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(JUI

pI' fash iOil

and ,cal mer des igll8

rc res t ored. Wai,s d ines, non (:£1 u:II$~, grew uf rhe skin was formed ',hrough [he
011

SJ11;Jlcl", and skirts kt:pl cxpanding. i'bc swelling eonreur

nUtSI

consecutive Iilyering (If peuicoais underneuh. and their bulk women's ac:rivid~~s.lluwt:vcr,

have proved a severe limi.arion

,I 11~1I~ve:!is rhe ran ;l.l11C .Ig , ' , . . d ,,". -orn in" [{okwfltfi-k!IIi," the offiCial . h I 1 ~l lc wa" kI1O"'W!!ali rhe We.Slerrute arnre worn ' . • I" [apun, c e JII.IO~· Y . ',' . 'I' k dunn rhe M "LJ' Rc:.l:ora{lon (11I67-191.2), i '.1 fu .' d as the (dUel' orWcsterl1l~t1f)n. III O. yo g , . 'I' 111"",,, w h I~ 1 lldl0110 a~ , .' .' .' \. ' .isred Cli' [WO st:paralc pieces, a bod'·ice and a skul. and ' 'I~" :r d, 1 \ ,,1 t resses . frt,· [he mid-n mcreenr I cemury cousis a " "d I . 'Is increased. Dresses alII1\: to he a, ()rI\C( at , .. -drew (0 a close dIe desire for decorations 311 ~.C(al . , , • II f ,nmr} _ A Ir ,\I,. wearer's natural bodyllllew;i~ near Y ,I. irh vuri I cOInnhcated oruamcnrs. s a resu , " • , "I lulu wrr vunous anc r: .', .', '"d .. th . ,l'playeJ some of the wearers , d - Th 1 esccpcion to tnis rule, a one-piece ress at I~. . hlli~\\,Ij,lc tt) erect. e gn Y -, bbed _ "1" ., Dress." as i[ wa: namedllll honor ,."".;:1 'In [he '''lrly lIl7o>, The dress was <III eo a fIllCCS,~ '. lUll ~1101'(;' ernci ..., ' ," . cl d (' -' 2 l who la~cl' bel.;,ily!eQueen nfEngl:m ' III 'IIII\:~SSAlexan ra 11144 ]9 ,5., " . _.I' ,.for vQIU.I'IIimHLS ,chignolls.Ht',a<lwc;:ar, . Ih f I h ' (cnwry rtm~tcu a pr("I.NEI!I;e .. I h1llSl)I!C!$ tow:tre I e turn ,G . ( " j di alii ars widl:' rhin brim, so ,15 10 r,ly\nd em" ' . -meru in (he <Ul1e~e"l1dlGCTltucj', evo ve 11J[0 Sill 1", ,, '. j Im'~~l.1requrrcmc . •. ',' '11 l' became especially ptllpuku for rhis reason. borate h~irsr"les [oques With virrua y 110 snm, II
,11111\
11'

,I . ," A c.; ndl)" AI+(r/lOIJrl on I}I! Jt{lJl OJ, . It·m'ly m tne pmll.liIl!; , , " J~" '. h" "a_I uLlitTlli$ paint. , f Ci' , ) I niClin<J 3wttkend scene among I Cg:t~lt:[, P " 111116, Ale Imll[IJIC 0 . \la!I'\0 ue F ··to·' The I I dr' 1 n roo lownl II) the lower c. r th I hi h fashhm sI"yle (If the bustle rau e unte y 1 (I: l •.
~1, •

ca.

,"

since physical exertion was considered

all
10

lInladylikc in high society ar [he rime,

raeavy dothi.ng was viewed lcs.. as a re.~fi·krivcdement than s

increased width, skirts were also lengdiened ~gain e.~ry.Skins in the IS'iOS WC'J'echaracterized

