EAT ME ISSUE 6 43 EAT ME ISSUE 6 42

My slomach rumbes as l slahd h

lhe ehdess mmgraloh queue al
Bahgkok's 8uvarhahum arporl.
Bahgkok s a cly l've beeh lo beore, bul
lhs lme l's serous: l've beeh cookhg
Tha ood proessohay or lhe asl 18
mohlhs. Lucky l'm ary emacaled
rom e h a proessoha klcheh.
8larlhg huhgry s lhe ohy way l' have
a ghlhg chahce o ealhg eveh ha lhe
dshes l have oh lhe cuhary lck sl h
my head, lheh lhere's lhe lhhgs l've
hever lred lasled, smel or eveh heard
o beoreahd lheh lhere's lhe bahaha
pahcakes ahd slcks o pork salay you
wak pasl wheh you've aready ealeh.
Ah hour aler ahd l'm gellhg o lhe
bus. ll's lhe sme lhal hls you rsl,
Bahgkok's uhque scehl, a heady mx o
red garc, slhky drahs ahd overrpe
rul. l'm gad l hash'l chahged.
l'm oh Khao 8ah Road, lhe 'arahg'
(oregher) hol spol, ahd l've gol mxed
eehgs aboul lhs pace. ll's cerlahy
hol very Tha, bul l s good uh ahd
probaby parl o lhe essehla Bahgkok
experehce, so a coupe o hghls h a
gueslhouse rouhd here w slarl me o.
There's a gagge o decehl
gueslhouses oh 8o Rambulr, behhd
lhe Wal (lempe) al lhe Easlerh ehd o
lhe mah slrp. For my mohey l's lhe
besl pace lo head you wahl lo be h
oh lhe acloh bul hol hear Lady Caga
24/7. Fus rghl oulsde lhere s a
cusler o slreel slas dohg backpacker
avorles (red rce, rul shakes, pad
lha elc) beller ahd cheaper lhah oh
hearby Khao 8ah.
l'm meelhg a rehd who's
backpackhg hs way rouhd lhe regoh
ahd we head oul lo a hosy slreel rohl
bar. Aler severa beers ahd a game o
'spol lhe worsl lalloo' we head o lo
ook or ood. A coupe o greasy sprhg
ros remhds me lhal we heed lo wak
al easl a slreel or lwo away rom Khao
8ah beore orderhg dhher. We hd
a goodookhg sla ahd order, ary
appropraley, 'pad kee mao' whch
lrahsales as druhk mahs slrry. A
arge pale o wde hoodes sooh arrves,
wlh egg, greehs, seaood, hoy bas ahd
ols o ches. Nol a bad slarl. l pck
up a bahaha pahcake oh lhe way back
lo my gueslhouse.
SOI RAMBUTRI
BEHIND WAT CHANA SONGKHRAM
l breakasl oh slreel sla rul, mues
ahd yoghurl lheh go or a Tha
massage. For lhree qud l ees ke
expolaloh, bul lhe hce Tha ady
behdhg ahd presshg me s a smes
so my cohscehce relreals. 8he hshes
hol wlh a happy ehdhg, bul a bow
o chrysahlhemum lea. The pahu
momehls were worlh l; l'm wakhg
o dowh lhe slreel ah hch laer.
A TYPICAL THAI
FOOD STALL
MONDAY
TUESDAY
l arrve md alerhooh. l drag lhe backpack
lo lhe arporl shulle bus ahd buy a lckel
lo lhe ohsoobvous backpacker ghello
arouhd Khao 8ah Road. Twehly mhules
lo wal ahd my rsl moulhu o Tha ood
heeds lo happeh sooh. The ood h lhe
lermha s rubbsh, bul l have a vague
memory o a workers cahleeh rom my
asl lrp. l hd l oh lhe grouhd oor. ll
seems ke everyohe's here rom pols
lo ceahhg sla. 8ome hger |abbhg,
headbobbhg ahd brokeh Tha resul h
a peashg pale o rce curry, ahd slr
ry lopped o wlh a crspy egg. You gel
a ew bemused ooks rom your eow
dhers bul l's worlh l, lhe ood s good,
ahd super cheap hcudhg a cah o ce
lea lhe b came lo 50pl My happylo
bebackhere eves go up aholher holch.
P
H
O
T
O
G
R
A
P
H
Y
: D
A
V
ID
Q
U
IN
E
, P
A
O
L
O
B
O
T
T
IG
L
IE
R
O
F
O
R
E
A
T
M
E
M
A
G
A
Z
IN
E
MBK SHOPPING
CENTRE
Wheh l's md morhhg ahd roaslhg
hol lhe besl escape s lo vsl a shopphg
ma. Mosl o lhem a cehlra, h lhe
regoh o lhe 8am 8kylrah slop. l gel
lhere by ohgla boal oh lhe sma
cehlra caha helwork. l grh as we bomb
aohg uhder ow brdges.
MBK s probaby lhe cly's mosl
popuar shopphg cehlre. Ohce hsde
l's buslhg ahd charmhgy ramshacke.
You cah buy amosl ahylhhg here, h
sx derehl coors. Aler exporhg a
coupe o oors l head or lhe ood
ha. A khd o gahl cahleeh served by
lwehly pus ood slas. l go or 'khao
mah ga', uber lehder poached chckeh
served over rce whch has beeh cooked
h chckeh brolh, you gel a bow o sad
brolh ahd a dpphg sauce loo. ll's a
very popuar slreel sla dsh |usl ook
or a slahoder havhg a go al a boed
chckeh wlh a meal cever.
Back h lhe Khao 8ah area lhal
evehhg, l head oul or my evehhg mea
al Chole Chlr, a amy ruh reslaurahl
lhal gels ols o good press. Ther
amous mee krob s a musl: a decousy
super crspy hoode saad, sweel bul aso
soured wlh lhe zesl ahd |uce o lhe Tha
clrus 'som saa'. Bahaha ower saad,
crab omeel ahd roasl duck red curry
were aso oh lhe mehu lhal evehhg.
CHOTE CHITR
146 TH PHRAENG PHUTON,
BANGLAMPHU
MBK CENTER FOOD HALL 5F
81 SOI RUAMRUDEE 2, WIRELESS RD.,
LUMPINI, PATHUMWAN WANG MAI
PATHUM WAN
WWW.MBK-CENTER.CO.TH

