Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Great American Road Trips: Mind-Blowing
Great American Road Trips: Mind-Blowing
Bajan bliss
Kicking back
in Barbados
On the
Produced in International
Media Production Zone
prowl
Indian tiger
safaris
Great American
total guide
Fire-breathing
in Jakarta road trips
From cruising and schmoozing in LA to rollin’
with the cowboys in Texas, the US is best explored
Cosmopolitan by car – so hop in, fill up and hit the freeway
Cardiff
Plus! Win a weekend stay for two at the Cove Rotana Resort – turn to p71 to find out how
CONTENTS
Travel bites features
07 Agenda 66 City guide: jakarta 21 essential selection
Everything you need to know about travel this month You’ll love it or hate it but never forget it From the sublime to the (slightly) ridiculous: we show
12 Ask the expert 68 City guide: cardiff you around the Gulf’s most incredible hotel rooms.
Your travel questions answered Castle-spotting in the Principality 28 tropic of conversation
14 Drive time 70 Details Balmy Barbados, away from the glitzy resorts
France in the autumn – it doesn’t get much better Find your nearest Kanoo outlet 37 total guide: road trip usa
16 Picture this 71 Competition Want to drive through America? Here’s the lowdown
Daydream with these incredible travel photos Win a stay at the Cove Rotana Resort on where to go (and where to sleep along the way)
28 48 39 22 63 69
On the cover: Managing Director: Victoria Hazell-Thatcher Editor: Ele Cooper Designer: Matthew McBriar
‘Golden Publishing Director: John Thatcher ele@hotmediapublishing.com matt@hotmediapublishing.com
Gate Bridge
Above Mist’, Advertisement Director: Chris Capstick +971 4 375 7617 Production manager: Haneef Abdul
shot by Ed chris@hotmediapublishing.com Art Editor: Jenni Dennis haneef@hotmediapublishing.com
Pritchard, +971 4 369 0917 jenni@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 369 0918
courtesy
Jan-June 2010
of Getty 22,620 BPA
Images. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are
Consumer Audit
correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller.
‘Tropic of conversation’, ‘Total guide: USA road trips’ and ‘Easy tiger’ reprinted with the permission of Sunday Times Travel magazine. Produced by: HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC
Book it now
Base Qatar
Next time you’re
staying in the Qatari
capital check out
the newly opened
Oryx Rotana: it’s
the closest hotel to
Doha airport, making
it perfect for short
stays, but the Jazz
Club, opulent pool
and city-sleek décor
are sure to make you
want to extend your
trip. www.rotana.com
Global Gourmet
Celebrity chef Gary who’s a good friend of mine. I’d order
Rhodes, who recently the Tournedos et Tranche de Foie Gras
opened new restaurant Poeles, Gratin de Macaronis, Ragout
Rhodes Twenty10 de Legumes Rotis – Scotch fillet of
at Dubai’s Le Royal beef and foie gras, port sauce and
Meridien (www. truffled macaroni cheese. La Chapelle,
leroyalmeridien-dubai.com), tells us meanwhile, is set in a beautiful old
where he’d choose to dine when in his building and has a relaxed atmosphere.
home city of London. It’s a great place to take friends if you
‘I’d either head to Le Gavroche or want to impress; I love the red mullet
La Chapelle. The former is a culinary soup with gruyère and croutons, and
institution, opened by the godfathers also the Supreme of Landaise chicken.’
of the industry – the Roux brothers www.le-gavroche.co.uk,
– and it’s also run by Michel Roux Jr, www.galvinrestaurants.com
Cairo conundrum
A boutique hotel in the suburbs or a city-centre newcomer? You decide…
British brollies
location Leaving the sunny GCC for
Maadi, 12km from the city centre Corniche, Garden City
size rainier climes this autumn? Then
13 bedrooms 191 bedrooms
snap up one of these über-cool
Décor
Draws on the building’s colonial past, with Soothing neutrals livened up with the odd umbrellas, available online at www.
a period feel and modern Egyptian art feature wall of patterned wallpaper
londonundercover.co.uk for $75
Highlights
The pool, surrounded by lemon, mango, Floor 10, a ‘destination floor full of surprises’ – they offer worldwide shipping.
olive, guava and palm trees which includes exquisite local cuisine
We love this fish and chips brolly,
Details
From $265; www.villabelleepoque.com From $240; www.kempinski.com complete with newspaper wrapping.
Guilt-free getaway
Abu Dhabi’s Yas Hotel (www.theyashotel. Love indulgent holidays, hate
com) opens its new ESPA, featuring a the resultant weight gain?
contemporary hammam, on September Brown’s Hotel in London (www.
1 – plus turn to p26 for an exclusive peek brownshotel.com) has the
inside the incredible Presidential Suite, solution: tea-tox. It’s a healthy
also being unveiled this month. take on their award-winning
traditional afternoon tea, with
delectable options like dark
rye bread with smoked salmon
and low-fat crème fraîche, and
blueberries and low-fat lemon
cream served in a sugar-free
chocolate cup. As if that wasn’t
enough to alleviate your guilt,
the in-house fitness specialist
has devised bespoke sightseeing
jogging routes, and you can
also request an in-room fit kit
complete with workout routines.
