Industrial Project Report An Investigation to Control Higher Measurement variation in the Finished Garment

Submitted to

Apex Cluster Development Services (p) Ltd Tirupur

Submitted by

C.B.Sentil kumar, HOD-Department of Knitting Technology, NIFT TEA Knitwear Fashion Institute, East of TEKIC, Mudalipalayam, Tirupur 641 606 Contact: 96777 46122

Table of Contents
1. Introduction

1.1 quality related problems in garment manufacturing 1.2 Various defects in garments: 1.3 Shrinkage and its causes 1.3.1 Construction Shrinkage 1.3.2 Processing Shrinkage 1.3.3 Elastic Shrinkage 1.3.4Drying Shrinkage 2. Objective of the Study 3. Research Methodology 4. Data collection 4.1 Reasons for Measurement Variation 5. Findings of Investigation 5.1 Fabric Stage Problem 5.2 Spreading and Cutting Stage Problem 5.3 Pattern Making and Marker Planning Stage Problem 5.4 Sewing Stage Problem 5.5 Finishing Stage Problem 6. Framing of Guidelines and check list 6.1 Forms to record the Data 6.2 Sampling plan with allowable defects 6.3 Work Station to perform the Inspection 7. Implementation and standardization of Process 8. Garment Rejection% before& after implementation 8.1 Stage wise Improvement 9. Conclusion 10. Acknowledgment 11. References

1. Introduction
For every industry or business, to get increased sales and better name amongst consumers and fellow companies it is important to maintain a high level of quality. In the Garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment. Here some of main properties that are taken into consideration for garment manufacturing for export basis: Overall look of the garment. Right formation of the garment. Feel and fall of the garment. Physical properties. Colour fastness of the garment. Presentation of the final produced garment. 1.1 quality related problems in garment manufacturing There are certain quality related problems in garment manufacturing that should not be over looked: Sewing defects - Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, miss out of stitches in between, Colour effects - Colour defects that could occur are difference of the colour of final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong colour combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces. Sizing defects - Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part from other, for example- sleeves of XL size but body of L size. Such defects do not occur has to be seen too. Garment defects - During manufacturing process defects could occur like faulty zippers, irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes, uneven parts, inappropriate trimming, and difference in fabric colours 1.2Various defects in garments: Broken buttons Broken snaps Broken stitching Defective snaps Different shades within the same garment Dropped stitches Exposed notches Inoperative zipper Loose / hanging sewing threads Missing buttons Needle cuts / chews Open seams Pulled / loose yarn Stain Unfinished buttonhole Zipper too short Exposed raw edges Fabric defects

1.3 Shrinkage and its causes The term shrinkage can simply be defined as a change in the dimensions of a fabric or garment. This dimensional change may be in a positive (growth) or negative (shrinkage) direction for fabric length, width, and thickness. For a cotton fabric, shrinkage relates to the loss of the length and/or width dimensions. In garment form, the shrinkage characteristics relate not only to a change in fabric dimensions, but also can relate to other parameters such as seam puckering, torquing, and overall garment fit. For this discussion, shrinkage can be further defined as a dimensional change in a fabric or garment caused by an application of a force, energy, or a change in environment that either
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allows the goods to relax or forces the fabric to move in a given direction. Cotton fabrics are often predisposed to dimensional instability, especially knits which are very sensitive to applied forces or energies. Therefore, whenever cotton knit fabric is manipulated in processing, its dimensions will change. If the fabrics are tested for their dimensions after a given process, the results may be different than from the previous process. Obviously then, shrinkage at any step in processing is residual in nature. Residual shrinkage will be the amount of shrinkage a fabric contains plus or minus what subsequent processing stresses apply to or remove from the fabric. Poor control of these forces in processing can lead to high garment shrinkage as the after effect. Shrinkage and the cause of shrinkage can be further defined or broken down into two different types: construction shrinkage and processing shrinkage. This means that shrinkage is affected by the construction parameters of the fabric, and it is also affected by the forces applied in processing in the dyeing and finishing departments as well as the apparel manufacturing facility. 1.3.1 Construction Shrinkage After cotton fabric is constructed on a knitting machine, it has inherent characteristics based solely on the yarn construction variables used. The type of shrinkage measured at Grey is defined as construction shrinkage. Construction shrinkage is defined as the amount of dimensional change in a fabric based solely on the construction variables used to create the fabric. It is measured after fabrication but before subsequent processes. 1.3.2 Processing Shrinkage All processing steps in a dyeing and finishing plant and in an apparel manufacturing operation affect the dimensions of a product. The steps create processing shrinkage, which can be defined as the dimensional change that a process adds to or removes from the construction shrinkage of a fabric, and thereby changes the residual shrinkage accordingly. Length and width dimensions are both affected, and the fabrics may either be stretched or consolidated. Most often, the length is

