Vilnius

N107 - 6Lt
www.inyourpocket.com
VILNIUS
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
August - November 2012
Inside
A full y updated, impartial scrutiny
of the best things Vilnius has to
offer visitors for the next four months
Plus
Things to see and do in
Keturiasdeimt Totori
Europes best city
guides for more than
20 years
20
Contents
3
Contents
August - November 2012 vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Arriving in Vilnius 6
Because its not as easy as you think
Basics 6
A quick cultural primer
History 9
A mind-boggling millennium
Events 9
Just the ticket
Culture 13
Art, ballet, cinema, photography and more
Where to stay 16
A bed for all budgets
Dining & Nightlife
Restaurants 24
From cepelinai to sushi
Contents
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Cafs 33
Where to find the best espresso
Nightlife 44
Beer, clubs and a little bit of nakedness
Sightseeing 54
A fully comprehensive guide
Getting around 68
When walking isnt enough
Mail & Phones 73
Directory
Shopping 74
Lifestyle 84
Health 88
Sport & Leisure 90
Business 92
Maps & Index
Country map 93
Street register 94
City centre map 95
City map 96
Index 98
Visit the strange and beautiful past of Lithuanias Islamic
heritage in the tiny village of Keturiasdeimt Totori some
20km south of Vilnius. Find everything you need to know
on p.61.
Live music at Vienuol yno Kiemas.
Hats off to the merry innkeepers of Vilnius, whove finall y re-
alised the potential of the city centres empty spaces and
consequentl y stuffed great big outdoor bars in several of
them. This may seem somewhat pass to many a reader,
but for the locals its literall y a breath of fresh air. Find a
selection of the most interesting on p.44
4
Foreword
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Editorial
Editor Sco
Research Vaida Kurseviit
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynait
Cover Richard Schofield
Sales & Circulation
Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket
General Manager Rta Klimaviit
Accounting V ACORDO
Sales Manager Rta Klimaviit
This guidebook and all of our other
Lithuanian guides are available for sale
from kiosks, tourist information centres,
the Vilnius In Your Pocket office and other
outlets throughout Vilnius and Lithuania as
well as online at www.inyourpocket.com.
Complimentary copies of Vilnius In Your
Pocket are also available in many hotels.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP
1992-2012; some photos, LATGA-A;
maps, cartographer. All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form, except brief
extracts for the purpose of review,
without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand
name In Your Pocket is used under license
from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardin 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Vilnius In Your Pocket
Bernardin 9-4
Vilnius, Lithuania, LT-01124
mob. (+370) 610 468 64
tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76
fax (+370) 5 212 29 82
vilnius@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1392-0057
UAB VIYP
Printed by UAB Lietuvos ryto
spaustuv
Published three times per year
Print run 20,000
As we go to press at the end of July the Gul f Stream
conti nues to act like a spoil t chil d, refusi ng to
share i ts toys and generall y making a mockery
of the word summer. On behal f of Mother Nature,
Vilnius In Your Pocket would like to apologise for
the gross inconvenience caused so far this year.
Every cloud has a silver lining however, and the
good news is that not only are you now reading a
fully updated guide to everything you need to know
about Vilnius for the next four months, the weather
is set to improve, making the citys glorious parks
and gardens (see p.65) more tempting than ever.
For those who need more from their li ves than
eati ng, dri nki ng and chasi ng gi rl s, we ve al so
cobbled together a small feature about the tiny
rural village of Keturiasdeimt Totori (see p.61),
where the residents once wrote Belarusian using
the Arabic script and that still boasts a marvellous
little mosque and cemetery. And you thought Vilnius
was Li thuanian. Thi nk agai n! Have a smashi ng
time in Vilnius everyone, be good and come back
soon. Enjoy the rest of the summer and the rest
of this guide. Vilnius In Your Pocket welcomes all
comments, suggestions, death threats, marriage
proposals and anything else you can throw at us
as usual. Write to us at vilnius.inyourpocket.com
and see you again in December.
Two touri sts snappi ng i m-
ages of the Cathedral -Ba-
silica of St. Stanislaus & St.
Ladislaus. Read about other
famous and not-so famous
thi ngs to see and vi si t i n
our What to see secti on
on p.54.
Cover story
It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In
Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania.
Since then, we have grown to become the largest
publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe.
We now cover more than 75 cities across the
continent (with Ghent, Belgium, the latest city to
be pocketed) and the number of In Your Pocket
guides published each year is approaching an
amazing five million.
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Search for IYP Guides by name.
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Foreword
6
BasiCs
BasiCs
Population Lithuania 3,184,054 Vilnius 541,113
Ethnic composition (Lithuania) Lithuanians 83.7%
Poles 6.6% Russians 5.3% Belarusians 1.3% Ukraini-
ans 0.6% Others 3.3%
Territory 65,303km
2
Roughly twice the size of Belgium,
and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland,
peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest
distance is 276km, east to west is 373km
Borders Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia
453km Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km
Longest river Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania)
Largest lake Drkiai 4,479ha
Highest point Auktasis 293.8m
Basic data
Buy a print copy of Vilnius In Your Pocket inside the
airport, bus and train station for just 6Lt. If youre coming
into the city by public transport, see the information about
major changes to the ticket system in the city on p.68.
By bus Vilnius rather dreary bus station (autobus stotis)
is located less than 1km south of Old Town in a less than
salubrious, albeit perfectly safe area. Not really geared up
for foreign arrivals, most facilities are located inside one
grey building and include kiosks and shops selling maps,
cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, downstairs
toilets (1Lt) and ATMs. For 24-hour currency exchange,
use the Citadele bank across the street inside the train
station. A bagain for left luggage is located at the far end
of the platforms. Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few
minutes by turning left on exiting the station and walking
down Sod. Many buses, minibuses and trolleybuses can
be found in the immediate area, all going off in different
directions around the city. Among the useful trolleybuses
going through the city centre are N2 and 5. Buy a ticket
from the driver for 2.50Lt. Taxis are parked up in a number
of places. Be sure to negotiate a fare before you leave.
Expect to pay 20Lt or even more for a short trip to Old
Town. Calling one in advance is the best option.
By plane Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus
Oro Uostas) is just 5km south of the city centre. Even if
youre landing from a non-Schengen country, arrival formali-
ties are quick and relatively straightforward. After collecting
your luggage find a compact arrivals hall complete with a
kiosk for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile
phone cards, ATMs, currency exchange offices and a small
tourist information kiosk (Open 09:00 21:00). Toilets are
to the right, and car rental companies to the left. Getting
to town A taxi to Old Town using one of the vehicles parked
outside the arrivals terminal will cost about 80Lt. Calling
one in advance will cost considerably less. If you dont
know how to do it yourself ask the people in the tourist
information kiosk to order one for you. If youre travelling to
the centre and dont mind roughing it with the locals, save
a small fortune and take public transport. The bus stop
is to the left of the taxi stand. Bus N1 goes to the train
station and bus N2 to Lukiki Aikt and north over the
river past the Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva. A timetable is
posted at the stop. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.50Lt.
Alternatively, hop on a train and in less than 10 minutes
be at the train station in the centre of the city. Buy a ticket
on board for just 2Lt. The airport train station can be found
along the road outside the main exit and on the left. Trains
leave every hour or so from around 06:00 until 21:30, with
a journey time of just seven minutes.
By train The train station (geleinkelio stotis) is fairl y
large by local standards and unfortunatel y not very well
signposted in English. Find kiosks and shops for snacks,
maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards scat-
tered in and around the building, free toilets downstairs,
ATMs and a 24-hour Citadele bank outside to the left for
changing money. The train station also has a small tour-
ist information kiosk, which among other things features
friendl y staff who speak English. Getting to town Get
to Old Town in a few minutes by going straight ahead
on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sod).
The train station is just across the street from the bus
station. See By bus for more information about getting
to the centre by public transport.
Arriving in Vilnius
Alcohol
Almost without exception Lithuanian beer (alus) is light,
crisp, cold, cheap and delicious. Many varieties exist and
youre recommended to test a few before settling on a
regular brand. Among the more common varieties are the
magnificent vyturys from Klaipda, Utenos from Utena and
Kalnapilis from Panevys. Perhaps surprisingly, Vilnius cant
claim its own brewery. If you want to drink beer made in the
capital youll have to drink it in a microbrewery (see Nightlife).
Be warned, Lithuanian beers tend to be stronger than their
Western counterparts, making the forming of the simplest
words (such as alus) a challenge after just a couple of the
most lethal. In Old Town expect to pay somewhere in the
region of 5-10Lt for half a litre. Lithuanian vodka (degtin)
is cheap, generally of good quality and is drunk with gusto
at the mere rumour of the dropping of a hat. Among the
more interesting spirits are starka, a 15th-century Polish-
Lithuanian concoction of dark, syrupy rye vodka fortified with
apple leaves and lime blossom, and the local illicit firewater,
samagonas, available through the right connections. Take
note that imported alcohol isnt cheap. Dont go falling into
the trap of thinking that because the local stuff is giveaway
everything else is too. Check prices before a session to avoid
an embarrassingly large bill at the end of the evening. At the
time of writing it was illegal to buy alcohol in shops between
22:00 and 08:00 anywhere in Lithuania, one of the countrys
more cynical pieces of legislation that does nothing except
penalise the countrys poor.
Borders
Lithuania is bordered by the Baltic Sea, Belarus, Latvia,
Poland and the peculiar Russian exclave born out of the
ashes of WWII and the disintegration of the Soviet Union that
is Kaliningrad. EU membership and Schengen agreements
have as good as removed al l border formal i ti es wi th
Latvia and Poland whilst getting in an out of Belarus and
Kaliningrad remains wrapped up in red tape for holders of
most passports. Visas for both can be obtained from the
Belarusian and Russian embassies in Vilnius as well as
from a few travel agencies. Visas for Kaliningrad are now
available i f you arrive there by air. For more information
about getting in and out of Lithuania, see the website at
www.pasienis.lt.
1=3.45Lt 1=4.39Lt US$1=2.84Lt
(July 26, 2012)
Exchange rates
BasiCs
7
BasiCs
The climate information below only gives an average
indication of what to expect. Winter temperatures often
plummet to below -20C.
20
10
0
30
-10
J
-20
Temperature, C
0
100
50
25
75
F M A M J J A O S D N
Rainfall, mm
M A M J J A O S D N
Climate
Crime & Safety
Crime is rampant in Lithuania, a great deal of it taking place
inside the clandestine world of business and politics and
consequently having little if no effect on the average visitor.
Crimes closer to home include such petty annoyances as
having bits of your car stolen to the inevitable disappearing
purses and mobile phones. Dont leave valuables in unattended
pockets or lying around on tables. The chances of getting
robbed in the street remain tiny. However, caution never did
anybody any harm, and youre advised not to flaunt your wallet in
stupid places or announce to the entire world your huge wealth
by wearing loud jewellery in quiet back streets. Walk tall, look
like you know what youre doing, and you wont be troubled.
Green-uniformed police (policija) are supposed to be keeping
the peace in Old Town, although finding one when you need is
like looking for the proverbial needle in the haystack.
Customs
Those arriving from other EU countries have no import
restrictions placed upon them, although they will need to make
it known if theyre arriving with more than 10,000 worth of
cash. When arriving from non-EU countries youre entitled
to bring in one litre of spirits or four litres of wine or sixteen
litres of beer. If arriving by air you can bring 200 cigarettes,
100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco, a figure thats
drastically reduced to 40 cigarettes, 20 cigarillos, 10 cigars
or 50g of tobacco if arriving by any other means. You cant
bring meat, milk or dairy products from outside the EU except
under certain circumstances. You cant arrive with live birds
other than pets for non-commercial purposes. Dogs require
vaccinations and passports (or other proof of vaccination).
You can take home as much art as you wish tax free unless
its over 50 years old, in which case expect to pay 10-20 per
cent duty. Take two photographs of the art piece and your
passport to the Committee of Cultural Heritage, nipiki 3,
tel. (+370) 5 273 42 56. Many of the better antique shops in
Vilnius can take care of all the paperwork for you. For more
detailed information check www.cust.lt, and for information
on animal related arrivals, check www.vet.lt.
Disabled travellers
While things have greatly improved for the disabled over
the past few years, Li thuania is still a tough place to
get around on anything other than two well functioning
legs. Even places that claim to be wheelchair friendly are
often flanked by deep kerbs or stairs, or are located on
cobbled streets. Outside the capital, youll be lucky to find
any thought given to wheelchair accessibility at all. The
newer trolleybuses in Vilnius have low entries, spaces for
wheelchairs, and hearing loops.
Driving
The common or garden Lithuanian driver is notable for pos-
sessing certain eccentric habits almost unheard of in the
West. A typical, edge-of-the-seat adventure sat beside a
local Lewis Hamilton comes with lashings of tailgating, cutting
lanes and dangerous overtaking manoeuvres. It comes as no
great surprise to non-Italian Westerners whove been in the
country for more than a couple of days to learn that Lithuania
has the highest rate of road fatalities in the European Union.
If youre unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident in
which any material or personal damage occurs, you must
leave your vehicle exactly where it is, call the police (tel. 112)
and wait for them to arrive. Even if your car is obstructing the
flow of traffic, dont move it until the police get there and have
danced about the wreckage with a tape measure and some
lollipops, drawn some little pictures, and given you the all-clear.
Not only is leaving the scene of an accident an offence, but the
lack of an official police report will give insurance companies
the excuse theyre looking for not to pay. Seat belts must be
worn and headlights must be on at all times while driving. All
vehicles must be fitted with a small fire extinguisher and carry
a first-aid kit, a reflective road-side warning triangle and a
reflective safety vest. You must have your vehicle registration
papers and licence with you at all times. During the winter, youll
also want to make sure you have an ice scraper and maybe
a brush for getting all the weather off your car before you set
off. Winter tyres are mandatory between November 10 and
April 10. In and around town the speed limit is 50km/h unless
indicated otherwise. Elsewhere you can drive at 90km/h on
asphalt roads and 70km/h on dirt roads, and on highways
you can drive at 130km/h until November 1, when youll have
to stick to 110km/h.
Electricity
Lovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls
at 220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round
two-pin European variety. Some thinner Russian sockets still
exist, although if you push hard enough you should get the
plug in. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should
bring an appropriate adaptor, as theyre almost impossible
to find in Lithuania.
Vilnius Tourist Informa-
ti on (Vi l ni aus Turi zmo
Inf ormacijos Centras ir
Konferencij Biuras) B-2,
Vil ni aus 22, tel. (+370) 5
262 96 60, fax (+370) 5 262
81 69, tic@vilnius.lt, www.
vilnius-tourism.lt. Tour book-
ings for groups and individuals,
audio guides, Vilnius City Card, maps, tourist-related
publications, cultural events (www.vilnius-events.lt), taxi
and accommodation booking. English-, German-, Polish-
and Russian-speaking staff. See their extensive website
for more information. Also at Didioji 31 (Town Hall), tel.
(+370) 5 262 64 70. Geleinkelio 16 (Train Station),
tel./fax (+370) 5 269 20 91. ventaragio 2 (Cathedral
Square), Rodnios Kelias 2 (Vilnius International Airport),
tel. (+370) 5 230 68 41. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. J
Tourist information
8
BasiCs
history
Language
Li thuanian is a very odd language indeed. One of the
oldest still spoken today, the tongue that time forgot is
supposedly similar in grammatical form as well as sharing
many of the same words with, of all things, Sanskrit. With
seven noun cases, four declension patterns, absolutel y
no similari ty to anything youve ever heard before and
an obligation to pronounce the stress on every word in
the right place to stand any chance whatsoever of being
understood, getting to grips wi th the local lingo is at best
tough al though there is the advantage when learning i t
that i ts bound by rules that simpl y need to be learnt by
rote. Thankfully, most places where tourists congregate in
the country are now fairly English-friendly, plus Lithuanias
rich cul tural past has left an accumulation of pol yglots
nati onwi de, wi th Russian spoken al most everywhere,
Polish in and around the capi tal and German the closer
you get to the coast.
Local time
Lithuania is in the Eastern European Time (EET) zone at
GMT+2hrs. When its 12:00 in Vilnius its 05:00 in New York,
10:00 in London, 11:00 in Warsaw, 13:00 in Moscow and
19:00 in Tokyo. Eastern European Summer Time (EEST,
GMT+3hrs) falls between the last Sundays of March and
October respectively.
Money & Costs
The unit of currency in Lithuanian is the litas (Lt), which
comes in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Lt
and 500Lt notes, 1Lt, 2Lt and 5Lt coins and a number of
weightless, worthless and perfectly useless centai/cent
coins. The litas is pegged to the euro at the rate of 3.45Lt
to 1. Most places of any note in Vilnius happily accept
major credit cards, and ATMs joyfully spew out money to
any foreigner with money in their account. If youre planning
a trip to the countryside however, make sure you take plenty
of cash along as it can still be rather old fashioned to say
the least. Vilnius is no longer the cheap city for foreigners
it used to be, although it still offers value to most visitors
from the West. A good night out for two in Vilnius Old Town
including a meal in a posh restaurant followed by drinks
in a bar and a club to finish off wont leave you with much
change, if any change at all, from 100. Most prices have
rocketed of late, although short-term accommodation is still
extremely good value.
Religion
Contemporary Lithuania is a predominantly Catholic country
with almost 80 per cent of the population pledging allegiance
to the Pope. Pagan Lithuanians avoided Christianity until
relatively late in European history, finally converting for
political reasons in 1387 in the eastern half of the country
and in 1413 in the west. The countrys pagan heritage can
still be seen in many aspects of life including the days of
the week (literally First Day, Second Day etc.), the continued
naming of its female population after flowers and plants and
the countless festivals throughout the year that remain very
much as they were before the coming of Christianity. The area
that makes up contemporary Lithuania has historically been
the proud home of countless religions over the centuries,
among them Russian Orthodox, Protestantism, Islam and of
course Judaism, of which the former makes up the second
largest population at just under five per cent. Its considered
polite for men to remove their hats and women to cover their
shoulders when visiting a Catholic church.
January 1 New Years Day & National Flag Day
February 16 Independence Day
March 11 Restoration of Independence Day
March 31 (2013) Easter Sunday (Catholic)
April 1 (2013) Easter Monday (Catholic)
May 1 A day off for the workers!
May 5 (2013) Mothers Day
June 24 Jonins, or Midsummer
July 6 Crowning of King Mindaugas
August 15 olin (Assumption)
November 1 All Saints Day
December 25, 26 Christmas (Catholic)
National holidays
Service
Anyone who spends more than a couple of days immersed
in Lithuanian life cant fail to notice just how extraordinarily
indifferent if not just plain rude some public servants can
be. From the middle-aged lady in the post office to the
waitress in the expensive restaurant youre dining in, dont
be surprised to get no eye contact, and if you do get eye
contact, dont be too surprised either to watch those eyes
roll with utter contempt. Even the ever-increasing examples
of friendly service here often come with an ineptitude of
mammoth proportions, so, if youre sensitive to these things
be prepared to bite your lip and suffer. If theres a culprit at
work then its surely management, from the mandarins who
oversee the large state organisations to the bar owners who
cant be bothered to train their staff.
Smoking
If its Lithuanian and its got a lung that works then it probably
smokes. Many popular international cigarette brands are
readily available, and cigars, pipes, rolling tobacco and
cigarette papers are also reasonably well represented.
Compared to somewhere like the UK, cigarettes in Lithuania
are ridiculously cheap. Lithuanias pipe-smoking former
Prime Minister Gediminas Kirkilas not so long ago forgot
to remember that smoking is banned in all cafs, bars,
restaurants, and clubs. He should have checked our listings
for venues with special smoking rooms and avoided a
1,000Lt fine.
Toilets
Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (wheres the
toilet?) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you
use their facilities, although some have started to enforce
a small charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few
non-tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with
plenty of paper and soap. A ghastly relic from days gone
by that refuses to go away even in many of the swankiest
establishments is the provision of a filthy bucket, kept next
to the toilet, and used for the collection of spent paper.
Visas
Li thuania is a member of the European Union and the
Schengen area. Visitors from the EU as well as from 30 or
so other countries including Australia, Canada, Japan, New
Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and the United States
dont require a visa to stay for up to 90 days within a six
month period. A visa issued for any Schengen country is
also valid in Lithuania. For more information, take a look
at www.urm.lt.
BasiCs
9
history
During the WWI German
occupati on of 1915-
1918 the Li thuani an
Council proclaims in-
dependence on Febru-
ary 16, 1918. As the
Germans retreat, the
Lithuanian state comes
under attack by the Polish General Jzef Pisudski (1867-
1935) who seizes control of Vilnius and areas south of
it from1920-1939. Poland maintains control of these
areas by claiming they were a portion of the pre-war
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Kaunas becomes
the interim capital of Lithuania until 1940. During the
inter-war period independent Lithuania prospers under
the 14-year dictatorship (1926-1940) of the nationalist
president Antanas Smetona (1874-1944). Lithuanian
independence ends with the clandestine signing on Au-
gust 23, 1939 of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact between
Hitler and Stalin, who carve up Europe into portions to
be controlled by Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union.
Lithuania is subject to both Soviet and Nazi occupation.
Between 1941-1944 the Nazis and their Lithuanian
henchmen organise the mass murder of over 200,000
Jews, 94% of the entire Litvak population. The return of
the Red Army and the re-incorporation of Lithuania into
the USSR on July 7, 1944 results in the deportation of
some 250,000 Lithuanians to Siberia, a task theyd al-
ready begun in 1940 before the Nazis arrived. Lithuanian
partisans, dubbed the Forest Brothers (Miko Broliai),
wage guerrilla warfare until 1953. In an act of protest
against the Soviet occupation, on May 14, 1972 19-
year-old student Romas Kalanta sets fire to himself in
public in Kaunas, dying from his wounds.
20th century
The Lithuanian state arose and strengthened to counter
the religious fervour of crusading German knights. Lithuania
was the last European country to convert to Christianity,
and has seen countless invasions and occupations over
the centuries.
7th-2nd centuries BC The first Baltic tribes establish them-
selves on whats now known as Lithuanian territory.
11th century The word Lithuania is first used in written
texts in AD 1009. At the same time, a wooden castle is built
on Vilnius Gediminas Hill (Gedimino Kalnas), leading to the
construction of a diminutive settlement beneath it.
13th century emaitians defeat the Livonian Knights at
the Battle of Saul in 1236, establishing the settlement
of iauliai. After uniting local chieftains, on July 6, 1253
Mindaugas (circa 1203-1263) is crowned Lithuanias one
and only king. During his reign as the first Christian sovereign
of the state, Vilnius Cathedral is built. However, the majority
of the population remains pagan.
14th century In 1323 Grand Duke Gediminas (circa 1275-
1341) sends letters to various Germanic-speaking towns,
inviting their craftsmen and merchants to settle in Vilnius with
the promise of religious freedom. Trying to ensure peace, in
1325 he forms a union with Poland by marrying his daughter
Aldona to the Polish kings son. The Polish-Lithuanian Com-
monwealth comes into being with the 1387 Krva Union,
whereby Gediminas grandson Jogaila (circa 1348-1434)
becomes a Polish king by marrying the Polish Princess Jad-
wiga (circa 1373-1399). Even with the increased security,
the Teutonic Knights still manage to invade, resulting in the
1390 burning of the wood-constructed Vilnius.
15th century The Teutonic Knights are eventually defeated
on July 15, 1410 by joint Polish-Lithuanian armies led by
Jogaila and Grand Duke Vytautas (1350-1430) at the Bat-
tle of Grunwald (Lithuanian, algiris. German, Tannenberg),
one of the greatest battles in medieval Europe. The country
flourishes and by 1430 the borders extend from the Baltic
to the Black Sea.
16th century The Renaissance sees marked cul tural
advances, notably the printing of the first Lithuanian book
in 1547, and the founding of Vilnius University in 1579. The
end of the Jogaila dynasty in 1572 results in the political
and cultural marginalisation of Lithuania. Polish becomes the
state language. The Livonian Wars (1558-1582) with Russia
and Sweden drain the Commonwealths resources.
18th century At the start of the 18th century both Swedish
and Russian forces try to seize control of Vilnius. In 1795
Lithuania is incorporated into tsarist Russia. The 120-year
Russian occupation is only interrupted by a short libera-
tion by Napoleons army in 1812 on his failed campaign
to Moscow. During the Napoleonic armys return through
Vilnius nearly 40,000 of his soldiers die due to starvation
and extreme cold.
19th century Vilnius University acts as a hotbed of dissent
against the tsarist government, culminating in the 1831 No-
vember Uprising, which leads to the closing of the institution.
Russification ensues with non-Orthodox churches forcibly
closed, the Lithuanian language banned in 1864 and the
country named the Northwest Region. The ban on the Latin
script forces the smuggling in of books from neighbouring
East Prussia. Another uprising takes place in 1863 and
General Muravyov (The Hangman) is sent from Moscow to
restore order, resulting in deaths by hanging for most of the
leading activists. The repression is countered and defied by
a revival of Lithuanian culture and tradition. In 1883 Jonas
Basanaviius (1851-1927) publishes the first Lithuanian-
language newspaper, Auszra (Aura, or Dawn).
Independence & Beyond
1988 June 3 The Lithuanian reform movement Sjdis is
founded by some 500 representatives of the intelligentsia,
advocating openness, democracy and sovereignty. August
23 Some 250,000 people gather in Vilnius to mark the 49th
anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact.October 7 The
Lithuanian flag is raised on Gediminas Castle.

1989 February 16 Lithuanian Independence Day is officially
commemorated. August 23 An estimated 2,000,000
Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians join hands in a human
chain stretching the 650km between Vilnius and Tallinn to
protest the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop
Pact.
1990 January 11-13 Mikhail Gorbachevs visit to Vilnius
i s far from pl easant as 300,000 pro-i ndependence
demonstrators turn out to welcome him. March 4 Pro-
independence Sjdis candidates receive an overall majority
in the first free elections in Lithuania since 1940. March
11 The Supreme Council (later to become Parliament, or
Seimas) declares the restoration of Lithuanian independence
and demands the withdrawal of Soviet forces. Dr. Vytautas
Landsbergis is elected parliamentary chairman. April 17
Moscow imposes an economic blockade.
10
history
events
The national poem of Po-
land Pan Tadeusz (Lithu-
anian, Ponas Tadas) by
the 19th-century Roman-
ti c poet Adam Mi cki e-
wicz (Lithuanian, Adomas
Mi ckevi i us, pi ctured)
opens somewhat confus-
ingly with the words Oh
Lithuania, my fatherland!
The fact that the Polish
Mi cki ewi cz referred to
Lithuania as his fatherland serves as a good example as
to just how linguistically and ethnically complicated
and bewildering things are in this corner of the world. Con-
sequently it should therefore come as no great surprise
to learn that the Grand Duchy of Lithuania was ruled by
somebody known as both Vytautas (Lithuanian) and Witold
(Polish) whose capital was known as Trakai (Lithuanian),
Troki (Polish) and Trok (Yiddish) and who spoke Ruthe-
nian. Vytautas/Witold quite possibly had kugel (Yiddish)
and kugelis (Lithuanian) for lunch occasionally, and when
he died was he buried in Vilnius (Lithuanian) and Wilno (Pol-
ish). A cause for much heated debate in Lithuania, not least
among its more patriotic citizens, Vilnius In Your Pocket
apologises for any bad feeling caused by what some may
consider a misuse of some of the words used in this guide.
Theres not a lot we can do about it. Adam Mickiewicz
incidentally was born in whats now Belarus.
Historical names
1991 January 13 Soviet forces try unsuccessfully to storm
the parliamentary building in Vilnius. A large crowd ensures the
delegates are safe inside. However, during the Soviet bid to
reclaim the media by storming the Television Tower, 14 people
are killed. February 12 Iceland becomes the first country to
recognise an independent Lithuania. July 31 Seven border
guards and policemen are killed at the Medininkai border
checkpoint by Soviet Special Forces. August 21The Moscow
putsch collapses. Soviet troops leave the buildings theyve
occupied since January. Lenins statue is removed from
Vilnius Lukiki Aikt (Lukiks Square). A photograph of
the event appears on the cover of Issue N1 ofVilnius In Your
Pocket, published on May 1, 1992.August 29 Sweden
becomes the first Western country to open an embassy in
Vilnius. September 2 The USA recognises Lithuania, Latvia
and Estonia. September 17 All three Baltic countries are
re-admitted into the UN.

1992 February 8 Lithuanians participate under their own
flag at the Winter Olympics for the first time since 1928.

1993 June 25 Lithuanias pre-war currency, the litas, is
re-introduced. August 31 The last Russian soldier leaves
Lithuania. September 4-8 Pope John Paul II visits.

1994 December Vilnius Old Town joins the list of Unesco
World Heritage sites.
1998 January 4 Valdas Adamkus is elected president.
Adamkus, who fled Lithuania in 1944, was a senior official
at the Environmental Protection Agency in Chicago before
returning to Li thuania to run for president. December
21 Seimas abolishes the death penalty in response to
international pressure from the EU.

21st century
2001 June 23-27 The Dalai Lama visits Lithuania, visiting
various sites in Vilnius and Kaunas.
2002 February 2 The litas switches pegging from the US
dollar to the euro in readiness for EU accession, into which
the country is invited to join on October 9. November 22
Lithuania is invited to become a member of Nato. George
Bush visits Vilnius the following day, becoming the first US
president to visit the city.
2003 In the January 5 run-off election, president Valdas
Adamkus is voted out of office by the 46-year-old right wing
underdog Rolandas Paksas. May 10-11 A staggering 91%
of the 64% of the population who turned out to vote give a
resounding Yes to EU membership.

2004 Jan-April Impeachment hearings take place as
president Rolandas Paksas is found guilty of violating the
Lithuanian constitution and his oath as president in his
dealings with unsavoury Russian business partners. April
2 Lithuania becomes a fully-fledged member of Nato and
the EU on May 1. June 27 A 77-year-old Valdas Adamkus
is re-elected president. July Virgilijus Alekna, whose day
job is protecting the president, wins a gold medal at the
Athens Olympics in the discus. December 31 The Ignalina
Nuclear Power Plant says farewell to the first of its two
RBMK reactors.
2007 December 21 Lithuania joins the Schengen zone,
allowing borderless travel to and from other Schengen
countries. December 22 The Lithuanian Television and
Radio Commission bans broadcasting of the Voice of Rus-
sia radio station.
2008 June Lithuania outlaws the public display of Nazi and
Soviet symbols. August While most public attention is on
basketball, Edvinas Krungolcas and Andrejus Zadneprovskis
win silver and bronze respectively in the modern pentathlon
at the Beijing Olympics. The Lithuanian basketball team reach
the semi-finals but eventually come home empty handed.
2009 Lithuania celebrates 1,000 years since its name was
first mentioned in written texts. January 17 With 90Lt million
of mounting debts, the national airline, flyLAL, suspends
all services. Dalia Grybauskait, the so-called Iron Lady, is
inaugurated as Lithuanias first female president on July
12. December 31 Vilnius bows out of a disastrous year as
European Capital of Culture on the same day as the Ignalina
Nuclear Power Plant closes for good.
2010 Lithuania celebrates 20 years of independence from
the Soviet Union on March 11. In a sinister U-turn, on May 19
a court in Klaipda approves the public display of swastikas
arguing that they represent Lithuanias historical heritage, not
Nazi Germany. On June 26, at the age of 77, Lithuanias final First
Secretary under the Communists and its first post-independence
president dies after a short battle with cancer. Lithuania take
bronze medal in the World Basketball Championship in Turkey
after defeating Serbia 99-88 on September 12.
2011 Lithuania commemorates the centenary of the death of
the painter and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas iurlionis.
The country hosts the EuroBasket 2011 competition in
cities nationwide between August 31 and September 18.
Lithuania is defeated 67-65 by FYR Macedonia in the quarter
finals in Kaunas on September 15.
2012 The Lithuania Under-21 basketball team become the
European champions on July 22, narrowly beating France
50-49 in Ljubljana.
history
11
events
Until August 25
Kinas Po vaigdmis
Translating as Cinema Under the Stars and organised by
the citys Pasaka cinema, this summer-long event shows
a range of classic and art house films made over the last
hal f century. Screenings take place on Thursday, Friday
and Saturday evenings after 21:00 in the courtyard of the
Contemporary Arts Centre (see p.13). See www.kinopasaka.
lt for information on particular screenings.
Until September 9
Christopher Summer Festival 2012
Artistic Director Donatas Katkus is responsible for the now
well established annual Christopher Summer Festival, a
veritable feast of music featuring everything from orchestral
and organ works to the more obscure and unknown ends of
the musical spectrum such as Gypsy swing and Senegalese
drumming. Events take place in several locations around the
city. Full repetoire online at www.vilniusfestivals.lt.
August 1 - 30
Pasaulio Muzika Gyvai 12
A month-l ong cel ebrati on
of worl d musi c i ncl udi ng
Jamaicas Raymond Wright,
OqueStrada from Portugal,
Hungarys exoti c Romengo
and US saxophoni st Sax
Gordon among others. The
people who organise this and
other world music events in
Li thuania are doing a great
j ob at bri ngi ng a di versi ty
of cul tures and sounds to
Lithuania. The only problem is their website (www.gmgyvai.
lt), which somewhat ironically if not entirely typically is, with
the exception of a tiny amount of not particularly useful
information in English, in Lithuanian only. Try and get a
local to help.
August 3 - 4
Galapagai Roko Naktys 2012
The annual Rock Nights festival comes around again, taking
place on a fabulous island lake setting in the small town of
Zarasai close to the Latvian border some 150km north of
Vilnius. Expect a huge line-up of rock bands and performers
from all over Europe and further afield, plus a raft of other
associated frolics. Find out more on the festival website at
www.galapagai.lt.
August 4 - 29
Piano.lt Summer Festival
A short series of concerts at the excellent Piano.lt featuring
several works favouring the pianoforte as well as other
related events. See www.piano.lt for more information.
August 24 - 26
Mnuo Juodaragis
Another festival in Zarasai (see above), this one over two
days and celebrating contemporary folk and pagan music
from around 50 performers. The event will be joined by a
simultaneous hot-air balloon competition taking place in the
skies above. Read more at www.mjr.lt.
August 25
Velomarathon Vilnius 2012
Taking the idea of the traditional marathon and transplanting
it onto peddle-powered wheels, the third Velomarathon aids
to promote healthy living, family values, road safety and other
issues with the help of a number of bicycle-related events
including a few races throughout the day. The website at
www.velomaratonas.lt had basic information in English at
the time of going to press and promises to publish a full
schedule soon.
September
Vilnius City Fiesta
A completely free open-air event taking place in several
venues around the city, Vilnius City Fiesta features a huge
variety of live music events, plus film screenings, fashion
shows and much more besides. Exact dates are yet to be
confirmed. Keep an eye on www.vilniusfestivals.lt for further
information.
September 27 - October 7
Thi s annual and at ti mes
highly recommended festival
of contemporary theatre is
well worth checking out. All of
the necessary information in
English for anyone interested
in attending any of this years
events is available on the
festi val websi te at www.
sirenos.lt.
Sirenos12
Rodrigo Garcia play Death and Reincarnation as a
Cowboy, photo by Christian Berthelot
Galapagai Roko Naktys
12
events
Culture
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
September 11
Laurie Anderson
Arguably one of the top events of the year, the American
experimental composer, musician and performance artist
and wife of Lou Reed Laurie Anderson performs for one night
only inside the citys Lithuanian National Drama Theatre (see
p.14). Check online at www.teatras.lt or www.bilietupasaulis.
lt for further information.
September 22
Vilnius Fireworks 2012
Its a bit daft billing yourself as an international event as
Vilnius Fireworks 2012 does when all you can offer on your
website is a few words in Lithuanian. From past experience
however we can confirm that the event will be infinitely more
satisfying that the dreadful promotion. The event takes place
in Vingis Park (see p.65), after dark we assume.
October
Gaida 2012
One of the highlights of Vilnius cul tural calendar is the
annual Gaida contemporary music festi val. Taking place
in several locations around the ci ty, the festi val was still
in the process of being organised at the time of going
to press, so l i ttl e i nformati on i s currentl y avai l abl e.
The websi te at www.vilniusfesti vals.l t has a link to the
festi val in English which contains some extremel y useful
and helpful background information as well as a list of
confirmed per formances.
October 11 - 14
Vilnius Jazz
The 25th Vilnius Jazz festi val hi ts town again in October
for four days of contemporary and experi mental j azz
concer ts and rel ated acti vi ti es. Founded duri ng the
earl y days of perestroika, the festi val has grown i nto
one of the most highl y regarded cul tural events of the
year in the country, al though the experts still maintain
that Kaunas international jazz fasti val is better. Have
a look at the festi val websi te at www.vilniusjazz.l t and
judge for yoursel f.
November 7
Juanes Unplugged
Born Juan Esteban Aristizbal Vsquez in 1972 and better
known as Juanes, the Colombian musician and former heavy
metal star takes to the stage inside Vilnius Siemens Arena
(see p.13) on November 7 for a night of accoustic music
composed by the man himself and others. Tune into www.
siemensarena.lt for further information.
November 11
BI-2
The legendary MTV Russian Music Awards-winning Russian
rock band who confusingly started li fe in Minsk, Belarus
perform inside the citys Forum Palace on November 11.
See www.bilietai.lt for more.
November 14 - 18
Vilnius Mama Jazz
Vilnius Mama Jazz has been going for several years now
and offers a slightly wider spectrum than the festival above.
Keep an eye on www.vilniusmamajazz.lt to see how things
progress.
-JUIVBOJBO"SU.VTFVN
0QFO
Tuesday-SaIurday 11 am- pm, Sunday 12 pm-5 pm
Closes one hour earlIer on Ihe eve of naIIonal holIdays
Closed on Monday and naIIonal holIdays
*OGPSNBUJPO
Tel. +370 5 212 4258; www.ldm.lI; www. muzIejaI.lI
LIIhuanIan ArI (1Ih-19Ih c.)
ExposIIIon of
hodkevIIus Palace C
ClassIcIsI InIerIors of Ihe
VILNIUS PICTURE GALLERY
4 Didzioji St., Vilnius
NaIIonal and
InIernaIIonal
ExhIbIIIons
events
13
Culture
Not surprisingly for a capital city theres a lot of culture to
be had in Vilnius including some cracking classical music,
a bit of worthy contemporary art and the occasional faded
Western rock star.
Arts & Crafts
Amat Gildija B-4, Prancikon 6, tel. (+370) 5 212
05 20, www.amatugildija.lt. The ceramic artist Mindaugas
Rutkauskas is almost completel y blind yet manages to pro-
duce some great ceramics from classic earthenware crockery
to complete ceramic stoves. He shares this workshop with
several other artists. Feel free to have a look around. Most
of the work on display is for sale. Also at S. Skapo 3 - 34.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Jonas Bugailikis Art Studio C-5, Auros Vart 17-
10, tel. (+370) 652 366 13. A local mini-celebrity knocking
out all manner of fabulous wooden eccentricities based on a
combination of traditional Lithuanian folk art and the contents
of a very unique mind. Q By appointment onl y. J
Meno Nia A-3, J. Basanaviiaus 1/13, tel. (+370) 5
231 38 11, www.menonisa.lt. Art to hang on your body
as opposed to your wall, this combined gallery and workshop
presents some of the best examples of the work of Lithua-
nian goldsmiths. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. J
Molio Laum A-4/5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 699
424 56, www.ceramics.w3.lt. The ancient art of black
ceramics brought to life inside this intriguing little hands-on
gallery. Buy examples of the craft or attend one of their regular
workshops. QOpen 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Tautodailininko Dirbtuv G-4, J. Basanaviiaus 29, tel.
(+370) 687 906 50, www.klaidaspapercuts.lt. Folk artist
Klaidas Navickas works as a lawyer during the day and creates
some exquisite works of art using just a scalpel and piece of
paper in his spare time. Known in Lithuanian as karpiniai,
this old craft, which has been used to decorate homes dur-
ing special celebrations for centuries, is available for sale, or
with patience and a steady hand you can learn how to do it
yourself. Q Open 17:00 - 20:00, Fri 16:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun
call in advance.
Uupio Galerija D-3, Uupio 3-1, tel. (+370) 5 231 23
18, www.uzupiogalerija.lt. A tiny gallery dealing in exclusive
metal and enamel works from a range of Lithuanian artists. A
combined workshop and gallery, youll usuall y find somebody
working there, wholl be onl y too pleased to explain what
theyre up to. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. JA
Uupio Kalvysts Galerija - Muziejus I-4, Uupio 26,
tel. (+370) 687 512 55, www.vilniauskalviai.lt. A small
working gallery dedicated to the art of the blacksmith. Watch
people at work, buy something as a unique gift or souvenir or
ask about their regular workshops. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30,
Sat 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Cinemas
Films are usually shown in their original language with
Lithuanian subtitles.
Forum Cinemas Vingis G-4, Savanori 7, tel. 1567,
www.forumcinemas.lt. Mostl y popular Holl ywood films
inside a dedicated mul tiplex close to the city centre. Also at
Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 10:30 - 22:00.
Multikino H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 219 53 78,
www.multikino.lt. Holl ywood blockbusters inside a large
shopping centre. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Pasaka B-3, v. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 261 15 16,
www.kinopasaka.lt. A compact Old Town cinema special-
ising in predominantl y independent and/or arthouse films
from a wide range of directors including Woody Allen and the
interesting Lithuanian film maker Janina Lapinskait. J
Skalvija H-3, A. Gotauto 2/15, tel. (+370) 5 261 05
05, www.skalvija.lt. The best place in the city for arthouse
and underground cinema and meeting people who like it in
the attached caf-bar. J
Concert halls
Lithuanian Music & Theatre Academy (Lietuvos
Muzikos ir Teatro Akademija) G-3, Gedimino 42, tel.
(+370) 5 261 26 91, www.lmta.lt. The place to come and
see performances by the cream of the countrys next genera-
tion of professional musicians. Concerts including established
performers and conductors from Lithuania and abroad also
take place here from time to time. J
Lithuanian National Philharmonic (Lietuvos
Nacionalin Filharmonija) C-5, Auros Vart 5, tel.
(+370) 5 266 52 33, www.nationalphilharmonic.eu.
Featuring a concert hall and a smaller chamber hall, the
Lithuanian National Symphony Orchestra was established in
1940. Concerts are performed by a range of ensembles in-
cluding the aforementioned orchestra as well as the iurlionis
String Quartet and the chamber ensemble Musica Humana
to name but a few. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon. JA
Piano.lt B-4, Trak 9/1 (entrance on Kdaini), tel.
(+370) 5 203 28 91, www.piano.lt. Hidden away down an
Old Town backstreet, this small concert hall arranges concerts
of many types including classical and jazz. J
Pramog Arena E-2, uolyno 9, tel. (+370) 5 242 44
44, www.pramoguarena.lt. A large ice-skating rink on the
outskirts of the city that also hosts the occasional concert.
Siemens Arena H-1, Ozo 14, tel. 1588, www.siemen-
sarena.lt. The quintessential all-purpose arena staging
everything from international basketball matches to big name
rock concerts. A
St. Catherines Church (v. Kotrynos Banyia)
B-3, Vilniaus 30, tel. (+370) 5 262 04 21, www.kultura.
lt. A city-owned concert space inside a magnificent, con-
verted 18th-century Baroque church. Concerts are varied
and often very good indeed. J
kio Banko Teatro Arena I-3, Olimpiei 3, tel. (+370)
683 773 57, www.teatroarena.lt. The main venue for the
OKT theatre company (see Theatres), this large place on the
edge of town is also a concert venue among other things.
Vilnius Congress Hall (Vilniaus Kongres Rmai) B-1,
Vilniaus 6/14, tel. (+370) 5 261 88 28, www.lvso.lt. Home
to the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra, this city-centre
venue features some fine acoustics and organises everything
from serious classical concerts to shows for children. Q Box office
open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Galleries
Academy (Akademija) C-3, Pilies 44/2, tel. (+370)
5 261 20 94, www.vda.lt. The gallery of the Vilnius Art
Academy hosts all manner of contemporary shows by artists
from home and abroad and is al ways worth a look inside.
Q Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J
Contemporary Arts Centre (iuolaikinio Meno
Centras) C-4, Vokiei 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 45,
www.cac.lt. Vilnius very own monstrous carbuncle on the
face of an old friend, this 1968 concrete masterpiece con-
ceals one of the countrys leading galleries for both Lithuanian
and international contemporary art. Surplus to the 2,400
square metres of exhibition space, the Contemporary Arts
Centre also organises conferences and lectures, features a
superb reading room and hosts a rather good bar. QOpen
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4Lt. JU
14
Culture
Culture
Jewelry Art Studio C-4, Stikli 4, tel. (+370) 615 899
29. A tiny gallery close to the Town Hall in the centre of Old
Town selling a range of Lithuanian-produced contemporary
arts and crafts including jewellery from some of the top names
in the country, paintings and graphic art. QOpen , Tue, Wed,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
TaDas F-3, Kstuio 51, tel. (+370) 685 555 25, www.
gutauskas.lt. The weird and occasionally wonderful world of
the Lithuanian artist Tadas Gutauskas, this gallery is given
over entirel y to his painting, sculpture and other media.
Bordering on the nave and childlike, Gutauskas work is
colourful to say the least and all of it is for sale. Q Open by
appointment onl y.
Terra Recognita C-3, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 612 444 79.
An interesting gallery representing the work of the contempo-
rary and conceptual Lithuanian artist Saulius Vaitieknas. Much
of his work is both fun and thought provoking and is generally
available for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. J
Titanikas D-2, Maironio 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 36,
www.titanikas.com. A series of exhibition halls owned and
curated by the neighbouring Vilnius Art Academy, exhibitions
run the gamut from student shows to serious work from home
and abroad in just about every conceivable medium. QOpen
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Uupio Meno Inkubatorius (Uupis Art Incubator)
D-3, Uupio 2, tel. (+370) 611 226 75, www.umi.lt. A
tumbledown house on the riverbank, brightly painted and with
a few works in the garden, this is Uupis unofficial Ministry of
Culture as well as a lively gallery space, workshop and the
home of Uupio Koliaai, the only place in the city to buy official
Uupis Republic memorabilia, souvenirs, local artwork, a copy
of the Constitution and much more. Exhibitions include works
from a wide range of contributors including established local
artists, school children and the occasional American professor
of mathematics. Follow the riverbank north from Uupio Kavin.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. At
the time of going to press the building was closed for reconstruc-
tion. Work is expected to continue until December although the
gallery should be open again in August. J
Vartai B-3, Vilniaus 39 (Vilniaus Mokytoj Namai), tel.
