HOT- AIR BALLOONING

Few experiences compare with silently drifting over a herd of grazing elephants in the Masai Mara or enjoying a post-flight champagne breakfast in the heart of the Sossusvlei dunes. Ballooning is a perfect addition to a honeymoon or a memorable way to mark an anniversary or birthday. If you do not have a special occasion to celebrate, we suggest you invent one because this is something no-one should miss. A balloon safari adds a totally different dimension to your game viewing. Hovering silently over the savannah, you can observe the animals whilst they remain completely oblivious to your presence. You can look down on giraffe browsing in the trees below, get an overview of whole herds of herbivores and take in the entire panorama of the landscape. Balloon flights normally take off at sunrise, when the air currents are still cool. You arrive at the launch site before dawn and watch the balloon being inflated. Once airborne, the balloon drifts across the landscape with the prevailing wind. The pilot controls the altitude by adjusting the gas burner to regulate the flow of hot air into the balloon. Flights usually last an hour and are often followed by a champagne breakfast at the landing site. If the wind obliges, your pilot will aim to use the currents to land close to your breakfast table. The basket can hold up to 16 passengers. The nature of the activity means that ballooning is not cheap. A flight costs from 245 depending on location. KENYA A hot-air balloon safari over the rolling plains of the Masai Mara is simply spectacular. Between July and September, you get an overview of the vast herds of wildebeest and other plains game and may spy a cheetah or lion preparing to ambush its prey. ZAMBIA For much of the year, the vast Busanga Plains in Kafue National Park are submerged below seasonal flood waters. In May, the waters subside to reveal a delicate patchwork of green and brown vegetation. A balloon flight is a splendid way to enjoy this varied landscape and its herds of red lechwe, puku, roan and wildebeest. NAMIBIA Dawn flights from Sossusvlei allow you to watch ever-changing colours as the sun rises over the enormous red sand dunes, and to savour this magnificent landscape in peace and serenity. SOUTH AFRICA Complement a safari in the Kruger area with a balloon flight from Hazyview and a birds eye view of the Sabie River Valley. On the Garden Route you may wish to overnight in Oudtshoorn and take a balloon trip over the Klein Karoo and Swartberg mountains.
left Ballooning over Sossusvlei above right Ballooning over Masi Mara opposite Ballooning over Masai Mara

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ISL ANDS
East of the African mainland, the Indian Ocean is scattered with tropical islands and archipelagos. Some of the most idyllic places to stay are found on these wondrous, far-flung islands where, far from the cares of daily life, you can savour being a castaway often from the lap of luxury. Here we offer a few of our favourite islands, some small enough for you to walk round, with just one lodge and often exclusive to guests. For more inspiration, see Beaches and Quirimbas or contact us to discuss your wishes. MADAGASCAR Madagascar is the worlds fourth largest island. Offshore lie a number of islands for a fabulous and unusual island holiday. Nosy Tsarabanjina is the perfect tropical island, with fine white sand, sparkling blue waters, healthy coral, a rich marine life and just one island lodge, CONSTANCE LODGE TSARABANJINA. If you want a private castaway experience, to stroll along deserted beaches and swim or snorkel in the coves of islands still beyond the reach of tourism, ask us about cruising amongst the Radama Islands, southwest of Nosy Be, or in the Mitsio Archipelago, to the northeast its surprisingly affordable. SEYCHELLES Seychelles comprises 115 islands, with some of the worlds finest island lodges. NORTH ISLAND offers barefoot luxury, the peace of mind of everything being included (even diving and half-day fishing charters) and the chance to contribute to a flagship conservation project just by enjoying yourself ! In the Outer Islands, DESROCHES is a private island encircled by 14km of sandy beach and coral reefs abounding with colourful marine life. Each suite or villa has its own bikes for exploring this flat coralline island. If you want a more low-key private island holiday, BIRD ISLAND LODGE has simple, comfortable rooms, soft white sand beaches protected by a barrier reef, superb fishing, marine turtles and Giant land tortoises, as well as the fantastic number of birds for which the island is named. EAST AFRICA Among the islands lying off Africas east coast, THE FUNZI KEYS is an exclusive retreat in the south of Kenya and a lovely place to relax after your safari. In the north, the Lamu Archipelago was largely forgotten by time youll see boats and donkeys instead of cars. Sheltered by sand dunes, at the far end of the 12km long Shela beach, KIZINGO is an intimate beach lodge with strong links to the local village, warm hospitality and very good food. To the northeast of Zanzibar, Pemba Island is largely undeveloped and devoted to raising the cloves for which the spice islands are renowned. On a wild beach of soft white sand on a remote peninsula, FUNDU LAGOON is stylish and simply heavenly. It has a strong relationship with the nearby village, an exemplary dive centre and a hilltop pool with magical views over the lagoon to the rolling hills of Pemba.

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Post World Cup, this modern yet distinctively African city has emerged as a vibrant destination with plenty to offer the traveller.