If you travel to India a lot, register with Etihad’s new loyalty programme at www.etihadindiaconnect.com
to enjoy a host of frequent flier benefits, including exclusive member discounts on hotels and restaurants.
book it now
King o’ Pop Kanoo Travel has come up
Did you know that, shortly before he died, Michael Jackson lived trumps this month with four
in a converted cowshed in rural Ireland with his three children? incredible reader offers:
Nope, us neither, but it turns out the megastar headed for Grouse Lodge, in County Westmeath, Three nights’ B&B at the
Images: iStockphoto; One and Only Resorts; Rotana; Le Royal Meridien; The Yas Hotel; Villa
Belle Époque; Kempinski; Brown’s Hotel; www.londonundercover.co.uk; Grouse Lodge.
just after his infamous Bahrain sojourn. The owners managed to keep Jackson’s presence secret Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai,
for several months, and when word did eventually get out – the singer had been spotted in the for $999pp
nearby village of Moate – locals became so protective of him that one farmer was even reported Three nights’ B&B at
to have threatened to empty slurry over a Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah
lurking paparazzo. Resort & Spa, Muscat, for
Jackson ended up staying for the rest of $639pp
the year – and now you can follow in his Six nights’ B&B at Shangri-
footsteps and find out exactly why he fell in La’s Villingili Resort & Spa,
love with the lush green area. Grouse Lodge Maldives, for $2,759pp
is a Georgian house-turned-residential Six nights’ B&B at the
recording studio complex and, as well as Kempinski Hotel Bahía
the occasional resident celebrity (REM and Estepona, Spain, for $949pp
Shirley Bassey have also stayed), it offers a To book, call your nearest Kanoo
15m indoor pool, cross-country quad-biking office – see p70 for contact
and archery. If it was good enough for the details. All packages subject
King of Pop… www.grouselodge.com to terms and conditions.
September
The most exciting events in the world this month.
4
International
Festival of Kites
and Air Creations
Bristol, UK
Unsurprisingly, this is a
celebration of all things
kite-shaped: this year,
serpents, shoals of fish, a
3D monkey and appliqué
specialist Kelvin Woods’
‘celebrity tribute edo kites’.
No, we’re not sure what
that means either, but
you can rest assured that
it will be a spectacularly
colourful (not to mention
jolly) affair.
www.kite-festival.org.uk
1-11 5 5 22-25 26
Venice Canmore Highland Roodharigen Monaco Yacht Magic of Masala
International Games Breda, Netherlands Show Jumeirah Bab Al
Film Festival Alberta, Canada Ginger and proud? Make Port Hercules, Monaco Shams, UAE
Venice, Italy Don your tartans for a beeline for the official Join Europe’s super-rich Learning how to cook
The 67th instalment of this Celtic festival: Coebergh Redhead Day, and check out the latest is so much better when
this annual component situated in the stunning which draws an average innovations in the luxury you’ve got a celebrity
of the Venice Biennale mountainous town of of 4,000 strawberry- boating world, admiring chef showing you the
will draw the world’s Canmore, just east of locked types each year $1.25bn worth of ropes. From September
top critics, screening Banff National Park, with redhead fashion superyachts – including 23-27, Cyrus Todiwala,
approximately 20 it features piping and shows, photo shoots, 40 previously unseen of London’s Café Spice
international films. drumming, highland picnics, and even lectures models – while you’re Namaste, will be cooking
Some will be judged dance, sheep dogs and on the background of at it. Not only is the up a storm for guests,
Image: © Bristol Kite Festival 2009.
in competitions while the caber toss – where red hair. (But if you’re in event super-glam, but but on the 26th he’ll be
others – including those strong types toss 80kg a mixed-hair couple, it’s also carbon neutral, showing you how to do
exploring new trends in wooden poles around. don’t worry: all are which will go somewhere it yourself. Unmissable.
cinema – are there solely Bizarre but impressive. welcome. Roodharigen towards alleviating long- Email jbasrestaurants@
for your enjoyment. www.canmorehighland doesn’t discriminate.) haul flight guilt… www. jumeirah.com to book
www.labiennale.org games.ca www.roodharigen.nl monacoyachtshow.com your place.
Q: Do you have any tips for handling Q: My love of eco resorts is rivalled only by
The panel toddlers during a long-haul flight? my wife’s passion for hotels that impress
A: The key to easing in-flight boredom is variety. Take a her friends. Where will tick both boxes?
Jessica
Hudson co-
number of small, individually wrapped gifts to whip out A: I would suggest Venezuela: it’s blessed with diverse
founded The Chic when your toddler starts fidgeting – consider sticker landscapes, including Caribbean coastline, Amazonian
Collection’s travel books, crayons and colouring pads, an MP3 player rainforest, the northern peaks of the Andes, and the
advisory, and is
tasked with
complete with audio books, an Etch A Sketch, and other dramatic Angel Falls – the world’s highest at 979m.
sampling endless small toys – avoiding those with tiny pieces or irritating Venezuela has an excellent network of eco lodges
luxury hotels... sound effects. It’s also worth including a few healthy from which to admire these stunning natural wonders.
Tim Woods, the
snacks (raisins, pretzels, bread sticks), as in-flight meals The Coral Lagoon Lodge, near Ocumare de la Costa
go-to man for all rarely turn up when you need them. If you don’t have (around 100km west of Caracas), is located right on
things green, is faith in your airline’s entertainment system, invest in the coast – and only accessible by sea, making it a
an international
project leader for
a portable DVD player – but don’t forget plenty of wonderfully secluded place to unwind – and has solid
the British Trust high-capacity batteries. Also pack headphones that fit eco credentials: it’s partly powered by solar energy,
for Conservation comfortably on your child’s head. the chefs use locally sourced food and the fresh water
Volunteers.
Really, though, the easiest toddler to handle on a supply comes from collected rainfall. You can dive and
Image: Singita Sabora Tented Camp.
Rachel long flight is a sleeping toddler. So, even if you’re not snorkel in sparkling blue waters by day, then relax in a
Hamilton is a
flying overnight, pack your child’s favourite cuddly toy hammock in the evenings as your wife decides which of
full-time writer
and the mother and bedtime story. Changing children into their pyjamas the day’s photos will make her friends green with envy.
of two young can also help create a calmer, sleepier environment. Tim Woods
children whom
Who knows, you might even be able to catch the end
she travels
frequently with. credits of your favourite movie! Got a question for our panel? Email
Rachel Hamilton editorial@hotmediapublishing.com.
Ready, steady, go
14 Kanoo
KanooWorld
WorldTraveller
Traveller
September
xxxx2010
2010
uluru
central australia
rock islands
palau, micronesia
essential selection
Most expensive
six senses hideaway Zighy Bay: Private Reserve
The USP: Comprising three villas, the complex has a 14m infinity
pool overlooking the Gulf of Oman as well as an exquisite copper
bathtub, private quarters for your security staff and a live-in chef.
