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Little - Black - Book of Battery Charging
Little - Black - Book of Battery Charging
SPARKING DANGERS
Batteries may produce hydrogen and oxygen gas during charging (see Battery Overcharging). Also, batteries in engine bays and under bonnets may be near fuel vapours. The batteries may be knee-deep in explosive gas mixtures. Only one small spark is needed. Boom, flying shards & acid spray. Chargers are designed to be connected and disconnected in a specific sequence to avoid sparking: Connect battery clips with charger power OFF. Apply charger power, and charge the batteries. Turn the charger power OFF Disconnect batteries. See, no sparks! Nice and safe!
BATTERY CAPACITY
Battery capacity is measured in AMP-HOURS (AH). For example, a 70AH battery will deliver one amp for seventy hours, or seventy amps for an hour, or 35 amps for 2 hours. in theory. In practice, a batterys exact amp-hour capacity will depend on the current drain, temperature and battery age. Battery manufacturers make this information freely available, if you ask them. A batterys COLD CRANKING AMPS (CCA) is a measure of its ability to deliver brief bursts of current to starter motors, and is not related to the batterys overall storage capacity.
BATTERY TYPES
WET LEAD-ACID BATTERIES These are general-purpose batteries, and will accept high charge and discharge rates. They need maintainance (ie. check the electrolyte level regularly, and specific gravity when you think of it). SEALED LEAD-ACID (SLA) BATTERIES These require less maintainance than wet types, but they prefer longer charging times and dont like heavy loads (due to their higher internal electrical resistance). DEEP-CYCLE LEAD-ACID BATTERIES These are better suited to survive repeated deep depletion and recharging than wet or SLA types, but need boost charging. They need a similar degree of maintainance to wet types. CALCIUM BATTERIES These batteries are very good at cranking engine-starter motors. They will deliver high peak currents (Cold cranking amps) due to their low impedance. They require very specific charging routines. HAWKER GENESIS BATTERIES: These have good cold-cranking ability due to their low impedance, despite being a form of SLA battery. They are also good in traction applications. They require very specific charging routines, with relatively high charging currents.
24
18
12 c
-6
10m
20m
40m
50m
60m
Although the AVERAGE is only 10 amps, the RMS current is 15.3 amps and the peaks reach nearly 30 amps.
The current waveform is equivalent to 10 amps of pure DC, with 11.5 amps of AC (not sinusoidal) superimposed on top. Despite the large amount of AC, the charging current never actually reverses; it simply pulses between zero and thirty amps. The total RMS current (15.3A) consists the root-mean-square sum of 10 amps DC, with 11.5 amps of superimposed AC:
BATTERY BOILING
IS THE BATTERY REALLY BOILING? There are two forms of activity which can be described as boiling in a battery ELECTROLYSIS and THERMAL BOILING. ELECTROLYSIS, or electrolytic bubbling, is caused by overcharging, leading to bubbling of hydrogen and oxygen. THERMAL BOILING is caused by allowing battery temperatures to become high enough to boil the acid mixture.
Electrolytic bubbling is accompanied by a mild acid smell. The battery may be warm, but not too hot to touch. A brief period of electrolytic bubbling in wet-cell batteries is not harmful, and signifies that the battery is fully charged. The bubbling may even help in avoiding stratification, by mixing denser and lighter layers of electrolyte which may form in stationary batteries. Thermal boiling is accompanied by an extremely strong acid smell. Some surfaces of the battery will be too hot to touch. The battery case may distort, or even melt, due to high temperatures. WHAT CAUSES OVERCHARGING AND ELECTROLYTIC BUBBLING? Gross overcharging, and prolonged bubbling, can occur for a number of reasons all of them avoidable! Basic chargers ($29.95 from Woolworths): These generally have a low charge rate (2.5A); there are few ill effects if overcharging (and resulting mild outgassing) continues for only a few hours. Small batteries (eg motorcycle batteries) may be at risk of dehydration. Float or Constant Voltage chargers (eg Woods Neptune chargers): It is difficult to force these chargers to overcharge. They will overcharge batteries if: a cell within the battery is shorted (Working cells must share the charger voltage) the charger voltage is set too high (more than 13.8V for a 12V battery) Manual chargers (eg Woods Dialomatic chargers): The charge rate and battery condition are in the users hands. Dont leave batteries unattended. Disconnect the charger soon after bubbling is noticed.. Smart or Automatic chargers (eg Woods Automatic types): Boost charge is terminated when the current taken by the battery tapers to a low value. Overcharge can occur if the charger stays in Boost mode, because the current has not tapered off. This can be caused by: A shorted cell in the battery (the charger keeps force-feeding the battery to bring its voltage up to the Boost level) A load on the battery during charging (even when the battery accepts low currents, the charger supplies and senses the loads current) The charger is too small for the batteries (eg: a 15 amp charger for 200AH batteries; the charge current takes too long to taper to a low value, so the charger stays in Boost too long) The batteries are too large for the charger (See above!)