JOHANNESBURG
opposite Bird Island top Hector Pieterson memorial, Soweto bottom left Jazz musicians bottom right Sandton

The epicentre of the enormously successful 2010 football World Cup, Johannesburg has cast off its former, mainly negative press, and has undergone a renaissance to rival that of any other city in the world with an ever-growing number of museums and galleries, shopping malls and craft markets, bars and restaurants. Once perceived as somewhere to fly in and fly on, Johannesburg is a rewarding stopover for a night or two and increasingly a destination in its own right. The city has a distinctly cosmopolitan African flavour, and is more a celebration of post-apartheid society than Cape Town, which still largely feels like a European city. LILIESLEAF Joburg is also the custodian of the history of apartheid, and especially of the long years of opposition. We highly recommend a visit to the cutting-edge Apartheid Museum, as well as to the exceptional Liliesleaf Farm in the suburb of Rivonia, once the clandestine headquarters of the African National Congress (ANC)s military wing and the site of the 1963 police

raid in which many senior ANC leaders were arrested. The farm has been converted into an interactive museum which tells the story of the struggle for freedom in the Fifties and Sixties. The quantity of material will keep a real enthusiast happy for an entire day; one cannot fail to be impressed by the dedication of those who have brought Liliesleaf back to life, as well as by the fruits of their labour. SOWETO Soweto is the spiritual home of the antiapartheid struggle and a half-day tour of this remarkable township includes the Hector Pietersen Museum (commemorating the 1976 student uprising), the Kliptown Memorial and Regina Mundi Church in Orlando West, an important gathering point during the struggle, followed by lunch in one of Sowetos eateries. For those who wish to experience more of township life, we can offer overnight stays in township B&Bs. CRADLE OF MANKIND If you are interested in prehistory, more than a thousand hominid fossils, spanning over a

million years of human evolution, have been discovered at the Cradle of Humankind at Maropeng, about an hour from Joburg. The award-winning, interactive visitors centre displays some of the original fossil finds and presents the latest thinking about human evolution. SANDTON & ROSEBANK Johannesburgs northern suburbs, Sandton and Rosebank, offer some of the best shopping in Africa and several luxurious hotels. Sandton is centred around a huge shopping mall, whereas Rosebank is more open-air and particularly noted for its craft markets and cafes. Melrose Arch is a recent development of hip cafes, celebrated restaurants and trendy nightspots. Nearby, in the leafy suburb of Melrose, the boutique PEECH HOTEL is a tranquil retreat, providing stylish accommodation with impressive eco-credentials.

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KRUGER
South Africas Kruger National Park contains an enormous area, the size of Wales, bordered by Mozambique in the east and Zimbabwe in the north. It was designated a national park by South African president Paul Kruger in 1898 to limit the cattle ranching that was encroaching on the area. Today, the Park is home to nearly 150 different species of mammal, including all of the Big Five lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo and more than 500 species of bird. The unique feature of the Park is the network of high-quality roads and rest camps, which make it a perfect destination for a self-drive safari. Whereas at game lodges a driver and tracker take you on game drives, here you are in control, choosing your own routes and stopping where you fancy. With no-one to find the game for you, you (and your travelling companions) become the trackers children quickly become remarkably skilled at spotting wildlife.

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Different vegetation zones make for varied game viewing as you drive through the park. Rest camps are well-equipped with shops and restaurants some have pools, an ATM and internet caf and are surprisingly inexpensive. Combined with low park fees, Kruger provides the most affordable high-quality game viewing in Africa. Several private and public game reserves surround the Park. Together, they make up the Greater Kruger Park Conservancy: three million hectares of land where game can freely wander. Sabi Sands and Timbavati are the largest and best-known. These reserves were formed by the consolidation of many privately-owned ranches and reserves and today contain some wonderful private lodges. SABI SANDS The Sabi Sand Wildlife Reserve is a massive area of private land on the west side of Kruger. There is no border fence, so animals roam freely between the park and the reserve. Within the Sabi Sands are famous luxury safari lodges

including SINGITA, LONDOLOZI and MALA MALA. The reserve is exceptionally good for lion and leopard sightings. One advantage of staying in a private reserve is that you can do off-road game viewing, tracking predators through the bush for those elusive, close-up views of hunting cats. The lodges offer dawn and dusk game drives, usually of about three hours duration, plus an optional game walk and visit to a local village. The late afternoon drive quickly becomes a night drive after a bush break for sundowners. Meals are included in the price, as are most alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. At the top end, Singitas EBONY LODGE and BOULDERS LODGE offer stylish accommodation in an exclusive area of the game-rich Sabi Sands. These Relais & Chateaux lodges offer unrivalled hospitality and facilities, including a luxurious spa, fully-equipped gymnasium, well-stocked library, gourmet cuisine and one of South Africas best wine cellars. The suites are spacious and opulent, with vast decks overlooking the Sand River and individual pools. Ebony Lodge has a traditional colonial style; Boulders is contemporary, its

suites constructed around basalt outcrops.

CHITWA CHITWA is a family-owned

and run five-star safari lodge in the unspoiled northeastern Sabi Sands. Set around the largest lake in the reserve a magnet for thirsty animals Chitwa Chitwa provides almost non-stop game viewing. The head chef comes from Singita and meals are marvellous.
VUYATELA, also in the northern Sabi Sands, is an intimate luxury camp of just eight suites, each with a private lounge, deck and plunge pool. You can expect a warm welcome, interesting guides, great game viewing in an exclusive 7000-hectare area, good food and a friendly, informal atmosphere. Vuyatela caters as well for honeymooners as for families.

opposite Chitwa Chitwa Lodge, Sabi Sands below left Vuyatela Lodge, Sabi Sands below right Zebra in Kruger NP bottom Blyde River Canyon

At NOTTENS BUSH CAMP, in the south of the reserve, the emphasis is on the simplicity of life in the bush. It is a small, traditional tented camp, run by the Notten family. Lit by oil lamps there is no electricity the camp successfully recreates the romance of the African bush. Very experienced guides provide first-class game viewing.