The damage: From $15,000 per night.
www.sixsenses.com
Most eccentric
W Doha: Room 1501
The USP: Where else could you watch a movie on an Aquavision
TV from a hexagonal bathtub before going to bed, safe in the
knowledge that you’re being watched over by a life-sized model
of a horse?
The damage: From $9,000 per night.
www.whoteldoha.com
Most novel
Kempinski Mall of the Emirates: Room 216
The USP: The Grand Ski Chalet may have been around for a few
years but it’s still impossible not to get a certain childish thrill at
staying in a desert-based hotel room which offers ski slope views.
The damage: From $6,000 per night.
www.kempinski.com
Y
ou happen abruptly upon Fisher Pond, condensed milk, leaving room (just) for the guava bread
in the green heart of St Thomas parish: pudding, an old Bajan recipe. We fill our bellies, indulging
a blur of cottages on the drive from the in the classic Barbados holiday pursuit: people-watching.
coast, pink villages, a bumpy track. Then ‘The older lady, two to your left,’ I say quietly, pointing
the Great House, a weathered plantation property, with my eyes. ‘Wallis Simpson?’
materialises among the cane fields. It’s a slab of ‘Definitely more Marge Simpson.’
sepia-tinted Caribbean, stately-home-familiar Both of us are loving Barbados. For the sun and the
to the British, yet exotic against branches of red sands and the sheer unadulterated indolence, sure, but
African tulips. more than anything for the characters. Sit around for a
while and tune in – it’s like a soap opera but, tragically,
Shutters are open to the Barbados January sun, a piano- not weekly. John Chandler has the most intoxicating lilt
plink comes from within, and white-bearded owner to his voice, somewhere between Bob Marley and Pam
John Chandler shows you to one of a dozen garden Ayres. I could listen to the Bajan accent all day.
tables, covered in psychedelic bougainvillea, busy with We’re almost too heavy to stand by the time John
chattering guests. A woman gets a tablecloth caught offers us a whizz around his antiques, including a pair of
to her as she rises. Is she about to perform some El 18th-century hurricane lantern shades owned by Anthony
Stupendo whip-it-away magic act? It wouldn’t surprise Eden, Britain’s former prime minister. They’d look lovely
me; ‘camp’ is too tame a term for this place. There are in our apartment but are too big to smuggle out subtly.
pink parasols in the drinks that John’s wife, Rain, is John’s family arrived from Scotland to grow tobacco in
dispensing. Tablecloths are resplendent with Swiss- 1638. He used to run a hotel where Princess Margaret
cheese-plant motifs. Betty, eightysomething, is on the lodged (‘She stayed up too late’). Once at Fisher Pond
baby grand, playing beside a superb-looking home- he scolded Prince Harry for smoking. And he’s sorry he
cooked buffet. She launches into ‘La Vie en Rose’, and I lost Helen Mirren’s number when she visited: ‘I wanted to
glance at my partner. What have we let ourselves in for? invite her to stay. If you’re reading this, Helen…’
Graham Norton’s 50th? Carry on up the Caribbean? Home for us is Coral Reef Club. It’s set on the same
We’re light years from the demure Barbados of stretch of coast as the Sandy Lane hotel, yet it’s the
brochure clichés. A macaw screeches, putting me in mind antithesis of that gigantic glitz-fest – family-run, friendly,
of Maria Callas. (Not so much the vocal impression; just a love story. Budge O’Hara came to manage the place in
that I read somewhere about the opera singer holidaying the ’50s, bringing his wife, Cynthia – their honeymoon
on the island with her pet marmoset.) Jewel-coloured was the rocky cargo-ship passage over. Budge passed
glasses are filled, the lunch grows longer, drowsier, and away in the ’90s, but silver-haired Cynthia, with her two
Fisher Pond Great House blooms into Barbados past, like sons and their wives, still presides, like an elegant British
a lost Noel Coward play. The cooking is all done by Rain forerunner to Miss Ellie in Dallas.
– and what cooking. Based on classic recipes from across This clutch of coral-stone cottages and suites is
the West Indies, there’s curried green banana from another Caribbean classic, the kind you daydream about
St Lucia; from Martinique, a caramelly flan made with at your desk: mental blotting paper. Chunky novels
stars in ’shades
pushy. They’ll be cadging my Marlboros next. Now all
heads swivel at a sudden commotion: ‘Joan. Joan. JOAN.’
bearded fig tree, and if it weren’t for the occasional ‘Please do not
sit…’ signs you’d think the place was still lived in. Built by an Irish/
English planter in 1660, it’s a splendid window on bygone Barbados,
stuffed with spooky, lifeless-eyed dolls in the children’s room, a
wince-inducing ladies’ manicure set and old photos on the walls. But
again, it’s the people that make the moment: ‘Is that snow?’ asks
a lady out loud, studying the white drive in a monochrome 1905
picture. ‘No,’ I feel qualified to answer.
Between reading tabloid interviews with Tina Turner and Paul
Daniels at Coral Reef Club, my partner is now officially addicted to
people-watching. There’s the blonde X-ray in Lycra pants, endlessly
heading off on manic runs, as if she’s always left the iron on. There
are well-kept men who clearly work out between the boardroom
sessions back home, only a crêpe-like midriff leatheriness betraying
their middle age. And there was some fine resort dancing last night,
to band covers of Joni Mitchell and Frank Sinatra. Girls twirled and we
guys let what was left of our hair down.
One evening, we heard that Naomi Campbell and David Walliams
had recently been spotted in fashionable restaurant Daphne’s.
Out we went, under a torch-beam moon. Fashionable? Yes, in a
Previous page: Bottom Bay. Opposite from left: Luxury Plantation Suite at Coral
Reef Club; Luxury Cottage at same hotel. This page, clockwise from top left (all
Coral Reef Club): Warleigh terrace; Breakfast by the beach; Seared pepper-
crusted tuna; Stoking the barbecue.
