CANDLE MAKING Candle Making Basics - Part 1 Newcomers to candle making may be having a hard time finding useful

information about it. Years ago there were some good books on the subject. There are very few candle-making books available now, and most of these are geared towards using granulated wax in boiling bags or beeswax sheets ( which are fine for those with just a casual interest). The real fun in candle making is the experimentation. Fortunately, the Web has taken up the slack, and there are many candle makers willing to share their knowledge. The Rules Rule Number one - There are no Rules, with the exception of safety rules. Candle making is about experimentation. It is Chemistry, Art, Imagination, and Magic rolled into one. There are many factors that affect the finished candle - wick, wax, temperature, additives, type of mold, dye, scents, etc... Always consider candle recipes a starting point for your own experimentation. Record Keeping One thing often overlooked by candle makers of all experience levels is the importance of keeping records. It would be a shame to develop your "ideal candle", and not be able to reproduce your results. Keeping a notebook handy in your candle making area is very helpful. Some things to consider for your records are: 1. Type and quantity of wax. 2. Type and quantity of additives such as stearine, vybar, luster crystals, etc... 3. Type and quantity of dye. 4. Type and quantity of scent. 5. Type and size of wick. 6. Type and quantity of mold. 7. Pouring temperature. Tool List 1. Double boiler - may be a commercial double boiler, or use a coffee can in an old pot. A seamless pot is highly recommended though. 2. Thermometer - a candle or candy thermometer that clips to the pot works fine. Do not even consider making candles without a thermometer. 3. Pot holders or pliers - depending on whether you are using a pot or a can. 4. Molds 5. Mold release - silicone spray is easiest to use, but peanut oil works well also. 6. Cutter for wicks. 7. Wooden spoon - for stirring wax. 8. Dowel for poking relief holes in molded candles. 9. Baking pan at least eight inches square - numerous uses, but mainly for leveling the bottom of molded candles. Wax There are many waxes available for candle making. I recommend that beginners start with a general purpose paraffin wax, which melts in the range of 135 - 145 degrees. As you progress into candle making, you will probably want to start experimenting with other types of waxes such as microcrystaline, beeswax, bayberry, and other melting points of paraffin. For now get to know the properties of one readily available wax. Additives The variety of candle additives commonly available has grown tremendously in the past 2 decades. Here are descriptions of the most common additives:

Stearine - Also called stearic acid. This has been the standard paraffin additive for a very long time. Used to make wax harder, release from mold easier, and increase opacity of the wax. Use from five to thirty percent ( three to five tablespoons per pound of paraffin). This is the easiest additive to find, and I recommend it for beginners. Vybar - Available in low melting point (Vybar #260) and high melting point (Vybar #103). More economical to use than stearine. Improves color and scent retention. Difficult to find, and doesn't always release from mold easily. Use one to five percent. Plastics - There are a variety of plastic additives (mostly polyethylenes) that will improve gloss, opacity, translucence, strength, and hardness. Marketed under a variety of names such as luster crystals, opaque crystals, translucent crystals, etc... These are readily attainable, but are difficult to use due to their high melting point. Must be melted separately, then added to melted wax. General usage is from one half to two percent depending on the product. Not recommended for beginners. Wick There are more than 35 different wicks on the market, although only about six of these are commonly available to retail candle supply purchasers. Wicking can be broken down into three categories - Flat, Square, and Wire Core. Flat and square are used for molded and dipped candles, wire core for floating, votive, and container candles. The starting point for wick selection is to match the wick to the mold diameter. For a small mold use a small wick, etc... If a test burns of the finished candle shows a minimal wax pool the wick is too large for your wax formula. If your wax pool is drowning the wick by causing it to go out or have a small flame, go to a larger wick. The wick size is the easiest way to adjust how your candles burn, and it is important to keep in mind that changing your wax formula may require changes in wicking as well. If you don't have another size wick handy, adjusting your wax hardness with more or less additives may help it burn correctly. Dye There are 2 main ways to color candles, dye and pigments. Most candle making is done with dye. Pigments are very concentrated colors primarily used for over dipping and carved candles. As a general rule, never use pigments to color the core of a candle - the particles of pigment will clog the wick. Although it is common to see candle making instructions using crayons for color, this can also clog the wick. For the best results always use a dye specifically made for coloring candles. If a really deep color is needed consider an over dip in that color - too high a color concentration in the core of the candle may cause burning problems. Wax colors will be lighter than they appear in the melting pot. To get an idea of the finished color place a drop of wax on a piece of white paper. An even better test is to put a half inch of wax in a paper cup and place it in the freezer; this will give you the exact finished color in a hurry. Keep in mind that wax additives affect the final color. Scent Candle scent is marketed in 2 forms - liquid scent oil, and scent blocks. Although the liquid scent is a higher outlay in cost, I feel it works far better than scent blocks. As a general guideline follow the manufacturers directions. Higher scent concentrations can usually be used, however too much scent can ruin a candle. Use caution with acrylic molds since high percentages of scent may ruin the mold. Summary This lesson detailed the components that make up a good candle. I would like to stress the point that every component of a candle is affected by every other component. Changing any component may require adjusting other components. Join me next week for Basics - Part 2 where I will discuss molds, and take you step by step through making a basic molded candle. Candle Making Basics - Part 2