(+370) 5 212 29 49, www.galerijavartai.lt. Arguably the
best and most influential contemporary gallery in the country. Find
works in all media by the top Lithuanian artists working in their
fields. Vartai also organises exhibitions by artists from abroad.
Recommended. Q Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun, Mon. The gallery will be closed during August. J
Znad Wilii C-3, Iganytojo 2/4, tel. (+370) 5 212 30 20,
http://znadwiliiwilno.lt. A Polish art gallery displaying and
selling paintings, books and the Polish-language newspaper
of the same name. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA
Independent cul tural centres
Men Fabrikas G-5, vitrigailos 29, info@menufab-
rikas.lt. An independent, non-profit cul tural centre based
inside a fabulous old factory providing creative opportuni-
ties, outlets and events for the community including parties,
fashion shows, educational seminars, film screenings and
much more. Also known as Loftas (The Loft), find them on
Facebook (currentl y in Lithuanian onl y) for more information
and details on upcoming events. Q Working hours depend
on repertoire. Entrance 15 - 50Lt.
Opera & Ballet
Lithuanian National Opera & Ballet Theatre (Lietu-
vos Nacionalinis Operos ir Baleto Teatras) H-3, A.
Vienuolio 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 27, www.opera.lt. A
stunning construction opened in 1974 and offering the whole
range of works. Worth a look inside even if you dont plan on
attending anything. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:30, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun (Summer time). JA
Photography
Prospekto Galerija G-3, Gedimino 43, tel. (+370)
5 261 83 38, www.photography.lt. Owned and run by
the Lithuanian Photographers Union, Prospekto Galerija is
a hit and miss affair but reall y worth the effort just in case.
Exhibi tions range from the sublime to the awful, often let
down partiall y by the artists themsel ves who submit badl y
presented work thats often lit with no thought to the work.
Theres also a small shop where you can buy books and
postcards featuring the work of many famous and obscure
Lithuanian art, news and documentary photographers past
and present. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun.
Vilniaus Fotografijos Galerija C-4, Stikli 4 (entrance
from Didioji 19), tel. (+370) 618 375 20, www.photogra-
phy.lt. Situated above a picture-framing shop that you need to
enter in order to get to the gallery, this small and rather basic affair,
also the property of the Lithuanian Photographers Union, puts
on a number of shows throughout the year, some of which are
well worth attending. Find it tucked away in a courtyard. QOpen
12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Theatres
Almost all performances are in Lithuanian or Russian.
Some theatres provide occasional simultaneous transla-
tion.
Ar ts Printing House (Men Spaustuv) D-2,
iltadario 6, tel. (+370) 5 204 08 32, www.menuspaus-
tuve.lt. Housed inside a former tsarist-era printing house this
intriguing centre features two theatre halls, a place to collect
and spread ideas and rehearsal rooms for various performers.
Check the website for a full list of their activities. J
Domino Theatre (Domino Teatras) G-4, Savanori 7
(Forum Cinemas Vingis), tel. (+370) 656 863 83, www.
dominoteatras.lt. The brainchild of a small collecti ve of
like-minded local thespians, this very Lithuanian affair puts
on shows inside a cinema. Q Box office open 11:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun
an hour before the performance (June - August).
Ll Puppet Theatre (Vilniaus Teatras Ll) C-4,
Arkli 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 86 78, www.teatraslele.lt. This
inspired puppet theatre for children of all ages has been charming
audiences in Vilnius since the company was founded way back in
1958. Q Box office open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J
Lithuanian National Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Na-
cionalinis Dramos Teatras) B-2, Gedimino 4, tel. (+370)
618 757 80, www.teatras.lt. Pretty much what it says it is, the
Lithuanian National Drama Theatre promotes theatre from home
and abroad and stages it in two venues inside the same building.
Look for the three muses guarding the main entrance. Q Box
office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. J
Lithuanian Russian Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Rus
Dramos Teatras) H-4, J. Basanaviiaus 13, tel. (+370)
5 262 05 52, www.rusudrama.lt. The onl y professional
theatre in the country staging works exclusivel y in the Rus-
sian language, this fine old building also hosts other events
including part of the annual Vilnius Jazz Festival. Q Box office
open 10:45 - 18:30, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Meno Fortas D-2, Bernardin 8/8, tel. (+370) 5 268
58 16, www.menofortas.lt. An Old Town theatre given over
entirely to the visionary antics of the infamous Lithuanian the-
atrical director Eimuntas Nekroius. Works include everything
from Shakespeare to original works. J
Culture
15
Culture
August
Concert
28 19:00 Concert of the Gewandhaus
Orchestra
September
Opera
29 18:30 LElisir dAmore G. Donizetti.
Operetta
28 18:30 Wiener Blut J. Strauss.
Ballet
15 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.
21 18:30 The Blue Danube J. Strauss.
26 18:30 Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky.
For Children
30 12:00 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.
October
Opera
4 18:30 Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky.
10 18:30 Carmen G. Bizet.
13 18:30 La Traviata G. Verdi.
18 18:30 Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky.
20 18:30 Otello G. Verdi.
25 18:30 Boris Godunov M. Musorgskis.
26 18:30 Boris Godunov M. Musorgskis.
Ballet
3 18:30 Zorba the Greek M. Theodarakis.
12 18:30 Giselle A. Adam.
17 18:30 Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky.
19 18:30 Don Quixote L. A. Minkus.
27 18:30 La Bayadre L. A. Minkus.
30 18:30 The Fountain Of Bakhchisarai
National Academic Bolshoi Ballet
Theatre of the Republic of Belarus
Concert
6 19:00 Anniversary Concert of E.
Kaniava
For Children
6 12:00 Burattino J. Gaiauskas.
7 12:00 Snow White & The Seven Dwarfs
B. Pawlowski.
21 12:00 Snow White And The Seven
Dwarfs B. Pawlowski.
27 12:00 Burattino J. Gaiauskas.
November
Opera
3 18:30 Otello G. Verdi.
8 18:30 La Traviata G. Verdi.
16 18:30 The Marriage of Figaro W. A.
Mozart.
17 18:30 The Marriage of Figaro W. A.
Mozart.
22 18:30 Carmen G. Bizet.
29 18:30 La Juive J. F. Halevy.
Operetta
10 18:30 The Merry Widow F. Lehr.
24 18:30 Wiener Blut J. Strauss.
Opera & Ballet Opera & Ballet continued
Ballet
2 18:30 Giselle A. Adam.
9 18:30 Barbora Radvilait S. Vaininas,
A. Malcys, H. M. Grecki and other
composers.
28 18:30 La Bayadre L. A. Minkus.
30 18:30 The Nutcracker P. Tchaikovsky.
For Children
4 12:00 The Tiny Lingonberry J.
Tamulionis.
11 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofjev.
18 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofjev.
Performances take place at the Lithuanian National
Opera and Ballet Theatre (see p. 14). More info at www.
opera.lt
National Youth Theatre (Valstybinis Jaunimo Teat-
ras) C-4, Arkli 5, tel. (+370) 5 261 61 26, www.jauni-
moteatras.lt. Founded in 1966 the National Youth Theatre
stages works of all kinds from the classics to experimental to
innovative reworkings of original stories. Q Box office open
11:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. J
OKT/Vilnius City Theatre (OKT/Vilniaus Miesto
Teatras) B-4, Amenos 8, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 99,
www.okt.lt. Dedicated to modern theatre and modern
interpretations of the classics. J
Vilnius Old Town Theatre (Vilniaus Senamiesio
Teatras) A-5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 5 213 40
64, www.senamiescioteatras.lt. Founded during the final
days of the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1989 the theatre
specialises in recreating the public-spirited theatre of the 16th
and 17th centuries. With a varied repertoire, the company
performs almost exclusivel y in public outdoor spaces.
Vilnius Small State Theatre (Valstybinis Vilniaus
Maasis Teatras) A-1, Gedimino 22, tel. (+370) 5
249 98 69, www.vmt.lt. Onl y finding a permanent home
in 2005, this interesting theatre company who stage a wide
range of predominantly contemporary works are based inside
a glorious building in the city centre. Q Box office open 11:00 -
15:00, 16:00 - 18:30. Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J
Cul tural centres
American Center B-4, Akmen 7, tel. (+370) 5 266
53 00, vilnius.usembassy.gov. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00,
Tue 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
British Council A-2, Vilniaus 31, tel. (+370) 5 210 04
28, www.britishcouncil.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. J
Danish Cultural Institute B-3, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370)
5 212 24 12, www.dki.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
French Institute C-3, Didioji 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96
96, www.institutfrancais-lituanie.com. QOpen 09:00 -
17:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Library open 13:30
- 18:30 Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
Goethe Institute B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 5 231
44 33, www.goethe.de/vilnius. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Italian Cultural Institute C-3, Universiteto 4, tel.
(+370) 5 261 10 76, www.iicvilnius.esteri.it. Q Open
10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
16
where to stay
where to stay
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child-friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendl y
K Restaurant J Old town location
D Sauna C Swimming pool
I Fireplace W Wifi
Symbol key
Vilnius provides a wide selection of accommodation
options in all parts of the city. Prices remain lower than in
Western Europe, sometimes considerably lower, meaning
staying right in the centre is always an option. Booking a
room in advance is recommended, especially so during
the summer.
Cream of the crop
Kempinski Hotel Cathedral Square C-2, Universiteto
14/2, tel. (+370) 5 220 11 00, fax (+370) 5 220 11 20,
reservations.vilnius@kempinski.com, www.kempinski.
com/vilnius. Finally due to open in September 2012, the long
awaited arrival of Vilnius very own Kempinski hotel has defi-
nitely been worth the wait. Located in an unbeatable location
opposite the Cathedral, this vast historical building has been
fully renovated to the highest possible standards. Featuring a
wide range of rooms from standards through to an awe-inspiring
presidential suite, all with free wireless internet, minibars, in-
teractive televisions and much more besides, if you can afford
to stay here then we recommend that you do. Extras include a
wellness and spa centre, impressive business and conference
facilities, a boutique and even a ballroom. First class indeed.
Q96 rooms (11 singles 200 - 260, 72 doubles 220 - 330,
12 suites 490 - 3,500, 1 presidential suite 490 - 3,500).
PTJHARUIFKDCW hhhhh
Radisson Blu Astorija C-4, Didioji 35/2, tel. (+370)
5 212 01 10, fax (+370) 5 212 17 62, sales.vilnius@
radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius.
The name, building and location say it all, as indeed does
the list of the great and the good who choose to stay here
when in town. A beautiful collection of rooms and sui tes
are on offer, some with spectacular views of Old Town. Top
notch accommodation with all the trimmings, plus business
facilities, swimming pool, express laundry, a French restaurant
and a bar selling some of the freshest local beer in the city.
Q119 rooms (16 singles 99 - 129, 99 doubles 109 - 229,
4 suites 400 - 750). PJHARUFKDXCW
hhhhh
Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius C-5, Subaiaus 2, tel.
(+370) 5 255 33 55, fax (+370) 5 255 33 11, hotel@ra-
madavilnius.lt, www.ramadavilnius.lt. Delicious opulence
meets high standards of modernity. As youd expect from a
five-star hotel, the rooms are nothing short of spectacular,
featuring classic antique designs mixed together with the
latest technology such as flat screen televisions, DVD players
and voicemail. Theres also a wellness centre, conference
facili ties and even an umbrella in every room. A celebri ty
favourite, past guests include Enrique Iglesias, Sting, Jean
Michel Jarre, Chris Rea and Limp Bizkit. Q55 rooms (9 singles
117, 35 doubles 138, 9 suites 228, 2 apartments 348).
PTJHAR6UIFLKDXW hhhhh
Relais & Chateaux Stikliai Hotel C-3, Gaono 7, tel.
(+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370) 5 212 38 70, sales@
stikliaihotel.lt, www.stikliaihotel.lt. Occupying a sumptu-
ous building with Gothic and Baroque elements, the Stikliai
is where millionaires have been taking themsel ves for a very
long time indeed. Old fashioned in most senses of the term,
the full y air-condi tioned rooms come wi th such treats as
satellite and cable television, internet, mini bars and Turkish
baths in the best suites. Sauna, pool, conference facilities and
an equall y ostentatious restaurant can also be found here. It
doesnt come much better than this. Q43 rooms (11 singles
158, 17 doubles 190 - 220, 14 suites 350 - 500, 1 apart-
ment 1,100). PJHAR6UIFLKDXCW
hhhhh
The Narutis Hotel - Preferred Boutique C-3, Pilies
24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax (+370) 5 262 28 82,
reservations@narutis.com, www.narutis.com. Totall y
gorgeous in every conceivable way, room interiors include
everything from original 16th-century frescoes and wooden
beams to Jacuzzis in the sui tes. Decorated wi th the ul ti-
mate in style and panache, theres no need to roll off a list
of everything in the rooms because theyve reall y got it all.
Add to that a location to die for, impeccable service, a fine
restaurant and a magical spa and, if you can afford it, youd
be a nutter to stay anywhere else. Q53 rooms (8 singles
99 - 170, 24 doubles 109 - 210, 14 suites 129 - 260,
2 apartments 400 - 900, 7 junior sui tes 156 - 900).
PTJHAR6UKDXCW hhhhh
Upmarket
Amberton Hotel B-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus 1, tel.
(+370) 5 210 74 61, fax (+370) 5 210 74 60, vilnius@
amberton.lt, www.ambertonhotels.com. It could be made
of damp straw and the restaurant could serve nothing but cab-
bage and youd still probably book a room once you saw the
view. Not that it is made of damp straw we should point out, and
of course the restaurants pretty good too. Expect free internet
in the rooms, minibars and all mod cons, good mannered staff
and two of the best restaurants in the city next door in fact. An
absolute winner for both facilities and location. Q 96 rooms
(240 -700Lt). PJHARULKXW hhhh
Artis Centrum Hotels B-2, Liejyklos 11/23, tel.
(+370) 5 266 03 66, fax (+370) 5 266 03 77, artis@
centrumhotels.com, www.centrumhotels.com. Perfectly
located between Old Town and Gedimino, this large white
birthday cake-looking hotel has been catering to a better
class of guest for years. Surplus to the marvellous views from
the upper front rooms are air-conditioning throughout, Pay
TV, internet access and for the nervous, peepholes in all the
doors. Good for heal thy-minded visitors, the hotel also man-
ages to pack in a gym and swimming pool. Q108 rooms (12
singles 87 - 139, 87 doubles 97 - 159, 9 suites 115 - 209).
PJHARUFLKDXCW hhhh
Atrium C-3, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77 77, fax
(+370) 5 210 77 70, hotel@atrium.lt, www.atrium.lt.
One of the favourite choices of visiting big-wigs and other
VIPs, Atrium blends together the antiqui ties of Old Town
with the very best of modern hotel accommodation to great
effect. Complete wi th minibars, heated bathroom floors
and everything else youd expect when handing over this
much money in return for a bed for the night, extras include
conference facili ties, sauna, a cracking li ttle Argentinean
restaurant and arguabl y the best location in Vilnius. Q30
rooms (3 singles 65 - 89, 17 doubles 72 - 119, 6 triples
92 - 125, 5 suites 95 - 139, 5 apartments 105 - 160).
PJHA6ULKDW hhhh
where to stay
17
where to stay
Best Western Vilnius H-2, Konstitucijos 14, tel.
(+370) 5 273 95 95, fax (+370) 5 273 95 00, office@
vilniushotel.eu, www.vilniushotel.eu. Located in the
hear t of the ci tys main business distri ct just nor th of
the ri ver, the four-star Best Western Vilnius is accordingl y
geared towards business travellers al though theres no
reason why anybody else cant stay there ei ther. A weal th
of tastefull y decorated rooms plus a gorgeous apartment
wi th i ts own sauna are available, all coming wi th wireless
internet, satelli te tel evision, minibars and other treats.
A taxi to Old Town costs less than 10Lt. Q114 rooms
(12 singles 61 - 130, 93 doubles 69 - 145, 4 triples
89 - 165, 4 sui tes 195 - 220, 1 apartment 232 - 260).
PHA6UFLKDXCW hhhh
Congress H-3, Vilniaus 2/15, tel. (+370) 5 269 19
19, fax (+370) 5 251 42 80, info@congress.lt, www.
congress.lt. I f this hotel was a person, i t would proudl y
strut about and puff its chest out. And rightl y so. Everything
has a neat, tidy confidence about it, and even if youre in a
standard room, the place has an elegant yet business-class
feel about it. We also like the free wireless internet. After a
good nights rest youll be ready to take on the town, and
will find yourself convenientl y located mid-way between Old
Town and the new business district north of the river. Q80
rooms (21 singles 240Lt, 27 doubles 280Lt, 8 triples 360Lt,
3 sui tes 560Lt, 1 apartment 1,000Lt, 3 de-luxe 440Lt).
PJHARFLKDW hhhh
Conti B-5, Raugyklos 7/2, tel. (+370) 5 251 41 11,
fax (+370) 5 251 41 00, info@contihotel.lt, www.
contihotel.lt. A good choice of singles, doubles, business
class rooms, suites and apartments inside a well located
hotel boasting a splendid jumble of old and new. Rooms
come with the absolute minimum of internet connections,
satellite television and minibars with add-ons including such
opulence as a Jacuzzi in the luxury room and apartments.
The lobby cafs a nice place for quiet drink, plus the up-
per floors provide some fabulous views of the ci ty. Q88
rooms (17 singles 70, 68 doubles 76, 1 sui te 201, 2
apar tments 275). PJHARUFLKDXW
hhhh
Crowne Plaza Vilnius F-4, M. K. iurlionio 84, tel.
(+370) 5 274 34 00, fax (+370) 5 274 34 11, info@
cpvilnius.com, www.cpvilnius.com. The onl y remaining
features of Inturists flagship Hotel Friendship are the founda-
tions, one or two arty internal elements and the views, the
latter being some of the greenest and most pleasant in the
city. Plonked west of the centre on the edge of one of the
capitals finest parks, this business class box is a favourite
among professionals travelling individuall y or as part of a
group who are there to use the fine conference facilities. The
16th-floor restaurant-bar offers one of the prettiest places
to get plastered in Lithuania. Q108 rooms (29 singles 60
- 80, 19 doubles 60 - 80, 19 triples 70 - 90, 38 suites
80 - 100, 3 apartments 100 - 140). PHAR6U
FLKDXCW hhhh
Dvaras B-1, Tilto 3-1, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 70, fax
(+370) 5 261 87 83, hotel@dvaras.lt, www.dvaras.lt.
Celebrating the former manor house status of the building
its located in, Dvaras is a small hotel with grand ideas, no-
ticeable in everything from the dcor to the price. Just eight
rooms, from singles to luxury suites, are on offer, all given an
old world treatment and all coming with lifes little luxuries.
Theres a couple of fancy restaurants as well, all of it pack-
aged together just a two-minute walk from the Cathedral. Q8
rooms (3 singles 75, 3 doubles 89, 2 suites 129 - 140).
PJHARLKW hhhh
Europa Royale Vilnius C-5, Auros Vart 6, tel.
(+370) 5 266 07 70, fax (+370) 5 261 20 00, vilnius@
europaroyale.com, www.EuropaRoyale.com. The Europa
chains flagship Vilnius hotel continues to offer high standards
of service in an admirable Old Town location thats hard to
beat. The choice of individual rooms and suites is impressive,
with even the most basic featuring mini bars, free wireless
internet, air-condi tioning and satelli te television. Also find
meeting rooms, international press and the fabulous Med-
ininkai restaurant. One of the better places to stay in town if
you can afford it. Q 51 rooms (2 singles 75 - 119, 33 doubles
75 - 124, 11 suites 90 - 139, 5 apartments 149 - 240).
PJHAR6ULKW hhhh
Grotthuss B-5, Ligonins 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22,
fax (+370) 5 266 03 23, info@grotthusshotel.com,
www.grotthusshotel.com. This self-proclaimed aristocratic
boutique hotel in a quiet Old Town street contains 20 rooms
and suites complete with Italian furniture, original art on the
walls, wireless internet, minibars and satelli te television.
Favoured by well-heeled visitors who like the personal touch,
the hotel also features an in-house gourmet restaurant and
state of the art business facilities. Q20 rooms (5 singles
376Lt, 3 suites 790 - 860Lt, 12 superior doubles 550 - 620Lt).
JHARLKXW hhhh
This guide uses the star system as defined by the
Lithuanian Department of Tourism, in which stars are
awarded for amenities offered, and dont necessarily
reflect the quality of those amenities or the standard
of service provided.
Star spangled banter
18
where to stay
where to stay
Holiday Inn H-3, eimyniki 1, tel. (+370) 5 210 30
00, fax (+370) 5 210 30 01, holiday-inn@ibc.lt, www.
holidayinnvilnius.lt. Hugel y popular with visiting Americans
who like the assurance of something theyve slept in before,
this world classics Vilnius incarnation is located just north of
the river close to the business district. Swish and decidedl y
modern, the rooms all have that typical Holiday Inn feel, plus
theres an excellent little bar at street level complete with
complimentary press where its possible to spend an entire
evening watching the world go by and drinking the night away
on your companys expense account. A taxi ride to Old Town
is about 15Lt during the day. Q134 rooms (92 doubles 79,
41 suites 109, 1 apartment 280). PHARUFLK
DXW hhhh
Mabre Residence D-3, Maironio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212
20 87, fax (+370) 5 212 22 40, mabre@mabre.lt, www.
mabre.lt. Found inside a fabulous former monastery, some of
it dating back as far as the 17th century, this swanky hotel can
be found on the border of Old Town and Uupis inside a lovel y
quiet courtyard. Geared towards all types of traveller with a
heal thy bank account, rooms veer from more than adequate
singles to the wonderful (and surprisingl y affordable) presi-
dential suite. Surplus to the rooms are all manner of treats,
from the recommended sauna and small pool to the in-house
steak restaurant. Q40 rooms (3 singles 408Lt, 27 doubles
516 - 576Lt, 8 suites 696Lt, 2 apartments 936 - 992Lt).
PJHAR6ULKDXCW hhhh
Neringa A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 88, fax
(+370) 5 212 22 99, book@neringahotel.com, www.
neringahotel.com. The superb Neringa hotel stands out
as one of the city centres major business-class hotels. The
Scandinavian-styled rooms come in both standard and superior
classes, offering good value whilst still managing to provide eve-
rything the modern business traveller requires. Extras include a
selection of international newspapers and magazines, a small
pool and the fabulous Neringa restaurant complete with original
Soviet frescoes dating from 1959. Q60 rooms (22 singles
64 - 104, 34 doubles 64 - 114, 4 apartments 94 - 134).
PJHAR6ULKDXW hhhh
Novotel Vilnius Centre B-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 5
266 62 00, fax (+370) 5 266 62 01, h5209@accor.com,
www.novotel.com. Great comfort and four-star luxury from
the international Novotel chain inside a large modern building
in the heart of the city. Choices of rooms include Superior
and Executive class as well as a handful of suites, all of them
light and spacious, with many featuring magnificent Old Town
views. Facilities inside the rooms all include free internet and
a number of other excellent facilities. The hotel also features
a good restaurant, bar, sauna, fitness centre and business
options in a total of seven rooms complete with full services.
Q159 rooms (88 singles 79 - 188, 44 doubles 91 - 200, 3
suites 221, 20 executive 111 - 220, 4 handicap 79 - 200).
PTJHA6UFKDXW hhhh
Park Villa Vaidiluts 6a, tel. (+370) 5 211 33 56, fax
(+370) 5 211 33 57, info@parkvilla.lt, www.parkvilla.
lt. Located in almost certainl y the best location for a hotel
in Vilnius, Park Villa sits among pine trees on the edge of a
river by a popular sandy beach. In the exclusive Valakampiai
district, the hotel features rooms in several categories from
the excellent value singles through to the Deluxe complete
with whirlpool and a jolly super view of the river. Theres also a
decent in-house restaurant and another restaurant next door.
A 15-minute drive from the city centre, youll need a map to
find it as signposts simpl y dont exist. Q29 rooms (7 singles
170 - 360Lt, 18 doubles 200 - 220Lt, 3 triples 210 - 340Lt, 1
suite 360Lt). PTHA6LKDCW hhhh
Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva H-3, Konstitucijos 20,
tel. (+370) 5 272 62 72, fax (+370) 5 272 62 70, info.
lietuva.vilnius@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.
com/lietuvahotel-vilnius. The ci tys flagship 80s Soviet
hotel received an enormous renovation several years ago
and now boasts the best of two worlds. Located on the north
bank of the Neris in the heart of the main business district,
this 22-floor beauty is quality business class accommoda-
tion indeed. The rooms are bright and fresh, theres a vast
conference capacity space, the in-house restaurant is very
good indeed and the bar on the top should be on everybodys
list of places to visit regardless of whether theyre staying
in the building or not. Brilliant. Q 291 rooms (79 - 500).
POTHARUFLKDXW hhhh
arnas I-3, Raitinink 4, tel. (+370) 5 272 38 88,
fax (+370) 5 272 43 55, info@hotelsarunas.lt, www.
hotelsarunas.lt. A good value business class hotel close
to the centre of things and just north of the citys emerging
business district, complete with all of the necessary add-ons
for todays demanding traveller such as satellite television,
minibar, air conditioning and free wireless internet. Everything
is spotlessl y clean, and the numerous perks include good
conference facili ties, sauna, fi tness centre and a super
restaurant-bar good for personal dining or group hire. For
the price, this is by far one of the best hotels in its category.
Q54 rooms (29 singles 250 - 270Lt, 18 doubles 270 -
290Lt, 5 suites 300 - 320Lt, 2 apartments 350 - 600Lt).
PHAR6UFLKDW hhhh
Shakespeare Boutique Hotel D-2, Bernardin 8/8,
tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, fax (+370) 5 266 58 86,
info@shakespeare.lt, www.shakespeare.lt. To book a
room, or not to book a room, that is the question. Dickens,
Joyce, Shakespeare of course and Tolstoy all have rooms
named after them in this li terary-themed hotel in one of
the quietest and nicest streets in Old Town. Surplus to
the excellent facili ties in the rooms, guests all get a free
present on arri val, plus theres a rather good restaurant
and a refreshingl y peaceful and recommended bar to
boot. Q31 rooms (8 singl es 360Lt, 13 doubl es 560 -
600Lt, 8 sui tes 640 - 680Lt, 2 apartments 720 - 760Lt).
PJHAR6LKXW hhhh
Mid-range
AAA Mano Liza B-4, Ligonins 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 22
25, fax (+370) 5 212 25 08, hotel@aaa.lt, www.hotelinvil-
nius.lt. A small, family-run hotel in a quiet Old Town backstreet,
this place has been garnering constantly good opinions seem-
ingly forever. And for good reason. With a boutique hotel feel,
local art on the walls and the now almost standard inclusion
thats free wireless internet, Mano Liza offers a personal touch
lacking in many similar places. Those who stumble back in at
dawn should take advantage of their much talked about all-day
breakfast. Q8 rooms (1 single 47, 2 doubles 64, 4 suites
81, 1 apartment 93). JA6KW hhh
Alexa B/C-5, Pylimo 53/2, tel. (+370) 5 219 17 80,
fax (+370) 5 278 40 95, reservations@hotelalexa.eu,
www.hotelalexa.eu. The quintessential Lithuanian mixed
bag accommodation option, by all accounts the people who
work here are a charming bunch and the rooms are all per-
fectly fine for the price, even if one of two of them are a very
strange shape. Close to the bus and train stations in a slightly
lugubrious part of town, pitfalls include wireless internet you
have to pay for and a lack of places to eat in the immediate
area. Q 34 rooms (2 singles 35 - 45, 25 doubles 38 - 60,
3 triples 59 - 85, 3 quads 75 - 100, 1 suite 80 - 100).
JHA6ULKW hhh
where to stay
19
where to stay
Algirdas City Hotels G-5, Algirdo 24, tel. (+370) 5 232
66 50, fax (+370) 5 232 66 54, info@algirdashotel.lt,
www.algirdashotel.lt. Located inside a grand-looking building
close to the action and tantalisingly near to a clutch of superb
Chinese restaurants and a 24-hour supermarket, the Algirdas
boasts everything necessary for a comfortable stay. The well
appointed rooms all come with en suite facilities, wireless
internet and a choice of extras according to price including
refrigerators and kettles in the deluxe rooms. The in-house
restaurant also churns out a menu of better than average food
plus the staff on reception are extremely helpful when it comes
to getting hold of things generally difficult to find. Q 42 rooms
(7 singles from 43, 33 doubles from 55, 2 suites from 70).
PJHAULKXW hhh
Apia Hotel B-3, v. Ignoto 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 34 26,
fax (+370) 5 212 36 18, apia@apia.lt, www.apia.lt. A
small, family-run hotel in a wonderful location in the heart of
Old Town close to several good bars and restaurants, all rooms
include free internet access and satellite television plus theres
guarded parking and a friendly staff to help with whatever you
need. Located inside a collection of fabulously restored 17th
century buildings, news filtering back from previous guests
suggests this one is definitely worth further investigation. Q12
rooms (7 singles 203Lt, 7 doubles 251Lt, 2 triples 299Lt, 3
suites 272 - 320Lt). JHAR6LXW hhh
Centro Kubas - Angel C-3, Stikli 3, tel. (+370) 5 266
08 60, fax (+370) 5 266 08 63, hotel@centrokubas.
lt, www.hotel.centrokubas.lt. Angels, windmills, farming
implements and an al together rustic feel inside another
favourite Vilnius hotel. Small enough for the personal touch to
still shine through yet not too small to cram plenty of useful
gadgets in the rooms. Hidden away down a wiggly Old Town
street a few metres from the historic centres main thorough-
fare, it may not be the cheapest option around but if youre
planning on visiting regularly they do offer a good discount
scheme. Q 14 rooms ( singles from 52, doubles from 57,
triples from 79, sui tes 69 - 79, apartments from 79).
PJHAR6UILXW hhh
Barbacan Apartments D- 5, Bokto 19/12,
tel. (+370) 615 126 88, info@barbacan.lt, www.
aparthotel.lt. A range of extremely high quality two- and
three-room apartments in a quiet location and a lovely old
building in Old Town. Facilities include underground park-
ing, satellite television, internet, fully equipped kitchens
and everything else necessary for a luxurious stay. Apart-
ments are available to rent for both long and short stays.
Q Apartments from 101/night. Discounts available for
longer stays. PTJA6ULXW
Stikli Dvaras (Stikliai Apartments) C- 3,
Dominikon 13, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370)
5 212 38 70, apartments@stikliaihotel.lt, www.
stikliaiapartments.lt. Luxuriously furnished apart-
ments inside a 16th- and 17th-century building available
for both short- and long-term rental. Tastefully decorated
and located in the same building as the Relais & Cha-
teaux Stikliai hotel, apartments come fully equipped
with lounge, kitchen, bathroom, one or two bedrooms
plus satellite television and internet access. Theres
underground parking too, plus guests/residents have
access to the adjoining hotels fitness centre and swim-
ming pool. Q 10 apartments (1,500 - 3,500/month).
PTJHARFLKDXC
Long term rental
City Gate C-5, Bazilijon 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 06, fax
(+370) 5 210 73 07, hotel@citygate.lt, www.citygate.lt.
Close to the Dawn Gate, just outside Old Town and looking not
unlike part of the set from Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, this
lovely little hotel affords a healthy space between itself and the
chaos of Friday night whilst still being just across the road from
the sights. The rooms are decent, all coming with free wireless
internet, plus theres three conference halls. Q29 rooms (2 sin-
gles 195 - 250Lt, 17 doubles 240 - 330Lt, 4 triples 300 - 450Lt,
6 suites 250 - 380Lt). PJHAUILKXWhhh
Comfort Hotel Lt H-5, Mindaugo 27, tel. (+370) 5 250
51 11, fax (+370) 5 250 51 14, co.vilnius@choice.lt,
www.comforthotel.lt. Still very much a building site at the
time of going to press and promising to open its doors in the
middle of August 2012, the brand new Comfort Hotel can be
found close to the train and bus stations and little more than
five minutes away from Old Town on foot. The rooms will all
come with en suite facilities and free wireless internet, plus
communal offerings include a small gym and business facili-
ties. Q Open from August 15. 200 rooms (39 - 149/night).
PHA6UFLKW hhh
Comfort Vilnius B-5, Gli 5, tel. (+370) 5 264 88 33,
fax (+370) 5 264 88 32, reservation@mikotelgroup.com,
www.mikotelgroup.com. Simplicity and style get together
and have a bit of a cuddle in this bare-basics but nonethe-
less comfortable little hide-away. Basicall y its a cheap-stay
option with nice little touches (such as light-proof curtains
and free parking) that other budget beds come without. A
quality bargain. Q57 rooms (8 singles 86, 45 doubles 96,
4 deluxe 125). JHAW hhh
Domus Maria C-5, Auros Vart 12, tel. (+370) 5 264
48 80, fax (+370) 5 264 48 78, domusmaria@vilnensis.
lt, www.domusmaria.lt. Excellent value Old Town accom-
modation inside a 17th century former Carmelite monastery,
find 39 well appointed rooms including singles, doubles,
triples, quads and luxury, some with splendid views and all
with televisions, internet connections and en suite bathroom
facili ties. Theres conference facili ties available for those
who need them plus an in-house caf where meals can be
ordered throughout the day. Q39 rooms (3 singles 52, 26
doubles 77, 5 triples 92, 2 quads 98, 3 suites 72 - 82).
JHARULKW hhh
E-GuestHouse G-4, T. evenkos 16, tel. (+370) 5 266
07 30, fax (+370) 5 233 57 10, info@e-guesthouse.lt,
www.e-guesthouse.lt. Qui te the oddest li ttle guesthouse
that there ever was, featuring compact, modern and well
thought out rooms, all coming wi th internet connections
and en sui te bathrooms, plus conference facili ties for up to
60, guarded parking, sauna and two different places to eat
and drink. Located at the top of the hill a good 15-minute
walk from Old Town inside a modern building, the location
may not be the best in town but, especiall y if you get one of
the less expensi ve rooms, i t does offer excellent value for
money. Q34 rooms (4 singles 35 - 44, 14 doubles 54
- 69, 4 triples 70 - 73, 2 sui tes 58 - 75, 10 apartments
83 - 123). PHAR6UFLDW hhh
I have a reservation
A esu usisaks kambar
More toilet paper please
Noriau dar tualetinio popieriaus
Sleep smarts
20
where to stay
where to stay
Europa City Vilnius G-3, J. Jasinskio 14, tel. (+370) 5
251 44 77, fax (+370) 5 251 44 76, vilnius@europacity.
lt, www.europacity.lt. The perfect budget business class
hotel, featuring comfortable rooms with all the conveniences
from satellite television and minibar to top security card keys
and internet connections. Add-ons include a fitness centre to
keep in trim whilst youre working abroad, conference facilities
and a white tablecloth restaurant. Q 128 rooms (90 singles/
doubles 55 - 69, 20 business class rooms 72 - 79, 10
suites 77 - 84, 4 apartments 109). PHAR6U
FLKDXW hhh
Europa Stay Vilnius uolyno 7, tel. (+370) 5 236
22 22, fax (+370) 5 236 22 33, vilnius@europastay.
com. Lots of bright blues and greens more than make up
for the dull journey required to get to and from this budget
class hotel a good 20 minutes from the city centre. Europa
Stay Vilnius is the latest offering from the Europa hotel chain,
a commendable and professional outfit whove applied the
same business sense to their less exclusive hotels they do
to the others. The 101 rooms are all en suite and come with
satellite television and wireless internet. Heal th fans will be
happy to discover the hotel is located inside a large sports
centre. Q101 rooms (25 singles 36 - 51, 66 doubles 41
- 56, 7 triples 46 - 61, 3 apartments 60). PHA6U
FLKDW hhh
Grata Hotel G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 5 268 33 00,
fax (+370) 5 213 27 60, hotel@gratahotel.com, www.
gratahotel.com. Its a bit of a safari to reach reception but
once you do finall y manage to find it youll be glad you did.
Refreshingl y welcoming, the hotel, perched on top of the hill
not too far from Old Town, is geared towards the business
traveller but that doesnt mean you have to wear a suit to
stay here. The rooms, which famousl y boast a computer in
every one, feature classic business hotel blue carpets, en
sui te bathrooms, satelli te television and minibars. Q101
rooms (33 singles 38 - 110, 59 doubles 50 - 120, 4
triples 70 - 140, 5 suites 78 - 150). HAR6ULK
DXCW hhh
Green Vilnius Hotel Pilaits 20, tel. (+370) 5 250
06 95, fax (+370) 5 250 06 94, info@greenhotel.lt,
www.greenhotel.lt. This surprisingl y large budget hotel
(126 rooms at the last count) is a budget hotel for a reason,
namel y because i ts not exactl y what one could describe
as being in the ci ty centre. If you dont mind lots of messing
about on public transport or are prepared to run the gauntlet
of the citys taxi drivers then by all means be their guest. The
rooms come in a range of sporty colours and are all fi tted
wi th showers, televisions wi th international channels and
wireless internet, wi th an extra four floors featuring rooms
wi th small ki tchens for people who want to stay for more
than a few days. Surplus to the super budget lodgings are
conference facilities and a restaurant. Q126 rooms (singles
159Lt, doubles 180Lt, quads 245Lt). HA6ULKW
hhh
Hotel Tilto B-1/C-2, Tilto 8/3, tel. (+370) 5 210 00
21, fax (+370) 5 210 00 20, info@hoteltilto.com, www.
hoteltilto.com. An excellent location on a quiet Old Town
street close to the Cathedral and other major si tes, Hotel
Til to garners much praise from those whove slept in their
beds. Among the ameni ties are en sui te facili ties for all,
satelli te television and wireless internet access in a choice
of rooms from compact singles through to mini apartments.
The staff are a friendl y bunch plus theres a small bar special-
ising in draught Guinness in the cellar. Q34 rooms (6 singles
166 - 307Lt, 15 doubles 200 - 363Lt, 6 triples 242 - 497Lt,
7 sui tes 276 - 518Lt). PJHAKDW hhh
Panorama B-6, Sod 14, tel. (+370) 5 233 88 22, fax
(+370) 5 233 88 32, reservation@mikotelgroup.com,
www.mikotelgroup.com. This surprising hotel rises above
its location and offers wonderful views of Old Town and plenty
of comfort and luxury without steep prices. While it is very
convenient to be across the square from the bus and train
stations, it is a convenience that is also enjoyed by all manner
of scumbags, vagrants and weary commuters. Being in the
freshl y renovated hotel is lovel y. Hanging around outside it is
not. Still, its just a short stroll and a quick run of the gauntlet
to Old Town, and the combination of views, basic comforts and
reasonable prices is unmatched. Q223 rooms (13 singles
86 - 105, 195 doubles 96 - 115, 9 triples 115, 2 apart-
ments 155, 3 deluxe 125). JHA6LKW hhh
Park Inn Vilnius North Ukmergs 363, tel. (+370)
5 238 80 00, fax (+370) 5 238 85 55, info.vilnius@
rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn.com/hotel-vilnius.
Located 6km or so north of the ci ty centre on the main
road north out of the capi tal, Park Inn Vilnius North pro-
vides the usual excellent Park Inn experience for visi tors
of all persuasions. Featuring 84 Standard and Business
Friendl y rooms, facili ties include bright and comfortable
accommodation wi th free wireless internet as standard
and a host of other treats. Extras include a restaurant,
bar, large meeting room and free parking. Q84 rooms (79
singles 42 - 48, 79 doubles 47 - 53, 5 sui tes 62 - 73).
HAR6ULKXW hhh
Rinno A-4, Vingri 25, tel. (+370) 5 262 28 28, fax
(+370) 5 262 59 29, info@rinno.lt, www.rinno.lt.
Just west of Old Town in a small, quiet street, Rinno is a
good-looking three-star hotel in an admirable location for
an affordable price. The rooms come in several categories
from the good value standards through to luxury rooms
complete wi th a large bath and minibar. All rooms feature
free wireless internet, al though you should check first to
make sure you get a room close to the wireless box to
make sure the signal is strong enough. Q17 rooms (14
singles 49 - 79, 14 doubles 55 - 89, 3 sui tes 69 - 99).
JHA6LKW hhh
Senatoriai C-2, Tilto 2a, tel. (+370) 5 212 64 91, fax
(+370) 5 212 63 72, info@senatoriai.lt, www.senatoriai.
lt. A super li ttle hotel practicall y on top of the Cathedral,
Senatoriai features a small selection of en sui te rooms
complete with chintzy curtains, refrigerators, extraordinaril y
comfortable beds, free wireless internet and, in Room N9,
a magical view of Gediminas Castle. The staff are friendl y
and the in-house restaurant (breakfast is extra and comes
from a menu) is an extremel y popular place for all manner
of locals as well as a venue for rowdy weekend parties. The
best Mexican restaurant in town also just so happens to be
right next door. Q 11 rooms ( singles 190Lt, doubles 230Lt).
PTJA6LKXW hhh
Budget
Ambassador B-1, Gedimino 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 54
50, fax (+370) 5 212 17 16, info@ambassador.lt, www.
ambassador.lt. A magnificent throwback to an earlier age
wi th a few 21st-century concessions, the Ambassador
provides adequate lodging for a fine price with the added
advantage of one of the best locations in town. The rooms
are a little old-fashioned, but if youre in the mood for a bargain
complete with pleasant staff, surprisingly good breakfast and
a cavalcade of top sights on your doorstep, look no further.
Q18 rooms (3 singles 100 - 240Lt, 11 doubles 115 - 280Lt,
2 triples 175 - 340Lt, 1 quad 235 - 400Lt, 1 suite 360Lt).
JA6LX hh
where to stay
21
where to stay
Corner Hotel G-5, T. evenkos 16, tel. (+370) 5 210
23 61, fax (+370) 5 210 23 64, reservation@corner-
hotel.lt, www.cornerhotel.lt. An excellent budget choice
close to Old Town at the top of the hill, this clean and modern
option provides a range of simple en suite rooms for between
one and four guests, free wireless internet and a better than
average breakfast. Corner Hotel is also worth considering
i f youre coming to stay for a while, offering serviced en
suite rooms with shared kitchen and laundry facilities. Its
also just around the corner from Algirdo, a street boasting
several good restaurants. Q141 rooms (5 singles 177Lt,
33 triples 216Lt, 5 quads 236Lt, 98 double (twin) 196Lt).
HA6ULW hh
Ecotel Vilnius H-3, Slucko 8, tel. (+370) 5 210 27 00,
fax (+370) 5 210 27 07, hotel@ecotel.lt, www.ecotel.
lt. Tucked away in a pleasant, quiet part of town just east of
the ci tys emerging business district, Ecotel offers a choice
of sleek and comfortable rooms, all coming wi th telephone
and television, and including a range for non-smokers and
those wi th all ergy probl ems. Wi th conference facili ti es
and a whole host of other services (including rooms for
tall guests) this might be the lofty option youre looking
for. Q166 rooms (20 singles 40, 136 doubles 46, 10
triples 51). HAR6ULW hh
Mikotel C-6, Pylimo 63, tel. (+370) 5 260 96 26, fax
(+370) 5 260 96 27, reservation@mikotel.lt, www.
mikotelgroup.com. The receptionists are cheerful and
outgoing at this modern hotel near the train station. Fortu-
natel y, unlike i ts dismal surroundings the hotels interior is
clean and bright wi th the added touch of local artwork for
sale on the walls. Q26 rooms (4 singles 55, 9 doubles
70, 4 triples 85, 2 quads 87, 6 famil y rooms 98).
JA6L hh
Rdnink Vartai B-5, Rdnink 15/46, tel. (+370)
5 261 39 16, fax (+370) 5 212 05 07, rudninkai@
cityhotels.lt, www.rudninkuvartai.lt. Si tuated at one
of the ci tys former gates and just across the road from
one of the few remaining sections of the old ci ty wall, this
reasonable budget option wi th plenty of exposed brickwork
for that old world feeling offers both standard rooms and
something a li ttle bi t more special. All rooms are en sui te,
plus theres free wireless internet throughout and at the
time of wri ting an in-house Belgian restaurant. A splendid
location right on the edge of Old Town and wi thin easy
walking distance of the bus and train stations. Q 17 rooms
(5 singles from 49, 11 doubles from 61, 1 sui te 104).
JHA6ILKXW hh
Bed & Breakfast
The Lithuanian definition of Bed & Breakfast conforms
to the US model. Visitors from the UK should note that
the two are as different as can be. Whereas in the United
Kingdom B&B is more or less a small, usually family-run
hotel, in Lithuania its more of an apartment kind of thing.
Indeed, most Lithuanian B&Bs are just that. Here it can
also mean any kind of hosted accommodation, whether
being a room in a family house to something similar in
a building run by professional staff. So, not really Bed &
Breakfast as is so famous in Blighty. Brits beware! If in
doubt, make sure to ask plenty of questions before book-
ing something you never really wanted.
Bernardin B&B House D-2, Bernardin 5, tel.
(+370) 5 261 51 34, fax (+370) 5 260 84 10, reserva-
tion@bernardinuhouse.com, www.bernardinuhouse.
com. An excell ent value li ttl e guesthouse, smack bang
in the middl e of Old Town. Q 13 rooms (140 - 300Lt).
JA6LXW
Sauls Namai J-3, Sauls 15/23, tel. (+370) 5
210 61 12, hotel@saules-namai.com, www.saules-
namai.com. To be found not too far from the centre
in Antakalnis, fi ve minutes from the nearest troll eybus
stop, this place cant come recommended enough. Run
by a ni ce famil y whove done the desi gn and building work
themsel ves, there are a number of interesting rooms
wi th lots of stripped pine, exposed bri ckwork and quirky
paintings. Theres a large ki tchen where you can prepare
your own food or have i t made for you, a beauti ful li ving
room wi th a large fireplace and a qui et, l eafy garden.