ITINERARIES
SELF-DRIVE SAFARI HOLIDAY

To the west of Kruger, the Lowveld provides some of South Africas most spectacular scenery: Blyde River Canyon, Gods Window, Bourkes Luck Potholes and many wonderful escarpments, waterfalls and rock formations. Begin your holiday with two or three days here there are some super places to stay around Hazyview before moving on to a Sabi Sands game lodge for three nights. After that, try your luck at game spotting for a day or two in Kruger Park, before motoring through Swaziland into KwaZulu Natal (see page 64) where you can take your pick from a wide range of activities, including walking in the Drakensberg, visiting the Battlefields, diving, whale watching or simply sunbathing beside the Indian Ocean. From 1895 including car hire.
BUSH AND BEACH FLY-IN

Combine a week in the Kruger area, staying in the Lowveld and in Sabi Sands, with a week on one of Mozambiques tropical islands. A one-hour flight connects Kruger to the Bazaruto Archipelago (see page 6). Prices start from around 3045, staying in four-star lodges, to 4895 or more for five-star accommodation. With regular flights to Kruger Mpumalanga airport, where light aircraft ferry passengers to individual lodges, a Kruger safari can easily be added to a holiday in Cape Town or the Garden Route.

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LEMURS
Lemurs are a varied group of primates endemic to Madagascar. It is thought they colonised the island about 65 million years ago. Since then, lemurs have evolved independently, isolated from the continents, and their adaptations to Madagascars highly seasonal environment and different ecological niches have produced a wonderfully varied group of animals, with nearly 100 species remaining. Lemurs once ranged in size from the worlds smallest primate, the tiny one
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ounce Mme Berthes mouse lemur, to a now extinct 200lb sloth lemur, and were dispersed across the entire island.The arrival of humans around 2000 years ago first fragmented and then cleared many of the forests and led to the extinction of at least 17 species, including all the giant lemurs. All lemurs are threatened and 16% are critically endangered. Wildlife tourism makes a vital contribution to the survival prospects of these unique animals and to the fate of one of the worlds most important biodiversity hotspots.

AFRICA

BERENTY The easiest place to observe lemurs is in the spiny forest habitat of BERENTY PRIVATE RESERVE. Ringtails wander around the restaurant and you can watch dancing Verreauxs sifakas over your early morning coffee. Professor Alison Jolly, who has been studying the Ringtails of Berenty since 1963, claims that only a small proportion of the Ringtail population has become habituated and you will get excellent sightings. PRINET & MANTADIA Prinet, three hours from the capital, protects two groups of habituated Indri, the largest surviving lemur, which has an extraordinarily eerie call. You can almost count on seeing them.The Eastern grey bamboo lemur and Common brown lemur are also regularly encountered. The most comfortable place to stay is the family-run VAKONA FOREST LODGE. Nearby Mantadia is a hilly area of primary rainforest inhabited by up to 14 lemur species including wild Indri, the Black-and-white ruffed and Red-bellied lemurs, and the beautiful Diademed sifaka, which gives birth in June/July. The steep trails can be slippery; but the effort is more than repaid by the wealth of wildlife, the splendour of the forest

and the glimpse of eastern Madagascars rainforest band in its natural state. RANOMAFANA Ranomafana, about nine hours south of the capital, is a magnificent rainforest park containing at least 12 species of lemur. Three of the extant bamboo lemurs are found here, including the Golden bamboo lemur discovered by Dr. Patricia Wright in 1985 and the rare Greater bamboo lemur. These species can coexist because each feeds on a different part of the bamboo. Milne-Edwards sifaka, Black-andwhite ruffed, Red-bellied and Red-fronted brown lemurs are among the other species present, so Ranomafana is outstanding for the diversity of lemurs commonly encountered. You will need to devote at least a day to reach virgin primary rainforest and the richest areas for birds and lemurs. Or we can provide the equipment and personnel for a nights camping . THE NORTHWEST Ankarafantsika National Park, about 115km from the port of Mahajanga, is the best place to see the lemurs of the dry deciduous forest habitat, and a notable birding hotspot. The Coquerels sifaka has become almost indifferent to humans; and Western woolly lemur, Grey mouse lemur and the Milne-Edwards sportive lemur are frequently encountered.

Further north, Anjajavy Reserve offers an effortless opportunity to observe Coquerels sifaka and Common brown lemur by day and sportive and mouse lemurs by night. ANJAJAVY HOTEL provides some of the best accommodation in Madagascar, as well as fascinating excursions, and the opportunity for a delightful beach holiday. THE NORTH Ankarana, 100km south of Antsiranana, has the knock-out combination of fantastic tsingy rock formations, huge caves, pristine forest and a wealth of wildlife. The male Crowned lemur is particularly attractive, with its ginger ruff and crown and black head stripe, and easy to find. Sanfords brown lemur has fine white whiskers. The diurnal Black lemur can be found in Lokobe, on Nosy Be, and on the smaller volcanic island of Nosy Komba. Both have distinctive ear tufts, but only the male is black. TSARA KOMBA is one of our favourite places for an idyllic, interesting beach holiday and for seeing black lemurs. If you are adventurous and want to seek the rarest surviving sifaka, we can organise a trip over rough tracks to Analamera, where the critically endangered Perriers sifaka clings to survival in a fragment of semi-humid forest.

opposite Red-ruffed lemur below left Female crowned lemur below right Common brown lemur bottom left Black & white ruffed lemur bottom right Sportive lemur

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LIONS LEOPARDS
Creative conflict resolution is key to the big cats hopes of survival. In Kenya, Ol Donyo Wuas revolutionary predator compensation scheme has stabilised the lion and leopard populations in the Chyulu foothills and is being extended west to Amboseli. Ask us about initiatives you can support through your big cat safari.