Two days oh lhe Khao 8ah Road s pehly.
l check oul ahd grab a lax Easl lo Hl
8ukumvl, a greal lle Hosle oh lhe
olher sde o cehlra Bahgkok. ll's a ceah
rehdy pace, wlh a ovey roo lerrace,
super asl w ahd bollomess coee.
My pah s lo have ah escapelhe
smog pchc h a surprshgy greeh
ahd reaxhg Lumphh park. 8ourchg
a pchc h Bahgkok s aughaby
easy; lakeaway s a cohcepl lhe Thas
are dowh wlh. Ahylhhg you cah
eal lhey cah bag ahd rubberbahd,
amazhgy eveh hol drhks. There's a
lle reslaurahl rghl hexl lo lhe park
amous or ls red chckeh wlh crspy
garc. Aohg wlh my chckeh l go or
a greeh papaya saad wlh saled duck
egg ahd some deep red dred bee,
WEDNESDAY
ll's a pubc hoday so Khohg Lal
Mayom Foalhg Markel s opeh
(hormay |usl weekehds). Foalhg
markels are bascay sma cahas
where peope buy ahd se oh lhy
boals. Mahy are pahuy loursly bul l
had beeh lod lhs was ohe o lhe ew
exceplohs. Ah hexpehsve 40 mhule
lax rde ahd l'm al lhe cahas.
The besl way lo experehce lhhgs
s lo hre a rehdy oca lo padde you
arouhd or a coupe o hours. 8ma
boals are everywhere, sehg ahylhhg
rom chdreh's loys lo whoe sacks
o ve |abberhg ducks. There's ols
o ood loo. l slarl wlh some crspy
hbbes ahd salay slcks resh rom a
passhg ady's boal comeBB. Theh
we're crushg sowy dowh quel sde
cahas wlh rul lrees overhead ahd
vage e gohg oh a arouhd. l buy
a speca lype o 'gal' cocohul rom a
guy h a ruslc shack. He experly spls
l ahd sprhkes wlh sugar. ll's uhke
Tha blohg you ke. Oh ahd slcky
rce loo, o course. A sghly messy bul
ullery psmackhg easl, ahd sllhg
uhder a lree, away rom lhe lrac,
l's perecl.
Back h 8ukhumvl l pck up a bealed
desserl al lhe coecloh o slreel slas
oh 8o 38. A sla sehg sweel lhhgs
has a seecloh o oro cahded lhhgs
hcudhg varous beahs, pam seeds,
laro ahd my avorle: rogsspawhke
lapoca pears. l pohl lo a rahdom
seecloh. My bow s lheh compeled
wlh crushed ce ahd bera amouhls
o sugar syrup. Each moulhu s
lexlura madhess.
GUESTHOUSE HI-SUKHUMVIT
WWW.HISUKHUMVIT.COM
THAI FRIED CHICKEN
137/1-2 SOI POLO, THANON WITHAYU,
LUMPHINI
SOI 38 STREET STALLS
NORTH END OF SUKUMVIT SOI 38,
OPPOSITE SOI THONGLOR
THURSDAY
P
H
O
T
O
G
R
A
P
H
Y
: K
A
R
N
C
H
A
N
A
K
IT
J
A
R
O
E
N
C
H
A
I F
O
R
E
A
T
M
E
M
A
G
A
Z
IN
E