Exceptional value and hi ghl y recommended. Q 9 rooms
(singl es 70 - 120Lt, doubl es 140 - 200Lt, tripl es 160 -
220Lt). 6ILXW
Guesthouses
Ameda F-3, Latvi 27, tel. (+370) 601 704 40, ho-
telameda@gmail.com, www.hotelameda.lt. Spl endid
value rooms and apar tments in l ovel y vr ynas wi th
excell ent publi c transport connections to the ci ty centre
or a 15-minute walk for the more energeti c, all options
come wi th at least satelli te television and internet connec-
tions, wi th the recommended apartments also featuring
such homel y inclusions as fireplaces and full y equipped
ki tchens. Q 6 rooms (singl es 25, doubl es 25 - 30,
apartments 45 - 60). 6IW
22
where to stay
where to stay
More hotels online
Litinterp Guest House D-2, Bernardin 7, tel.
(+370) 5 212 38 50/(+370) 689 985 17, fax (+370)
5 212 35 59, vilnius@litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.com.
Cl ose to the Cathedral and many of the maj or si ghts,
this seasoned favouri te has been providing quali ty, low
cost accommodation to visi tors for some two decades.
Located inside a glorious histori c building on one of Old
Towns prettiest streets, facili ties are basic but more than
ampl e, wi th options for everybody from singl e guests to
families. All rooms come wi th their own small ki tchens
plus theres a choi ce of en sui te and shared bathroom
facili ties. Airport pi ck-up and help wi th car rental is also
availabl e. Q16 rooms (4 singl es 80 - 100Lt, 9 doubl es
140 - 160Lt, 3 tripl es 180 - 210Lt, 4 apartments 160 -
280Lt). JA hh
Paupio Namai I-4, Paupio 31a, tel. (+370) 5 264 31
13, fax (+370) 5 264 31 12, hotel@paupio.lt, www.pau-
pionamai.lt. A big friendl y manor house full of big friendl y
staff tucked away just off the street. Here you can get just
about any combination you require, from a shared dormi tory
and bathroom to sel f-contained apartments wi th en sui te
facili ties. The rooms are basic, clean, and fairl y good value,
and if you want you can take advantage of the full y equipped
downstairs ki tchen to keep costs down even further. Prices
include a large breakfast. Q 29 rooms (35 - 80Lt/person).
AR6ILW
Hostels
A Hostel B-6, Sod 8, tel. (+370) 5 215 02 70, info@
hostelsvilnius.lt, www.ahostel.lt. This well located hostel
claims to provide accommodation along the lines of the
Japanese pod system which on closer inspection appears to
be nothing more than standard bunk beds. Extras include 15
minutes of free wireless internet, no curfew and hot showers
around the clock. This is the best of their addresses. Also at
Sod 17. Q (28 - 140Lt). JALW
Come to Vilnius B-6, v. Stepono 15, tel. (+370) 656
050 36, www.cometovilnius.eu. A small hostel between
the train and bus stations and Old Town, facilities are few and
far between featuring shared rooms and bathroom facilities.
The staff dish out free maps on arrival and can also arrange
everything from bicycle rental and tours to other tourist-
related services. Q6 rooms (singles 13 - 20, doubles 29,
triples 44, quads 52). TJNW
Filaretai J-4, Filaret 17, tel. (+370) 5 215 46 27, fax
(+370) 5 212 01 49, info@filaretaihostel.lt, www.filar-
etaihostel.lt. A back-to-basics hostel in the quirky Uupis
district, accommodation comes in the usual dormitory style
or, as is increasingly popular in hostels these days, with twin
rooms for more privacy. Bathroom and kitchen facilities are
shared, theres also laundry facilities, plus, unlike some, theres
no annoying curfew. Q20 rooms (1 single 70Lt, 7 doubles 50Lt,
2 triples 40Lt, 10 dormitory rooms 34Lt). HARW
Fortuna Hostel D-6, Pelesos 61/2, tel. (+370) 623
450 50, fax (+370) 5 260 85 89, fortunahostel@lha.
lt, www.fortunahostel.lt. From the same people as Old
Town Hostel, Fortuna is located just south of Old Town close
to the bus and train stations. Featuring lots of exposed
where to stay
23
where to stay
stonework alongside modern conveniences, rooms come in
range of choices from the usual dorms to twins. Everyone
speaks English, plus theres a good kitchen and even a place
to park a car. Q (doubles 90Lt, triples 120Lt, quads 160Lt).
JA6LXW
Old Town Hostel C-5, Auros Vart 20-15, tel. (+370)
5 262 53 57, fax (+370) 5 268 59 67, oldtownhostels@
lha.lt, www.oldtownhostel.lt. A classic hostel in the old
sense, meaning youre just as likel y to find hard up Polish
pensioners staying here as you are middle class English
university students pretending to be poor. Ignore the fact
that its not actuall y in Old Town and dont expect all-night
parties with new-found Australian soul mates and youll be
fine. Facilities are thin on the ground as one would expect,
but for the price youd be an idiot to complain. Surplus to the
army-style barracks are a few smaller rooms with en suite
bathrooms and cooking facilities. Q (doubles 90Lt, triples
120Lt, quads 160Lt). JRW
Pogo Hostel C-2, B. Radvilaits 3, tel. (+370) 670 795
91, hostel@pogo.lt, www.pogo.lt. From the same people
behind one of the best bars in Lithuania comes this new hostel,
located in one of the best locations in the city, clean, simple,
fun and amazingly good value for money. Rooms range from
extremely affordable singles through to dorms that sleep up to
10 and the people who run it are very friendly. An exceptionally
good option for anyone looking to meet like-minded people with
a youthful outlook and a taste for good beer. Q5 rooms (2
doubles 30, 1 9 bed mixed dorms 11, 1 6 bed mixed dorms
12, 1 4 bed mixed dorms 12). ARW
Vilnius Youth Tourist Centre (Vilniaus Jaunj
Turist Centras) I-4, Polocko 7, tel. (+370) 5 261 35
76, fax (+370) 5 262 77 42, vjtc@delfi.lt, www.vjtc.lt.
Set in a pastoral Uupis courtyard, the building is in a state of
dilapidated charm characteristic of the area. Accommodation
comes in a range of Spartan rooms that can sleep up to five,
all with shared bathroom facilities. Other temptations include
a communal kitchen and the chance to have breakfast, which
is served outside during the summer, and made for you if
youre feeling flush. Q 16 rooms (34Lt/night). R
Short term rental
Apartments Domus247 Tel. (+370) 604 486 36, fax
(+431) 253 033 300 05, info@domus247.com, www.
domus247.com. A highl y recommended agency dealing in
properties of all kinds for rent everywhere in the city and
slightl y further afield. The choice of places is impressive to
say the least, and the service is outstanding. A recent at-
tempt to find accommodation in Vilnius for four nights during
a particularl y busy period saw them offering one of their own
properties as everything else was full y booked. Marvellous.
Q 120 - 700Lt/night. J
Auksinis Trikampis C-3, Didioji 8, tel. (+370) 655 043
09, nona_mackiene@yahoo.com, www.auksinistrikampis.
lt. A large, fully equipped apartment with two bedrooms right
in the heart of the Old Town action. Spacious and close to all
the major sights, amenities include kitchen, cable television,
wireless internet and parking facilities. See the website for
more information. Q (110 - 290Lt/night). JW
Eugenijus Apartments H-4, Vilniaus 25-1, tel. (+370)
699 424 56, eugenijp@takas.lt, www.vilniusapart-
ments.lt. A choice of two decent, good value apartments in
Old Town, located at street level for easy access and coming
with everything required for a self-catering stay. Close to the
main sights, the apartments are managed by a local husband
and wife who run a small ceramics workshop and gallery in
the city. Other services include car and bicycle rental, guided
tours and translation services. Q 2 apartments (30 - 40/
night). JL
Rentida Apartments B-4, v. Mikalojaus 5, tel.
(+370) 682 281 42, gvidas@rentida.lt, www.rentida.
lt. Modern and classy apartments wi th all the trimmings
on a fabulous Old Town street close to the oldest church in
the city. Peaceful, and with some great views out of the win-
dows, facilities include wireless internet and cable television.
Q (150 - 250Lt/night). TJW
Skapo Apartments C-2, S. Skapo 8-17, tel. (+370) 610
038 54, info@skapoapartments.lt, www.skapoapart-
ments.lt. Fine modern apartments, beautifull y restored in a
historical building close to Vilnius University, available for stays
of any length and complete with all necessary amenities.
Q (37 - 85/night). JA6W
Stasys Apartments Tel. (+370) 699 326 72, stasys@
apartment-vilnius.com, www.apartment-vilnius.com.
A choice of several apartments to sui t every taste and
budget, centrall y located, and featuring everything neces-
sary for a pleasant, sel f-catering stay. Satelli te television
in every apartment. Q 8 apartments (120 - 300Lt/night).
RW
Vilnius Apartments C-3/4, Stikli 6-1, tel. (+370) 600
128 22, info@euapartments.lt, www.euapartments.lt.
A wide range of one- and two-bedroom apartments for rent
in Old Town for both short and long stays. Each apartment is
very different in style and amenities, the latter including such
useful attractions as free internet and washing machines.
Q 7 apartments (160 - 240Lt/night). J
24
restaurants
restaurants
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking W Wireless Internet access
X Smoking place B Outside seating
I Fireplace J Old town location
Prices listed in the Restaurants section of this guide refer to
the average cost of a main course for one, excluding drinks.
Symbol key
Wi th the exception of a handful of amusing and/
or appalling disasters, eating out in Vilnius is both
excellent and relati vel y affordable for all. The ci tys
restaurants and cafs li terall y cater to taste buds of
every persuasion, offering everything from vast plates
of potato-based local speciali ties to a surprisingl y wide
and generall y palatable concoction of dishes from the
ki tchens of such far away places as India and Brazil.
Service continues to be the main stumbling block even
in the most aristocratic of eateries, and is easil y the
subj ect from which the maj ori ty of visi tors gain the
most displeasure. Al though the bulk of restaurants
worth visi ting can be found wi thin the ci ty centre, the
suburbs also offer a few treats, which we list when we
feel that the plaudi ts is deserving. Tipping, i f deserved,
is up to the diner, wi th 10 per cent or a rounding up of
the bill both being acceptable.
Lithuanian
There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant
in Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features
pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of
potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent
of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and
is perhaps best described as a restaurant or caf serving
predominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian favourites
in an atmosphere you wont find anywhere other than in
Lithuania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the
good restaurant owners of Vilnius and call the former of
the two Folk restaurants, we choose to list both types of
restaurant together.
Aula C-2, Pilies 11, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 73, www.
aularestoranas.lt. A mi xed Li thuanian and international
menu of competent cooking brought to your table by staff
whose lack of expertise is usuall y more than made up for by
their friendliness. The last serving of potato pancakes eaten
here went down a treat, plus theres the added advantage of a
downstairs live music club. Summertime brings a small terrace
and large courtyard to this classic Old Town favourite. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:30 - 01:00, Sun
10:30 - 24:00. 20Lt. PTJAUBSW
ili Kaimas B-4, Vokiei 8, tel. (+370) 5 231 25 36,
www.cili.lt. Wal t Disney meets The Waltons inside the
countrys most popular folk restaurant chain. Resplendent
accessories include small farmyard animals to keep the children
entertained, agricultural implements on the walls and a surpris-
ingly friendly and efficient bunch of waitresses scuttling about in
traditional costumes. The menu of artery-clogging indigenous
dishes is pretty good considering the rate at which its pumped
restaurants
25
restaurants
out of the kitchen. An interesting point worth noting is that the
last vegetable soup we had here had bits of chicken in it. Also at
Gedimino 14. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. 16Lt.
PTJAVSW
Forto Dvaras C-2, Pilies 16, tel. (+370) 656 136
88, www.fortas.eu. An increasingl y large national fran-
chise of folk restaurants pandering to people in danger
of becoming increasingl y large themsel ves, Forto Dvaras
offers quality traditional Lithuanian food in a folksy interior
without going completely over the top. The food is authen-
tic, immensel y filling if you choose the right dish, and for
the location exceptionally good value for money, whilst the
service is in general reasonably friendly and thoughtful. The
summertime outdoor seating provides some of the best
people-watching in the capital. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 15Lt.
TJABSW
Graf Zeppelin C-4, Saviiaus 9, tel. (+370) 674 629
49, www.grafzeppelin.lt. One of the ci tys more clever
anomalies, bask in antiquity and fill yourself up with whats
claimed to be the largest cepelinai in the capital. The good
value menu is made up of a range of Lithuanian and German
dishes, most notabl y the aforementioned blimps which now
feature as the Lithuanian national dish and that were surel y
based on something the Hun brought to the country it oc-
cupied during WWI. All in all a great place for a full blown,
gut-busting meal and an equall y enjoyable atmosphere when
theyre busy. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 13:00 - 17:00. 18Lt. PJAS
Katpdl I-1, Lukio 34, tel. (+370) 5 278 88 14,
www.katpedele.lt. A popular national chain of restaurants
serving classic Lithuanian dishes in a folksy setting as well
as more international offerings and that old favouri te the
lunchtime special offer. Find them scattered around the
city and the country. An excellent value introduction to the
wonders of local heart-blocking nosh. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
Thu 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
14Lt. PABSW
Keisti enklai B-3, Trak 13, tel. (+370) 5 261 07
79. Strange Signs has been busil y keeping a low profile in
Old Town for a very long time indeed, a fact that deserves
some recognition. Al though dining here could never reall y be
classed as a memorable experience, the experience is at
least worth the time, effort and money. The menu lurches
from taste bud to taste bud, offering a mind-boggling choice
of food from local special ties to average pizza. Cheap beer
too. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. 11Lt. PJAS
Koldnin C-4, Saviiaus 6, tel. (+370) 679 262 59. For
the uninitiated, koldnai are the Lithuanian version of ravioli,
pelmeni, pierogi etc., small pillows of dough encasing a range
of fillings. This friendly place in the heart of Old Town makes it
on the premises and serves it in two sizes. Fillings include beef,
chicken, mutton, cottage cheese and spinach plus one with
sweet berries. An excellent introduction to the simplicities of
local cuisine. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 22:00, Sat
12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 12Lt. PTJSW
26
restaurants
restaurants
Lokys C-4, Stikli 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 90 46, www.lokys.
lt. One of Vilnius best known restaurants, Lokys (The Bear)
opened its doors to rouble-paying customers way back in 1972
in the Gothic cellars of an Old Town building dating back to the late
15th century and has been serving so-called traditional hunters
dishes amidst a slightly tongue-in-cheek backdrop ever since. The
limited menu focuses on unusual dishes including quail, venison
and even beaver, with a couple of vegetarian options to keep
everybody happy. Live music happens from time to time, plus you
can rent the entire place for the full blown medieval experience.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. JABS
Marceliuks Kltis I-2, Tuskuln 35, tel. (+370) 5 272
50 87. Fairytale waitresses deliver meals the size of your head
from a menu of traditional Lithuanian dishes featuring more
calories than there are stars in the universe. Located somewhat
strangely in the middle of a large concrete housing estate, this
barnlike restaurant is strewn with such archaic eye candy as
wooden bicycles hung from the ceiling and a pink and green
threshing machine by the front door. Large tables make this a
firm favourite for families and groups. Gentlemen confronted
with the strange machine in the toilet should know that it really
is for weeing in. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 17Lt. TAEBS
Italika Kepykla C- 3, Dominikon 16, tel.
(+370) 686 310 23. The main supermarket chains
in Li thuania have come a long way over the last few
years when i t comes to bread, but i ts still fairl y im-
possible to find the per fect loaf. Hats off then to this
oasis in the dessert, the brainchild of a local lady so
enamoured by the kind of bread and pastries made
by the Italians she introduced them here. Whereas
the supermarkets get the recipes right but skimp on
the basic materials (the wrong flour, cheap fat etc.),
I talika Kepykla uses onl y the best ingredients to
make bread to knock your socks off. Magni ficent and
most highl y recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JAS
Thierry Kepykla D-3, Uupio 19, tel. (+370) 676
608 89. Currently making waves as the best place in
town for croissants and coffee for breakfast at one of
just three tables, any half-way decent addition to the
generally grim selection of bakeries in Vilnius is more
than welcome. A bit out of the way at the top of a steep
Uupis hill, by all accounts the walk is worth the effort.
The ones in the city centre are yet to be tested. Also
at vitrigailos 29. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 -
18:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JASW
Bakeries
Senoji Pasaga C-1, Vrublevskio 2/1, tel. (+370)
687 880 40. A mildl y disturbing interior that gi ves the
impression of a recent burglary should in no way put diners
off. The menu of local and international dishes is perfectl y
fine and qui te affordabl e, whilst the tiny secluded garden
at the back is a marvellous place for a quiet lunch during
the summer. I ts location close to the Cathedral is also a
boon. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt.
PTJAUIBSW
Senoji Trobel G-5, Naugarduko 36, tel. (+370) 609
990 02, www.senojitrobele.lt. Perfect i f youre staying
in one of the hotels nearby and worth the walk up the
hill from Old Town to eat here, this intimate folk-themed
restaurant is one of the best exampl es of i ts kind in the
country. We like the place, especiall y on a sunny day when
i ts possibl e to eat and drink on their fine small terrace.
The food is classi c unpretentious l ocal cuisine, tastes
good and is equall y superb value for money. I f youd like to
take a li ttle piece of the place home, their unique crockery
is availabl e for sal e.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 -
23:00. Closed Sun. 20Lt.TAULVBSW
emaiiai B-4, Vokiei 24, tel. (+370) 5 261 65
73, www.zemaiciai.lt. A brilliant coll ection of medieval
cellars desi gned for a sli ghtl y upmarket folk-themed
dining experi ence, i gnore the internati onal dishes and
plunge into the tradi tional food. Those eating in groups
should consider one of the bi g mi xed platters, whi ch are
good value and fun to share. Also worth trying is the fresh
in-house beer, made in the old-fashioned unpasteurised
fashion and a rare treat indeed. Also check out their fast
weekday lunch i f youre in a hurry. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
30Lt. JABS
Classic Lithuanian cuisine belongs to a long tradition of
shared peasant gastronomy in the region, with the most
renowned dishes being found in one form or another on
the tables of neighbouring countries as well as among
the descendants of the Ashkenazi Jews. Among the most
popular ingredients are berries, mushrooms, pork, dairy
products, dark rye bread, pickles, herring, and potatoes.
The unofficial national dish is cepelinai (zeppelins), boiled
potato dumplings filled with minced pork or cottage cheese
(vark) and similar to the Swedish kroppkaka and the
French-Canadian rpe. Originally aimed at manual la-
bourers working 16 hours or more a day, visiting systems
analysts may find eating more than one a problem, although
the experience is certainly recommended. Koldnai are
the local version of ravioli, pelmeni, pierogi etc. Like many
other classic local dishes, authentic koldnai are excep-
tionally good and equally hard to find. Next up, kibinai are
meat-filled pies similar in appearance to Cornish pasties
that feature (as kybyn) as the traditional dish of the Lithu-
anian Karaite, a bizarre Turko-Judaic ethnic group living in
the region since the 14th century. The best kibinai can be
found in Trakai (see p.64). Balandliai (Polish, gobki),
meaning little pigeons, are minced pork-filled cabbage
rolls in a creamy sauce. The best ones take half a day to
make and are worth the wait. The classic summer dish is
altibariai (pictured), which translates as cold borsch
and is a cold soup made from beetroot and kefyras (kefir)
served with a side dish of hot potatoes. altibariai can
be found just about everywhere during the warmer part of
the year and offers an excellent way of getting a quick and
nutritious lunch when sightseeing. Along with kepta duona,
fried black breadsticks served with garlic and/or cheese
that have been known to make people move to Lithuania,
altibariai is pretty much the only traditional local food
available to vegetarians. Also recommended and found in
restaurants and shops around the city are the baked potato
pudding known as kugelis (Yiddish, kugel), bulviniai blynai
(potato pancakes) and for dessert, lietiniai, better known
in the English-speaking world as pancakes. The Lithuanian
equivalent of bon apptit is skanaus.
Lithuanian cuisine
27
restaurants
Argentinean
El Gaucho Sano C-3, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77
73, www.atrium.lt. This dark downstairs restaurant is
prized by those in the know for its steaks, but theres also
plenty of other Argentinean specialities on offer for those who
like to experiment, making El Gaucho Sano an ideal place to
head for diners bored of the usual offerings around town. This
time round we went for the sirloin steak, which was ample in
proportions, cooked to perfection and extremel y good value
considering this is basically a hotel restaurant. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. 60Lt. PJASW
Armenian
Ararat H-5, Kauno 3a, tel. (+370) 5 233 45 69, www.
araratas.lt. Nobody cooks meat better than the people
from the Caucasus and the people who cook it in this new
Armenian restaurant are no exception to the fact. The menu
of grilled meat dishes is impressive, not least because they
all taste magnificent and leave diners with the kind of post-
meal glowing sensation that only a handful of restaurants can
deliver. The service is good too, and the bill looks like a typo.
Excellent value for money indeed and well worth the slight
detour required to eat here. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 18Lt. PTABSW
Asian
Tokyo China A-1, A. Vienuolio 4, tel. (+370) 620 241
16, www.cili.lt. Youve got to hand it to these people, theyre
not stupid. Taking advantage of the current obsession with
sushi, Tokyo China has sprung up in the guise of an Asian
restaurant offering a range of Asian dishes thats reall y just
a sushi joint underneath. If you cant get to the party first,
come in disguise. The food is good by the way, al though
the friendl y and attentive service is a wee bit over the top.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PJAVBS
Wok & Roll H-5, v. Stepono 19, tel. (+370) 642 444
40. Currentl y making waves among the undergroundesque
fashionistas of Vilnius, this slightl y out of the way little hit is
a cross between a classic Asian fast food restaurant and a
DJ bar. The food, which also includes sandwiches and soup,
is passable if not exactl y legendary and if you hi t i t on a
good night youll certainl y enjoy the vibe. A good option for a
few beers among interesting people with the added bonus
of simple food on tap to stave off the hunger. Wok & Roll will
also be dishing out food for the duration of the summer from
the side of a van parked up in vrynas by the (F-3) footbridge
that leads to Vingio Parkas. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
15:00 - 23:00. 6VEBSW
Brazilian
Grill Brazil C-4, Vokiei 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 43 61, www.
grillbrazil.lt. A marvellous restaurant specialising in chur-
rasco and espeto corrido cuisine, which for the uninitiated is
a Brazilian buffet extravaganza wherein diners help themselves
to endless portions of salad and other dishes whilst a proces-
sion of waiters do the rounds armed with large skewers loaded
with grilled meat which is cut at the table and dropped onto the
plate. Unquestionably one of the best restaurants in the country,
theres also an accompanying set menu for the less adventur-
ous. Their Old Town venture is geared slightly more towards
the tourist market, whereas their other place on the top floor
of Panorama is a much more local affair. Both are excellent and
highly recommended. Q Open Wed, Thu, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. 26Lt. PJA
28
restaurants
restaurants
British
Bokto Vartai C-3, Bokto 2, tel. (+370) 5 260 96
64. Popular with locals and foreigners alike, this two-floor
Old Town restaurant in a fabulous historical building is a
joint Lithuanian-British venture that fuses together the best
aspects of both cul tures. The menu is impressive and has
yet to disappoint, whether its their classic English breakfast
or the monster burgers and fries. Theres a great selection
of beers at good prices too, plus the occasional evening of
live music. QOpen Mon, Tue 12:00 - 16:00, Wed 12:00 -
23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. 25Lt.
PJASW
Chinese
Didioji Kinija H-3, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 263
63 63, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. One of a small chain of Chinese
restaurants in town, all of them worthy of further culinary
investigation, Didioji Kinijas location may not be exactl y
central but is certainl y calling for a visit. As with the vast
majority of Chinese food in Vilnius, this is the real thing, not
the adul terated imitation usuall y served up in places like the
UK. The menu itself is massive, not unlike the actual dishes
of which theres a good range to suit all, including vegetarians.
The current business lunch served here, which can be eaten
in-house or taken away, is ridiculousl y good value indeed.
Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PTAVBSW
Fine dining
California Gourmet C-5, Subaiaus 2 (Ramada Ho-
tel & Suites Vilnius), tel. (+370) 5 255 33 55, www.
californiagourmet.lt. The five-star Ramada Hotel & Suites
Vilnius flagship gourmet restaurant offers the ul timate in
dining, from the sophisticated dcor through to the mouth-
watering food. Bill ed as the first gourmet restaurant in
Lithuania, the food here is taken very seriousl y indeed and
gets most of its inspiration from the mel ting pot of cuisines
coming out of the United States. The menu is impressive
and includes a weal th of classy dishes from a much talked-
about Caesar salad to fresh lobster to foie gras. QOpen
18:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. 65Lt.
PTJAULBSW
La Provence B-4, Vokiei 22, tel. (+370) 5 262 02
57, www.laprovence.lt. This Vilnius favourite specialising
in Mediterranean cooking at its best is generall y crowded
wi th tables full of well-heeled locals and foreigners tuck-
ing into a mouth-watering range of dishes including fish,
grilled meat and a couple of vegetarian options. Prepared
and delivered with the height of care, attention and even a
little theatre, despite its reputation as a rather expensive
restaurant, not onl y is i t worth the money here there are
also a number of dishes that wont break the bank. Having
said that, they do stock a couple of bottles of champagne
for 1,000Lt a pop. Magnificent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 70Lt.
PTJAS
Narutis Restaurant C-2/3, Pilies 24 (The Narutis Hotel -
Preferred Boutique), tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, www.narutis.
com. Lush burgundy and orange fabrics and glorious 18th-
century frescoes, white tablecloths and staff with impeccable
style, thats what people have grown to expect in this top notch
Old Town hotel restaurant. Theres plenty of imitators hereabouts,
but in Naruio Restoranas you get the real thing, meaning great
service and great food. The menu features an imaginative
concoction of dishes from around the world, including one of the
best kybyn (a Lithuanian Karaite speciality) in the country to a
mouth-watering Chilean sea bass. Using fresh ingredients to
create works of art on every plate, this one really is hard to beat.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 65Lt. PTJABSW
29
restaurants
Stikliai C-3, Gaono 7 (Stikliai Hotel), tel. (+370) 5
264 95 80, www.stikliaihotel.lt. A small but magnificent
menu of wonderful dishes featuring such classic favouri tes
as black truffles and a proper sorbet, all served from soup
to nuts by impeccable staff in trul y sumptuous surroundings.
Whereas most hotel restaurants are best avoided, this one
is more than an exception. Backpackers and stag parties
might like to find somewhere else to eat. People wi th style
who know a good thing when they see i t and who like to
impress might like to book a table. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00,
18:00 - 23:30. Sat 12:00 - 23:30. Closed Mon, Sun. 90Lt.
PTJAUBW
French
Aux Champs - Elyses A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5
205 81 92, info@mlgrupe.com, www.eliziejauslaukai.
lt. Popular wi th a wide range of locals and foreigners alike,
the dcor is French wi thout being over the top and the
menu, including plenty of French favouri tes including snails
and that also features weekl y changing dishes, is genuinel y
excellent. Theres pleasant li ve music every Thursday from
18:00 too.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. JA
Balzac C-4, Saviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 614 892 23,
www.balzac.lt. From the fun tables in the li ttle back room
to the slightl y punky wai tress to the fact that the place was
heaving on a Monday ni ght to the amusing musi c poli cy,
everything during our last outing here was just ri ght. The
small menu also scored very well, wi th the red pepper
soup and the steak being parti cularl y exceptional. Rec-
ommended for all types of dining. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00,
Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
30Lt. PTJABS
30
restaurants
restaurants
Brasserie de Verres en Vers C-4, Didioji 35/2 (Radis-
son Blu Astorija Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 236 08 40, www.
radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. As one would expect from
the Radisson brand, their in-house Vilnius Old Town restaurant
is pure top class. Tastefully decorated in cool browns, eat in a
choice of two halls, one with a little privacy and the other with
large windows looking out onto the street outside. The small
but well-chosen menu features a cavalcade of classics with
a predominantly French flavour. Recommended is the slow
roasted rabbit with saut potatoes. The service is friendly and
attentive QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. 100Lt. PJAUBW
March de Provence C-3, Pilies 27, tel. (+370) 686
777 07. A reall y great-looking restaurant serving a limited
choice of dishes from France and the Mediterranean region
in general. We had a knockout salad followed by a cheese
risotto, one of the hardest dishes to make well and that the
chef made pretty much to perfection. Theres a good wine
list too, the staff know what theyre talking about and the
use of fresh herbs in every dish reall y helps make the place
stand out from the crowd. A small terrace out the back of the
building opens during the warmer part of the year. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. 45Lt. PJABS
German
Bunte Gans C-5/6, Auros Vart 11, tel. (+370) 5 212
83 12, www.buntegans.lt. Bunte Gans churns out excellent
German cuisine and other dishes in this Old Town favourite. The
imaginative, good value food on offer includes schnitzels, brat-
wurst, bangers and mash, lamb, boar, beef steaks, fresh fish and
the house special dish of goose with fried potatoes and a host
of other vegetables. Theres live music during the weekends and
an extensive range of drinks including Riesling, Grauer Burgunder
and the recommended German beer Zoller-Hof from Schwabia.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. 35Lt.TJAEBSW
Georgian
NEW
Tiflisi-Dukani A-4, Naugarduko 12, tel. (+370) 656
228 05. Featuring pleasant dcor, an equall y agreeable
staff and some real magic taking place in the kitchen, Tiflisi
Dukanis menu features enough Caucasian cuisine to keep
mouths watering for months to come. Because this is a real
Georgian restaurant owned and run by people who know
their business, the staff are on hand to advise as to what
dishes to order. Highl y recommended are any of the Georgian
soups and the magnificent grilled meats. An extensive wine
menu and plenty of classic desserts finishes everything off
perfectl y.QOpen 10:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 23:00.
25Lt. PTAUVEBSW
i ngi schanas (Genghi s Khan) A- 3, J.
Basanaviiaus 8/1, tel. (+370) 619 128 16, www.
restoranas.net. Chefs from Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan,
Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan have all contributed their
own dishes to Lithuanias only truly authentic Central
Asian restaurant. Bursting with aromatic and spicy dishes
youve probably never eaten before, the dcor may be a
little on the kitsch side but then thats all part of the ex-
perience. Recommended for novelty value if not the food
itself. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PJUES
Central Asian
31
restaurants
Indian
Indian Maharaja B-3, Trak 4, tel. (+370) 662 116
00, www.indianmaharaja.lt. What star ted out as a
serious-looking contender to the unbeatable Sues Indian
Raja has over a relatively short period of time opted for the
tedious Li thuanian habi t of going downhill fast. You tend
to get what you pay for in life, which in the case of Indian
Maharaja is at best average Indian food that panders more
and more to local tastes. Although the food is by no means
bad, proper Indian food needs to be, well, proper, and this
is no l onger the case here. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri
11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. 15Lt.
PJAVSW
Sues Indian Raja B-2, Odmini 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 18
88, www.suesindianraja.lt. Cynics may baulk at the prices
here, but to anyone with a sense of what an outstanding
restaurant is all about, Sues Indian Raja is simpl y the best
place to eat in Vilnius and is consequentl y worth every penny.
Overseen with discreet showman flair by living legend Wing
Commander Rajinder Chaudhary, the exemplary dishes are
all made wi th hand-mixed spices for the absolute best in
authenticity. The staff are on hand to advise, the spiciness
of a dish can be raised or lowered on demand and the view of
the Cathedral is the absolute icing on the cake. The perfect
cure for just about any ailment, go for a selection of bhajis
and pakoras to start with and follow it up with the ul timate
Butter Chicken. Highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
30Lt. PTJAVBSW
International
Bistro 18 C-3, Stikli 18, tel. (+370) 677 720 91, www.
bistro18.lt. A combined restaurant and wine shop, Bistro
18 specialises primarily in dishes from the world of European
seasonal cuisine including French onion soup, risotto, pasta and
scores of meat-heavy dishes such as beef and rabbit. Theres
pudding too, and the aforementioned wine shop stocks a huge
selection of booze. Theres little sympathy for vegetarians here,
but if youre into classy dining on one of Vilnius poshest streets
this might just be the place for you. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PTJAUS
Cozy C-3, Dominikon 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 37,
www.cozy.lt. By the time most people read this Cozy
should be sporting new furniture, freshl y painted walls and
a highl y recommended photography exhibition on the walls,
al though this shouldnt prevent people from visiting before
the makeover. This Dutch-owned masterpiece is one of the
jewels in the crown of the Lithuanian capital, providing solace
for a wide range of creative and media types who keep coming
back because its friendl y, the foods very good and the bar is
Poni Laim C-3, Stikli 14/1, tel. (+370) 5 264 95
81. A combined patisserie and buffet restaurant with a
distinctly feminine feel to the place, this is eating in a hurry
at its best. The selection of ready-to-eat food may not be
the largest in town, but the dishes are imaginative, taste
superb and are, considering the location, excellent value
for money. Just make sure youve got some cash on you,
as they still dont take credit cards. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PTJS
Buffet express
one of the best bars in the city for getting delightfull y tipsy at.
Recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. 25Lt. PJABSW
32
restaurants
restaurants
NEW
Druskos Namai I-4, Uupio 30, tel. (+370) 5 215 30
04, info@druskosnamai.lt, www.druskosnamai.lt. The
philosophy behind the recentl y opened Druskos Namai is
to provide quali ty international food at affordable prices
sourced as much as possibl e from local farms. This is
generall y the best way to establishing yoursel f as a qual-
i ty restaurant as i t ensures both food to talk about and a
constantl y changing menu that keep the punters coming
again and again. Complete wi th a small outdoor courtyard
(booking at peak times is highl y recommended), we plucked
for the gazpacho, the perfect choice for daytime outdoor
eating, and a great li ttle dish of pork wi th cherry tomatoes
and mashed potato to die for. Certainl y worth the struggle
up the hill to get there. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. 30Lt. JABW
Esse G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 5 210 25 11,
www.esse.lt. A bustling restaurant in the city centre with an
emphasis on I talian and Li thuanian cuisine, well-trained staff
ferry a cavalcade of good-looking dishes to a predominantl y
business class clientle. Among the favouri te fare on offer
are the mussels in a wine and cream sauce plus a highl y
recommended changing business lunch menu served during
the working week between 11:00 and 16:00. Theres also
over 100 wines to choose from plus, for those who cant
stand to be away from the office, that Vilnius rari ty, free wire-
less internet. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 25Lt. PTJAEBSW
Grill Inn B-3, Dominikon 6, tel. (+370) 600 019 77,
www.grillinn.lt. Friendl y and well turned-out staff are on
hand to serve a range of superb, meat-heavy dishes and a
few peasant classics such as boiled pigs ears alongside a
good choice of beers from local small breweries. Theres a
choice of rooms in which to dine as well as the option of prop-
ping up the bar and getting quietl y sloshed, whilst during the
summer the addi tion of a small terrace out the back in which
a young member of staff is known to appear with a barbecue
and start grilling meat is a very welcome addi tion indeed.
Pretty much perfect for any occasion. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. JAUEBSW
Holy Mikos C-3, v. Mykolo 4, tel. (+370) 688 222
10, www.holymikos.lt. A small, famil y-run restaurant on
a quiet Old Town street specialising in both Li thuanian and
international dishes served in sumptuous surroundings,
the food is predominantl y nouvelle cuisine and is exqui-
si tel y presented. Theres also an imaginati ve, changing
dail y lunch special for a good price and a remarkabl y good
wine list. A good choice for the romanticall y inclined and/
or small business occasions, Hol y Mikos also features an
interesting selection of li ve music events. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 25Lt.
TJAESW
Jalta F-3, Vykinto 17a, tel. (+370) 636 102 52. Going
from strength to strength, Jal ta is an excellent reason to
visi t the leafy suburb populated wi th more than i ts fair
share of wooden houses thats vrynas. The food leans
in the direction of heal thy, offering plenty of dishes made
from locall y sourced ingredients whilst they also organise
a weal th of evening events including DJs in the greenhouse
in the front garden. Complete wi th a peaceful, tree-laden
terrace thats a real knockout during the warmer par t
of the year, expect plenty of red-eyed al ternati ve types
turning up on bicycles. Defini tel y recommended. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
25Lt. TENBSW
33
restaurants
Kalvarij 1 H-3, Kalvarij 1, tel. (+370) 671 786 76.
Sadl y no longer possessing their rather splendid outdoor
terrace, Kal varij 1 is still worth a visit if onl y for the unusuall y
friendl y staff. Touting itself as an international restaurant,
the place is more than a place to dine in, al though the food
is definitel y worth further investigation. This is also a fine
spot for a few drinks in the evening, attracting an interest-
ing mix of locals who, at least judging from our visits, tend
to be a little more livel y than the usual Vilnius restaurant
goer. A good option if you find yoursel f on the north side
of the river. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 24Lt.
TAESW
Kitchen C-3, Didioji 11, tel. (+370) 5 231 38 84. An
angular experience wi th pl enty of creamy shades and ex-
posed wooden features, this simple offering not onl y keeps
the dcor to a minimum but also doesnt get carried away
wi th the menu. The recommended dishes on offer include
a recentl y eaten plate of miniature fishcakes that despi te
their laughabl e size tasted superb. Theres an extensi ve
wine list too. A good choi ce for those wanting to impress
wi thout breaking the bank. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Closed
Sun, Mon June - August. 24Lt. PTJASW
La Pergola B-5, Ligonins 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22.
Whi te tablecloth gourmet dining in sumptuous surroundings
inside the Grotthuss hotel, or, during the warmer months,
on their lovel y terrace just off a quiet street in the heart of
Old Town. The menu of international dishes includes plenty
of options to keep everybody happy, and is accompanied
by an equall y admirabl e wine list. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. 60Lt. PTJAULBW
Coffee Inn A-2, Vilniaus 17, tel. (+370) 655 777
63. One of the hippest addresses in town, find two floors
of tables occupied by brightly coloured students taking
advantage of the free wireless internet and updating their
Facebook pages on their iPhones. Coffee, sandwiches,
muffins, juice etc. Also at Trak 7, Pilies 3, Gedimino 2,
Gedimino 9, Gedimino 24, Gedimino 52, Didioji 6, Didioji
40, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa).
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 -
24:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PJBSW
NEW
Salentino Caf C- 4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370)
676 820 15. Owned and operated by the club with
the same name inside the same building, this quaint
little caf overlooking Town Hall Square sells a range
of drinks and snacks and for the summer features
a super little terrace on which to sit and watch the
hordes of tourists go trudging by. QOpen 24hrs. 7Lt.
PJAVBSW
vieia Kava B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 260
96 53, www.svieziakava.lt. One of the countrys
top coffee house chains, vieia Kavas Gedimino 9
outlet is housed inside a bookshop no less, making
for the perfect environment to drink quality espresso
and the like amidst a wealth of literature. Keep an eye
out for their other branches around the city centre.
Also at Gedimino 35, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), Kon-
stitucijos 16 (VCUP), Ozo 18 (Ozas), Savanori 22, J.
Balikonio 3. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
PJAUSW
Cafs
34
restaurants
restaurants
NEW
Lauro Lapas A-2, Pamnkalnio 24, tel. (+370) 674
510 45, www.laurolapas.lt. A brave new venture by two
young local chefs promising both quality and innovation, Lauro
Lapas offers a limited choice of la carte dining plus dishes
from a dail y specials menu. The food features such rarities in
Lithuania as pheasant alongside a more conservative menu of
international food all cooked with panache and a twist. And if
you like twists, despite the food and wine subtext in the full
restaurant title, at the time of visiting they were still waiting
for an alcohol license. We hope to have a more substantial
review later in the summer. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. Closed Sun. 35Lt. JAW
Medininkai C-5, Auros Vart 8, tel. (+370) 600
864 91, www.medininkai.lt. One of Vilnius oldest and
most well respected restaurants serves up sumptuous
international food in a whi te tabl ecloth atmosphere in a
choi ce of several halls as well as outside in a lovel y 16th-
century courtyard during the summer. The menu features
all manner of good things, from fresh seafood to pasta to
some fine grill ed meat, all overseen by an award-winning
chef who maintains high standards throughout. Part of the
classy Europa Royal e hotel, diners can also take advan-
tage of the adj oining hotel bar before or after their meal.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. TJABSW
Neringa H-4, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 40 58,
www.restoranasneringa.lt. A former nomenklatura
favouri te and still pulling in the cream of the ci tys sli ghtl y
older sophisti cates, this posi ti vel y mammoth restaurant
features two dining halls separated by a bar wi th a fountain
in i t. Of parti cular interest are the ori ginal 1959 murals,
protected by the State along wi th much of the rest of the
interior. The international food on offer is good, honest
uvin C-4, Didioji 31, tel. (+370) 682 191 72,
www.zuvine.lt. From the same stable as the people
with the same name in Palanga, the place is now fully up
and running and serving a select range of predominantly
locally caught fish accompanied with all manner of fancy
additions. The style is very much upscale, the food is
impressive and the location inside the historical Town
Hall is more or less unbeatable. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
32Lt. PTJABSW
Fish
fare, al though not likel y to win any awards. The desserts
are parti cularl y fine, making this marvell ous insti tution
a good place to visi t regardl ess of whether youre after
a full meal or not. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:00
- 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. 30Lt.
PTJAUBSW
Prie Katedros B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 605 775
55, www.priekatedros.lt. Two recent visits to Prie Katedros
have both been entirely positive, not least in part to the totally
superb beer they brew on the premises of which the honey
variety tastes like no other beer weve tasted and leaves one
delightfull y wobbl y after just a couple. The food is also mag-
nificent, with the soups worthy of a massive round of applause
on their own. The beer snacks are excellent too, plus theres
free wireless internet and a spooky-looking hologram to greet
you at the bottom of the stairs. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu
10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. 30Lt. PTJABSW
35
restaurants
NEW
Rib Room H-3, eimyniki 1 (Holiday Inn), tel.
(+370) 5 210 30 12, www.ribroom.lt. The recentl y
refashioned restaurant inside Vilnius Holiday Inn hotel has
also seen a revamp of i ts menu. Whilst still offering an ex-
tensi ve range of international dishes, theyve reall y pushed
the boat out here and now include several rib dishes that
they claim to serve in surprisingl y di fferent ways. I t all
certainl y looks impressi ve, plus theres pl enty of other
options including a coupl e of classi c sandwi ches served
wi th fries, Crme Brle and one of the best-looking busi-
ness lunches in the ci ty. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
07:30 - 23:00. 40Lt. PTJAUBSW
Riverside H-3, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel
Lietuva), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 21, www.riverside.lt. Con-
sistentl y great food and service courtesy of this exemplary
in-house hotel restaurant, the well-chosen international menu
may not be the cheapest in the city but is worth the trip over
the river to sample from it. As well as serving one of the best
buffet breakfasts in town, theres also an excellent buffet lunch
and plenty of dishes from the menu until late. The outdoor
summer terrace, opposite the increasingl y popular area by
the river, is a fine place to visit, even if only for a drink. QOpen
06:30 - 23:00. 45Lt. PTAULBSW
Roast & Beer Pub B-1, Tilto 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 48 47,
www.roastandbeer.lt. A self-styled antidote to the stresses
of modern living, this Russian-owned venture is awash with
wooden benches, photographs of celebrities, cheery wait-
resses and upbeat pop music. Designed to resemble that old
favourite an English pub and aimed at a slightly older clientele
of 20-somethings and upwards, the menu focuses primarily
on English and Bavarian cuisine. Highly recommended is the
marvellous steak, egg and chips. As of the summer 2012 they
also have premises on Vilnius main street. Also at Gedimino
26. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
06:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PJASW
Sensus Grill & Wine B-2, Totori 16, tel. (+370) 5 261
46 93, www.bonussensus.lt. A very nice restaurant indeed
that also knocks out one of the citys better business lunches
during the week, this two-floored affair uses fresh ingredients
and even bakes its own bread. The menu includes a small
selection of good things including steak, grilled tuna, pasta
and a few decent soups. Theres a recommended drinks menu
to accompany too. An excellent choice for a sophisticated
blow out that wont break the bank. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. 18Lt. PTJABS
Sonnets D-2, Bernardin 8/8 (Shakespeare hotel), tel.
(+370) 5 266 58 85, www.shakespeare.lt. That rare treat
a hotel restaurant worth eating in, the Shakespeares in-house
nosh-pit excels where others barely get off the ground. Sumptu-
ous and elegant, everything here is polished to near perfection.
A diverse menu tempts diners with all manner of delicacies
from classic Lithuanian dishes to ostrich with chestnuts. All
overseen by friendly and efficient staff, the price tag may be a
little heavy but is worth every penny. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PTJALBSW
Tores I-4, Uupio 40, tel. (+370) 656 490 32, www.tores.
lt. Theyve got lovely distressed furniture inside, with a jumble
of chairs and tables ready for the demolishing of a small choice
of Lithuanian and international dishes including that rarity
cauliflower cheese, all washed down with a range of beers and
wines from around the world. What really sets this place apart
though is the terrace, one of the best in the city when its open,
and featuring a delightful view of Old Town spread out below.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. TABSW
36
restaurants
restaurants
VILNIUS TALLINN STOCKHOLM LONDON VIENNA AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG COLOGNE BUDAPEST

WWW.VAPIANO.LT
PIZZAS, PASTAS
13.90 LTL
10.90 LTL
starting
from
SALADS
starting
from
International fast-casual
restaurant concept
now in Vilnius!
Best venue in town!
Veranda F-2, Kstuio 39, tel. (+370) 5 273 01 07. Another
vrynas classic, Veranda is a great place to eat in, to have too
many beers with a friend in or to take a fussy elderly relative to.
