8

10b .10d arte x x 7 x x x x x x 10b x

9 x 5.6

The Milk Road

9p: 5.10c, A0
The Milk Road is probably the easiest wall route in Squamish. Most pitches are 5.10, with the first half of the route being generally more difficult than the upper half. All stations are fixed. Double ropes are needed to retreat.
This route has been some 44 years in the making, with contributions from Fred Beckey & Eric Bjornstad, Eric Lance & John Wurflinger, Peter Croft & Tami Knight, Matt Maddaloni, and completed by Jeremy Frimer & friends.

exposed arte Freeway x High Octane (11b roof) 5.?? chimney x 6

Midnight Run 5.??

Tantalus Wall

Rack: gear to 4 with extras in the finger sizes for p3 and p4. Approach: 5 minutes. From the middle Chief parking lot, follow the Freeway Trail to the base of the wall. Turn right at the wall and walk 200m, past the Dihedrals, to the base. The climb begins on a wooded terrace, marked by two cracks forming a V. Descent: Walk off via the Bellygood Ledge trail, which joins the Backside trail, to regain the parking lot (30 minutes). pitch 1 (5.??, 30m) Boulder up the V-crack to rambling terrain. At 15m height step left onto the face and make a few thin face moves to gain a sickle-shaped face feature, which leads to the belay. Jeremy Frimer, 2010. pitch 2 (5.10c, A0, 25m) A complex pitch. Move up into a curving flake. Pull over the top of the flake to reach a bolt. Traverse right to two bolts. Aid these bolts (or go free at 5.11d) then continue left before downclimbing a corner, stepping left, then climbing up to the belay. pitch 3 (5.10b, 30m) A beautiful corner with a pumpy finish. pitch 4 (5.10c, 45m) The crux. Layback an incredible, finger-sized corner for 20m before working through less sustained, but still technical climbing for the remainder. pitch 5 (5.??, 30m) Climb a corner directly above the belay to some bolt-protected face climbing above. pitch 6 (5.??, 50m) Follow moderate cracks on the left side of the ramp in a fine position to gain a tree island belay. pitch 7 (5.??, 20m) Layback and chimney straight above the belay before stepping left at a bolt to gain a face crack. When the crack splits, finger traverse left to an easy but exposed arte or follow a hand crack up and right to a chimney finish. An alternative start for this pitch steps left from the belay to blast through the overhanging hand crack of High Octane (5.11b - Colin Moorhead & Kai Hirvonen, 1999). Fred Beckey & Eric Bjornstad, 1966. Recleaned 2010. pitch 8 (5.10b, 20m) Move the belay up to beside a tree. Climb the tree to step onto a dyke, then foot traverse the dyke rightward to an exciting finish and a large ledge (10b). Paul Cordy & Jeremy Frimer, 2009 pitch 9 (5.6, 10m) Walk right and make a slab move at the end of the ledge to reach the top of the wall. Belay off a tree.

5 x x

x x

5.??

top of Milk Run

sustained layback 10c

10b Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side Tantalus Wall

A0 x x

x 10c 1 x x x x x x x xx 5.8 moss

Rock Loggers

5.??

start