SPECIAL FINISHES TO IMPROVE RESILIENCY AND HAND-FEEL OF THE NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON KHADI FABRIC

Thesis submitted to the University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad In partial fulfillment of the requirement for the

Degree of

MASTER OF HOME SCIENCE

In

TEXTILES AND APPAREL DESIGNING

By SUJATA H. MULASAVALAGI

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL DESIGNING COLLEGE OF RURAL HOME SCIENCE

UNIVERSITY OF AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES, DHARWAD 580 005

AUGUST 2005

ADVISORY COMMITEE

Dharwad August, 2005

Approved by : Chairman :

(SHAILAJA D. NAIK) MAJOR ADVISOR

___________________________ SHAILAJA D. NAIK

Members

: 1. __________________________ GEETA MAHALE

2. ____________________________ JYOTI V.VASTRAD

3. ____________________________ PUSHPA BHARATI

CONTENTS

CHAPTER NO. I

TITLE

PAGE NO.

INTRODUCTION

II

REVIEW OF LITERATURE

III

MATERIALS AND METHODS

IV

RESULTS

DISCUSSION

VI

SUMMARY

VII

REFERENCE

LIST OF TABLES
Table No. 1. Title Effect of crease resistant finish on yarn count (Ne) Page No.

2.

Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth count (Numerical expression) Effect of crease resistant finish on mass per unit area (g) Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth thickness (mm) Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth bending length (cm)

3. 4. 5. 6.

Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth crease recovery angle (degree)

7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth dimensional stability (%) Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth elongation (%) Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth tensile strength (kgf)

Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth tear strength (g) Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth abrasion resistance (cycles) Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth drapability (%) Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth pilling (Ratings) Effect of enzymatic finish on yarn count (Ne)

12. 13. 14.

15. 16. 17. 18. 19.

Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth count (Numerical expression) Effect of enzymatic finish on mass per unit area (g) Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth thickness (mm) Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth bending length (cm) Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth crease recovery angle (degree)

20. 21. 22. 23. 24.

Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth dimensional Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth elongation (%)

stability (%)

Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth tensile strength (kgf) Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth tear strength (g) Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth abrasion resistance (cycles)

25. 26. 27. 28.

Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth drapability (%) Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth pilling (Ratings) Effect of softener finish on yarn count (Ne) Effect of softener finish on cloth count (Numerical expression)

29. 30. 31. 32. 33.

Effect of softener finish on mass per unit area (g) Effect of softener finish on cloth thickness (mm) Effect of softener finish on cloth bending length (cm) Effect of softener finish on cloth crease recovery angle (degree) Effect of softener finish on cloth dimensional stability (%)

34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40.

Effect of softener finish on cloth elongation (%) Effect of softener finish on cloth tensile strength (kgf) Effect of softener finish on cloth tear strength (g) Effect of softener finish on cloth abrasion Effect of softener finish on cloth drapability (%) Effect of softener finish on cloth pilling (Ratings) Influence of bending length on crease recovery of specially finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics Influence of bending length on drapability of specially finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics resistance (cycles)

41.

LIST OF FIGURES
Figure No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Title Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth count (Numerical expression) Effect of enzyme treatment on cloth bending length (cm) Effect of softener finish on cloth tear strength (g) Influence of bending length on crease recovery of specially finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics Influence of bending length on drapability of specially finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics Between pages

LIST OF PLATES
Plate No. 1. Title Garment processor - Used for application of special finish Between pages

2.

Hydro machine - Used to extract excess finishing solution after application of finish Drier - Used for drying samples after finishing

3.

LIST OF SPECIMEN
Specimen No. 1. Title Crease resistant finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics Between pages

2. 3.

Enzyme treated naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics Softener treated naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics

I. INTRODUCTION
The plant described as natural wonder that bore wool instead of fruit and this wool of course was cotton, which was first mentioned in the writings of the Great historian Herodotus who lived around four hundred and eighty four years before the Christian era. The word cotton derived from the Arabic dialect and is pronounced as kutun, qutn and qutun. The naturally coloured cotton is inherently pigmented fibre that grows in the shades and tints of green and brown. The early records further reported the existence of brown varieties apart from pink and lavender tints. The shades of colour cotton do vary with seasonal variations and geographical conditions indicating an impact of soil and climatic variations. In olden days the naturally colour cotton grown was not all that popular hence was not preferred much, because of low yields, less encouraging properties and low spinnability. But, in 1982 Sally Fox, the plant breeder now based in Wickenberg, Arizona (USA) worked intensively on breeding and selection programme to improve length and quality of naturally colour cotton fibres. By 1988, she achieved success in developing colour cotton hybrids with fibres long enough to machine spin (Fox, 1987). This success of breeding the machine-spinnable, naturally colour cotton fibre lead Sally Fox to establish Natural Colour Inc., who ultimately received a certificate of plant variety protection for her cotton and a registered trade mark as Fox Fibre. Presently there are four varieties of Fox Fibre commercially grown viz., Coyte Fox Fibre, a short staple with warm reddish brown linted variety. Buffalo Fox Fibre, a bronze brown fibre. Green Fox Fibre, the original green linted variety. Palo Verde Fox Fibre, a new improved green linted variety (website: http://www.nodyes@foxfibre.com) Of the colour cottons cultivated, brown and green are the most common ones. The naturally coloured cotton plant type resembles the normal white cotton except for the specific gene for pigmentation of the fibre. When cotton boll bursts, the white lint appears and gradually changes to brown colour on exposure to sunlight. Whereas, the green variety gradually fades on exposure to ultra violet rays except its inner core (Khadi et al., 1996). Though the yield of colour linted cotton is comparatively low per acre, the farmers do get better price for their harvest. In 1996, the world market prices for coloured cotton ranged from $ 1.80 to $ 5.00 per pound and $ 0.75 to $ 1.15 per pound of conventional white cottons (Dickensen, et al. 1999). Thus, the farmers engaged in the production of naturally coloured cotton did experience a better profit margin over conventional white cotton. The recent genetic investigations in colour linted cottons highlighted several positive features like higher lint yield, acceptable fibre quality, spinnability, colour stability, enhancement of single yarn strength as well as pigmentation on scouring and mercerization (Khyadi and Naik, 1999, Gandhad and Naik, 1999 and Renuka and Naik, 2003). During cultivation the colour cotton crop probably may need few applications of pesticides. However, it was stated that, colour cottons are not only insect and disease resistant but also drought and salt tolerant (Dickensen, et al. 1999). Further, these varieties can be grown successfully by organic farming methods. It is true that shorter staple fibres can be spun into coarser yarn that eventually result into coarser fabric. These coarser fabrics, many times are categorized as low-grade textile materials. The naturally coloured cotton whose staple length ranges from 16mm to 20mm can be spun to 20s to 30s whose coarser texture, hand-feel and resiliency can be improved remarkably by applying special finishes. Whether, white or pigmented, all cottons being cellulosic in nature posses the most advantageous characteristics like good absorbancy, better breathability, graceful drapability and are user friendly. But, low resiliency is its inherent drawback. Formation of unwanted folds or wrinkles are the result of vulnerability of cellulose to bend and result into creases that inturn ruin the appearance and aesthetic appeal.

The susceptibility of cellulosic fibres to creases and wrinkles leads to the phenomenon of creasing. Creases are the result of the distortion of the cellulosic material where the fabric is stretched beyond its power of elastic recovery. Creasing leads an extension of the cellulose on the upper surface and compression on the under surface (Booth, 1976). However, by application of crease resisting agents, the textile fabric can be made to crease resistant. The most desirable features of crease resisting agents are low formaldehyde content, excellent handle, minimum loss to cloth tensile strength and cloth abrasion, minimum use of cross linking agents, better wash fastness and environment friendly. The finish is applied either by pad-application or exhaust method. In pad-application method, the fabric is padded with crease resisting solution to eighty per cent pick up and cured at 150C to 100C for fifteen minutes, whereas in exhaust method the fabric is treated by any one of the tumble method and dip method carried out either in drum or tumble or washing machine for 15 to 20 minutes and cured at 150 C to 160 C for 10-15 minutes. In dip method, instead of tumble washing machine, tub is used for finishing where the treatment is given for 20 minutes to hydro-extract the fabric for 70-85 per cent wet pick up. Curing is done similar to tumble method. The fabric with crease resistant finish showed better resistance for crease formation with improved dimensional stability, even after several launderings (Edward, 2001). It is true that the coarser fabrics fetch meager price. Eventually coloured cotton fabrics which are also coarser in texture and hand-feel need some special finishes to improve its texture and aesthetic. There are several natural and commercial chemicals available in the market of which softeners and enzymes occupy the top most place in the art of softening as they impart excellent handling effects with easy handling and eco-friendly nature. Enzymes are the organic compounds of high molecular weight and are chief components of animal tissue and plant seeds. These enzymes are used in most of the preparatory processes, since they accelerate the reaction rate, act exclusively on selective substrate, react under mild conditions, safe and easy to use, have capacity to replace harsh chemicals and are biodegradable. Presently, the enzymes viz., amylase, catalase, cellulase, hemicellulase, lipase, pectinase and protease are predominantly used in most of the textile-wet processes. Amylases are derived from micro-organisms, plants and animals and are specific to starch and used for desizing as it does not harm the support fabric. Proteolytic or protease enzymes are of animal origin and help in hydrolyzing peptide bonds, degumming and softening the silk fabric. Commercial cellulase is a crude mixture of multiple enzyme system that helps in hydrolysis of cellulose. It also hydrolysis the surface properties of the fibre, yarn and fabric, thus, imparting the desired hand and feel properties. Cellulase has replaced the use of pumice stones in Stone washing of denim garments to produce faded and aged effects by removing fuzz and pills from the fabric surface. Pectinase is successfully used to separate pectin from jute, ramie and flax. Pectinase and hemi-cellulase under controlled conditions are found to be very effective in retting flax fibres. This treatment is proven to be quicker and more environmentally friendly than the traditional retting process. Pectinases when used along with cellulase, efficiently eliminates the impurities in raw cotton and carbonizes the wool. The clothing articles both garments as well as household textiles need to be soft in handle, because softness adds to physical comfort and aesthetic appeal. The consumers consider the hand-feel of the fabric as a major factor in selection of textiles. The removal of natural waxes and fats from the fibre/ fabric during the preparatory process makes the fabric

brittle to some extent. Presently, fabric softeners are used to impart softness to the fibres or fabrics in order to produce desirable handle (Malik et al., 2004). Thus, main purpose of softener finish is to improve the aesthetic properties such as desired handle, natural feeling and handling effects of coarse fabric apart from positively influencing some of the durable properties like abrasion resistance, antistatic, elasticity, hydrophilic behaviour and so on. The desirable properties, a textile softener as to posses are easy handling, compatibility with other finishing chemicals, low formability, non-toxicity, non-corrosivity, biodegradability and dermatologically safe. The softeners used popularly for softening are amphoteric, anionic, cationic, nonionic, reactive, silicone softener and however, new ones are constantly being added to the list (Malik et al., 2004). As per the Agreement on Textile and Clothing (ATC) the textile quota has been phased out and textile sector is fully integrated into World Trade Organization (WTO) by January 1, 2005. The liberalized trade regime has resulted into increased International Trade in textiles thus, not only provided greater export opportunities to the Nation but also exposed domestic industry to import foreign goods in the domestic market. Hence, it is challenge for textile industry to improve its efficiency and productivity to sustain the WTO policy (Jha, 2005). Among all the textile fabrics cotton garments are most accepted and admired because of their extremely positive image of naturalness and gentleness. Further, ban on hazardous chemical dyes on one side and positive encouragement for natural fibre fabrics on other side probably has thrown light on better production, marketing and utilization of natural colour cottons. Thus, the garments made from naturally colour cotton probably have better place amongst the other fibre fabrics because of not only being eco-friendly but also user friendly eventually. The staple length of colour cotton being short necessitates to improve some of the physical and functional properties, which is possible by subjecting the naturally colour cotton fabrics to special finishes. Keeping this in view the present study on Special finishes to improve resiliency and hand-feel of naturally colour cotton khadi fabric is taken up with following objectives: 1. To explore, the possibility of improving the resiliency and hand-feel of the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric by application of special finishes.

2. To assess the impact of special finishes on the mechanical and functional properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric.

II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE

This chapter presents the relevant research articles pertaining to the present study on Special finishes to improve resiliency and hand feel of the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric are reviewed and presented under the following headings 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.3.1 2.3.2 History and development of naturally coloured cottons Special finishes to improve hand-feel of cotton fabrics and its blended fabrics Special finishes to improve physical properties of cotton and its blended fabrics Mechanical properties Functional properties

2.1 History and development of naturally coloured cotton

In todays colourful fashionable world, dyeing of yarns, fabrics and garments have become mandatory. Dyeing and finishing are the most water intensive processes in any textile mill. The disposal of effluents after dyeing and finishing processes cause environmental pollution with unpredictable chain reactions and further some dyeing agent containing carcinogens cause adverse effect on the health of the workers. It is also true that synthetic fibre and dyed fabric bring health hazards associated with skin. The process of selected or some of the chemical dyeing and finishing preferably denatures the original properties of cotton fibre. Any effort to reduce or eliminate pollution caused due to chemical dyeing and finishing is possible by utilization of naturally coloured cottons. The use of naturally coloured cotton being unique and attractive has tremendous potentiality to become a vital part of the cotton fabric and apparel market. However, the naturally coloured cottons are inherently inferior to white cotton in one or the other aspects. To mention some, coloured cotton lint is relatively short, weak and coarse, non-uniform natural pigment and the yield being low compared to many white cottons. However, constant efforts are made to improve the physical characteristics of colour cottons by intensive research. The following are some of the reviews that provide information about history and development of naturally colour cottons. Sikka and Joshi (1960) and Endrizzi et. al. (1985) reviewed about the genetics of colour lint. A dominant gene conditioned the colour limitation over white besides action of a few to several intensifiers and modifiers, especially in old world cottons. Some authors have reported a three-factor control of lint colour. In todays world of cottons the natural colour cotton has a parallel existence. The main lint colour genes are uncommon in G. hirsutum except near the centre of diversity, but the species as a whole is at a high level of modifying complexes. In G. barbadense L., the modern slight creamy white Egyptian or Island cottons posses one main brown colour gene and a strongly suppressing modifier background. In G. hirsutum some forms of bright green lint are observed that fade on exposure to sunlight to brownish green and is dominant to white. Fox (1987) in a paper on Naturally coloured cotton highlighted that, lint colour of the cotton ranges from white to tan brown, red brown or grayish. The majority of wild cottons bear coloured lint rather than white. This variation though existing to cotton, naturalists and hand spinners had an unfortunate draw back i.e., the fibre being too short to be spun, where the length varied from almost non-existent to 1/3rd inch. The wild cottons therefore, are a source of fibre colour rather than lint quality. Over the centuries through plant selection and later plant breeding the scientists have greatly improved the fibre length that in turn improved the spinning characteristics of colour cottons. The genus Gossypium comprises of four cultivated and 45 wild and semi wild species. Most of these species bear colour lint but are non-spinnable (Anon, 1992).