indicator of :Ufluencc, In addition ro

10

swe4.:p dl'; 000[, thereby ('lllphasi1.i~lg ,I woman's modaccentuate [h~ cone shape. I cak fW rlJ War Twas reli::tred lI! as .,' b ' the end the Iliucreem.h century and rhc OUI lr, () 0' • I II\' poflod et\"\."t"il . \ d 'h . fullivdjllts~ broy"ht about by pe~lple I expecthi 1111//( E!Joquc," wheo hrilliaTlI lk-eadC;;ljce III eng e 1 wit ~ a ~o_Y1 1 . fh'~r n(Wlire.: [Q women's lashion , • I" '" ' The uallsimmal ;llmusp lere ,,[ougl( a In.;a, . ~lIlIn5 tor r I.'· new u;r.llury. . . "'E ' 1.1 h' lIT figl'l1Cd hv ,tf\lClural U!~d.cr" .,' . ch "f am fnl1ett:,~mh-et:'lnllJ >lit!. leta c or. II 0 ' ,. I IllS pcnod,aw:I dra111al!<.: ,all!;\: r . I' II f, .1 ~ I 't.I'lf Marccll'l'OllS' ., ,I,' vhidll ursllcd ,he ",xpl't:.,SLOI" 0 ( e ema,r~ '0, Y I c;: , • I\'trIIllclltS m IwC!luelh-cel\lIl r) SLY. \, I,~, p"_ ,Vl"h' ,P.~5nli1e s.. hstamial Iran~ition in .h('; SlrLJ~;tllre of . .) "ll'tUr~{, :llld-!.mdsoc'Y· descrihed 10 Rrmtmbmm.e: oJ J I/'g. (. .. .

b), flollnces layered hod7.Qllrru!y

sleeves were begin!!ing to disapp~~r. Pllfl}' shoulders gave way 10 litlicr' wrist areas .. Ha!S also shrank ro SI11:lIl, moderate bonners or cap'Jre shapes, which <Iemurely hid d1e me"" The paimcr Je~!Ug;gol

The

or

AtlgLlslc-rlornirtiqlle !!inclccmh Tht: etld ~ferred or

all)'
10

~lIgres ,"ccnra[eiy dC(licted

$J.W J

rill:5t:

fashion ncntls amI

Cb:Ulgt,S inl

Ih.1i

fSI

h:.lf of [he'

<Xliltllry.

or dw r8)os

drn£tic change where skirr5 were wllc.erm.:d. Thanh m d,e irlVcmion of m:w In dIe ~~40," [he' term "crinoline"
OUI

d<llhitlg. nlareri~ls, tilt! "mge cril'lolill!t!" elr hotlpcd petticoat appeared. percicoars made of' crin Frellci1 for "horsehair") 1&'o~. rhe
fe'fm

inter, ol"ei:i with liard lill ("Iillen"). After rhe:

C31m!:[0 mean ~ pcttiwal ",ieh a cag\' frame cOI\SI.ructed

or srcel or whalcbnm:

hoops,

wide skirr 'Ibar i'l1c111d'('dsuch a cage, With che com in!; nf crinoline, skins rook on {'xrraof{linary

width, Th: d(:vdoprn"nt of sted win;. major ad\'anl'($ in Iho: re>;ri;1c incl!,lsrry, and cl'e pranic:tI u~c of
~cwillg IU:1chil1e1;:l1l meanl th:ucrin(l!im.:~ were enlarged even hmher, Th.;: cOlllinuing,impmvelllcDlof loom~ and dy.:s nl~de possible;: a wide IIMie[yand 'luamiry or Dla.Lt!rilll ror ~kins. Tile Large demand 101'
WaS

rabric.., du.rillg d.e !tmc of ,(i!lolin~ amrilHled into d,c next pcl'iod as well; [J'e bu"tk-sl-y1c skin
much, reduced in ginh. bm rell.uiml J.g)"cal d~'<Ilofmattria,i
ttl I

