Kundan keshri is a traditional Indian gemstone jewellery, a method of gem setting in a

jewellery piece, consisting of inserting gold foil between the stones and its mount, usually used
to create elaborate necklaces believed to have originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan and
Gujarat. It is the oldest form of jewellery made and worn in India[1][2].

Meena Kundan, also known as Bikaneri or Jaipuri jewellery, is popular variation in Kundan,
where in enameling with vivid colours and design is on the reverse, while the kundan setting in
the front. The city of Jaipur in Rajasthan has traditionally been the centre for kundan jewellery in
India [2].

[edit] History
It flourished in greatly in the Mughal era as it received royal patronage with the most intricate
form of Indian Gem Stone, and is the oldest form of jewellery made and worn in India, still in
use [3]. Over the years the kundan jewellery of the courts was successfully copied in silver in
Rajasthan, Bihar and the Punjab states and became popular with common man as well [4].

Even today, it remains an integral part of traditional wedding trousseau for a bride, especially as
traditional settings such as kundan, thappa and ras rawa are experiencing a revival [5]. Most
recently, in the 2008 epic film, Jodhaa Akbar, the lead character portrayed by Aishwariya Rai
was shown extensively wearing Kundan jewellery made by Tata Group's Tanishq brand,
highlighting its lasting influence in royal Rajasthani jewellery [1].

In 2006, “American diamond” and kundan jewellery contribute the largest share of both value
and volume market (73 per cent) in Indian jewellery market [6]

The word Kundan means highly refined gold, the kundan jewellery uses excessively refined
purest form of molten gold to set stones etc.

[edit] Process
Kundan Jewellery is created by setting carefully shaped, cut and polished multicoloured
gemstones into exquisitely designed pure gold or faux metal base.[3]. The elaborate process,
begins with first skeletal framework called Ghaat, thereafter the Paadh procedure takes place,
during which lac or the wax is poured onto the framework and moulded according to the design.
In the following Khudai process, fitting of stones or the uncut gems is done into the framework,
followed by Meenakari, which involves enameling to define the design details. In th next, Pakai
process, gold foils that hold the gems onto the framework are soldered and finally the gems are
polished using Chillai process [1].