A study on Cotton, naturally revealed that Naturally coloured cottons are not new but were been around for over 5000 years. The availability of inexpensive dyes and the need for higher output cotton production worldwide caused naturally coloured cottons to almost disappear about 50 years ago. Moreover, the yield was low and fibre was too short and too weak to be machine spun. The present day naturally coloured cottons are shorter, weaker and finer than regular upland cottons but can be successfully spun into ring and rotor yarns for many applications and also be blended with normal white cottons or amongst themselves. Thus, the use of dye could be completely eliminated in textile finishing. In textile finishing naturally coloured cottons now can be either organically or conventionally grown (Burnett, 1994). Charyulu (1996) in a study on Naturally coloured Asiatic cottons of India reported that, colour cotton types created interest among researchers in early 1920s and 1950s for study of their inheritance of lint colour genes. Asiatic brown linted cotton varieties i.e., Cocanadas-1, Cocanadas-2 and Red Northerns were grown on commercial scale in Andhra Pradesh during the first half of the century. But due to low productivity and low fibre strength the cultivation was not continued further. Again in recent past, interest was revived on colour cottons in view of their eco friendly characters and export potentiality. But lot of monitoring is required in seed production, ginning, processing, distribution, commercial cultivation and their marketing, when high yielding varieties with desirable fibre characters are being developed and released. Khadi et. al. (1996) conducted a study on Coloured cotton: Problems and their prospects. It was reported that sunlight had great influence on the development and fading of the colour. When the boll bursts, the white lint appears and changes gradually to brown colour within few days. It takes almost a week for the complete development of colour whereas the green lint during the time of boll opening starts, fading on exposure to sunlight and was found to be rapid. The intensity of natural colour on exposure to sunlight is specific for some colours and therefore cannot be generalized. Narayana, et. al (1996) performed a study on Fibre quality of certain coloured linted cotton germplasm of Gossypium hirsutum L. For the experiment, 20 coloured G. hirsutum germplasm were grown at CSIR, Nagpur (1993-94) during Kharif season in the rainfed conditions for evaluating the technological properties. Only seven germplasm accessions gave sufficient lint yield to conduct fibre quality evaluation. Results revealed that five brown linted germplasm possessed inferior fibre quality, but were superior to green linted germplasm in colour expression. The green linted types needed improvement for intensity, uniformity and strength of color besides fibre strength, while linted germplasm as well as further colour intensified at various shades of brown through appropriate breeding strategies. Venugopal and Gururajan (1996) mention that genetic expression of colour in the lint takes place only when the boll burst and the lint is exposed to sunlight. It takes about one week for the lint to turn into its natural colour. Its interesting to note that sunlight, which is essential for the development of colour is also responsible for the fading due to continuous exposure. Green colour is observed to fade more quickly than the brown. Next to sunlight, the intensity of colour did depend on soil mineral content. The shades may differ geographically from place to place and season to season. A study on Naturally hued cotton: it is not new for khadi was conducted by Sinha (1998) and reported that the Andhra fine khadi popularly known as Ponduru means a hand crafted textile material and mechanization of any process would run ponduru of its exclusive characters. It was mentioned that as the constituent processes from fibre to cloth production are manual, there is no chance for fibre rupture and thus possible to produce superfine counts of even upto 120s from short staples. Three verities of coloured cottons used in the production of Andhra fine Khadi are Hill cottons, Punasa cottons and Red cottons. Khadi et.al.,(1999) carried out an experiment at Agricultural Research station (ARS), Dharwad under rainfed condition to gauze the available variation in G. hirsutum genotypes having varying brown shades. The variation observed was very high for characters like yield (243-1296 kg/ha) Ginning Out Turn (GOT) (19.09 40.0%) and fibre length (12.25 30.0

mm). For these characters the maximum value observed was higher than the white check Abadhita, there by indicating that some coloured genotypes can also perform on par with white. The colour range observed was deep dark brown, medium and long fibre category. It was inferred that naturally brown colour cottons are potential to perform on par with white cottons along with desirable fibre properties. Murthy, (2001) presented a note on coloured cotton entitled Story of coloured cottons and revealed that several lint coloursbrown, black, mahogany red, red, khaki, pink, blue, green, dirty white and white were being cultivated in South and Central America as early as 2300 B.C. These fibres were mainly used to make fishing nets with an idea that nets made of dark shades were less visible to the fish. The two strains G. arboreum and G. herbeceum were cultivated in Africa and Asia respectively about 4200 years ago. The evidence of its cultivation in India was obtained from the remains of Indus Valley civilization and in the middle th of the 20 century, coloured cotton species Cocanada 1 and 2 were commercially cultivated in Andhra Pradesh and exported to Japan. Kumta in Karnataka was the home for G. herbaceum with dull red lint and the world famous Dacca muslin was made from white and colour linted G. arboreum. However, coloured cotton lint are short and weak and hence amenable only for hand spinning. The yield of colour cotton is low, with no consistency in colour. Thus, the plant breeders are working intensively to produce superior varieties by crossing strains with desirable qualities to make coloured cotton more attractive and machine friendly. A study on Growth Prospects for coloured cotton was conducted by Gokarneshan, N (2003) and reviewed that 0.02 per cent of the land is used for coloured cotton cultivation globally. Some of the measures that have to be adopted in India in order to grow colour cotton commercially are ear marking of non-traditional areas for coloured cotton cultivation in order to prevent mixing and cross pollinations and a necessity of segregating land for coloured cotton cultivation. Finally the author concluded that, as the naturally coloured cotton is available in brown and light green, it has become difficult for them to compete with synthetic dyes that are available in limitless range of colours, and the interest in colour cotton may decline in course of time owing to unpredictable changes in fashion trends.

2.2 Special finishes to improve hand-feel of the natural fibres

Natural fibres like cotton, wool and jute have small fibre ends called fuzz, projected from the surface of yarn and give an unpleasant feel to the fabrics. This problem is intensified with the inherent fibre coarseness that cause prickling sensation. Although some degree of smoothness is rendered by adopting a suitable spinning technique, the fuzzy nature cannot be entirely removed. Softness can however, be brought by chemical softeners but without any significant reduction in fuzz concentration. In cotton, this problem is overcome by treating the fabrics with cellulase enzyme. The enzymatic treatment followed by softener finish enhances smoothness and imparts soft hand-feel, there by increasing the wear, comfort and aesthetic appeal of the fabric. Kundu et.al.,(1996) conducted a research on Biopolishing of jute-cotton union fabric. The results revealed that jute-cotton union fabrics finished with enzyme Biocellulase ZK showed significant improvement in appearance, handle and removal of surface hairs from the fabric and induced improvement in soft feeling. Chattopadhyay, et.al.,(1997) conducted a study on Enzymatic fading of Denim. Here an attempt was to study the effects of two-cellulase enzymes viz., Fadex 500 and Bactasol CA on the colour fading of denim fabric. The results revealed that along with fading softness is also imparted. Of the two enzymes better results were observed with Fadex 500. Gulrajani et. al. (1998) performed a study on Kawabata evaluation of enzyme treated cotton knitted fabric. It was reported that industrial trial of the cellulase treatment on cotton knitted fabric under optimized conditions improved the surface smoothness and hand-feel properties of the fabric.

Gulrajani et.al.,(1998) carried a research on Enzymatic treatment on cotton Knits. The results showed that treatment with cellulase enzyme on one hand improved the softness and wettability where as on the other hand decreased the weight loss. Pai et.al.,(1999) studied on Properties of chemically treated fabrics. It was noticed that cent per cent cotton and blends of 67:33 P/C fabric finished with softener, crease resistant and anti-soiling finish showed improvement in crease recovery properties. Softener treatment enhanced the softness, hand-feel of the all the test samples. Raje et.al.,(2001) carried out a study on Finishing of cotton fabrics with cellulase enzyme. The study was carried to find out the effect of cellulase enzyme on cotton fabric at different concentrations. The result revealed that increase in concentration lead to decrease in cloth stiffness. Kathiervelu (2002) presented a paper on Enzymatic preparatory processes which highlighted on the application of enzymes during different preparatory and finishing processes. Enzymes were popularly used in the preparatory processes like desizing, degumming, carbonizing of wool, bleaching and other complimentary process. But caution to H be taken with P and temperature of the liquor and quality control of the enzymatic activity during storage to obtain maximum enzyme efficiency. A paper on Enzymes in textile wet processing was presented by Verma (2002). The paper gave some preliminary information on properties and uses of enzymes in wet processing of textiles. Chemically enzymes being protein complex are affected by factors like H temperature, P activators like metallic cations inhibitors like some of the alkalies and antiseptics. In textile wet processing enzymes were used in desizing, bio-polishing, scouring, denim washing, dyeing and so on. At the end, the author concluded that, inspite of many advantages, enzymes are still in limited use and hope that in future use of enzymes may increase as they minimize negative environmental effects. Suman and Khambra (2003) conducted a research on Effect of enzyme treatment on physical properties of denim. Here an attempt was made to asses the effect of cellulase enzyme viz., Biodart Acid cellulase on physical properties of cent per cent cotton and blended denims. The study revealed that, there was decrease in thickness, bulkiness and stiffness of fabric samples treated with enzymes. Better crease recovery and air permeability was observed and categorized as lightweight denim. Bhattacharya et.al.,(2004) carried a study on Finishing and simultaneous dyeing of cotton fabric. In this research work, an attempt was made to give wash-n-wear, silicone, flame retardant finish as well as dyeing, to cotton fabric individually and simultaneously. The softness, hand feel, crease recovery angle as well as absorbency and shades were improved by simultaneous wash-n-wear, silicone and dyeing treatment. A report was made on An overview of softening agents for textiles by Malik et.al.,(2004) and the report highlighted on the properties and types of softeners used at industrial level. The main purpose of softener is to improve the desired handle and smoothness of synthetic fabrics. The textile softener need to be non-toxic, sprayable, biodegradable and dermatologically safe. Amphoteric, anionic, cationic and reactive softeners are popularly used as the softening agents in the textile finishes. The author concluded that, textile-softening agents are of great importance in textile finishing and processing to impart better hand and feel. Further these softeners are used to influence the functional properties viz., antistaticity, hydrophilicity, elasticity, sewability and abrasion resistance. A study on Bio-softening to improve hand values of cellulosic fabrics was conducted by Thilagavathi, et.al.,(2005). The results showed that enzyme treatment improved the hand values of cotton fabric in terms of the softness, smoothness and stiffness. It is evident from the study that bio-finishing process improved the overall hand value of the fabric.

2.3 Special finishes to improve physical properties of cotton and its blended fabrics

2.3.1 Mechanical properties

The physical parameters have greater influence and play an important role in determining the quality of the fabric. The physical and mechanical properties are assessed to determine the appearance, performance and serviceability of the fabric. The test samples were assessed for yarn count, yarn twist, cloth count, mass per unit area, cloth thickness, cloth stiffness, cloth crease recovery and dimensional stability. Cited below are few of the relevant studies conducted to determine the mechanical properties of the fabric. A study on Cross-Linking of cotton cellulose with triazone and DMDHEU was performed by Pandey and Nair (1988). The results showed that cotton samples treated with DMDHEU showed improvement in crease recovery than the samples treated with Traizone by conventional method. Shenai and Desai (1991) conducted a study on Resin finishing of cotton fabric with Urea Formal dehyde pre-condensate using Alkanolamine-phosphoric Acid salt catalyst. It was noticed that resin finished cotton fabrics with varied catalysts and concentrations showed increase in crease recovery angles. Among the different catalysts used diethanolaminephosphoric acid salt is the effective catalyst and 75 gpl of resin is the most appropriate concentration with maximum improvement in crease recovery angles. Singh and Singh (1992) performed a study on Finishing of cotton with acryl amide and DMDHEU combination finish. The result of the study showed that cotton fabric finished with acryl amide and DMDHEU at 10 per cent showed higher wrinkle recovery angle and stiffness compared to control. Finishing cotton and cotton wool blend fabrics was the study performed by Singh and Chaulkar (1992). Test samples were finished with acryl amide monomer along with formaldehyde at different concentrations. The results revealed that the behaviour of the finish was similar in cent per cent as well as blended cotton fabrics but at lower concentration there was improvement in wrinkle recovery. Due to presence of acryl amide monomer, being thermoplastic in nature gave better appearance. A study was carried out by Chattopadhyay et.al.,(1997) on Studies on the Enzymatic fading of Denim. Here an attempt was made to study the effects of two-cellulase enzymes viz., Fadex 500 and Bactasol CA on the colour fading of denim fabric. The results revealed that along with fading crease recovery property also improved. Gulrajani et.al.,(1998) performed a study on Kawabata evaluation of enzyme treated cotton knitted fabric. The results revealed that, enzymatic treatment improved the surface smoothness and decreased their stiffness and rigidity. A study on Wrinkle free Technology for shirting materials was done by Felix Robers (2000). The study focused on the two basic methods of Wrinkle-Free Technology for cottons i.e. Pre-curing and post curing. The pre curing finish is applied at fabric stage and in post curing for the ready garment (i.e. after cutting, sewing and pressing). Edward (2001) reported on Permanent press/ wrinkle free finish. It was revealed that the finish may be applied to cottons either by pad or exhaust method. Where, in latter case, the garment was machine washed, followed by tumble drying, hot pressing and curing. In pad application the garment was cured first and then hot pressed. The garments subjected to wrinkle-free finish maintained the desired crease after repeated use and several washings with good dimensional stability. Raje et.al.,(2001) performed a study on Finishing of cotton fabrics with cellulase enzyme. Here an attempt was made to study the effect of cellulase enzyme on cotton fabric at different concentrations. From the results it was clear that increase in concentration lead to greater weight loss and reduction in cloth bending length of the fabric. A research on Effect of enzyme treatment on physical properties of denim. was conducted by Suman and Khambra (2003). Here physical properties of cent per cent cotton

and blended denims finished with cellulase enzyme viz., Biodart Acid cellulase was studied. The results revealed that there was decrease in thickness, bulkiness and stiffness in fabric samples treated with enzymes better crease recovery was observed in light weight denim. A study on Finishing and simultaneous dyeing of cotton fabric was conducted by Bhattacharya and Patel (2004). In present work an attempt was made to assess the effect of wash-n-wear, silicones, flame retardant finishing and dyeing of cotton fabric individually and simultaneously. In simultaneous dyeing and wash-n-wear finishing the crease recovery angle increased compared to individual method. The absorbency, shade, crease recovery angle and flame retardency were improved in simultaneous wash-n-wear, silicones and dying treatment.

