.
Fig 4.5 Knitting cam design
The second and more common function of sinkers on modern
machines is to hold down the old loops at a lower level on the
Cams are devices, which convert the rotary machine drive into a
needle stems than the new loops that are being formed, and to
suitable reciprocating action for the needles and other elements.
prevent the old loops from being lifted as the needles rise to
The upward movement of the needle is obtained by the rising
clear them from their hooks. The protruding nib or nose of sinker
cam or clearing cam. The rising cam places the needle at a certain
(N) is positioned over the sinker loop of the old loop (O),
level as it approaches the yarn area. Cams controlling the
preventing it from rising with the needle.
downward movement of the needles are called stitch cam. The
The third function of the sinker – as a knock-over surface – is stitch cam draws the needle down below the knitting level,
illustrated in Fig.4.4 where its upper surface or belly (B) supports thereby drawing a loop formed by the fed yarn through the loop
the old loop (O) as the new loop (NL) is drawn through it. already on the needle. The lowest point to which the needle is

KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2010/ 25

drawn by the stitch cam is called the “cast-off” position. They
are screwed to the cylindrical cam ring and are adjustable in
vertical direction. If the stitch cam is raised, then shorter loop is
drawn below the sinker level and a tighter fabric will result. With
lowering the cam, a reverse result is obtained.
Guard cam keeps the needle butts in their raceway. Running cam
or up-through cam keep the needle butts at a low level until they
meet the next rising cam.
Fig 4.6 Cams and Latch needle moment
Fig 4.7 Needle and Sinker cam system
26/KNITTING VIEWS/JULY-AUGUST 2010
The needle cam race consists of
1 Clearing cam 2 Stitch cam 3 Up-throw cam, which are
vertically adjustable together for alteration of stitch length
4 and 6 Guard cam 5 Return cam
The three sections of the sinker cam race are
7 Race cam 8 Sinker withdrawing cam 9 Sinker-return cam,
which is adjustable in accordance with the stitch length
Cam systems generate both the needle and the sinker
displacements for sinker machines and cylinder and dial
displacements for double jersey machines. Fig 4.7 shows both
the sinker cam track above and the needle cam track below. The
needle track shows the typical three stage needle displacement
of (1/4) the raising or clearing cam, (2/3) the lowering or stitch
cam and (5/6) the guard cam that returns the needle to its entry
position for the next cam system. The sinker track shows the
engaged position (section 7) when the needle is clearing. The
sinker disengages in sections 8 and 9 so that knock-over can
take place and re-engages into section 7. The displacement
diagrams of the needles and sinkers are also shown.
Fig 4.8 Modern four
track cylinder cam block
Yarn feeding
Basically two types of yarn feeding are there
• Moving the needles past the stationary yarn feed
• Most circular weft knitting machines have revolving needle
cylinders and stationary cams, feeders and yarn packages.
In this case, the fabric tube must revolve with the needles,
as must the fabric rollers and take-up mechanism
• Moving the yarn past the stationary needle bed
• As when the yarn moves past the needles, the fabric will be
stationary because the loops hang from the needles. This
arrangement exists on all warp knitting machines, and on
weft knitting machines with straight beds and circular
machines with stationary cylinders and dial
(In the next issue, we would be discussing about
the Knitted loop structure and notations.)