stretched and the width is reduced during wet processing. Some of this shrinkage is composed of elastic shrinkage and can be easily recovered while some of the change in dimensions may not be recovered, because the elastic limits of the fabric as constructed have been exceeded. 1.3.3 Elastic Shrinkage Elastic shrinkage is defined as a change in dimensions of a fabric as a result of the ability of the fabric to freely relax from tensions experienced during construction and other processing. In the case of cotton greige knit goods, tensions in forming the knitted loop, from the takedown and from spreader mechanisms on a knitting machine, are examples of stresses that may induce elastic shrinkage, which becomes a part of the construction shrinkage. The stress in transporting of fabric in bleaching and dyeing machines as well as finishing operations will also induce elastic shrinkage. Normally, the recovery from elastic stresses (realization of elastic shrinkage) is fairly spontaneous when these stresses are relieved, especially in a dry medium. Relaxed dimensions are defined as the state at which a fabric is fully relaxed and will not shrink further as a result of washing and tumble drying. Relaxed dimensions are also referred to as the reference state. In todays modern finishing plants, methods are used to attempt to overcome processing shrinkage and reduce construction shrinkage. These methods include relaxation drying, compaction, and/or chemical processes. Relaxation drying and compaction are examples of consolidation shrinkage. The former occurs naturally by deswelling of the cotton fiber/yarn assembly while applying unrestricted agitation with no tensions in the length or width. The latter is a dry mechanical effect gained by forcing the fabric structure to compact upon itself. The more processes of this type the mill can effectively apply along with linear forces removed from the processing, then the lower and more consistent the amount of shrinkage.

1.3.4Drying Shrinkage Drying shrinkage is defined as dimensional change in a fabric when deswelling of fiber, yarn, and construction occurs in the drying step. The structure shrinks upon itself as a result of the physics of drying. This swelling and deswelling phenomenon along with mechanical action is used in the AATCC Test Method 135-03. The test uses a washing machine to wet out (swell) the fiber/fabric under tensionless conditions and a tumble dryer to apply energy in the form of mechanical tumbling with heat to deswell and fully relax the fabric/garment. Tumble drying without restrictions (tension) is a form of mechanical compression and allows for maximum drying shrinkage to take place.

In Figure 1, the loop shown on the right is elongated in the length direction and would exhibit high length shrinkage. After the fabric is allowed to shrink due to the swelling and deswelling under tensionless conditions and mechanical action, the loop assumes a rounded shape as shown on the left. Relaxed Loop Elongated Loop

Also during swelling and deswelling steps, absorbed or bound water acts as a lubricant, and the application of energy in the form of mechanical action (a dynamic force) upon the fabric will
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result in even higher levels of shrinkage. Therefore in drying (deswelling), the loops in a knitted structure are trying to assume a round configuration. Drying shrinkage is normally removed only by large amounts of energy as opposed to low amounts of energy needed to remove elastic shrinkage. It is important to realize that elastic shrinkage occurs in the early stage of drying.

2. Objective of the Study

The industry was faced by higher final stage Rejection/Rework due to Measurement Variation problems in the finished garments. The objective of this study is taken to control higher final stage Rejection/Rework of around 5-6% due to the Measurement Variation which commonly found in the Knitwear Industry and bring down the rejection rate to below 2%.

3. Research Methodology

COLLECTION OF DATA PERTAINING TO MEASUREMENT VARIATION

BY CRITICAL ANALYSIS LIST OUT ISSUES AND FIND OUT POSSIBLE ROOT CAUSES

FRAMING AND ESTABLISHING GUIDELINES / CHECKLISTS

TRAINING OF EMPLOYEES AND CONDUCTING AWARENESS WORKSHOP

IMPLEMENTING THE CHECKLISTS AND SYSTEMS AUDIT TO CHECK THE EFFECTIVENESS OF IMPLEMENTATION

4. Data Collection The datas pertaining to measurement variations were collected in all stages of garment production. 4.1 Reasons for Measurement Variation From the above collected datas following reasons are stands out that affect the measurement variation. Poor Dimensional Stability of fabric. Lack of sufficient fabric relaxation. Poor shrinkage control in Compacting Excessive dragging during spreading Incorrect Seam and Ease allowance in pattern Too many no. of plies during Spreading Blunt Knife edges Excessive Trimming wastage during Sewing. Incorrect Machine settings leads to pull/pucker the fabric Not following the correct measurement charts at all the stage. Lack of awareness among workers in all stages of Production. Lack of awareness among workers in all stages of Production.