2.3.2 Functional properties

Cloth tensile strength, cloth tear strength, cloth abrasion resistance, cloth drapability and cloth pilling are the functional properties that help to assess the durability and serviceability of any fabric. Some of the studies carried out on functional properties are presented under: Pandey and Nair (1988) carried out a study on Cross-linking of cotton cellulose with traizone and DMDHEU. It was concluded that samples treated with DMDHEU showed several folds higher improvement in abrasion resistance and better strength retention when compared to samples treated with triazone. From these results it may be informed that DMDHEU can be used for resin finishing of cotton textiles that add advantage over the conventional method with Triazone. Shenai and Desai (1991) conducted a study on Resin finishing of cotton fabric with Urea-Formaldehyde precondensate using Alkanolamine- phosphoric Acid salt catalyst. It was noticed that resin finished cotton fabrics with varied catalysts and concentration showed increase in crease recovery angles with minimum loss in tensile strength. A research on Finishing of cotton with acrylamide and DMDHEU combination finish was conducted by Singh and Singh (1992). The results revealed that cotton fabric finished with acrylamide and DMDHEU at 10 per cent showed higher, breaking strength and elongation compared to control. Singh and Chaulkar (1992) carried out a study on Finishing of cotton and cotton-wool blend fabrics the results revealed that wool-cotton blended cotton finished with acrylamide monomer along with formaldehyde at different concentrations showed similar behavior for cent per cent cotton and blended cottons, but at lower concentrations there was better improvement in strength retention in case of cent per cent cotton. A study on Kawabata evaluation of enzyme treated cotton knitted fabric was preformed by Gulrajani et.al.,(1998). Form the results it is clear that industrial trial of the cellulase enzyme treatment under optimized conditions showed decrease in tensile strength and compressional energies. A study on properties of chemically treated fabric was performed by Pai et.al.,(1999). The results of the study concluded that cent per cent cotton and blends of 67:33 P/C fabric finished with softener treatment enhance abrasion resistance and tensile strength. A study was conducted by Raje et.al.,(2001) on Finishing of cotton fabrics with cellulase enzyme. The study was conducted to know the effect of cellulase enzyme on cotton fabric at different concentration. From the result it is clear that increase in concentration lead to decrease in tensile strength.

III. MATERIAL AND METHODS

The present research on Special finishes to improve resiliency and hand-feel of the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric was carried out at the Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agriculture Sciences, Dharwad during the year 2003-2005. The material and methods and techniques adopted in the study are presented under the following headings: 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.3.1 3.3.2 3.3.3 3.4 3.4.1 3.4.1.1 3.4.1.2 3.4.1.3 3.4.1.4 3.4.1.5 3.4.1.6 3.4.1.7 3.4.2 3.4.2.1 3.4.2.2 3.4.2.3 3.4.2.4 3.4.2.5 3.4.2.6 3.5 3.5.1 3.5.2 3.6 3.7 Selection of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric Selection of the special finishes Treating the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric with selected special finishes Crease resistant finish Enzymatic finish Softener finish Assessment of physical properties of test samples Assessment of mechanical properties Yarn count (Ne) Cloth count (Numerical expression) Mass per unit area (g) Cloth thickness (mm) Cloth crease recovery (degree) Cloth stiffness (cm) Cloth dimensional stability (%) Assessment of functional properties of test samples Cloth elongation (%) Cloth tensile strength (kgf) Cloth tear strength (g) Cloth abrasion resistance (cycles) Cloth drapability (%) Cloth pilling (rating) Variables included in the research Independent variables Dependent variables Statistical analysis. Hypothesis set for the study

3.1 Selection of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric

The naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric of brown variety DDCC-1, Gossypium arboreum was procured from Khadi Nekar Sahakari Sangh, Niyamita, Uppin Betageri, Dharwad district. Criteria for the selection of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric: The variety DDCC-1 is been released for commercial cultivation. The Khadi Nekar Sahakari Sangh of Uppin Betagiri has taken production of khadi fabric of DDCC-1. This naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric though eco-friendly is relatively coarser in texture. The khadi fabric being cellulose is vulnerable to crease and wrinkles.

3.2 Selection of special finishes

The special finishes are given in order to improve the natural properties, attractiveness and serviceability of the fabric, hence termed as special finishes.

Cotton being cellulosic in nature is more prone to creases and winkles, which could be improved by application of heat, pressure and special finishing agent, since these unwanted folds destroy the beauty of the fabric and the garment. It is also true that, shorter staple fibres produce coarser yarns that inturn results into coarser fabrics. In order to overcome all these short comings the naturally coloured cotton fabric need to be finished with special finishes like crease resistant finish, enzymatic finish and softener finish.

3.3 Treating the naturally coloured cotton fabric with selected special finishes
3.3.1 Crease resistant finish
The test sample was subjected for crease resistant finish, where this special finish was adopted as per the standard method followed commercially at mill/ factory level by treating the fabric for 10 minutes and 20 minutes, which were commercially called as medium and heavy wash respectively. Material weight Recipe MLR Ciba KNITTEX FEL Ciba Sapamin KL New Ciba Ultratex PES Acetic acid Treatment time Drying temperature Method The crease resistant finish was given to the fabric samples weighing 300 g by treating with a mixture of 10g of each Ciba KNITTEX FEL, Ciba Sapamin KL new and Ciba Ultratex PES for 10 and 20 minutes separately at 55C. The pH was maintained at 5.5 by adding 35g of acetic acid. Further, the treated fabric was dried below 1200 C and cured at 0 150 C for 5 minutes. : 1:10 : 10g : 10g : 10g : 35 g : 10 and 20 minutes each 0 : below 120 C : 300g

3.3.2 Enzymatic finish

In enzymatic finish the test sample was treated as per the recipe mentioned below, separately at 30 minutes and 60 minutes. These enzyme treated samples were finally treated with cationic softer for 10 minutes. Material weight : 300gm Recipe MLR : 1:10 Ciba Tinogym 50p : 20g Acetic acid : 35 g Treatment time : 30 and 60 minutes each Alkamine CWS (Softner) : 300g Treatment time : 10 min Drying temperature : 500C Method The colour linted cotton khadi fabric sample was treated with 20g of Ciba Tinogym 50p and 35g of acetic acid to maintain the pH at 5.5 for 30 minutes and 60 minutes each, separately. At the end, enzyme finished samples were treated with cationic softener Alkamine CWS for 10 minutes in order to improve physical and functional properties, effected by the enzyme treatment and dried at 50 C.

3.3.3 Softener finish

The test sample was subjected for softener finish with two softeners viz., silicone and cationic softeners Ciba Ultraphil DCW and Ciba alkamine CWS respectively for 30 minutes as per the recipe. Material weight Recipe MLR : 1:10 Softener (Cation/Silicone) : each 300g Silica : 50g Treatment time : 30 min Temperature : 40 C Drying temperature : 120 C Method The fabric samples were treated for 30 minutes with 300g of softener i.e. cationic softener Ciba Alkamine CWS and Silicons softener Ciba ultraphil DCW separately along with 50g of silica to maintain the pH at 6.0 further dried below 120C (Plates 1-3). : 300g

3.4 Assessment of physical properties of test samples

The treated samples were subjected to physical testing to determine the quality parameters of the yarn which inturn affect the quality of fabric. The assessment of yarn parameters was done in the testing laboratory, Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, UAS, Dharwad.

3.4.1 Assessment of mechanical properties

The mechanical properties of any woven fabric are the features that provide basic texture, hand-feel and dimensions to the fabric which inturn determine the functional properties of the fabric. In the present study the mechanical properties of Naturally Coloured Cotton Khadi fabric was assessed before and after applying special finishes at the Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science and Demonstration-cum-Technical Service Centre, Central Silk Board, Rayapur, Dharwad.

3.4.1.1 Yarn count (Ne)

The yarn count is a numerical expression, which defines its fineness. Indirect yarn numbering system is used to express the yarn number of spun yarns i.e., cotton count, which is defined as number of hanks of 840 yards weighing one pound. The fabric is cut into a size of 5.5 cm (half cotton count) and 11 X 11 cm (full cotton count) using the template. The size of the fabric samples indicates the length of the specimen to be taken for testing. The warp and weft yarns were drawn separately from the fabric, weighed and cotton count was calculated. Number of specimen tested : 10 each warp and weft Type of material sampled : yarn drawn from woven cloth Name of the instrument : Besleys balance

3.4.1.2 Cloth count (Numerical expression)

Cloth count of the fabric is the number of warp yarns (ends) and filling yarns (picks) per unit area, while the fabric is held under no tension and is free from folds and wrinkles. The number of ends and picks per unit area determined by using a suitable magnifying pick glass. The number of warp and weft yarns in one square inch of the fabric is counted at ten randomly selected places across the width and along the length of the test samples, so that a

Plate 1: Garment processor (Used for application of special finish)

Plate 2: Hydro machine (Used to extract excess finishing solution after application of finish)

Plate 3: Drier ( Used for drying samples after finishing)

different set is counted each time. Further, the mean values of ends and picks per inch were calculated. Number of specimen tested :10 each warp and weft Method : Direct counting, threads per unit area (1 inch) Device used : Magnifying counting device, the pick glass.

3.4.1.3 Mass per unit area (g)

Cloth weight is expressed as mass per unit area in g/sq mt. A sample of 5X5 cm is cut and weighed on electronic weighing balance to determine the weight per square meter (g). Further warp and weft threads are separated and weighed to calculate respective percentages. The percentage composition of warp and weft is calculated as follows: Weight of 5X5cm sample Weight of warp yarns : yg Weight of weft yarns : zg The per cent warp Per cent weft : xg

= X Y x 100 X

= X Z x 100 X Number of samples tested : 5 samples Instrument : Electronic balance

3.4.1.4 Cloth thickness (mm)

Thickness is the distance between one surface to its opposite in textiles, the distance between the upper and lower surface of the material, measured under a specified pressure. The specimens were tested as directed in ASTM test method D. 1777 1975. The average thickness of the material is determined by observing the linear distance that a movable plane is displaced from a parallel surface by the textile material while under a specified pressure. The specimen chosen were free from folds, crushings or distortions i.e. abnormal to test material. Placed the specimen on the anvil of the test apparatus and bring the pressure foot into contact with the opposite side of the material and record the thickness in mm. Shape of the anvil Area of the anvil Shape of the presser foot Number of specimen tested Name of the instrument : Round : 1 cm diameter : Round : 15 : Shirleys thickness tester

3.4.1.5 Cloth crease recovery angle (degree)

This method determines the crease recovery of the test samples. The specimen were tested as directed in AATCC test method 66-1975. The test specimen is creased for a definite period of time at a known load and then allowed to recover or to regain its crease. The recovery is measured in terms of the extent of angle to which it has been recovered.

Size of the test sample : 5 x 2.5 cm Weight/load applied : 2 kg Creasing period : 5 mins Recovery period : 5 mins No. of test sample tested : 5 each warp and weft Name of the instrument : Crease recovery tester Further, cloth crease recovery is determined by using the formula Cloth crease recovery = warp-way angle x weft-way angle

3.4.1.6 Cloth stiffness (cm)

Cloth stiffness is the resistance of the fabric to bending. Bending length is the length of the fabric that bends under its own weight to a definite extent. It equals to half the length of rectangular strip of fabric that bends under its own weight to an angle of 41.50. It is also equal to the length of a rectangular strip of material that bends under its own weight to an angle of 7.10. Bending length is expressed in centimeters. This quantity is one of the factors that determine the manner in which fabric drapes i.e. the cloth having high bending path tends to drape stiffly. The test samples were tested as directed in BS test methods: 3356-1961. Placed the test sample on the plat form with the scale on the top of it lengthwise that the zero of scale coinciding with the leading edge of the test sample. Pushed the sample along with the scale slowly and steadily when the leading edge projects beyond the edge of the platform. The increased part of the sample overhangs and starts bending on its own weight. When two inclined lines (inclined plane making an angle of 41.5 with the horizontal) of the tester coincide, the length of the over hanging portion from the scale was recorded. Four reading from each sample with each side up were taken. Size of the test sample : 25 X 2.5cms Number of samples tested : one with four readings [both warp-way and weft way] Name of the instrument : Shirleys stiffness tester. Further, the bending length was calculated by using formula: Bending length = L/2 cm Where L is the mean length of the over hanging portion in cm.