This week I'll be discussing molds and giving step by step instructions for a basic molded candle. In case you missed it you may want to read last week's feature Candle Making Basics - Part 1. As always, safety is our primary concern and you should know these safety rules before proceeding. Molds There are a huge variety of commercial molds on the market, as well as an almost infinite number of everyday items that make good molds. The instructions that follow will be for using a standard commercial mold, in other words a mold that makes the candle upside down. My personal recommendation is to get a one piece metal mold as these tend to be the easiest and most durable to use. Here is a basic rundown of mold types: 8. Metal Molds - Available in a broad variety of shapes, these are simple to use and relatively durable. 9. Acrylic Molds - Available in a variety of geometric shapes and sizes. They are easy to use, but are easily scratched. Use caution as too much scent may damage these. 10. Two Piece Plastic Molds - Available in a large assortment of novelty shapes. These are more difficult to use even though most beginners start with them. 11. Rubber Molds - These are available in latex and vulcanized rubber. Both produce seamless candles, with the latex requiring a little more effort to use. Vulcanized molds tend to be expensive. 12. Top Up Molds - these are molds that are used the opposite of most candle molds - with the top of the mold being the top of the finished candle. Many floating candle and votive molds are used this way. These are easy to recognize by their lack of a wick hole. 13. Flat Molds - Used to make wax appliques and hanging ornaments. These generally do not produce good candles, but do make nice decorations to embellish your candles with. When selecting your first mold, try to keep it simple. Read and familiarize yourself with the mold manufacturers instructions. The step by step instructions below are general guidelines for using a metal mold and you should modify them for your own situation. Making The Candle This is the big moment we've been building up to. All your materials are at hand, so lets jump right in. Step 1 Put enough wax in your melting pot to fill your mold. If you don't have a scale to use, a good estimate may be made by dividing the slab into even sections. For example divide an 11 pound slab into 11 equal sections to get one pound of wax. Add stearine at the rate of two - three tablespoons per pound of wax. Start heating in a double boiler. Step 2 While your wax is heating, apply your mold release (gently - a little goes a long way) then wick the mold. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for this. Prepare a water bath by submerging the empty mold in water and adding water until the level is about one half inch below the mold top. Take care not to get any water in your mold or wax - it will ruin your candle. It is easiest to add a mold weight at this time, typically a piece of lead wrapped around the base of the mold. A more difficult alternative is placing a heavy weight atop the filled mold once it is in the water bath - you must hold it down until the weight is in place though. Step 3 When wax reaches the pouring temperature (refer to manufacturer's instructions for optimum pouring temperature), shut the heat and add dye (optional). Stir until well dissolved. If desired add scent and stir well immediately before pouring. A word of caution, excessive dye may cause the candle to burn poorly. Excessive scent may ruin some plastic molds and / or ruin the finished candle. Set aside remaining wax for step 5. Step 4 Pour the wax into the mold slowly but smoothly. On taller molds it sometimes helps to tilt the mold

