WEAVING: The method or process of interlacing two yarns of similar materials so

that they
cross each other at right angles to produce woven fabric. The warp yarns, or ends,
run lengthwise
in the fabric, and the filling threads (weft), or picks, run from side to side. Weaving
can be done
on a power or handloom or by several hand methods. (Also see LOOM and WOVEN
FABRIC.)

LOOM: A machine for weaving fabric by interlacing a series of vertical, parallel

threads (the
warp) with a series of horizontal, parallel threads (the filling). The warp yarns from a
beam pass
through the heddles and reed, and the filling is shot through the “shed” of warp
threads by means
of a shuttle or other device and is settled in place by the reed and lay. The woven
fabric is then
wound on a cloth beam. The primary distinction between different types of looms is
the manner
of filling insertion (see WEFT INSERTION, 1). The principal elements of any type of
loom are
the shedding, picking, and beating-up devices. In shedding, a path is formed for the
filling by
raising some warp threads while others are left down. Picking consists essentially of
projecting
the filling yarn from one side of the loom to the other. Beating-up forces the pick,
that has just
been left in the shed, up to the fell of the fabric. This is accomplished by the reed,
which is
brought forward with some force by the lay. (Also see JACQUARD.)

THE STUDY OF BASIC LOOM PARTS

1)Warp Beam
The warp beam is a beam that holds the warp, or vertical threads, on the loom. Depending on the
loom, this can be a simple beam or a more complex arrangement allowing for easier warping of the
loom.

WARP BEAM: A large spool or flanged cylinder around which the warp threads, or
ends, are
wound in a uniform and parallel arrangement. (Also see BEAM.)

BEAM: A cylinder of wood or metal, usually with a circular flange

on each end, on which warp yarns are wound for slashing, weaving,
and warp knitting.

3)LET-OFF MOTION: A device for controlling the delivery and tension of the warp
during
weaving.
4)GUIDES: Fittings of various shapes for controlling the path of a threadline.

PULLED-IN FILLING: An extra thread dragged into the shed with the regular pick
and
extending only a part of the way across the fabric.

DROP WIRES: A stop-motion device utilizing metal wires suspended from warp or
creeled
yarns. When a yarn breaks, the wire drops, activation the switch that stops the
machine.

HEDDLE: A cord, round steel wire, or thin flat steel strip with a loop or eye near the
center
through which one or more warp threads pass on the loom so that the thread
movement may be
controlled in weaving. The heddles are held at both ends by the harness frame.
They control the
weave pattern and shed as the harnesses are raised and lowered during weaving.

HARNESS: A frame holding the heddles in position in the loom during weaving.

HARNESS CHAIN: A mechanism used to control the vertical movements of the

harness, or
shaft, on a loom.

BEATER: 1. The machine which does most of the opening and cleaning work on a
fiber picker
and opener. Revolving at high speed, it beats against the fringe of fiber as the latter
is fed into the
machine. 2. A machine used in the paper industry for opening pulp and combining
additives.

REED: A comb-like device on a loom that separates the warp yarns and also beats
each
succeeding filling thread against that already woven. The reed usually consists of a
top and
bottom rib of wood into which metal strips or wires are set. The space between two
adjacent
wires is called a dent (or split) and the warp is drawn through the dents. The
fineness of the reed
is calculated by the number of dents per inch.

SHUTTLE: A boat-shaped device, usually made of wood with a

metal tip that carries filling yarns through the shed in the weaving
process. It is the most common weft-insertion device. The shuttle
holds a quill, or pirn, on which the filling yarn is wound. It is
equipped with an eyelet at one end to control rate. The filling yarn is
furnished during the weaving operation.
TAKE-UP (YARN-IN-FABRIC): The difference in distance between two points in a
yarn as it
lies in a fabric and the same two points after the yarn has been removed from the
fabric and
straightened under specified tension, expressed as a percentage of the
straightened length. In this
sense, take-up is contrasted to the crimp of a yarn in a fabric, which is expressed as
a percentage
of the distance between the two points in the yarn as it lies in the fabric. Take-up is
generally
used in connection with greige fabric.