3.4.1.7 Cloth dimensional stability (%)

Dimensional change is measured in terms of shrinkage percentage. Fabric sample of 20 x 20 sq cm was taken and initial length of 15 cm was marked both in warp and weft directions. The fabric sample was then soaked in soap solution of 2 gpl at room temperature for 1 hour. The sample was then thoroughly rinsed in cold water and shade dried, flat. Finally the dried samples were carefully, ironed without stretching or distorting the alignment of ends and picks. The final distance was measured and change in the dimension was expressed in terms of percentage using formula, S = L0 La X 100 L0 Where, L0 La Size of the sample Number readings : Initial length : Final length : 20 X 20 cm : 5 each warp and weft.

3.4.2 Assessment of functional properties of test samples

Any fabric applied with special finish is expected to improve its serviceability and meet the expectations of the consumer in terms of comfort, absorbency, durability, easy care and maintenance and additional special quality incorporated which may not be its inherent property, satisfactorily i.e. the money spent on clothes is worth when it serves the purpose and gives maximum satisfaction to the consumer. Of the several functional properties, durability is the most important one that depends on the constructional parameters of the cloth. Following are the most important functional parameters assessed for the durability of the test samples.

3.4.2.2 Cloth tensile strength (kgf)

Tensile strength is the ability of the material to resist or rupture induced by external force. It is expressed as force/unit cross-sectional area of the specimen at the time of maximum load. The specimens were tested as directed in IS test method: 12676 1989. The method employed to determine the breaking load of the material is by using the ravelled strip test. The specimen is 5 cm wide piece of fabric prepared by initially cutting the material to a width of about 7 cm and ravelled the threads from both sides until the width attained 5 cm. The test length is 20 cms in between the jaws and extra length was taken to grip the sample within the jaws. Size of the test sample No. of sample tested Test method Gauge length Load range Extension range Rate of traverse Name of the instrument : 20X5cm : 10 : Ravelled strip test : 20 cm : 200 kgf : 30 cm : 50 cm : Hounsfield universal testing machine.

3.4.2.3 Cloth tear strength (g)

Cloth tear strength is the force required to tear the fabric. It is the average force required to continue a tear previously initiated in a fabric by twice the length of tear. The sample was tested as directed in IS test method 6489-1971. This method covers the procedure to determine the average force required to propagate a single-rip tongue type tear, starting from a cut in a fabric by means of Elemendorf tear tester. The average force required to continue a tongue type tear in a fabric is determined by measuring the work done in tearing it through a fixed distance. The tester consisted of a sector-shaped pendulum carrying a clamp, which is in alignment with a fixed clamp. When the pendulum is in the raised starting position with maximum potential energy, the sample is mounted in the clamps and the tear is initiated by a slit in the sample between the clamps. The pendulum is then released and the specimen is torn as the moving jaw swings away from the fixed one. The scale attached to the pendulum is so graduated as to read directly the tearing force in grams. The selected capacity of apparatus is such that the specimen shall tear between 20 and 60 per cent of the scale value. The falling pendulum (Elemendorf) type tester has three capacities ranging from 0 to 1600g, 0 to 3200g and 0 to 6400g and a scale reading directly in hectogram (100g unit) for each capacity, so as to provide for a wide range of fabrics convenience in reading results.

The cutting die provide the basic rectangular test specimen 100 2 mm long by 63 0.15 mm wide along with additional fabric at the top edge of the specimen to ensure the last yarns being torn during the test by preventing or minimizing their ravelling. The critical dimension of the test specimen is a distance of 43 0.15 mm, which is torn during the test. The improved die model has two new structures namely a cut out for the bottom of the specimen to aid in centering it in the clamps and provision for cutting the 20.0mm slit (the initial cut) prior to inserting the specimen in the clamps. Size of the specimen Critical length of the test specimen Number of specimen tested Tearing force Name of the instrument : 10 cm long X 7.5 cm wide : 4.5 cm : 5 each, warp and weft : 3.200g. : Elemendorf tear tester.

Further, tear strength (g) is calculated by using formula, Mean tearing strength (g) = K X mean value of scale reading, Where the value of K is, 16 = without any augmenting weight. 32 = with augmenting weight for 3200g. 64 = with both augmenting weights.

3.4.2.4 Cloth abrasion resistance (cycles)

Cloth abrasion is the wearing away of any part of material by rubbing against another surface. The specimen is abraded by rubbing multidirectionally against an abradant having specified surface characteristics held in a fixed position without any crease. The pills of matted fibres interfering with proper contact between the specimen and abradant during test were removed, as they would cause marked vibration of the abradant plate. The specimen was abraded until a hole was formed and the number of cycles to create a hole were noted. Further, the estimation of degree of wear is determined by loss in mass as well as thickness of the fabric. Size of the specimen Number of the specimen tested Type of abradant Type of abrasion Determination of end point Name of the instrument : 13.5 cm diameter :4 : Silicone carbide waterproof paper, 180F : Multidirectional : Formation of hole : Martindale abrasion tester.

3.4.2.5 Cloth drapability (%)

Drape is one of the subjective characteristics of the fabric that contributes to aesthetic appearance. Fabric drape may be explained as the extent to which a fabric deforms when it is allowed to hang under its own weight. Drape co-efficient is the area covered by the shadow of the draped specimen expressed as percentages of the area of the annular ring of the fabric. A specimen is cut by means of a circular template (size) which is sand witched between two horizontal discs of smaller diameter (size) and the unsupported annual ring of fabric is allowed to hang down. On switching the lamp, it gives a circular parallel beam of light and falls on the cloth. Place the ammonia sheet (printing paper) of known dimension (size) on the base plate absolutely flat with sensitive side up. The line of vision was kept along the baseboard and the height of the lower fringe of specimen was adjusted, so that it was about 2 inches above the ammonia paper. Time setting knob was adjusted to 4 min. After fixing the speed time the green pilot lamp lits up, and the buzzer alarm rings, then the ammonia paper

is removed, rolled and placed in the developing box where strong ammonia solution was kept. The lid was shut airtight and after 4 minutes the drape pattern was ready for assessing. Further, drape co-efficient is calculated applying the formula: F = AS- Ad AD Ad Where, AD : Area of speciman (25 cm diameter) Ad : Area of supporting disc AC : Actual projected area of specimen Size of the specimen : 25 cm diameter Size of the printing paper : 29X29 cm Name of the instrument : ATC drape meter.

3.4.2.6 Cloth pilling (Rating)

Pills are the balls or bunches of tangled fibres that are held on to the surface of a fabric by one or more fibres. Pilling resistance is the resistance to form pills on a textile fabric. This method covers the determination of resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on textile fabrics. The specimen were tested as directed in IS test method : 10971-1984 The fabric sample measuring 5X5sq inch was sewn so as to fit firmly when placed around a rubber tube of 5 inch length, 1 inch outside and 1/8 inch thick, which was then rotated for 5 hours to complete 18,000 revolutions at the rate of 60 revolutions/min. After tumbling, the extent of pilling was assessed visually by comparing with the arbitrary standards 1,2,3,4 and 5. Rating Scale 1 No pilling 2 Slight pilling 3 Moderate pilling 4 severe pilling 5 Very sever pilling Size of the specimen : 12.5 X 12.5 sq inch Number of the speciman tested : 5 Name of the instrument : ATC Pilling tester

3.5 Variables included for the study

3.5.1 Independent Variables
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Yarn count (Ne) Cloth count (Numerical expression) Mass per unit area (g) Cloth thickness (mm) Cloth bending length (cm) Cloth crease recovery angle (degree) Cloth dimensional stability (%)

3.5.2 Dependent variables

1. 2. 3. 4. Cloth elongation (%) Cloth tensile strength (kgf) Cloth tear strength (g) Cloth abrasion resistance (cycles)

5. Cloth drapability (%) 6. Cloth pilling (ratings)

3.6 Statistical analysis

The data was analyzed by using frequency table and percentages were calculated. The statistical analysis was done by using completely randomized design (one way ANOVA). Further, co-efficient of determination (R2) was calculated to know the effect of mechanical properties on functional properties using the formula, R2 = Sum of squares due to multiple regression Total sum of squares To know the individual effect of all the independent variables of the physical parameters on the corresponding dependent variable, multiple regression was carried out using the formula, Y = a+b1x1+b2x2+.bnxn+Eij i = 1..n and j = 1n Where Eij are the error independently normally distributed with mean 0 and common variance. x1.x2xn = Independent variable b1.b2 bn = Regression co-efficient

3.7 Hypothesis set for the study

The following were the hypothesis set for the study, There is no effect of cloth stiffness on crease recovery angle. There is no effect of cloth bending length on drapability.

IV. RESULTS
The results of the present study on Special finishes to improve resiliency and handfeel of the naturally coloured cotton Khadi fabric are presented under the following headings: 4.1 4.1.1 4.1.2 4.2 4.2.1 4.2.2 4.3 4.3.1 4.3.2 Physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with crease resistant finish Mechanical properties Functional properties Physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with enzyme finish. Mechanical properties Functional properties Physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with softener finish Mechanical properties Functional properties

4.1 Physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with crease resistant finish
4.1.1 Mechanical properties 4.1.1.1 Yarn count (Ne)
From Table 1 it is clear that, compared to control, crease resistant finish enhanced the warp-way yarn count by 4.76 per cent (22s) and 9.52 per cent (23s) for treatment time 10 minutes and 20 minutes respectively. Where as, the weft-way yarn count of crease resistant treated samples for 10 minutes remained unchanged (25s) but increased slightly (26s, 4.00%) with increase in treatment time i.e. 20 minutes compared to control i.e. 25s. Table 1: Effect of crease resistant finish on yarn count (Ne) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -10 20 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp Weft SEm Standard Error of mean CD Critical Difference CV Coefficient of Variation SEm 0.64 0.70 CD 1% 2.75 3.01 5% 1.96 2.14 CV (%) 6.50 6.24 Yarn Count (Ne) Warp Weft 21 25 22 25 (4.76) (0.00) 23 26 (9.52) (4.00)

The CRD test presented indicated that the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with crease resistant finish at 20 minutes treatment time showed significant increase in the wrap and weft yarn court at 5 per cent level. Whereas, test samples with crease resistant finish at 10 minutes treatment showed slight increase in warp yarn count and weft yarn count, which was found to be nonsignificant compared to control.

4.1.1.2 Cloth count (Numerical expression)

Cloth count in woven textile is the number of ends and picks per unit area and is determined by the yarn count and compactness of the weave. From Table 2 (Fig. 1) it is learnt that, warp and weft density of treated samples increased. The warp way cloth density is increased by 4.76 per cent (44) and 9.52 per cent (46) when treated for 10minutesand 20minutesrespectively compared to control (42); similarly weft-way yarn count showed greater picks per unit area 3.33 per cent (31) and 10.00 per cent (33) when compared to control (30) for 10 minutes and 20 minutes treatment time. The simple CRD test indicated that no significant increase in warp-way and weft-way cloth count was observed in crease resistant finished samples with treatment time 10 minutes. On the other hand, 20 minutes treated samples showed significant increase in both warp-way and weft-way cloth count at 1 per cent level of significance corresponding to its control. Table 2: Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth count (Numerical expression) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -10 20 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way SEm 0.88 0.70 CD 1% 3.78 3.01 5% 2.70 2.14 CV (%) 4.50 5.04 Cloth Count (Numerical expression) Warp-way Weft-way 42 30 44 31 (4.76) (3.33) 46 33 (9.52) (10.00)

4.1.1.3 Mass per unit area (g)

The weight of the fabric depends on the yarn twist, yarn type, threads per inch, method of construction, mechanical finish and deposition of finishing material on the fabric surface. From Table 3 it is learnt that, naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics treated with crease resistant finish showed greater weight (13.16g, 0.53% and 13.73g, 4.88%) compared to control (13.09g). Further it is evident from this table that warp percentages are also increased by 2.10 per cent (61.60) and 2.20 per cent (61.66) for treatment time 10 minutes and 20 minutes respectively compared to control i.e. 61.03 per cent. Whereas, weft percentages showed descending values. Maximum weft per cent (39.67) is noticed at control where fabrics with crease resistant treatment showed decrease in the values by 3.20 per cent (38.40) and 3.45 per cent (38.30) for 10 minutes and 20 minutes treatment time, respectively. The simple one-way ANOVA test indicated that, there was significant increase in the cloth weight of fabrics when treated for 10 minutes and 20 minutes at 1 per cent level was compared to control.

4.1.1.4 Cloth thickness (mm)

It is generally expected that thicker the fabric, longer it takes to wear. Thick fabrics, however are not always convenient because of their bulkiness and stiffness. Table 4 illustrates the values of cloth thickness of test samples treated with crease resistant finish.

50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 Warp
Direction

Control Crease resistant finish (10 minutes) Crease resistant finish (20 minutes)

Cloth count (Numerical expression)

Weft

Fig. 1. Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth count (Numerical expression)

Fig.1. Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth (Numerical expression)

It is observed from this table that the test samples with 10 minutes treatment time showed decrease in thickness of 1.43 per cent (0.69 mm), whereas the thickness increased by 8.57 per cent (0.76 mm) compared to control (0.70 mm). Table 3: Effect of crease resistant finish on mass per unit area (g) Sl. No. 1. 2. Treatment time (Min) -10 20 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Total weight SEm 0.087 CD 1% 0.37 5% 0.26 CV (%) 1.46 Total weight (g/sq.mt.) 13.09 13.16 (0.53) 13.73 (4.88) Direction Warp-way Weft-way (%) (%) 61.03 38.97 61.60 34.40 (2.10) (-3.20) 61.66 38.34 (2.20) (-3.45)

Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics

The simple CRD test indicated that sample treated with crease resistant finish at treatment time 10 minutes showed slight decrease in thickness while increase in thickness was noticed when samples treated for 20 minutes treatment time but both the values were found to be non-significant.

