Designing Comfort Garment for Children

Clothing is one among the most important three basic needs in every human life. It protects our body from various climates and gives us a good appearance. In this youthful world, children are given more care for the selection of their garments. Today children are largely exposed through various media. They themselves have become the customers in their own rights. They also have their own definite opinions about the clothes they wear. While developing their own styles children reveal their own creative streaks.

Children classification
Generally kids are grouped according to their age.

Infant or babies Babies up to two years come under this classification. Infant's clothing is sized according their age: 3, 6, 12, 18, 24 months. During this age, the head does not correctly stand on their neck. So, garments should be selected with full opening. According to the seasons, the material should be selected, ie, thick or thin. Normally soft materials with lightweight should be selected.

Toddlers Children from the age of two to eight are called as toddlers. From the age of two, the average child loses fat until about the age of eight. This slimming down process is very apparent. Toddlers have very little waist shaping and protruding stomach. These features decrease as the child grows and loses fat.

Children Age groups above seven to twelve are normally said as children. Manufactures decided to accept a 6 cm height interval as a base for coding scheme as this approximates to the average growth per year over this period. It is to be noted that the range of heights for any particular age group is larger than the amount of growth that occurs in any one year. It is better to link other body measurements to height rather than age.

Requirements of children's clothing

The ideal baby clothing design must consider following aspects: 1. Soft, comfortable, easy to put on and take off and comparatively loose 2. Easy access to his/her nappy because it requires frequent changing 3. Non-flammable 4. Lightweight 5. Non-irritating 6. Underclothes should be essentially made of organic fibers 7. Allow quick transmission of sweat from skin to environment 8. It should have a dust & dirt repellent surface finish 9. Design of the cloth should be in adherence to the safety of the children 10. Finishes should ensure hygiene curbing the growth of microbes and bacteria 11. Chemical Finishes on the clothes should be skin friendly and not harmful 12. Clothes should not have pilling and other small protruding fibers

Garment classifications
Children garments are generally classified into many categories. They are as follows: Casuals Garments designed for informal occasions are termed as casuals: They are T-shirts, knitted garments, etc. Knitted fabrics give more freedom of movement than woven fabrics and are ideal for casual wear. During the movement these knitted loops helps in pumping air through close-fitting garments, thus removing body heat during summer. It gives pleasing appearance, loose elastic structure, comfort and softness. Day wear The fabric's selected to wore as daytime wear are cotton, gingham, gabardine and sail doth during summer season. Double knits velveteen and corduroys are selected during winter season. Children's day garment has to be made up with a fabric that will stand for repeated laundering, the seams should be strong and fastenings should be secure. Night wear While selecting the garment it should not possess any harmful ingredient and accessories, as the skin of children is very tender and smooth. The garment selected should have good drape and it should serve the purpose. Party wear Industries focus on manufacturing luxurious garments for children in various styles and prevailing trends. These are also called as special occasion garment. Fabrics like velvet, denim, satin, etc, are used in party wears with different styles. Uniforms The uniform worn by children should be subjected to certain treatments like antibacterial finish, antistatic finish etc, and it should be free from odour.

Sportswear It should have freedom of movements. Knitted garments have higher extensibility in both length and widthwise directions. Hence, knitted materials are mostly selected as sportswear for children. Active sportswear can be classified as summer sportswear and winter sports wear. High fashion wear Fashion in clothing has always been a reflector of change in life style of people. A complete range with the most luxurious look and superior comfort is an absolute must. Greater spectrums of bright, vivid colours and designs have become the key for the purchase of high fashioned wear. They look only for latest fashions and these can be worn during special occasion like parties.

Selection of material for children garments

Fiber
1. Organic cotton: It is a specific name of cotton, which is grown without the use of any pesticide, fertilizer and harmful chemical. 2. Linen: It is more safe fiber than cotton because very less amount of pesticide is used on linen than Cotton: So, linen fiber-based garment, either 100% pure or with blend cotton or other suitable fiber, can be used for clothing after appropriate ecofriendly softening treatment. 3. Wool: Conventional wool is a polluted fiber because; it is subjected to various processes such as scouring, dyeing and finishing treatments using various chemicals. Hence, organic wool is suitable for children clothing. 4. Coir: The coir has the properties of moisture absorption and holding capacity of any amount of moisture until the air is circulated and wicks it away leaving the mattress dry and healthy. 5. Bamboo fiber: Bamboo fiber is a kind of antibiotic fiber. This fiber has good dye ability and drape, soft, easy to weave, deodorant, special elastic resilience, higher wear resistance and high comfort value. It has high air permeability and can absorb moisture instantly. It is biodegradable and environment-friendly fiber. The

