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tiles – oxygen bleach

Stain Solver oxygen bleach is a fantastic product to use when cleaning a tile floor. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim
Carter

Oxygen bleach is non-toxic, doesn’t produce harsh fumes, is color safe and fabric safe. It removes all
food and grease stains with no or minimal scrubbing. The oxygen ions in the solution attack the stain
molecules breaking them into pieces that rinse away with little effort. I was so impressed with this
product I started to create my own formulation, that I trademarked as Stain Solver, and still use to this
day.

Some tile floors are installed adjacent to carpeting. If the Stain Solver oxygen-bleach solution
gets onto the carpet, there will be no problems. It will actually clean the carpet. What you may
discover is that you have to clean the carpet as there is often a dirt pathway from the tile onto the
carpet. To clean carpeting with oxygen bleach, you simply mix up the solution and use a sprayer
to saturate the carpet fibers. Let the solution soak for 30 minutes, and then use a regular carpet
shampoo machine to finish the job.

Cleaning floor tile grout makes most people grimace. I clearly remember scrubbing and
scrubbing seeing little improvement. That’s why years ago I gave up and threw in the towel, just
letting the grout get dirtier. When I used the oxygen bleach for the first time, I couldn’t believe
it. After soaking on the grout by itself, much of the grime and stains came up with little effort. A
second soaking and a little scrubbing in the worst areas made the grout look like the day I
installed it.

The best thing I discovered about my Stain Solver oxygen bleach is that it’s an all-purpose
emergency cleaner. In the past, I freaked out if one of my kids spilled grape juice or cranberry
juice on the floor. But now I just shrug my shoulders and wipe up the spill. After we’re finished
with the meal and people are relaxing, I mix up a little bit of the solution and pour it on the
freshly stained grout. Within minutes the grout looks like new with no scrubbing. It’s always
best to work on stains while they’re fresh if at all possible. But tile floors that have been dirty for
years will come clean in no time if you use Stain Solver oxygen bleach.

Once you have clean floor tiles, you can keep the grout looking like new by just adding Stain
Solver oxygen bleach powder to your mop water. Apply a liberal amount of mop water to the
floor scrubbing the tile surface with the mop. But leave the mop water in the grout joints without
rinsing the floor. The oxygen ions clean the light dirt in the grout without scrubbing. Come back
30 minutes later, and rinse the floor with clean water. If you do this each time when cleaning
your tile floor, you’ll never be on your hands and knees again with a scrub brush.

My stuff is as close to magic as you can get. It will remove red wine stains in minutes. Beet juice
is not a problem. I’ve not discovered one stain it can’t remove. Friends have tried the tile
cleaning machines, but they say my Stain Solver oxygen bleach does a much better job. You
have to always scrub a little, but that’s how anything gets clean. Mechanical agitation of any
surface is almost always necessary. You rub your skin when you shower, clothes rub against
each other in the washing machine, and you rub a sponge across your car when you clean it. It’s
just the best way to clean things.

Cleaning floor tile grout doesn’t have to be a battle. The longer you let the solution sit on the
grout, the less work you have to do cleaning tile flooring. You can let the solution sit on the
grout for hours, as the oxygen ions work for up to six hours. To get maximum cleaning results, it
helps to scrub the grout lightly after 30 minutes. Always pour new solution onto the grout as you
scrub. Most of my friends who have used my secret Stain Solver powder for cleaning floor tile
get perfect results within a half an hour.

To clean floor tiles, all you need to do is mix my Stain Solver powder, or any high-quality
oxygen bleach, with warm water. You stir it until it dissolves. The next step is to pour the
solution onto the floor tile so the grout lines are flooded with the solution as if you had spilled a
glass of water. It’s best to apply the oxygen-bleach solution to dry grout so the solution soaks
deeply into the grout. You let the solution sit on the grout for at least 15 minutes, allowing the
oxygen bleach to work on its own. If it completely soaks into the grout, you add more solution
making sure there is always plenty of the cleaning liquid on the grout.