4.1.1.5 Cloth bending length (cm)

The bending length is the property of the fabric that depends on the energy required to produce a given bending deformation under its own weight. The stiffness of a fabric is defined as its resistance to bending. The constructional features affecting the stiffness of a cloth is mainly its nature of the fibre, yarn type, compactness of weave, weight and thickness. Fabrics made from fibres that have a high resistance to extension such as cellulose tend to be stiffer than fabrics made from protein fibres, which can be easily extended. Plain-woven fabrics have better resistance than fabrics with longer floats. Table 4: Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth thickness (mm)

Sl. No. 1. 2.

Sample

Treatment time (Min)

Thickness (mm)

Control Crease resistant finished fabrics

-10 20

0.70 0.69 (-1.43) 0.76 (8.57)

Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Cloth thickness SEm 0.024 CD 1% 0.1 5% 0.07 CV (%) 7.60

Table 5: Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth bending length (cm) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -10 20 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way Sem 0.040 0.056 CD 1% 0.17 0.24 5% 0.122 0.17 CV (%) 3.36 4.90 Bending length (cm) Warp-way Weft-way 2.68 2.50 2.69 2.56 (0.37) (2.40) 2.75 2.68 (2.61) (7.20)

Table 5 depicts the bending length of warp-way and weft-way samples. The warpway bending path is noticed to be higher by 0.37 per cent (2.69 cm) and 2.61 per cent (2.75 cm) for treatment time 10 and 20 minutes, respectively compared to control values (2.68 cm). A trend of similar results are observed in the weft-way bending length. Higher bending length is observed in naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with crease resistant finish (2.68 cm; 7.20 per cent) treated for 20 minutes followed by 2.56 cm (2.40 %) with treatment time of 10 minutes compared to control i.e., 2.50 cm. The CRD test presented indicated that, there was no significant increase in the warpway bending path of the samples with crease resistant finish for 10 minutes treatment time, but 20 minutes treated samples showed slight increase in warp bending length. However there was significant increase in weft bending path at 5 per cent level.

4.1.1.6 Cloth crease recovery angle (degree)

The crease resistance is that property of the fabric, which causes the fabric to recover from folding deformation that normally occur during its use. The recovery depends on time, varying for different fabrics from an instantaneous recovery to slow disappearance of the creases. All textile fabrics used in clothing must be flexible and capable of being creased and folded to conform to the figure and be comfortable to the wearer. Crease and its resistance can be explained on molecular theory, where the cross links that break within the molecules and reform a new position and there will be no recovery on removal of the load. Alternatively, the cross-links may be strained without breaking and show a recovery on deloading. Cellulose materials are highly prone to creasing. The feature more accepted in fabric is, it can be deformed but need to recover rapidly from the deformation. There must be resilience, which includes some resistance to creasing, but also a powerful and quick recovery. Among the commonly used textile materials the order of diminishing crease resistance is wool, silk, viscose rayon, cotton and flax.

Table 6 narrates on the crease recovery angle of the test samples. In general weftway recovery was found to be higher than warp-way. The samples with crease resistant finish treated for 10 minutes and 20 minutes showed gradual increase in warp recovery i.e., 100.50 and 107.25 respectively compared to its corresponding control (95.25), so also there was increase in weft-way crease recovery angles i.e. 107 (2.88%) and 113 (8.65%) for treatment time 10 minutes and 20 minutes. Table 6: Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth crease recovery angle (degree) Sl. No. 1. 2. Treatment time (Min) -10 20 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way Cloth recovery Sem 0.52 0.52 0.37 CD 1% 2.23 2.23 1.59 5% 1.59 1.59 1.13 CV (%) 1.17 1.08 0.79 Crease recovery angle (degree) Warp-way 95.25 100.50 (5.51) 107.25 (12.59) Weft-way 104.00 107.00 (2.88) 113.00 (8.65) Cloth recovery (%) 99.53 103.69 (4.18) 110.08 (10.59)

Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics

A trend of increasing values were observed in cloth creased recovery per cent when samples were treated with crease resistant finish. The recovery per cent (99.53%) was lowest at control. The one way ANOVA indicated that the both samples treated with crease resistant finish at 10minutesand 20minutesshowed significant increase in warp-way and weft-way crease recovery at 1 per cent level and also its corresponding cloth crease recovery.

4.1.1.7 Cloth dimensional stability (%)

Table 7 shows the effect of crease resistant treatment on the dimensions of naturally colour linted cotton khadi samples. The per cent shrinkage of the treated sample is found to be lower than their control. There was absolutely no change in the warp-way dimensions on finishing (3.17%). However change in weft-way dimension was observed i.e., 0.56 per cent for 10 minutes and 0.41 per cent for 20 minutes treatment time whereas, control value was 0.89 per cent. In general it may be stated that on application of crease resistant finish the samples showed no change in warp-way dimension with slight change in weft way. The simple CRD test indicated that there was slight shrinkage in samples treated with crease resistant finish at 10 minutes and 20 minutes in weft direction, which was found to be non-significant, compared to its control.

4.1.2 Functional properties 4.1.2.1 Cloth elongation (%)

Table 8 depicts the elongation per cent of test samples. In general, the warp-way elongation was higher than weft-way. However, there was decrease in the warp-way elongation with increase in treatment time (15.38%, 10 min and 15.13%, 20 min) compared to control (16.07%). Table 7: Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth dimensional stability (%) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics Particulars Warp-way Weft-way Treatment time (Min) -10 20 Cloth shrinkage (%) Warp-way Weft-way 3.17 0.89 0.00 0.56 0.00 0.41 CD 1% 0.98 0.81 5% 0.70 0.58 CV (%) 36.49 61.39

SEm 0.23 0.19

Table 8: Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth elongation (%) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics Particulars Warp-way Weft-way Treatment time (Min) -10 20 Cloth elongation (%) Warp-way Weft-way 16.07 9.13 15.38 8.86 15.13 8.52 CD 1% 2.32 1.46 5% 1.65 1.04 CV (%) 7.85 8.69

SEm 0.54 0.34

Similarly a descending trend of cloth elongation (%) was found in weft direction (8.86% for 10min and 8.52% for 20min) of treated samples compared to its control, 9.13 per cent. The simple CRD test indicated that there was meager decrease in elongation percent in warp and weft direction of samples treated at 10 minutes and 20 minutes, which were found to be non-significant.

4.1.2.2 Cloth tensile strength (kgf)

Table 9 reflects on tensile strength of control and sample treated with crease resistant finish. Among all the test samples greater tensile strength in warp-way observed at control (36.62 kgf). Whereas, samples with crease resistant finish showed reduction in warp-way tensile strength by 1.78 per cent (35.98kgf) and 4.24 per cent (35.13kgf) for 10 minutes and 20 minutes, respectively. Similar trend of results were observed in weft-way tensile strength i.e. the values were greater at control 26.46 kgf and gradually decreased by 3.72 per cent for 10 minutes (25.51kgf) and 7.65 per cent (24.51kgf) for 20 minutes treatment time when applied with crease resistant finish. From simple CRD test it is clear that, there is a slight decrease in the tensile strength of the crease resistant finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric at 10 minutes and 20 minutes and was found to be non-significant.

4.1.2.3 Cloth tear strength (g)

It is evident from Table 10 that the control sample showed greater tear strength than the treated samples i.e., on treatment with crease resisting agents, the fabric showed decrease in warp-way tear strength, 0.25 per cent (2713g) and 0.58 per cent (2704g) when treated for 10 minutes and 20 minutes respectively, compared to control (2720g). The weftway tensile strength in treated samples also showed s trend of decrease in values. Table 9: Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth tensile strength (kgf) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -10 20 Figures and parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way SEm 1.86 1.53 CD 1% 7.99 6.57 5% 5.71 4.69 CV (%) 11.57 13.13 Cloth tensile strength (kgf) Warp-way Weft-way 36.62 26.46 35.98 25.51 (-1.78) (-3.72) 35.13 24.58 (-4.24) (-7.65)

However, per cent loss in tear strength was more in weft direction (0.32%, 10 min 0.58%, 20 min) than warp (0.25%, 10 min and 0.58%, 20 min) on application of crease resistant finish. The simple CRD test indicated that decrease in tear strength was observed in all the test samples treated with crease resistant finish both in warp and weft direction however this decrease was found to be non-significant.

4.1.2.4 Cloth abrasion resistance (cycles)

Table 11 reveals about cloth abrasion resistance of the selected naturally colour linted khadi samples. Higher resistance to abrasion (267 cycles) was observed at control (267 cycles) followed by 243 cycles and 219 cycles for the samples treated at 10 minutes and 20 minutes respectively. Further, it is noticed that loss in thickness (%) of abraded samples was found greater when resin (crease resistant agent) treated (17.96%, 10 min and 19.21%, 20 min) compared to control (13.62%). Reduction in mass on crease resistant, increased with increase in treatment time i.e. 2.57 per cent for 10minutesand 2.68 per cent for 20 minutes. From simple CRD test it is clear that, there is a significant increase in the loss in thickness of treated sample at 1 per cent level, but loss in mass was found to be nonsignificant when crease resistant treatment is given for 10 minutes and increased significantly at 5 per cent level when treatment is given for 20 minutes. Table 10: Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth tear strength (g) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -10 20 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way SEm 129.71 35.65 CD 1% 557.75 153.29 5% 398.20 109.44 CV (%) 9.44 2.67 Cloth tear strength (g) Warp-way Weft-way 2720 3070 2713 3060 (-0.25) (-0.32) 2704 3052 (-0.58) (-0.58)

Table 11: Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth abrasion resistance (cycles)

Sl. No. 1. 2.

Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics Particulars SEm 0.28 0.11

Treatment time (Min) -10 20

No. of cycles 267 243 219 CD 1% 1.20 0.47 5% 0.85 0.33

Loss in thickness (%) 13.62 17.96 19.21

Loss in mass (%) 2.44 2.26 2.79 CV (%) 5.49 11.14

Loss in thickness Loss in mass

From simple one-way ANOVA it is clear that crease resistant finished samples showed increase in drape coefficient but it was found to be non-significant.

4.1.2.5 Cloth drapability (%)

Table 12 narrates on the drape quality of the control and enzyme finished test samples. It is noticed from this table that naturally colour linted cotton khadi fabric treated with crease resistant finish showed poor drapability with relatively higher drape co-efficient (79.83%, 10 min and 80.25%, 20 min) compared to its control i.e. 79.00 per cent. The drape quality of the fabric can also be expressed in term of nodes i.e. greater the number of nodes

better is the drapability. From this table it is evident that, number of nodes unaltered after the crease resistant finish though there was slight increase in the drape coefficient value. From these percentage values it may be stated that crease resistant finish slightly altered the drape qualities of the naturally colour linted cotton khadi fabrics.

4.1.2.6 Cloth pilling (Ratings)

Table 13 shows the resistance of test samples for pilling. Among the test samples, control and crease resistant fabric samples with treatment time of 10 minutes exhibited slight pilling with rating 2 moderate pilling with rating 3, whereas the treated sample for 30 minutes showed relatively low pilling i.e., slight but tolerate pilling with rating 2. Table 12: Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth drapability (%) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics Particulars Drape co-efficient Treatment time (Min) -10 20 SEm 1.56 CD 1% 6.70 5% 4.78 5 5 5 No. of nodes Drape co-efficient (%) 79.00 79.83 80.25 CV (%) 4.34

The simple CRD test indicated that, there is no change in pilling ratings of crease resistant finished test samples at 10 minutes treatment time, while significant decrease in pilling ratings was observed at 1 per cent level when treated for 20 minutes compared to its control.

4.2 Physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with enzymatic finish
4.2.1 Mechanical properties 4.2.1.1 Yarn count (Ne)
Table 14 represents the yarn count of the samples treated with enzymatic treatment. In general weft was relative finer then warp enzyme treated samples was relative finer that is 24s (14.28%) and 25s (19.04%) for 30 minutes and 60 minutes respectively, compared to control (21s). On the other hand there was slight increase in the weft yarn count by 8.00 per cent (27s) and 10.71 per cent (28s) for 30 minutes and 60 minutes, respectively with respect to corresponding control values (25s). The CRD test indicated that the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with enzymatic finish at 30 minutes and 60 minutes showed significant increase in warp yarn count at 1 per cent level, but weft yarn count slightly increased when treated for 30 minutes. Further the values were highly significant (1%) level when enzymatic treatment was given for 60 minutes.

4.2.1.2 Cloth count (Numerical expression)

Table 15 reveals about the cloth count of enzyme treated test samples. The enzymatic treatment enhanced the density of the warp and weft, however this enhancement was more in warp direction when enzymatically treated for 60 minutes (47) compared to 30 minutes (44) treatment time, where the control was 43.

Table 13: Effect of crease resistant finish on cloth pilling (Ratings)

Sl. No. 1. 2.

Sample Control Crease resistant finished fabrics

Treatment time (Min) -10 20

Cloth pilling (Ratings) 3 3 2

Particulars Cloth pilling

SEm 0.22

CD 1% 0.94 5% 0.67

CV (%) 20.72

Ratings 1 No Pilling 2 Slight but tolerable pilling 3 Moderate pilling of borderline line accepted 4 Severe pilling 5 Extremely high pilling
On contrary, there was not much increase in weft density of enzyme treated samples (30 min and 60 min) i.e. the increase was 31 and 32 respectively compared to control, 30. The simple CRD test indicated that no significant increase in warp-way and weft-way cloth count in enzyme treated samples at 30 minutes was noticed, while sample for 60 minutes treatment time showed slight but non-significant increase in warp-way cloth count and significant increase at 5 per cent level in weft-way cloth count.