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darkwood way. Celebrities? No – just a berk in a short-sleeved small group led by the chuckly Duane. He was quite a character, even
Burberry shirt, forcing the staff to sell a double espresso for the price if his microphone was turned up too loud, causing all in the vehicle
of a single. ‘You know, and I know,’ he hissed, ‘it’s just a little more hot to jump each time he cleared his throat to point out an unusual sight.
water.’ The discreet charm of the bourgeoisie… But inland, Barbados unravelled beautifully – untouristy, untouched
Next morning, the sky, ominous before a shower an hour ago, was – passing down avenues of palms and tunnels of overhanging
now bright blue, with canyons of puffy white clouds. The sea was mahogany, black-belly sheep grazing the waysides.
spearmint-clear. Barbados-beyond beckoned. We took off with a Animal Flower Cave, on the northern tip, was a shivery moment:
a staired descent to a mysterious, drip-drip, coral-limestone hollow,
where anemones pulsed in rock pools. A huge scallop shell in the
The brief
ceiling, embedded, then exposed by time, looked just like a hand with
Where to stay Where to eat gnawed nails. Through a gaping aperture crashed the mad Atlantic,
Coral Reef Club (www. Fisher Pond Great House (www. which brought us neatly on to Billy Ocean, the singer. ‘He filmed a
coralreefbarbados.com) has chandelierweddingsbarbados.net) video here in the ’80s,’ Duane explained, almost wistfully, I thought.
Images: Photolibrary, Small Luxury Hotels of the World,
rooms from $420 B&B. On has a Caribbean buffet Sunday As we chugged over Cherry Tree Hill, the island fell away
the Atlantic coast at Tent Bay, lunch (served from 1pm) for $50pp. dramatically to the east, down to the Atlantic Coast at Bathsheba,
iStockphoto, Essential Details, Elegant Hotels.
near Bathsheba, The Atlantis Daphne’s (www.daphnesbarbados. each headland nudging further out, fading into mists. The longing for
(www.atlantishotelbarbados. com) has mains for around $40. what was never home: I’m not sure why it exists, but I know that it
com) reopened this year after an does. I felt it myself as the day closed and Duane dropped me off at
extensive refurb; rooms from $255 Sightseeing the prettily lit Coral Reef Club, for some people-watching from a soft
B&B. Or try Sea-U Guest House Sunbury Plantation House (www. sofa, over a big cold drink.
(www.seaubarbados.com; from barbadosgreathouse.com), St
$129 B&B), an informal, cosy little Philip; 9.30am-5pm. Animal Clockwise from top left: Room at the refurbed Atlantis; St James beach; Daphne’s
east-coast retreat. Flower Cave, St Lucy; 9am-5pm. – the place to see and be seen; Plumeria thrives in Barbados’ tropical climate.
Privacy-seekers will love the Fraser Suites: recently opened, each ‘room’ is actually a serviced apartment. They’re so well-equipped you
don’t even need to venture into the corridor if you don’t want to – there’s in-suite dining, state-of-the-art entertainment (including iPod
docking station, 40” LCD TV and DVD player) and an ultra-mod kitchen which allows you to cater for yourself if the urge takes you. The
décor is perfect, with classy, muted tones complemented by warm lighting and incredible views of the Burj Khalifa and Palm Jumeirah. But
it might be worth leaving your suite if only to sample the in-house amenities, which include a 25m lap pool, tennis and squash courts, gym
and Awazen Medical Spa. Bliss.
http://dubai.frasershospitality.com
Stay at the Fraser Suites before the end of September and get a one-bedroom suite plus breakfast for two for just $155++
Begin your journey in a whole new class. Hertz is proud to be the only rental company that features the
Mercedes C Series, GLK350, and the 2010 Motor Trend Car of the Year® contender, E Class. Every Prestige
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with Hertz, the car you reserve is the one you get. For reservations, contact your travel agent or the Hertz
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One of them is yours.
TOTAL GUIDE
A week: Towards the Rio Grande and the Alamo, then take Highway 90 through old Indian trail. Detour to Hyannis (summer
This road trip takes you across Texas to Big long stretches of Big Sky country to Big Bend. home of the Kennedys) to visit the JFK
Bend National Park, and one of the West’s In the small towns there’s a real old-west feel; Museum and pay homage at the statue of the
best-kept secrets. Only an hour or so out of in the parks (www.nps.gov/bibe) there’s hiking, Wampanoag Indian chieftain who sold Cape
New Orleans and you’re in Louisiana back rafting, and glider rides. Don’t miss Highway Cod for $30 and two pairs of trousers. Finish in
country, which is still inhabited by French- 70, which climbs spectacular desert buttes, for Provincetown, where the Pilgrim Fathers first
speaking Cajuns (stop here for zydeco music views of the Rio Grande. stepped ashore in 1620.
and juicy crawfish). Sign up for one of the
swamp tours in Henderson to go head to head One day: Cape Cod Four days: Blues Highway
with ’gators. Then head west to Texas, bypass Start in Plymouth, checking out the Pilgrim To discover America’s musical taproot, head
Houston, and spend a night in music-centric Fathers’ first settlement, before crossing the to the Mississippi Delta. The blues was born
Austin, where you might catch tomorrow’s bridge into the Moby Dick world of Cape along its back roads, and all the great artists –
rock stars playing for tips. Head west again Cod. Forego the big mid-Cape Highway for Howlin’ Wolf, Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker
into the Hill Country, jink south to San Antonio the coastal road 6A, which winds along an – came from the Delta, an area smaller than
Clockwise from far left: Believe it or not, it can be hard in America – a pristine road. No billboards, no past Central Park, on a stretch once known as
catching a cab on Fifth Avenue; Altogether quieter scene
in Provincetown, Cape Cod; The open road in Big Bend motels, no gas stations; just lay-bys, a few Millionaire’s Row. From 105th St to 82nd St,
National Park; Blue Ridge Highway is stunning in autumn.
visitor centres and uninterrupted views of it’s Museum Mile; next up is Midtown, with the
Wales. Highway 61 is the key route but detour forest-clad mountains. For some Appalachian Rockefeller Centre, the Empire State and the
down Highways 49 and 1: you’ll see towns culture, and to hear bluegrass music, take Flatiron building. Dangerously upmarket stores
like Indianola, where BB King used to play the side roads into local towns – Asheville is begin to loom – Bergdorf Goodman, Tiffany
on street corners (he returns every year for a home to the annual Mountain Dance and Folk & Co – but your final destination is Second
homecoming concert), and Greenville, which Festival (www.folkheritage.org). Ave Deli (156 Second Ave), one of New York’s
hosts the Mississippi Delta Blues and Heritage greatest foodie joints.