The grace, beauty and formidable hunting ability of Africas big cats make lion and leopard the highlight of many safaris. Farmers and herders perceive them as vermin, to the extent that the cats are now largely confined to conservation areas. Numbers have plummeted in the past 20 years and many conservationists believe that the continued survival of these predators lies in the balance.

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LION Once distributed from Greece to India and across most of the African continent, the lion is now a vulnerable species. Most of Earths remaining lion are found in the protected areas of southern and East Africa. Alone among the cats, lion are social animals and live in prides of related females, their immature cubs and one or two males. Gender is obvious from appearance and determines an individuals role in the pride. Hunting in groups, lion can bring down most mammals. Lion prey is diverse, and influenced by availability: they favour wildebeest and zebra in the Serengeti, regularly hunt giraffe in Kruger and buffalo in both Lake Manyara National Park (page 82) and at Duba Plains in the northern Okavango (page 44). Although lion may hunt by day, they are primarily nocturnal, so you are most likely to find them active at dawn or after dusk and hear their roar throughout the night. In East Africa, lion are found on the savannah grasslands. In the bushveld of southern Africa, spotting lion is easiest during the winter months. The location for Kenyas Big Cat Diary, the Masai Mara has one of the highest densities of

lion. With its enormous herds of grazers, the Serengeti supports a large population of resident lion, particularly in the Seronera and the less-frequented Western Corridor. In the south-western part of Ugandas Queen Elizabeth National Park, Ishasha is renowned for its tree-climbing lion, a behaviour shared with the lion of Lake Manyara National Park in Tanzania. You are virtually certain to see lion in South Africas Sabi Sand Wildlife Reserve (page 34). In Botswana, Savuti is famed for its lion who have to survive long periods without water; Duba Plains for the continuous struggle between lion and buffalo. LEOPARD With its beautiful coat, opportunistic hunting and the relentless loss of its habitat, the elegant African leopard is a near-threatened species. Its spotted coat is unique to each individual and provides almost perfect camouflage. Leopard spots form distinctive rosettes, circular in East Africa and squarer in southern Africa. Leopard show a pronounced variation in size, from up to 90kg in the Kruger to just 30kg in mountainous areas. The adult leopard is solitary, except during mating. The female gives birth to two-four cubs, but infant mortality is nearly 50%. While mid-size antelope are preferred, the leopards

diet is varied, ranging from insects and rodents to large eland. Leopard hunt by stealth and inch as close as possible before they sprint and pounce. Hunting alone, leopard rarely defend their kills against lion and hyena, but frequently protect them by dragging the carcass up a tree. While leopard sightings in the thicker bush and acacia woodland of the central Serengeti are among the best in Africa, early morning and dusk are the best times to see them, because they generally hunt at night. A conservation area where night drives are allowed maximises the chance of a sighting. In South Africa, leopard are numerous and most easily observed in the Sabi Sand Wildlife Reserve. In Zambias South Luangwa (page 58), the leopard density is among the highest in the world, about 1 to 2.5sq.km, and you can expect excellent sightings. Chief s Island in the Moremi Game Reserve (page 44) is possibly the best place to see leopard in Botswana. It is rivalled by the private reserves around the Kwando-Linyanti river system, between the Okavango Delta and Chobe.

opposite Mana Pools, Zimbabwe below left Sabi Sands below right Okavango bottom right Hwange, Zimbabwe

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MASAI MARA
Legendary for its exceptional populations of big cats, diverse and abundant resident wildlife and for the annual Great Migration (page 42), the Masai Mara is the continuation of the Serengeti ecosystem over the border into southwestern Kenya. Primarily undulating, open grassland interspersed with riverine forest and woodlands, the Mara owes its name to the trees that dot the savannah and the Maasai pastoralists who migrated from the Lower Nile Valley to settle the area. The Mara consists of the national reserve, itself comprising the Mara Reserve and the Mara Triangle, and the adjoining game dispersal areas, or conservancies, where the game is equally abundant and the visitors fewer. The conservancies encompass an area as large as the national reserve. Camps in the conservancies may provide night drives and bush walks, too.