4.2.1.3 Mass per unit area (g)

Table 16 depicts about the cloth weight of control and enzymatically finished samples. Test samples showed decrease in cloth weight 12.62g and 12.22g when enzymatic treatment was given for 30 minutes and 60 minutes respectively. Further, it was observed from the same table that warp percentage of all the samples was higher than weft. Maximum warp percentage was observed in control (61.035) sample and minimum when the sample finished for 30 minutes. From simple on way ANOVA it is clear that significant decrease in cloth weight was observed in naturally colour linted khadi fabric samples treated with enzymatic finish at treatment time 30 minutes and 60 minutes compared to its control.

Naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric (Control)

Crease resistant finished naturally colored cotton khadi fabric (10min)

Crease resistant finished naturally colored cotton khadi fabric (20min)

Table 14: Effect of enzymatic finish on yarn count (Ne) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -30 60 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp Weft SEm 0.63 0.70 CD 1% 2.70 3.01 5% 1.93 2.14 CV (%) 5.9 5.9 Yarn count (Ne) Warp Weft 21s 25s 24s 27s (14.28) (8.00) 25s 28s (19.04) (10.71)

Table 15: Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth count (Numerical expression) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -30 60 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way SEm 4.26 1.10 CD 1% 18.31 4.73 5% 13.07 3.37 CV (%) 22.8 7.92 Cloth count (Numerical expression) Warp-way Weft-way 42 30 44 31 (4.76) (3.33) 47 34 (11.90) (10.00)

Table 16: Effect of enzymatic finish on mass per unit area (g) Sl. No. 1. 2. Treatment time (Min) -30 60 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Total Weight SEm 0.064 CD 1% 0.27 5% 0.19 CV (%) 1.14 Total weight (g/sq.mt.) 13.09 12.62 (-3.59) 12.22 (-6.65) Direction Warp-way (%) 61.03 60.57 60.06 Weft-way (%) 37.97 39.43 39.94

Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics

4.2.1.4 Cloth thickness (mm)

Table 17 represents the cloth thickness of the test samples where the enzymatic treatment reduced the cloth thickness. However, this loss in thickness was about 7.14 per cent (0.65 mm) and 12.85 per cent (0.61mm) at two treatment timings 30 minutes and 60 minutes, respectively. From simple one-way ANOVA test it is clear that, the cloth thickness of the enzymatically treated samples significantly decreased at 1 per cent level compared to control. The simple CRD test indicated that samples treated with enzymatic finish at 30 minutes and 60 minutes treatment period showed significant decrease in the cloth thickness at 1 per cent level compared to its control.

4.2.1.5 Cloth bending length (cm)

From Table 18 (Fig 2) it is learnt that, the test samples on enzymatic treatment became soft which is evident from the table values of reduction in bending length. Further it is noticed that the warp-way bending length was reduced by 14.92 per cent (2.28 cm) on enzyme treatment for 30 minutes compared to control i.e. 2.68 cm. Increase in treatment time (60 min) further decreased the bending length (2.20 cm) by 12.00 per cent. A trend of reduction in bending length was also observed in weft-way samples (2.30 cm, 8.00% and 2.24 cm and 12.00%) for 30 minutes and 60 minutes, respectively. Table 17: Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth thickness (mm)

Sl. No. 1. 2.

Sample

Treatment time (Min)

Cloth thickness (mm)

Control Enzyme finished fabrics

-30 60

0.70 0.65 (-7.14) 0.61 (-12.85)

Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Cloth thickness SEm 0.011 CD 1% 0.043 5% 0.030 CV (%) 4.08

Table 18: Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth bending length (cm) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -30 60 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way SEm 0.061 0.058 CD 1% 0.26 0.24 5% 0.18 0.17 CV (%) 5.79 5.54 Cloth bending length (cm) Warp-way Weft-way 2.68 2.50 2.28 2.30 (-14.92) (-8.00) 2.20 2.24 (-17.91) (-12.00)

Control
3

Enzyme finished fabric (30 min)

2.68 2.5

Enzyme finished fabric (60 min)

2.5

2.28 2.2

2.3

2.24

Bending length (cm)

1.5

0.5

0 Warp-way We ft-way

Direction
Fig. 2 Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth bending length (cm)

Fig.2. Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth bending length (cm) Table 19: Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth crease recovery angle (degree) Sl. No. 1. 2. Treatment time (Min) -30 60 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way Cloth recovery SEm 1.38 0.58 0.86 CD 1% 5.93 2.49 3.69 5% 4.23 1.78 3.17 CV (%) 3.35 1.29 1.98 Crease recovery angle (degree) Warp-way 95.25 93.75 (-1.57) 90.25 (-5.24) Weft-way 104.00 102.00 (-1.92) 99.00 (-4.80) Cloth recovery (%) 99.53 97.77 (-1.76) 94.53 (-5.02)

Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics

The CRD test presented indicated that, there was significant decrease in warp bending path of enzyme treated samples at 30 minutes and 60 minutes, at 1 per cent level. Where as weft-way bending length of 30 minutes and 60 minutes enzyme treated samples showed significant decrease at 5 per cent level compare to its control.

4.2.1.6 Cloth crease recovery (degree)

Table 19 narrates on the crease recovery angle of the control and enzyme treated samples. In general the weft-way recovery was found to be higher than warp-way. Among the test samples, the enzyme treated sample showed reduction in weft recovery 1020 for 30 0 minutes followed by 99 for 60 minutes treatment time. Similar to weft-way recovery, a trend 0 0 of descending warp-way recovery was observed i.e. 93.75 and 90.25 when treated with enzyme for 30 minutes and 60 minutes, compared to corresponding control 95.25 degree. In other words, it is evident from this table that on enzymatic treatment the fabric has become gradually soft and pliable thus showed a trend of reduction in cloth recovery angle. The one-way ANOVA indicated that, the enzyme treatment at 30 minutes showed no significant decrease in warp-way and weft-way recovery, whereas samples treated for 60 minutes showed significant decrease (5 per cent level) in warp-way crease recovery and weft-way crease recovery at 1 per cent level. While cloth recovery found to be non significant, when samples treated for 30 minutes and highly significant decrease (1 per cent level) when enzyme treatment was given for 60 minutes.

4.2.1.7 Cloth dimensional stability (%)

Shrinkage is the linear amount of fabric which contracts warp-way or weft-way when subjected for wet treatments and this dimensional change is expressed in terms of percentages. All textile fibres have some tendency to shrink. However, shrinkage of more than 5 per cent in either direction is considered excessive. A rapid consolidated shrinkage of cotton cloth is generally greater in warp-way than weft-way. Table 20: Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth dimensional stability (%) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -30 60 Cloth shrinkage (%) Warp-way Weft-way 3.17 0.89 0.67 0.73 0.67 0.73 CD 1% 1.03 1.37 5% 0.73 0.98 CV (%) 48.04 131.11

Particulars Warp-way Weft-way

SEm 0.24 0.32

Table 20 shows the shrinkage values of the control and enzyme treated samples. The percentage shrinkage of the treated samples is found to be lower than their control. The warpway shrinkage of the enzyme treated sample was relatively lower than its corresponding weft for both 30 minutes and 60 minutes treatment times. Though there was greater per cent of shrinkage in weft-way (0.73%) compared to its warp yarns (0.67%) of the treated sample, the initial warp-way shrinkage was much more (3.17%) then its corresponding weft (0.89%). However, the treated samples showed dimensional stability in a couple of wet treatments (enzyme finish). Further increase in treatment time has not adversely affected the dimension of the fabric. The CRD test presented indicated that there was a significant decrease in the shrinkage per cent in warp direction of enzyme treated test samples, but slight decrease in weft shrinkage was observed which was found to be non-significant compared to control.

4.2.2 Functional properties 4.2.2.1 Cloth elongation (%)

Table 21 reveals about elongation of control and enzyme treated khadi samples. In general warp elongation was found to be higher than weft in all the test samples. Enzyme treated samples showed a fall in warp-way elongation per cent (15.42 %, 30 min 14.66%, 60 min) than the control (16.07%). Similarly, decreasing trend of values were observed in weft elongation 9.02 per cent and 8.79 per cent for 30 minutes and 60 minutes treatment time whereas, 9.13 per cent at control. Table 21: Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth elongation (%) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -30 60 SEm 0.45 0.37 Cloth elongation (%) Warp-way Weft-way 16.07 9.13 15.42 9.02 14.97 8.79 CD 1% 1.93 1.59 5% 1.38 1.13 CV (%) 6.55 9.31

Particulars Warp-way Weft-way

Further the Table indicated that increase in treatment time lowered the elongation of enzyme treated samples irrespective of yarn direction. The simple one way ANOVA test indicated that, there was slight decrease in warp and weft elongation per cent in all enzyme treated naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric samples which found to be non significant compared to its corresponding control.

4.2.2.2 Cloth tensile strength (kgf)

Table 22 represents the tensile strength of the test samples, where the enzymatic treatment reduced the tensile strength of the test samples. In this table, control sample showed maximum warp tensile strength (36.62 kgf) compared to its corresponding weft and the similar trend is observed in enzyme treated samples too. The per cent decrease in warp tensile strength was 5.43 per cent for 30minutesand 6.03 per cent for 60 minutes. Where as weft tensile strength was 2.98 per cent and 5.59 per cent for 30 minutes and 60 minutes treatment time, respectively. The simple CRD test indicated that, there was slight decrease in warp and weft-way tensile strength of the test samples treated with enzymatic finish applied for 30 minutes and 60 minutes, which was found to be non significant compared to its corresponding control.

4.2.2.3 Cloth tear strength (g)

Tear strength is the work done in tearing the sample when sudden force is applied through a fixed distance. Tear strength is inversely proportional to the tensile strength, when yarn density of a woven cloth is considered. From Table 23 it is evident that weft-way tear strength is greater than warp-way in both control and treated samples. Increase in warp-way tear strength was observed in enzymes treated samples (3065g for 60 min and 3112g for 30 min) compared to control (2720g). Similar trend of results were observed in weft-way tear strength values i.e. 3172g for 30 minutes, 3084g for 60 minutes and 3070g for control. The CRD test indicated that, the increase in warp and weft tear strength among enzyme treated samples was significant at 1 per cent level. On the other hand, 60 minutes

Table 22: Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth tensile strength (kgf) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -30 60 Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way SEm 1.92 1.45 CD 1% 8.25 6.23 5% 5.89 4.45 CV (%) 12.24 12.64 Cloth tensile strength (kgf) Warp-way Weft-way 36.62 26.46 34.63 25.88 (-5.43) (-2.98) 34.41 24.98 (-6.03) (-5.59)

enzyme treated samples showed significant increase in warp tear strength at 1 per cent level with slight decrease in weft tear strength, which was found to be non significant.

4.2.2.4 Cloth abrasion resistance (cycles)

Abrasion is just an aspect of wear and is the rubbing away of the component fibres and yarns in a fabric. In general, weakening of the fabric structure is a direct consequence of fibre breakdown. The life of any fabric is dependent on its resistance to abrasion. The abrasion resistance of a cloth is further expressed in terms of loss in thickness (%) and loss in mass (%). Table 24 reveals about cloth abrasion resistance of the selected fabric samples. The control coloured cotton khadi sample showed higher resistance to abrasion (267 cycles) followed by 248 cycles and 235 cycles for enzyme treated samples at 30 minutes and 60 minutes treatment time, respectively. When loss of thickness (%) of abraded samples was assessed, there existed an ascending trend with increase in treatment time i.e. 10.05 per cent for 30 minutes and 11.50 per cent for 60 minutes. Similarly, there was greater loss mass (%) with increase in treatment time i.e. 2.42 per cent (30 min) and 3.01 (60 min). Table 23: Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth tear strength (g) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -30 60 SEm 24.44 17.43 Cloth tear strength (g) Warp-way Weft-way 2720 3070 3112 3172 3065 3084 CD 1% 105.09 74.94 5% 75.03 53.51 CV (%) 1.72 1.23

Particulars Warp-way Weft-way

A perusal of CRD test indicated that, the loss in thickness of enzyme treated naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric was highly significant (1% level) whereas, loss in mass was significant at 5 per cent level for 30 minutes treatment time. Whereas, the samples enzyme treated for 60 minutes showed significant loss in mass (1% level) compared to its corresponding control values.

4.2.2.5 Cloth drapability (%)

Drape is an important property of textile materials, which allows fabric to orient itself into graceful folds or pleats as a result of force of gravity. The style of garment and its type determines the amount of drape that is needed and accordingly the fabric is selected. Drape

Table 24: Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth abrasion resistance (cycles) Sl. No. 1. 2. Treatment time (Min) -30 60 SEm 0.22 0.06 Loss in thickness (%) 13.62 10.05 11.50 Loss in mass (%) 2.44 2.42 3.01 CV (%) 4.78 6.05

Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics

No. of cycles 267 252 240 CD 1% 0.94 0.25 5% 0.67 0.18

Particulars Loss in thickness Loss in mass

Table 25: Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth drapability (%) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -30 60 No. of nodes 5 5 5 CD 1% 0.28 5% 0.20 Drape co-efficient (%) 79.00 77.00 75.20 CV (%) 4.24

Particulars Drape co-efficient

Sem 0.067

is one of the subjective performance characteristics of a fabric that contributes to its aesthetic appeal. Drapability is the result of interaction of warp-way and weft-way characteristics. The objective evaluation of cloth drapability is expressed in terms of drape coefficient, however, the drape quality of the same fabric may be evaluated subjectively and expressed in terms of number of nodes. Table 25 narrates on the drape quality of the control and enzyme treated test samples. It is noticed from the said table that enzyme finished samples exhibited better drapability with lower drape co-efficient viz., 77 per cent and 75 per cent respectively for 30 minutes and 60 minutes treatment times compared to control (79.00%). From simple CRD test it is clear that drape coefficient of enzyme treated samples decreased significantly at 1 per cent level compared to control.

