CHEMEKETAN CLIMB PROSPECTUS

MT. SHASTA

Climb Dates: May 8-10, 2009 Leader: John Petrie

Route: Green Butte Ridge Assistant Leader: Gloria Petrie
Max. Elevation: 14,162’
Elevation Gain: 7,302’
Round Trip Distance: 14 Miles Climb Updates/Info: http://rhinoascents.blogspot.com/

Chemeketan Rating: S1+

Technical Difficulty: Grade II, snow climb, scrambling, altitude

Driving Directions:
From Salem: Our approach begins at Bunny Flat Trailhead. Take I-5 South to California Exit #738 “Central Mt. Shasta”.
Go East on Lake Street, continuing through the Mt. Shasta Boulevard intersection, until you meet up with the Everitt
Memorial Highway (A10). Drive North 11 miles, winding up the mountain to the Bunny Flat parking lot, where we will
meet and obtain our summit permits if we don’t obtain them in town. Including breaks, the travel time from Salem to Mt
Shasta City is approximately 6 hours over a distance of 310 miles.

For those meeting at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride, the address is: 1100 Airport Rd SE, Salem, Oregon 97301

Route Description:
The Green Butte Ridge borders the east side of Avalanche Gulch, the most climbed route on the mountain. I have not yet
climbed the proposed route but I suspect it will be fairly straightforward. We may, however, encounter a knife edge or
two, or perhaps some steep sections that we’ll want to protect. It will certainly test our endurance and ability to climb at
altitude. Prime physical fitness is a must! From Bunny Flat Trailhead, we will head 2 miles up through the trees towards
a bulge at the base of the ridge just above treeline. We will gain the ridge proper above Green Butte (9,193’), and begin
our ascent up the ridge to somewhere around 10,500’, where we should find a suitable place to setup camp. Early
Sunday morning we’ll head up to where Green Butte Ridge meets Sargent’s Ridge, continue past Thumb Rock, up the
aptly named “Misery Hill”, and finally traverse up and around to the northeast side of the summit pinnacle for a short
scramble to the top. We will descend the climbing route.

Be prepared for high winds on the mountain. Weather can change drastically with very little warning.

Itinerary:
Date Time
Fri, May 8 10:00am Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride in Salem. Carpool/Caravan to Shasta City
4:00 Meet for dinner in Shasta City, buy summit permits ($20 per person, exact change)
Drive to Bunny Flat Trailhead (6,860’), car camp, review roped travel techniques
Sat, May 9 8:00am Start approach to high camp
Gain Green Butte Ridge proper above treeline (9,200’)
Continue up ridge and setup camp (~10,500’)
Sun, May 10 2:00am Rise & Shine
3:00 Start climbing
6:00 Arrive at Thumb Rock (12,923’)
Continue up towards Misery Hill, and the summit
8:30 Arrive at Summit
Descend back to camp
Descend the ridge or drop down into Avalanche Gulch for the hike out
Meet in Shasta City for dinner and summit certificates
10:00pm Arrive back in Salem

Shasta GBR Prospectus 2009 - Page 1 of 3

Required Equipment Checklist:
Unless otherwise noted, the following equipment is required for participation on this climb. The checklist below lists the
minimum items you will need and should be used as a guide only. Each climber is responsible for their own gear.

Ten Essentials: Navigation - Map & Compass (GPS if available)

Sun Protection – Sunscreen, Lip Balm, and Sunglasses (Clear Night Goggles – optional)
Insulation - Extra Clothing
Illumination - Headlamp w/ Extra Batteries
First-Aid Supplies
Fire - Fire Starter/Waterproof Matches/Lighter
Repair Kit & Tools – incl. Knife, Whistle
Nutrition - Extra Food
Hydration – Extra Water (3 liters recommended)
Emergency Shelter - Emergency Tarp/Space Blanket/Bivouac Gear
Additional Items: Wool Cap/Hat
Sun Hat/Bandana
Layered Clothing – No Cotton
Gloves/Mittens + Extras
Waterproof Jacket/Pants, Glissade Shorts/Pants (Recommended)
Mountaineering Boots – Heavy Leather, Synthetic or Plastic + Gaiters
Crampons – Fit to Boots Prior to Climb
Ice Axe
Helmet
Climbing Harness w/ Prussiks (2-3), Carabiners (2 lockers + 2 extras)
Snow Camping Gear – Tent (extra stakes), Stove (extra fuel), Water Filter, etc
Sleeping Bag w/ Winter Sleeping Pad
Snowshoes/Skis (optional but recommended)
Trekking Poles (optional)
Radios (optional) – set to 10/5 or 11/6 (TBD)
Snow Shovel (One per tent)
Other Personal Items as Necessary
Team Gear: Radios, Wands, Pickets, Rope(s), Shovel(s)

Reference/Maps:
Selters, Andy & Zanger, Michael The Mt Shasta Book, (Wilderness Press), pp. 42-45, 53
summitpost.org; climbingmtshasta.org; various independent trip reports

MAP: Mt. Shasta, CA, 7.5 minute quadrangle by USGS, 1986

Emergency Contacts:
Mount Shasta Ranger District, 530-926-4511; Siskiyou County Sheriff 530-842-8300; The Fifth Season 530-926-3606;
911. Salem Emergency Contact – TBD

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS

1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or
illness.

2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location.

3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared
for the climb.

Shasta GBR Prospectus 2009 - Page 2 of 3

Climb Team: (Posted when final)

Name Contact Phone Alt. Phone Email

1 John Petrie 503-910-9041 (m) 503-581-2825 (w) jpetrie@sgopro.com

2 Gloria Petrie 503-910-8000 (m) 503-588-8080 (w) gpetrie@ascensionaccounting.com
3
4
5
6
7
8

Alternates:

Additional Comments:
Please notify the leader if you are UNABLE to make riding arrangements to the trailhead. I encourage everyone to make
necessary arrangements to share gear as appropriate (stove, water filter, tent, etc). Superior physical fitness is a must.
If you cannot attend this climb, please let me know immediately so I can inform the alternates.

The final decision to cancel the climb will be made by Thursday morning, May 7, before 10am. If the climb is cancelled, it
may be rescheduled. Contact leader for further information.

A view of our intended route from Bunny Flat Trailhead

Shasta GBR Prospectus 2009 - Page 3 of 3