to prevent air bubbles from excessive agitation. Always wear heavy work gloves when handling molds filled with hot wax - especially metal molds. Wetting the gloves will give even more protection if needed. Gently tap the sides of the mold, and allow 45 seconds for the air bubbles to rise. Place the mold in the water bath. Step 5 Periodically punch one or more holes alongside the wick using a dowel of other long narrow implement. As the wax cools it shrinks, and punching holes prevents it from shrinking away from the wick causing air pockets. the larger the candle the more times you will need to repeat this. Fill the void left by shrinkage taking care not to pour above the original level of the wax. On very large candles, it may be necessary to repeat this step more than once. Step 6 Allow the candle to cure fully before attempting to remove from the mold. The larger the candle the longer it takes. If the candle does not easily slide out of the mold, place it in a refrigerator for five to ten minutes. If you still have difficulty removing it, place in the freezer for no more than five minutes. If all else fails heat the mold with hot water until the candle will come out (this usually ruins the candle). Never pry or scrape the wax out of the mold. Step7 If refrigeration was used to unmold the candle allow it to return to room temperature before proceeding. The final step is to level the base. Place your baking pan atop a pot of boiling water. Holding the candle by the wick, allow it to touch the pan until the base is flat and level. Step 8 Enjoy your candle. Watch how it burns, and on your next one adjust your recipe to make it burn better if necessary. I would also like to remind you to keep an accurate record of your formula. I hope this has been useful to you. Next week I'll discuss making Layered Candles - a beautiful variation of the standard molded candle, that are only slightly more difficult to make. Previous Features KIM'S CANDLE MAKING PAGE

MATERIALS Here are a few items you'll need to get started Coffee can Sauce pan that you can devote to candle making Molds Wicks A long metal spoon to stir the melted wax 3" scotch tape 1" scotch tape Scissors Wax

Newspaper Optional items Color chips Translucent powders Fragrance Hardeners Protective sprays

PREPARATION Molds There are a variety of molds you can buy at hobby stores or arts and crafts stores. Many are plastic with a tab for the wick to fit into and an opening on top to pour the wax. The candles are very easy to remove from this type of mold. Home made molds Small milk containers boxes that bar soap comes in hostess cup cake containers toilet paper rolls If you are using a store bought mold follow the manufacturers instructions. Usually, all you have to do is insert the wick and snap the two pieces of mold together. If you are making a homemade mold tape a piece of cotton cord (it doesn't have to be dipped in the wax first as mentioned below, but it is recommended) to the bottom of your container. You can support the wick by laying a pencil over the top of the mold and tying the wick to the pencil. If the mold has a bottom that isn't totally sealed (like a soap box), then use the 4" tape to tape up the bottom on outside of the box. If you use a toilet paper roll, use the 4" tape and seal up the bottom. Seal it real tight or it will leak. Wicks You can purchase wicks in an arts and craft store or make your own by using cotton twine like the kind you would tie a roast with. Just cut off the appropriate length, giving yourself a little extra, and when you melt your wax, dip the twine in and lie it flat on newspaper to dry. You will want to get a variety of thicknesses of wick. If you do a small votive candle you will want a thinner piece and if you do a large candle you'll want to use thicker wick. Wax You can purchase sheets of parafin wax at arts and crafts stores which is probably the best buy. I've found that using an oyster knife works best to break up the wax sheets. Start at the corner and do small pieces at a time.

GETTING STARTED You first want to make a double boiler to melt the wax in. Don't microwave the wax because it can splatter and be very dangerous and also fade the color in the wax. Put about an inch of water in the bottom of your sauce pan and heat on low. Put your coffee can in the sauce pan and add the wax pieces. Meanwhile, get some newspaper to put your prepared molds on (leaks and spills happen often). Once the wax is melted, you can pour it directly into the molds being careful to keep the wick straight. You can allow it to cool right on the newspaper or semi-cool on the newspaper for about 20 minutes and then transfer to the refrigerator. Don't put in the freezer though, or the candles will crack. Once the candles are cool to the touch you can take them out of their mold. If you are using store bought mold all you have to usually do is pull the two pieces apart and the candle will come right out. If you use homemade molds, peel the tape off first and then tear the molds away from the candle. They usually come out pretty easy. The only thing left to do is trim the wick on the top of the candle (and the bottom if there is some extra sticking out).

VARIATIONS Colorings You can buy color chips at arts and crafts stores to add to the wax after it has melted. You have to experiment on how much to add, but a little goes a long ways, so start out with a little bit. I usually take the wax off the burner after it was melted before adding the coloring. If the wax gets too hot the color will fade. Fragrance You can buy fragrance at arts and crafts stores too. You can use the same kind used in making soap. I use the same procedure as with the colorings. After the wax has melted, remove the pan from the burner and then add the fragrance. Again, a little goes a long way. Hardeners Candle Making101 Author: Eileen O'dea Published on: September 9, 1998 Every one likes candles. They can set a mood, light a room, calm you on a stressful day. There are so many things those molded pieces of wax can do. You know how much you can pay for just one votive candle in the stores. With a few supplies, and a little creativity, You can make your own for a portion of that price. And