The international and Lithuanian food is surprisingly good plus
theres a superb selection of booze including Guinness, Leffe and
draught Bernard. Theres live music several evenings a week, and
out the back is a large garden complete with barbecue for splen-
didly lazy Sunday summer afternoons. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. 16Lt. TAEBSW
Zoes Bar & Grill B-2, Odmini 3, tel. (+370) 5
212 33 31, www.zoesbargrill.com. Al though by no
means extravagant, you get what you pay for, whi ch here
is quali ty food prepared in an open ki tchen and served
by wai ting staff genuinel y happy to see you. The dcor
has an upmarket-diner feel to i t, plus there are a coupl e
of excell ent beers to compliment the food. Consistentl y
great, whi ch is a very rare thing indeed in this ci ty. Recom-
mended. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 23:00, Thu,
Fri 11:30 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
27Lt. PTJABS
Italian
Da Antonio B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370) 5 262 01 09,
www.antonio.lt. An old favourite with several embassies in
town, Da Antonio is everything an Italian restaurant should
be. Classy without any unnecessary frills and with superb
people-watching windows at the front, nati ve I talian chef
Manfredo Mol teni oversees a menu including fresh fish soup,
grilled beef fillet and a weal th of great pasta dishes for meat
eaters and vegetarians alike. Theres a great choice of Italian
wines to compliment plus some trul y gut-busting desserts
for those who can cram a little more in. Also at L. Stuokos-
Guceviiaus 1 (Amberton Hotel), Vilniaus 6/16. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. 50Lt.
PTJABS
Fiorentino C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 09
25, www.fiorentino.lt. A good choice of Tuscan dishes
with accompanying Tuscan wine, all overseen by an Italian
from the region with the kind of passion sadl y almost never
seen in the city. Inside its all plain white interiors and specials
chalked on the blackboard, whilst the warmer months add
a magnificent 16th-century Renaissance courtyard into the
bargain. Tuscany is of course considered the birthplace of
the Renaissance, so its rather fitting that the restaurant
should be here. Brilliant stuff. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00, Fri
11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt.
TJABW
Osteria da Luca B-4, Trak 11/2, tel. (+370) 679 594
20. Not your typical Italian restaurant, Osteria da Luca opts
for a more nouvelle cuisine approach to its cooking and does
it surprisingl y well. Situated inside a fine Old Town building
with a snazzy dining area at ground level and an atmospheric
cellar, theres also the option during the summer on its small
outdoor terrace opposi te the fine Franciscan Church. We
were particularl y impressed with the fresh pasta, al though
theres plenty more on offer besides but be warned that this
is nouvelle cuisine, meaning most of the things on the menu
arent going to fill you up. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 -
24:00. Closed Sun. 25 Lt. PABSW
Open Atidaryta
Closed Udaryta
Push Stumti
Pull Traukti
Door smarts
37
restaurants
St. Valentino B-3, Vilniaus 47/18, tel. (+370) 652
657 77, www.stvalentino.lt. An unbeatabl e l ocation
and years of good service mark St. Valentino out as one
of Vilnius most beloved and respected restaurants by the
citys business community and wealthy citizens who continue
to favour the place over any other. Whilst wolfing down a
plate of their excellent Italian food, expect to rub shoulders
with anyone from foreign millionaires to politicians to trophy
wives. Choose to dine in discreet comfort, with the help of a
television or, as the weather improves outside on their great
little people-watching terrace. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri
07:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 35Lt.
PTJABSW
Vapiano H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 5
238 34 89, www.vapiano.lt. Redolent of a millionaires
greenhouse, its all stone, marble and oak with a particular
emphasis on flora and natural light in here, the perfect en-
vironment in fact for quality Italian food in the city. Featuring
open kitchens making pasta, salads and pizza, the food is
made using fresh ingredients and comes in ample portions.
Weve eaten here four times now and cant complain at all.
A super place to eat in an area crying out for this kind of
quality. Note that the kitchen closes 30 minutes before they
lock the doors. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
20Lt. PTABSW
Japanese
Labuki C-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 88. With
suave surroundings and a choice of rooms including a main area
with large windows overlooking the Town Hall, Labuki offers a
wealth of dishes to please all tastes and budgets. The good-
looking sushi sets are well priced and flavoured, the tempura is
terrific and the solitary noodle dish with beef is absolutely out
of this world. The Korean chef also makes a mean soup and
the classic Oriental desserts are very good indeed. There are
fresh flowers on the tables, the service is friendly and theres
also a good value business lunch menu. People who prefer to eat
with a knife and fork are strongly advised to ask for them when
ordering their food. Also at Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 240 55
55. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PJAVBSW
Miyako H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 618
521 12, www.miyako.lt. Miyako provides the full Japanese
experience without shoving it down your throat. What you
should shove down your throat are selections from the sushi
and sashimi menus, all prepared in the front bar area, and
all very good indeed for Vilnius. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. 25Lt. PTAS
Soprano C-2, Pilies 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 60 42,
www.soprano.lt. Our last outing here involved enter-
taining a couple of under-sevens who demolished so
much cake and ice cream they had to be hosed down
before leaving. The treats on offer really are exceptionally
good at any time of year. The ice-cream is made locally
to a traditional Italian recipe. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
PJABSW
Ice-cream
38
restaurants
restaurants
Ren C-4, M. Antokolskio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212
68 58. The winner of the 2011 longest wait for food
competition by at least 30 minutes (the total time was
getting dangerously close to an hour and a half), Rens
various attempts at quirkiness through the connection
between its name and a certain Belgian artist are wearing
a bit thin to say the least. Bowler-hatted waitresses and
the opportunity to draw on the tables may have some in
raptures but when its all accompanied by a slip in general
standards the whole thing can start to look like a bit of a
joke. The food is good although by no means outstand-
ing and Belgian beer is now available in several places
around the city. When they get the food right here they
really get it right, but as with so many places in Lithuania
they just cant seem to get it right all the time. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. 28Lt. PTAUBSW
Studio 9 B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 698 529 99,
hello@studio9.lt. Yes, yes, yes and yes again! Hats off
to the good people of Vilnius who strive to make the city
a better place such as the owners of Studio 9, a marvel-
lous addition to the capitals list of places to go out. Re-
inventing the bar and grill experience by screwing angle
poise lamps to every available surface and promoting a
superb recorded and live music policy, theres hamburg-
ers to be had, beer to be drunk and a friendly crowd of
mostly young, educated and liberally-inclined locals
currently packing the place out. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,
Thu 10:00 - 03:00, Fri 10:00 - 05:00, Sat 11:00 - 05:00,
Sun 11:00 - 01:00. 20Lt. PJAEBS
Fun
Osaka A-2, Vilniaus 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 71 76, www.
osaka.lt. Recommended quality Japanese classic and modern
favourites including nigiri sushi, hoso maki, sashimi, pungent
spicy soups, noodles and more inside a wee little restaurant
between Old Town and Gedimino. Ideal for meals out, Osaka
also deliver and provide good value takeaway lunch sets. Unlike
many others in town, it also manages to keep its standards
high and is very well regarded by many who know a thing or
two about Japanese food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 -
23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt. PTJAVBSW
Shanti A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5 261 29 51. Reassur-
ingly pricey in the way only a Slavic-styled Oriental restaurant
can be, this is pure class without the unnecessary ostenta-
tious overkill. The food is gaining a reputation as being the real
deal, and everything appears to be in perfect working order.
The aforementioned reason for visiting stretches all the Asian
boundaries, with a menu featuring classic dishes from a number
of different regional cuisines as well as some truly outstanding
fushion offerings.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. TJABSW
Juice bars
Sulius B-2, Totori 15, tel. (+370) 603 531 02. Instantly
recognisable if youve ever been to Brighton or Berlin, this
handsome-looking li ttle juice bar that bears more than a
passing resemblance to a 1970s hippys kitchen also sells
a weal th of other things from biodegradable washing powder
to samosas. The juice in question, which could do with being
a little colder, is concocted by flustered girls with nose rings
to a soundtrack courtesy of Bob Marley. Limited seating is
available if you dont want to ingest your vitamins on the hoof.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
PJNSW
39
restaurants
Coco Restobar B-2, Labdari 8, tel. (+370) 5 212
29 09. A huge padded mirror over the door marks the
spot where Coco Restobar can be located. Inside is a
well though-out affair populated with a mostly young
and intelligent crowd who when theyre not drinking and
ogling the DJs take advantage of a cracking little chang-
ing menu of great experimental food with a distinctive
Asian twist. A small garden should also open as soon
as the weather improves. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu
11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PJABSW
Reini s The Cook evenkos 16a (Daikt
Viebutis), tel. (+370) 662 743 39. Reinaldas churns
out a range of interesting, good-looking dishes using a
blend of sound knowledge and improvisation. Somewhere
between a caf and a restaurant, find it inside one of the
most fashionable designer shops in the city. Top marks
for joining the 21st century. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. 15Lt. PTNSW
Fusion
Kebabs
Baku-Ceyhan C-2, Pilies 16, tel. (+370) 607 747 27,
www.eurodoner.lt. Dont let the stereotype fool you, for
what appears at first glance to be just another kebab shop is
hiding a proper restaurant serving not onl y excellent kebabs
in the finest Turkish tradition but whose menu also features
a few splendid dishes from Azerbaijan and Georgia. For those
who like their meat of the highest quality and prepared in a
way only those from the Caucasus can do, this is definitely one
for the 2012 dinner diary. QOpen 24hrs. 10Lt. JAS
Korean
Sura H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 277 70 00, www.
sura.lt. A brilliantl y thrown-together design of bare concrete,
flashing lights and a few more conservative elements sur-
round diners whilst they feast on a menu made up of mostl y
decent sushi plus a few classic Korean dishes. The pulkogi
was a bit lacking in vegetables but the beef was good and
the sauce was exceptional. They even serve it with short
grain rice for that final authentic touch. The giggling (home-
grown) waitresses are fun too, al though why they chose to
put it in a shopping centre in the middle of nowhere with a
rather depressing view is hard to fathom. Definitely worth the
bother anyway. A taxi there if called in advance is about 10Lt.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PTASW
Lithuanian Karaite
Kibin Inn A-2, Vilniaus 21, tel. (+370) 676 444 22,
www.kibininn.lt. Kibin, kybyn, kibinai, however you
choose to spell it, one of the most popular dishes in the east-
ern hal f of the country comes from the Li thuanian Karai te
(or Karaim), a mysterious Turkish sect embracing elements
of Judaism and Islam whove been resident in the area for
600 years and whose national dish is a Cornish pasty-type
affair usuall y filled wi th mutton or pork and dripping wi th
fat. Delicious indeed. This strangel y decorated Li thuanian
celebration of the food is currentl y the best place in town
to try them. QOpen 09:30 - 20:30, Sun 10:00 - 19:30. 6Lt.
PTJABSW
40
restaurants
restaurants
Mexican
Sofa de Pancho B-5, Vis ventj 5, tel. (+370) 673
890 02. We like whats currently going on in this part of town.
Like much of the service, openings may be slow but theyre
always interesting. Sofa de Pancho may not have any Mexicans
working in the open kitchen but that doesnt stop them from
being enthusiastic and actually not too bad at cooking. Prob-
ably the best thing about the place though, like the bar next
door, is that everythings been thrown together in a jumble-sale
fashion that quite simply adds a touch of class to a city with
just too many sterile restaurants. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Sat
13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 19Lt. TJABSW
Tres Mexicanos C-2, Tilto 2, tel. (+370) 674 186 00,
www.tresmexicanos.lt. Freshl y decorated for 2012, the
Mexican-owned Tres Mexicanos continues to be the best place
in town for authentic Mexican food. Boasting a superb location
just around the corner from the Cathedral, this intimate, brightly
decorated affair features all the classic dishes plus proper beer
to wash it down with, all overseen by people in the kitchen who
know how to make the stuff and waiting staff who can advise on
important issues such as which dish is likely to blow your head
off. Further proof that Vilnius is no longer a provincial backwater
but a city to be reckoned with. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 21Lt. PJABS
Pancakes
La Crepe A-1, Gedimino 13, tel. (+370) 616 465 49, www.
lacrepe.lt. Featuring a fairly gargantuan collection of pancakes
both sweet and sour in the perfect central location, as well as
serving the aforementioned blynai this is also a worthy place for
a quick coffee and a slice of cake. Popular with the local workers
in the area, the menu extends well beyond the pancake zone to
include hot dishes from both home and abroad and that all time
favourite, pizza. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat
10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. JAB
KFC G-3/4, J. Jasinskio 14, tel. (+370) 5 205 99
72. The main Vilnius address for the Lithuanian KFC
franchise is a large building located close to Gedimino and
the river in the city centre. Serving up all your favourite
KFC dishes, the place is genuinely worth a visit if youre
a fan of Colonel Sanders as, unlike many other places to
eat in town, the owners keep a close eye on things. They
also have counter on the top floor of the Ozas shopping
centre if you happen to be visiting. Also at Ozo 18 (Ozas).
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 15Lt. PTAUSW
McDonalds A-1, Gedimino 15, tel. (+370) 685
421 78, www.mcd.lt. Vilnius premier address for
their string of outlets in the city can be found on the
main street that leads to the Cathedral. The dcor inside
the large, two floor space has been specially designed
to give a local flavour, and youll find both the classic
McDonalds layout as well as a McCaf inside. Theres
also a small window where food and drink can be ordered
around the clock. Also at Sein 3, Kareivi 15, Ukmergs
173, Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 07:00 - 05:00. Open 00:00 - 05:00, 06:00 - 00:00
(Thu, Fri, Sat). Open 07:00 - 03:00 (Sun, Mon, Tue, Wed).
10Lt. PTJABSW
Fast food
41
restaurants
Pizza
Charlie Pizza C-4, Vokiei 3, tel. (+370) 695 304
11, www.charlie.lt. The nationwide Charlie Pizza chain
serves classi c and exoti c pizzas alongside other interna-
tional fare throughout the land. Their Old Town location
is on one of the best streets in the ci ty. Good value for
money any day of the week, keep an eye out for their
special offers whi ch make eating in Vilnius almost free at
times. For those wi th kids in tow, the Panorama branch
offers all kinds of incenti ves for young children to visi t. Also
at Pilies 8. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat
10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 18Lt. JA
ili Pica A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 90
71, www.cili.lt. The bibl e-proportioned menu includes
a fri ghtening array of decent pizzas as well as a small yet
well-chosen coll ection of pasta and meat dishes to boot.
Those who are generall y offended by the possibili ty of
smothering ones meal in tomato ketchup reall y should
try i t. I ts actuall y not that bad. To top i t all (so to speak),
the servi ce is usuall y very good indeed. Also at Didioji
5. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. 15Lt.
PTJAVBSW
Gourmet Pizza C-2, Gedimino 52/1, tel. (+370) 606 043
54. A novel approach to a pizza place, Gourmet Pizza comes
with its own deli as well as selling a small range of pre-cooked
pizza slices that rank among the best in town. Also serving an
average set business lunch, try to avoid during the middle of
the day as it gets stupidly chaotic to the point that even the
stoic locals leave the queue and go somewhere else. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 8Lt. TJASW
Pizza Hut Express H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5
259 61 28. Under new management and a much better
experience all round, Lithuanias adventures into the world
of pizza franchising are finall y worth talking about wi th a
positive spin. The slice of deep-pan pizza we recentl y gob-
bled down hit the spot exactl y. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 13Lt.
PTAUSW
Pomodoro A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 22, www.
pomodoro.lt. After numerous visits to several Pomodoro res-
taurants its still almost impossible to fault them. For the price,
the pizza and pasta are up there with the best, whilst the steak
continues to amaze and impress. Service is attentive, salads
lower their standard during the winter like they do anywhere in
the north, and the early morning pancakes continue to be a fine
way to start the day. Also at P. Lukio 32, Gotauto 40c. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. PTJAUBSW
Submarine B-3, Vilniaus 37, tel. (+370) 616 344 21,
www.submarinas.lt. Latter-day Teutonic Knights of the
pizza world, Submarine just wont leave Li thuania alone.
Preferring to serve Italian food rather than convert people
to Christianity, Submarine also provide free wireless inter-
net which is something the marauding Germans never did.
The pizzas are good for the price, the staff are genuinel y
friendl y and for lovers of trivia the place was named after
the make-believe yellow underwater vessel made popular by
the Beatles. Welcome to Vilnius. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00, Fri
08:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. 15Lt.
PTABSW
Uupio Picerija D-3, Paupio 3, tel. (+370) 5 215 36
66. Parked in a street just around the corner from the Uupis
Angel, this tip-top pizza joint is either bustling and busy or
dead as a door nail. Whatever state its found in, the pizza
they serve is decent enough if not exactl y gourmet. Eschew
the other meals and stick to the house food and youll be
just fine. Service is of course amusing, and the outdoor
seating during the warmer part of the year is exceedingl y
pleasant. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.
17Lt. JABSW
Russian
C H-2, eimyniki 3, tel. (+370) 5 272
86 18, www.carskojeselo.lt. Named after a former home
of the Russian royal family, these classic Russian-themed res-
taurants pander to the average crowd, are child-friendl y and
come with all the folk-themed trappings any self-respecting
restaurant of this kind needs. The food is exceptionall y good
for a chain restaurant, providing a fine introduction to the
cuisine of the worlds largest country. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 18Lt.
PTAEBS
Salad
Mano Guru B-2, Vilniaus 22/1, tel. (+370) 5 212
01 26. Opened in August 2004 and still going strong, the
recommended Mano Guru offers a mind-boggling array of
substantial salads plus desserts and soft drinks in some-
thing of a boutique setting. Popular particularl y with women
watching their weight, other people are encouraged to visit
not least because of the idea behind the place. Begun on
the initiative of local legend and resurrected mayor of Vilnius
Artras Zuokas, over half of the staff working here are re-
covering drug addicts invol ved in whats probabl y the most
enlightened project in the ci ty, and one thats well worth
supporting. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Fri 07:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. 15Lt. TJASW
42
restaurants
restaurants
Sandwiches
Gimme C-5, Auros Vart 4, tel. (+370) 685 006 84. Now
in its third incarnation and possessing its third name in as many
years, the best thing about this place was the fact that they some-
how managed to get a bus inside. Sadly, the new management
have seen fit to not exactly throw it out but to cunningly disguise
it so it just looks a bit like a bank. Out go the pancakes and the
kebabs and in comes a small choice of sandwiches including one
vegetarian option and a handful of soups. The location is unbeat-
able, although for the simple pleasure of eating meat wrapped in
bread we recommend the kebab shop at the far bottom of the
street on the right.QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 05:00, Sat
10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 9 Lt. JA
Soup
Sriubos Namai B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 683 152
56. Conjuring comparisons with 1930s Britain, Vilnius is at the
time of writing in a bit of a soup restaurant-opening mood. This
latest attempt, far from providing bland, vitamin-rich comfort
at rock-bottom prices produces bland, vitamin-rich comfort at
a mildly alarming cost. Add to this the addition of thin slices of
stale bread and what youve got is a sad attempt in a street
usually better known for its good food. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 12Lt. PTAUSW
Spanish
California Tapas & Wine C-5, Subaiaus 2, tel. (+370)
652 655 51, www.california.lt. Growing from strength to
strength, its a breath of fresh air to see a restaurant in Lithuania
improve over time rather than the usual opposite. Aiming to
introduce tapas to the local population among other things, this
Spanish-themed restaurant-bar on two floors provides a bit of
everything, from a first-floor caf complete with open kitchen
serving dishes including Basque fish soup to grilled meat to a
labyrinth of rooms downstairs for long evenings of eating and
drinking. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00.
16Lt. PTJABSW
Steak
Markus ir Ko C-3, M. Antokolskio 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 31
85, www.markusirko.lt. Serving various bits of cow to those
who can afford it for as long as many care to remember, Markus
ir Ko is an institution that fails to go away. Once famed for cook-
ing the best steak in the capital, this slightly casual yet definitely
upscale restaurant has long since been eclipsed by others but
still knocks out by almost everybodys account a damn fine steak.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 50Lt. PTJAESW
Meat Lovers Pub B-3, v. Ignoto 14, tel. (+370) 652
512 33, www.meatloverspub.lt. Cooking meat to perfection,
we had a steak that couldnt be argued with, a soup that was
up there with soups costing five times as much and some pork
that was absolutely the best meat weve eaten in Vilnius for
months. The service isnt great and there wasnt much in the
way of heating, but dont let these minor blips deter diners from
some of the best value meat in town. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. 25Lt. PTABSW
Steak House Hazienda D-3, Maironio 13 (Mabre Hotel),
tel. (+370) 5 212 13 89, www.mabre.lt. Using beef from
cattle grazed on Lithuanian grassland, Steak House Hazienda
has been through a bit of a wobbly period but is now back
on track. We recently demolished a sirloin steak which was
cooked perfectly and that came with an excellent choice of
garnishes. Beware of the complimentary appetiser of home-
made bread, as it may leave you with no space left inside to
finish the main course. A welcome return of high standards
from one of our old favourites. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 60Lt.
PTJAEBW
Sushi
Sushi Express G-3, J. Jasinskio 16a, tel. (+370) 699 693
43, www.sushiexpress.lt. Its a bit cheeky using the word
express in a restaurant name when waiting can easily take
40 minutes or so, but if you can put up with a long wait youll
probably be as impressed with Sushi Express as we are. The
local lad in their new Konstitucijos venue who makes the stuff
looks like hes only just stopped wearing short trousers but he
certainly knows his stuff. The menu is impressive, and the last
offering of tempura yasai we gorged on was absolutely spot
on. If not the best then certainly the most consistent place for
sushi in town. Also at Konstitucijos 20. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 16Lt. PABSW
Uzbek
aichana A-4, Naugarduko 14, tel. (+370) 611 411 19,
www.caichana.lt. Pay no attention to the garish dcor and
the bewildered staff bumbling about with grubby orange Crocs
on their feet and what youve got here is a truly outstanding
restaurant, assuming you eat meat that is. The lagman (lagh-
man) takes an age to arrive, but the homemade noodles and
exquisite sauce are more than worth the time and effort the
chef put into them. Also on offer on the Lithuanian-only menu
are Uzbek kebabs, lots of delicious dishes made with fresh
yoghurt, a recommended mantai (manti) and hot bread made
on the premises. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 22:00,
Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
17Lt. PTJAUSW
43
restaurants
NEW
Uzbekistanas A-1, Vienuolio 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 04
29. A trul y wel come addi tion to Vilnius restaurant scene,
Uzbekistanas operates on the posher end of the dcor
scale but stays true to the cuisine of the country the place
is named after. The onl y probl em here is knowing what
to choose, ei ther because Uzbek food has passed you
by entirel y or because every dish demands to be eaten.
Amidst a fine sel ection of i tems on the menu including a
chayhana plov that needs to be ordered 90 minutes in
advance alongside the more usual plov we went for the
lagman, a spi cy lamb and noodl e soup thats almost a
meal in i tsel f and a plate of manti, essentiall y oversized
ravioli wi th soured cream that were both prepared and
cooked to perfection. I ts a bi t pri cey here, but well worth
the expense. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
25Lt. PTJAUVEBSW
Vegetarian
Balti Drambliai B-3, Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 262 08
75. Struggle down a set of wobbly medieval steps to a cacoph-
ony of sitars and whale songs to be served a range of average
vegetarian fare from a menu that regularly changes colour but
more or less stays the same otherwise by waitresses whose
cigarette breaks often bring them back inside with big grins on
their faces. Welcome to the crazy world of Balti Drambliai (White
Elephants), the restaurant that didnt put the hip in hippy but
thats worth a visit all the same. The foods cheap and perfectly
safe, and the live music and parties can be fun, especially when
its warm outside and they open up their legendary terrace.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PJABW
Raw42 B-5, Rdnink 12, tel. (+370) 659 530 29,
www.raw42.lt. Recentl y popping up in another li ttl e
triangl e of Vilnius currentl y making something of a name
for i tsel f, the food stretches beyond sandwiches and they
even offer short courses in making food. Very trendy and
very wel come, note that none of the food is cooked at a
temperature hi gher that +42C. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 10Lt. JNBS
Raw Raw C-2, Totori 3, tel. (+370) 699 520 22, www.
rawraw.lt. Recentl y upping sticks and moving to far more
sensible location, Raw Raw is a slightl y misleading name
because they use ovens, al though the bread is dried not
cooked. That aside, what they do produce is good heal thy
food made from unprocessed ingredients. The menu is fairl y
extensive and includes everything from vitamin-packed salads
to pasta dishes made from vegetables. Also a good selection
of freshl y squeezed fruit juices. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. 15Lt. PTJABS
Vegaf C-4, Augustijon 2/13, tel. (+370) 659 770
72. An excell ent li ttl e addi tion to Vilnius small sel ection
of vegetarian restaurants, this one features an impressi ve
menu of dishes made from fresh ingredients and wi th a nod
in the general direction of Asia. The freshl y squeezed frui t
jui ces are especiall y good here and the food comes in all
shapes and sizes from simpl e snacks to full blown meals.
Also at Totori 3. QOpen 11:00 - 21:30. 11Lt. JS
Vieta B-3, v. Ignoto 12-1, tel. (+370) 687 134 75.
I ts all funny haircuts, constant references to ganja and
A Tribe Call ed Quest inside Vilnius newest vegetarian
restaurant. Friendl y i f your face fi ts and good value for
money, the foods basi c but edibl e, al though wri ting the
menu on one of the tablecloths is a bi t sill y. QOpen 11:00
- 02:00. 10Lt. TJW
44
nightliFe
nightliFe
The Lithuanian capitals disparate nightlife options run the
breadth of all things imaginable for any taste and budget,
from quiet cafs full of serious-looking men huddled over a
game of chess to steamy underground caverns dedicated
to the time-honoured pursuit of getting ordinarily level-head-
ed businessmen so horribly drunk that they willingly empty
the contents of their bank account inside a strippers knick-
ers. Now that the citys wine-drinking crowd have been given
their own places to imbibe, Vilnius nightlife entrepreneurs
are turning their attention to the subject of beer, namely
with the regular opening of a new place selling warm brown
froth made in small microbreweries around the country. The
best are of course listed here. Clubs remain almost exclu-
sively mainstream, whilst the citys gay and lesbian scene
is almost as far underground as a Soviet nuclear test site.
With the exception of perhaps Pyongyang, no capital city in
the world is without its more sinister side, and that includes
Vilnius. Violence and alcohol occasionally combust into
fisticuffs, and with wages to make a sweatshop worker stay
in bed its no surprise to learn that wallets, mobile phones
and even the occasional camera disappear from ineptly at-
tended tables, pockets and bags. Finally, face control is ever
on the rise. If yours doesnt fit, forget it. Have fun!
Bars
Alaus Studija E-1, S. ukausko 20, tel. (+370) 685
608 85. Exactly why it took just over a thousand years for
somebody to open a really outstanding bar in Vilnius is anyones
guess, but open it they finally did. True, the location could be
more central, but when its as good as this theres no particular
need to complain. Selling only foreign beers alongside a few
stronger options and decorated with leftover technology from
the recently expired Lithuanian Film Studios, the Murphys is
refreshingly affordable and goes down a treat. A menu of bar
snacks is also available, plus theres hot nachos, nuts and
blankets for chilly spring evenings sat outside on the terrace.
A taxi from Old Town shouldnt cost more than 10Lt. Highly
recommended. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00,
Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PAB
Amatinink Ueiga C-4, Didioji 19/2, tel. (+370) 687
223 66. An Old Town institution popular with locals and tour-
ists alike, the service here has always been pretty bad even at
the best of times al though thats never stopped the punters
from coming. The nondescript interior fills during the colder
part of the year with a motley collection of inebriated locals
whilst the sprawling outdoor terrace continues to be one of
the most popular drinking spots in the city. If you can handle
the wait, the food is edible and, best of all, famousl y keeps
arriving on your table until sunrise. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 07:00. PJABW
NEW
Entry C-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 624 943 17. Hovering
mid-way between sports bar and a pool venue, this place
just makes it into this section on account of the 12 plasma
screens that show regular local and international sporting
events. Theres a decent bar too, and even the option to eat.
As for its pool venue credentials, find six excellent pool tables
and a further table for snooker. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00. PJNSW
Fortas H-4, Algirdo 17, tel. (+370) 652 011 38, www.for-
tas.eu. Despite its slightly crappy beer collection, Fortas can
do no wrong. Perched up on top of the hill above Old Town, this
always busy spot plays host to everyone from shady-looking
Russian-speakers without any hair to immaculately turned out
Japanese tourists. Perfect for an outdoor summertime drink
despite the appalling view and equally rewarding indoors, it
would be unfair to not mention the food, which is consistently
marvellous. Top banana. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PABW
Gringo A-3, Vilniaus 31/1, tel. (+370) 654 905 41. The
friendly bar staff certainly make a change from many others in
the area, and the cold beers on offer are both well chosen and
priced (Gringo currently serves one of the best pints of Guinness
in the region). Also find the added incentives of free wireless
internet and table football. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Tue, Wed
11:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. JABW
Hats off to the merry innkeepers of Vilnius, whove
simultaneously realised the potential of the city centres
empty spaces and stuffed great big bars in several
of them. This may seem somewhat pass to many a
reader but for the locals its literally a breath of fresh air.
Even better, most, if not all by the time this sentence is
finished, come with a clutch of DJs to help swing things
along. The following list is far from complete, but does at
least represent the best of the bunch. All listed venues
will be open until the end of the good weather, some
time around the start of October.
Sensus Terasa B-2, Totori 13, tel. (+370) 5
261 46 93, www.bonussensus.lt. Occupying the
former Chaplin Terasa space for those who remember
it, the good people at Sensus Bar & Grill have caught
the summer terrace bug and are at the time of going to
press fighting the elements with this cracking outdoor
space mid-way between Old Town and Gedimino. A good
alternative to most of the other summer terraces in town
that tend to attract a younger crowd, this one aims to
keep a broader public whilst keeping the summer bar
tradition of serving cold beer and providing a range of
evening entertainment. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
14:00 - 24:00. JAB
Vasaros Terasa B-3, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370) 620
856 89. Inside the large Mokytoj Namai courtyard,
Vasaros Terasa (Summer Terrace) functions as all
things but is most comfortable in its role as a bar. A
great location for a drink any time of day, the people who
come here tend to be young and about as alternative
as it gets in Vilnius. Service is consistently dreadful, but
once youve resigned yourself to the fact that theres
nothing you can do about it, its definitely one of the
top summer spots in the city. The courtyard also plays
host to a regular supply of music acts and DJs as well
as the occasional work of art. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri
11:00 - 03:30, Sat 12:00 - 03:30, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
JEBXSW
Vienuolyno Kiemas B-3, Trak 9/1. Currently the
top venue among the citys outdoor drinking spaces,
this place is embarrassingly difficult to find for some
people who claim to call Vilnius home. Find friendly
staff, affordable drinks, a family atmosphere, plenty of
wooden platforms for tripping over and the best pick
of the DJs currently playing to outdoor crowds in the
capital. The marvellous setting is somewhat ruined by
a proliferation of massive umbrellas (heres a tip for you
Vienuolyno Kiemas, why dont you take them down when
its not raining eh?), although after the sixth beer youll
hardly notice. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. JE
Summer Bars
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NEW
Leiiai C-4, Stikli 4, tel. (+370) 5 260 90 87. The
next logical step in the evolution of the specialist Lithuanian
beer bar, Leiiai also doubles as a restaurant serving clas-
sic tradi tional local food. As well as a space for drinking
the range of superb Li thuanian beers on offer from small
microbreweries around the country, this pleasant watering
hole also features two dining halls, one with an open kitchen
and a small beer garden out the back. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
PJABSW
Marsas B-3, Trak 15, tel. (+370) 616 513 77. The
former Bobo is now called Marsas, and although theyre do-
ing their very best to offer something interesting and slightly
alternative like their predecessor, its all a bit vague in here.
Theres a good range of alcohol behind the bar, an imagina-
tive menu (the burger and fries are supposed to be very good
indeed) and a prerequisite DJ, but its not really working out
in our opinion. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00,
Sun 14:00 - 02:00. JAW
(M)isterija B-2/3, Totori 18, tel. (+370) 5 212 50 51,
www.misterija.lt. Popular with a regular crowd of friendly hedon-
ists, the drinks menu is fairly impressive and the food is more than
edible. Extras at press time include board games, a regular pub
quiz which can be translated into English for non-native-speakers,
themed weekend parties and a policy that encourages people
to dance on the bar if they feel so inclined. The website features
photographs of girls in bras and gentlemen on stag dos. You get
the idea. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 18:00 -
06:00, Sun 18:00 - 04:00.PJASW
Piano Man A-2, Islandijos 1/31, tel. (+370) 650 969
25. Consistently busy during the weekend when propping up
the bar is generally the only option left for people arriving after
21:00, the mixed and predominantly chirpy crowd at Piano Man
provides a buzz lacking in many of its competitors. The bar
stocks a good range of drinks including draught Guinness and
Hoegaarden, theres table football in the corner and from time
to time theres also the added bonus of live music. An excellent
choice indeed for anyone looking for a place to add to their pub
crawl or for staying the course and spending the entire evening
here. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 16:00
- 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PJAB
Plieno Pauktis H-4, K. Kalinausko 11b, tel. (+370) 5
231 21 81. Blink and youd miss it, the Steel Bird is one of
those rare finds that leads to something akin to a love affair
once discovered. Discreet during the winter, this is the perfect
place for a fireside tryst, whilst the warmer parts of the year
trumpet the opening of a magnificent secluded garden. Full of
staff from the American embassy during the week, the place
is given back to the locals at the weekend and is well worth
the treck up the hill. Recommended is their cheese-covered
kepta duona, a real treat with a couple of ice-cold beers.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. AB
Pogo A-2, Vilniaus 12, tel. (+370) 604 195 67, www.
pogobaras.lt. You can say what you like about rock fans but
you cant deny the fact that the ones who opened Pogo should
be hugged and generally smothered in affection. Risking their
necks transforming an empty Chinese restaurant into a bar
with a live music venue at a time when the economy was
falling to pieces, our heroes have been rewarded with a loyal
clientele of lads and lasses in leather and a damn fine place
to drink if this is your sort of thing. The beer is stupidly cheap
and the kepta duona is what drinking was invented for. Totally
recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri 18:00 - 06:00, Sat
18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PJAEW
MC C-4, Vokiei 2, tel. (+370) 656 756 17. Round
the back of the Contemporary Arts Centre and equipped
with staff and clientele to suit, al though its a bit cramped
and frequentl y morose indoors during the colder part of the
year the arrival of the citys clement weather brings with it
a concrete terrace that can get extremel y livel y during the
evenings. An interesting option for a drink and the possibility
of meeting some of the citys more imaginative inhabitants
and even play chess if you so desire. Not bad food either.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJABSW
Transilvanija B-4, Msini 3, tel. (+370) 5 203 43
79. A good old-fashioned beer-drinking venue popular with
a 20-something crowd and with a penchant for rock music,
Transilvanija recently moved to a great new Old Town location
and continues to bring in the crowds. Featuring an excellent
stock of booze and a weekl y pub quiz on Wednesdays at
19:00, the latest news is the opening on May 1 of a large
beer garden in the square opposite. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PJAB
Universiteto Pub B-3, Dominikon 9, tel. (+370) 678
833 63. A slightly streamlined Universiteto has shed its wine
and sports appendages and is now functioning more or less as
a bar with a backup plan of pub grub and the occasional student
party. With a clutch of worthy drinking holes in the immediate
area, this one-time expat favourite has had a hard time since
it relaunched, but it seems to be doing ok with a more rowdy
crowd of local youngsters who appreciate the affordable prices
and endless procession of blondes. A great people-watching
pub, although almost certainly not one for spending the entire
evening in. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Tue, Wed 22:00 - 05:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PJAW
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Clubs
Due to the universal law stating that its impossible to be in
all places at all times, the club reviews in this guide are writ-
ten to provide a general overview of whats to be expected
if you visit them. As any serious clubber already knows,
nights change with alarming regularity, good promoters
come and go and expected crowds fail to turn up. The good
news about clubbing in Vilnius is that entrance prices are
relatively low and the city is remarkably small. If you happen
to stumble on a non-event, relocating to another club is
both quick and affordable.
Brodvjus B-4, Msini 4, tel. (+370) 652 577 90,
www.brodvejus.lt. Celebrated for the slightl y creepy fact
that this is arguably the top spot in town for visiting foreigners
of a questionable age to leer at teenage girls, downstairs is
primaril y for dancing, spilling drinks and getting stuck in con-
versations with local simpletons, whilst the quieter upstairs
bar is al ways worth a go, especiall y if you want to sit down.
Still hugely popular, live acts include everything from DJs whod
find it hard to get a gig at a wedding to the occasional decent
band. QOpen Mon 22:00 - 02:00, Tue 20:00 - 03:00, Wed,
Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00.
Entrance free - 20Lt. PJAEW
Cocainn B-2, Gedimino 2a, tel. (+370) 600 478 62.
Occupying three main rooms catering to different tastes,
theres a lounge for cocktails and the dreaded Tuborg, a
quiet room where guests can eat from a menu of gourmet
dishes and a good old-fashioned night club with dancing girls
dressed as nurses among other things. Theres also a place
for smoking cigars. The perfect introduction to Eastern Euro-
pean nightlife. QOpen Tue 22:00 - 04:00, Wed, Thu 22:00
- 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Entrance
10Lt. PJAXW
Opium A-2, Islandijos 4. Located in the brickwork bowels of
Briusly, Opium is the brainchild of a small group of like-minded lo-
cal DJs of some pedigree, each with their own distinctive take on
the world. Its a bit cramped down here, but for purists looking
for some of the best DJs in the country there are few places to
beat it at the moment. Opium is also currently one of the places
to catch the legendary and highly recommended Mondayjazz
sessions. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
Sat, Sun. Open from September 1. Entrance 10Lt. J
Pabo Latino A-4, Trak 3/2, tel. (+370) 5 262 10 45,
www.pabolatino.lt. Featuring three halls and two bars of
sheer class, Pabo Latino is an oasis of Latin culture in a country
where human warmth is far from overwhelming. A tough but fair
door policy keeps the low life out, meaning what you get inside
is a well behaved bunch of good-looking people out for a fun
evening in pleasant albeit sometimes frenetic surroundings.
The music is both live and courtesy of DJs, the cocktail menu
is massive and if you dont know how to dance Latin style, they
even organise lessons for anyone willing to give it a go. QOpen
Thu 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. Entrance 15 - 30Lt. PJAEBW
Salento DiscoPub C-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 676 820
15, www.salentodiscopub.com. Nights of foam in which
the ladies get all wet and lathery, cheap offers on cocktails,
deckchairs, large television screens and a predominantl y
young crowd are the things to expect inside this heaving Old
Town favourite. The brainchild of Italian Piero, the idea is to
bring an Italian and Spanish pub-disco feel to the Lithuanian
capital. Each night promises a different theme, with music
focusing on pop and old favourites. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.
Entrance free - 25Lt. PJAEB
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Seacret C-4, Vokiei 2, tel. (+370) 670 232 37, www.
seacret.lt. This Old Town club created by the owners of
several successful Vilnius businesses offers cocktails from
freshl y squeezed juice, juggling barmen, DJs, live music and
dancers. According to the people who run the place, visitors
are promised a mysterious atmosphere, helped along no
doubt by the fact that theyre also proud to announce that the
name of the club cleverl y conceals the words sea and secret.
QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Thu 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. Entrance free. PJAEBW
Cocktails
Alchemikas A-2, Islandijos 1, tel. (+370) 612 998 00. Its
about time a cocktail bar came along that was more about the
art of cocktails than the pretence of the cocktail bar sensation.
Specialising in both classic and modern mixed drinks, its worth
paying them a visit just to have a peep at the extraordinary
interior, and if you do choose to stick around, expect to be
bankrupt by the end of the evening thanks to the addictive
allure of their magnificent mixology. Recommended. QOpen
Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. JAB
Berlin A-2, Islandijos 1/31, tel. (+370) 609 616 16. If it
really was in Berlin it wouldnt be open for long, this rather half-
arsed attempt at sophistication seems to think expensive
clothes are more important than cul ture. Excellent for ogling
doll y birds and little else, Berlin is at least in the part of the
city thats currentl y opening new and decent venues at the
drop of a hat. Theres plenty more to choose from less than
a minute away if you dont like it. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJB
Blusyn Lounge C-4, Saviiaus 5, tel. (+370) 605 191
27. Recently reinventing itself as a cocktail bar has in no way
compromised one of Vilnius more quirky and original bars, a
compact affair with an improved garden out the back and a menu
of dishes including some great soups and one of the capitals
better burgers. Popular with Vilnius trendier individuals this is a
great choice for summer drinks and the chance to meet some
of the citys more interesting locals. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PJBW
Mojitos B-2, Totori 11, tel. (+370) 601 125 55. Woe
betide any Cuban or anybody whos been to Cuba who
ventures through the door of Mojitos, because as was to be
expected this place is about as Cuban as the Helms-Burton
Act. Billing itself as a Cuban cocktail bar, al though theres
nothing wrong with their cocktails theyre not exactly the sort
of thing that would set Havana alight, whilst the food is best
left undiscussed (and in the kitchen). The good news is that
on the saucy scale it doesnt do a bad job at all, with plenty
of sexy young things in their underwear jiggling about until the
early hours. A good night out for a bit of fun, if youre looking for
something more authentic youd better start saving for a flight
across the Atlantic. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00,
Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PJAB
Pantera A-2, A. Smetonos 5, tel. (+370) 657 614 45. Cur-
rently open just a couple of nights a week, Pantera is the latest
cocktail bar to come crashing onto the scene in a city that quite
frankly could do with a decent one. In the same capable hands
as the people who run the best club in Kaunas, nights here are
busy and fun although its arguably easier to get a visa for North
Korea than make it past face control here. Word on the street
from those handsome enough to have gained the approval of the
beauty police on the door report back nothing but very good news
indeed. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
Open from September 1. Entrance free. PJA
Paparazzi B-2, Totori 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 35, www.
paparazzi.lt. Recently moving next door, Paparazzi continues
to dazzle in the way onl y Lithuanians can dazzle with plenty
on offer to help the cocktails go down. Popular with a young-
ish, after-work crowd, each evening sees something different
going on from a pub quiz to table football tournaments to live
jazz. The websi tes in Li thuanian onl y but a quick Google
translate provides enough to get the general idea of what to
expect over the coming summer. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PJAW
Shooters A-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. (+370) 655 525 17,
www.shooters.lt. Over 300 cocktails and the promise of
being smothered with attention await visitors to this friendly,
ever-so cocktail bar-looking cocktail bar. Complete with juggling
bartenders, wacky furnishings and the cream of Vilnius hip cat
community, other delights include special theme nights and a
range of nibbles to stave off the hunger. Former visitors should
take note that theyve recently upped sticks and moved around
a couple of corners. Beyond that its business as usual. QOpen
17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PJAW
Wine
In Vino C-5, Auros Vart 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 10,
www.invino.lt. Catching on to the current craze for wine bars
in the city early on, theyve obviously got a real appreciation for
wine of which they stock a fair amount. Perhaps best enjoyed
on a Friday or Saturday night, this is one of the best places in
town to mingle with the cream of the citys C-list celebrities.
One bone of contention though, namel y a serious lack of
toilet facilities. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00.
PJAUBSW
Attitudes towards all
manner of mi nori ty
groups in Lithuania are
slowly changing for the
better, with a handful
of brave i ndi vi dual s
spearheading their re-
specti ve campai gns
armed with a combina-
tion of courage and a firm understanding of Lithuanian
law. One such person is the openly gay 22-year-old film
director Romas Zabarauskas, who recently returned to
Vilnius after a period of mind-altering study in New York.
Already gaining support for his day job from the likes of
Gus Van Sant and John Cameron Mitchell, Zabarauskas
recently turned his attention to the gaping chasm between
attitudes towards the LGBT communities in New York and
Vilnius in the form of a spontaneous decision to contact
Vilnius bar and restaurant owners to see if they were
willing to put small LGBT Friendly stickers (pictured) on
the doors and windows of their premises. Despite the
usual whinging and threats from certain conservative
members of the local Municipality, reactions have been
overwhelmingly positive, the result being that a growing
number of venues in the Lithuanian capital now proudly
proclaim their support for the LGTB community. This is
good news for everyone, including LGBT visitors to Vilnius
who no longer have to play a game of Russian roulette
when visiting bars and restaurants that may or may not be
owned and frequented by knuckle-heads. Vilnius In Your
Pocket would like to congratulate Romas and the other
people who worked on the project and looks forward to
continuing to write about an increasingly friendly city.
LGBT Friendly
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La Bohme B-3, v. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 212 10
87. They still cant cook pasta but they do at last have a
space to drink outside when its warm, making Old Towns
favouri te upscale boozer better than ever. The grandiose
medieval interior is perfect for group celebrations (al though
you should definitel y think twice before ordering the pasta),
and the wine list is both thoughtful and extensive. All in all a
most suitable venue for everyone from passing lads on the
pull to a coach-load of grandmothers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. JABSW
Mimoza/Vinchenso A-2, Islandijos 1/33, tel. (+370)
652 935 87. A li ttle bi t of everything here inside one of
the latest sensations to appear on the scene. Crowded
much of the time, i ts both a classy wine bar complete
wi th shop as well as an Asian restaurant ser ving the
usual coll ection of dishes including butterfish sashimi,
tofu soup, a range of tasting dishes and a couple of veg-
etarian options. Get here earl y if you want a seat and rub
shoulders wi th some of the capi tals prettier specimens.
On top of everything else, theyre attempting to woo even
more customers by booking some decent DJs. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00.
PJAESW
Notre Vie C-3, Stikli 10, tel. (+370) 614 245 21. Yet
another wine bar, this one is small and intimate with friendl y
staff and a good selection of booze and snacks. Al though
nothing to get too excited about, it is at least the real thing
unlike so many of the others in Vilnius. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00.
PJABSW
Savas Kampas C-4, Vokiei 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 32
03, www.savaskampas.lt. Well this is a surprise. Certain
that Savas Kampas was on the way out in the last issue,
were now forced to eat a slice of humble pie. Constantl y
busy and with friendl y staff to boot, we didnt try the wine the
last time we were here but the beer went down well and the
atmosphere was excellent. Savas Kampas is without doubt
a survivor. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri
11:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. JABW
Tappo Doro B-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus 7, tel. (+370)
686 168 66. Hidden away between the Cathedral and the
Presidents Palace, this little gem adds yet another string
to the maestros bow also known as contemporary Vilnius.