bamboo fiber can be blended with cotton and synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, etc. This fiber can be used for underwear, baby towel, bath towels, etc. 6. Viscose fiber: It has a great sense of softness and luxurious feel. Fabrics made from it have stable shape with silky touch. Inherent flame-retorted viscose fiber is also very effective to produce baby clothing. 7. Chitcel fiber: It is a multiplex cellulosic fiber added with natural antimicrobial high polymer chitin. It has merits of both chitin and cellulose fiber. It has a wide application in medical textiles also. This fiber is soft and luxurious with higher dyeing and rate and affinity. The fabric made from this fiber provides soft and smooth feeling, comfortable due to its high moisture and air permeability. The raw materials are formed from natural regenerated resources. The product is biodegradable and can be thoroughly decomposed within three months being buried 5 cm under the ground. 8. Industrial hemp: Rapidly renewable industrial hemp produces three times more fabric per acre than cotton, and it requires little to no pesticides or herbicides. 9. Recycled polyester: Recycled polyester is made from recycled soda bottles, castoff fabrics, and worn-out garments. 10. Soy cashmere/silk: This fabric is made of the soy protein fiber left after processing soybeans into tofu, oil, and milk. Look for non-genetically engineered soy.

Yarn
Ring spun yarn is suitable because, due to its highly migrated structure, it provides better fabric hand than rotor and friction spun yarns. Combed yarns can be used for yarn of children clothing should be less than adult wearing because more loftiness is required in case of baby clothing.

Weaves
In summer, the fabric should be more open for frequent transfer of moisture vapour. Satin and sateen weaves are more popular summer wear. It is smooth, soft, lustrous and

excellent drape, floats, snags easily. In baby blanket, leno, towel and bath towel, felts are used. Twill weaves are also very suitable due to diagonal effect, less dust capturing tendency and more smoothness.

Fabric
While selecting the fabrics choose durable fabrics that will take a lot of war and tear. Firm knits and firmly woven fabrics such as denims, poplins, broadcloths, and corduroys are good choices. Avoid loosely woven and knitted fabrics that may snag or catch. Children prefer soft, absorbent fabrics that do not "Scratch". Polyester cotton blends provide comfort, durability, and easy care.

Patterns
Children's pattern types are based on body measurements. Because children go rapidly, measurements need to be taken often. Babies It is designed for infants who are not yet walking. Patterns for babies are chosen primarily by weight and length. There are two sizes, new born and six-months. Toddlers It is designed for a figure that is taller than a baby but shorter than a child. Toddler pants have diaper allowance. Choose size closest to chest measurement. Toddler patterns often apply to boys and girls. Children It has the same chest and waist, as toddler but is taller with wider shoulders and back. Many patterns suit boys and girls. For children's patterns choose the size most closely matching the chest and back waist length measurements. The chart shows the body measurements for exact pattern measurements and sizes.

Selection based on seasons

Children's garments are selected with respect to season in order to protect their body. During selection, the garment is selected according to two seasons, summer and winter season.

Summer season
Lightweight garments should be preferred on summer season because the lightweight fabric can be able to breathe the body moisture in to the environment easily. Children feel more comfortable on wearing cotton fabric. The garment selected should be loose to wear. Colour also plays vital role. Colour differs according to different climatic condition. During hot season light colours like white, blue, green, purple, etc, should be given importance. Black color should be totally avoided during summer season.

Winter season
To give a warm condition, the garment should be in thick nature. Hence materials like wool, acrylic are mostly preferred. The colours preferred for this season are red, redorange, maroon etc, during this season children easily get affected by cool air. So, knitted garments like sweater come into their existence. Sweaters can be designed as smooth and bulkier, shagged, hairy, etc, which prevents the loss of heat from the body. Sweaters are also named as pullover. Cashmere type of sweater is used for great softness and lightness.

Selection based on liking

Children focus their eyes on the new creations, new styles and new models while selecting their garment. Children wider their selection based on:

Fashion
Fashion reflects the changing life style of garment. Fashion changes accordingly to the new development techniques. Now-a-days fashions are created according to the mindset of children. The garments are designed and styled based on these fashions.

Colour
Children like bright colours: Red, blue and yellow. Brown, warm/cool colours combination, the royal purple is some of the colours that are raising its peak in this youthful world. The colour reflects the mood of the children. The colours used in children's garments should not be sensitive to their skin.

Fit
Fitisasimportantasthefabricused.Snugfittingsleepweardoesnotignite easily and, even if ignited, doesnotburnreadily because there is little oxygen to feed a fire. Thus flame resistant fabric is not an absolute necessity for infants. Further, the Neck openings should be large andeasytomanipulate. The bottom should have easy access to diapers.