Festival every September. Clarksdale, where One hour in a taxi, depending
Muddy Waters caught the train to Chicago, is on traffic: Fifth Avenue
In the know
Blues Central. Don’t miss Morgan Freeman’s Running down the centre of Manhattan, Fifth
Ground Zero, a great blues lounge there. The Avenue revels in its reputation as the most It’s easy to rent a car in America – specialists
route ends in Memphis, home to the man who expensive street in the world. But a cruise such as Hertz (www.hertz.com) are dotted
took the blues to the world. along it is a journey through the many faces throughout the country. Or consider a drive-
of New York. Hop in a cab at its northern end away car – an agency enlists you to deliver a
Two days: Blue Ridge Parkway on the Harlem River and head south, passing client’s vehicle to a specific destination and you
Known as America’s Favourite Drive, the Blue venues where the great jazzmen discovered just pay the gas (see www.autodriveaway.
Ridge Parkway sweeps along the crest of the be-bop. Off to the left, between 115th St and com). And why not save money by checking
Appalachians, from Virginia to Tennessee’s 111th St, is Spanish Harlem, where samba rules. www.gasbuddy.com? It lists gas stations
Great Smokies. The Parkway is that rare thing With a sudden shift of gear, you’re cruising selling the cheapest petrol from state to state.
Law-abiding citizen
Don’t cruise up and down Sunset Boulevard
at night – it’s been made illegal to reduce noise
and racing. Tip valet parkers $5-$10. Don’t have
an accident in Beverly Hills: you won’t find a
hospital in that part of the city, ‘because nobody
ever gets ill in Beverly Hills’. Always stop dead at
a Stop sign. Even slowly rolling past one, when
the road ahead is clear, can mean a $195 fine.
Motorways are called freeways. The speed limit
on Californian freeways is 65mph (100kph); on
other roads it’s 25mph (40kph). LA roads can be
up to 40km long, so don’t use street numbers
to navigate: ask for the ‘cross street’ – which
crosses the main road – nearest your destination.
Easy Rider of an America that’s deeply uneasy with itself, Holly (Sissy Spacek) who watches her life
(Dennis Hopper, 1969) whose lingering divisions resonate even today. degenerate from a straightforward across-
This is the film that THE ROUTE: Interstate 10, from El Paso in the-tracks teen romance into a bloodbath, as
launched a thousand Texas, on the Mexican border, to New Orleans. Kit (Martin Sheen) hones his shooting skills on
bike trips, as the laid- That’s almost 2,000km across two states so Spacek’s dismal father, and is soon applying
back Wyatt, played by you’ll need a week. them liberally across two states. It’s a bleak
Peter Fonda, and Billy RELIVE THE MOMENT: The famous scene introduction to Badlands National Park, yet
(Dennis Hopper), his in the redneck café, featuring genuine locals, the movie still pulls fans across the Atlantic.
uncool sidekick, rev their way from Mexico takes place in the village of Morganza, It’s down to Badlands’ haunting but irresistible
to New Orleans for Mardi Gras. Easy Rider northwest of New Orleans, off Highway 61. portrait of the Midwest: craggy, Stetsoned old
features road-movie motifs galore: striated MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: ‘What you men; small-time school ma’ams; and petrol
pink and purple sunsets, neon-lit motels, represent to them is freedom… Talking about pump attendants standing solitary among sun-
desert gas stations, and a classic soundtrack by it and being it, that’s two different things.’ flaked Pepsi-Cola murals.
Steppenwolf, Hendrix and Dylan. On their way THE ROUTE: Interstate 90, from South Dakota
to New Orleans, they pass through numerous Badlands through Wyoming to Montana – roughly
clashing Americas, from a hippie commune (Terrence Malick, 1973) 600km, which you could do in a long weekend.
already going to seed, to the ultimately lethal ‘Little did I realise that RELIVE THE MOMENT: For details on South
redneck territories of the Deep South. Even what began in the Dakota’s Badlands National Park, visit www.
the non-speaking characters stand out: a alleys and backways allblackhills.com/badlands.
moustachioed café proprietress in gingham of this quiet town MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: ‘Through
smirking as her bigoted regulars taunt the duo would end in the desert and mesa, across endless miles of open
off the premises, or the black farming family, badlands of Montana.’ range we made our headlong way, steering by
who simply wave as they pass. This is a picture So says 15-year-old the telephone lines towards Montana.’
Thelma & Louise on the men of America, they shoot their way and the road trip begins, up through Texas, all
(Ridley Scott, 1991) towards Mexico. the way to LA and back down again. Along the
Sixties America didn’t THE ROUTE: From Oklahoma suburbia to way, Harry Dean Stanton’s mute Travis regains
hold much for the Mexico, purposely avoiding Texas (look at a first his speech, then his memory and his life,
country girl. Take map and you’ll appreciate how difficult that journeying with his son in a beaten-up truck
Thelma. She has no car, is). We suggest you just do the New Mexico in search of the boy’s mother – a peroxided
no money and barely to Grand Canyon bit, which measures about Nastassja Kinski. With the help of a melancholy
leaves the house for fear 1,200km (roughly two days). soundtrack by Ry Cooder, the endless scrub
of a beating from her brutish husband. Thelma RELIVE THE MOMENT: Look out for Court takes on the look of a lunar landscape – this
does, however, have Louise. And together, House Towers in Arches National Park, Utah, for is archetypal road trip territory. Here, away
Images: Photolibrary; iStockphoto; LA Photo Tour; US Fish & Wildlife Service;
Butter; Tom Meinhold for the Madonna Inn; Shady Dell; Movie Colony Hotel.