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WILDLIFE The number and variety of animals in the Mara is simply staggering: it is not uncommon to see ten or more species of plains game grazing on the savannah under the watchful eyes of hyena, cheetah or lion. Combined with the Mara, Talek and Sand rivers, the Maras vast grasslands and varied habitats are the key to this proliferation of wildlife. The rivers are inhabited by pods of hippo, and enormous Nile crocodile awaiting the opportunity to snatch an unlucky wildebeest crossing the waters or an antelope slaking its thirst. Resident plains game includes buffalo, eland, roan, topi, hartebeest, Thomsons and Grants gazelle, zebra, wildebeest and Masai giraffe. Herds of elephant keep the acacia in check. Lion, cheetah, spotted hyena, leopard and the nocturnal serval stalk the abundant plains game. The endangered Black rhino is here but is hard to find in the Mara. BIRDLIFE A dazzling array of birds can be found in the Mara, including an amazing 53 birds of prey. The 500+ bird list includes Jacksons widowbird, Grey-crested helmet-shrike, 12 species of Cisticola, the near threatened

Denhams bustard, three uncommon woodpeckers, the rare African finfoot, Usambiro barbet, the lovely Rosss turaco and numerous migrants. CAMPS & LODGES The Mara has a large and varied choice of accommodation; many conservationists believe there are too many. We favour the smaller camps in prime locations where the guiding is consistently excellent and your personal interests can be met. In the national reserve, in the area once reserved for Kenyas colonial governors, the four Governors Camps stand on either side of the Mara River ring-side seats for the Migration. Governors is an established family business and proud of the excellent training of its guides, its relations with the Maasai community and its ever-increasing sustainability. Award-winning LITTLE GOVERNORS is reached by boat, its 17 tents arranged around a watering-hole. GOVERNORS MAIN CAMP is tucked into the riverine forest. At IL MORAN, the ten spacious tents recall the elegant safaris of yesteryear down to the Victorian clawfoot bath. PRIVATE CAMP is superb for an authentic safari for a private party of 4 -16. We also like SALAS

CAMP, a seasonal camp on the Sand River in the quiet south of the reserve, which has close relations with the rhino wardens.

Adjoining the reserve, the Olare Orok Conservancy is a model of responsible conservation. The conservancy holds a lease from the Maasai landowners, who have removed homesteads and reduced their livestock herds in return for a fair monthly income. Only four camps accommodating a maximum of 72 people have traversing rights in the 30,000 acres of the OOC, so you are unlikely to encounter another vehicle as you observe the inordinate number of animals in the conservancy. We love MARA PLAINS for its supremely comfortable octagonal tents overlooking the Ntiakatek River, its superlative guides, the unimpeded viewing from its safari vehicles, its flexible attitude to game viewing and starlit dinners with grazing hippos providing the backing. KICHECHE BUSH CAMP is another favourite. The tents are lovely and vehicles have been designed with photography in mind. You can take a bush walk, visit a village or one of the schools Kicheche supports; or set off on foot for a nights fly-camping.

opposite Cheetah with cubs below left Saruni Campi ya Tembo below right Mara Plains Camp bottom left Elephant at Kicheche bottom right Mara Plains Camp

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MIGRATION
DECEMBER - MARCH After the short rains, the wildebeest are massed on the short grass plains of the southern Serengeti. Over a period of about three weeks from mid-January, the herds give birth to hundreds of thousands of calves easy pickings for the waiting cheetah, jackal and hyena. To be in the heart of the Migration, we recommend one of the superb mobile tented camps like OLAKIRA or NDUTU SAFARI LODGE, which has 34 cottages and a real family atmosphere. APRIL As the grasslands of the southern Serengeti are exhausted and the plains become dry, the herds gather and start to move north into the central Serengeti. By May, the area around Moru Kopjes and west of Seronera is busy with moving columns of thousands of wildebeest, accompanied by numerous zebra. We favour DUNIA CAMP in the Moru Kopjes, or SERENGETI SAFARI CAMP. MAY - JULY From the end of May to July, the Migration usually divides in two. One group moves west into the Western Corridor before the perilous The Migration is one of the most spectacular natural phenomena on earth. Over 1.3 million wildebeest, 200,000 zebra, 350,000 Thomsons gazelles and more than 10,000 eland make the annual, circular journey from the Serengeti to the Mara in the endless quest for fresh pasture and water. They travel their 500km route, pursued by hungry predators, and the force of the migratory instinct is palpable at the dramatic crossings of the crocodileinfested rivers. Rainfall has a strong influence on the Great Migration: the herbivores have to follow the path of the rains to find fresh grasses and a good water supply. While it is impossible to predict the exact path and timing of the Migration, we provide a general guide to the annual cycle. Grumeti River crossing, while the other travels to the rolling hills of the northern Serengeti passing near KLEINS CAMP. This is the season of the rut, another synchronised event in the life cycle of the wildebeest. We like MIGRATION CAMP on the main route north. Exclusive GRUMETI CAMP enjoys a prime position for the Grumeti River crossing. Between mid-June and July, the Migration braves the Mara and Talek rivers to reach the fresh grasses of the Masai Mara. SAYARI CAMP is strategically placed on the southern side of the Mara River, where the animals mass before the trial of the river crossing. In Kenya, LITTLE GOVERNORS CAMPs riverside location provides ringside viewing of the crossing. To the north, the migration from the Serengeti meets the earlier movement from the Loita Hills around MARA PLAINS CAMP. OCTOBER - DECEMBER As the clouds mass over the Serengeti, the animals move south through the western Loliondo and the Serengeti Lobo area, back towards the southern Serengeti. SUYAN CAMP is in the northern Loliondo from June to November and the southern Loliondo from December through March.

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An extraordinary density of wildlife is contained within the walls of this immense intact volcanic crater.