Size
Sizesvarybybrand.Manufacturers generally provide a weight and height chart on the label or size may be labeled by age. When buying clothes for a newborn infant, we should consider purchasing sizes in the 3 to 6month range since babies grow quickly.

Accessory works
The value added works in children garment mostly consist of:

Embroidery Patch work Attachment Printing and Painting

Finishes for children wear

A finish is a process given to a fabric to improve its qualities such as appearance, hand, drape and certain other properties such as hygiene and safety.

1. Antistatic finish
Synthetic fabrics are hydrophobic in nature and tend to accumulate static electricity. This static electricity causes problem such as clinging of the garment, attraction of dirt and sparking. These fabrics are given a chemical treatment, which enables the fabric to attract and retain water molecules. This helps to dissipate electric charge from the fabric surface and making the fabric more comfortable to children. Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermasol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester fabrics. Polyether agents have also been found to be useful. Thermasol anti-static agents also have a good soil release action, which is as permanent as the anti-static effect. Antistatic finishes may also be of polyamide type, being curable at moderate temperatures.

2. Antibacterial static finish

This is a chemical treatment, which makes the fabric resistant to bacterial growth. It renders the microbes inactive, which come in contact with it. Some of these finishes also make the fabric mildew resistant and even prevent damage of the fabric by perspiration.

3. Antimicrobial finish
Antimicrobial finishes are applied to the garments like sportswear, leisure wear, T-shirts, socks, wipes etc. Antimicrobial are used to control the growth of algae, bacteria and yeast. This prevents the fabric from rotting, staining, unpleasant odours and other health concerns like physical irritation, allergic sensitization etc. Finishing compounds that are commonly applied are brominated phenols, quaternary ammonium compounds, organosilver and tin compounds, which can be applied as solutions or dispersions.

4. Anti-pilling finish
It alleviates pilling, an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun yarn fabrics, especially when they contain synthetics. Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of a fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross-section, and abrasion resistance. By abrasion, individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface, and the garment catches on a pointed or rough object. Knitting is susceptible to these effects due to the open weave and bulky yarn.

5. Crease-retentive finish
It is also called as permanent press finish, or durable press finish. A resin treatment is given to a fabric, which is then stitched into a garment, eg, a pleated skirt for girls. Heat treatment is applied to the garment to have a permanent pleat. It does not require ironing but may require light pressing.

6. Mildew resistant finish

Cotton/linen and cotton/wool blended fabrics are mostly liable to mildew in humid climates or if left moist in the dark. Cotton and rayon's containing starch are particularly

vulnerable to attack by mildew. If a mildew resistant finish is given, these fabrics resist the growth of mildew or mould. This is mainly given to children's bed spread, towels etc.

7. Moth-resistant finish
Wool is susceptible to attack by moth. If the wool is treated with certain chemicals like fluorine compounds, chlorinated sulphonamides, quaternary phosphonium compounds it is not damaged by moth and carpet beetle. This is given to woollen sweaters and woollen garments of children.

8. Soil release finish

This finish is mainly applied to sports-wear of the children, which helps the garment from getting stained. The finishes that give soil release are:

Polymer containing carboxylic groups. Compounds containing oxy-ethylene or hydroxyl groups. Fluorocarbons containing hydrophilic groups chemically reactive compounds.

This helps the garment from getting stained.

9. Anti-shrink/anti-stretch treatment
Anti-shrinking is a process in which the dimensional instability is avoided. This makes the fabric dimensionally stable. The material used for children's wear should be treated with anti-shrink or anti-stretch treatment.

Benefits of few Children Clothing materials

Organic cotton
1. One of the main benefits of organic cotton clothing is the softness of the fabric. It is super soft against the skin and therefore very comfortable to wear, making it ideal for babies and children. 2. Organic Cotton is a natural fiber and the fabric therefore allows for better air circulation, which helps remove and absorb body moisture, drawing heat away from the skin. Because cotton "breathes" it is the best choice for the kids, keeping them cool in summer and dry in winter. 3. Organic Cotton is non-allergenic, making it the best choice of material for children who suffer from asthma or allergies, or those who have sensitive skin prone to irritation. 4. The fabric is durable, versatile and easy to care for. It can be washed in the washing machine and either hung to dry or put in the tumble dryer. It is the ideal wash-and-wearfabric - perfect for you and for the kids. 5. Organic Cotton is biodegradable and a renewable resource. During processing only 10% or less of the raw weight is lost or deemed unusable. 6. It uses no synthetic fertilizers or pesticides and therefore leaves an even smaller footprint on the planet than ordinary cotton.