without telling a soul, Thelma, played by Geena the memorable scene where the policeman was from the mainstream cities, lies another hidden
Davis, and Louise (Susan Sarandon) embark on locked in his trunk. America, like the life beneath a rock.
a journey that takes them to one of the most MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: ‘You shoot off THE ROUTE: The section of Interstate 10 that
memorable film endings ever made. Slipping a guy’s head, believe me, Texas ain’t the place runs from Texas through New Mexico to Los
off the shackles of suburban living, the girls you want to get caught.’ Angeles – about 2,500km. You’ll need a week.
speed off for a weekend in the mountains in RELIVE THE MOMENT: The dramatic desert
their iconic 1966 green Thunderbird – but after Paris, Texas landscapes in the opening scenes of the film
stopping at a roadside café, their plans soon (Wim Wenders, 1984) are in Big Bend National Park, Texas. Take
head downhill when Louise shoots a man dead. A bearded man picks Interstate 90 to Marathon, then drive 110km
With the law hot on their heels, so begins the his solitary way across south to the park’s headquarters.
infamous road trip that makes this film the the blinding emptiness MOST ROADWORTHY QUOTE: A sign on
showpiece of a repressed feminine era. Taking of America’s southern the wall of a forgotten desert diner says: ‘The
desert. Soon he has been dust has come to stay. You may stay or pass
Top: Thelma and Louise knew how to have fun during
a pitstop. Opposite: The bleak landscapes of Badlands. rescued by his brother on through or whatever.’
K
artikeya is not happy the trail as sunlight slices through the trees
with me. Moustache in dazzling tiger-like stripes.
twitching, he squints in Just three days ago, we had arrived in
the buttery early morning the sun-baked state of Madhya Pradesh,
light, scanning the landscape for a India’s dry and dusty heartland (there’s a
suitable spot. ‘There.’ He points to a monument here marking the very middle
small, straggly bush just off the dusty of the sub-continent). Tuk-tuks buzzed
track. ‘But be quick, stay alert and don’t like angry hornets as we pulled away from
wander off.’ As loo breaks go, this must Nagpur Airport, while ladies riding side-
be the scariest I’ve ever experienced. I saddle on scooters weaved deftly among the
sheepishly climb down from the Jeep traffic, their saris billowing out behind them
and make a mental note to decline the like gaudy streamers. It was a colourful urban
pre-safari masala chai (sweet Indian scene typical of any city in India, streets filled
tea) next time. with the scents of ghee and spices, and the
clamour and clatter of hawkers. But just an
It’s just after dawn in India’s Bandhavgarh hour and a half’s drive later, we were deep
National Park, home to one of the highest in tiger country. Here, the monsoon was still
densities of tigers in the world – and I have months away, the landscape painted in an
broken one of our guide’s golden rules: never autumnal palette of gold and brown beneath
get out of your vehicle. Hurrying back to the a cloudless cobalt sky.
safety of our olive-green, open-top Jeep, India’s elusive, endangered felines once
the stillness is suddenly pierced by a high- roamed freely across this enormous state
pitched ‘whoop-whoop’ noise. Kartikeya (one of the country’s largest, but seldom
jumps up, fixing his binoculars on the dense visited by tourists). Now a network of
tangle of forest right behind the bush I have national parks provides the beasts with
just emerged from. ‘Alarm calls from spotted safe(ish) pockets of protected jungle,
deer – quick, get in. There’s a predator close although illegal poaching means numbers
by,’ he whispers urgently. We watch and are still dwindling. To see one in the wild is
wait, hearts thudding like drums. Suddenly, a privileged experience – future generations
two peacocks burst out noisily from the may not be so lucky – and for the best
undergrowth, shimmying and shaking their chance of spotting one, we had decided to
emerald-blue tails like Vegas showgirls. take in not one, but three nature reserves:
Kartikeya flashes us a Colgate-white grin and Pench, Panna and Bandhavgarh. The first
we continue onwards, bumping gently along stop on our week-long wildlife circuit is
sweet tea and flapjacks. Mist hangs low over the grassy meadows; Opposite: You never know who’s watching from afar. This page, clockwise from
the breezeless air is damp and cool. Shivering, we hug the hot-water top left: Mahua Kothi at dusk; Bedroom suite at same hotel; Luxurious bathing
at Mahua Kothi; My, what big teeth you have; Safari at Pench National Park.
bottles and blankets laid out in the Jeep, and doze gratefully during
the short ride to the park entrance.
I’m still half-asleep when we see the tiger stalking silently towards husband. And the tiger has indeed gone; straining into the distance,
us. But there’s nothing like the sight of 300 kilos of fur and fangs we see no sign of it. I’m disappointed, but feel fortunate to have had
approaching to wake you up. After days of watching and waiting, we our brief encounter earlier.
forget to take pictures or even reach for our binoculars (he’s so close, Suddenly the mahout yelps and tries frantically to hit reverse (the
there’s no need). I barely remember to breathe as he pads through elephant is having none of it). Just a few metres below our dangling
the long grass, russet stripes blending with the dappled vegetation. flip-flops lies the snarling tiger, teeth bared and understandably
Then he looks up and fixes me with a serial-killer stare that says, ‘I disgruntled at having his nap interrupted. We are so close I can count
could have you for breakfast.’ his whiskers. It’s thrilling, terrifying and utterly mesmerising – so
Instead of proving his point, however, he nonchalantly sprawls much so that I completely forget my desperate need to pee.
across the path, thick folds of velvety fur spilling around his neck, and
throws back his head in a yawn, giving us a superb view of his fierce
Images: Photolibrary; iStockphoto; Taj Safaris.