5. Findings of Investigation The identified problems are classified into five major areas that contribute to measurement variation. The detailed stage wise Effect, Cause and Contribution percentage are as listed below.

5.1 Fabric Stage Problem

Effect
Poor Dimensional Stability of fabric Poor Shrinkage control in Compacting

Cause
Incorrect Selection of Optimum loop Length and Machine Gauge Compacting Was not performed as per pre-compacting shrinkage Report

Leads to
10%

15%

5.2 Spreading and Cutting Stage Problem

Effect
Lack of Sufficient fabric Relaxation Too many no of plies during spreading Excessive dragging during spreading Blunt knife edges

Cause
Operators are not allowing sufficient time for relaxation Ply height was found to be more than 7 Higher dragging tension maintained between spreader roller to lay Edges of knife are not sharp and it leads to uneven shaping

Leads to
10%

15%

20%

5%

5.3 Pattern Making and Marker Planning Stage Problem

Effect
Improper Seam& Ease allowance In Marker stage, Pattern Edges are not Sharp

Cause
Seam& Ease Allowance are not given depends on fabric characteristics Pattern Edges are not sharp

Leads to
3.5%

6.5%

5.4 Sewing Stage Problem

Effect
Excessive Trimming Wastage

Cause
Due to Lack of awareness among workers in Sewing excessive edge trimmings are found Machine settings Such as feed dog movement are not correlate to the fabric surface properties and leads to pull/pucker the fabric

Leads to
7%

Incorrect machine Setting

8%

5.5 Finishing Stage Problem

Effect
Poor handling of Garments

Cause
Due to Lack of awareness among workers in ironing stage Garments are stretched Not following the correct measurement charts at all the stage.

Leads to
7%

8%

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6. Framing of Guidelines and check list To Control the Measurement variation, In-process auditing was strengthened in the organization to control not only measurement variation but also sewing defects. Good in process controls assures the timely delivery of shipment. Hence, In process auditing Tools developed as below. Forms to record and audit the Data Sampling plan with allowable defects Workstation to perform the inspection Visual example on the Sewing floor to illustrate how product should be made 6.1 Forms to record the Data The checklists were prepared to control the measurement variation as attached in the Annexure. 1. Compacting Report 2. Fabric inspection report 3. Cutting room inspection report 4. Pattern audit report 5. End line rejection report 6.2 Sampling plan with allowable defects A sampling plan contains the statistically calculated number of items to be inspected and no.of defects to be allowed were prepared as below Stage Compacting Shrinkage report Quantity Units to be inspected Upto 100 Rolls Fabric Inspection 100 to 200 Rolls >200 Rolls Spreading/cutting room inspection Sewing inspection Upto 100 Bundles 100 to 200 Bundles >200 Bundles 180 11 For each lot 10 % of Rolls 7 % of Rolls 5 % of Rolls 10 % of Bundles 7 % of Bundles 5 % of Bundles 7 0 3 Defects/Bundle 40 Points/100 Sq.yd Defectives allowable level +/- 5%

6.3 Work Station to perform the Inspection To inspect the materials, its necessary to provide proper work station for Quality controllers. The work station should have sufficient space, work aids and its very importantly that the inspect area have good light. End line sewing defects should record in proper way and line Q.C increases the inline audit focusing that highlight operation.

7.0 Implementation and standardization of Process The below table gives better outline for selection of suitable yarn count and loop length for the required GSM. Single Jersey plain structures 100% Cotton and Similar fabrics S. no 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Count (Ne) 15s 18s 20s 25s 30s 34s 40s Count (Tex) 39.6 32.8 29.5 23.6 19.7 17.4 14.8 Optimum loop Length in Cms .45-.38 .41-.35 .38-.33 .35-.29 .31-.25 .30-.25 .27-.23 Grey Relaxed GSM Min 180 165 160 140 110 100 85 Max 210 200 190 170 140 120 110 Finished GSM* Min 200 190 175 160 140 125 100 Max 240 230 220 200 165 150 120

* Expected Shrinkage In length and Width +/- 5%

Double Jersey 1X1 Rib structure 100% Cotton and Similar fabrics S. no 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Count (Ne) 18s 20s 25s 30s 34s 40s Count (Tex) 32.8 29.5 23.6 19.7 17.4 14.8 Optimum loop Length in Cms .46-.39 .43-.37 .39-.33 .36-.30 .33-.28 .30-.26 Grey Relaxed GSM Min 200 180 170 150 130 110 Max 260 230 200 170 150 135 Finished GSM* Min 240 220 200 180 155 130 Max 320 300 260 220 180 150

* Expected Shrinkage In length and Width +/- 5% 12

Double Jersey Interlock structure 100% Cotton and Similar fabrics

S. no 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Count (Ne) 30s 34s 40s 45s 50s

Count (Tex) 19.7 17.4 14.8 13.1 9.8

Optimum loop Length in Cms .35-.30 .33-.29 .30-.27 .29-.25 .25-.22

Grey Relaxed GSM Min 190 170 160 145 120 Max 240 210 180 160 145

Finished GSM* Min 240 210 190 170 140 Max 300 250 210 195 170

* Expected Shrinkage In length and Width +/- 5%

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8. Garment Rejection% before& after implementation After the implementation of the above checklist garment rejection rate due to measurement variation was bring down from 5 to 2%.