youll have the satisfaction of knowing that you did it your self. Of course, you are going to need some basic supplies. You will need kitchen paraffin, a package of wicking, some wick weights, a few crayons (your choice of color), a large tin can or a double boiler, Scented oils (optional), and some molds. All of these things can be found at Wal-Mart. Before we start, lets talk safety. You are going to be working with HOT wax. Always keep that in mind. Making candles is so easy its very easy to forget about the heat. You should keep a bowel of ice water near by when working with the hot wax. I cant tell you how many candles Ive made, and how many times Ive burned my self. About the molds You can buy conventional candle molds. If you want to save money and get creative, your choices are endless. I have successfully used shot glasses for votives, tin cans (with no impressed ribbing) for pillars, and little tart tins for the floating type. I have even used a hole in the dirt for a primitive yet trendy candle affect. You do have to remember that the top of your mold must be larger or the same size. If not, you won't be able to remove your candle once its cooled. A few hints To release your candle from its mold, place it in the fridge for about a half hour. Then gently pull on the wick, and your candle should pop right out. The larger the candle, the longer you will have to leave it in the fridge. Always make sure you have left yourself enough wick. If its too short, you will have a hard time lighting it. Its always easier to snip a little extra off. Its impossible to add more wick once your candle is made. Keep a few toothpicks and bamboo squires with your supplies. You are going to have to make sure no air has settled around your wick. This is done after pouring the hot wax. If you skip this job, you could end up with a deep well around the wick. The Project Now lets make some basic candles. Put your can into a sauce pan. Add chopped paraffin into the can, then add water to about half way up the can. Put the pan on the stove and turn heat on medium. Yes, high would work faster, but wax has a very low melting point. On high you run the risk of overheating the wax. That can ignite the wax. Make sure you do not leave the pot unattended. This is not the time to answer the phone or the door. Watch your wax as it melts. Add a few chunks of a crayon. When it has completely melted, remove from the heat. Pull a piece of wick through the wick weight. Make it a bit longer than your mold. Dip the weighted wick into the paraffin. Immediately place the wick into the mold. Using a pot holder, lift the can out of the water. Gently pour wax into your mold, almost to the top. Put can on a heat-safe surface. Use a toothpick to gently move the wax around the wick. This should prevent air from getting stuck on the wick. Let candle set for 10 minutes. Add more wax to top off your candle. Put it in the fridge for at least 30 minutes to cool. When completely cooled, your candle should be easy to remove from the mold. Store your homemade candles in a cool dry place. If you are giving your candles as gifts, tightly wrap with plastic wrap, and tape closed. Store the same as above. Make sure not to store or leave candles near any heat source or sunny window. You dont want melted candles, at least not before you have burned them. These instructions are for basic candles. As you get confident in making your own candles, you will want to make other types. When your ready to move on to more elaborate candles, you will need more tools such as a candle thermometer, fancy molds, scented oils and more. I will cover them in a future article. If you have made votives, here are some holder ideas. You can purchase some nice

ones. But if youre looking to cut some corners and save some money, try a mirror for a reflective affect, tiny tart tins for the country look, old colored ash trays, from when you used to smoke. You know the style you like. Use your imagination. Just make sure your holder is tempered (if it is glass) or heat-resistant. Well, I hope these instructions and hints have made you want to get going making your own candles. Just remember, safety first. You cant enjoy your candles in the emergency room. For a brief history of candles Candle making for Spells and Sabbats Why not make your own candles for use in candle magick (or Sabbats)? You can pick the exact colors and scents you want; make the size you need, even add the intent for your spell/Sabbat from the very start: any spell item made with your own hands and for that sole function is stronger and more powerful. Candles are not hard to make: it's very like cooking - only no-one will ever complain about their taste! The following method is for molded candles. You can also make dipped candles, but they are harder to do. First the materials you will need: Wax This comes in various forms: Beeswax is fairly expensive, but does make excellent canalised. Paraffin wax is much cheaper and freely available. It does need the addition of Stearin though, a hard wax that makes the candles smoother and harder. About 10% stearin to paraffin is ideal. You can also recycle old candles: Just remove the wicks and cut them into chunks. It is best to also add a little new wax to the old wax, add about a quarter new to old. Wicking This is a specially woven cotton thread. It is usually sold in a roll in various sizes. Chose the same size as the candle diameter (i.e. 1.5 inch wick for a 1.5 inch candle) Molds These come in glass or plastic. The glass ones are more expensive and are of course fragile. Plastic molds are perfectly fine, and come in a wider variety of sizes and shapes. Pans/double boilers You will need to heat the containers of wax in a pan of water. I don't bother with a double boiler (they're too expensive) Instead I use food cans!: remove the lid, wash them thoroughly and then bend the top into a sort of spout - this will help in pouring the wax. The advantage of cans is that you can heat several in the same pan of water, with a different colour in each can! You can also buy special colors and scents for making candles. The blocks aren't too expensive, and will go a long way. You will also need some sticks or needles and some bluetack (or plastecine). The sticks are to hold the wick in the centre of the mold. The plastecine is to hold the other end in the hole at the bottom of the mold, and seal the hole itself (or all the wax will leak out!)