The brief
dentistry. There’s an unsettling awareness that we have rejoined
the food chain. The machine-gun fire of camera shutters signals the Where to stay When to go
arrival of other Jeeps, and with a flick of his tail the tiger – a young Baghvan, in Pench National Park, Avoid monsoon season (June to
male, Kartikeya tells us – slopes back into the shadows. and Mahua Kothi, in Bandhavgarh September) when parks are closed
A few hours later, we get the chance to get even closer to him. National Park, are both luxurious due to rain and flooding. Visit
He’s been seen sunning himself on a rocky escarpment – too steep Taj safari lodges. Each property between November and February
for Jeeps to get near. So we switch to an elephant, swaying as it offers accommodation from $685 as April and May are too hot, with
crashes through the foliage. ‘Won’t he, um, hear us coming?’ asks my per night. www.tajhotels.com temperatures reaching up to 40ºC.
HOTEL
*price is per person Single Traveller Single Occupancy Twin Share Single Occupancy Twin Share
[Per person per package] [Per person per package] [Per person per package] [Per person per package] [Per person per package]
Hotel Sentral (3*) USD 360 USD 237 USD 183 USD 53 USD 27
Hotel Coronade (4*) USD 440 USD 314 USD 223 USD 92 USD 46
Hotel Istana (5*) USD 476 USD 360 USD 246 USD 116 USD 58
The above package prices are Remarks For more information and reservations,
inclusive of the following: • Package valid for the period of 8 – 10 contact:
• 2 nights accommodation at your October, 2010 only. Dammam, Saudi Arabia: + 966 3 8355642 / 632 / 8355645
selected hotel from 8 – 10 October, 2010 • Package rate is based on minimum 2 Riyadh, Saudi Arabia : +966 14634454/2933740/4652834
• Daily breakfast persons per confirmed booking. Jeddah, Saudi Arabia: +966 2 2632875 / 2633040
• Return airport transfer on Day 1 & Day 3 • 50% surcharge is applicable for transfer Mahooz, Bahrain: +973 17 828 801 / 828 792 / 828 793
(KLIA/KL CITY HOTEL/KLIA) between 2300 hrs – 0600 hrs. Doha, Qatar: +974 4483777 / 4483704
• Return transfer on 9th October • Prices are subject to change without Dubai, UAE: +971 4 3341444
between hotel and Sepang International prior notice, Kanoo terms and Abu Dhabi, UAE: +971 2 6313900
Circuit on private basis conditions apply to all booking. Muscat, Oman: +968 24700249 / 24700279
• Mobile phone sim card
Visit Jakarta
Fire-breathing displays, contemporary art exhibitions and designer shopping are all in a day’s
work when you visit southeast Asia’s largest city – just make sure you plan around the traffic.
Opposite: You
couldn’t get much
more central than
the Mandarin
Oriental. This page,
clockwise from
top left: Travel in
style in a bajaj;
Luxury at the
Mandarin Oriental;
The Kemang Icon’s
swimming pool;
Executive suite at
same hotel; Tasty
Indonesian satay.
where to stay where to eat ARGY BAJAJY: In a hurry? Swerve around the traffic in a bajaj, the
Kemang Icon by Alila Payon bright-orange Indonesian answer to Thai tuk-tuks. FISH OUT OF
Jl Kemang Raya 1, Jl Kemang Raya 17, Kemang, WATER: Indonesia is home to the walking catfish, which can wriggle
www.alilahotels.com +62 21 719 4826 out of water and even up trees in quest of food.
This all-suite, boutique hotel in The atmospheric outdoor pagoda
south Jakarta sits above two floors setting means Payon is always
Jalan
of exclusive shops. It has über- buzzing, and its spicy rice dishes Glodok
G ajah
Mandarin Oriental
Ja
Grand Indonesia
nd
er
Tesate
al
at the Mandarin Oriental are Javanese script light-projected Payon Jalan Kolonel Soegiono
sleek and contemporary – think onto its walls, this new satay
cool neutrals complemented by restaurant is seriously upmarket.
splashes of scarlet or turquoise – Cashews, rather than peanuts,
and bathrooms feature huge bath are used in the signature sauce, Kemang Icon
tubs and dark wood units. From making for a smooth, decadent
$160 room only. flavour. Mains from $15.
Visit Cardiff
From epic rugby matches to fairytale
castles, Cardiff is the city that has it all.
C ardiff is one of the most affordable cities in the UK and yet also one of the nicest. Huge green spaces, a
gorgeous castle in the city centre and excellent shopping make it a popular tourist destination, and investment
in the older areas – most notably the now-swanky Cardiff Bay, which provides the set for much of the Doctor Who
television series – has attracted young, wealthy professionals whose presence only enhances the cosmopolitan buzz.
The Welsh are a notoriously patriotic bunch and never is this more obvious than on match days for the national
sport: rugby. But while they may roar with pride for their national team, the locals are generally garrulous and
friendly, welcoming visitors with open arms (and more often than not, an invitation to join them for a drink). Many
of Cardiff’s buildings were either built or revamped in the 19th century by then-richest man in the world John Patrick
Crichton-Stuart, third Marquess of Bute, whose tastes veered towards the fairytale-esque, though cutting-edge
design is also evident nowadays in the modern developments.
No
rth
Rd
Opposite, clockwise
Lincoln House
from left: Cardiff Ca
Castle; Castell th
e Bute Park
dr
Coch; Rugby – the
al
Rd
national sport;
Cardiff Bay. This
Cast
page, clockwise le S
t Arcades St David’s
from below: Wales Cardiff Castle The Thai House
Millennium Centre;
Arcade shopping;
Master suite at St Millennium Stadium
David’s Hotel & Spa.