rl)r irs {[crnelldolJ5 ornam~JI[~ri(lT1 orribhon~

women's iruler g;..rn1':n'I" . ,',~I ,_L S 'h ,,-I 'i1hmn:fle and ,he lallored SUI{for .. .' l" from II'IS Iperlw were Ulle., -:; ap'" ~, _ .. Imporl:u!1 de" cloplllcnrs erncrgll '" ,'_ ., I all W:list hy fOWl!llg • cI 'Ih ! .. illyolvcx\ a dr('Ss that d.nph~,med an elrcooe pm.. , , W(lInen, T!.c S-shape SI oue t~ 'U I . . lanics cnnc()C[ed \'ari(jll~ eors"l~ to d' '.' ,b 'wand protl'lullllg re;tf. lIu;ovear COil], ' . l'lrc~. Im,";.r -pW)CGtlllg red. ,), ., d r- , f' l'l 'n resembled ti,,, Sit:lUI)li$, Otg-dnle . _' " _ 'h' reI [hi·s style. Th,' S-sh~pe "g"ure 0 WOI ". .,' uc"hrcV(;l [he rlJ1)' W:1l>I5 Sf_lUg [ f . ~k 11 " Iii (I' the bell-sl1(1.ll(;J sktn WIth U'HLn ,l '\' al fA,' Nuuve~II.l" In jll]l"lJClli:ar, L.He umlng leI itll'll'IS th.'1l[ w(;Ie 1"1" It C'. ); 0 It , I co II fd' .'" -'rm; suchas _, ,- ftc (10 (eo b An NOllV,ffi_lIartl~IS. III L1C Be. 0 ecorauv" a .' , r!.'st~nhlcd th,,;-I1Qr.d mOld c). 11 a_ P Y. 'I" r 'or An Nnlwcau. dcsigl1 is c1e:l!rly . I b ,.:ill J'ewdrv Ihe iDIIOVa"~)J1 and oilrstan, mgqu<I Ity ,lcc~s.s(mCSa'l<; a ou:. '.' ~,,'idell!. , ,'\" ore '1« , _. .• 1 d;i Irc;ady wum [;11 d""I." (anl/tZ'llIl~lwirh elements 1>01'I Prior l"O the nll~e[e~nrh CC:TJIlIl'}" wom,en 13,' 'I ' I' ,t'POI'[ (lud ·cr.vd be'", II [0 l_, k . r Tk fad uf sUlrs ~ISc Ol',mg elf $ . , '" tow·d from men'~ dothlng flJl horse ac rll mg. 'f It. . _. II ' j (he Ilt:ginnili"- of clle , .' ,uhe latter h,]lf QfLhc Cfll[ll'!'. Hn,dly. betw~1l I he: end. tI t e mDCle;:nr ;)'111,. 'f, ~. .lIch on 1.. . ," " 'c. "d e ( r ,'eneral QCG'l~lQllS,\'1um.ll~ " ' , ,.". I to \Ii 'ar tailored SIIl[Slor .1 \\1 e mng ), 1>Iwennerh cenemy. WO.llll:!l ~Ia],l<;~ c ','1 h:' .. ' (0- blollSc) , '1 d'" f I' ,,[,['nle consisted of [.\110 piel.~, a ja.:kcr and, a ski rt, worn Wit l a ~ !nW,1I5t r 1(11on.: SllltS 0 [Ie ' ,.
, ,'!'

d flollll.ee~.
'ffle h'llI.:h dod]ing industry, and in particul.ar Ihe: silk l,'Xli!!::maJ'ket ofLyolls, [t~eivcd the full b~lleIII sUPllQmd (he
II;XIil~einduwy as

fil of {his increased demand For fabric:, Napoleoll

~{r'l[egy, and (h.· Frenall bourgeoisie

I)ari: of his poliriml

wc!conwd rhe policy. FanlUt~~ eoUlud('r~ like Charles Fredcril'k refinc.:i silk rf'rolll LY'IlIlS, Th~$e devdc,'mcr of ma[erials lor I'Jrisiall fu,hio!!,

Worth dcsig;ncd
opl1lellts

(tl'<.:5.,'L:S

using re.;;ilnk;Jly ad\'anc<::tI ~!ld anistiCllly

Ilelped Lyun" regain It! repul:uion a.~ the dimihurioll

underneath ponrilyed

the jacket. Because of- this pl'efen;;ncC' for suits, Ihe bl()llS~ began to be recognized fashion, and the trend was accelerated Charles (he tendency

as an importGirls," as body, Similar-

y~ldn. He opened Ilis maison in 1857 in Paris, and introduced rhe rmcdo;e of preserlling "I'hi, own designs for each season, Moreover, •.,<'I·llodof [he preseruation

a new colleciion rhe

ant element ofwomens

hy

die.appearance

of lhe; "Gibson

by purring them on Iive models, he radically changed

\V:orch, the modern

by rhc American

illustrator
10

Dana Gibson (1867-1944), ro simpllfyand 1~!~lowthe naruralline of rhe fermk

1')00_

of the

clothes, Through

fashion sy:;tem in which multiple

In the case of dresses, contrary ly, hats were enlarged these remained popular

lit nl1le may purchase

one couturier's

creative work was successfully established,

gigantic gigal sleeves m~<.k a fleeling comeback in the 1890.1, ~U[ dl~ trend Faded away around and decorated with outrageously {~'(tra"aga;l~ ornaments century
H.Kh

as sturi-(:d bird." and

until the begl nning of [he twentieth

Cluthing foe Sports and Resorts

jl)' rhe latter half of rhe ninereenrh centu ry, rhe lfJnUl1011 standard
tCJ

of living for certain rransportation,

sections of 50ci<:"1}' was

The Development of Undergarments By I.he lauer half

doching rhei r garments gQwn, afternoon of •.he nineteenth centl11'Y,industrial rnodernivarion improved the average lifesiyk:, and