Hitching a ride on the coat tails of the citys current obses-
sion with wine bars and gourmet food, Tappo Doro is part
wine bar and part delicatessen. As well as a chilled cabinet
full of speciality meats, cheese and olives, find a tastefull y
decorated drinking area complete with a long list of Italian
wines. Massivel y busy in 2010, the owners have gone and
opened a second bar in the heart of Old Town. Also at Vokiei
8. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JABS
Microbreweries
For the record, our definition of a microbrewery includes
bars selling beer from microbreweries scattered around
the country. Enjoy.
Bambalyn C-3, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 5 240 56 70.
Featuring a rapidl y approaching total of close to 100 types of
beer from microbreweries across the country and a spooky
brick cellar ambience, Bambal yn counts among a number
of specialist bars in the city catering to the tastes of those
who like their ale local rather than mul tinational. The beers
in question range from light to dark and should keep all but
the fussiest from hours of drunken appreciation. A little bit
classier than its counterparts, the bar is fashionable among
the capitals more urbane guzzlers, plus theres a shop inside
and a beer-tasting lounge for true aficionados. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PJAW
Bsi Treias B-2, Totori 18, tel. (+370) 5 231 26
98, www.busitrecias.lt. Meaning something along the
lines of Youll be the third, which in this part of the world
spells bad luck, Bsi Treias functions as one of the capi-
tals onl y microbreweries as well as a better than average
place to dine on gut-busting local dishes. Downstairs is
a genuinel y good bar, whilst the large upper level has the
feel of a demented German beer hall complete wi th soz-
zled groups of locals singing patriotic songs and falling
off the wooden benches. The in-house beer is good stuff,
al though we recommend you steer clear of the flavoured
versions. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.
PJABW
nekutis B-5, v. Stepono 8, tel. (+370) 650 470 58.
Not a microbrewery as such, nekutis sneaks into this sec-
tion on account of hoarding traditional, microbrewery-brewed
beers from all corners of the country. Some of this is live,
meaning it onl y lasts a few days, not unlike the hangover
that goes with the superb 12% Staias from Panevys. A
couple of large ones of these and you might find yourself
rolling down the mysterious staircase by the toilet. Should
this happen, dont be surprised to find yourself fished out
by the barman, a personable gentleman wi th a theatrical
moustache. Highl y recommended, and extremel y popular,
meaning its not uncommon to find yourself sharing a bench
wi th a strange Li thuanian man eating unidentified animal
parts from a bowl. Rare for Lithuania, nekutis doesnt have
table service. Order at the bar. Also at Polocko 7a. QOpen
11:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun. PJS
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You have a jolly smashing face
Tavo veidelis klaikiai graus
Can I buy you a drink?
Galiu pavaiinti grimu?
Golly, youre a fabulous dancer!
Vajetau, tu oki nuostabiai!
Get your coat sweetie, youve pulled
Susirink skudurus, zuiki, ir varom
Club smarts
Live music
Tamsta D-5, Subaiaus 11a/1, tel. (+370) 5 212 44 98,
www.tamstaclub.lt. A brave attempt by the people who run
the excellent music shop downstairs to bring live bands of
many persuasions to a half-starved audience. Music ranges
from jazz to art-rock to old fashioned rock and roll, theres a
long bar to keep everyone fed and watered, plus once a month
they organise a so-called Open Mic Day where outsiders can
come and improvise along with other like-minded musicians.
QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Fri 19:00 - 03:00, Sat 19:00 - 02:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Open from September. Entrance 7 -
30Lt. JAE
Cabaret
New York H-2, Kalvarij 85, tel. (+370) 699 155 87,
www.newyorkclub.lt. Opened in 2004 in the style of an
old-fashioned musical theatre, New Yorks finally found its feet
as more of a live music club than anything else. Set among
authentic theatrical dcor, evenings here include everything
from the occasional cabaret act to all sorts of music shows to
the theatres long-running play, Urvinis mogus (Defending the
Caveman). See their website for more information. Q Opening
hours depend on repertoire. Entrance 20 - 70Lt. PAE
Adul t entertainment
Vilnius In Your Pocket doesnt mention what ones ex-
pected to pay for alcohol and other services in the places
listed in the Adult entertainment section of this guide.
Although by no means expensive relatively speaking, strip
clubs here arent exactly cheap. The memorable story of
a visiting businessman from a country that shall remain
nameless suffering an attack of serial private dancing and
then not being able to pay his bill is one of many similar
tales, and is worth remembering, especially if, as in the
case of this gentleman, its someone from your embassy
that has to get up in the middle of the night and sort it out.
So, please, before you indulge too much, make sure you
know exactly what youre getting yourselves into.
Soho G-4, vitrigailos 7/16, tel. (+370) 699 395
67, www.sohoclub.lt. One main space for drinking
and chatting and another for dance-orientated activi-
ties both sub-divided even further and decorated in the
style of a vampires Council house. Punters have the
chance to send SMS messages to a large screen for
the purposes of making mobile phone companies rich.
QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
Entrance free - 20Lt. A
LGBT
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Nes Casi no (Pr amog Bankas) A- 2,
Pamnkalnio 7/8, tel. (+370) 700 555 55, www.
nese.lt. Q Open 24hrs. PJ
Casinos
Dolls H-3, Konstitucijos 18, tel. (+370) 5 272 84 82.
Dollicious! This is an absolutel y fantastic place to indulge in
the trul y titillating. Outstanding dancers, some of the best in
town, are willing to wiggle and jiggle their scantil y clad flesh
before you, above you and possibl y even beneath you for a
price. Catch a free limousine ride to the club from Old Town
to visit the Barbie of your dreams. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. Entrance 80Lt. PA
Old Town Strip Club C-4, Rdnink 14, tel. (+370) 5
212 13 49, www.oldtown.lt. Expect a thumping, throbbing,
erotically charged escapade. These ladies dont mess around
when its show time. Well actually they mess around with a lot
of toys. The hardcore Eros on display here is unparalleled in
this city, but the very best part might just be the deliciousl y
innocent waitresses who somehow manage to keep all their
clothes on. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Entrance
80Lt. PJA
Paradise A-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. (+370) 630 111 12,
www.paradiseclub.lt. This perfect combination of gen-
tlemens leisure and entertainment provides a range of
services and facili ties from saucy dancing to whirlpools.
What more could a man with a credit card need? They dont
call it Paradise for nothing. QOpen 20:00 - 07:00. Entrance
100Lt. PJAW
56
what to see what to see
If you havent got a lot of time in Vilnius, the Cathedral-
Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus (p.59),
Dawn Gate (p.61), Gediminas Castle & Museum (see
below), Genocide Victims Museum (see below), and
St. Annes Church (p.60) are generally considered to
be the major sights. This list is of course highly subjec-
tive, and in no way reflects the expectations of every
single visitor to the city. Vilnius In Your Pocket strives
to bring you the widest range of historical and cultural
sights and sensations, and is adding to the list all the
time. If you think theres something missing, write to us
and let us know.
Essential Vilnius Museums & Galleries
Applied Arts Museum (Taikomosios Dails Muz-
iejus) D-1, Arsenalo 3a, tel. (+370) 5 262 80 80, www.
ldm.lt. Housed inside what was the far northeast corner of
the citys original defensive walls, of which some including an
original gate can still be seen inside, this worthy inclusion into
the citys national treasures is stuffed full of good things to
see, among them little models of how the city once looked,
furniture, paintings and much more besides. Among the per-
manent exhibits find three unmissable collections of sacred
Lithuanian art including examples from both the Catholic and
Orthodox Churches dating back as far as the 15th century.
Temporary exhibitions also take place throughout the year.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 6/3Lt. J
Archaeology Museum (Archeologijos Muziejus)
C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 24 52. Rather awk-
ward to find hidden away inside a courtyard opposi te the
funicular station, this often overlooked collection of clothing,
documents and other articles tracing the history and cul ture
of Lithuania from the 13th century to the present is equall y
interesting for being housed inside a splendid historical build-
ing that once made up part of the citys defensive wall. Blind
you with its ingenuity it wont, but for a pleasant 30 minutes
that takes in one or two especiall y lovel y exhibits, locating
the hole in the wall to find the entrance is definitel y worth the
bother. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue (until April
30). Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon
(from May 1). Admission 5/2Lt. J
Church Heritage Museum (Banytinio Paveldo
Muziejus) D-3, v. Mykolo 9, tel. (+370) 5 269 78
03, www.bpmuziejus.lt. Founded in October 2005 by the
Archbishop of Vilnius, Audrys Juozas Bakis, and moved
to the splendour of the former 17th-century St. Michaels
Church in 2009, this recommended museum, which in reality
celebrates just the Lithuanian Catholic Church, features two
floors of paintings, liturgical articles, literature and some fine
wooden carvings from the collections of some of the finest
churches in the country. In English, and with an optional audio
guide, theres no thread to the things on display, al though
almost with exception each piece is fascinating in its own
way. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission
10/5Lt. J
Diamond Museum (Deimant Muziejus) B-4,
Vokiei 11, tel. (+370) 5 260 06 44, www.dsm.lt. A
mul timedia journey explaining the history and the processing
of diamonds with the help of a disembodied voice emanating
from a number of expensive televisions. Founded by Israeli
businessman Eli Katz, who also owns the aforementioned
voice, after taking the tour the final room sees a hologram
of Mr. Katz in a room full of treasures and a computer game
for children. An interesting museum indeed, but be warned,
you cant just walk around will y nill y, so be prepared to give
up at least 30 minutes of your time to visit the place. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00. Admission 15/10Lt. J
Gediminas Castle & Museum (Gedimino Pilis ir
Muziejus) C-1, Castle Hill, tel. (+370) 5 261 74 53.
Dating from the 13th century the castle was rebuil t in 1419
by Grand Duke Vytautas following the great fire of Vilnius. In
1610 it was used as a prison for the ruling classes, and during
the 1655-1661 Russian occupation the towers and defensive
walls were almost completel y destroyed, with serious albeit
onl y partial restoration work beginning (presumabl y by the
Poles) as late as 1930. Inside the tower itself find models of
the castle as it was in the 14th and 18th centuries plus other
miscellaneous bits and pieces concerned with the buildings
history and knights in dented armour. The view on a good day
is recommended. The walk to the top is a bit of a struggle for
many, although there are benches thoughtfully provided along
the way. Al ternati vel y, use the funicular-type train (tickets
3/2Lt) which runs up and down the hills northern slope. Find
it hidden in a courtyard immediatel y west of the Applied Art
Museum on Arsenalo. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00 (until April 30).
Open 10:00 - 19:00 (from May 1). Admission 5/2Lt. J
Genocide Victims Museum (Genocido Auk Muzie-
jus) G-4, Auk 2a, tel. (+370) 5 249 62 64, www.genocid.
lt/muziejus. The sign outside reads that between 1940 and
1991 this building housed the representative institutions of
the NKVD and KGB, and, accordingly, the exhibits inside relate
almost exclusively to the period of oppression and the so-called
genocide of the Lithuanian people by the Communist regime.
Understandably a must-see part of any trip to Vilnius for people
wishing to understand this often bleak and violent period in the
countrys history, what the sign fails to point out is that between
1941 and 1944 the building was controlled by the Gestapo,
whose role in the systematic murder of the vast majority of the
citys Jewish population with the willing participation of many
ethnic Lithuanians is, somewhat bizarrely, almost completely
overlooked, although the recent addition of a room dedicated
to just this issue is a welcome addition. Controversy aside, as
a testament to the suffering endured by the ethnic Lithuanians,
especially under the lunacy of Stalin, the place is a must-see for
any visitor to Vilnius. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/3Lt. Genocide Victims Museum
what to see
57
what to see
Lithuanian Energy and Technology Museum (Lietu-
vos Energetikos ir Technikos Muziejus) I-3, Rinktins
2, tel. (+370) 5 278 20 85, www.emuziejus.lt. Housed
inside Vilnius first power station, built in 1903, this tremendous
museum is packed full of displays including a room full of old
cars and motorbikes, a fascinating collection of machines and
photographs dedicated to the post-war Soviet industrialisation
of the country and the history of Lithuanian manufacturing in
general plus, on the top floor, two rooms for children complete with
touch-screen displays and interactive games aimed at explaining
the basics of science, which is in English as well as Lithuanian.
Everything has been built around the old power plant turbines
and steam boilers, giving the place a really special atmosphere.
Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/5Lt.
Lithuanian Radio & Television Museum (Lietuvos
Radijo ir Televizijos Muziejus) F-4, Konarskio 49 (inside
the LRT building), tel. (+370) 5 236 32 14, www.lrtc.lt. A
little gem of a corridor lined with several large, glass-fronted dis-
plays showcasing the history of radio and television in Lithuania
from its inception through to the modern day. Among the old radio
sets, costumes and photographs of stars you wont recognise
is a fabulous selection of things dedicated to the tragic events
of January 13, 1991, including the telephone used by Lithuanian
television bosses to communicate with the KGB and a video
camera complete with a smashed lens, courtesy of an unknown
Russian soldier who shot it with his rifle. Q Open by appointment
only. Admission free.
Lithuanian Theatre, Music & Cinema Museum (Li-
etuvos Teatro, Muzikos ir Kino Muziejus) B-3, Vilniaus
41, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 06, www.ltmkm.lt. Originating in
1926 as a theatre museum and slowly collecting departments
and exhibits over the decades until it became what it is today,
this mildly interesting cultural diversion inside a glorious 18th-
century former palace and theatre charts the Lithuanian history
of the three arts. Among several badly ventilated rooms full of
harmoniums, 19th-century theatre posters and recordings of
famous Lithuanian opera singers are one or two gems including
several displays given over to the life of the actress Un Babickait
(aka. Une Baye or Bye, 1897-1961), who received a modicum
of cinematic success in the United States in the 1920s. The
museum also features several temporary exhibitions of painting
and photography. If you can prevent the old ladies who guard
the place from pestering you every couple of minutes you might
just find you enjoy this place. Entrance is around the back of the
building. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,
Sun.Admission 5/3Lt. J
Money Museum (Pinig Muziejus) B-2, Totori 2/8,
tel. (+370) 5 268 03 34/(+370) 5 268 00 77. Featuring five
small rooms on two floors celebrating the history of world and
Lithuanian money, despite the inclusion of lots of fancy interactive
bits and bobs and plenty of information in English, this relatively
new museums best attribute is the fact that its free to enter. If
moneys your hobby then theres no doubt its worth a visit. If it
isnt, then it probably isnt. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. J
National Art Gallery (Nacionalin Dails Galerija)
G-3, Konstitucijos 22, tel. (+370) 5 219 59 60, www.ndg.
lt. Found inside a renovated and enlarged building that once
housed the Museum of the Revolution of the Lithuanian Soviet
Socialist Republic, this bold endeavour showcases the work
of a multitude of artists of Lithuanian origin from the 20th and
21st century. Among the commendable cast of contributors,
examples on permanent display include work from a diverse
range of artists including the Jewish sculptor Jacques Lipchitz
(1891-1973) and the countrys most outstanding documentary
photographer Antanas Sutkus (b. 1939). The museum is organ-
ised to highlight particular styles, eras and political attitudes to
art in Lithuania under the numerous regimes of the past century
and also stages temporary exhibitions that are well worth visiting.
QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt.
National Museum (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Muziejus)
C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 26, www.lnm.lt.
Lithuanias oldest museum, parts of the collection inside this
intriguing history lesson date back to the 13th century. On per-
manent display are religious and secular items highlighting the
cultural and ethnographic life of the nation, including recreations
of traditional homesteads, clothing, paintings and much more.
Also to be found are some of the things unearthed in the mass
grave of Napoleonic soldiers nearby in 2001. The museum also
puts on temporary shows, of which some are truly outstanding.
A vital key for unlocking the secrets of the Lithuanian people.
Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue (until April 30). Open
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon (from May 1).
Admission 5/2Lt. J
Tuskulnai Peace Park Memorial Complex
(Tuskuln Rimties Parko Memorialinis Komple-
ksas) irmn 1f, tel. (+370) 5 275 07 04. Between
1944 and 1947 over 700 Lithuanians, Poles and Jews were
executed on this site by the forerunner to the KGB and buried
in what was at the time State-owned property in the grounds
of the 19th-century Tuskuln Dvaras manor house. In 1994
the remains of the bodies were discovered and the area has
since been turned into a memorial park. The park complex
comprises the manor house, the former stable building next
door that now houses an art gallery and the Secrets of
Tuskulnai Manor exhibition, dedicated to both the history
of the estate and the crimes that took place there during
the Soviet occupation. The jewel in the crown however is the
columbarium (kolumbariumas), an extraordinary underground
burial chamber thats more of a mass a mausoleum and where
the remains of the deceased are now kept. Tours in English
are available, and calling in advance to make sure everythings
open is recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 -
15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Exposition open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Also by appointment.
Weve been de-
l ayi ng wr i t i ng
about the Vi l -
ni us Ci ty Card
for a long time
now, based on
the simple fact
that i t never re-
all y offered val -
ue for money,
a truth thats no longer the case. Available from any
Tourist Information Centre in the ci ty (see p.7) and
online via www.vilnius-tourism.l t, there are two di ffer-
ent types of card valid for either 24 hours (58Lt) or 72
hours (86Lt), both of which come with public transport,
with a further 24-hour version without public transport
for just 45Lt. The Vilnius Ci ty Card enti tles holders
to al l sorts of deal s i ncl udi ng free museum entry
and guided tours as well as discounts on a range of
things including concerts, meals in restaurants and
hotel bookings. Check the aforementioned websi te
for more detailed information.
Vilnius City Card
58
what to see
Vilnius Picture Gallery (Vilniaus Paveiksl Galerija)
C-3, Didioji 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 58, www.ldm.lt.
Housed inside the charming 17th-century Chodkeviiai (Chod-
kiewicz) family palace, this splendid little museum is of the type
in which a menagerie of middle-aged ladies shuttle you around
from room to room like a pinball. Ignore them if you can, and
enjoy a great collection of local painting, drawing and sculpture
plus a couple of rooms stuffed full of exemplary furniture, all of
it representing the last several hundred years of achievement.
They also put on temporary exhibitions here, of which some
are well worth checking out. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J
Churches
Bernardine Church & Monastery (Bernardin
Banyia ir Vienuolynas) D-3, Maironio 10, tel. (+370)
5 260 92 92. Once forming part of the citys original defensive
walls and constructed on the site of an earlier wooden church
dating from the middle of the 15th century at the behest of
an order of Bernadine monks, the current vast Gothic church
with Baroque and Renaissance additions dates from the early
part of the 16th century onwards. As the old photographs on
display show, the church interior was truly breathtaking before
the Soviet authorities took control of the building, handing it
over to the Vilnius Art Institute who among other things alleg-
edly incorporated parts of the interior into the works of art the
academy was producing. Returned to the monks soon after
independence, a mammoth restoration project continues to
this day. Current highlights include 14 magnificent rococo
altars and the oldest known crucifix in the country, dating
from the 15th century. The neighbouring monastery is the
oldest part of the ensemble. Once famed for its extensive
library and independent-minded monks, the monastery was
closed soon after the failed Uprising of 1863 and turned into
a barracks for tsarist troops before falling into the hands of the
citys Art Academy at the end of WWI. The building now houses
the Vilnius Art Academy. Q Mass Mon, Tue, Thu 07:30, Wed
07:30, 18:00, Fri 07:30, 18:00, Sat 09:00, 18:00, Sun 09:00
(English), 10:30, 13:00, 17:00. J
Church of Sts. Michael & Constantine (v. Kon-
stantino ir Michailo Cerkv) H-4, J. Basanaviiaus
27, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 90. Built in 1913 at the very end
of tsarist rule within the city as part of the 300th anniversary
celebrations of the Romanov Dynasty, this rather absurd-
looking Russian Orthodox church is famed hereabouts for its
garish green domes. On closer inspection, the church, which
supposedly incorporates elements of both the Rostov and
Suzdal styles, is a beautiful design, as early postcards showing
the original dome designs attest. The interior is relatively plain,
and only really recommended for serious enthusiasts.
Church of the Apparition of the Holy Mother of
God (Znamenskaya) G-3, Vytauto 21/1, tel. (+370) 5
275 13 75. Built in 1903 and topped with several beautiful
Neo-Byzantine cupolas, this is one of the best loved Russian
Orthodox churches in Vilnius. Among the numerous icons
hanging inside are potted plants that make the place feel
really alive. Next to the icons are special prayers for each
saint, but as everything in the church is written in Old Church
Slavonic youll need a translator to help work them out. The
church was fully restored inside and out in 2009 Q Service
Sat 16:00, Sun 09:00.
Church of the Holy Cross (v. Kryiaus Banyia)
B-2, S. Daukanto 1, tel. (+370) 5 260 93 47. On the other
side of the Presidential Palace from the University, this charm-
ing little churchs history dates back to 1543 and the building
of a chapel on the site to commemorate the martyrdom of a
group of 14th-century Franciscan friars. Slowly added to over
the centuries, including the attached Bonifratri Monastery, the
church is now more or less late Baroque in appearance with a
few rococo flourishes, and is notable as being the only church
in Vilnius converted from an ordinary house rather than being
purpose-built. The small interior is well worth having a peep at
if the main doors arent bolted as they usually are, the most
outstanding feature being the painting, Holy Virgin Mother
of Snow on the high altar, a copy of which can be found on
the fresco over the main entrance. The small square in which
the church is located also features a stylised, Soviet-era bust
of Laurynas Stuoka-Guceviius (1753-1798), Lithuanias first
serious architect who was responsible for the contemporary
look of the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus
among other buildings in the city. Q Mass 17:15, Sun 09:30,
12:00.
Church of the Holy Mother of God (Skaisiausios
Dievo Motinos Cerkv) D-3, Maironio 14, tel. (+370)
5 215 37 47. Originally dating back to the middle of the 14th
century, this slightly unusual-looking church which also functions
as the citys Russian Orthodox Cathedral and that as such is
often referred to as the Cathedral of the Theotokos in Vilnius
owes much of its partial Neo-Byzantine design to reconstruc-
tion work completed in 1522. In 1808, soon after the start of
tsarist rule in Vilnius, the building fell into the hands of Vilnius
University who divided it into two floors, constructing a library,
classrooms and dissection rooms for anatomy classes inside.
In 1842 soldiers moved in as the church acted as a barracks
before it took on several other uses before General Muravyov
and his brother had it restored to its current Georgian appear-
ance and used as a house of worship towards the end of the
1860s. Q Service Sat 09:00, 17:00, Sun 09:00. J
59
what to see
Cathedral-Basilica of
St. Stanislaus & St.
Ladislaus (Vilniaus
v. Stanislovo ir v.
Vladislovo Arkikat-
edra Bazilika) C- 2,
Katedros 1, tel. (+370)
5 261 11 27. The most
important Catholic building
in Lithuania, Vilnius Cathedral as its more usually known
was first built in 1251 by a newly converted Grand Duke
Mindaugas on the site of a supposed pagan temple.
Returned to pagan use after Mindaugas death in 1263,
the church was given back to the Catholic Church on the
countrys official conversion to Christianity in 1387, al-
though the building that now stands in its place has little to
do with the original structure. The current building dates to
around 1419, with countless modifications and additions
made after that. Its present Neo-Classical form is largely
down to the work of the Lithuanias first true architect,
Laurynas Stuoka Guceviius (Pol. Wawrzyniec Gucewicz,
1753-1798), who was also responsible for a number of
other notable buildings in the city including the Town Hall.
The rather plain nave betrays eleven chapels, among them
the must-see High Baroque Chapel of St. Casimir (1458-
1484), Lithuanias patron saint. Built in 1636 to house
his remains, the chapel is one of the countrys national
treasures. The three statues of Sts. Stanislaus, Helena
and Casimir on the roof, supposedly representing Poland,
Russia and Lithuania, are 1997 copies of the 18th-century
originals which were taken down and lost by the Soviets
in 1950, the year the building was confiscated from the
Catholics. Spending several years as an art gallery and
even mooted as a car repair workshop at one time, the
Cathedral was returned to the Catholic Church on October
22, 1988 during the eventful Sjdis Congress and was
re-consecrated on February 5, 1989. The 57-metre free-
standing bell tower, a popular contemporary meeting
place, was originally part of one of the gates in the citys
defensive wall and has been added to several times over
the centuries which gives it its peculiar shape. It received
six new bells in 2002, baptised by Cardinal Audrys Bakis,
the current Archbishop of Vilnius, in a special ceremony.
Q Mass 08:00, 17:30, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:00,
11:15, 12:30, 17:30, 18:30 (Latin). J
Cathedral
Church of the Holy Spirit (ventosios Dvasios
Banyia) B-3, Dominikon 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 95
95. Like many of the citys churches, the Dominican Church
of the Hol y Spirit was buil t on the site of a former wooden
house of worship that met a fiery fate. The current buildings
appearance started taking shape towards the end of the
14th century. In 1501 it was given to an order of Dominican
monks who buil t a monastery nearby. Its present Baroque
appearance dates to the mid-18th century when the church
was rebuil t after serious fire damage. Inside is a weal th of
Baroque and rococo splendour, well worth further investiga-
tion. Interestingl y, the building, which functions as Vilnius
Polish Catholic communitys main church, remained opened
throughout the entire Soviet occupation. Gaining rare access
to the churchs crypts promises a ghoulish adventure amidst
some 2,000 corpses in varying states of repair. Dating from
the 17th and 18th centuries, the bodies are supposedl y
victims of the plague. Q Mass onl y in Polish 15:00, 18:00,
Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J
Evangelical Lutheran Church (Evangelik
Liuteron Banyia) B-4, Vokiei 20, tel. (+370)
5 212 21 25. Buil t in 1555, two years after the first
German-speaking Lutheran communi ty is said to have
arri ved in Vilnius, the crowning glory of this small Gothi c
and Baroque church on the street named after the ci tys
German communi ty is the gorgeous rococo al tar, dating
from 1741 and the work of Johann Christoph Glaubi tz
(Jonas Kristupas Glaubi cas, ca. 1700-1767), a Li thuanian
of German extraction and the ci tys foremost archi tect
at the time. Serving as a workshop and basketball court
under the Communists, the building was returned to i ts
congregation in 1991 and has since become the predomi-
nant house of worship for the capi tals mul ti-denomination,
English-speaking Christians. Q Servi ce Tue, Thu 08:00,
Wed 18:00, Fri, 17:00, Sun 09:30 (English, Ecumeni cal
Protestant), 11:00 (Li thuanian). J
Franciscan Church (Prancikon Banyia) B-4,
Trak 9-1, tel. (+370) 5 261 42 42. The Franciscan
Church, or the Church of the Assumption of the Bl essed
Virgin Mar y and Franciscan Abbey in Vilnius to gi ve i t
i ts full ti tl e, dates from the middl e of the 14th century.
Currentl y a beguiling building si te of crumbling Gothi c
and Baroque magni fi cence, work continues both inside
and out to restore i t to i ts ori ginal beauty. Amidst the
hastil y assembl ed wooden seating, pil e of bri cks on the
sanctuary and scaffolding towers, work is slowl y moving
forwards. At the time of our last visi t, the Chapel of the
Virgin Mary, compl ete wi th a statue of the lady reputed
to have miracl e-working powers, was nearing compl etion,
gi ving some indi cation of how things will eventuall y look.
Q Mass 17:30 (Li thuanian), 19:00 (Polish), Sun 10:00
(Li thuanian), 11:30 (Polish), 13:00 (Polish). J
Holy Trinity Church & Basilian Gate (v. Trejybs
Cerkv ir Bazilijon Vartai) C-5, Auros Vart 7b, tel.
(+370) 5 212 25 78. Consisting of a church, monastery,
belfry and beautiful rococo gate, with the exception of the
latter much of it in a state of hideous disrepair, the Holy Trinity
Church originall y dates from 1514 and features elements of
Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Byzantine architecture. Buil t at the
behest of the Belarusian national hero Konstantin Ivanovich
Ostrozhsky (Konstantinas Ostrogikis, ca. 1460-1530), the
church, which was extensivel y al tered after a serious fire in
the middle of the 18th century, belongs to the Uniates or
Eastern Catholic Church, a peculiar faith which fuses together
many Orthodox beliefs whilst recognising the Pope as Gods
representati ve on Earth. The church is a complete mess
inside, almost completel y empty with the exception of some
wonderful, barel y visible frescos both inside and out. Theres
also a small chapel on the right as you enter. Renovation
work is slow. The elaborate, 17.9m gate was buil t in 1761
to a design by Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas
Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767). Q Service onl y in Ukrainian Mon
- Wed 06:30, Sat 09:00, Sun 10:00. J
Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva (Pyatnickaya)
C-3, Didioji 2. Dating back to the middle of the 14th century
and itself built on the site of what many believe to be a former
pagan place of worship, the charming albeit somewhat diminu-
tive Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva can not only claim to have
been the first church in Vilnius to be made of stone but is also
the alleged location of the baptism in 1705 of none other than
Hannibal, the African prince and great grandfather of Alexander
Pushkin who was brought to Russia by Peter the Great from the
part of Africa thats now Eritrea. Originally in the hands of the
Uniate Church, the building, which had been rebuilt on several oc-
casions due to fire, fell into disrepair around the time of the Third
Partition of 1795, laying abandoned for seven decades before
60
what to see
being almost completely rebuilt in 1864 only to suffer major
fire damage during WWII. Reconstructed in 1949, the building
closed in 1961, opening a year later as a museum of painting
before being returned to the Orthodox Church on May 31, 1991.
Unusually for a Russian Orthodox Church in Lithuania, services
are conducted in Lithuanian once a week on a Sunday. J
Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit (Staiatiki v.
Dvasios Cerkv) C-5, Auros Vart 10, tel. (+370) 5 212
77 65. Dating originally from the mid-16th century but predomi-
nantly now the combined work of the citys most renowned and
prolific religious architect Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kris-
tupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767) who spent four years on the
rococo design between 1749 and 1753 and later 19th-century
Neo-Byzantine modifications, the entire ensemble is comprised
of the church, a free-standing bell tower, monastery and convent
although its the church interior thats of most interest, being
positively bursting with frescos, icons, a magnificent cupola and
rich blue and green colours. A particular quirk of the churchs
crypt saw it being chosen in the middle of the 19th century as
the final resting place of the supposedly incorruptible Saints
Jonas, Eustachius, and Antanas, couriers of Algirdas whose
remains are displayed dressed in white at Christmas, in black
during Lent, in red on all other occasions with the exception of
June 26 when theyre put on display entirely naked. Q Service
08:00, 17:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. J
Ref ormed Evangelical Church (Evangelik
Reformat Banyia) A-3, Pylimo 20, tel. (+370) 5 279
10 52. The origin of the Protestant Church in Lithuania, whose
three traditional strongholds still exist in Birai, Kdainiai and
Vilnius, dates back to John Calvins lifetime in 1557, although
this particular church, considered one of the finest examples of
Neo-Classical architecture in the country, was built considera-
bly later between 1830 and 1835. The work of one of the best
local Neo-Classical architects of his day Karolis Podainskis
(Pol. Karol Podczaszyski, 1790-1860), the church was closed
by the Soviets in 1953, eventually becoming a cinema, a fact
the church now betrays courtesy of the cinema seats still in
use. Q Service in Lithuanian Sun 11:00. J
St. Annes Church (v. Onos Banyia) D-3,
Maironio 8. Unquestionabl y one of the citys most famous
landmarks and quite rightly so, the history of St. Annes starts
with the alleged construction in the 14th century of a wooden
house of worship on this spot in honour of Ona, the wife of Vy-
tautas the Great. The first historical records of a church here
date from 1394, al though the current Gothic masterpiece is
believed to have been buil t between 1495 and 1500 to a
design by the Bohemian architect Benedikt Rejt (1453-1534),
most famous for designing parts of Prague Castle. Unlike
other historical churches in Vilnius, St. Annes has managed
to escape the ravages of time almost unscathed and is argu-
abl y the least changed of them all. Composed of 33 different
styles of brick assembled into a delicate and intricate whole,
the effect is simpl y quite stunning. Its been said the faade
incorporates the Pillars of Gediminas, one of the countrys
earliest symbols, al though this is hardl y clear from looking
at it. The interior is surprisingl y free of ostentation, al though
this is hardl y needed due to the spectacular design of the
structure. The free-standing bell tower has nothing to do with
the original design, being built only in 1873. A visiting Emperor
Napoleon in 1812 famousl y if somewhat apocryphall y noted
hed like to take the building back to Paris in the palm of his
hand. Q Mass 18:00, Sun 09:00, 11:00. J
St. Casimirs Church (v. Kazimiero Banyia)
C-4, Didioji 34, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 15. St. Casimirs
in many ways represents a microcosm of Li thuania i tself.
Founded by the Jesuits and dedicated to Lithuanias patron
saint Prince Casimir Jagiellon (1458-1484), construction
on the mighty building began in 1604 and was completed
in 1635. Burnt to the ground just 20 years later when the
Russians invaded in 1655, conflagration visited twice again
within the next century in 1709 and 1749 before the architect,
mathematician and astronomer Tomas ebrauskas (Pol.
Thomas Zubrwka, 1714-1758) restored it to more or less
the form its seen in today. Over the centuries the church
fell into the hands of the Augustinians, Napoleons Grande
Arme, the Russian Orthodox Church (who signi ficantl y
al tered its appearance), the Lutherans (who used it as the
garrison church for the occupying German Army during WWI)
and others, including the Soviets who turned the whole place
into a museum of atheism no less. Returned to the Catholic
Church in 1988, the building was consecrated in 1991 and
has since undergone a massive renovation project, restoring
its predominantly Baroque style with Gothic and Renaissance
touches. Of particular interest inside are three late Baroque
al tars and a recentl y discovered 17th-century crypt contain-
ing dark bas-reliefs featuring miscellaneous religious motifs.
Q Mass 17:30, Sun 09:00 (Russian), 10:30, 12:00. J
St. Nicholas Church (v. Mikalojaus Banyia)
B-4, v. Mikalojaus 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 69. Pre-
dating the countrys conversion to Christianity by some seven
decades, Vilnius oldest surviving church was buil t in 1320 by
German merchant immigrants. Mentioned for the first time
in 1387, the impressi ve, classic red brick Gothic exterior
remains pretty much as it looked the day it was finished with
the interior having received numerous changes and additions
over the centuries. During the disputed annexation of the
Vilnius region during the two World Wars, this was the onl y
church in the city open to the citys small Lithuanian-speaking
Catholic community. Q Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sat 09:00, Sun
08:00, 10:00, 14:00. J
St. Nicolas Church (v. Nikolajaus Cerkv) C-4,
Didioji 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 85 59. The forerunner to
this church supposedl y dates back to the second decade
of the 16th century, belonging from 1609 until 1827 to the
Uniate Church. At some time during the 18th century the
original church burnt down and was replaced soon after in the
Late Baroque style. At the height of the tensions between
the Russians and several other ethnic communities in the
city, the church was confiscated on the orders of General
Muravyov and converted into a Russian Orthodox church
with several Neo-Byzantine additions made in 1865. With
i ts predominantl y Catholic tower and typicall y Orthodox
dome the church is one of the most peculiar looking houses
of worship in the capi tal. Q Services Sat 09:00, 17:00,
Sun 09:00. J
Sts. Johns Church (v. Jon Banyia) C-3, v.
Jono 12, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 55. Buil t at the same time
as Lithuanias conversion to Christianity in 1387, albeit with
numerous radical al terations through the centuries, the
vast and imposing Sts. Johns Church was gi ven to the
Jesui t Church in 1571 by Zygmunt II August (ygimantas
Augustas, 1520-1572). On the dissolution of the Jesui t
Order in 1773, the church was handed over to the adjoining
Uni versi ty. The present building, which contains elements
of all of the major architectural styles associated with Old
Town boasts an extraordinary and predominantl y Gothic
interior whose crowning glory is i ts organ of which parts
date back to an organ that came from the Belarusian city of
Polotsk in 1831. The organ, the largest in country and that
received a complete overhaul in stages between 1974 and
2000, is used extensivel y in classical concerts the church
is now famous for. Q Mass Tue - Thu 18:00, Sun 11:00,
13:00. J
61
what to see
Sts. Peter & Pauls Church (v. Apatal Petro ir
Povilo Banyia) J-3, Antakalnio 1, tel. (+370) 5 234
02 29. Believed to have been buil t on the site of a site of
worship to Milda, the pagan goddess of love, this breathtaking
Late Baroque masterpiece was commissioned to celebrate
victory over the Russians in 1668 by Michael Casimir Pac,
the Grand Hetman of the Lithuanian armies, who never lived
to see its completion. Financed by two of Pacs cousins and
completed under several master craftsmen including the
Polish Jan Zaor and Italian Gianbattista Frediani, the rather
plain faade betrays an interior by Giovanni Pietro Perti and
Giovanni Maria Galli thats quite simpl y out of this world. Con-
taining over 2,000 astonishing stucco mouldings representing
miscellaneous religious and mythological scenes, of equal
magnificence are the 20th-century altar containing a wooden
figure of Christ, Antakalnio Jzus (Jesus of Antakalnis) which
features real human hair brought from Rome in 1700 and the
Latvian chandelier made of brass and glass beads and dating
from 1905. Q Mass 07:00, 07:30, 17:00 (Polish), 18:00, Sun
07:30, 08:30 (Polish), 10:00, 11:30, 13:00 (Polish), 18:00.
St. Theresas Church (v. Teress Banyia) C-5,
Auros Vart 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 35 13. Probably Vilnius
best surviving example of Early Baroque religious architecture,
work on the first incarnation of St. Theresas was completed
in around 1650. Buil t at the behest and expense of the then
Deputy Chancellor Steponas Pacas (Pol. Stefan Pac), the
straightforward idea behind its construction was to create
the most beautiful church in the city, a fact that can clearl y
be seen by its elaborate faade, predominantl y the work of
the Swiss-born Constantino Tencalla (1610-1647) who also
worked on St. Georges Chapel inside the citys Cathedral.
The spectacular and predominantl y rococo interior, much of
it added in the middle of the 18th century, is a riot of golds
and pinks. J
Places of interest
Centre of Europe (Europos Centras) Lithuania has
the proud and noble distinction along with at least six other
places of being smack in the middle of Europe. The Lithuanian
claim stems from a 1989 ruling by Jean-George Affholder of
Frances Institut Gographique National who announced that
the site lies at Bernotai, close to the village of Purnuks
some 26km north of Vilnius. The exact point, which can be
reached by driving out of the city on the A14 in the direction
of Moltai and looking for the signs, has been commemorated
with the construction of an expensive monument, a fact that
may go a long way to explaining why a recent recalculation
placing the centre of Europe six kilometres closer to Vilnius
is being more or less ignored by the cash-strapped nation.
Ul timatel y one should remember that Europe is a concept
and not actuall y a continent at all, making the whole affair
slightl y ridiculous in the first place.
Dawn Gate (Auros Vartai) C-5, Auros Vart 12, tel.
(+370) 5 212 35 13. Completed in 1522, the Dawn Gate (or
Sharp Gate (Ostra Brama) as its known to the Poles) is the
onl y remaining gate from the citys original defensive walls.
As was common at the time, an image of the Virgin Mary
was placed above all gates to protect the city, and the story
of the Dawn Gate starts from this simple historic fact. The
current image, known as The Blessed Virgin Mary Mother
of Mercy, was painted on eight pieces of oak in around 1630
by an unknown artist, was embellished with gold and sil ver
about 40 years after that, was housed inside a purpose-buil t
chapel above the gate in 1706 and is believed to have magic
healing powers. Interestingl y, the Dawn Gate is revered by
both the Catholic and Orthodox faiths and is such an impor-
tant part of the citys cul tural heritage that it remained open
In 1397, Vytau-
tas the Great,
known as Vitaut
() to the
Belarusians and
Wi t ol d t o t he
Poles, famously
settled a group
of former Tatar
pr i s on er s o f
war and t hei r
fami l i es i n the
Grand Duchy of
Lithuania in the
then cul tural l y
and ethni cal l y
complex region
around Vil nius,
or Vi l na as i t
was called at the
time. These Turkic newcomers, who became known as
the Lipka Tatars (Lipka probably from the Crimean Tatar
word for Lithuania), sprang up in several settlements in
the area including todays tiny village of Keturiasdeimt
Totori (Forty Tatars), one of the oldest Lipka Tatar
settlements in the former Grand Duchy of Lithuania and
just 20km south of Vilnius. The history and culture of the
Lipka Tatars is a beguiling mix of influences embodying
the religions of shamanism, Islam and Christianity and a
language that evolved into a form of spoken Belarusian
that was written in the Arabic script, a unique language
that lasted well into the 1930s. Predominantly Islamic,
the Lipka Tatars had an unusually liberal attitude towards
women, with co-education being the norm, although this
didnt stop polygamy, a practice that allegedly bought
about the name Keturiasdeimt Totori with the no doubt
apocryphal story of a local Lipka Tatar man who had four
wives that each bore him 10 sons. Keturiasdeimt Totori
is a typical local anomaly, being both infamous although
seldom visited, the latter perhaps for good reason as
theres little to see beyond the villages wooden mosque,
first mentioned in written sources in 1558 and rebuilt in
1815 after Napoleons Grande Arme raised it to the
ground during the ill-fated invasion of Russia two cen-
turies ago. Despite the lack of local attractions, a short
visit to Keturiasdeimt Totori is highly recommended,
not least for anyone with even a passing interest in the
strange and illustrious history of the region. Now looking
entirely out of place, the mosque is the Islamic version
of the local Catholic wooden village church, simple in
design and unfortunately seldom open to the public. The
main attraction however is the surrounding cemetery
complete with gravestones dating back hundreds of
years and many carved with a star and the Moon at the
top with Arabic inscriptions underneath. Getting to the
village can be a bit of an adventure for those without
access to a car or the strength to cycle there. The N42
bus service runs fairly regularly from the stop in the
northwestern corner of the large square outside the
train and bus stations, but only goes as far as the small
town of Pagiriai, two kilometres short of the required
destination. Alternatively, a local service runs from the
bus station all the way to Keturiasdeimt Totori several
times a day, continuing the journey to Skarbutenai before
turning round and coming back again. This gives visitors
about 45 minutes to see the mosque.
Keturiasdeimt Totori
Richard Schofield
62
what to see
Europos Parkas (Open Air Museum of the
Centre of Europe) Joneikiks, 10km north
of Vilnius, tel. (+370) 5 237 70 77, www.euro-
posparkas.lt. Founded in 1991 by the Li thuanian
sculptor Gintaras Karosas, this wildly di fferent and
recommended countryside excursion brings together
a number of names in local and international sculpture
including Karosas himsel f, the Polish artist Magdalena
Abakanowicz as well as Dennis Oppenheim and the late
Sol Le-Witt from the United States to create a vision
that in the words of the parks founder give[s] an
artistic signi ficance to the geographic centre of the
European continent. Featuring close on 100 works
by artists from countries as diverse as Armenia, Japan
and Venezuela, the park is spread out over 55 hectares
of rolling hills and woodland and includes static and
interactive art as well as the now infamous Info Tree,
Karosas crumbling shrine to propaganda made up
of some 3,000 televisions with a prostrate Lenin at
its centre. With the addition of a restaurant and gi ft
shop, the park offers a splendid few hours away from
the city for people of all ages. To get there by car,
take Kalvarij north to the Santariks roundabout,
turn right towards the Green Lakes (alieji Eerai) and
follow the signs. Buses leave from the algirio stop on
Kalvarij, including a minibus to Skirgiks which goes
all the way to the park itsel f. Alternatively, bus N36
goes part of the way there but requires the last couple
of kilometres to be made on foot. Q Open 10:00 - two
hours before sunset. Admission 25/11Lt.
Europos Parkas
Dennis Oppenheim. Drinking Structure with exposed
Kidney Pool
throughout the Soviet occupation. Watch closel y as people
walking underneath say a silent prayer. The chapel is open
to the public and is accessed via a small door on the left as
youre walking up the hill. Q Mass 07:30 (Latin), 09:00, 10:00
(Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30, Sun 09:00 (Polish), 09:30,
11:00, 13:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30. J
Green Bridge (aliasis Tiltas) H-3. A bridge of one
description or another has stood on the spot of the Green
Bridge since 1536. The current 103-metre metal construction
dates from 1952 and was originally named after a Red Army
general. The four groups of extraordinary sculptures at each
corner represent agriculture (3.2m, sculptors B. Buas and P.
Vaivada), industry and construction (3.2m, sculptors N. Petrulis
and B. Vyniauskas), peace (4m, sculptor B. Pundzius) and that
old Soviet chestnut, youth (3.2m, sculptors J. Miknas and J.
Kdainis). One of a few examples of blatantly Soviet art still in
a public place, the Socialist Realist masterpieces have evaded
removal on the grounds that they represent no real people living
or dead. Criminally rusting and falling apart, something needs
to be done to ensure that they stay around for many years to
come. Meanwhile, underneath the bridge can be found Kunotas
Vildinas contemporary work Grandin (Chain). Yawn.
Hill of Three Crosses (Trij Kryi Kalnas) I-3.
Legend has it that long ago seven Franciscan monks were
crucified here. Originally erected in the 17th century, Stalin had
the crosses removed and buried, and onl y in 1989 were they
rebuilt according to the original plans. The crosses are a great
symbol of both Lithuanian mourning and hope. An excellent
view of Old Town is also to be found at this spot.
Kenesa F-3, Liubarto 6. The Lithuanian Karaite or Karaim are
the smallest ethnic historical community in Vilnius, with just 150
or so remaining members of a people who settled in the region in
the 14th century. The Karaite, from whom they get their name, are
a Jewish sect who can be traced back to Mesopotamia (modern
day Iraq) who adhere to the Old Testament and the Decalogue,
but dont accept the Talmud. The Lithuanian Karaite were
originally Tatars living on the Black Sea, almost certainly Muslim
and who were converted to the Karaite faith in the 13th century.