4.2.2.6 Cloth pilling (Ratings)

Generally a garment is discarded because of its unpleasing appearance. Further, in assessing the durability of fabric it is necessary to see how soon it becomes shabby and unacceptable. One of the causes for shabbiness that distracts the appearance and texture is pilling. Table 26 shows the resistance of test samples for pilling. Among the test samples, the control sample showed moderate pilling with ratings 3, on the other hand an excellent resistance for pilling was observed with enzyme treated samples, irrespective of treatment time. The simple CRD test indicated that enzyme treatment significantly decreased the pilling ratings of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric sample at 1 per cent level compared to control.

4.3 Physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with softener finish
4.3.1 Mechanical properties 4.3.1.1 Yarn count (Ne)
The weft yarn count of control samples was higher (25s) than its corresponding warp (21s) i.e. picks were finer than ends. Table 27 reveals about the change in yarn fineness on treating the test samples with cationic and silicone softeners. The warp yarn count of the softener treated samples increased, which is evident from this table, for both cationic (26s) and silicone (23s) but, percentage increase was more in case of cationic softener (23.80%) compared to silicone softener 99.52%). Table 26: Effect of enzymatic finish on cloth pilling (Ratings) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Enzyme finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -30 60 CD 1% 0.77 5% 0.55 Cloth pilling (Ratings) 3 1 1 CV (%) 25.46

Particulars Cloth pilling

SEm 0.18

Ratings 1 No Pilling 2 Slight but tolerable pilling 3 Moderate pilling of borderline line accepted 4 Severe pilling 5 Extremely high pilling A similar trend of increase in weft yarn count was observed with cationic and silicone treated samples i.e., 29s and 27s, respectively when compared to control (25s). Among the two softeners, sample treated with cationic softener was finer than that of silicone for both warp and weft yarns. A perusal of CRD test indicated that the increase in warp and weft yarn count was highly significant (1% level) when treated with silicone and cationic softener.

4.3.1.2 Cloth count (Numerical expression)

Table 28 depicts about the cloth count of the control and softener treated test samples. It is evident from this table that, the naturally colour linted khadi fabrics when treated softeners showed an increase in cloth count for both cationic (46 x 32) and silicone (45 x 31) treatments compared to control (42 x 30). In general greater per cent of increase noticed with warp yarns than weft irrespective of type of softeners. However, greater per cent of increase of yarn density was observed in sample treated with cationic softener (8.69% warp and 6.25% weft) than silicone softener (6.67% warp and 3.22% weft). From simple CRD test it is indicated that, cationic softener treated test samples showed significant increase in the warp-way cloth count at 1 per cent level where as weft-way cloth count was found to be non-significant. Where as silicone softener treated samples showed significant increase at 5 per cent level and slight but non-significant increase was observed in weft-way cloth count.

Naturally colored cotton khadi fabric (Control)

Enzyme finished naturally colored cotton khadi fabric (30 min)

Enzyme finished naturally colored cotton khadi fabric (60 min)

Table 27: Effect of softener finish on yarn count (Ne) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Softener finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -Cationic Silicone Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp Weft SEm 0.93 0.70 CD 1% 3.99 3.01 5% 2.85 2.14 CV (%) 8.91 5.85 Yarn Count (Ne) Warp Weft 21s 25s 26s 29s (23.80) (16.50) 23s 27s (9.52) (8.00)

Table 28: Effect of softener finish on cloth count (Numerical expression) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Softener finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -Cationic Silicone Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way SEm 0.71 0.77 CD 1% 3.05 3.31 5% 2.17 2.36 CV (%) 3.57 5.66 Cloth Count (Numerical expression) Warp-way Weft-way 42 30 46 32 (9.52) (6.25) 45 31 (6.67) (3.33)

4.3.1.3 Mass per unit area (g)

From Table 29 it is clear that colour linted khadi sample has exhibited maximum weight of 13.16g at control than the softener treated khadi samples (12.80g, cationic and 12.40g silicone). Among the softeners, the test samples treated with cationic softener showed greater weight loss (6.13%) than the sample finished with silicone softener (2.81%). As far as composition of ends and picks in the test sample was considered warp percentage was maximum at control (61.03%) with respect to its weft as well as softener finished samples. The sample treated with both the softeners showed slight reduction in warp composition (0.25%, cationic softener and 1.14% silicone softener) compared to control. On the contrary the weft percentage was found to be greater when sample was treated both the softeners i.e. 40.22 per cent and 40.11 per cent for cationic and silicone respectively compared to control (37.97%). The simple one-way ANOVA test indicated that, naturally colour linted khadi samples treated with cationic softener showed no significant decrease in the cloth weight, where as silicone softener treated samples showed highly significant decrease in cloth weight at 1 per cent level compared to control.

Table 29: Effect of softener finish on mass per unit area (g) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Treatment time (Min) Total weight (g/sq.mt.) 13.09 12.80 12.40 Direction Warp-way (%) Weft-way (%) 61.03 60.78 59.89 37.97 40.22 40.11

-Cationic Silicone Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Total weight SEm 0.10

Control Softener finished fabrics

CD 1% 0.43 5% 0.30

CV (%) 1.78

4.3.1.4 Cloth thickness (mm)

Table 30 represents the cloth thickness of the test samples, where the fabric treated with cationic softener increased the cloth thickness i.e. 6.67 per cent (0.75 mm) whereas the values reduced slightly when treated with silicone softener 1.67 per cent (0.69 mm) with respect to its control (0.70 mm). From CRD test it is clear that cationic softener treated samples showed increase in the thickness, the values found to be non-significant. On the hand, silicone softer treated samples showed slight but non-significant decreased in thickness compared to its corresponding control.

4.3.1.5 Cloth bending length (cm)

From Table 31 it is learnt that the test samples on softener treatment showed reduction in bending path, which means that there is improvement in the hand and feel. Further, it is noticed that the warp-way bending length was reduced by 19.11 per cent (2.25cm) when treated with cationic softener, but the reduction was 14.04 per cent (2.35 cm) when finished with silicone softener compared to control. A trend of reduction in bending length was also observed in weft-way samples i.e., 2.15 cm, 16.28 per cent and 2.25 cm, 11.11 per cent for cationic and silicone softeners, respectively. Table 30: Effect of softener finish on cloth thickness (mm)

Sl. No. 1. 2.

Sample

Treatment time (Min)

Thickness (mm)

Control Softener finished fabrics

-Cationic Silicone

0.70 0.75 (6.67) 0.69 (-1.67)

Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Cloth Thickness SEm 0.017 CD 1% 0.073 5% 0.052 CV (%) 5.63

Table 31: Effect of softener finish on cloth bending length (cm) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Softener finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -Cationic Silicone Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way SEm 0.05 0.04 CD 1% 0.215 0.17 5% 0.15 0.12 CV (%) 5.06 4.36 Bending length (cm) Warp-way Weft-way 2.68 2.50 2.25 2.15 (-19.11) (-16.28) 2.35 2.25 (-14.04) (-11.11)

The simple CRD test indicated that, both cationic and silicone softener treated samples showed decrease in the warp-way and weft-way bending path which was highly significant at 1 per cent level compared to its control values.

4.3.1.6 Cloth crease recovery angle (degree)

Table 32 narrates on the crease recovery of the control and softener treated samples. In general the weft-way recovery was found to be higher than warp-way and the cloth crease recovery was the resultant of warp and weft recovery angle the weft recovery was slightly higher (1020) for cationic softener compared to sample treated with silicone softener (1010). There was not much change in the values of warp-way recovery i.e. 92.500 and 92.250 for cationic and silicone softeners respectively. However, per cent decrease in warp-way crease recovery angle is 2.88 per cent (92.500) for cationic and for silicone, 3.14 per cent 0 (92.25 ). Table 32: Effect of softener finish on cloth crease recovery angle (degree) Sl. No. 1. 2. Treatment time (Min) -Cationic Silicone Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way Cloth recovery SEm 0.58 0.59 0.43 CD 1% 2.49 2.53 1.84 5% 1.78 1.81 1.32 CV (%) 1.39 1.30 1.00 Crease recovery angle (degree) Warp-way 95.25 92.50 (-2.88) 92.25 (-3.14) Weft-way 104.00 102.00 (-1.92) 101.00 (-2.88) Cloth recovery (%) 99.53 96.77 (-2.77) 96.49 (-3.05)

Sample Control Softener finished fabrics

Further, it is evident from this table that naturally colour cotton khadi samples treated with silicone softener showed greater decrease in cloth recovery i.e. 96.49 per cent (-3.05) than the cationic softener treated samples 2.77 per cent (96.77%) compared to control (99.53%). From simple one way ANOVA it is clear that cationic softener treated samples showed significant decrease in warp-way crease recovery angle at 1 per cent level and weftway recovery found to be significant at 5 per cent level. Where as silicon softener treated

samples showed significant decrease in the crease recovery angles both in warp and weft directions at 1 per cent level. But cloth recovery of both samples showed significant decrease at 1 per cent compared to its control values.

4.3.1.7 Cloth dimensional stability (%)

Table 33 shows the effect of softener, on dimensions of the control and treated colour linted cotton khadi samples. The percentage shrinkage of the treated sample is found to be lower than its control. Among the softener finished fabrics cationic sample showed absolutely no change in the warp-way and weft-way dimensions, where as, silicone treated sample exhibited only warp-way shrinkage of 0.67 per cent. However, shrinkage of control sample was 3.17 per cent and 0.89 per cent in warp and weft direction respectively, that is percentage shrinkage in warp direction was found to be greater than that of weft at control, whereas softener treated samples showed excellent dimensional stability. The CRD test indicated that, cationic and silicone softener treated naturally colour linted cotton khadi samples exhibited significant decrease in shrinkage per cent both in warp and weft direction at 1 per cent level compared its corresponding control values. Table 33: Effect of softener finish on cloth dimensional stability (%) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Softener finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -Cationic Silicone Cloth shrinkage (%) Warp-way Weft-way 3.17 0.89 0.00 0.00 0.67 0.00 CD 1% 0.98 0.51 5% 0.70 0.36 CV (%) 31.49 40.04

Particulars Warp-way Weft-way

SEm 0.23 0.12

4.3.2 Functional properties 4.3.2.1 Cloth elongation (%)

Table 34 depicts the elongation of test samples. In general the warp-way elongation was higher than weft-way. The percentage warp-way elongation enhanced with softener treatment i.e. 23.47 per cent and 21.91 per cent for cationic and silicone softeners respectively, compared to control (16.07%). Similar trend of results were noticed in weft elongation i.e. 10.94 per cent for cationic and 10.24 per cent for silicone softener. Among the softener treated samples, cationic softener treated samples exhibited greater elongation compared to silicone treated samples. It is evident from simple CRD test that, cationic softener increased warp way elongation (%) which is highly significant (1% level) and weft-way elongation was found to be significant at 5 per cent level, where as silicone treated samples showed highly significant increase in warp elongation and slight but non-significant increase in weft-way elongation when compared to control.

4.3.2.2 Cloth tensile strength (kgf)

Table 35 reflects on tensile strength of control and softener treated samples. Among all the test samples cationic softener finished samples showed greater warp-way tensile

Table 34: Effect of softener finish on cloth elongation (%) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Softener finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -Cationic Silicone Cloth elongation (%) Warp-way Weft-way 16.07 9.13 23.47 10.94 21.91 10.24 CD 1% 2.32 1.80 5% 1.65 1.28 CV (%) 5.91 6.60

Particulars Warp-way Weft-way

SEm 0.54 0.42

Table 35: Effect of softener finish on cloth tensile strength (kgf) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Softener finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -Cationic Silicone Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way SEm 2.00 1.25 CD 1% 8.60 5.37 5% 6.14 3.83 CV (%) 12.24 10.42 Cloth tensile strength (kgf) Warp-way Weft-way 36.62 26.46 42.62 27.77 (14.07) (4.72) 30.86 26.54 (-18.66) (0.30)

strength (42.62 kgf) i.e. 14.07 per cent. On other hand, reduction (30.86 kgf) by 18.66 per cent was observed when treated with silicone softener when compared to control (36.62 kgf). However, weft-way tensile strength was grater when treated with both softener i.e. 27.77 kgf for cationic followed by silicone softener (26.54 kgf) with respect to control i.e. 26.46 kgf. The simple CRD test indicated that, there was an increase is warp-way and weft-way tear strength of cationic softener treated samples but was found to be non-significant similarly silicone treated samples did show decrease in warp tensile strength and slight increase in weft way strength where the were found to be non-significant compared to there control. Table 36: Effect of softener finish on cloth tear strength (g) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Softener finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -Cationic Silicone Figures in parenthesis indicate percentage Particulars Warp-way Weft-way SEm 31.53 27.34 CD 1% 135.57 117.56 5% 96.79 83.93 CV (%) 2.31 1.92 Cloth tear strength (g) Warp-way Weft-way 2720 3070 3272 3304 (16.87) (7.08) 3080 3136 (11.69) (2.10)

Control
3500

Cationic Silicone

3000

2500

Tear strength (g)

2000

1500

1000

500

0 Warp-way
Direction

Weft-way

Fig. 3 Effect of softener finish on cloth tear strength (g)

Fig.3. Effect of softner finish on cloth tear strength (g)

4.3.2.3 Cloth tear strength (g)

It is evident from Table 36 (Fig 3) that weft-way tear strength is greater than warpway in both control and treated samples. On softening, the samples showed higher weft-way tear strength i.e. 3304 g and 3136 g for cationic and silicone treated samples respectively, on the hand though the warp-way tear strength was relatively lower than weft-way but was relatively higher than it control that is, 3272 g (cationic) and 3080 g (silicone). Further, increase in tear strength was remarkably high in samples treated with cationic softener for both warp-way and weft-way i.e. 16.87 per cent and 7.08 per cent respectively compared to sample treated with silicone (11.69%, warp and 2.10% weft). The simple CRD test indicated that naturally coloured cotton khadi samples treated with cationic softener showed highly significant increase in the tear strength both in warp and weft directions, whereas silicone treated samples showed significant increase in warp tear strength but increase in weft-way tear strength was found to be non-significant compared to its control.