_II improved that people had rnore oppnrrun iry

1ft

enjoy leisure acrivirics. Travel

ofpublic

to resorts to csc;apl' from

her

cold weather became possible with the advancement

and rapidly !;Tt:w in pOptltill: principal elemenes srill

IMily ..A love cfsportsactivirics,

too, spread to the gelle1<l~ public. In rllis period,

was in abundaflC€ ..A strict social etiuucrrc 1 seven or cighr tlmoo:;a day
[0

arose reg~rditi1i artirc, and women ~,~

had

TO

ch~rl"<: ~

present in men's dmhiTlg today, such as jackets and three-piece

I ti!S such as travel and SpllHs.Womell's

suits, appeared as informal dorhing

riding,

for activcon-

meet the dictares o( snci<:ty. The following

dress names f(_'r

clothing fOf' SpOI'rR such as horseback

different
[0

Imllling,

and [ennis W:1S

W<LI

example are indicative

nf the occasions for which women were ohliged 1<-' change their ourtir: mOI'fling dress (for [he theater}, hall gown, runner dress, horne

IIlllIl:whm practical bur not significantly ~idered a medicinally hding

~~Ij

their [Own clothing.

Even dlOugh sea ba[ning

tea gown, visiting dress evening

practice at the rime, women were meant mostly just to frolrc at the edge of the dresses were meant consisting
[0

gown (before hed), and! (imlly, nigl,l, gown.

Nil rnerous new kinds
0

rather than go swim ming in II-" water, Their bathing More practical swimming celltUl'j' drew
to ,I close,

double for spans and for

r ulldergamH:ms
appeared,

were created to fill our these new d rcsses. 111 add irion ro [heand ~II fp!1ak undergarments wok on decorative qualities. bustles, and Corsets, all in new models wirh various

1"',I(;_I\ excursions,
Ilhl1l1t

outfits, swimsuits skirt lengths

of topS and [['0 use!', ,

finally

came

chemise, drawers and peuicoars

in the

I870S,

Various undergarments supported (he rapid changes If. silhouette. Crinolines.

essential to the sculpted sil hOI)C:ITe of the nineteench novel dC\,I_sesand invcnrious, Dramaric advances
ceHl:ury,

As the nineteenth
IL I

began to climb due to the popularity tartans, practical

of more

were introduced

ive "POtts like golf and skiing. Knirted sports sweaters wen: ineroduced into hunting wear lor women. Scottish patterns. became fashionable as resort clorhe

and a men's jacket called a "Norto

many of which were patenicd.

Iflj~([acker' was adapted

Itflrl

use and unique

in colors

in seed malluf.lctming made possible this new expanded selection of crinolines ami hU5Ib, Steel wires and springs beg"] to make an appl'JlanCl: in undergarme-us, in addition to the
usual clorh, horsehair, whalebone, bamboo, and rattan supports, made corsets extremely imporraru undergarment' cffecrive "ilhouem::.mJ_kers, until the beginning ofrhc The invention ofsteel eyelets in 1829

afrcr they were worn by Queen Victoria,

as fllTJ.nional

Furthermore,

II <lll"el'-Sh'ij_l<.:d

"bloomers" finally became accepkd

cyding dod,,:. for women in the 1880s, campaigns ~()r women's right,,_

1'1I'Nf. adv'()c<ltedi_il the mid-ninereenrh

century by rhe feminist Amelia J~nks Bloomer, from whom rhcy took whh newly beglHl

They continued
twentieth

ro be considered

by women the,; rnosr

11"..11' name, [he urriva] of bloomers coincided

"er1l!H}".

jUI)orusmand Parisian Mode The Beginning of [he Fashion System

Wit h the opening The textile industry in spinning accomplished machinery, astonishing improverncnrs for certain sections ofsociery of aniline, the first synthetic the bourgeoisie,
18)1,

of japan

[0

inrernarional

trade in ril5+ European kimono

interest illJapan grew rapidly, and influences in fashion gown, and dresses made of
to European

in the nine-

"[uponism" emerged as a [rend in the early r88os. lasting until around 191:0- japonisrn "Pllt'iUed iii various ways. First, the japanese

rcenrh century. The Iirsr half,,[

and weaving (It-amaric change machines,

(he cenrury wirnessed

the mcchanizarion

of prill.:i,,!; and improvements

im~lf as w

worn as ~n exotic at-horne

III 1)\56. the invention

to Ill(: color scheme

or clothing,

dye, brought a

kimono fabrics were utilized in the making ofWbt~TT1 dresses. Fine examples olbustlc-srylc kvso(./.t> (visi[lng kimono)
material survive. japanese