WHAT CAUSES THERMAL BOILING? Thermal boiling occurs when the charger current to the battery heats the batterys internal resistances above boiling point. This may be due to high internal battery resistance, or to excessive charging currents. Battery heating is proportional to its internal resistance. If its resistance triples, so does the heating effect. Battery heating is proportional to the SQUARE of the charging current. If the charging current triples, the heating effect increases NINE TIMES. NOTE: The heating effect from unfiltered charger current is about 2.3 times more than for filtered charger current. Always use filtered chargers for SLA batteries! Thermal boiling may occur because : Bad battery condition (high internal battery resistance in one cell or several!) The charger is too large for the battery (eg: a 60 amp charger on a 40AH battery) Batteries need filtered charger to reduce superimposed AC (eg gell-cells or SLAs).
WOODS AUTOMATIC WOODS AUTOMATIC WOODS AUTOMATIC with Calcium software WOODS FILTERED AUTOMATIC WOODS NEPTUNE WOODS NEPTUNE
If you have two or three battery systems, and the budget for only one charger (ATTENTION ALL BOAT OWNERS!) If youre charging wet batteries which may have heavy loading during charge:
QUICK PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: DIALOMATIC chargers are unfiltered. They have manual control of charge current. They will charge any battery voltage, from single cells up to the chargers nameplate. A good workshop charger. NEPTUNE chargers are a Float or Constant Voltage charger (unfiltered) with three diode-isolated and individually regulated outputs. Choose this one for boats with multiple battery banks. AUTOMATIC chargers are Boost-Float chargers (unfiltered). They pamper your batteries. A must for deep-cycle batteries. Turn them on, walk away and leave them to it. FILTERED AUTOMATIC chargers: Just like the vanilla Automatics, but the filtered output has very low AC ripple. Choose these for gel-cells and Sealed Lead-Acid batteries, and for top-quality audio installations. CHARGER CAPACITY: This is EASY! No rocket science is required 1/ Figure out your batterys amp-hour capacity. Note: Batteries in parallel capacity adds! Eg: Two 12V/200AH in parallel = 12V / 400AH Batteries in series capacity unchanged! Eg: Two 12V/200AH in series = 24V / 200AH 2/ How many hours will you allow for recharging? Note: We suggest more than 2 hours, and less than 10 hours. 3/ Charger capacity equals battery amp-hours divided by recharge time: And remember to add the GST! (the charger must return about 10% extra to the battery) eg: for 200AH to recharge in 6 hours, you need: 33 amps (plus 3 amps GST) 36 amps. A 30amp or 60 amp AUTOMATIC charger would be a good choice so far 4/ Add any load during charging: eg: 200AH battery, 6-hour recharge PLUS 15 amps of fridge consumption: Total
5/ Choose the nearest WOODS charger! Since you need 51 amps, a 60 amp AUTOMATIC charger would be a good choice. Recharge time would be less than five hours. A 30 amp NEPTUNE might suffice, but recharge time would exceed 13 hours.
FINALLY: We hope that you find battery charging to be an incredibly BORING activity. We hope you never experience sparks, explosions, smoke, boiling, acid smells and sprays, or dud batteries. Charge on, regardless!