Before implementation After implementation

8.1 Stage wise Improvement The below graph shows improvement % in process wise.

50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 F abric S tag e S preading and C utting P attern Making S ewing F inishing

C ontribution%

S tag es of Produc tion

B efore
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After

9. Conclusion To Reduce the Rejections, employees are trained in their relevant area. Implemented the checklists at necessary places. Instructed to audit to check list for the effectiveness of its implementation. After the above implementation, the record shows that the improvement in reduction of variation / defects is around 70 %( Rejection% -5% to 2%)

10. Acknowledgment
I would like to express my sincere thanks to Apex Cluster Development Service P

Ltd, SIDBI for providing financial support to carry out the investigation. I would like to place my heartfelt gratitude to the Management, Principal and Staffs of NIFT TEA Knitwear Fashion Institute for their timely help and providing necessary resources. I hardly express my hearty and sincere thanks to Prof. K.J.Sivagnanam, Vice Principal, NIFT-TEA knitwear Fashion Institute, for extending his timely help and encouragement. I would like to record my deep sense of appreciation and thanks to M/S. Talma Clothing Company Pvt. Ltd, Tirupur for permitting me to utilise resources of their organization.

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11. References
1. http://www.ellisdev.co.uk/fabric.html

2. http://www.garmento.org/process&skills/chapter10.pdf 3. www.fibre2fashion.com 4. A guide to improved shrinkage performance of cotton fabrics 5. Murray, John M., Sense and Nonsense in Apparel Testing for Shrinkage, Sense and
Nonsense in Knit Testing AATCC Symposium, November 18, 1975.

6. Gordon, B., Bailey, D. L., et al, Shrinkage Control of Cotton Knits by Mechanical Techniques, Textile Chemist and Colorist, November 1984.

7. Bailey, D. L. and Tyndall, R. M., Shrinkage Control of Cotton Knits, Textile and Needle Trades Division, American Society for Quality Control, Vol. 17, 1989.

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Daily End line Rejection Report

Customer Order no: Fabric Quality Colour : Line No Order Qty.

Construction
Date Production Defect Today TTL Defect

Fabric
Today TTL

Handling Mistake Today TTL

Measurment variation Today TTL

Total Qty Rejection% Rejection Repaired

Checked By

QAM

Fabric Comapcting Report

Customer Order no: No. of Rolls/Quantity: Fabric Quality Colour GSM Req. Fabric Dia Before Wash After Wash GSM Before Wash After Wash : Lot No Tubular/open Reqd. Width

Before Comapcting
Dimensional Change Length Width Action to be Taken in Comapcting

After Comapcting
Dimensional Change Length Width Fabric Dia Before Wash After Wash GSM Before Wash After Wash

Remarks

Tested By

Verified By

Compacting Supervisor

Cutting Room Inspection Report

Customer Order no: Custome: Lay Length Req: Points To Check Observation (Ok/Not ok) Table Marker Bowing Fabric Quality : Colour GSM(Req/Act). Lay No Tubular/open Reqd./Act Width Lay Length actual: Mis alighnenment of Narrow Goods Plies

Spreading Inspection Report

Leanining Tension

Cuts Inspection Report

Size Bundles Inspected Matching Plies Defects Miss Cut Ragging Cuts Notches Paterrn Check Total Defect Defect Rate

Inspection Summary
Causes of defect Fabric Defect Spreading defect Cutting defect Marker setting Inspected By Defect Rate General Comments:

Verified By

Approved By

Received By

Fabric Inspection Report

Customer Order no: Style No: Fabric Quality Roll no Roll wt in Kgs supplier : Colour Batch No. Fabric length in Mtrs Fabric Width in CMS Patches found Yes/No Rope Marks found Yes/No Total No. of Rolls/Kgs Total No. of Rolls/Kgs Reqd. Width Point Wise No. of Faults 1 point 2 point 3 point 4 point Total Points Points 100Sq mtrs Remarks

Testing Report
Shrinkage Spirality Color Fastnes Sewability Shade GSM Req/Act

Inspected By

Verified By

Approved By

Received By