Enigmatic and as yet not properly understood, the Lithuanian
Karaite, who number less than 500 nationwide, are on the edge
of extinction. During the Soviet occupation, their Moorish-looking
kenesa, built in 1922, was closed and made into a warehouse.
Like the countrys other remaining kenesa in Trakai, the building
is almost always locked.
Literat Gatv C-2/3, Literat. Inspired by Aidas
Marnass poem Literat Gatv about a wistful young man
drinking and smoking with his friends on the street of the same
name, the highly recommended permanent outdoor gallery on
Literat is dedicated to writers past and present whove all
left their mark on the city. Comprised of small, mixed-media
prints, drawings and paintings celebrating everyone from
Jonas Mekas to Czesaw Miosz to Romain Gary, the gallery,
all the work of local artists, grew from humble beginnings in
2008 and now features over 100 superb pieces.
M. K. iurlionis House (M. K. iurlionio Namai)
C-4, Saviiaus 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 51. Although more
famous for his painting, Mikalojus Konstantinas iurlionis
(1875-1911) has quite a reputation as a composer. This is
the house in which the great man lived for a short time in
a small room that can be visited. The rest of the building,
which during iurlionis time was both a famil y house and
a shop, features reproductions of his paintings and a small
concert space which stages musical productions almost
every Wednesday evening. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission free. J
63
what to see
Presidential Palace (Prezidentra) C-2, S. Daukan-
to Aikt 3/8, www.president.lt. The official residence
of the President of Li thuania, the Presidential Palace started
li fe in the 14th century as a much smaller structure buil t
at the behest of the ci tys first Bishop, Andrzej Jastrzbiec
(?-1398). Gaining i ts late Classical appearance much later,
the building remained the home of the cream of the ci tys
Catholic clergy until the 1795 Parti tion when i t became
the residential address of Vilnius tsarist governors. Many
illustrious figures have spent a night in the building over the
centuries, among them Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon Bona-
parte and local boy, some-time dictator, mili tary giant and
Polish national hero Jzef Pisudski (1867-1935) to name
but a few. After independence in 1990 the building served
several purposes until assuming i ts current role in 1997.
The presidential flag can be seen fl ying over the building
when the President is in residence or in the ci ty. Changing
of the Guard takes place on Sundays at 12:00. Q Free
tours of the Presidential Palace take place on Fridays and
Saturdays. Tours are limi ted to 25 people and are currentl y
in Li thuanian onl y. For more information, see www.president.
l t or call tel. (+370) 5 266 40 73. J
Stebuklas C-2, Arkikatedros Square. About hal fway
between the Cathedral and the bell tower is the stebuklas,
or miracle. Essentiall y a piece of stone believed to perform
wonders and with the word stebuklas written on it, the site
marks the spot where one end of the human chain of some
two million protesting Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians
stretching the 650km or so to Tallinn was formed on August
23, 1989. A symbol of freedom and hope, stand on the mira-
cle, turn a complete clockwise circle and make a wish. J
Television Tower (Televizijos Boktas) Sausio 13-
osios 10, tel. (+370) 5 252 53 33, www.lrtc.net. The
tallest building in Lithuania, the 326m Television Tower was
buil t from reinforced concrete and steel between 1974 and
1980 to a design by V. Obydovas and K. Balnas. On January
13, 1991 as the disintegration of the USSR reached a frenzied
pace and Moscow attempted to retake control of the Lithua-
nian media, Soviet tanks surrounded it in an assaul t that
killed 13 unarmed civilians. The tower has since become a
potent Lithuanian symbol. Around it are a few monuments and
photographs of those who lost their lives and whose names
the nearby streets are now called in honour of. Inside at
ground level is the small Sausio 13-osios Ekspozicija (January
13th Exhibition) commemorating the brutal events including
a copy of the original Soviet military attack plan, weapons
used to beat protesters and some disturbing photographs.
The exhibition is free, al though the 40-second ride in the lift
to visit the combined 270m restaurant and viewing station
isnt. The ticket office also sells several Television Tower
souvenirs. A taxi from Old Town costs somewhere in the
region of 20Lt. Al ternativel y, take trolleybus N1, 3, 7 or 16
to the Televizijos Boktas stop. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. Last
entrance 21:00. Admission 21Lt.
Town Hall (Rotu) C-4, Didioji 31, tel. (+370) 5 261
80 07, www.vilniausrotuse.lt. First mentioned in 1503,
the Town Hall most likel y dates from the 15th century, while
the present Classical structure was buil t at the end of the
18th century. In 1810 the governor general ordered that the
Town Hall housed a theatre, which gave performances on and
off until 1924. Since then its interior has been a museum.
Until the reestablishment of independence it served as the
Lithuanian Art Museum. Today its the Artists Palace where
you can see gallery art. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. J
64
what to see
First mentioned in 1337 by the Teutonic Knights, and one
of Lithuanias former medieval capitals, despite being
home to just 5,400 souls modern-day Trakai provides
boundless cultural and pastoral experiences for scores
of urbanites of both local and foreign persuasion, year
round. Crowned by a magni ficent Gothic castle (see
below), Trakai is equally well known for its many inhabit-
ants both past and present, among them Lithuanians,
Jews, Poles (who still make up a small percentage of the
population and who know the town as Troki), Russians,
Tatars and the Lithuanian Karaite, an intriguing, Turkic-
speaking offshoot of the larger Judaic Karaite movement
who arrived in the town from the Crimea at the end of
the 14th century and who are currently teetering on the
border of extinction. Just 28km west of Vilnius, Trakai is
both a tempting daytrip as well as a destination worthy
of further attention thanks to it being located inside the
countrys smallest national park. More like playing a gi-
ant game of snakes and ladders designed by MC Escher
than an enriching cultural experience, the Trakai History
Museum is spread around the Castle and linked via a baf-
fling array of higgledy-piggledy wooden steps and dark,
plunging spiral staircases. The two main collections are
to be found inside the western casemates (casements)
and the Ducal Palace, the former and least interesting
made up of 19th-century European glassware, ivory
walking stick handles and the like and the latter a collec-
tion of items dug up in the vicinity of the Castle, a huge
collection of coins, a small exhibition dedicated to the
Lithuanian Karaite and a few life-size models of medieval
gentlemen with enormous handlebar moustaches. Some
explanations are in English, but much remains in Lithu-
anian, Russian and German only. More than worth it for
a look around the Castle if nothing else.
Castle & Trakai History Museum (Trak Pilis
ir Trak Istorijos Muziejus) Tel. (+370) 5 285
39 46, www.trakaimuziejus.lt. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00
(until April 30). Closed Mon. Open 10:00 - 19:00 (from
May 1). Admission 14/8/6Lt.
Trakai
Vilnius University (Vilniaus Universitetas)
C-2/3, Universiteto 3, tel. (+370) 5 268 72 98, www.
vu.lt. Established in 1579 and one of the oldest uni versi-
ties in Eastern Europe, the splendid ensemble that makes
up Vilnius Uni versi tys main campus buildings embraces
just about every maj or archi tectural styl e of the last 400
years. Ori ginall y bel onging to the Catholi c Church, the
Uni versi ty became a secular seat of l earning in 1773 and
has remained so ever since. Closed for much of the 19th
and the first 18 years of the 20th century, famous past
students whove studied here include the Polish Romantic
poets Adam Mi ckiewi cz and Juliusz Sowacki, the Li thua-
nian author and historian Simonas Daukantas (see him
on any 100Lt note) and the Li thuania-born Polish Nobel
Prize-winning author Czesaw Miosz. As well as housing
the oldest library in the country, Vilnius Uni versi ty is also
famed for i ts l ovel y courtyards, of whi ch depending on
your defini tion of what a courtyard is, there are ei ther 12
or 13. The Uni versi ty i tsel f claims 13, al though by ri ghts
the correct number should be 12 as one of them onl y
has three walls, the fourth having been destroyed during
construction work on the nei ghbouring Presidential Pal-
ace. The ensembl e was full y restored in 1979 and is well
worth investi gating. A map can be found at Uni versi teto
7 explaining where everything is. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. Admission 5/1Lt. J
Monuments
Frank Zappa A-3, K. Kalinausko 1. Hot Rats! Deceased
rock and roll pervert, part-time classical composer, father of
Moon Unit and all round creative genius Frank Vincent Zappa
(1940-1993) has had his head immortalised in brass and
stuck on a stainless steel pole in a lacklustre courtyard just
west of Old Town. Commissioned by a student and created
by the late sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas (1926-2011) who
once churned out Lenins and other noteworthy comrades for
the bureaucrats in Moscow, the statue is notable as being
the first monument of the man to be erected anywhere in the
world. If youre now wondering what the connection between
Lithuania and Frank Zappa is, dont. There isnt one. J
Grand Duke Gediminas C-2, Arkikatedros Square.
Unveiled in September 1996, the monument to Gediminas
(Pol. Giedymin, 1275-1341), who famousl y founded Vilnius in
1323 and who was also Grand Duke of Lithuania from 1316
until his death, stands more or less on the spot where a howl-
ing iron wolf that inspired the moving of the countrys capital
from Trakai allegedl y appeared in his dream. Strangel y, the
aforementioned beast is represented in V. Kaubas creation
not in metal as one would expect, but in stone. J
Lazdyn Pelda C-5, Karmelit & Arkli. Lazdyn
Pelda (Hazelnut Owl) was the collective pen name of two
sisters, Sofija Ivanauskait-Pibiliauskien (1867-1926) and
Marija Ivanauskait-Lastauskien (1872-1957). Born into a
famil y of Polish-speaking nobility in the village of Paragiai in
northeast Lithuania, their stories, often full of political obser-
vation, were written in Polish by Marija and then translated
into Lithuanian by her sibling. The Egyptian style sculpture
made in their likeness and unveiled in 1995 is officiall y known
as Seserys (Sisters) and is the work of the sculptor Dalia
Matulait and the architects Rimantas Buivydas and Juras
Pankeviius. J
Mindaugas C-1, Arsenalo 1. Taking pride of place outside
the National Museum since Jul y 6, 2003, the 750th anniver-
sary of the crowning of the countrys one and onl y king in
1253, Mindaugas (Pol. Mendog, 1200-1263), whos generally
considered to be the founder of the Lithuanian state, was a
65
what to see
mentioned in Tolstoys War and Peace. The park is more
famous these days as the setting for rock concerts, firework
displays, jogging and the launching of hot-air balloons during
balmy summer evenings. Also within its confines are a botani-
cal gardens and a fabulous little childrens zoo.
Cemeteries
Vilnius extraordinary cemeteries offer an often emotional
and always interesting journey through the rich tapestry
of races and cultures that built the city. For information on
the citys two Jewish cemeteries, see Jewish Vilnius.
Antakalnis Cemetery (Antakalnio Kapins) J/K-2,
Kari Kap 11. Thought to have begun life as a cemetery way
back in 1809, the so-called Soldiers Cemetery (Kari Kapins)
can be found in the forested area of Antakalnis a couple of
kilometres or so from Old Town. The Polish soldiers graveyard,
distinguished by undulating rows of identical headstones, lies
to the left of the entrance. Nearby stands a small collection of
Tartar graves complete with Islamic symbols. To the left and
deeper into the cemetery, large Soviet soldiers guard the (no-
longer burning) eternal flame. To the soldiers right is the ghastly
Soviet memorial encasing the graves of Soviet Lithuanias
dignitaries. Take a hike up the stairs on your left to reach the
red star graves of Soviet soldiers who died fighting Lithuanian
partisans. Perhaps most poignant are the graves of the border
guards murdered by the Soviets at Medininkai on July 31, 1991
and the civilians killed by Soviet paratroopers during the Janu-
ary 1991 demonstrations, all guarded by a stunning Piet. Still
in use, among the more notable recent additions are a large
patch of grass surrounded by a tiny concrete wall and contain-
ing the remains of the Napoleonic soldiers discovered in the
city in 2002, and the final resting place of the often overlooked
Lithuanian composer Antanas Rekaius (1928-2003).
bit of a character to say the least. Clumsy in his personal af-
fairs and switching from paganism to Catholicism and back
to paganism to suit his needs, Mindaugas was eventuall y
assassinated by his nephew and served as little more than
a footnote in Lithuanian history until he was resurrected by
the national revival movement of the late 19th century. R.
Midvikis granite likeness of the man sees him sitting on his
sostas (throne), from which the Li thuanian language gets
its word for capital, sostin, literall y the place where the
throne is. J
Uupis Angel D-3, Uupio. After a long and singularl y
strange career as an oversized egg cup, the tall pillar in the
heart of Vilnius breakaway republic Uupis (where every
dog has the right to be a dog) finall y gave birth to a long
awai ted angel on April 1, 2002, the official independence
day of the wacky district. After a long and sometimes tedi-
ous unveiling ceremony, the covers were finall y lifted, and
in a big burst of billowing balloons the surprisingl y beauti-
ful figure of an angel was revealed, playing a trumpet and
generall y being rather awesome. The work of the Lithuanian
sculptor R. Viliauskas, find it at the junction of Uupio and
Maln. J
emait A-1, Gedimino 27-29. Born into an impoverished
Polish-speaking family with aristocratic roots and affectations,
as a child the Lithuanian novelist emait (real name Julija
Beniueviit-ymantien, 1845-1921) was forbidden to
speak Lithuanian, at the time the language of the common
people. Inquisi ti ve and defiant, the young emai t made
friends with local serfs and was soon fluent in her mother
tongue, the language in which she was eventuall y to write in.
Self taught and unusuall y political for a woman at the time,
emaits sombre tales concentrate on issues surrounding
the miseries of peasant life and famil y squabbles, all written
in the local vernacular. Her statue, the work of the sculptor
Petras Aleksandraviius and architect brothers Algimantas
and Vytautas Nasvytis, was unveiled, somewhat strangel y,
at the height of the Cold War in 1970.
Parks & Gardens
Although they like to flee en masse to the countryside dur-
ing the warmer part of the year, the good people of Vilnius
are also fond of spending time in the citys many public
green spaces. Regardless of the fact that theres very
little in the way of chaos to get away from, Vilnius parks
and gardens can still provide a welcome relief from the
immediate concerns of the 21st century. Here are some of
the highlights.
Kaln Parkas D-1. Covering some 25 hectares immediately
northeast of Old Town at the confluence of the Neris and Vilnia,
Kaln Parkas (Hill Park) is a popular retreat for walks and, during
the summer, concerts on the parks Soviet-era outdoor stage.
Also home to the Hill of Three Crosses (see Places of interest),
the area the park now occupies is shrouded in a number of
contentious mysteries. The so-called Gedimino Kapo Kalnas
(Gediminas Grave Hill) for example, one of the parks four hills
and now a spiritual gathering ground for many followers of the
countrys pagan Romuva organisation, is supposedly the site
where the founder of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, Grand Duke
Gediminas (ca. 1275-1341) is buried. No such evidence exists
to support the claim however.
Vingio Parkas F-4. Situated to the west of the city along
the meandering Neris river, this wooded park covering 160
hectares of pine woods was famed as far back as the 16th
century. Its believed that Alexander I was at a ball here when
he received news of Napoleons invasion in 1812, an event
66
what to see
Jewish vilnius
Bernardine Cemetery (Bernardin Kapins) J-4,
virgdyno 3. Founded in 1810 by Bernardine monks, the
cemetery is perhaps the most attracti ve and romanti c
cemetery in Vilnius. Located over a li ttle less than four
hectares on a rolling hill running down to the Vilnia ri ver,
the cemetery fell into disrepair soon after WWII before
being finall y shut in 1970. Independence has seen i t
flourish wi th the assistance of the Li thuanian and Polish
governments, al though much work remains to be done.
Of particular interest are the columbaria, once used for
holding urns full of ashes and now slowl y crumbling away.
Among the eminent uni versi ty professors, scientists and
painters buried here find a few surprises including Geleda
Dzerzhinskaja (1849-1896), whose claim to fame was gi v-
ing birth to the founder of the forerunner of the KGB, Feli x
Dzerzhinsky (Feliksas Dzerinskis).
Lithuanian Karaite & Tatar Cemetery (Karaim ir
Totori Kapins) irni. Following the destruction in the
mid-1960s of the original cemetery in Lukiks, the former
tradi tional home of the ci tys Li thuanian Karai te and Tatar
communi ties, a new cemetery was opened in a remote area
in the southern part of Vilnius close to the airport. Among
the graves, which are marked in an extraordinary mi xture
of Hebrew (Li thuanian Karai te) and Arabic (Tatar), is that of
the Li thuanian Karai te scientist, historian and head of the
Li thuanian and Polish Karai te communi ties Chadi Seraja
Chan apalas (Pol. Hadi Seraja Chan Szapsza, 1873-
1961). The cemetery is still in use, but is generall y closed
to visi tors (al though the fence surrounding i t is hardl y very
high). According to tradi tion, women are forbidden from visi t-
ing. Find i t on the stretch of irni to the east of the road to
the airport, before the ski slopes on the north side.
Rasos Cemetery (Ras Kapins) I/J-5, Ras/
Sukilli. Founded in 1801 and the final resting place of
many of the countrys social elite, this extraordinary cem-
etery stretched over a large area divided by a main road is
still in use today, providing an extraordinary snapshot of the
cultural history of the city. Hidden away here find the artist and
composer Mikalojus Konstantinas iurlionis (1875-1911), the
author and publicist Jonas Basanaviius (1851-1927), whose
grave is inscribed wi th a peculiar, 19th-century version of
Lithuanian that predates its written standardisation, and the
heart of Marshall Jzef Pisudski (1867-1935), the local-born
Polish general who played a key role in re-establishing Polish
independence in 1918 as well as the countrys subsequent
annexation of Vilnius in 1920. Buried with his mother under
a black granite slab and surrounded by the graves of Polish
soldiers, the rest of him lies in Polands most sacred burial
place under Krakws Wawel Cathedral.
Vingio Parkas Soldiers Cemetery (VIlniaus
Vingio Parko Kari Kapins) F-4, M. K. iurlionio.
A cemetery of one sort or another has been known to exist
here since victims of the plague were buried on the si te in
1710. During the German occupation of Vilnius during WWI
the cemetery was used for soldiers from the German, Turk-
ish, Polish and Russian armies. In 1948 at the height of the
destruction of the final resting places of many of the former
inhabi tants of the ci ty, the Soviet authori ties ripped up the
gravestones and the si te lay abandoned until 1980 when
i t was unceremoniousl y turned into a childrens playground
and public toilet. Thanks to the efforts of the Germans,
the 6.5 hectare si te was renovated in 2001, wi th various
markers and a large monument placed where speci fi c
burial si tes were known to exist. At the eastern entrance
of Vingio Parkas, the cemetery offers a poignant glimpse
inside the former rich ethnic tapestry that once made up
the population of the ci ty.
Astrida G- 3, J. Tumo-Vaiganto 5, tel. (+370)
5 212 27 90, www.astrida.lt. Miscellaneous city
tours and tours further afield in a range of languages
i ncl udi ng such rari ti es as Chi nese, Japanese and
Portuguese. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center
C- 4, Subaiaus 2, tel. 1593, www.bts.lt. Guided
tours around the city, region and country. Must be booked
in advance. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Lithuanian Holidays H-1, eimyniki 1a, tel.
(+370) 5 263 60 64, www.lithuanianholidays.lt.
Jewish and other Vilnius tours. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Oreivysts Centras (Ballooning Centre) H-3,
Ups 5, tel. (+370) 652 005 10, www.ballooning.lt.
As well as organising a wealth of balloon-related activities
nationwide, these people also offer balloon trips over
Vilnius and locations around the country. The trips are
well priced and last on average about one hour.
Vilnius City Tour C-5, Auros Vart 7, tel. (+370)
699 540 64, www.vilniuscitytour.com. Tours of the
historic centre in a number of languages. Also audio
guides available. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30
- 15:00. JA
Sightseeing tours
67
Jewish vilnius
Paneriai Memorial Museum (Paneri Memori-
alinis Muziejus) Agrast 17, tel. (+370) 680 812
78. Between July 1941, and August 1944, approximately
100,000 people of whom over half were Jewish were
murdered at this site by the Nazis and a hotpotch of will-
ing Lithuanians from such sinister organisations as the
Ypatingasis Brys (Vilnius Special Squad). A traumatic
but necessary part of any Jewish-related visit to Lithu-
ania, find several monuments and the remains of the
pits where the victims were burned. The typical Soviet-
era museum inside a small building on the murder site
features exhibits explained in a baffling and irregular mix
of languages including everything from stomach-churning
photography to the clothing worn by a man whose job it
was to sift the remains of the charred bodies for gold.
Not recommended for children. Paneriai (Ponar to the
Jews, Ponary to the Poles) is about 8km southwest of Old
Town. Catch a Trakai- or Kaunas-bound train, get off at
Paneriai and turn right on leaving the station. The site is
at the very end of the road. To get there by car, drive out
on Savanori in the direction of Kaunas until you reach
the E28 highway, peel off here and look for the pitifully few
signs put up in order to help you get there. For a chilling,
eye-witness account of the events that took place here,
read Kazimierz Sakowiczs extraordinary book Ponary
Diary, 1941-1943, published by Yale. Q Museum open
09:00 - 17:00. Fri, Sat by appointment. Admission free.
Paneriai
Professional guides lead tours in English and Hebrew
through the Bal tics and Belarus.
Yulik Gurvitch Tel. (+370) 699 907 09
Ilya Lempertas Tel. (+370) 687 132 85
Regina Kopilevich Tel. (+370) 699 054 56
Justina Petrauskait Tel. (+370) 699 540 64
Daniel Gurevich Tel. (+370) 655 174 91.
Jewish tours
For a complete guide to Jewish Vilnius see the website at
vilnius.inyourpocket.com.
Jewish life
Chabad Lubavitch Centre (Chabad Lubavitch
yd Religin Bendruomen) H-5, Bokto 19/12,
tel. (+370) 615 838 44. Thi s combined communi ty
centre and synagogue is engaged in numerous reli gious
proj ects aimed at enlightening those who need enlighten-
ing and restoring the spiri t and sensibili ties of reli gious
Jewish li fe. Led by the Boston-born Rabbi Shol om Ber
Krinsky, the onl y trul y resident rabbi in Li thuania over the
last decade and a hal f, Chabad is especiall y known for i ts
festi ve Jewish holiday cel ebrations, at whi ch everybody
is wel come. I t also supplies visi tors wi th kosher food and
needed reli gi ous i tems and ser vi ces. QOpen 09:00 -
17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Choral Synagogue (Choralin Sinagoga) H-4,
Pylimo 39, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 23. Buil t in a Moorish
style in 1903, this is the onl y one out of over 100 prewar
Jewish prayer houses that still functions. The term Choral
Synagogue relates to the inclusion of a choir section, a feature
considered by some a revolutionary form of modernisation
and assimilation at the time it was built. Rabbi Chaim Burstein,
who is here part of each month, officiates.
Jewish Community of Lithuania (Lietuvos yd
Bendruomen) A-2, Pylimo 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 30
03, www.lzb.lt. This is the countrys primary address for
its living Jewish people, providing a wide range of cul tural,
communal and social services from kindergarten through to
senior level. Led by the redoubtable Dr. Shimon Alperovich
(Simonas Alperaviius), legendary for standing up for Jewish
rights however and whenever the community comes under
challenge. Along with the two functioning houses of worship,
this is where you can meet the genuine Jewish locals. The
building also houses a youth club, Jewish Student Union,
Union of Former Ghetto and Concentration Camp Inmates and
the Union of WWII Jewish Veterans. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Museums
Holocaust Museum (Holokausto Muziejus) H-4,
Pamnkalnio 12, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 30. The small-
est but most important and best known component of the
three addresses that collecti vel y comprise the ci tys Vilna
Gaon Jewish State Museum, the museum (also known
as the Green House) has been led for many years by the
indomi table champion of Holocaust truth-telling, Rachel
Kostanian. One of i ts founders, Dr. Rachel Margolis, now
in her late 80s, has been in the news for several years as
one of the Jewish anti-Nazi partisan veterans wanted for
questioning by Li thuanian prosecutors. Unable to return
to Li thuania from Israel, her cause has been taken up by
US congressmen, members of the Bri tish House of Lords
and others internationall y. The museum is famous for i ts
unvarnished, accurate account of the Holocaust in Li thuania
and the massi ve local invol vement in the actual killing. I ts
modest, old-fashioned exhibits are far from high modern, but
the heartfel t creation of local Holocaust survi vors. Outside
is a small monument to Japans pre-war Vice Consul to
Li thuania, Chiune Sugihara, who issued thousands of visas
against orders, saving many Jews from certain death. Find
i t at the top of a steep dri veway and invisible to anyone
simpl y walking along on the street below. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 5/2Lt.
Statues & Memorials
Jewish Cemetery (yd Kapins) E-1, Sudervs
Kelias 28. By Soviet order, both old Jewish cemeteries
were destroyed after the war. Wi th the help of forei gn
diplomacy onl y a few graves of famous people such as
the Gaon of Vilna were moved here in a concession to
the communi ty. This new Jewish cemetery was actuall y
opened just before the war and nowadays, especiall y on
Sundays, is a place where Jewish people visi t the graves
of their beloved and you can meet interesting locals. The
Gaons grave attracts visi tors from many countries who
leave notes of supplication by the graveside. To the left of
the entrance is a small office where maps of the cemetery
can be obtained i f i ts open. Gravestones are covered in
the wri ting of many languages including Yiddish, Li thuanian,
Russian, Polish and English. To get there by public transport
from the centre, take bus N73 from the Lukiks stop or
N43 from the station.
Map of the Ghetto (Geto emlapis) B-5,
Rdnink 18. On the si te of the former gate to the larger
of Vilnius two ghettos, find a map showing the size and
posi tioning of the area where the ci tys Jewish population
were kept before liquidation commenced. J
68
getting around
getting around
Bus Trolleybus Both
Single ticket 2Lt* 2Lt* n/a
Monthl y pass
Mon-Fri
75Lt 75Lt 100Lt
Monthl y pass
Mon-Sun
85Lt 85Lt 110Lt
Fine for no ticket 60-100Lt
Public transport tickets
As well as single-journey tickets, tickets valid for 24 hours
(13Lt), 72 hours (23Lt) and 240 hours (46Lt), that can be
used on all city buses and trolleybuses, can be bought from
the small kiosk just to the left of the (B-6) train station close
to the trolleybus stop as well as inside the little (B-1) Klient
Informacinis Centras opposite the Novotel at Gedimino 9a.
A more convenient ticket system for people staying in Vilnius
for extended periods is the e-bilietas. Available for a one-
time payment of 8Lt, e-bilietas ticket prices are the same
as for ordinary tickets. Monthly tickets can be bought in any
Lietuvos Spauda kiosk showing the e-bilietas logo. One-day,
three-day and 10-day tickets can be bought from the small
kiosk (above) or online at www.transportobilietai.lt, which
was at the time of going to press sadly in Lithuanian only.
* From kiosks. Tickets from the driver cost 2.50Lt.
Despite recent creeping taxi (taksi) prices, travelling by taxi
in Vilnius remains relatively cheap, especially if you order
one in advance by telephone. In an attempt to stem the
flow of moonlighters, all taxis in Lithuania are now instantly
recognisable by their compulsory yellow number plates,
although this should in no way lure anyone into believing
this has changed the free-market spirit of the average
taksistas (taxi driver). Taxi drivers in Vilnius are no different
to taxi drivers anywhere else, and will in general take any
opportunity to relieve clients of more money than they need
to. The standard rule is to make sure the meter is running
and set to the correct tariff (generally 1 most of the time
and 2 after midnight) before setting off. Arguments with
taxi drivers are futile, and there are several stories floating
around of drunken foreigners being assaulted when argu-
ing about the fare. Finally, be extremely cautious of hotels
who offer deals with individual taxi companies as they are
usually set at extortionate rates. Prices listed below are for
standard daytime journeys within the city limits.
Taxis
Company Tel. Rate/km*
Ekipaas (+370) 5 239 55 39 2.20Lt
Romerta Plius (+370) 5 278 88 88 2.29Lt
Standart Taxi (+370) 5 240 00 04 2.30Lt
Vilniaus Taksi (+370) 5 261 61 61 2.29Lt
* Prices listed are for standard daytime/evening journeys
As of August 15, tickets for city-owned buses and trolley-
buses will no longer be sold at kiosks. All paper tickets will
need to be bought from the driver at a flat rate of 2.50Lt for
any number of journeys within 30 minutes or 3.50Lt for any
number of journeys within one hour. The changes are part
of a major plan to encourage everyone to use a reusable
electronic ticket, known as a Vilnieio Kortel or e-bilietas
and available from kiosks for 4Lt. These tickets should be
topped up from kiosks and scanned on board all vehicles,
for which the same amount as above will be deducted.
Further information is available online at www.vilniusticket.
lt, a website that is in Lithuanian only.
Major ticket changes
Public transport
Vilnius public transport system is made up of city and private
buses, minibuses and trolleybuses, with most routes running
from 05:00 until around 23:00. Single tickets for city buses
and trolleybuses can be purchased from any Lietuvos Spauda
kiosk or direct from the driver for a little extra. A single ticket
is valid for any one journey of any distance over any period of
time on any singular vehicle. With the exception of a coulple
of new bus services, almost no public transport runs in
Old Town. Travelling by public transport, especially during
rush hour, is not for the faint hearted. Expect to be poked,
squeezed and trod on. Pickpockets work several routes
around the city. Its also worth mentioning that if youre travel-
ling with a bag larger than 60cm x 40cm x 20cm youre liable
for a 20Lt fine if it doesnt have a ticket. See the box at the
bottom of this page for information on major changes to the
ticket system from August 15.
Buses Most buses in Vilnius are owned and operated by the
city, with a few private buses offering a ride for the same price
as a city bus if you bought your ticket from a kiosk (2Lt). For
the uninitiated, recognising which is a private and which is a
city bus isnt easy. As a rule, city buses tend to be blue and
yellow, but not always. Private buses are a little faster as they
dont al ways pull in at every stop along the route, al though
they should. Tickets for private buses are onl y available on
board, and are sold by a conductor who makes a tour of the
vehicle every few stops. If riding on a city bus, single tickets
need to be validated in the appropriate device. Buy a ticket
from the driver if you dont already have one for 2.50Lt.
Minibuses The minibus, or marrutinis taksi to give it its cor-
rect name (you may also hear one referred to as a Latvija), is a
privately-owned phenomenon as favoured in many former Soviet
republics. Often but not always bright yellow, minibuses currently
follow similar routes to buses and trolleybuses, are much faster,
and accordingly cost a little more to use (currently 3Lt). They have
no official stops, so in order to stop one you need to stand by the
side of the road and get its attention by waving your arm. Likewise,
you need to tell the driver when you want to get out again. When
crowded, hand your payment via other passengers to the driver.
At the time of going to press theres a lot of talk about these
routes being changed so they dont clash with the city-owned
buses. Theres also talk of stopping the services altogether. As
usual, nobody knows whats going on, although its interesting
to note the city-owned bus company has just introduced their
first two minibus routes in the city. Coincidence?
Trolleybuses Many of them done up like a French tarts
boudoir, Vilnius upside-down rail way keeps a large part of
the ci tys population on the move. Trolleybuses are often
policed by the sort of sweet old ladies usuall y found staffing
counters in English charity shops, although this lot are trained
in the martial arts, and can effortlessl y remove ticketless lit-
tle boys from vehicles by their ears. Ticket etiquette, should
you prefer to buy one rather than pay a fine or argue with an
elderl y spinster, is the same as for city buses.
Long-distance buses
All long-distance national and international buses leave
from Vilnius main bus station. Tickets for many journeys
can be bought directly from the driver, although its worth
getting one in advance at no extra cost. The ticket office
for national bus services is located inside the waiting room.
Budget travellers might be surprised to learn that bus travel
in Lithuania is more expensive that using the train.
getting around
69
getting around
Street parking in Vilnius is divided into four colour-coded
zones, namely blue, red, yellow and green. Colour-coded
parking meters eat coins and regurgitate a little printed
ticket. Times when payments are required are marked on
blue signs using Roman numerals to represent days, and
numbers to represent times. A sign displaying I-V 8-22
for example means you must pay to park on Monday (I)
to Friday (V) from 08:00 to 22:00. Signs can be hidden
or placed miles away from the parking space in question.
Be careful. A pay-by-SMS system is also in operation,
although in order to use it you must have a local SIM card.
Buy a bar-coded windscreen sticker and register it in order
to use this service if youre planning on living in the city or
staying for an extended period of time. Keep valuables
hidden at all times, including radios if possible.
Parking
Avis Laisvs 3, tel.
(+370) 5 230 68 20,
www.avi s.l t. Mostl y
cars under si x months
old, available with or without a driver. Also at Rodnios
Kelias 2 (Airpor t).QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 16:00.
Bus Station (Autobus Stotis) B-6, Sod 22, tel.
1661, www.toks.lt. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00, Fri 06:00 -
19:30. JA
Lux Express B-6, Sod 20b-1, tel. (+370) 5 233 66
66, www.luxexpress.eu. Also at Sal toniki 9 (Panorama).
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. JA
Trains
Vilnius main train station (geleinkelio stotis) handles
services to a number of destinations within Lithuania as well
as international trains to Belarus, Poland, Russia and Ukraine.
Most tickets can be bought from a row of kiosks to the right of
the main entrance. Tickets for international trains can also be
purchased from a small office inside and immediately to the
left of the main entrance. The general rule is that tickets are
stopped being sold 10 minutes before a train is due to depart.
Train Station (Geleinkelio Stotis) B-6, Geleinkelio
16, tel. (+370) 700 551 11, www.litrail.lt. J
Car rental
Budget Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230
67 08, www.budget.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Rimas Tel. (+370) 698 216 62, rimas.cars@is.lt.
Q Open 24hrs.
Sixt Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 239
56 36, www.sixt.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00.
Airport transfer
ViniusTransfer.com Laisvs 60, tel. (+370) 645 451
24, booking@vilniustransfer.com, www.vilniustransfer.
com. Specialists in minibus, bus and car rental with or without
a driver in Lithuania and further afield, plus a wide range of
transfer services including pri vate transfers, large group
transfers and airport taxis. QOpen 24hrs. A
70
getting around
getting around
Dep Arr Destination Dep Arr
14:30
1
17:15 COLOGNE 10:15
2
14:50
14:30
3
20:00 STUTTGART 08:00
4
14:50
17:00
5
07:20 ROME 19:00
6
09:50
14:30
7
05:45 LONDON 21:30
8
14:50
06:30 10:50 RIGA 07:00 10:55
12:30 17:00 RIGA 10:35 15:00
16:10 20:25 RIGA 12:30 17:00
18:30 22:25 RIGA 18:15 22:20
10:00 14:30 RIGA 02:55 06:55
14:15 18:15 RIGA 08:30 12:40
22:30 02:30 RIGA 14:45 19:05
07:00 11:25 RIGA 16:00 20:40
16:10 00:50 TALLINN 06:00 15:00
10:00 19:05 TALLINN 10:00 19:05
22:30 06:55 TALLINN 22:30 06:55
14:45 03:15 POzNA 01:55 15:50
22:30 10:40 POzNA 18:30 08:45
06:40 10:20 MINSK 14:20 18:00
09:00 12:10 MINSK 16:05 19:45
12:30 16:10 MINSK 19:00 22:30
14:45 22:10 WARSAW 06:05 15:50
22:30 05:40 WARSAW 23:05 08:45
*only 01 06 - 31 08,
1
1 2* 3* 4 5* 6 -,
2
1 - 3* 4 5* 6 7,
3
1 - - 4 - 6 7*,
4
1 2* - 4 - 6 -,
5
- - - 4* - 6 -,
6
1 - - - - 6* -,
7
1 2* 3* 4 5* 6 -,
8
1* 2* 3 4* 5 6* 7
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to
change during the lifetime of this guide. Not all services
listed. More information at www.eurolines.lt
International bus schedule
From Vilnius To Vilnius
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
04:50 06:47 IGNALINA 04:09 05:55
08:31 10:23 IGNALINA 05:15 06:52
11:22 13:15 IGNALINA 06:56 08:18
15:00 16:48 IGNALINA 08:50 10:23
16:43
1
18:34 IGNALINA 12:28 14:23
18:24 20:08 IGNALINA 15:16 17:11
19:32 20:54 IGNALINA 18:40 20:29
20:49 22:25 IGNALINA 20:10 21:44
04:38
5
12:01 KALININGRAD 09:55
8
15:26
10:47
6
9
17:28
13:12
7
10
22:19
04:25
1
05:31 KAUNAS 04:52
3
06:30
04:54 06:37 KAUNAS 05:32 07:20
06:20 07:35 KAUNAS 06:20
1
07:35
07:27 08:45 KAUNAS 06:57 08:41
08:42 10:26 KAUNAS 08:08 09:23
10:25 11:38 KAUNAS 09:09 10:40
11:15 12:29 KAUNAS 10:52 12:40
11:40 13:23 KAUNAS 12:07 13:22
13:50 15:05 KAUNAS 13:40 15:15
14:45 16:30 KAUNAS 15:22 17:10
16:30 17:34 KAUNAS 17:00 18:15
16:36 18:19 KAUNAS 07:10 19:00
17:27 18:35 KAUNAS 17:54 19:09
17:47 19:16 KAUNAS 18:43 20:29
18:30 20:14 KAUNAS 19:40 20:55
19:40 20:56 KAUNAS 20:15 21:44
20:40
2
22:11 KAUNAS 21:16 22:34
06:45 11:12 KLAIPDA 06:50 11:34
09:41 14:40 KLAIPDA 11:50 16:29
17:40 22:17 KLAIPDA 17:05 21:54
07:05 10:05 MINSK 05:42
11
10:30
16:55 21:39 MINSK 23:52
12
04:21
17:45
9
22:02 MINSK
22:36
10
02:56 MINSK
15:43
13
11:09 ST. PETERSBURG 18:22
14
12:55
19:32 10:25 ST. PETERSBURG 19:40 08:18
06:45 09:17 IAULIAI 08:55 11:34
09:41 12:18 IAULIAI 13:51 16:29
17:40 20:12 IAULIAI 19:11 21:54
04:07 04:49 TRAKAI 05:26 06:09
05:12 05:52 TRAKAI 06:04
1
06:47
06:05 06:42 TRAKAI 07:15 07:54
07:41 08:21 TRAKAI 08:32 09:13
10:31
4
11:08 TRAKAI 11:23
4
12:02
12:30 13:06 TRAKAI 13:21 14:00
13:29 14:05 TRAKAI 14:20 14:59
15:35 16:11 TRAKAI 16:38 17:17
18:15 18:52 TRAKAI 19:26 20:05
20:20 21:04 TRAKAI 21:28 22:11
1
- Mon- Fri,
2
- Mon-Fri, Sun,
3
- Mon- Sat,
4
till 31 08 2012
5
- till 01 09 2012. From 02 09 2012 odd days of the month.
6
- till 01 09 2012. From 03 09 2012 even days of the month.
7
- till 30 08 2012 and 01 09 2012 odd days of the month.
From 02 09 2012 only Thu and Mon.
8
- till 31 08 2012 odd
days of the month. From 01 09 2012 only Tue and Sat.
9
- till
31 08 2012. From 01 09 2012 odd days of the month.
10
- till
31 08 2012. From 02 09 2012 even days of the month.
11
-
till 01 09 2012. From 03 09 2012 even days of the month.
12
- till 01 09 2012. From 02 09 2012 odd days of the month.
13
- till 31 08 2012 odd days of the month. From 01 09 2012
only Tue and Sat.
14
- till 30 08 2012 even days of the month.
From 02 09 2012 only Wed and Sun.
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to
change during the lifetime of this guide. More information
at www.litrail.lt. Valid until November 30, 2012.
Train schedule Airport
Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilni-
aus Oro Uostas) Rodnios Kelias 10a, tel. (+370) 5
230 66 66, www.vno.lt. Vilnius International Airport, si tu-
ated approximatel y 5km south of the ci ty centre, is small
and relati vel y easy to use. A restaurant and bar can be found
above the main entrance for fond farewells and devilishl y
expensi ve cognac. A limi ted hotchpotch of Duty Free shops
and cafs are located the other side of customs control.
Free wireless internet is available throughout the airport.
To get there by bus (see Public transport for information
on tickets), take N2 from Lukiki Aikt or N1 from the
train station, or use the shuttle train service that departs
from the train station every 30 minutes between 06:30
and 19:30. Buy a ticket on board for just 2Lt. A taxi from
Old Town currentl y costs around 50Lt using a hotel-booked
firm, al though you can pay considerabl y less i f you can get
a friendl y local to order you one from a cheaper company.
By calling the right company in advance (try tel. (+370) 5
266 66 66) a recent visi tor to the ci ty managed to make
the trip for just 18Lt.
Cycling
Lithuania is as flat as a pancake, has relatively little
traffic, a bracing coastline and lots of interesting places
to see and explore making it an attractive destination for
cyclists. Likewise, Vilnius is criss-crossed with cycle paths,
is positively overflowing with parks and wherever you are
in the city youre never more than a brisk 15-minute pedal
from the countryside. A well established, national non-
profit organisation exists to help cyclists in many ways.
Baltic Cycle offers everything from maps, cycling tours
and even bicycle rental where you can pick up a machine
in one country and drop it off in another. Political cyclists
getting around
71
getting around
DRUSKININKAI
07:20, 08:40, 09:35, 10:00, 11:00, 12:10, 13:05, 14:20,
15:40, 16:15
1
, 17:10, 17:55
1
, 18:20, 18:40, 20:30.
KAUNAS
05:40, 06:20, 06:30, 07:00, 07:15, 07:30, 07:40, 08:10,
08:20, 09:00, 09:20, 09:30, 09:45, 10:05, 10:30, 10:45,
11:00, 11:30, 11:45, 12:10, 12:20, 12:35, 13:00, 13:30,
14:00, 14:35, 15:00, 15:15, 15:30, 16:05, 16:25, 17:00,
17:25, 18: 00, 18:15, 18:40, 19: 00
1
, 19:20, 19:45,
21:10.
KLAIPDA
06:00, 06:35, 07:00, 07:50, 08:50, 11:35, 11:55, 13:20,
14:50, 16:00, 16:45, 17:30, 18:30.
PALANGA
06:50, 08:50, 11:00, 11:55, 13:20, 14:50, 16:45, 18:30.
TRAKAI
07:10, 08:20
2
, 08:55
2
, 09:15, 09:30, 09:45, 10:40, 13:00,
13:30, 14:00, 14:40, 15:20, 16:10, 16:40, 17:00, 17:45,
18:10, 18:45
4
, 20:00.
1
- Fri, Sun,
2
- Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat,
3
- Sun,
4
- Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun.
Valid until November 30, 2012.
Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to press
and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. The
website at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the best resource for
up-to-date, accurate information about travelling by bus in
Lithuania.
Local bus schedule
Flight schedule
Days Dep. Arrival Destination Days Dep. Arrival
1 5 19:30 21:55
till 26 10
BARCELONA
till 26 10
(WZZ) 1 5 22:30 02:55
(+1)*
3 7 21:30 00:05
(+1)* till 24 10
BARCELONA
till 24 10
(RYR) 3 7 16:30 21:05
3 7 06:05 07:25
till 24 10
BERGEN
till 24 10
(FLESLAND) (WZZ) 3 7 07:55 11:15
3 10:00 10:50
15 08 - 24 10
BREMEN
15 08 - 24 10
(RYR) 3 06:45 09:35
5 10:50 11:40
17 08 - 26 10
BREMEN
17 08 - 26 10
(RYR) 5 07:35 10:25
1 10:10 11:00
from 20 08 till 22 10
BREMEN
20 08 - 22 10
(RYR) 1 06:55 09:45
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00 15:40 BRUSSELS (BRU) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 13:30
1 2 3 4 5 16:10 16:40 COPENHAGEN (SAS) 1 2 3 4 5 13:10 15:40
7 15:10 15:40 COPENHAGEN (SAS) 7 12:10 14:40
1 2 3 4 5 16:10 16:40
till 26 10
COPENHAGEN (SK) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:55 23:25
6 14:15 14:50 COPENHAGEN (SAS) 6 11:10 13:40
7 15:10 15:40
till 21 10
COPENHAGEN
till 21 10
(SK) 7 12:10 14:40
in Vilnius will be pleased to hear that the city now holds its
very own Critical Mass (Kritin Mas) on the last Friday of
every month, weather permitting, starting from Cathedral
Square at 18:00 sharp.
Veloklinika.lt G-4, A. Domaeviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 606
877 54, www.veloklinika.lt. Tucked away in a courtyard
on the small street connecting Kudirkos with Pamnkalnio,
this highl y recommended bicycle repair workshop is staffed
mostl y by young gentlemen listening to Bob Marley with the
addition of one older fellow. All maintenance and repair work
is undertaken, all of i t to a high standard and for a good
price. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by
appointment onl y.
Travel agencies
Amber Tours H-4, Pamnkalnio 34b, tel. (+370) 5
275 69 85, www.ambertours.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Baltic Clipper G-3, Gedimino 64, tel. (+370) 5 231 23
23, www.bc.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center C-4,
Subaiaus 2, tel. 1593, www.bts.lt. QOpen 08:00 -
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
BPC Travel H-3, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 210
25 90, www.bpctravel.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Kelioni Panorama I-3, eimyniki 21, tel. (+370) 5
261 87 26, www.kelioniupanorama.lt. QOpen 09:00 -
18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Krantas Travel A-1, A. Vienuolio 6, tel. (+370) 5 231
33 14, www.krantas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
VeloCity Tours & Rent C-5,
Auros Vart 12, tel. (+370)
674 121 23, info@velovilnius.lt,
www.velo-city.lt. A local organisa-
tion that rents bicycles, organises
city tours by bicycle, provides maps
and information about cycling in
the city, sells used bicycles, runs a
self-repair workshop (15:00 - 19:00)
and bicycle repair shop (both at Kauno 5) and organises free
cycling events. Their free daily bicycle tour and the All Sides
of Vilnius tour both begin at 11:00 at the bicycle rental point
Auros Vart 12. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Also at Kauno 5.
Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Lithuanian Tours I-2, eimyniki 18, tel. (+370) 5 272
41 54, www.lithuaniantours.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Fri 09:00 - 16:45. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Ryanair Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232
93 77, www.ryanair.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun
15:00 - 21:00.
Senamiesio Gidas C-5, Auros Var t 7, tel.
(+370) 5 261 55 58, www.vilniuscitytour.com.
QOpen 09: 30 - 17: 00, Sat, Sun 09: 30 - 15: 00.
JA
The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind D-3, Uupio 23-9,
tel. (+370) 616 200 07, www.nevermind.lt. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. JA
Visit Lithuania B-2, L. Stuokos Guceviiaus 1, tel.
(+370) 5 262 52 41, www.visitlithuania.net. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
72
getting around
Mail & Phones
1 2 3 4 5 12:40 13:15
20 08 - 26 10
COPENHAGEN
20 08 - 26 10
(SK) 1 2 3 4 5 09:35 12:05
2 4 6 17:45 19:10
till 02 10
CORK
till 26 10
(WZZ) 2 4 6 19:40 00:50
(+1)*
2 6 17:45 19:10
06 10 - 27 10
CORK
06 10 - 27 10
(WZZ) 2 6 19:40 00:50
(+1)*
2 6 19:05 19:55 DONCASTER (SHEFIELD) (WZZ) 2 6 20:25 00:55
(+1)*
2 4 6 22:45 23:45 DUBLIN (RYR) 2 4 6 17:20 22:20
2 4 6 23:50 01:10
(+1)*
DUBLIN (EIN) 2 4 6 18:00 23:05
2 4 6 06:40 08:00 EINDHOVEN (WZZ) 2 4 6 14:00 17:10
1 05:50 07:05
till 22 10
FRANKFURT/MAIN
till 21 10
(DLH) 7 10:55 14:00
2 3 4 5 06:00 07:15
till 26 10
FRANKFURT/MAIN
till 26 10
(DLH) 1 3 4 5 10:50 13:55
6 7 06:00 07:15 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) 6 10:50 13:55
1 3 5 14:40 15:55
till 26 10
FRANKFURT/MAIN
till 23 10
(DLH) 2 11:05 14:10
4 7 14:50 16:05
till 25 10
FRANKFURT/MAIN
till 25 10
(DLH) 2 3 4 22:20 23:25
6 14:40 15:55 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) 6 20:20 23:25
2 14:55 16:10
till 23 10
FRANKFURT/MAIN
till 26 10
(DLH) 1 5 7 20:30 23:35
1 2 3 4 5 11:45 12:55
till 26 10
HELSINKI
till 26 10
(VANTAA) (FIN) 1 2 3 4 5 09:45 11:00
2 3 4 5 6 18:05 19:20 HELSINKI (VANTAA) (FIN) 2 3 4 5 6 06:15 17:30a
2 4 6 10:10 11:25 KARLSRUHE (BADEN BADEN) (RYR) 2 4 6 06:35 06:35
1 2 3 4 5 6 05:35 07:05 KYIV (BORISPOL) (AEW) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:30 16:20
7 07:05 08:35 KYIV (BORISPOL) (AEW) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:15 00:05
(+1)*
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:20 18:50 KYIV (BORISPOL) (AEW)
1 5 11:15 12:25
till 26 10
LIVERPOOL
till 26 10
(WZZ) 1 5 17:35 12:55
1 3 4 5 6 7 06:10 07:00 LONDON (LUTON) (WZZ) 1 3 4 5 6 7 07:30 12:10
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:50 22:30 LONDON (STANSTED) (RYR) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:50 21:25
3 5 10:30 12:05
05 09 - 26 10
MILAN
05 09 - 26 10
(BERGAMO ORIO AL
SERIO) (RYR)
3 5 06:30 10:05
1 11:00 12:35
till 22 10
MILAN
till 22 10
(BERGAMO ORIO AL SERIO)
(RYR)
1 07:00 10:35
2 4 6 12:55 14:25 MILAN (BERGAMO ORIO AL SERIO) (RYR) 2 4 6 14:55 18:20
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 05:40 08:05 MOSCOW
till 30 08
(SHEREMETYEVO) (AFL) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:40 22:15
MOSCOW
31 08 - 09 09
MOSCOW
10 09 - 26 10
1 7 13:30 16:10
till 22 10
MOSCOW
till 22 10
(DOMODEDOVO) (TSO) 1 7 12:05 12:40
4 18:30 21:10
till 25 10
MOSCOW
till 25 10
(DOMODEDOVO) (TSO) 4 16:55 17:40
6 10:20 13:00 MOSCOW (DOMODEDOVO) (TSO) 6 08:50 09:30
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 09:00 MOSCOW (VNUKOVO) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:50 22:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:50 17:55 MOSCOW (VNUKOVO) (UTA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:40 12:40
3 7 12:55 13:50
till 24 10
OSLO
till 24 10
(SANDEJFORD) (WZZ) 3 7 14:20 17:15
1 5 12:55 14:40
till 26 10
PARIS
till 26 10
(BEAUVAISTILLE) (WZZ) 1 5 15:10 18:55
1 5 13:10 14:50
till 26 10
PARIS
till 26 10
(BEAUVAISTILLE) (RYR) 1 5 09:00 12:45
3 18:45 20:25
till 24 10
PARIS
till 24 10
(BEAUVAISTILLE) (RYR) 3 14:35 18:20
2 4 15:00 15:40
till 25 10
PRAGUE
till 25 10
(RUZYNE) (CSA) 2 4 11:35 14:15
1 2 3 4 5 04:55 05:50
till 26 10
RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 06:45 07:40
6 05:05 06:00 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:40 11:35
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:30 09:25 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:20 14:15
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:05 11:00 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:35 19:30
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:00 12:55 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:35 00:40
(+1)*
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:30 16:25 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 23:45 00:40
(+1)*
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:05 21:00 RIGA (BT)
6 14:20 16:15 ROME (CIAMPINO) (RYR) 6 10:00 13:55
2 4 14:40 16:32
till 25 10
ROME
till 25 10
(CIAMPINO) (RYR) 2 4 10:20 14:15
1 2 3 4 5 6 06:00 07:00 TALLINN (ULEMISTE) (ELL) 1 2 3 4 5 6 07:35 09:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 09:25 10:55 TALLINN till 26 10 (ULEMISTE) (ELL) 1 2 3 4 5 14:00 15:05
1 2 3 4 5 16:00 17:00
till 26 10
TALLINN
till 26 10
(ULEMISTE) (ELL) 1 2 3 4 5 7 19:50 21:15
1 2 3 4 5 7 21:40 23:10
till 26 10
TALLINN
till 26 10
(ULEMISTE) 1 2 3 4 5 7 23:50 00:50
(+1)*
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:40 14:30 VIENNA (AUA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 12:55
1 2 4 5 6 06:25 06:30
20 09 - 27 10
WARSAW (LOT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:45 14:10
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:50 15:15 WARSAW (LOT) 2 5 6 22:35 00:40
(+1)*
Valid until 27 10 2012.
*+ 1
arrival next day
Airline codes: WZZ - Wizz Air, SK - Scandinavian Airlines, BT - Air Baltic, SNBA - Brussels Airlines, DLH - Lufthansa,
AEW - Aerosvit Airlines, AFL - Aeroflot, UTA - Utair Aviation, TSO - Transaero, LOT - Polish Airlines, CSA - Czech
Airlines, ELL - Estonian Air, RYR - Ryanair, AUA - Austrian Airlines, FIN - Finnair, EIN Aerlingus.
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. Airport information is on
p. 70.
Flight schedule continued
getting around
73
Mail & Phones
Prepaid SIM cards
Card Price
(Lt)
Local
(Lt/min)
London
(Lt/min)
Top-up
(Lt)
SMS
(Lt)
Voicemail
(Lt/call)
Coverage
Bit (Labas) 6 0.49 1.99 5/10/20/40/99 0.11 0.10 99%
Omnitel (Eys) 5 0.46 2.03 From 5 0.10 Free 99%
TELE2 (Pildyk) 4.50 0.48 1.85 5/7/10/15/20/35/50 0.10 0.15 96%
Note All prices quoted are for peak-time calls, and are subject to change during the lifespan of this guide.
Wireless W If youre wireless enabled, youre ready to go
online. There are many cafs, restaurants, hotels and public
spaces in Vilnius that are a part of a network of paid wireless
internet hotspots. Notable locations include the whole of
Pilies and Gedimino, the citys tourist information centres and
the airport, of which the latter also has a few areas where
you can connect for free. To use these hotspots, just turn
your wireless on and choose the Zebra network. When you
open your web browser youll see a page with instructions
and prices. You can pay via SMS if youve got a local SIM
card. Be warned, however, that the Zebra network is neither
cheap nor particularly reliable. Several cafs and hotel lob-
bies around town provide free wireless access.
3G Both Bit (www.bite.lt) and Omnitel (www.omnitel.lt)
provide 3G services for laptop connection to the internet
allegedly wherever you are within Lithuania. What you actu-
ally get is far from perfect, but if youre prepared for slightly
slower speeds than broadband, your connection dropping
out a few times a day and incompatible software that could
conflict with your operating system then one of these
services might be just for you. With the added convenience
of GPRS backup for obscure locations, both companies
offer a range of prepaid and contract options.
Dialup Assuming youve got an RJ-11 plug on the end of
your cable (visitors from the UK please note that you prob-
ably dont), a nifty, hassle-free dialup option is available for
those who cant find any other connection. Simply dial tel.
890 15 55 55 from anywhere in the country using your dial-
up software of choice leaving the username and password
blank and away you go. Calls are charged at a standard
0.12Lt/min at all times from a private line (this figure may
well be a lot higher in a hotel), and everything is charged
directly to whoevers telephone account youre using.
Laptop login
Emergency numbers
Police Fire Ambulance Tel. 112
Postal rates
Lithuania EU Outside EU
Letter (44g) 1.65Lt 2.95Lt 3.35Lt
Postcard (20g) 1.55Lt 2.45Lt 2.90Lt
CD (130g) 2.50Lt 5.90Lt 11.75Lt
Express mail rates
London Paris New York
DHL 170Lt 170Lt 240Lt
EMS 215Lt 213Lt 210Lt
TNT 163Lt 181Lt 265Lt
UPS 174Lt 192Lt 279Lt
Comparative rates for sending a package weighing a
maximum of 500g.
Post
Central Post Office (Centrinis Patas) B-1, Ge-
dimino 7, tel. (+370) 700 554 00, www.post.lt. The
glorious 1969 Soviet design inside the citys main post office
betrays a recentl y improved service thats finall y catching up
with the 21st century. A ticket machine has been installed with
instructions in English, making a visit finally something to look
forward to rather than the nightmare it was in the past. Se-
lecting a ticket in English should send you to a window where
somebody speaks it. Note the extraordinary calendar on the
wall on the right at the back that needs changing by hand
dail y. Late night post offices operate in two of the citys large
shopping centres at Ozo 25 (Akropolis), open 10:00 - 22:00,
and Sal toniki 9 (Panorama), open 10:00 - 22:00. QOpen
07:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
Mobile phones
Bit G-5, emaits 15, tel. (+370) 699 232 30, www.
bite.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Omnitel B-1, Gedimino 12, tel. 1533, www.omnitel.lt.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
TELE2 G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 601 102 00,
www.tele2.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Internet cafs
Takas G-4, J. Jasinskio 1/8 (entrance from V. Kudirkos,
2nd floor), tel. (+370) 685 240 24. Reasonabl y central,
climb the flight of stairs and fight with the teenagers for a
battered albeit perfectl y decent PC. Q Open 24hrs.
Express mail
DHL Dariaus ir Girno 81, tel. (+370) 5 236 07 00, www.
dhl.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
EMS Rodnios Kelias 9, tel. (+370) 5 239 83 28,
www.post.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. 1
TNT Dariaus ir Girno 44, tel. (8-800) 252 22, special-
services.vno@tnt.com, www.tnt.lt. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30.
Closed Sat, Sun.
UPS E-5, Eiguli 15, tel. (+370) 5 247 22 22, www.sku-
biossiuntos.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
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Unless youre Latvian or Polish, you probably didnt come
to Vilnius to shop. However, shopping is fun, and, in the
case of certain products (notably Lithuanian alcohol, ciga-
rettes and amber) a hell of a lot cheaper than it is in the
West. The main shopping areas in Vilnius can be divided
neatly into the two areas of Old Town (antiques, amber,
books old and new and some nice pieces of art) and parts
of the citys classiest street, Gedimino (designer clothes,
mobile phones and more books). The citys markets are
also well worth a visit for an authentic, blast to the past
experience if nothing else, as indeed are the increasing
number of large shopping centres around the edge of the
city, where among other things youll find all the clothing
and footwear shops weve chosen not to list here.
Shopping centres
Akropolis G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt. A
huge place full of shops and the flocks that visit them. In case
shopping isnt your thing, you can try ice-skating, bowling, or see
a film. Theres also a good range of restaurants and a constant
cacophonous argument between the cheap car alarms in the
enormous car park. Not very central, find it about 3km north of
the action. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAULXW
Europa H-3, Konstitucijos 7a, tel. (+370) 616 956 80,
www.pceuropa.lt. In the heart of the business district just
north of the river, find three floors of mostl y clothes shops
plus a couple of restaurants and a handful of little pods for
drinking coffee in. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
PTALW
Gedimino 9 B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 262 98 12,
www.gedimino9.lt. Located inside a grand 19th-century
building in the heart of the city, this bustling shopping centre
includes a wide range of retail outlets selling everything from
fashion to fish, some great antique stalls, restaurants and
cafs, a gallery and even a place for small business start-ups.
Best of all are the highl y recommended Studio 9 restaurant
and the free wireless internet throughout.QOpen 10:00 -
20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PJAW
IKI Commercial Centre I-2, irmn 2, tel. (+370) 5
272 19 68, www.iki.lt. This three-floor shopping centre
features a large Iki supermarket at ground level, a handful of
average shops downstairs and up the escalators some fashion
outlets, a shoe shop, a ili Kaimas restaurant and, at the time
of going to press, a small kiosk selling ready-made sushi. Also
at J. Jasinkio 16. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAUL
Ozas H-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 50, www.ozas.lt.
Opened in August 2009, the large Ozas shopping centre offers
more gargantuan shopping and restaurant services to the city.
Find inside a veritable cavalcade of shops selling everything
from designer clothes to food. The large Prisma supermarket
stocks one of the most extensive ranges of alcohol in Vilnius.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAULXW
Panorama G/F-2, Saltoniki 9, tel. (+370) 5 219
58 11, www.panorama.lt. Loads of retail outlets, enter-
tainment centres and restaurants close to the centre in
vrynas. Many high street names, a top floor of restaurants,
the countrys first electric go-carting centre and smoking
rooms next to the public toilets. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
PTAULXW
Rimi Hypermarket G-4, Savanori 16, tel. (+370)
5 246 12 00, www.rimi.lt. Not qui te everything under
one roof (they dont sell roofs for example), but not far
off i t. A huge heated expanse offering electrical goods,
clothes, books, tools, toys and household essentials as
well as a fairl y extensi ve collection of local and imported
foodstuffs. Also a few other shops inside the same building.
Also at irmn 64, Atei ties 91. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
AL
VCUP H-3, Konstitucijos 16, tel. (+370) 5 273 15 15,
www.vcup.lt. Once colossal, this former flagship Soviet
shopping sensation looks more like a corner shop than an
experience these days. Limited retail and dining just north of
the river. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAULW
Markets
Shopping in a Lithuanian market (turgus), although
perhaps not for the faint hearted, is an experience to
be savoured if at all possible when visiting the country.
Remember that many things can be haggled down in
price, and please watch your wallets, especially during the
weekends.
Akropolio Blus Turgus G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.
akropolis.lt. Catching on to the latest craze to sweep the
nation, this weekl y flea market outside the vast Akropolis
shopping centre features a fairl y decent selection of stalls
selling everything from old paintings to Soviet memorabilia.
QOpen Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri,
Sat.
Collectors Club (Kolekcinink Klubas) G-4, V.
M. Putino 5. What started out as a small gathering of
like-minded aficionados trading miscellaneous antiqui ties
in exchange for a bi t of pocket money has slowl y evol ved
into a serious weekl y event. Stretched out round two full
sides of the Trade Union Palace as well as inside, i tems
up for grabs include ever ything from Czechosl ovakian
clarinets to furni ture to WWII-era Nazi propaganda post-
ers in Li thuanian. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Cl osed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun.
shoPPing
VILNIUS
OZO STR. 25, WWW.AKROPOLIS.LT
The biggest shopping
centre in Baltics!
AKROPOLIS offers You the best shopping experience in Vilnius: over 240 stores
with world known brands, 14 restaurants, a cinema, an ice rink, a bowling alley
and a childrens playground. Open daily 10:00 22:00.
Tax free service at most of the shops.
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Hals Market (Hals Turgus) C-5, Pylimo 58/1, tel.
(+370) 5 262 55 36, www.halesturgaviete.lt. The mod-
ern, glass-covered affair to the left selling clothing that went
out of fashion in Albania in the 1980s and raw meat at the
back is perhaps best worth avoiding, whereas the beautifull y
restored brick building dating from 1900 to the right is more
than worth a look inside. A trip through the doors rewards
visitors with a nasal blast of several tonnes of smoked meat,
which can be bought in here along with a few other specialities
including fresh fruit and vegetables plus a nice range of locally-
produced honey you can taste before you purchase. QOpen
07:00 - 17:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. J
Kalvarij Market (Kalvarij Turgus) H-2, Kalvarij
61, tel. (+370) 696 357 18. Featuring everything from old
ladies selling garlic bulbs and carrier bags to the occasional
bargain goat (cash onl y), one of the citys most endangered
species is a must-see attraction for anyone who wants a
taste of what the rest of the countrys reall y like. One of the
best places in town for meat, locall y-produced honey and
cameras manufactured in the CCCP, also find tropical fish,
manbags, Minsk bicycles and cheap cigarettes from the
Roma girls near the main entrance. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon.
Sostins Turgus H-2, Kalvarij 88, tel. (+370) 613
252 50. Opened towards the end of 2010, presumabl y as
a way of threatening the nearby and highl y recommended
Kal varij Market who many in power would like to see closed,
this dreadful indoor market would be an embarrassment in a
poverty-stricken Siberian village. Totall y low budget, expect
a hopeless selection of awful clothing and not a lot more.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Souvenir Market (Suvenyr Turgus) C-2/3, Pilies
23. The onl y market we list aimed exclusivel y at foreigners
wallets is a predominantl y lacklustre hotchpotch of stalls
selling amber, linen, wood carvings, hand-kni tted socks,
Soviet-era bits and pieces and a few paintings. Some pieces
are reall y nice, but most of the stuff here is very average.
Every tourist destination has one. This is Vilnius. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00. J
Tymo Turgus D-4, Auktaii/Maironio, tel. (+370)
612 289 26. Labouring under the unofficial moniker The
Little Good Food & Cul ture Festival, this once-a-week jaunt
into the world of possible al ternatives churns out all manner
of environmentally friendly food from local farmers and well as
soaps, cosmetics and the like. Politicall y edgy in the fluffiest
sense, the market also hosts a regular event where people
can vent their spleens a la Hyde Park Corner, plus theres a
place to go for free second-hand clothing and the occasional
musical performance. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun.
Verslo Parkas Garinai 4km from Vilnius just off the
Kaunas highway, www.gariunai.lt. Covering a vast area of
120 hectares (there are some who say its the largest outdoor
market in Europe) and attracting an average 50,000 shoppers
every day, Garinai sells cars on one side of the road plus all
manner of cheap consumer goods of dubious quality on a truly
expansive scale on the other. A taxi from a reputable firm costs
around 30Lt to get there from the city centre. Alternatively,
look for the minibuses around the train and bus stations with
Garinai signs on the front. QOpen 06:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu
04:00 - 14:00, Sat 05:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
Amber
According to local legend, amber (gintaras) originates
from the tears of the sea goddess Jrat and the stones
from her castle, which was destroyed by Perknas, the
pagan god of thunder, when he discovered her passionate
love affair with the mortal fisherman Kastytis. Scientists,
not generally being of the pagan faith, think different.
Some 40 million years ago or thereabouts the earth got
warmer, causing an increase in the secretion of resin in
the pine forests in the region. The streams of resin swept
down rivers and into the Baltic Sea, sometimes sweeping
up a stray bug along the way. Its this fossilised resin that
now sits in deltaic deposits off the coasts of Kaliningrad,
Lithuania, Poland and Sweden. Ask most people and
theyll tell you amber is a dark honey colour. However, visit
anywhere selling the stuff and youll soon see it comes
in such diverse colours as blue, black, white and yellow.
White amber is called royal amber and is widely available
in Lithuania. Blue and black amber are more rare here.
Amber C-5, Auros Vart 9, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 88,
www.ambergift.lt. An astounding Aladdins cave of amber.
The walls and ceiling are plastered with glowing chips of the
stuff while display cabinets are full of jewellery, sculptures
and more. Worth visi ting even i f youre not interested in
shopping. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00 (until Sept 30). Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun (from Oct 1). JA
Amber Museum-Gallery C-3, v. Mykolo 8, tel. (+370)
5 262 30 92, www.ambergallery.lt. A great little place
apt at displaying amber at its best. The knowledgeable and
friendl y staff speak English, and can waffle on for hours about
the stuff if you want to know all about it. Also at v. Mykolo
12. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA
Beata Amber C-3/4, Stikli 9/10, tel. (+370) 5 234 46
85, www.beataamber.lt. As much a wholesaler as retailer,
you can pick up amber at a variety of stages of production
here. There are hunks of raw amber, various polished beads
and blobs that you can use to make your own jewellery and
fine finished creations. Also at M. K. iurlionio 84 (Crowne Plaza
Vilnius), Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva). Q Open
10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. JA
shoPPing
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Antiques
Unless the item in question is less than 50 years old,
some degree of bureaucracy will almost certainly be
required to get antiques out of the country. A reputable
antiques salesperson will assist you with this. If they cant,
you might like to think again about making the purchase.
e.k.art C-4, Didioji 27, tel. (+370) 605 222 22, info@
ek-art.lt, www.ek-art.lt. An incredible collection of paint-
ings, furniture, religious objects and other works of art from
Lithuania, Russia, Germany and beyond established over two
decades ago and one of the most reliable places in town to
buy antiques. An excellent place to know about for all seri-
ous collectors, the shop now also stocks a range of antique
Persian carpets. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Fabra Ars C-4, Didioji 20, tel. (+370) 652 815 58. Classic
and original artworks, mostly from the 18th and 19th centuries.
Mostly of interest to collectors and dealers. QOpen 11:00 -
19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Senasis Kuparas B-3, Dominikon 14, tel. (+370) 5
262 10 24. An excellent shop full of beautiful and highl y
sought-after pieces adjoining a shop selling some quite ex-
quisite glassware. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. JA
Vilnius Antiques Centre C-3, Dominikon 16, tel.
(+370) 5 262 74 79, www.antiques.lt. A wide selection
of paintings, icons, furniture, silverwear and other curiosities.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Books etc.
Bookworms and cheapskates should note that in addition
to the following bookshops, reading matter can be found
at various libraries listed in our Directory. International
press is best found in the citys better hotels, of which
some offer a pre-ordering service for newspapers and
magazines they dont usually stock.
Akademin Knyga C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5
266 16 80, www.humanitas.lt. A wide range of works for
lexicographers, plus the usual dictionaries, reference books and
paperback novels. One of the better places in town for foreign
literature, which youll find in the back room downstairs. Q Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun (Sept - June). Open
10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun (July and August). JA
Didysis Pegasas G-1, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 5
238 77 52, www.pegasas.lt. A bit of a way to go but the trips
usually worth it. Upstairs is a selection of paperbacks in English
that vary in quantity from a handful to over 1,000. To the left as
you enter is a good selection of titles on art, photography etc. To
the right find guidebooks aplenty. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
Draugyst B-2, Gedimino 2, tel. (+370) 5 268 50
80, www.vaga.lt. This former largish bookshop recentl y
removed half its stock and replaced it with a caf operated
by the best caf chain in the country. The English-language
novels can still be counted on one hand, but now theres a
reason to visit. Also find a decent selection of books about
Lithuania in English. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Fri 07:00 - 22:00,
Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. JA
French Bookshop Pegasas C-3, Didioji 1, tel. (+370)
5 262 05 17, www.pegasas.eu. Adjoining the French Cultur-
al Centre, if they dont stock it they will happil y order. You can
also subscribe to French-language magazines here. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
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Humanitas B-3, Dominikon 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 11 53,
www.humanitas.lt. Glossy books about art, architecture,
interior design, shoes and Jamie Oliver. Also travel guides
and atlases. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Mint Vinetu B-3, v. Ignoto 16/10, tel. (+370) 618
203 47, www.mintvinetu.com. Hooray for the lovel y peo-
ple who opened this very welcome second-hand bookshop
with small attached caf in Old Town. The choice of books,
including ti tles in English, may be small but i ts the best
anybodys managed to do so far. Recommended. QOpen
11:00 - 20:00. JAW
Rdnink Knygynas B-5, Rdnink 20, tel. (+370) 5
261 02 66, www.rudninkuknygynas.lt. A rather cute little
shop on the very edge of Old Town, as well as a good selection
of a fine range of English language magazines on the subject
of design, photography etc. find 12inch records from home
and abroad. Also available are a few eco and handmade
souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. JA
Vaga G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 92,
www.vaga.lt. An old Vilnius favourite on two floors. Find a few
English books upstairs. Also at Konstitucijos 7a, Gedimino 9.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Computers
iDeal Solution B-4, Vokiei 5, tel. (+370) 5 240 54
26, www.idealsolution.lt. The best place in town for Apple
products, from laptops to iPods. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
The Notebook Shop I-1, S. ukausko 17, tel. (+370)
5 274 15 28, www.nshop.lt. A fine selection of PC laptops
plus spare parts, peripheries, service and software. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Department stores
Marks & Spencer A-1, Gedimino 20/1, tel. (+370) 5
266 00 88, www.marks-and-spencer.lt. The wonderful M&S
recently upped sticks and moved across the road to a new, bigger
address. Expect the same brands of clothing for all plus the usual
highly recommended food outlet. The new peanut butter in stock
is particularly good, plus theres all sorts of goodies including
bitter lemon, sweet pickle and other classic goods from the UK.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Food department
open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. PJAU
Fashion
Vilniaus Kailiai G-1, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 5
238 77 91, www.kailiai.lt. Lithuanias largest natural fur
and leather garment manufacturers produce a wide range of
clothing from classic fur coats to accessories. Their retail out-
let in Akropolis is the place to head for the fashion conscious
as well as those who plan on spending the winter here. Also
at Paupio 28. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
Food & Drink
AJ okoladas C-2, Pilies 8, tel. (+370) 655 955 55,
www.ajsokoladas.lt. Delicious chocolates made dail y in
Trakai and delivered fresh. Sold by the gramme, so you can be
as picky as you like. Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Gedimino
46. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTJA
Flower Market (Gli Turgus) G-4, J. Basanaviiaus
42. Originally, flowers were sold in a small market at
Reformat, which was a firewood market before that and
even further back served as a cemetery for the church
across the street. After the erection of the 1983 Monument
to the Soviet Partisans on the site, the market was moved
to its current location. Q Open 24hrs.
Gls ir Manufaktra B-5, Rdnink 11/11,
tel. (+370) 5 261 51 61, www.sododizainas.lt. A
good selection of flowers and plants for the home and/
or special occasions. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00
Flowers & Plants
About six years ago two people called Valdas and Rasa
started making cheese from cows and goats milk on
a small farm in the village of Darguiai some 50km
southwest of Vilnius. What started out as a classic
cottage industry caught the imagination of three other
couples and has since ballooned into a thriving busi-
ness producing 20 di fferent cheeses made to tradi-
tional Lithuanian and French recipes (Valdas originally
learnt his skills in France) from a total of 10 cows, 20
goats and 20 sheep. Collectively known as Srinink
Namai, whi ch roughl y transl ates as The Home of
Cheese, the organisation runs a small cheese shop
and caf in Darguiai and, along with a local baker and
chocolate-maker, sets up shop for a loyal fan base of
eaters (they avoid using the word consumers) in Vilnius
Mano Guru restaurant (pictured, see p.41) every Sunday
between 10:00 and 13:00. Dedicated to reviving Lithu-
anias small-scale farming community, these people
really know how to make good cheese. Newcomers to
the Sunday event are welcome for spontaneous tast-
ing sessions. Alternatively, cheese can be ordered in
advance. See their website at www.surininkunamai.lt
for more information.
Srinink Namai
shoPPing
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Austrian Gourmet & Bistro H-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5
269 72 81. A combined shop and small restaurant specialis-
ing in Austrian cuisine including chocolates, Mozartkugel,
sparkling wine and schnapps. Visitors to the restaurant can
enjoy a decent cup of coffee with an authentic slice of apple
strudel, or even indulge in a classic Viennese schnitzel with
potato salad. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. VNS
Biosala B-4, Vokiei 13, tel. (+370) 686 262 52. A
good selection of mostl y organic food in tins and packets
plus a few extras such as bio-degradable washing powder
etc. Find it right in front of the main door as you enter. Also
at Konsti tucijos 7a (Europa). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JA
Didioji Krautuv I-1, Verki 29-22, tel. (+370) 612
956 13, www.vilniausalus.lt. Over 20 different types of
live Lithuanian beer from the good people at the Vilniaus Alus
brewery plus a range of Lithuanian, German and Latvian beer
in bottles. As well as being an ordinary shop, theres also a
window for buying without having to get out of your car. Also
a range of snacks and smoked fish. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
Eastanbul H-3, Kalvarij 24a (Ibrahim), tel. (+370) 5
273 17 38, www.ibrahim.lt. This predominantl y Turkish
food shop is the onl y thing of its kind in the city. Find the
shelves bulging with an ever-increasing collection of things to
eat including hummus, chalva (hal va), several kinds of ajvar,
Turkish yoghurt, herbs and spices, the fabulous rarity thats
haloumi and much more besides. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A
Gourmet Delicafe C-3, Didioji 8, tel. (+370) 5 264
38 48. Hi tching a ride of the coattails of the latest trend,
find a small shop selling an admirable choice of food from
I tal y including pasta, meat, pesto, oli ve oil, coffee etc.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 -
20:00. JAW
Gyvo Alaus Krautuvl H-3, Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP),
tel. (+370) 652 164 54, www.gyvasalus.lt. A small but
highl y recommended selection of traditional Lithuanian live
beers for sale, among them the delicious Butaut Dvaro Alus,
available in both light (viesus) and dark (tamsus) varieties.
Find it on the floor at ground level close to the coffee shop.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
IKI G-3, J. Jasinskio 16, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 40, www.
iki.lt. Lithuanias first supermarket chain, and still sticking
to their core values of quali ty and freshness. Notable for
having top-notch in-house bakeries in the bigger stores.
Also at irmn 2, Sod 22, Archi tekt 43/31. QOpen
07:00 - 22:00. AL
Iki Express D-3, Uupio 7/1, tel. (+370) 5 260 84 88,
www.iki.lt. Tucked away in handy locations nationwide, with
edible treats and a few household goods on offer. Fresh baked
goods are a key attraction, as is the decent range of grocer-
ies. Also at Pylimo 21, Vokiei 13. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00,
Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. JA
Mamma Mia! C-4, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 653 800 85,
www.dovanukrepsys.lt. A highl y recommended new deli
in the heart of Old Town selling a superb range of food and
drink, mostl y from small producers in Ital y, Spain, Portugal,
Belgium and Germany. As well as a shopping space theres
also a small caf inside, where coffee and other drinks are
served alongside the aforementioned wonderful food. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JAVSW
Rta A-1, A. Jakto 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 68,
www.ruta.lt. Establi shed in iauliai in 1913 and still
based in the ci ty, support your local confectioner and buy
some of their treats as a gi ft or for the simpl e pl easure
of stuffing them in your face. Everything from chocolate
bars to caramel to truffl es. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis) and
Klaipdos 1. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Senamiesio Krautuv C-3, Literat 5, tel. (+370)
5 231 28 36. An interesting idea that takes the old-fash-
ioned deli idea of fresh products laid out in baskets sold
by friendl y, rosy-cheeked peopl e and transforms i t into a
total Li thuanian experience. All the food for sal e is local,
including frui t, vegetables, pickles, sausage, bread, cakes
and drinks. During the summer months the shop turns into
a bi t of a caf, wi th chairs and tables in the street. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
Skonio Studija A-3, J. Basanaviiaus 18, tel. (+370)
5 243 62 26. This glorious shop mostl y sells spices includ-
ing, rather annoyingl y, some but not all of the basic spices
required to make Indian food. The best thing about it however
are the li ttle corners hiding such treats as chilli noodles,
Dutch peanut butter and a range of Chinese and Japanese
sauces. Also a small range of rice cookers and a few quality
ki tchen kni ves. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
JA
turm vyturio uvys D-3, Uupio 9, tel. (+370)
641 535 67, www.sturmuzuvys.lt. A small fishmongers
selling a range of fish they catch and smoke themsel ves
from the Curonian Lagoon and Bal ti c Sea. We havent
tried i t yet, but we will. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
Sveiki Produktai H-3, A. Jakto 9, tel. (+370) 659
441 44, www.sveikiproduktai.lt. A fine sel ecti on of
mostl y food products, including a range of goods from
the UK-based Infini ty Foods. Among the sel ecti on are
Fair Trade organi c basmati ri ce, organi c peanut butter
and large tins of ghee. Also at Sal toniki 9 (Panorama),
Ozo 18 (Ozas), Ozo 25 (Akropolis), irmn 64 (Rimi Hy-
permarket), Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Ukmergs 264 (BIG).
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
82
shoPPing
shoPPing
Uupio Krautuv I-4, Uupio 23, tel. (+370) 686 793
50, www.uzupiokrautuve.lt. An early contender for the prize
title in the citys delicatessen sweepstakes, the lovely Uupio
Krautuv offers a fine selection of Mediterranean gourmet
food including olive oil, meat, cheese, a small selection of
wine, foie gras and other welcome treats. QOpen 11:00 -
20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
Gifts & Souvenirs
Aukso Avis C-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 261 04 21.
Textile works of Li thuanian artists, expressing Li thuanian
cul ture through a modern context. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
Auros Vart Meno Galerija C-5, Auros Vart 12,
tel. (+370) 699 099 51. One of the better gift and souve-
nir shops in an area dripping in mediocre ones, find a small
selection of locall y-produced folk arts and crafts including
some reall y lovel y paper cuttings, intricate lacework, paint-
ings and more besides. As if this wasnt enough, the bright
sparks who run the place also offer light refreshments and
ice-cream complete with summer outdoor seating. Magic.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JA
Gintraka C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 612 405 01, www.
ambershop.lt. Amber, trinkets, knick-knacks, souvenirs and a
delightful array of miscellaneous bits and bobs. Also at Auros
Vart 13, Auros Vart 4, Pilies 23, Pilies 30, Pilies 9, Ozo 25
(Akropolis). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA
Linen & Amber Studio C-4, Stikli 3, tel. (+370) 5
261 02 13, www.lgstudija.lt. One of the best places to
buy linen and amber. They have a great selection, and the
girls who work here are reall y helpful. Also at Didioji 10,
Didioji 11, Pilies 7, Pilies 10. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. JA
Lino Namai C-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 212 23 22, www.
siulas.lt. Linen, the fabric that really breathes, is available for
just about any part of the body or home. One of the citys top
shops. Also at Universiteto 10, Vilniaus 12. QOpen 10:00 -
19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
Mano Lietuviki Namai G-5, evenkos 16, tel.
(+370) 699 321 35, www.manolietuviskinamai.lt.
Started by two female interior designers, this fine shop
specialises in gathering the most interesting work from local
craftspeople working in ceramics, metal, textiles and general
interior design. As well as selling items for interiors, they also
provide a full interior design and decorating service. QOpen
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Sauluva C-3, Pilies 21/12, tel. (+370) 5 240 44 30,
www.sauluva.lt. A great choice for souvenir and holiday
shopping featuring a very respectable collection of amber jew-
ellery plus Lithuanian made handicrafts mostly made of wood
and glass. Also at Literat 3. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. J
House & Garden
Senukai Ukmergs 244, tel. (+370) 5 252 52 55, www.
senukai.lt. A huge shopping centre with building materials,
electrical equipment, miscellaneous household essentials, some
basic office furniture, garden centre and outdoor furniture. QOpen
08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A
Jewellery
Jrats Akmenliai A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5 262
02 79, www.juratesakmeneliai.lt. Why just buy jewellery
when you can make your own? The concept here is all about
importing a glittering array of beads and stuff from all over
the world and allowing you to string them together to make
whatever you please. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA
Yurga B-3, Trak 16, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 56, www.
yurga.lt. Hand-made jewellery inspired by themes from
nature and formed from amber, iron, gold and sil ver. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Lithuanian couture
Julia Janus C-3, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 619 640 20, www.
juliajanus.com. Surplus to the Lithuanian designer Julijas
haute couture is a range of off-the-peg clothing for women of
all shapes and sizes available at reasonable prices. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Julija Fashion House C-3, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 618
059 09, www.julija.lt. Applying a soft touch with stunning
effect, Julija is the sort of designer whod like to get to know you
before you get dressed. Not only can she design your personal
wardrobe, but your whole house too. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Lino Kopos H-3, Krokuvos 6, tel. (+370) 5 275 12 00,
www.linokopos.lt. The name means linen dunes, which
sounds like a laundry nightmare, but is actuall y a fair reflec-
tion of the range and beauty of creations made exclusivel y
from this versatile natural fibre. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Ramuns Piekautaits Mados Namai C-4, Didioji
20, tel. (+370) 5 231 22 70, www.ramunepiekautaite.
com. Put elegance and confidence in a blender, add a hint of
daring and/or fruity nonsense and press the puree button. Or
just pop along here to see the results, courtesy of another in-
ternationally successful local designer. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30,
Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JA
Zoraza C-3, Stikli 9, tel. (+370) 687 517 31, www.
zoraza.com. Bags, boots, shoes, furry things, shiny things,
florid frocks, and a glitzy upholstered toilet. The onl y thing
we can find in common among all the creations tucked away
in this bristling boutique, other than the fact that theyve
tumbled from the presumabl y chaotic cognitions of designer
Daiva Urbonaviit, is a certain wacky weirdness. Not for the
straight-laced. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. JA
Photography
Fototechnika G-5, Smolensko 10a, tel. (+370) 5 279
15 45, www.fototechnika.lt. Al though this is arguabl y the
best photography shop in Vilnius if not the country, dont go
getting too excited. Al though they stock an impressive range
(for local standards) of cameras, accessories, film stock,
lighting, paper and chemicals alongside such hard-to-find
things as cable releases, the selection remains rather small.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Vilbra Foto G-5, vitrigailos 11b, tel. (+370) 5 239 41
30, www.vilbrafoto.lt. The best choice of dSLRs and digital
compact cameras for the serious enthusiast in the city. Also,
tripods, flashguns, lenses etc. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Vilniaus Antikvaro Centras Fotopreki Skyrius
C-3, Dominikon 16, tel. (+370) 5 262 64 76. Tucked
away to the right of the main antiques shop is a man behind
a desk selling a beautiful selection of old film cameras and
other related equipment include Leicas and some Soviet
classics. Worth a peep at least. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Recorded music
IMuzika H-3, A. Jakto 24/3, tel. (+370) 615 940 01,
www.imuzika.lt. Lithuanias biggest label and one hip shop
presenting jazz, classic, folk, indie, and experimental music.
Orders accepted. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. JA
shoPPing
83
shoPPing
Ragain C-2, Pilies 6, tel. (+370) 688 196 55, info@
ragaine.org, www.ragaine.org. Barel y recognisable at the
bottom of a small flight of steps, this tiny shop specialises
in darkish-leaning underground music from the Bal tic States
as well as a few other more recognisable CDs from around
the world. Also for sale is a range of pre-Christian-style ethnic
jewellery, badges, black ceramics, t-shirts and more. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Rdnink Knygynas B-5, Rdnink 20, tel. (+370)
5 261 02 66, info@rudninkuknygynas.lt, http://shop.
rudninkuknygynas.lt. A rather cute little shop on the very
edge of Old Town, as well as a good selection of 12inch records
from home and abroad find a fine range of English language
magazines on the subject of design, photography etc. Also
available are a few eco and handmade souvenirs. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Thelonious C-3, Stikli 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 76,
www.thelonious.lt. A superb choice of second-hand CDs
and vinyl, mostl y jazz but also a few other gems you wont
find in a mainstream music shop. They also sell a range of
old-fashioned hi-fi equipment for those who dont know their
iPods from their elbows. Devoted to the cause, Thelonious
now organise the occasional jazz concert. See the website for
more information. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. J
Speciality shops
Bitinlis B-6, openo 12/26, tel. (+370) 5 233 05 70,
www.bitinelis.lt. A glorious li ttle shop selling a range of
locall y-produced honey plus everything you ever needed to
start producing the stuff yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Fri
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Boutique of Various Things (Visoki Daikt
Krautuvl) D-3, Uupio 20, tel. (+370) 5 210 52 17,
www.vdk.lt. A delightfull y Uupisesque experience, this
smart li ttle shop accessed via a door down an alleyway
specialises in miniature steam engines, musi cal boxes,
animated tin toys, other fun things and a whole range of
niche perfumes. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Daikt Viebutis G-5, evenkos 16a, tel. (+370)
686 497 43, www.daiktuviesbutis.lt. Located in an area
rapidl y making a name for i tsel f as the place to come for
expensi ve designer bi ts and pieces for the home, Daikt
Viebutis (Hotel of Things) is packed wi th goodies, from
clothing to impossible-looking cardboard tables to the latest
swanky offerings from the Lomo people. Q Open 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Sat (June - August).Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. A
De avu C-4, Saviiaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 15 56. A
small and rather natty boutique selling vintage clothing and
accessories as well as a small range of new fashion. Find eve-
rything from old wedding dresses and sunglasses to shoes to
ties to mirrors. Also at v. Ignoto 3/1. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00,
Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. JA
Komisas G-4, V. Kudirkos 1/7, tel. (+370) 684 831 54.
Second-hand clothes, furniture, televisions, hi-fi equipment
and more. An excellent little place to rummage around, they
also buy stuff as well as sell it. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Ona C-4, v. Kazimiero 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 63,
www.ona.lt. A mul titude of things for the home, paintings,
photographs, j ewellery, paper cuts and a host of other
similar articles, all made by small-scale artists, designers
and producers in Lithuania. Promoting ecologicall y-friendl y
products and worthy of much over-needed applause, if that
isnt enough you can buy everything online and three per cent
of the money you spend goes to a charity of your choice.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Sport & Recreation
Dviratis Tau G-4, vitrigailos 5, tel. (+370) 5 265 12
59, www.dviratistau.lt. A well established national chain of
shops selling quality bicycles of all types plus spares. Makers
include Focus, Kalkhoff, Specialized and Wheeler. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Golf City G-4, Savanori 1 (Helios City, 2nd floor),
tel. (+370) 615 161 61, www.golfcity.lt. There are two
golf clubs in the Vilnius area (see www.capitals.l t and www.
golfclub.l t for more) and this is the shop that serves them.
Everything from clubs to tees to those ridiculous patterned
trousers golfers love to wear. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
Laisvs Turas Laisvs 123, tel. (+370) 5 273 67 11,
www.laisvesturas.lt. For lovers of the outdoor li fe, find
everything from tents and camping gear in general to sports
clothing to canoes and even barbecue equipment. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
Prosport uolyno 7, tel. (+370) 682 437 13, www.
prosport.lt. Trainers, footballs, rugby balls, gol f clubs,
racquets, skis, swimming costumes and much much more.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Sportas ir Mada B-4, Pylimo 36, tel. (+370) 5 262 41
27, www.expedition.lt. A good selection of sports equip-
ment and a limited range of clothing. Excellent location right
on the edge of Old Town. Also at eimyniki 5a. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Visitors to Lithuania looking for a unique gift or souvenir
look no further! For just 99Lt its now possible to buy a
scent that, according to its Lithuanian creators, not only
impersonates the fragrances of the country but that
also recreates the history of its towns and villages, its
nature, traditions, heritage and the achievements of its
people. We kid you not. Called Lietuvos Kvapas (Scent of
Lithuania), the three-note perfume features a cavalcade
of odours including bergamot, ginger, lily of the valley,
amber and patchouli and was developed by the French
perfumier Galimard to be used as an air freshener rather
than a body perfume. The American political satirist
Stephen Colbert recently picked up the scent of the
story, describing Lietuvos Kvapas as smelling of a goat
slaughtered at a lesbian drum circle. The good news is
that it doesnt smell that bad at all, although were still
struggling to get the connection between Lithuania and
patchouli. Lietuvos Kvapas, which is now also available
in scented candle form, is available in several souvenir
shops in Old Town, the Tourist Information Centre,
Kaunas Airport and online from the dedicated website
at www.lietuvoskvapas.lt.
Lietuvos Kvapas
84
liFestyle direCtory
liFestyle direCtory
Franko C-3, Pilies 23, tel. (+370)
5 262 00 82/(+370) 670 225 54,
frankosalonas@gmail.com. Get a
sprucing-up in this recommended
salon right on Pilies. The bright-eyed,
English-speaking staff will make
your hair swell with style.QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00,
Closed Sun. JA
Barbers & Beauty
Beauty Institute B-3, Vokiei 28/17, tel. (+370) 5
262 91 87, www.sugihara.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
Figaro B-4, Vokiei 14, tel. (+370) 5 262 12 12,
www.figaro.lt. Chopping locks here there and everywhere.
Also at Gedimino 9, Gedimino 54, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa),
Jogailos 4. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun. JA
Gatineau B-2, Totori 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 64,
www.haircut.lt. A very pleasant hairdressing, manicure,
pedicure, make-up, massage, cosmetology salon with earl y
hours and smiling English- and Italian-speaking staff. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
Cable television
The companies listed below provide cable television serv-
ices to different parts of the city. Ask your landlord/lady
or a local friend about which one is available in your area.
