T4JViMiipeg Free Press, Saturday. January 21.

1984

Travel
By Roger Cohen

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ISLAND OF CAPRERA, Italy (Reuter) More than a century after his death, the home of Giuseppe Garibaldi, the head of Italy's fight for unification, stands almost unchanged. In the bedroom of his house on the Island of Caprera, just off the northern coast of Sardinia, the faded calendar still bears the date of the soldier-hero's death, June 2, 1882, and his iron bed is at the window facing toward Corsica. The single-storey white house, converted into a museum, stands almost alone on the island, an enduring symbol of the periodic exile and isolation of a man who was a dreamer and soldier rather than a political pragmatist. "He had the bed placed at the window one day before he died. He still

dreamed of uniting Corsica to Italy, and wanted to look out towards it and his birthplace, Nice," said Eleonora Impagliazzo, a curator of the museum. Garibaldi lived here for the last 28 years of his life, except for a series of armed expeditions in pursuit of his vision of a united and socialist Italy, free of foreign domination. The greatest expedition was the celebrated conquest of Sicily in 1859, when, in the name of King V i t t o r i o Emanuele of Piedmont, Garibaldi led a band of 1,000 men to victory over the forces of the Bourbon kingdom of Naples. The victory significantly advanced the process of unification under the Piedmont kings, which culminated in 1861. Garibaldi's military glory is reflected in the magnificant rifles and swords

at hero's home

which adorn the house and splendid stern portraits of him riding on horseback or dressed in elaborate naval uniform. But his small and lonely home overlooking the sea chiefly evokes the simplicity of a man who was seldom at one with the establishment.

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Photographs of his seven children four by his first marriage and three by his third adorn the white-walled rooms, where he lived with Francesca Armosino, the local peasant girl who became his third wife. There are three wheelchairs and four crutches he used after injury in battle, a set of binoculars presented by the city of London, and a wardrobe of colorful ponchos collected during his exile in South America between 1835 and 1847.

Famed pirates haunt coast

By Bob Puhala
Chicago Sun-Times FERNANDINA BEACH, Fla. - Tidal marshes, thick stands of palmetto and miles of unspoiled white sand beaches line the strip of highway edging the Atlantic Ocean. Visions of pirates, slaves and all sorts of swashbuckling thugs fill my mind as I remember that infamous ne'er-do-wells like Blackbeard and Jean Lafitte made these coastal inlets their homes. We are exploring the Buccaneer Trail (Florida A1A) north from Jacksonville, hopping from one barrier island to another up the state's beautiful northeast coast. Our final destination was to be Fernandina Beach, once called a "festering fleshpot" by President James Monroe and home to the oldest saloon in the state. Our first sight is the historic settlement of Mayport, a 300-year-old fishing village established by early French explorers of the St. Johns River. Today, Mayport is home to a busy commercial fishing fleet, and hosts a large U.S. Navy base that can be toured on weekends. Whether you take the quaint Mayport ferry across the mouth of the river or backtrack along the roads, you'll be back on the trail heading to Fort George Island. Soon, a long, winding road takes you on an eerie ride into the past, deeper into thick oak forests and mysterious swamplands to the Zephaniah Kingsley Plantation. Nearly two miles into this drive, large sabal palms line the roadway, creating a canopied effect. It's said that Kingsley's wife forced slaves to plant these trees more than 120 years ago. The site is one of the few remnants of the slave plantation system common to territorial Florida. Home of a vast and lucrative slave-trading empire, the plantation covered all 10,000 acres of the island.

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Oldest plantation house

It's also home to the oldest plantation house in the state, a large white two-story home topped by a widow's walk, built in 1791. The walkway at the apex offers a panoramic view of the waterways, swamps and coastal plains that surround the property. The plantation home is furnished with period antiques, some of them handmade by slaves and tradesmen. A 30-minute guided tour costs 50 cents. There are 32 slave cabins (made of tabby a primitive type of concrete made of sand, shells and water) that housed up to 12 families in each. They are arranged in two arcs of 16 cabins each, designed to provide a first line of defence against marauding pirates. Though Kingsley was known as one of the more benevolent slavers (a contradictory phrase indeed), he was shrewd enough to realize that field hands sold for $300 each, while tradesmen drew about $1,500. Most of them were sold to plantations in Georgia and the Carolinas. Continuing north on this trip, as guests of Florida's Division of Commerce and Tourism, we come to Little Talbot Island, a state park with a beautiful and undisturbed four-mile beach. Little Talbot is a magnificent example of an unspoiled barrier island. The state has come to this realization, apparently; it is purchasing Big Talbot Island just a bit further up the road and is turning it into a wildlife refuge. About 30 miles north of Jacksonville is Amelia Island, the last barrier island along the Buccaneer Trail. Named for the rather homely daughter of England's King George I I I , the island has a fascinating history. It's 'the only part of the United States that has had at least eight nations lay claim to it including Mexico. But it was the buccaneers that gave this island, and its only town, Fernandina Beach, its reputation as a lusty devil's den seaport. Even as late as the 1820s, the town's five-block main street is said to have had 27 saloons and nearly 30 brothels. Today, that same street, now called Centre St., is a restored historic district, a 30-block concentration of late 19th century Victoriana. Numerous specialty shops, boutiques and restaurants dot the quaint downtown area. One of the highlights is the Palace Saloon, essentially the same in character and appearance since it opened in 1903. Enter through the swinging doors and it is soothingly cool and dark, even during the hot hours of the day heavy red velvet drapes keep out most of the glare, and a c o m f o r t a b l e breeze is stirred up by paddle fans hanging from its embossed tin ceiling.

Adorned with carvings of nudes

An imposing 12-metre mahogony bar with a brass foot rail to match is adorned with massive, handcarved female nudes. It begs one to belly up to the bar and order from the long list of imported beers. Other Fernandina Beach highlights include a historic tour through Fairbanks Folly. This eclectic Italianate home, at 227 S. 7th St., was built in 1885 by Maj. George Fairbanks for his wife. It was meant to be a surprise, and when his wife laid eyes on it, -she refused to move in, demanding he build another home for her. He did. The Bailey House 1895, at 28 S. 7th St., is a beautiful Victorian bed-and-breakfast inn done in Queen Anne style. Its many gables, turrets, bays and fish-scale decorations escalated the construction price of the home to $10,000 at the turn of the century. A final destination is Fort Clinch State Park, a Civil War fortress overlooking Cumberland Sound and the Atlantic. It's a pentagonal structure, with Frenchstyle brickwork. Crossing the drawbridge (a moat guards the fort's entrance), you're transported back into time. Suddenly the year is 1864, and you're at a Union outpost in the center of Johnny Reb land.

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