It took me years to discover how to clean tile floors the easy way, and one that didn’t harm my
family, pets and the colored grout. Little did I know that I was way ahead of the current Green
Movement, as the solution I made was perhaps one of the most eco-friendly products out there. I
experimented with different products, but finally settled on using powdered oxygen bleach.

MARBLES

Marble is stone that is generally polished and used in fine building work, furniture, or decorative
art. It may be white or colored. It is porous, and easily stained. Marble is etched by acids. Wipe
off anything spilled on marble immediately, as you would on a wood surface. Avoid setting
beverage glasses directly on marble as they leave rings.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/marble#ixzz1Exu0UO5o

Marble may be stone, but it is porous and stains easily. Wipe off anything spilled on marble
immediately, just as you would from a wood surface. Use coasters under beverage glasses to
avoid moisture rings.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/marble#ixzz1ExuCpBvt

Regular cleaning

Occasionally wash marble surfaces with lukewarm water and wipe dry with a clean cloth.
Wiping surface with a damp chamois will not leave streaks. Once or twice a year, depending on
soil, wash with a mild detergent solution (hand dish-washing detergent and warm water), rinse
and wipe dry.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/marble#ixzz1ExuFEKxc

A light coat of wax will protect the surface of marble but is not considered essential. Use
colorless wax. Don't wax white marble as it may tend to yellow it. A marble sealer can be
applied to clean marble, which will protect from staining and allow soil to be wiped off with a
damp cloth.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/marble#ixzz1ExuMoWwS

Marble which has become dull can be livened up by using a commercial marble cleaner and
polish. Buy from a company that sells marble. Companies generally carry imported polish-
cleaners, which are used on softer imported marbles and hence safe for the harder U.S. marble.
They work faster and easier than the old "marble care kits" which used to be distributed by
marble companies.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/marble#ixzz1ExuQOLdk

Putty powder (tin oxide) can be used to polish dulled or etched surfaces, rubbing on with a damp
cloth, folding and refolding to clean damp areas, and preferably using an electric polisher for
buffing. However it's very hard to find. Severely damaged surfaces, scratched or etched, can be
polished by a business making and selling tombstones or other marble products.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/marble#ixzz1ExujCgGF

Make a poultice from white absorbent material such as a napkin, blotter, paper towel or facial
tissue, dampened with the chemical recommended below to dissolve that stain; or mix whiting
with that chemical to make a soft paste to cover the stain. The poultice should be left on the stain
from 1 hour up to 48 hours, depending on the age and depth of the stain. Plastic wrap, held in
place by masking tape, can be put over the poultice to keep it damp; otherwise it will have to be
re-dampened with the chemical periodically. Mix only enough poultice for immediate use; mix a
second batch later if another application is needed.

Organic Stains: Tea, coffee, colors bleached from paper, textiles or soft drinks. Make poultice
soaked with 20 percent peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.

Oil Stains: Oil stains may include butter, hand cream or lotion. As soon as possible, spread
surface with an absorbent fine powder such as whiting or even corn starch. After short time
brush to remove and reapply more powder. Let stand 24 hours. To remove: Scrub with hot, sudsy
(detergent) solution and stiff brush. Or wipe with ammonia-dampened cloth. In either case, then
rinse and wipe dry. If these alkaline solutions don't remove all the oil, you can try a solvent.
Make a poultice dampened with acetone or amyl acetate (available at drug stores), or with home
dry cleaning fluid. Use good ventilation with windows open to remove fumes, do not use near
spark or flame, and do not leave on too long.

Rust Stains: Usually the result of metal items such as a lamp, metal container in which plant is
placed etc. Use a commercial rust stain remover. Follow directions exactly and do not leave on
surface very long as acid in many rust removers can etch the surface.