The hlw:" vibrant mauves and deep reds rhar aniline

rTlutil-i> were also adapted and applied

of rhe twentieth century,

rexof'

p[odm:ed were so fre,sh that they were qlJ.ickly embraced

g>1[l1lentcon.llnluiOll n.nd· irnmediarely in such
111 en

hy

AddiLillflally, sewi iig

pcrform'lrlce v,f"ready-madc.:"· clot hT"

,i1es.
in

1n textiles produced

at the time in Lyons, I~-)r "litipie,}ll'"'le\<: e

p'lHern.l such as ""1-11,.1 tnnr-if-'s, .111'1,,11 thecusrom Renoir (1);82.,

mode practical by Amc;ri~~1nham: Mcrrir Singer in

,~howcd remarkable The notion

.inlrnals. and even 11Imily CT(OSt> can be found .. At [he beginning

w~aring a kimono llarnburger II mono-shaped as art at-home at-horne Kunsthalie,

caught on in the fashion industry. "iron menr _ In America, merhodx known

Dr

gown can be seen in Mildame Hcrio: by Pierre-Augusre

cloth.ing arose n arurally

producing ready-made

H-,nnburgJ. E\'mruaJ~\-' the garmem evolved into a more thorough Iy Wes[ernized, gOWt1~ The word "kimono" cline to he used in a broader sense in the W'esr" enoornrobes. Ulrirnarcly, in the twentieth century, the silhouerte and flat construcrion
011

i~lg had improved

Frunre,
~IZ.eS.

r',pidl}, during the Civil ,«rat to meet the increased dod-ling,

dern:l11J for military uniforms.

the firsl mass-produced

as "('(mjecriotl," was cheap, but came in imprecise ready-made

"r i he kimono
in simple a"d functional
starr during Wnrth,

l,wsiflg'l variety ofloungillg

would exert a great inlluence

rh tee-dimensional

\'{!':~tcr!l clothing

and the world of fash-

III conrrasr to an indusrry

couture market

women's clothing, a high-end hauie

hlmlf caUlur~

il1l1,

also got

off [0 ,I good

[hi~ period, established

and turned out to he e,;qually pm'pnous, the basis of as it exisrs in todav', . ,

All English wllturier,

Clurb Fr,dcrick

Miki. Iwagami,

L"ctun:r

ar Sugino fashion

Coneg"
47

,,~.~
.:..!~~

~, (;00'1",1 !1Q,..
.

:!pdoll,

~,ar:~Jt,.,ij.I:tJ~:¢Jr..!'lluil.:.111br~

'iNip.l" ~"+'llf~.J:.l..,. , ~

!t#M~ilhjpdl

.tlf;'

}'1mf"-lJ"-. l d!l1l'&If6~~

M",m't .G~

<a kfi"

rlli<~l.l[ful, o

,..,HI,

mililmU:!;~
" I

L,h

J~diii:(- . -~~J!e!i4~
1:

JIIIII

t.Jd.J~Uj!,aI ""I' '."I~

""'11,i'1~ I!1!Id

Wl'~ h~Q'il i'i'llI_r~lli'll; F'tiJ,.<J1!lllrp.lll~''I'''!''I'-':cm~~ od,.nIlIl·li

!huu.

101 ACfl4
(Jili;.
IOVI!1Il!'

l;r..crr-Jrdit, At;rXjlj ..1'.1'>,:-..-.1

~ I'mi"
l""....,lree d.JxM "F .. I,~E.rn...m!.."1:Ii pdu;t ""d. I f Qr·"lf,I.... bri!iid.;,poJ 1""1' t pttli.: I wlul'L:OI!I!~'~nd."iJ.,'l' .nod ITlrlJ.. f"l!Jl ~t1 ,",,!\I "".lD! -".m:.'I1 boill .. ~JIiI,..,..... I tI'Ii 1'.' f,u .40""'., iI'.!'"~,;l '!"B4'.-ff-:-I

"'ill!

1I.~liI
W~Ij'

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f~IlJ,l,j,11f1 '_li11f"'<!';': ""lII"l
u rt:. .

w,,~"&11..n11....r..""'dJ~).uo:'! 1,!lI~"~
MrIYs,o,;4,i,.J],...~ dm t ~r :f"7'l! ~~rl!AB
"r-.~I1J

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II ~1I!I!!1II11m_

'Ii 'llltli'l, tllK.m.r ..... !;~DliI1 .".P1~1''"''-~'

II w.linl.l,,. 'i"ll.lf"lIf~~' I , 1~~I,Jm.~~

I
jl~ulI..,nllllj ,. Jf' I 116' ,'8

'III

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our...

r!-!11'!: jj. r rl.'1i11l'll rpo:r'I It r;~IJdil'l

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Index ofNa,mes

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;It''IL

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Ei

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