Ce n
t ra
l Lin
Clare St
k
Cardiff
Rd
h
rt Co
na rp
Pe or
at
io
n
Rd
Millennium Centre
Ba Orient
St David’s Hotel & Spa
Cardiff Bay
CARDIFF MUST-DOS castle surrounded by forest. Then, TAKE A DEEP BREATH: If you get time, head north to
Explore the city centre, first back in the city, stroll around Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, if
taking in the Arcades – a network Cardiff Castle (www.cardiffcastle. only to be photographed by the welcome sign for what is the longest-
of Victorian shopping complexes com), which was built on the named town in Europe. YOU SAY TOMATO… AND SO DO THEY:
laced with one-off boutiques foundations of a Roman fort and Only 20 per cent of Wales’s population is fluent in Welsh – English is
– and then St David’s (www. decorated in painstaking detail. far more widely spoken, so you can leave the phrasebook at home.
stdavidscardiff.com), a huge Watch the sun set over Cardiff
new mall offering myriad British Bay before sampling the city’s where to stay where to eat
favourites, from department finest mocktails and dim-sum at St David’s Hotel & Spa The Thai House
stores like John Lewis and Marks the chic Ba Orient (www.baorient. Havannah Street, Guildford Crescent, Churchill
& Spencer to smaller home-grown com) – then take in a performance www.thestdavidshotel.com Way, www.thaihouse.biz
specialists including accessories by the Welsh National Opera at The light-flooded rooms at this Launched by its Thai/Welsh
shop Ollie & Nic and Karen Millen the stunning Millennium Centre high-end hotel feature Cardiff Bay owners in 1985, this award-
for frocks. (www.wmc.org.uk). views and cool décor (we love the winning restaurant dishes up
Catch a rugby match at the Have a picnic in Bute Park, a fur throws) – plus the Marine Spa exquisite fare: the prawns with
Millennium Stadium (www. glorious (and huge) green space has been voted one of the world’s coconut and kaffir lime are a
millenniumstadium.com), the in the city centre that’s flanked best. From $250 room only. must-try. Mains from $14.
74,200-capacity venue that by Cardiff Castle, the River Taff,
Government (Crown Copyright); St David’s Hotel & Spa.
hosted the FA Cup Final while Sophia Gardens and Pontcanna Lincoln House The Armless Dragon
Images: Visit Britain; Castell Coch; Welsh Assembly
Wembley was being redeveloped. Fields. The mature parkland is Cathedral Road, Wyeverne Road, Cathays,
The atmosphere is indescribable. home to a wide array of wildlife as www.lincolnhotel.co.uk www.armlessdragon.co.uk
If no one’s playing, it’s still well well as ornamental and rare trees The owners of this intimate Head here for Welsh food with a
worth booking yourself onto a – a true joy to visit. Victorian townhouse have contemporary twist – think cockle
tour of the enormous grounds. Do a day trip to the Gower retained its period features – tiled and laverbread cakes with leek
Escape the hustle and bustle peninsula, about 90 minutes’ floors, intricate cornicing – and, as fondue and truffle oil – served in
with a riverside bike ride along the drive from the city. Its expanses well as sumptuous four-posters, what feels like someone’s home
pretty Taff Trail to the gorgeous of rugged coastline and deserted added modern touches including (it could only happen in Cardiff).
Castell Coch, a fairytale-style beaches are simply breathtaking. animal prints. From $135 B&B. Mains from $20.
Bahrain EGYPT 1 Wahib Doss Str. Kanoo Travel Srilankan Airlines City Centre
Abu Obeidah Avenue Alexandria Office No 9, Maadi Rabigh Jeddah Al Mahoob Buidling
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British Airways C/O Mfo, Northern Sinai Qatar Tel. 04 321 3607 8820161 Tel. 03 585 3358/
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Manama 33 Nabil Elwakkad St Tel. 03 833 9793 Tel. 03 363 0982/84
Tel. 17 220849 Heliopolis, Cairo Old Al Salatta, Doha Bamaroof Centre
Tel. 002 02 4130375/6 Tel. 441 3441 Hail Street, Jeddah Airport Office Hertz
Egypt Air Tel. 02 653 0541 Dammam Khobar
Manama Kasr El Nil Ras Laffan Commercial Tel. 03 883 2660/2660 Tel. 03 882 2005/5597
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Kanoo Travel Tel. 002 095 2378333 Doha Tel.02 263 2959 Ext. 108 Jubail Al Khafji
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The prize
We’ve got a two-night stay including breakfast and a 30-minute massage for two to
give away to one lucky reader. To enter, simply answer the following question and
email your answer to easywin@hotmediapublishing.com.
Q. How many dining options does the Cove Rotana Resort offer?
a) Three
b) Six
c) Fifty
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Entries must be submitted on or before September 30, 2010. Prize cannot be transferred to a third party or exchanged for cash. Prize must be used before March 31, 2011.
47th Street Main Street Kanoo Building Najda Street Edinburgh Canary Wharf
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King Abdul Aziz Road Kanoo Tower Al Orouba Street, Birmingham Essex 30 – 31 Haymarket
Riyadh Riyadh Sharjah American Express Lakeside Bureau Tel. 0207 4849 600/674
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Suite dreams
Le Grotte Della Civita, Italy
Ever slept in a cave before? Neither had we, until we discovered this fascinating project, which has seen part of a UNESCO World Heritage
Site – the stone city of Matera – converted into 18 extraordinary hotel rooms. The grottoes have been lived in since prehistoric times, and
we suspect the original inhabitants might have been pretty jealous if they’d seen the luxury their humble dwellings were destined to be
steeped in several millennia later. Owners Margareta Berg and Daniele Kihlgren have restored the caves with meticulous attention to detail,
preserving all traces of the site’s history, from the centuries-old wood used for the furniture to the iron rings in the walls, which working
animals were tethered to. It’s not all dim lighting and mystery, though – venture out to the gardens and you’ll be blasted with panoramic
vistas across the Murgia Park river valley.
www.sassidimatera.com
Wherever you travel this summer, experience more with InterContinental. For every seven consecutive nights you stay at a
participating hotel in the Middle East and Africa, two of the nights will be complimentary. Spend the extra time exploring
your destination with our local knowledge to guide you, and create memories that last a lifetime.
Bahrain 800 00 880 | Egypt 0800 44 333 22 | Jordan 0800 22 666 | Kuwait 2473 2100 Ext.6233 | Lebanon (01) 426 801 (ask for 866 866 7556)
Oman 800 77 999 | Qatar 0800 971 234 | Saudi Arabia 800 8 971 465 | South Africa 0800 999 136 | UAE 800 4642