Acids Fruit juice, carbonated beverages or other acids will etch (remove shiny surface) if
allowed to remain on marble. Wipe up acid spill immediately, and wipe surface with wet cloth. If
surfaced is etched, polishing may be required.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/marble#ixzz1ExumRb5k

Cleaning Oil Paint off Hands

While painting, if you have stained your hands with oil paint, it is not easily washable with water and
soap. Instead apply a little baby oil and wash, there will be no sign of paint and your hands will be
smooth without any roughness of the paint or any pure vegetable oil or olive oil.

How To Clean Your Hardwood Floors

Your hardwood floor is installed. Your house finally feels like a home. But now what? How do
you care for your new investment?

Meet Mat

Floor mats are a wonderful thing when it comes to hardwood floors. Tiny particles, like dirt, can
act like sandpaper and scratch your wood. By placing a floor mat at each entryway and
encouraging family members and guests to wipe their feet, the majority of dirt and grime will
remain on the mat. Also put a floor mat or rug in any area where water could be splashed — like
near the kitchen sink. This will hinder any possible water damage.

Note that rubber-backed or non-ventilated floor mats or rugs can damage your floor. Instead use
floor mats or rugs made especially for hardwood floors and be sure to shake them out regularly.

Whistle While You Work

Along with a hardwood floor comes the responsibility of keeping it clean. The better care you
take, the longer your floor will maintain its original beauty. Step one is to purchase a high quality
broom so that you can sweep your floor regularly of dirt, dust and other particles.

Second step is a vacuum cleaner without a beater bar, to get in between the boards and other hard
to reach areas.

Deeper cleaning techniques vary depending on the installation and finish of your hardwood floor.
For “Finish in Place” hardwood floors, using an 8”x14” terrycloth mop with a rotating head that
makes cleaning corners, under cabinets and along base boards as simple as pie is recommeded.

Professional cleaning products recommended by your flooring retailer can be used to remove
tough stains and spills without dulling the finish of your wood floor. Makers of “Pre-finished”
floors recommend their own specific products for routine maintenance. Check with your retailer
for details.

Do and Don’ts
Don’t wax a wood floor with a urethane finish

Do use cleaners that won’t leave a film or residue

Don’t use ammonia cleaners or oil soaps on a wood floor — they’ll dull the finish and affect
your ability to recoat later.

Do use a professional hardwood floor cleaner to remove occasional scuffs and heel marks (just
spray some cleaner on a cloth and rub the stained area lightly)

Don’t wet mop or use excessive water to clean your floor (wood naturally expands when it’s wet
and can cause your floor to crack or splinter).  For information on steam cleaning hardwood
floors, see our blog post on Floor Talk.

Do clean sticky spots with a damp towel or sponge

Do minimize water exposure and clean spills immediately

Go Deep

If and when your hardwood floor begins to look like it belongs beneath the feet of gold miners in
an old western saloon, it’s time to consider screening and recoating.

Screening is the process used to abrade or grind down your floor’s polyurethane finish. Next,
fresh coats of urethane are applied. The result is a rejuvenated floor that looks as good as the day
it was installed!

If the damage to your hardwood floor is severe, then you may require sanding and refinishing.
This process involves sanding your floor down to the bare wood and refinishing it. Only go to
this effort if screening and recoating doesn’t solve your problem. Replacement boards may be
available so you don’t have to refinish the entire area. Be sure to go pro whenever you have work
done on your hardwood floors!

Protect Your Investment

All hardwood floors fade or change shades over time. Like our own skin, wood’s exposure to
sunlight may greatly increase this process and cause permanent damage.

Window treatments are recommended to shade your floors from the sun’s harsh rays. We also
recommend rotating area rugs and furniture regularly, allowing wood floors to age evenly from
UV exposure.

To avoid permanent marks and scratches, it’s a good idea to cover furniture and table legs with
flannel protectors. Be careful when moving heavy objects across your floor to avoid scuffing.
Ladies — your stiletto heels may be fashionable, but what’s not in fashion (or covered by your
warranty) are the dents and scratches they cause to wood floors. Likewise, trim your pet’s nails
regularly and keep any and all other sharp objects away from your floors.

Love your floors and your floors will love you back for a long, long time.