New Zealand Merino-Wool

Merino is undoubtedly nature's wonder fiber. It is pure, natural, renewable and biodegradable. It is whiter, stronger and longer than merino from any other country in the world. It is produced in New Zealands rugged and beautiful high country. The main benefit of NZ merino is its ability to create its own comfortable micro-climate around the childs body. Unlike synthetics, merino breathes and manages moisture. It has an unique ability to respond to changes in temperature, keeping the little one comfortable in all climates and conditions. Thus Kids merino wool clothing can be worn all day long, summer or winter, with complete comfort. It also has the ability to absorb and release large amounts of moisture, up to 35% of its own weight, without feeling damp. As it absorbs moisture, the merino fiber releases small but noticeable amount of heat, preventing your child from chilling in cool conditions. Comfort Merino is much finer than other types of wool and it feels light and soft next to the childs skin. The merino fibers are so fine that when pressed against the skin they simply bend, meaning there is no sensation of prickle, only softness. Heat and Moisture Management Merino breathes and it has the ability to actively respond to changes in temperature, keeping your little one warm when the weather is cold and cool and comfortable when the weather is hot. The natural crimp of merino fiber enables it to trap air effectively, thus insulating the childs body from the cold. Fire Safety Merino safeguards childs health through its natural fire resistant properties. It takes an extremely high temperature for merino to ignite. Improved Sleep Patterns Some medical studies have shown that merino improves the sleep patterns of babies and infants resulting in increased weight gain and generally improved levels of contentment. This is largely attributed to its previously noted ability to regulate heat and humidity. .

Non Apparel Based Textile for Children

Non-apparel based textile forms a big market for the children wear. They include items such as diapers, towels, socks, bed sheets and bedspreads.

Diapers
Diaper cloth is a twill dobby or plain-woven water absorbent cotton. Diapers are of two types: Disposal diaper and non-disposal diaper. Diapers are made of gauze, flannelettes in rectangular or fitted type. Gauze allows air to circulate there by keeping the children comfortable. These types of diapers are easy to wash and dry, this implies that these diapers are non-disposable. Flannelette is soft but bulky this could be used during long travels.

Bed spreads
It should also be selected on the basis of season. During cold season the bed sheets should be thicker to give warmth. During summer season it should be thin and have good air permeability and it should have good air circulation capacity. Children's bedspreads mostly in the colour of pink, purple, red etc. Colourful, fun and creative patterns and fabrics for a child's bedspread can spark imagination, enhance play and make naps and bedtime something to look forward to thereby helping growth of the children

Towels
The towels used for children should be capable of absorbing the water, which should have soft and smooth feel. It should be treated with special finishes like antimicrobial finish which avoids the growth of microbes. These finishes must not affect the tender skin of children.

Socks
Socks are made from cotton, linen and wool. Socks are normally used along with uniform and it can also be used during cold climate to protect the body by preventing the direct contact of cool air. It should be surely treated with antibacterial finish. This prevents the garment from the growth of the bacteria.

Conclusion
The selection of suitable cloth to the children is imperative to their enjoyment of health. The cloth should not irritate the delicate skin of the children. When selecting children clothes, there are a few things needed to be aware of in order to keep your children safe and comfortable. So, the construction of the children garment should be simple and comfort. Some functional factors influencing styles, finishing and safety for children wear can be summarized as

1. The colour dyed in the garment should not be sensitive to children skin. It should be eco-friendly 2. Hard materials having sharp edges should not be used in babies garment as it may harm the tender skin 3. Kids wear should not have drawstrings as they have a tendency to wind round the children neck and cause danger 4. Children's wear must have sufficient seam allowances and must offer styles 5. Tight dresses are avoided, as they tend to have larger stomachs 6. Their foundation garment should have correct fit and should be comfortable 7. It should be able to absorb perspiration 8. It should be durable and easy to launder 9. Enough gap or spacing should be given in the neck when considering pullover 10. Preserve the garment in the dry condition, so that it is free from bacteria and odour 11. For infants and babies elasticized garments should be avoided 12. For babies full opening should be preferred 13. Respective finishes should be given to respective garment

References
1. Monika Gupta: A New Look for School Uniforms for the Next Millennium, Evolving Trends in Fashion, the NIFT Millennium Document, 2000. 2. Kate Buller: The Knitter's Bible, Collins and Brown Limited. 3. Kate Buller: Style Your Own Kid's Knits, Collins and Brown Limited. 4. Kathleen Blaxland: Creative Clothes and Accessories for Children, Milner Craft Series - Sally Milner Publishing. 5. www.kidspacestuff.com/blog/2012/09/choosing-kid-friendly-fabrics/ 6. www.just-style.com/analysis/new-textile-finishes-respond-to-eco-friendly-demand_id112481.aspx 7. www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=1741 8. www.indiantextilemagazine.com 9. www.wikipedia.org

MOHIT JHUNJHUNWALA 2009TT10802 ASHISH 2009TT10781