They also all provide broadband internet.
C Gates F-5, S. Konarskio 49, tel. (+370) 5 210 75
75, www.cgates.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. J
Vinita S. Staneviiaus 21a, tel. (+370) 5 230 13 01,
www.vinita.lt. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 08:00 -
19:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Cleaning services
DD Projects Laisvs 77-323, tel. (+370) 683 461 41.
QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Open 24hrs.
Computer repair
Matrix G-5, Vytenio 10, tel. (+370) 5 213 45 74, www.
matrix.lt. Hard drive recovery et al. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Currency exchange
Citadele B-6, Geleinkelio 6, tel. (+370) 5 213 54
54, www.keitykla.lt. Capable of changing just about any
convertible currency as well as all Bal tic denominations and
Belarusian roubles. Q Open 24hrs.
Dress hire
Kino Studija I-1, Kareivi 6, tel. (+370) 656 688 28,
www.lfs.lt. These people can rent you anything they have in
stock from their wide range of sill y costumes. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dry cleaners & Launderettes
Jogl G-3, J. Jasinskio 16 (entrance from A. Gotauto),
tel. (+370) 5 264 91 64, www.jogle.lt. The full range of dry
cleaning and laundry services. Also at Mindaugo 11 (Maxima),
Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). QOpen 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Skalbiu Sau Saultekio 41, tel. (+370) 5 269 60 98,
www.skalbiusau.lt. A good old-fashioned launderette that
can also pick up and drop off your laundry if you cant be
bothered to do it yourself. Also at ekins 26, Savanori 176,
Liepkalnio 112. QOpen 10:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
LGBT
The websites at www.gayline.lt and www.gay.lt have
information about gay and lesbian organisations, events
and accommodation in Lithuania, plus community news,
chat rooms and personal ads. Lithuania remains stuck
in the Stone Age concerning its attitude towards gay and
lesbians, including in the capital. Be very, very careful.
liFestyle direCtory
85
liFestyle direCtory
International Womens Association K. Borutos
26-58, tel. (+370) 685 212 43, iwavilnius@gmail.
com, www.iwavilnius.com. Vilnius long established
International Womens Association welcomes women
from all cultural backgrounds living in the Lithuanian
capital. As well as organising such traditional social
events as coffee mornings, the IWA runs a playgroup and
is involved in a number of charitable activities.
Special interest groups
Genealogy
Information Bureau Tel. (+370) 699 599 88, www.
lithuaniavisits.com. Former journalist and six times Euro-
pean Ham Radio Operator champion, Vilius Vaseikis provides
a unique and fascinating service arranging tours of Lithuania
for people of Lithuanian descent. Doing everything from help-
ing to locate lost relatives to providing a translator, Vilius is
also the man to speak to if youre thinking of relocating to
Lithuania or are simpl y looking to rent an apartment.
Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (Istorijos
Archyvo Skyrius) G-3, K. Kalinausko 21, tel. (+370)
5 233 78 46, www.archyvai.lt. The entire Lithuanian civil
registry archi ves from 1940 to the present day, including
records of all births, deaths and marriages. In order to use this
service, location and approximate date are essential. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lithuanian Central State Archive (Lietuvos Centrinis
Valstybs Archyvas) O. Milaiaus 21, tel. (+370) 5 247
78 11, www.archyvai.lt/lt/lcva.html. When the Nazis invad-
ed Lithuania, one of their first tasks was to prepare an extensive
set of records of everyone living in the country, proving that every
cloud, no matter how dark and evil it is, does indeed have a silver
lining. Those looking to trace people living in Lithuania during the
period of 1941-1942 should consult this archive. QOpen 08:00
- 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lithuanian State Historical Archives (Lietuvos
Valstybs Istorijos Archyvas) F-6, Gerosios Vilties
10, tel. (+370) 5 213 74 82, www.archyvai.lt. The same
as the Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (see above), onl y
these archives are from the church registry up until 1940.
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Registry (Gyventoj Registro Tarnyba) G-4, Vivul-
skio 4a, tel. (+370) 5 271 77 88, www.gyvreg.lt. If you
have a name and need an address these people will help
you locate the person in question (the addition of a town
helps speed things up no end), al though non-Lithuanians be
warned that if the person in question is located they are first
asked if they actuall y want to be found before the address
is given. The sensible thing for non-nationals to do is to use
this service with a Lithuanian intermediary. QOpen 07:30 -
16:30, Fri 07:30 - 15:15. Closed Sat, Sun.
International schools
American International School of Vilnius I-5,
Subaiaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 31, www.aisv.lt.
QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
French International School J-2, ilo 13, tel. (+370)
5 276 91 32, www.efv.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Sauls Gojus umsko plentas 86, Grigaiiai, tel.
(+370) 5 248 59 88, www.saulesgojus.lt. A good few
kilometres east of the city, this recommended kindergarden
provides care and pre-school education to boys and girls from
three upwards in either Lithuanian/English or Lithuanian/Ger-
man. Reports from parents say that the standard of care is
exceptionall y high and that the country setting is delightful.
A bus ferries everyone from the city and back again. Theyve
also now opened an accompanying primary school. QOpen
07:30 - 19:00, Fri 07:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Vilnius International School C/D-3, Rus 3, tel.
(+370) 5 276 15 64, www.vischool.lt. QOpen 08:00 -
18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Vilnius Montessori pre-School Naujakuri 29, tel.
(+370) 5 270 08 80, www.vms.lt. Enrolment is throughout
the year. Places are limited. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Key cut
Raktin D-2, B. Radvilaits 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 65 65,
www.raktine.lt. Also at Pylimo 49. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Rakt Centras B-5, Pylimo 37, tel. (+370) 5 260 88
22. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
24hrs emergency. J
Language courses
Lingua Lituanica A-1, Ge-
dimino 26, tel. (+370) 5 231
32 39, www.lingualit.lt. Learn
Lithuanian with courses of vary-
ing length suitable for everyone from short-term visitors
to those who wish to make a life here. Two-week summer
and winter courses are also available and include plenty
of sightseeing and cultural immersion. Prices are com-
petitive compared to courses offered by the universities.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
86
liFestyle direCtory
liFestyle direCtory
Jaunimo Perspektyva A-2, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370)
687 494 22, www.ltmrs.lt/jp. Various levels of Lithuanian
language instruction on an individual or group basis. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun. J
Libraries
CAC Reading Room (MC Skaitykla) C-4, Vokiei
2 (Contemporary Art Centre), tel. (+370) 5 260 89 60,
www.cac.lt. Archives of information on contemporary art.
Dynamic library with an extensive collection of exhibitions
catalogues, theoretical books, periodicals, videotapes and
CDs. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Martynas Mavydas Lithuanian National Library
(Lietuvos Nacionalin Martyno Mavydo Bibli-
oteka) G-3, Gedimino 51 (Entrance from A. Tumno),
tel. (+370) 5 249 70 28, www.lnb.lt. QOpen 10:00 -
19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun (Jul y - August).
Photographic services
Kodak ProCentras G-4, Savanori 22, tel. (+370) 5 213
27 52, www.procentras.lt. The only truly pro shop in town
can provide index prints and rush all manner of film formats
through in an hour if you ask them nicely, although the usual
turnaround is more usually a day. Transparency films get done
in batches, and rather annoyingly can take up to a month to
process. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Shoe repair
Avalyns Taisykla B-4, Labdari 1/22, tel. (+370) 5
262 88 63. Heels stuck back on in 15 minutes. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Tattoos & Piercing
Drakono enklas B-3, Vilniaus 45, tel. (+370) 5 261
40 64, www.tattoo.lt. Prices start from around 50Lt, but
changing the name of a former lover into an anchor and chain
usuall y invol ves a bi t of work and costs more. Especiall y
i f youre trying to remove a Li thuanian surname. Piercing
is offered, but they wont touch your naughty bi ts. Unless
youre very sexy. They have previousl y refused to tattoo
tongues, but did once tattoo someones foot. They limped
home. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. J
Modus A-6, Kauno 6, tel. (+370) 5 233 42 38, www.
modus.lt. A li ttle out of the centre but worth i t because
they onl y charge 80Lt to change Asta to Pasta. They claim
they will tattoo anything anywhere for the right price, so take
your granny along and gi ve them a challenge. They have
previousl y slapped tatts on little toes and bald heads. They
also do piercing. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. J
Paradiz B-2, Totori 15, tel. (+370) 688 589 90, www.
paradize.lt. For 50 - 150Lt you can get a matchbox, or any
similarl y sized design, tattooed almost anywhere. (There are
body parts that they wont fill with ink, but they wouldnt tell us
which ones.) Somewhat worryingl y, they couldnt remember
the strangest tattoo theyve ever been asked to do. They will
also poke holes in you. Q By appointment onl y. J
Vets & Pets
Senamiesio Veterinarijos Klinika B-2/3, Liejyklos
6/21, tel. (+370) 699 612 65, www.veterinaras.lt.
House calls can be arranged. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. JA
Wellness
Amber Massage SPA C-5/6, Auros Vart 15, tel.
(+370) 5 261 49 23. The brainchild of a lady from Israel,
this strange and rather beguiling addition to the citys grow-
ing wellness community provides a range of massages using
amber, from little rods of it to bags of crushed amber to an
entire mini beach of the stuff that you lie on whilst a young
lady walks on top of you. Theres a sauna too, and the whole
thing has been designed to re-energise owning to ambers
peculiar proclivity to generate small amounts of electricity.
Note that the opening hours listed here are a guideline. Ap-
pointments can be made outside of office hours. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00. JA
Ayurvedic SPA Centre Shanti J-4, Subaiaus 17,
tel. (+370) 606 755 57, www.ajurveda.lt. Enj oy a
steam sauna, a copper rose bath, massage for two, tea
ceremony or ayurvedic relaxing massage and peeling. They
speak English and also offer gift vouchers. QOpen 10:00
- 21:00. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun (June - August).
JA
Azia Spa B-4, v. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 244 46 46,
info@aziaspa.lt, www.aziaspa.lt. A range of Eastern-style
massages with a Buddhist philosophy, plus spa treatments,
body scrubs, aromatherapy and more. Thai masseurs on
hand fo the ultimate authentic experience. Special massages
for couples also available. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 -
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. JA
East Island Exotic C-4, Didioji 40/2, tel. (+370) 5 212
55 99, www.eastisland.lt. Spice up your life with a range of
massages including several delivered with the aid of stones,
honey and even chocolate. They also offer their so-called ex-
citing erotic all body massage alongside a less risqu range
of facials, body masks and scrubs. Also at v. Kazimiero 2.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. J
liFestyle direCtory
87
liFestyle direCtory
Exotic Spa I-1, Kareivi 14 (Impuls Plius), tel. (+370)
605 556 66, www.exoticspa.lt. A choice of fabulous and
titillating massages from the conventional to the naughty. Also
a wide range of spa bath treatments, seaweed body wraps
and plenty, plenty more. Also at v. Mikalojaus 5. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00
(June - August). A
Exotic Spa Morocco B-4, v. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370)
5 212 12 15/(+370) 605 556 66, spa@exoticspa.lt,
www.morocco.exoticspa.lt. A wide range of massages and
spa procedures, spa treatment packages for couples and a
few saucy options for gentlemen, all inside an atmospheric Old
Town cellar. See the website for a full list of services.
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. J
Idzumi Spa I-2, Sporto 12, tel. (+370) 5 247 24 70,
www.idzumi.lt. An Asian atmosphere permeates and
soothes, as do all the treatments and services including spa,
sauna, massage, cosmetics, solarium and more. Its a fresh
approach which will leave you feeling very alive and refreshed.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Open
09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (June - August) A
Joga Visiems G-3, Lukiki 3, tel. (+370) 689 098 16,
www.asana.lt. Weekly 90-minute Iyengar Yoga classes in Eng-
lish by local man Antanas who trained in Amsterdam. Classes
start 19:00 every Sunday. Q No classes June - August.
Spa Centre East Island G-2, Konstitucijos 26 (Forum
Palace 1st floor), tel. (+370) 5 272 22 27, www.east-
island.lt. One of the citys largest spas, services here include
aromatic bathtubs, a wide range of Thai massages, facials
etc. and a wealth of cosmetic procedures to make you feel re-
born. The centre comes complete with an Oriental ambience
including representations of Buddha on the wall and a tranquil
Eastern soundtrack. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A
News agencies
BNS A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. (+370) 5 205 85 01, www.
bns.lt. J
Online news
Lithuania Tribune, tel. (+370) 614 312 15, editor@
lithuaniatribune.com, www.lithuaniatribune.com. A rec-
ommended site featuring news about Lithuania on subjects
including poli tics, economics and international relations.
Information is gathered from other news sources, academia
and the political world and translated into English.
Print media
Baltic Times B-5, Raugyklos 15-305, tel. (+370) 5
212 44 90, www.baltictimes.com. A weekl y newspaper
in English with news about all three Bal tic states. Published
every Friday and available for sale in some bookshops as well
as for free in a number of hotels. J
In Your Pocket D-2, Bernardin 9-4, tel. (+370) 5 212
29 76, www.inyourpocket.com. Europes leading provider
of locall y produced urban information in print, online, video,
PDF and now on the iPhone. Practical information from Dublin
to Moscow, Tallinn to Tirana. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. J
Radio
BBC World Ser vice 95.5FM, www.bbc.co.uk/
worldservice.
Start FM 94.2FM. A campus radio station run by students
from Vilnius University, Start FM is the only non-commercial ra-
dio station currently operating in the capital. The music policy is
to concentrate and highlight a wealth of home-grown music.
88
health
health
A ir B Mackevii Odontologijos
Klinika B-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus
9-9, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 12, mack-
eviciai@mail.lt, www.dentaltravel.lt.
Laser-whitening 1,000Lt, implant 2,000
- 3,000Lt/tooth, prosthetic-CAM-DAM
CEREC 3 system 800 -1,500Lt, treatment with magnifica-
tion (microscope and lens). Also at Nemenins 54a (Baltic-
American Clinic), K. Dineikos 1, Druskininkai (SPA Vilnius).
Q Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Dentists
Dentists in Vilnius are of a high quality and relatively
inexpensive by Western standards. The following dentists
all have English-speaking staff.
Dr. Br. Sidaraviius A-3, Klaipdos 2/14-3, tel.
(+370) 5 262 97 60. Check-up 30 - 120Lt, cl eaning
250Lt, whi tening 117Lt/tooth, filling 160 - 600Lt, implant
from 6,000Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. J
Gidenta H-3, A.Vienuolio 14-3, tel. (+370) 5 261 71
43, www.gidenta.lt. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 5 - 6Lt /
tooth, laser - whitening 780Lt, filling 80 - 200Lt, extraction
50 - 400Lt, implant 1,800 - 2,200Lt/tooth. QOpen 09:00 -
19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Odontika I-4, Krivi 5, tel. (+370) 5 215 31 35, www.
odontika.com. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 150Lt, laser-whit-
ening 25Lt/tooth, filling 100 - 160Lt, extraction 80 - 400Lt,
implant 1,650Lt/tooth. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sat, Sun by
appointment onl y. A
V. Pro Odontologijos Klinika C-3, Universiteto 2/18,
tel. (+370) 5 231 29 52, www.odontologijosklinika.lt.
Check-up 40 - 50Lt, cleaning 6Lt/tooth, laser - whitening,
1,000Lt, filling 150 - 300Lt, extraction 150 - 400Lt, implant
4,000 - 5,000Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. JA
HIV & AIDS
Communi cabl e Di seases & AIDS Centr e
(Ukreiamj Lig ir AIDS Centras) Nugaltoj
14d, tel. (+370) 5 230 01 25, fax (+370) 5 276 79 67,
www.ulac.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Hospitals
Vilnius University Hospital (Respublikin Vilniaus
Universitetin Ligonin) iltnami 29, tel. (+370) 5
216 90 69, www.rvul.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 19:00. 24hrs.
Medical services
Baltic-American Clinic Nemenins 54a, tel. (+370) 5
234 20 20/(+370) 698 526 55, www.bak.lt. Highl y rec-
ommended modern professional health care and diagnostics,
now bigger and better than ever. Q Open 24hrs. A
Fertility Centre C-2, Maironio 25-22, tel. (+370) 5 261
42 26, www.vaisingumocentras.lt. Highl y recommended
modern fertility treatments. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. JA
Fertility Clinic Laisvs 64a, tel. (+370) 656 444
40, www.vaisingumas.lt. Full-ser vi ce gynaecol ogist.
Fertili ty treatments, obstetrics and modern therapies for
menopause. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Fri 08:30 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
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89
health
Kardiolita Laisvs 64a, tel. (+370) 5 239 05 00, www.
kardiolita.lt. Privatel y-run general hospital. Broad range of
medical services. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Medical Diagnostic and Treatment Centre (Medi-
cinos Diagnostikos ir Gydymo Centras) J-1, V.
Grybo 32a, tel. (+370) 5 270 91 20, www.medcentras.
lt. Excellent staff and facilities for everything from regular
check-ups to major surgery, with all the lab tests, scans and
caring guidance along the way. English speaking doctors.
24-hour urgent surgery services. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Medicine General Private Clinics B-2, Gedimino
1a-19, tel. (+370) 684 331 00 (appointments). Excellent
English-speaking doctor for general and famil y heal th located
in the city centre opposite the Cathedral. High quality care.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Northway Medical Center I-1, S. ukausko 19, tel. (+370)
5 264 44 66, www.nmc.lt. General practitioners and specialists
in cardiology, gynaecology, otorhinolaryngology and more. QOpen
07:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Novana G/H-4, Basanaviiaus 18, tel. (+370) 686 122
43, www.novana.lt. Laser-related aesthetic procedures
including permanent hair removal with IPL, skin pigmentation
treatment, lymph draining massage and much more. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
eimos Medicinos Centras (Family Medical
Centre) A-3, Pylimo 9, tel. (+370) 5 260 86 84, www.
seimosgydytojas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Skin & Laser Surgery Center G-4, M. K. iurlionio
19/36-30, tel. (+370) 5 264 73 04, www.lazerinechiru-
rgija.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Sugihara Beauty Therapy & Surgery Clinic E-1, .
Sugiharos 3, tel. (+370) 5 270 57 10, www.sugihara.lt.
A highl y trained team of consul ting doctors will come to the
rescue if your beauty is slipping away. You can also indulge
yourself with a massage or various other forms of pampering.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 18:00 (June - August). A
Opticians
Optometrijos Centras B-4, Vokiei 26, tel. (+370) 5
262 75 91, www.optometrija.lt. Also at Gedimino 9. QO-
pen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Rega C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 5 262 00 73, www.
rega.lt. Also at Gedimino 49a/2. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Vision Express B-4, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), tel.
(+370) 5 262 26 69, www.visionexpress.lt. Also at A.
Vienuolio 14, Gedimino 3a. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA
Pharmacies
Aulavis C-2, Tilto 6, tel. (+370) 5 262 85 88. Homeopath-
ic. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JA
Eurovaistin Ukmergs 282 (Maxima), tel. (+370) 5
230 37 59. Q Open 24hrs. A
Gedimino Vaistin H-3, Gedimino 27, tel. (+370) 5
261 01 35. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. JA
Operos Vaistin A-1, A. Vienuolio 6-21, tel. (+370)
5 212 61 16. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Universiteto Vaistin C-3, Universiteto 2, tel. (+370)
5 212 12 19. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Vokiei Vaistin C-4, Didioji 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 42
32. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JA
90
sPort & leisure
The general consensus among historians is that chess
(achmatai) arrived in Lithuania in the 17th century,
brought here by the ruling classes from Western Europe.
Others claim its history goes back a good deal further.
What is undeniable however is the fact that the first ever
documented game played in the country took place in
1887, the year the first chess club was founded in Lithu-
ania. The first international tournament took place in
Vilnius in 1912, attracting many skilful exponents from
abroad, including the great Polish master Akiba Rubin-
stein (1882-1961), who won and took the title back to
his native homeland. Lithuanias most notable exponent
was a man by the name of Vladas Miknas (1910-1992),
famous for beating the world champion at the time in an
albeit informal game way back in 1937. Chess remains a
favourite sport (call it a game in front of a serious player
at your own peril) among the Lithuanians, and as well as
one or two specialist clubs in Vilnius, its possible to find
the game being played every evening in a few bars.
Chess
Active leisure
Force One Tel. (+370) 5 233 98 07, info@forceone.lt,
www.forceone.lt. Extreme, outdoorsy and team-building
type activities. Mostl y caters to corporate clients.
Labas Nuotyki Parkas (Labas Adventure Park) Liz-
deikos, tel. (+370) 602 323 66, www.labasnuotykiupar-
kas.lt. Not far from the city centre on the eastern shore of the
Neris river, Labas Nuotyki Parkas offers over 1.5km of tracks
up in the trees aimed at everyone from children to beginners to
professional Tarzans. Each track comes with zip-lines for aerial
flights, plus theres a 16m swing for the completely insane and
an aerial runway across the river. The place is hidden from the
road and there are no signposts at all. A map on their website
partially solves the mystery. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Bowling & Billiards
Boulingo Klubas G-3, J. Jasinskio 16, tel. (+370) 5 249
66 00, www.boulingoklubas.lt. Complete with Lithuanian
dishes and beer, the six lanes squeezed next to each other
allow for much drunken bowling. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Wed,
Thu 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. PAW
Cosmic Bowling G-4, Vytenio 6/23, tel. (+370) 5 233
99 09, www.bowling.lt. Wonky lanes and pins on strings.
Better lanes and equipment upstairs, where prices are also
higher. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PW
Free Ball H-2, Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), tel. (+370) 656
205 80. A pleasant enough space featuring a bar and several
pool tables in excellent condition. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PA
Fitness & Gyms
Forum Sports Club G-2, Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370)
5 210 31 49, www.forumfitness.lt. Gym, aerobics, 25m
pool, saunas, modern equipment and the option of a personal
trainer to shout at you while you use it. Q Open 06:30 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00 (Aug). Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 22:00 (from September). AFDC
Impuls Plus I-1, Kareivi 14, tel. (+370) 615 400
72, www.impuls.lt. Strength and cardiovascular workout
gear, aerobics, sauna, spa, pool and waterslide. Also at L.
Asanaviits 15, Savanori 28, Fabijoniki 97a. QOpen
06:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 21:00. Open 06:30 - 21:30,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00 (June - August). ADC
On wheels
Fun2Go Plytins 27, tel. (+370) 699 567 04, www.
kartodromas.lt. This go-cart track offers speed, mayhem,
danger, so its just like the rest of Lithuanias road network,
but with smaller cars and more fun. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
Racquet sports
Teniso Pasaulis E-1, uolyno 7, tel. (+370) 5 246 08
36, www.sebarena.lt. 30 - 95Lt/hour depending on when
you want to play. A
Saunas
The Narutis Hotel - Preferred Boutique C-3, Pilies
24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax (+370) 5 262 28 82,
info@narutis.com, www.narutis.com. Theres a sauna,
steam room and a modest pool with spa bath. And a nice
little fountain. A hidden treat on the main tourist promenade
of Old Town. JA
Sky stuff
Oreivysts Centras (Ballooning Centre) G-3, Ups
5, tel. (+370) 652 005 10, www.ballooning.lt. Hot-air
balloons and other off-the-ground antics.
Social sports
Hash House Harriers Tel. (+370) 685 212 43,
www.vilniushhh.blogspot.com. Run or walk around for
a bi t, then drink and chat. The Vilnius chapter of this world
phenomenon meet once a month. See their blog for more
information.
Table tennis
Sostins Stalo Teniso Sporto Klubas J-3, Oland
6/1, tel. (+370) 654 020 59, www.vilniaus-stalo-teni-
sas.lt. A large, modern table tennis club complete with lots
of tables, good shower facilities and the option of coaching
or just playing for pleasure. Find it above the Maxima super-
market on the left going up the hill. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Water sports
Diugonis (Scuba-diving) J. Matulaiio 7-38, tel.
(+370) 5 240 70 15, www.scubadiving.lt. A PADI
di ve centre, wi th Engli sh-speaking staff, who can ar-
range di ves in the lakes around Trakai. Scuba gear avail-
able for hire. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Lietuvos Vaik ir Jaunimo Centras G-2, Konstitucijos
25, tel. (+370) 5 273 33 33, www.lvjc.lt. The pool is only
25m long but its clean as a whistle and, despite being in a
childrens and youth centre, its not just for kiddies.
Vichy Aqua Park H-1, Ozo 14c, tel. 118, www.
vandensparkas.lt. A big explosion of aquatic fun wi th a
pleasantl y up-lifting Pol ynesian theme throughout. There
are dizzying water slides, a pretend beach with real waves,
oodles of pools of various types (one wi th a bar) and all
sorts of saunas and spa baths. Out in the northern suburbs,
the taxi fares still worth it, or take bus N53 if youre feel-
ing cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
TAEKDC
sPort & leisure
-
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-
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operating by principIe of penduIum
-
7hrow down the chaIIenge in the "DoIphin Sea"
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More information at:
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www.vandensparkas.It
92
Business direCtory
Banks
SEB Bankas C-4, Vokiei 9, tel. 1528.
Accountants
Business connections
American Chamber of Commerce H-3, Konstituci-
jos 7, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 81.
Association of Lithuanian Chambers of Com-
merce, Industry & Crafts G-3, Vaingtono 1/63a,
tel. (+370) 5 261 21 02.
British Chamber of Commerce C-3/4, Didioji 5,
tel. (+370) 5 269 00 62.
European Business Network P.O. Box 1125, tel.
(+370) 671 811 57.
Invest Lithuania (Investuok Lietuvoje) C-3, Jogai-
los 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 74 38.
Vilnius Chamber of Commerce, Industry and
Crafts G/H-5, Algirdo 31, tel. (+370) 5 213 55 50.
Consumer rights
European Consumer Centre (Europos Vartotoj
Centras) B-2, Odmini 12, tel. (+370) 5 265 03 68.
Coworking
Hub Vilnius B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 615 331
56.
European Commission
European Commission A- 4, Naugarduko 10, tel.
(+370) 5 231 31 91.
European Commission Information Centre A-4,
Naugarduko 10, tel. (+370) 5 231 31 83.
Foreign representations
Armenia F-3, Lenktoji 17, tel. (+370) 5 207 50 40.
Australia (Consulate) B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370)
5 212 33 69.
Austria C-3, Gaono 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 05 80.
Azerbaijan G-3, Gedimino 35, tel. (+370) 5 219 56 01.
Belarus Muitins 41, tel. (+370) 5 213 22 55.
Belgium A-3, K. Kalinausko 2b, tel. (+370) 5 266 08 20.
Canada A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 249 09 50.
China H-5, Algirdo 36, tel. (+370) 5 216 28 62.
il (Consulate) A-1, A. Jakto 11, tel. (+370) 5 260
89 19.
Czech Republic F-3, Biruts 16, tel. (+370) 5 266 10
54.
Denmark J-3, T. Kosciukos 36, tel. (+370) 5 264 87 60.
Estonia F-3, A. Mickeviiaus 4a, tel. (+370) 5 278 02
00.
Finland G-4, K. Kalinausko 24 (2nd floor), tel. (+370)
5 266 80 10.
France C-3, varco 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96 00.
Georgia F-3, D. Pokos 13, tel. (+370) 5 273 69 59.
Financial Services Cent-
er B-1, . Liauksmino 3, tel.
(+370) 5 262 05 34, fax
(+370) 5 262 05 35, info@fscenter.lt, www.fscenter.
lt. Accounting services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. J
Germany G-4, Z. Sierakausko 24, tel. (+370) 5 210
64 00.
Greece C-4, Didioji 33/2, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 26.
Hungary A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 38.
Iceland (Consulate) F-5, K. Konarskio 28a, tel. (+370)
5 215 05 75.
Ireland C-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 60.
Italy F/G-4, Vytauto 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 06 20.
Japan F-4, M. K. iurlionio 82b, tel. (+370) 5 231 04
62.
Kazakhstan F-3, Biruts 20a/35, tel. (+370) 5 212
21 23.
Kyrgyzstan (Consulate) P. Lukio 16-247, tel. (+370)
687 471 72.
Latvia F-4, M. K. iurlionio 76, tel. (+370) 5 213 12 60.
Malta (Consulate) C-4/5, Subaiaus 2, tel. (+370)
5 251 44 91.
Moldova F-2, Miglos 61a, tel. (+370) 5 260 79 14.
Netherlands A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 72.
Norway A-3, K. Kalinausko 24 (3rd floor), tel. (+370)
5 261 00 00.
Philippines (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 4 (B corps), tel.
(+370) 5 212 00 33.
Poland J-2, Smlio 22a, tel. (+370) 5 270 90 01.
Romania G-4, A. Vivulskio 19, tel. (+370) 5 231 05 57.
Russia F-3, Latvi 53/54, tel. (+370) 5 272 17 63.
Spain G-4, Algirdo 4, tel. (+370) 5 231 39 61.
Sweden C-4, Didioji 16, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 10.
Thailand (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. (+370)
5 268 18 92.
Turkey C-4, Didioji 37, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 70.
UK J-3, Antakalnio 2, tel. (+370) 5 246 29 00.
Ukraine A-3, Teatro 4, tel. (+370) 5 233 07 82.
USA G-4, Akmen 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 55 00.
Vatican H-4, T. Kosciukos 28, tel. (+370) 5 212 36 96.
Interpreters
balTICK Language Services D-2, Bernardin 9-4,
tel. (+370) 5 212 29 24.
Lawyers
Sabaliauskas ir Partneriai B-1, . Liauksmino 3, tel.
(+370) 5 212 42 44.
Lithuanian officials
Department of Customs (Muitins Departamen-
tas) H-3, A. Jakto 1/25, tel. (+370) 5 261 30 27.
Government (LR Vyriausyb) B-1, Gedimino 11, tel.
(+370) 706 638 46.
Ministry of Foreign Affairs (LR Usienio Reikal
Ministerija) G-3, J. Tumo-Vaiganto 2, tel. (+370) 5
236 24 44.
Municipality (Savivaldyb) B-1, Konstitucijos 3, tel.
(+370) 5 211 20 00.
Parliament (LR Seimas) G-3, Gedimino 53, tel.
(+370) 5 239 60 60.
Presidents Office (LR Prezidento Rmai) C-2, S.
Daukanto 3, tel. (+370) 706 641 54.
Notaries
Vilniaus m. 2-asis Notar Biuras C-2, Tilto 15/7,
tel. (+370) 5 231 46 83.
Office rental
Start Office A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 69.
Business direCtory
94
street register
All of the venues in this
guidebook marked with
an Old Town symbol (J)
are featured as such
because even if theyre
not in Old Town per se,
they are at least on the
map opposite which we
call Old Town. Confused?
Dont be.
Aguon A-4/6
A. Jakto A-1
Alkns D-6
Arkli C-4/5
Arsenalo C/D-1
A. Smetonos A-1/2
A. Strazdelio D-5
A. Stulginskio A-2/1
Amenos B-4
Augustijon C-4
Auktaii D-4
Auros Vart C-5/6
A. Volano D-3
Bazilijon C/D-5
Beatris A1
Benediktini B-3
Bernardin C-2/D-3
Bokto C-3/D-5
B. Radvilaits C/D-2
Didioji C-3/4
Dominikon B/C-3
Dysnos B-4
Etmon C-4
Gaono C-3
Gedimino A-1/D-2
Geleinkelio C-6
Gli B-5
Islandijos A-2
Iganytojo C/D-3
J. Basanaviiaus A-3/4
J. Jablonskio A-5/6
J. Lelevelio A/B-1
Jogailos A-1/2
Karmelit C-4/5
Katon A1
Kauno A/B-6
Kdaini A/B-4
K. Griniaus A-2
K. Kalinausko A-3
Klaipdos A/B-3
Kruop B-5
K. Sirvydo B-1
K. kirpos D-1/2
Kdr D-4
K. Vanaglio D-5
Labdari B-2
Lap C-5/6
Latako C/D-3
Liej yklos B-2/3
Liepkalnio D-6
Ligonins B-4/5
Literat C/D-3
Lydos B-4
L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus
B/C-2
M. Antokolskio C-3/4
Maironio D-2/4
Maln D-3
M. Daukos D-5
Msini B-5/C-4
Mindaugo A-4/6
Naruio D-6
Naugarduko A-4/5
Odmini B-2
Palangos A-3
Pamnkalnio A-2
Pasao C-5
Paupio D-3
Pelesos C/D-6
Pilies C-2/3
Plaioji B-5
Prancikon B-3/4
Punsko A-6
Pylimo A-2/C-6
Radvil B-1
Raugyklos A-6/B-5
Roi A-3/2
Rus C/D-3
Rdnink B-5/C-4
Saviiaus C-4
Sein B/C-6
Sod B-5/6
S. Skapo C-2
Stikli C-3/4
Stoties B-6
Subaiaus C/D-5
al tini A/B-5
ermukni A1
iauli B-4
il tadario D-2
varco C-3
ventaragio C-2
v. Dvasios D-5
v. Ignoto B-3
v. Jono C-3
v. Kazimiero C/D-4
v. Mikalojaus B-4
v. Mykolo C/D-3
v. Stepono A-6/B-5
Teatro A-3
Til to B-1/C-2
Totori B-2/3
Trak A-4/B-3
Turgeli D-6
T. Vrublevskio C-1
Universiteto C-2/3
Uupio D-3
Vienuolio A1
Vilniaus B-1/3
Vingri A/B-4
Vis ventj B/C-5
Vokiei B-3/C-4
V. openo B-6
emaitijos B-4
iuproni D-5
. Liauksmino B-1/C-2
yd B-4/C-3
ygimant B/C-1
street register
98
index
Skalbiu Sau 84
Skal vija 13
Skin & Laser Surgery
Center 89
Skonio Studija 81
MC 45
nekutis 49
Sofa de Pancho 40
Soho 52
Sonnets 35
Sostins Turgus 76
Souvenir Market 76
Spa Centre East Island 87
Spain 92
Sportas ir Mada 83
Sriubos Namai 42
St. Anne's Church 60
Start FM 87
Stasys Apartments 23
St. Casimir's Church 60
St. Catherine's Church 13
Steak House Hazienda 42
Stikli Dvaras 19
St. Nicholas' Church 60
Sts. Johns' Church 60
St. Theresa's Church 61
Studio 9 38
turm vyturio uvys 81
Submarine 41
Sue's Indian Raja 31
Sulius 38
Sura 39
Sveiki Produktai 81
vieia Kava 33
TaDas 14
Tamsta 52
Tappo D'oro 49
Takas 73
Tautodailininko Dirbtuv 13
Television Tower 63
Terra Eldorado 30
Terra Recognita 14
Thailand 92
The Beautiful Land Of
Nevermind 71
Thelonious 83
The Narutis Hotel - Preferred
Boutique 16, 90
The Notebook Shop 80
Thierry Kepykla 26
Tiflisi-Dukani 30
Titanikas 14
TNT 73
Tores 35
Town Hall 63
Train Station 69
Transil vanija 45
Tres Mexicanos 40
Tymo Turgus 76
kio Banko Teatro Arena 13
Universiteto Vaistin 89
Uzbekistanas 43
Uupio Galerija 13
Uupio Kal vysts Galerija -
Muziejus 13
Uupio Krautuv 82
Uupio Meno Inkubatorius 14
Uupis Angel 65
Vaga 80
Vapiano 37
Vartai 14
Vasaros Terasa 44
Vatican 92
VCUP 74
Vegaf 43
VeloCity Tours & Rent 71
Veloklinika.l t 71
Veranda 36
Vichy Aqua Park 90
Vienuol yno Kiemas 44
Vieta 43
Vilbra Foto 82
Vilniaus Fotografijos Galerija 14
Vilnius Antiques Centre 77
Vilnius Apartments 23
Vilnius City Tour 64
Vilnius Congress Hall 13
Vilnius International Airport 70
Vilnius International School 85
Vilnius Montessori
pre-School 85
Vilnius Tourist Information 7
Vilnius University 64
Vilnius University Hospital 88
Vilnius Youth Tourist
Centre 23
ViniusTransfer.com 69
Visit Lithuania 71
Wok & Roll 27
Yurga 82
emaiiai 26
emait 65
Znad Wilii 14
Zoe's Bar & Grill 36
uvin 34
M. K. iurlionis' House 62
Mersera 68
Mojitos 48
Molio Laum 13
Money Museum 57
Mul tikino 13
Municipality 92
Narutis Restaurant 28
National Art Gallery 57
National Museum 57
National Youth Theatre 15
Neringa 18, 34
Nes Casino 53
New York 52
Northway Medical Center 89
Notre Vie 49
Novana 89
Novotel Vilnius Centre 18
Odontika 88
OKT/Vilnius City Theatre 15
Old Town Hostel 23
Old Town Strip Club 53
Omnitel 73
Ona 83
Operos Vaistin 89
Opium 47
Optometrijos Centras 89
Oreivysts Centras 64, 90
Orthodox Church of St.
Paraskeva 59
Orthodox Church of the Hol y
Spirit 60
Osteria da Luca 36
Ozas 74
Pabo Latino 47
Paneriai Memorial Museum 67
Panorama 74
Pantera 48
Paparazzi 48
Paradise 53
Paradiz 86
Park Inn Vilnius North 20
Park Villa 18
Pasaka 13
Paupio Namai 22
Piano.l t 13
Piano Man 45
Pizza Hut Express 41
Pogo Hostel 23
Pomodoro 41
Poni Laim 31
Pramog Arena 13
Prie Katedros 34
Prospekto Galerija 14
Prosport 83
Radisson Blu Astorija 16
Ragain 83
Raktin 85
Rakt Centras 85
Ramada Hotel & Suites
Vilnius 16
Rasos Cemetery 66
Raw42 43
Raw Raw 43
Reformed Evangelical
Church 60
Rega 89
Registry 85
Reinis The Cook 39
Relais & Chateaux Stikliai
Hotel 16
Rentida Apartments 23
Rib Room 35
Rimas 69
Rimi Hypermarket 74
Rinno 20
Riverside 35
Roast & Beer Pub 35
Romania 92
Rdnink Knygynas 80, 83
Rdnink Vartai 21
Russia 92
Rta 81
Ryanair 71
Salentino Caf 33
Salento DiscoPub 47
arnas 18
Sauls Gojus 85
Sauls Namai 21
Sauluva 82
Savas Kampas 49
Senamiesio Gidas 71
Senamiesio Krautuv 81
Senasis Kuparas 77
Senatoriai 20
Senoji Pasaga 26
Sensus Grill & Wine 35
Sensus Terasa 44
Senukai 82
Shakespeare Boutique
Hotel 18
Shanti 38
Shooters 48
Siemens Arena 13
Sixt 69
Hals Market 76
Hash House Harriers 90
Hill of Three Crosses 62
Holiday Inn 18
Hol y Miko's 32
Hol y Trinity Church & Basilian
Gate 59
Humanitas 80
iDeal Solution 80
Idzumi Spa 87
IKI 81
IKI Commercial Centre 74
Iki Express 81
Impuls Plus 90
IMuzika 82
Indian Maharaja 31
Information Bureau 85
Invest Lithuania 92
In Your Pocket 87
Ireland 92
Italian Cul tural Institute 15
Jal ta 32
Japan 92
Jaunimo Perspektyva 86
Jewelry Art Studio 14
Jewish Community of
Lithuania 67
Joga Visiems 87
Jogl 84
Jonas Bugailikis Art Studio 13
Julia Janus 82
Julija Fashion House 82
Kaln Parkas 66
Kal varij Market 76
Kardiolita 89
Katpdl 25
Kazakhstan 92
Keisti enklai 25
Kelioni Panorama 71
Kempinski Hotel Cathedral
Square 16
Kenesa 62
KFC 40
Kibin Inn 39
Kino Studija 84
Kitchen 33
Kodak ProCentras 86
Koldnin 25
Komisas 83
Krantas Travel 71
La Bohme 49
Labuki 37
La Crepe 40
Laisvs Turas 83
La Pergola 33
La Provence 28
Lauro Lapas 34
Lazdyn Pelda 64
Leiiai 45
Ll Puppet Theatre 14
Linen & Amber Studio 82
Lingua Lituanica 85
Lino Kopos 82
Lino Namai 82
Literat Gatv 62
Lithuanian Central Registry
Archive 85
Lithuanian Central State
Archive 85
Lithuanian Holidays 64
Lithuanian Karaite & Tatar
Cemetery 66
Lithuanian Music & Theatre
Academy 13
Lithuanian National Drama
Theatre 14
Lithuanian National Opera &
Ballet Theatre 14
Lithuanian National
Philharmonic 13
Lithuanian Tours 71
Lithuania Tribune 87
Litinterp Guest House 22
Lux Express 69
Mabre Residence 18
Mamma Mia 81
Mano Guru 41
Mano Lietuviki Namai 82
Map of the Ghetto 67
Marceliuks Kltis 26
Marks & Spencer 80
Markus ir Ko 42
Matrix 84
McDonald's 40
Meat Lovers Pub 42
Medininkai 34
Meno Fortas 14
Meno Nia 13
Men Fabrikas 14
Mikotel 21
Mimoza/Vinchenso 49
Mindaugas 64
Minibuses 68
Mint Vinetu 80
Miyako 37
Church of the Hol y Cross 58
Church of the Hol y Mother
of God 58
ili Pica 41
Citadele 84
City Gate 19
Cocainn 47
Collectors' Club 74
Come to Vilnius 22
Comfort Hotel Lt 19
Comfort Vilnius 19
Communicable Diseases &
AIDS Centre 88
Congress 17
Contemporary Arts Centre 13
Conti 17
Corner Hotel 21
Cosmic Bowling 90
Cozy 31
Crowne Plaza Vilnius 17
Da Antonio 36
Daikt Viebutis 83
Danish Cul tural Institute 15
Dawn Gate 61
DD Projects 84
De' avu 83
DHL 73
Didysis Pegasas 77
Didioji Krautuv 81
Diugonis 90
Dolls 53
Domino Theatre 14
Domus Maria 19
Drakono enklas 86
Draugyst 77
Druskos Namai 32
Dvaras 17
Dviratis Tau 83
Eastanbul 81
East Island Exotic 86
Eat East 27
Ecotel Vilnius 21
Eden Club 53
El Gaucho Sano 27
EMS 73
Entry 44
Esse 32
Estonia 92
Eugenijus Apartments 23
Europa 74
Europa City Vilnius 20
Europa Royale Vilnius 17
Europa Stay Vilnius 20
Europos Parkas 62
Eurovaistin 89
Exotic Spa 87
Exotic Spa Morocco 87
Fabra Ars 77
Fertility Centre 88
Fertility Clinic 88
Figaro 84
Filaretai 22
Financial Services Center 92
Fiorentino 36
Flower Market 80
Force One 90
Fortas 44
Forto Dvaras 25
Forum Cinemas Vingis 13
Forum Sports Club 90
Fototechnika 82
France 92
Franciscan Church 59
Franko 84
Frank Zappa 64
Free Ball 90
French Bookshop Pegasas 77
French Institute 15
French International School 85
Gatineau 84
Gediminas Castle &
Museum 56
Gedimino 9 74
Gedimino Vaistin 89
Gls ir Manufaktra 80
Genocide Victims' Museum 56
Georgia 92
Germany 92
Gidenta 88
Gimme 42
Gintraka 82
Goethe Institute 15
Golf City 83
Gourmet Delicafe 81
Gourmet Pizza 41
Government 92
Graf Zeppelin 25
Grand Duke Gediminas 64
Green Bridge 62
Green Vilnius Hotel 20
Grill Brazil 27
Grill Inn 32
Gringo 44
Grotthuss 17
Gyvo Alaus Krautuvl 81
AAA Mano Liza 18
Academy 13
A Hostel 22
A ir B Mackevii
Odontologijos Klinika 88
AJ okoladas 80
Akademin Knyga 77
Akropolio Blus Turgus 74
Akropolis 74
Alaus Studija 44
Alchemikas 48
Alexa 18
Algirdas City Hotels 19
Amatinink Ueiga 44
Amat Gildija 13
Ambassador 20
Amber 76
Amber Massage SPA 86
Amber Museum-Gallery 76
Amberton Hotel 16
Amber Tours 71
Ameda 21
American Center 15
American International School
of Vilnius 85
Antakalnis Cemetery 66
Apartments Domus247 23
Apia Hotel 19
Applied Arts Museum 56
Ararat 27
Archaeology Museum 56
Armenia 92
Artis Centrum Hotels 16
Arts Printing House 14
Astrida 64
Atrium 16
Auksinis Trikampis 23
Aukso Avis 82
Aula 24
Aulavis 89
Auros Vart Meno Galerija 82
Austrian Gourmet & Bistro 81
Aux Champs - El yses 29
Aval yns Taisykla 86
Ayurvedic SPA Centre
Shanti 86
Azia Spa 86
Baku-Ceyhan 39
Bal tic-American Clinic 88
balTICK Language
Services 92
Bal tic Times 87
Bal tic Travel Service
Lufthansa City Center 64, 71
Bal ti Drambliai 43
Balzac 29
Bambal yn 49
Barbacan Apartments 19
BBC World Service 87
Beata Amber 76
Beauty Institute 84
Berlin 48
Bernardine Cemetery 66
Bernardine Church &
Monastery 58
Bernardin B&B House 21
Best Western Vilnius 17
Biosala 81
Bistro 18 31
Bit 73
Bitinlis 83
Blusyn Lounge 48
BNS 87
Bokto Vartai 28
Boulingo Klubas 90
Boutique of Various Things 83
BPC Travel 71
British Council 15
Brodvjus 47
Budget 69
Bunte Gans 30
Buses 68
Bsi Treias 49
Bus Station 69
By train 6
CAC Reading Room 86
aichana 42
California Gourmet 28
California Tapas & Wine 42
Castle & Trakai History
Museum 65
Cathedral-Basilica of St.
Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus 59
Central Post Office 73
Centre for Tolerance 67
Centre of Europe 61
Centro Kubas - Angel 19
C Gates 84
Chabad Lubavitch Centre 67
Charlie Pizza 41
China 92
Choral Synagogue 67
Church Heritage Museum 56
Church of Sts. Michael &
Constantine 58
index

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