Finally you need a large jar or pan, as tall and wide as you mold. This is to hold water, and acts as a water bath to cool the candles down faster. Method: Collect all your materials together first! 14. Put the pan of water on to heat (make sure it's big enough to hold all the cans you need) 15. Prepare the wax: You can check how much you need by filling the mold with the cold wax (it's best if you use the granulated sort) I find about 2-3 molds full will give you enough wax. (remember it shrinks as it cools) 16. Fill your prepare cans with the wax and put into the pan of boiling water. Keep the pan topped up with water and do not let it dry out: if you do the wax may overheat and you have a potential pan fire on your hands! 17. Allow the wax to melt slowly. Once it is liquid you can add the stearin (if you're using paraffin wax). 18. If you are adding color you can do this now. Shave bits off the block and add slowly: remember the color will be a little paler in the can than in the finished candle. Try dropping some of the colored wax onto a cool, flat surface to get an idea of the finished color. 19. Now prepare your molds: You can coat the inside with a thin coat of lubricant, this will make it easier to get the candle out of the mold later. I drizzle a little oil (cooking oil is OK) into the mold, and then wipe it around with a paper hankie just like greasing a cake tin, only with less oil. 20. Cut a length of wicking the length of the mold plus several inches. Dip the end into the wax and allow to cool: this will act as a needle to make it easier to thread the wick into hole in the "sharp end" of the mold. Thread through about 2 inches, and secure it with the bluetack/plastecine, plugging the hole as you do so. 21. Secure the other end of the wick to a stick (I use old chopsticks cut to length) so that the wick hangs straight in the center of the mold. 22. If you are using glass molds, it can be a good idea to warm the mold a little before adding the wax, to reduce the risk of it cracking. 23. Put the mold on a flat surface. It might be useful to have some one help you with the pouring. 24. Slowly pour the melted wax into the mold. Be careful not to get too many bubbles in the wax, and don't slop too much wax down the sides of the mold - it will be harder to get out later. 25. Let the candle stand a few minutes, then give the side a few gentle taps to encourage any air bubbles to rise out of the wax. 26. Put the candle into the water bath. The water should come to a bout 1 inch from the top of the mold. weigh it down to stop it floating. 27. Now leave the candle to cool for 1 hour. 28. After an hour the wax will have cooled in the mold. As wax cools it contracts, so there will be a "well" in the center of your candle. Carefully break the skin of the cooling wax (you can use a needle for this). 29. Re-heat some more wax, and carefully fill the well through the hole you just made. 30. Replace the candle into the water bath, and leave for another hour. 31. Your candle should now be cool enough to come out of the mold. The wax should be solid to the touch, but still be a little warm. Remove the bluetak/plastecine from the "sharp" end of the wick. Now pull carefully on the

other end (you can use the stick to give you purchase) There will be a vacuum, so you will have to pull fairly hard, but steadily. If the candle doesn't want to come out, try putting it back into the water bath - Some water will seep down the sides of the mold, and can lubricate it more. If the candle is really stubborn you can risk heating the mold up a little in a warm oven for a few minutes. 32. Once the candle is out of the mold, you will need to finish it. This is mostly a matter of cutting off the wick from the bottom of the candle, and trimming the main wick. You can also trim the wax at the bottom of the candle to make it flat it depends if it's going to go straight into a holder or not! 33. Finally, you can polish the candle to remove any "burs". An old pair of silk stockings (!) work brilliantly, or you could use a hankie if you're too shy! It is best to allow your candle to 'rest" for 24 hours before using it. If you are going to use it for a spell, why not wrap it in a silk scarf of a corresponding color and lave it on you altar overnight? Now charge, carve, anoint and burn! Good luck and happy spell working