NGORONGORO
opposite Mara Plains top Ngorongoro Crater Lodge bottom Ngorongoro Crater floor

Created by the collapse of a giant volcano, Tanzanias Ngorongoro Crater is one of Africas most impressive geological features. It is the largest intact dry volcanic caldera on earth, with a 16-18km wide, mainly flat bottom and towering forested walls. Within this magnificent natural arena, comprising grassland, forest, swamp and a shallow lake, is an impressive concentration of wildlife: large herds of wildebeest and zebra; herds of Grants and Thomsons gazelle, tsessebe and buffalo; as well as eland, bushbuck and the occasional old tusker. The Crater is the best place to see Black rhino in Tanzania. Naturally, this munificence of herbivores is a predators paradise. Spotted hyena are common and golden and side-striped jackal are often seen. Lion are indifferent to vehicles and there is an increasing number of cheetah. Leopard frequent the wooded areas. This spectacular World Heritage Site attracts so many visitors that entry permits are limited to a half-day and congestion threatens the sense of wilderness. A couple of game drives in the Crater is about right.

CRATER RIM LODGES

NGORONGORO CRATER LODGE is really three small, opulent lodges on the southwest of the crater rim. The exteriors are loosely based on the Maasai manyatta; while the interiors are more stately home in style. Each suite is raised on stilts and provides fantastic views of the crater floor, as well as having four-poster-beds, open fires, Persian rugs and a personal butler. NGORONGORO SERENA LODGE is a large

nocturnal elephant and closest to the eastern descent road, so you have the Crater to yourself for a while. Leave time for a walk in the forested hills or into Empakaai Crater with an armed guide. NGORONGORO HIGHLANDS If you value a more authentic and rounded experience, GIBBS FARM, adjacent to Ngorongoro Conservation Area, is a real delight; just 90 minutes from the Crater and 30 minute from Lake Manyara.

hotel on the western rim, with magnificent sunrises and crater views. It is comfortable, welcomes children, is well priced for the location and stands just 8km from the descent road. On the opposite side, NGORONGORO SOPA LODGE is larger, with glorious sunsets and a pool. Its great advantage is its proximity to the quiet eastern descent road, which gives you a couple of hours of tranquil game viewing. With views over the undulating hills and forests beyond the Crater, lovely LEMALA LUXURY CAMP is a small and welcoming tented camp on the eastern rim. The site is peaceful, full of birdlife and the occasional

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OKAVANGO
different areas so you can experience a range of activities, habitats and wildlife. MOREMI RESERVE Created by the local Batawana people, the Moremi Game Reserve protects nearly a third of the Delta. This beautiful, lush and varied area of lagoons and shallow pans, woodland and plain, is exceptional for its high density of game. We love XIGERA CAMP, a remote and intimate camp in a private area of the Moremi. Surrounded by water, Xigera invites you to focus on the Deltas watery aspect, exploring by mokoro and motorboat throughout the year. CHIEFS ISLAND On safari in the Okavango, you can watch wildlife from open 4WD vehicles, on night game drives, walking safaris and motor boats. Perhaps the most evocative way is by mokoro, a dugout canoe which is poled along the waterways by your guide. Depending on location and seasonal water levels, some camps offer a mix of game activities, whilst others specialise in just water or land activities. Ideally, we recommend combining different types of camps in Chiefs Island is probably the richest area of Moremi, largely dry and renowned for its prolific game. On the northwestern tip of the island, in the exclusive Mombo Concession, CHIEFS CAMP is known for abundant sightings of predators: lion, leopard, cheetah and wild dog. Camps in the private concessions surrounding the Moremi offer night drives and walking safaris, which are not permitted within the national parks. DUBA PLAINS, one of the most remote camps in Botswanas Okavango Delta is the worlds largest inland delta, a unique system of waterways, lagoons and islands supporting a vast array of animal and plant life, with excellent year-round game viewing. The Okavango is a model of low volume, low impact tourism, which not only preserves the pristine ecosystem but offers a more exclusive safari experience. the northern Okavango, is really exciting, with dramatic confrontations between Dubas lion prides and enormous buffalo herds. West of Chiefs Island, NXABEGA TENTED CAMP has an electrically powered eco-boat for exploring the lagoons and channels. BAINES CAMP, in a private concession near the southwestern border of the Moremi Reserve, is a relaxed and intimate camp with four-poster sky beds that roll onto your deck for sleeping under the stars, great game viewing and the incredible privilege of walking and interacting with three orphaned semi-habituated elephants in their natural habitat.
Combine three nights at Nxabega Tented Camp with three nights at Sandibe Safari Lodge. From 3295, including air transfers, all meals, selected drinks and game-viewing activities. Two nights at Baines Camp, including the elephant interaction activity, two nights at Duba Plains and two nights at Chief s Camp cost from 4685. For ideas about including the Okavango in a comprehensive Botswana safari, see page 66. Alternatively, you can explore the Okavango on a small group camping safari (page 10).

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PRIVATE HOUSES
top Chongwe River House above left Luangwa Safari House above centre Ol Malo House above right Kizingoni Beach House

Absolutely perfect for families, groups of friends, or a honeymoon couple looking for the ultimate in privacy, a holiday staying in a private house, apartment or villa means you can custom-make your holiday experience from start to finish. PRIVATE SAFARI HOUSES Booked exclusively for you, and fully staffed with a private chef and waiters, safari houses also provide you with a dedicated gameviewing vehicle and your own guide. Families can schedule their game drives around the interests and attention spans of their children; and birders and serious photographers can pursue their interests as single-mindedly as they wish. Zambia has an enviable collection of stylish safari houses amidst superb game viewing country. LUANGWA SAFARI HOUSE in the South Luangwa and CHONGWE RIVER HOUSE in the Lower Zambezi make an excellent pairing for up to eight people; or extend your holiday with a stay at TANGALA HOUSE, near the Victoria Falls. Smaller parties of four might prefer ROBINS HOUSE, or one of the houses at SUSSI & CHUMA.

