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Cosmetics and The 5 Senses: Perception & Description: The Questions Addressed Today
Cosmetics and The 5 Senses: Perception & Description: The Questions Addressed Today
Cosmetics and The 5 Senses: Perception & Description: The Questions Addressed Today
Agns Giboreau giboreau@lesensolier.com Your contact: Hlne AZOEUF, Sensory Dpt Director h.azoeuf@adriant.com Tel +33 169 534 302
www.adriant.com
Biology
How does the body reply to the cosmetic world?
Language
What kind of words are cosmetic sensory attributes?
Description
How to define attributes for cosmetics' description?
Conclusion
Introduction
Material?
Perfume?
Positive stimulation of one or many senses
Increase the perceived quality of the product and its emotional content
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Facing the high demand of the cosmetic industry to base the marketing mix on sensations It is necessary to know how to control sensory characteristics
Sensory descriptive studies represent the most useful and the most used tool to achieve such a control.
Biology
How does the body reply to the world?
How defining a sense? A "sense" is a faculty by which outside stimuli are perceived. SENSE (broadly acceptable definition )
"a system that consists of a sensory cell type (or group of cell types) that respond to a specific kind of physical energy, and that correspond to a defined region (or group of regions) within the brain where the signals are received and interpreted."
(Source: Wikepedia)
Sensory receptor
Structure that recognizes a stimulus in the internal or external environment of an organism.
Smell & Taste : chemical receptors activated by interacting with the molecule
Sight : Photoreceptors transducing the physical energy of light into electrical signals.
Touch & Hearing : Mechanoreceptors responding to physical stimuli when membranes are physically stretched.
Sight
Certainly the most important sense as being the source of information for most instinctive action The most immediate sense The one that drives all other perceptions Appearance directly linked to symbolic interpretation
And in cosmetics?
Many visual characteristics of both consumption and liking.
PACK and
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Hearing
Also a crucial sense as it is the main channel to oral communication, essential human activity Sound environment : central in human well-being Acoustic stimuli perceived from their source, their function, or a specific causal event
And in cosmetics?
The main issue concerns the PACK: Sound produced while opening and closing But also the hair or skin
Olfaction
The third distal sense Hardly recognized by consumers and implicitly memorised Highly linked to emotion Strongly influences mood and individual judgment
And in cosmetics?
Large role in cosmetics Reinforcement of the liking level of a given product or a given brand In luxury brands or personal care : symbolic impact sometimes as high as a visual property
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Touch
Proximal sense, needing contact.
Tact
Skin
Kinesthesia
Muscles and bones
Thermal captors
Heat transfers
Pain sensations
Trigeminal nerve
And in cosmetics?
Major sense for cosmetics products : Graal softness, packaging handling, skin-hair-body contact, hand perception and so on.
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Taste
Intimate sense In-mouth sensations Taste buds only responds to water soluble compounds, salts, acids sugars, peptides.. BUT : In the consumer mind : also refers to other sensations occurring in-mouth : aroma (through retronasal perception : strawberry, vanilla) & mouthfeel sensations.
And in cosmetics?
Critical for Oral care and lip sticks
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Linguistic ressources
What linguistics resources are available to describe sensations?
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Semantics (meaning)
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Sensory adjectives
Adjectives
A lot specific sensory adjectives
Vision : e.g. dark, small, rough, green.. Somesthesia : e.g. heavy, tough, thick,
smooth, harsh..
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Verbs :
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Encountered in all fields Related to the effect of stimuli on the subject = effect
as well as to the impact of subject actions to produce sensations in an interactive process with the object = usage
Verbal adjectives: e.g. tingling, resistant,
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Semantics
- Object descriptions - Subject feelings
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Training
A. Descriptors generation
Wide range of products representing the products on the market Individual work : description of the perception for each product Debriefing with all the panelists in order to group the generated descriptors.
discriminate non redundant relate to consumer acceptance/rejection relate to instrumental or physical measurements singular precise and reliable consensus on meaning unambiguous reference easy to obtain communicate relate to reality
(Source: Lawless & Heymann, 1998)
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be lexically homogeneous (the definition of an adjective starts with an adjective or a pronoun Avoid circularity as it brings no information (same etymological family) Favor description: analogy, paraphrases, synonyms, antonyms (explicit information, complement of the attribute) Illustrate with reference to products as a complement and specification of the definition (example)
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In the cup
Fluid
At pick up
Threading
That needs strength to remove fingers Which leaves a heavy residual film
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Sensory profile
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Crme A Crme B
fluide
ferme
filant
facile taler
frais
aqueux
gras
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Conclusion
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Conclusion
The 5 senses
All 5 senses are involved in cosmetic industries. The importance of each sense depends on the product type, with a large impact of usage conditions.
The methods
The sensory know-how coming from Food Sciences and statistics has been successfully transferred to cosmetic areas. Psycho-linguistics know-how allowed fine tuning of descriptor lists and definitions. Current methods show good performances.
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www.adriant.com
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