1 vitamina C 17% 4 gua 66% 1 glicerina 17% 5% B3 0,24 2% NAG 0,10 gua 70% 3,36 Glicerina 23% 1,1

Idebenone 0.5% Night Serum Niacinamide 5% + NAG 2.0%

Idebenone 0.15 grams= active Niacinamide 1.5 grams=active NAG 0.6 grams=active Ethanol 0.15 grams=diluent and penetration Borage oil 9.0 grams= oil and carrier, 'thickener', high GLA content...great oil SKB / OR Sea emollient 9.0 grams=humectant and carrier Vit E 0.3 grams =Antioxidant for skin and oil Vit A 0.3 grams = Antioxidant and skin essential active Hyaluronic acid 1% 2.4 grams = humectant and 'thickener' H20 6 grams= diluent for B3 and NAG Polysorbate 80 0.6 grams= emulsifier...and can be split 75/25 with poly 20 to enhance vit A absorption. [ but that gets into piddly measurements and what not so don't worry about it] 1. Idebenone and ethanol first....drop by drop...let sit for a while and get busy with the rest. I use 99%, but 75% will do...just enough to get it into solution and not more. If you still have bits....let it sit for a while, stir....and maybe a drop more. Patience. 2. Niacinamide and NAG and H20 ...stir till dissolved and clear. 3. Borage oil , Vit E and Vit A, and Polysorbate 80 stir well 4. SKB and HA ....mix well....use a mini mixer if you have it. 5. Then add the Idebenone, which you should have as a clear bright orange solution to your OILS...not to the water half....and stir stir stir stir.... 6. Then slowly pour while mixing into #4 and keep stirring, do not stop....soon should have a bright creamy orange serum. Stable and smooth. You can replace things...sure...but it won't be the same...it will be different. How different, you don't really know until you mix it. I know from messing with it, you can drop HA and add the difference in either of the sea extracts with no problems. But adding other bits in with other ingredients included....you'd have to BTK [ behind the knee test ] to know if it works. 9/10...probably fine..but better safe than sorry. Make a tiny batch...and test it. If you burn a hole through the back of your knee...probably not a good mix. 1. Oil of choice + Idebenone+ gentle heating till in solution Cool ...then add , Vit E and Vit A, and Polysorbate 80 stir well 2. Niacinamide and NAG and H20 ...stir till dissolved and clear. 3. SKB and HA ....mix well....use a mini mixer if you have it. 4. Combine #3 and #2.= Now it's called #32

5. Then slowly pour #1 while mixing into #32 and keep stirring, do not stop....soon should have a bright creamy orange serum. Stable and smooth. I still have step 2 (Niacinamide, NAG, H20) hanging - when/where does it get incorporated? Is it added to step 4 (SKB + HA) - and then this (24) is combined with the idebenone/oil mixture (13)

http://www.skincaretalk.com/t/34345/vitamin-c-serum-vs-niacinamide-and-nag-serum http://www.skincaretalk.com/t/21887/dragons-niacinamide-serum-question/40 http://www.skincaretalk.com/search.php?search=niacinamide&currenttab=All&start=20

1 oz26.37 grams CeraVe 1.42 grams Niacinamide .57 grams Glycerin (you can add your Gylcerin in with your Niacinamide/water mix it all up then add to the CeraVe)

95% CeraVe 5% Niacinamide For 1 ounce26.93 grams CeraVe 1.42 grams Niacinamide

I think it would be a good idea to use niacinamide for your skin. Niacinamide is a clinically proven ingredient that has legit research to back up many of its claims. IMO a moisturizer with niacinamde along with sunscreen, retinoids, and antioxidants comprise the best anti-aging skin care regimen. I too am also curious to learn more about the inhibition of sirtuins by niacinamide, but in the mean time I've listed all the reasons why niacinamide is beneficial and a favorite of mine. 1) Effective moisturizer 2) Treats inflammation 3) Helps repair DNA damage caused by UVR and can lessen UVR-induced erythema (E. Jacobson, et al: Optimizing the energy status of skin cells during solar radiation:J. Photochem. Photobiol.:2001: 63: pp 141-147) 4) Improves skin firmness, skin tone, fine lines, and wrinkles (P.K. Farris, MD: Cosmeceuticals. A Review of the Science Behind the Claims: Cosmetic Dermatology: March 2003: Vol. 16: No 3: pp 59-66) 5) It helps skin resist photodamage and delays onset of certain types of photodamage

6) Reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmentation (Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J, Berge CA.) 7) Stimulates synthesis of collagen, involoucrin, filigrn and keratin (in vitro) (British Journal of Dermatology: 2000: 143: pp 524 -531) 8) Increases biosynthesis of ceramides and other strateum corneum lipids to improve skin barrier (in vivo) (British Journal of Dermatology: 2000: 143: pp 524 -531) 9) Decrease hyperpigmentation and increase skin lightness (T. Hakozaki, et al: The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer: British Journal of Dermatology:2002:147 p 20-31)

10) enhances cutaneous exfoliation of the skin (P .K. Farris, MD: Cosmeceuticals. A Review of the Science Behind the Claims: Cosmetic Dermatology: March 2003: Vol. 16: No 3: pp 59-66) Its a favorite ingredient of Dr. Baumann and is on Paula Begoun's A-list of anti-aging ingredients.

Betty

Joined: Feb 2010 Location: Spain Posts: 173 Thanks Given: 62 Thanks Received: 115 offline

Ingredients Avocado Oil [ or oil of choice] Sea Emollient Water distilled Vit E Hyaluronic Acid 1% serum Polysorbate 80 Grape seed extract Zinc Oxide

Weight in Grams 27 grams 27 grams 18 grams 1.8 grams 6.3 grams 9 grams 0.5 grams [ will be slightly mauve] 22.5 grams

1. Oil + polysorbate 80 + Vit E = Mix well. 2. Sea Emollient + Hyaluronic Acid= Blend thoroughly.

3. ZnO + grape seed extract + H20 = Mix beyond well, 2-3 minutes with the blender, make sure to incorporate everything from the side of the bowl or beaker. 4. Then slowly pour #1 into #2, while mixing at the same time with the beater. [hand stirring will not work]. Beat for quite a while, make sure to incorporate all. Then, pour #2 back into #1 and beat again for a long spell. This will be very thick and creamy . Continue mixing for about 10 minutes and scrape the edges down to incorporate all. 5. Scrape the edges thoroughly of beaker #2 as a great deal will be hanging on the sides. 6. Before you beat #3 into the Sea Emollient + Oil mixture...beat #3 the ZnO H20 again thoroughly. 7. Now, slowly incorporate the ZnO paste into what is now beaker #1. May have to use a scraper to get the ZnO into the beaker continue blending. 8. You should have a creamy off white SS at this point. 9. You may add a preservative, however it is not really necessary as Sea emollient already contains 0.3% phenoxyethanol. ZnO is anti fungal, anti microbial in nature. 10. Essential oils may also be incorporated at the end. Do not use photo sensitizing essential oils such as bergamot or several members of the citrus family. 11. Pour the sunscreen into a sterilized bottle. The SS is almost a gel like consistency, goes on easily, but spread quickly as it soaks in very fast. Dries matte.

Dragon's ChrySun 25 % ZnO Sunscreen:

Oils 20% Sea emollient 25% Vitamin E acetate 1% H20 17 % Lecithin 8 % ZnO Coated 25% Poly 80 2% CoQ10 1% Chrysin 1%

It's almost a mousse texture, and spreads evenly, then dries matte. This one...is even lighter on the skin Oils 20% Sea emollient 15% Vitamin E acetate 1% H20 20% Lecithin 5% ZnO Coated 25%

Poly 80 ~1% CoQ10 1% Chrysin1% SC gum 2% - 10%