With its impeccable eco-credentials, outstanding reputation, authentic hospitality and plethor a of activities sure to appeal to all generations, OL MALO HOUSE, on the edge of the Laikipia Plateau in Kenya, offers an outstanding wilderness experience for up to 12 people. If you prefer a malaria-free safari, KHUSELA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE in the South Africas Eastern Cape is just a short drive from the beach and, with no predators on the reserve, you can explore on foot, in a two-seater 4x4 buggy, or by safari vehicle with your private in-house guide. For the Big Five experience, take a day safari in nearby Pumba Game Reserve. Alternatively, stay at KWANDWE UPLANDS PRIVATE HOMESTEAD on the breathtaking Kwandwe Private Game Reserve. CAPE TOWN A private villa or apartment makes a great alternative to an hotel and offers excellent value in some of the best locations in Cape Town. Apartments are fully serviced and generally accommodate from two to six; villas anywhere from four to 16 people. We have a wonderful selection in trendy Camps Bay, as well as in and around the vibrant V&A Waterfront.

THE BEACH We like the two- and three-bedroom villas of the BELLE MARE PLAGE in Mauritius, with its wide, powdery white beach. You still have all the facilities of a resort hotel and your own beach retreat, with private pool and dining. On a long stretch of virtually empty, golden sand on the island of Lamu, off the northern coast of Kenya, the seven spacious KIZINGONI BEACH HOUSES are lovely, beautifully furnished and exceptionally comfortable. Each house has a choice of terraces, verandahs and lounge areas for solitary or social pursuits, its own staff, skipper and boat, pool and choice of dining areas for meals created around the tastes of your party.

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QUIRIMBAS
The islands that make up the Quirimbas Archipelago are a collection of sparkling jewels scattered in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean off the coast of northern Mozambique. This untouched corner of the universe was undisturbed until the close of the 20th century, when enterprising conservationists in partnership with the Mozambique government, the London Zoological Society and the local community launched the Cabo Delgado Biodiversity and Tourism Project to conserve and develop the area. The diverse marine wildlife it was founded to protect includes Green and Hawksbill turtles, whale sharks, dugongs, populations of dolphins, Manta rays and humpback whales. Over 40 genera of coral have been catalogued, and more than 350 species of reef fish thrive on the pristine reefs. In 2002, the whole area was declared a national park.

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VAMIZI ISLAND The first lodge built by the project was on Vamizi, a 12km long and 1.5km wide island fringed by coral reefs and soft white sand in the far north, by the Tanzanian border. Activities at VAMIZI ISLAND LODGE include turtle watching, snorkelling, exceptional diving, game fishing, dhow sailing, and walking on the beaches or in the virgin forest that covers the island. The ten spacious luxury chalets are individually set into the forest bordering the shore and have private verandahs overlooking the dazzlingly white sand beach. IBO ISLAND In the 18th century, Ibo Island was important both as a slave trading port and as an administrative centre for the Portuguese empire. Abandoned early in the 20th century, Ibos grand palaces, villas and star-shaped forts have fallen into disrepair and the buildings of this haunting backwater are now overrun by the tendrils of strangler figs. Stay at IBO ISLAND LODGE, a comfortable lodge that occupies three restored seafront mansions and provides great food and hospitality, as well as a rich choice of activities. These include guided historical tours of the town, boat trips through the mangrove swamps and visits to the local

silversmiths: bring them your unwanted silver and they will make you some fine new jewellery. The beach at Ibo is on a sandbar which rises afresh each day from the tropical sea. Ibo Island Lodge and Guludo Beach Lodge (below) share a common objective. They were built with the intention of providing clear benefits to their local communities and, at each lodge, the community involvement provides added interest and a richer experience. OTHER ISLANDS At the time of writing, three other islands have accommodation. MEDJUMBE is a thin speck of an island, long enough for a runway on one half and 12 well-equipped but small chalets on the other. MATEMO is a larger, resort-style lodge of 24 chalets sporting all mod-cons including satellite TV, air-conditioning and plenty of activities. QUILALEA is a tiny island with no airstrip and just nine secluded and luxurious villas, several with a private strip of beach or cove. Due to reopen at the end of 2010, Quilalea will provide the same five-star plus luxury as its sister lodge, AZURA, on Benguerra Island. The island has a fabulous setting in a marine reserve and one can snorkel and dive right off the beach.

THE MAINLAND
GULUDO BEACH LODGE, on the mainland across the water from Ibo Island, consists of nine lovely beachside bandas, hand-built to an innovative design using local materials. This award-winning sustainable lodge is a joint venture between a young English couple and the community in Guludo village to protect the environment and revitalise the local economy. Activities include diving, snorkelling, bush walks, village trips and much more.

opposite Vamizi Island Lodge below Adobe Banda, Guludo bottom left Vamizi room bottom right Old slave wharves, Ibo town

Also on the mainland, some way south of Pemba, NUARRO is owned by two Dutch couples with a passion for diving and strong ethical principles. Constructed from local materials by local people, Nuarro blends into its setting a lovely, sandy beach surrounded by virgin bush. Its 12 spacious chalets provide uninterrupted bay views in one direction and of the bush and baobab forest in the other. Nuarro offers a wide choice of land, water and cultural activities, and the diving is extraordinarily varied. We particularly like being able to dive from the shore at Nuarro and the richness of the house reef, but experienced divers can enjoy challenging dives along the fabulous Baixo do Pinda walls, great night dives and wreck dives.

ITINERARY IDEAS
Combine four nights on safari at a lodge in the Sabi Sand Wildlife Reserve (Kruger region page 34) with five nights at Guludo and two on Ibo from 2695. Combine a 3-night safari in Gorongosa (see page 58) with five nights on Nuarro from 2135.

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See the changing landscape of South Africas interior in great comfort and style.

RAIL JOURNEYS
Travelling through Africa by train combines the romance and glamour of a cruise with the stunning vistas of the African continent. The most popular route is between Cape Town and Pretoria, travelling through the verdant Winelands and rocky outcrops of the Western Cape and the vast open plains of the Karoo. Depending on the train and direction of travel, passengers can break the journey with a visit to the historic mining town of Kimberley or the quaint village of Matjiesfontein, which remains largely unchanged from colonial times. THE BLUE TRAIN This renowned train operates regular overnight journeys between Cape Town and Pretoria. Steeped in history, The Blue Train has been a South African institution since 1946. You can expect five-star service, custom-made compartments with en suite bathrooms, personal butler service and oversize windows through which to gaze at the changing landscapes. The sophisticated suspension has been designed to allow the train to run through the night without disturbing your sleep. Cape Town to Pretoria from 935 Please inquire about occasional special itineraries including safari trips to the Kruger and golf tours to KwaZulu Natal. ROVOS RAIL Rovos bills itself as the most luxurious train in the world. It offers the ultimate in glamorous train travel from its beautifullyrestored colonial-era station in Pretoria to a number of destinations throughout southern Africa. Rovos takes a more leisurely two nights over the trip to Cape Town and includes a stop at both Kimberley and Matjiesfontein in both directions. Rovos operates a regular schedule of train journeys from Pretoria to Victoria Falls and Durban, and occasional longer trips around South Africa, to the Namibian coast or through Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia to Dar es Salaam. Rovos Rail sets a tone of graceful elegance, epitomised by the painstakingly restored carriages and dining cars. Modern conveniences like air-conditioning, mini-bars and en suite facilities blend in with the period fittings and wood panelling. We particularly like the deluxe suites with writing desks and permanent double beds (the bed in the Pullman suites is converted into a sofa during the day). After a lavish four-course dinner, retire to the open-air observation car at the rear for a nightcap over a game of chess or while contemplating the bright constellations of the southern skies. Cape Town to Pretoria from 1115; Cape Town to Dar es Salaam from 6095.
top Montagu Pass above left Deluxe Suite, Rovos Rail above right Room service, Rovos Rail opposite Bedroom view, Sand Rivers Selous

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ROMANCE
MAKANYANE SAFARI LODGE On an exclusive concession in South Africas malaria-free Madikwe Game Reserve, intimate Makanyanes enormous glass-fronted suites dissolve the division between outdoors and in. Open the wide folding doors of the bathrooms and savour the scents and sounds of the bush from the bath. You can relish Makanyanes fine cuisine on your private verandah with views over the bush or overlooking a favourite waterhole. If you would like to sleep out under numberless stars, Makanyanes overnight hide is a fabulous bush experience. SAND RIVERS CAMP Deep in the heart of southern Tanzanias vast Selous Game Reserve, Sand Rivers Camp is about the romance of the wild. Set on a wide curve of the Rufiji River, the five rooms and three suites are open-fronted, yet private, with achingly beautiful views over the river. This is one of Africas best safari camps, with some of the Tanzanias finest guides for your varied adventures game drives in open 4WDs and walking, boat trips and river safaris, flycamping and fishing and a staff committed to ensuring your safari is as special as the occasion. SASAAB If it werent for the untamed beauty of the Samburu lands, the warmth of the hospitality, and the abundant wildlife of the reserve; if it werent for the surrounding Samburu culture, the restorative spa and the kopjes from which to toast the end of day, Sasaab would still be the place for ultra-romantic, stylish lodgings. Set in a community conservancy, Sasaab can also provide you with the pleasures of walking or riding a camel through the bush or along the river, as well as night drives. GARONGA SAFARI CAMP West of the Kruger, Garonga is a lovely, tented safari camp above a dry riverbed. From its inception, Garonga has offered an unhurried, personal safari experience including game drives, walks and private sleep-outs on a deck in the veldt and picnic in the trees and a holistic safari for the soul. Even if you are not into reflexology, the untouched beauty, the pace and the care with which you are lavished is soothing and refreshing. Once at Garonga, many cynics suspend disbelief and enjoy the bush bath. With breath-taking wildlife, sweeping vistas, twinkling night skies and palm-fringed beaches, Africa is naturally romantic. Whether you are celebrating an anniversary, a special birthday, plan to propose, or simply want an intimate getaway, we can design a fabulous trip to suit. Our honeymoon section (page 28) contains some ideas for romantic holidays. Here, we focus on some of those places that will go out of their way to ensure your personal dreams are fulfilled.

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