4.3.2.4 Cloth abrasion resistance (cycles)

Table 37 reveals about cloth abrasion resistance of the selected colour linted khadi samples. Higher resistance to abrasion (267 cycles) was observed at control followed by 250 cycles and 239 cycles for samples treated with cationic and silicone softeners, respectively. Further, it is noticed that loss in thickness (%) of abraded samples was found greater when treated with cationic softener (16.91%) compared to control (13.605) and silicone treated sample (14.11%) whereas, loss in mass (%) was maximum at control (33.33%)

followed by 1.08 per cent and 1.01 per cent for silicone and cationic softener treated samples, respectively. On the whole among the softener treated samples, loss in thickness and loss in mass were found to be greater with samples treated with cationic and silicone softeners, respectively. The simple CRD test indicated that the increase in loss of thickness and decrease in loss of mass of cationic softener treated samples was highly significant (1% level). Whereas silicone softener treated samples showed meagre increase in loss in thickness, which was found to be non-significant but loss in mass was found to be highly significant compared to control. Table 37: Effect of softener finish on cloth abrasion resistance (cycles) Sl. No. 1. 2. Treatment time (Min) -Cationic Silicone Loss in thickness (%) 13.62 16.91 14.11 Loss in mass (%) 2.44 1.01 1.08 CV (%) 4.78 6.06

Sample Control Softener finished fabrics

No. of cycles 267 250 239 CD 1% 0.94 0.25 5% 0.67 0.18

Particulars Loss in thickness Loss in mass

Sem 0.22 0.06

4.3.2.5 Cloth drapability (%)

Table 38 narrates on the drape quality of the control and enzyme finished test samples. It is noticed from the said table that softener finished samples showed better drapability with relatively lower drape co-efficient viz., 72.70 per cent and 74.51 per cent respectively for cationic and silicone softeners compared to control (79.00%). The result is also supported with number of nodes, another mode of subjective expression of drapability i.e. higher the number of nodes better the drape quality. The simple one-way ANOVA test indicated that, naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric sample treated with cationic softener showed, significant decrease in drape coefficient at 1 per cent level where as significant decrease was observed at 5 per cent level in silicone softener treated sample, when compared to control.

4.3.2.6 Cloth pilling (Ratings)

Table 39 shows the resistance of test samples for pilling. Among the test samples naturally colour linted khadi samples showed moderate pilling at control with ratings as 3, whereas softener treated samples showed slight pilling (2 rating) irrespective of type of softener applied. The simple CRD test indicated that there was significant decrease in the pilling ratings at 5 per cent level in both test samples treated with cationic and silicone softeners compared to corresponding control. Influence of bending length on crease recovery angle of special finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics Influence of bending length on crease recovery of crease resistant finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric From Table 40 (Fig 4) it is evident that the influence of warp bending length on crease recovery of crease resistant finished fabrics was found to be non significant. Where as the

Table 38: Effect of softener finish on cloth drapability (%) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Softener finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -Cationic Silicone No. of nodes 5 6 5 Drape co-efficient (%) 79.00 72.70 74.51

Particulars Drape co-efficient

Sem 1.46

CD 1% 6.27 5% 4.48

CV (%) 4.24

Table 39: Effect of softener finish on cloth pilling (Ratings) Sl. No. 1. 2. Sample Control Softener finished fabrics Treatment time (Min) -Cationic Silicone Cloth pilling (Ratings) 3 2 2

Particulars Cloth pilling

Sem 0.29

CD 1% 1.24 5% 0.89

CV (%) 29.80

Ratings 1 No Pilling 2 Slight but tolerable pilling 3 Moderate pilling of borderline line accepted 4 Severe pilling 5 Extremely high pilling influence of weft bending length on crease recovery was significant at 5 % level i.e., increase in weft bending length resulted into increase in crease recovery angle. However, correlation value showed that, the influence of warp bending length was 42.2 per cent and weft bending length was 49.5 per cent. Influence of bending length on crease recovery of enzyme finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric The warp-way and weft-way bending path of enzyme treated naturally colour linted khadi sample was found to be significant at 1 per cent level. The influence of cloth stiffness was found to be negatively related which inferred that increase in cloth bending length resulted into increase in crease recovery angles. Further, the influence of cloth stiffness on crease recovery explained by 52.8 per cent and 54.7 per cent for warp and weft, respectively. Influence of bending length on crease recovery of softener finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric With respect to softener-finished samples both warp-way and weft-way bending length and crease recovery were found to be significant and positively related. The softeners imparted softness to the fabric which inturn showed decrease in bending length. However, the 2 influence was 53.9 per cent for warp and 59.2 per cent for weft as explained by R value. Hence, hypothesis set for this study is disproved i.e., stiffness positively influenced the crease recovery property of the fabric.

Naturally colored cotton khadi fabric (Control)

Softener finished naturally colored cotton khadi fabric (cationic softener)

Softener finished naturally colored cotton khadi fabric (silicone softener)

Table 40. Influence of bending length on crease recovery of specially finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics Sl. No. 1. Warp Standard error 14.088 Weft Standard error 6.917

Sample

Source

Co-efficient

t-stat
NS

p-value
NS

Co-efficient

t-stat

p-value
NS

Crease resistant finished fabrics

X R2 X R2 X R2

0.18 0.422 0.58 0.528 0.24 0.539

0.1679

0.115

0.28 0.495

2.052*

0.059

2.

Enzyme finished fabrics

4.022

2.242*

0.042

0.24 0.547 0.19 0.592

3.310

2.358*

0.033

Softener finished fabrics ** - Significant at 1 per cent level * - Significant at 5 per cent level NS Non-significant

3.

2.152

2.307*

0.037

2.215

2.650*

0.019

X- Warp or Weft

0.6

Warp

Weft

0.5

0.4

Correlation

0.3

0.2

0.1

0 Crease re sistant finished fabrics Enz yme finishe d fabrics Softene r finished fabrics

Fig. 4 Influence of be nding le ngth on crease recovery of specially finished naturally coloure d cotton khadi fabrics

Fig.4. Influence of bending length on crease recovery of specially finished naturally colored cotton khadi fabrics

Influence of bending length on drapability of special finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics Influence of bending length on drapability of crease resistant finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric It is observed from Table 41 (Fig 5) that, the warp-way and weft-way cloth stiffness and drapability of naturally colour linted fabrics treated with crease resistant finish was found to be significant at 5 per cent level, but the influence of cloth stiffness was negatively related which inferred that increase in cloth stiffness resulted into decrease in drapability. Further, the 2 R value explain that the influence of way 45.1 per cent for warp and 56.4 per cent for weft. Influence of bending length on drapability of enzyme finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric It is also noticed from Table 41 that the influence of cloth bending length on drapability of enzyme treated samples was found significant at 5 per cent level in warp direction and was non-significant in weft direction. From these results it can be inferred that, enzyme treated samples in warp-way direction showed decrease in bending length which return increased the drapability. However, the R2 value explain that the influence of cloth stiffness and drapability was found 48.7 per cent and 7 per cent in warp and weft direction respectively. Influence of bending length on drapability of softener finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric The perusal of Table 41 indicated that, the influence of warp-way and weft-way stiffness on drapability of softener treated naturally colour linted cotton was highly significant and was negatively related i.e., increase in stiffness decreased the cloth drapability. However, the influence way only 73 per cent and 74 per cent for warp and weft respectively. Thus hypothesis set for this study is disproved.

Table 41. Influence of bending length on drapability of specially finished naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics Sl. No. 1. Warp Standard error 9.699 Weft Standard error 5.591

Sample

Source

Co-efficient

t-stat

p-value

Co-efficient

t-stat

p-value

Crease resistant finished fabrics

X R
2

0.13 0.451 0.43 0.487 0.61 0.732

1.824*

0.090

0.27 0.564

2.462*

0.027

2.

Enzyme finished fabrics

X R2 X R2

3.363

2.012*

0.064

25.73 0.074 0.51 0.743

3080.096

0.267 NS

0.793

Softener finished fabrics ** - Significant at 1 per cent level * - Significant at 5 per cent level NS Non-significant

3.

3.204

3.871** X- Warp or Weft

0.002

3.852

4.001**

0.001

Warp
0.8

Weft

0.7

0.6

0.5 Correlation

0.4

0.3

0.2

0.1

0 Crease resistant finishe d fabrics Enzyme finished fabrics Softener finishe d fabrics

Fig. 5. Influence of be nding le ngth on drapability of specially finishe d naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics

Fig.5. Influence of bending length on drapability of specially finished naturally colored cotton khadi fabrics

V. DISCUSSION
The discussion of the present study on Special finishes to improve resiliency and hand-feel of the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric are presented under following headings: Physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with crease resistant finish 5.1.1 Mechanical properties 5.1.2 Functional properties Physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with enzymatic finish 5.2.1 Mechanical properties 5.3 Physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with softener finish 5.3.1 Mechanical properties 5.3.2 Functional properties 5.2 5.1

5.1 Physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with crease resistant finish
5.1.1 Mechanical properties 5.1.1.1 Yarn count (Ne)
From Table 1 it is learnt that there is a negligible increase in the warp and weft yarn count of the samples treated with crease resistant finish. The naturally coloured cotton yarns were sized before warping and some per cent of it was desized during finishing. Further, deposition of trace of crease resisting agent on the surface of the fabric probably did not alter the yarn count drastically. Thus, there was not much increase in the yarn count after treating the fabric with crease resisting agent.

5.1.1.2 Cloth count (Numerical expression)

It is apparent from Table 2 that in the test sample ends per inch are greater than picks per inch, which indicate the compact alignment of the warp yarns, compared to weft. Greater number of ends per unit area attribute to many important functional properties like drapability, serviceability, durability, strength and cloth balance. It is evident from the results that the fabric set has remained unchanged after the crease resistant finish, which clearly indicates that the crease resistant finish can safely be applied on naturally coloured cotton Khadi fabric.

5.1.1.3 Mass per unit area (g)

From Table 3 it is clear that cloth weight increased with increase in the treatment time of crease resistant finish. This may be due to the anchoring of the crease resisting agent with the cross linking of hydroxyl groups of cotton fabric which increased with increase in treatment time that inturn probably increased the cloth weight. It is evident from this table that the fabric is woven with greater number of ends/unit area, thus the warp percentage is remarkably higher than their corresponding weft (Table 3).

5.1.1.4 Cloth thickness (mm)

Table 4 illustrates the effect of crease resistant finish on thickness of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric. The results depicted that the cloth thickness of the treated sample reduced when treated for 10 minutes. This may be because during the resin treatment, the fabric undergoes a kind of physical friction between fabric to fabric and fabric to equipment. Thus, there may be slight decrease in the cloth thickness compared to control.

On the other hand, there was increase in cloth thickness with increase in treatment time (20 min). This may be due to cross lining of the resin particles along with some amount of deposition on the surface of the fabric that inturn enhanced with increase in treatment time.

5.1.1.5 Cloth bending length (cm)

Table 5 gave a detailed picture of both control and treated samples. The warp way bending length of control sample was greater than its weft way bending length. The stiffness of crease resistant fabric treated for 10 minutes and 20 minutes did decrease in warp and weft directions. Infact sizing of warp yarns during weaving stiffened the ends, which inturn helped to maintain the warp tension as well as their parallel alignment to the ground. Further, size in the warp ends contributed to the cloth stiffness. But because of desizing and relaxation of warp yarns during wet treatments, the method of crease resistant finish did not show remarkable increase in the stiffness. In other words though there was some deposition of crease resisting agent on cloth surface, which is evident from cloth weight (Table 3) and cloth thickness (Table 4), these two parameters did not alter the pliability of the cloth, which is a remarkable observation.

5.1.1.6 Cloth Crease recovery angle (Degree)

An appraisal of Table 6 showed that the treated test samples significantly increased the crease recovery angle, which improved with increase in treatment time. This would indicate that there could be higher degree of cross-linking of resin and cellulase molecules take place with increase in treatment time.

5.1.1.7 Cloth dimensional stability (%)

A perusal of Table 7 showed the dimensional stability of control and crease resistant finished samples. The warp way shrinkage was found to greater than the weft-way in the initial stage may be because of desizing that lead to relaxation shrinkage. A positive stability in dimension was observed in warp direction of the treated sample. Though there was slight shrinkage in weft-way, the per cent values gradually followed a descending order. This clearly indicated that, the initial shrinkage is greater than consolidated shrinkage where, in subsequent wet processing the test samples gradually attained dimensional stability.

5.1.2 Functional properties 5.1.2.1 Cloth elongation (%)

Table 8 clearly indicated that crease resistant finish adversely affected the percent elongation of the naturally colour linted cotton khadi samples. This may be due to the fact that in cellulose cross linked chains, the displacement of cellulose molecules by tensile forces resulted in the creation of considerable strain, which inturn imparted stress on the cellulose chains that eventually broke, and exhibited low percentage of elongation.

5.1.2.2 Cloth tensile strength (kgf)

Table 9 presented that the tensile strength of the naturally coloured linted cotton khadi sample found to be higher at control than treated sample. This may be because in untreated sample, the tensile forces readily displace the cellulose molecules in the amorphous region, where in the fibres can easily be stretched, has considerable capacity to absorb the applied force. These results are supported by the values in Table 8, where it is evident that elongation per cent decreased when samples were treated with crease resistant finish. This clearly indicates that per cent elongation is directly proportional to the tensile strength i.e. higher the elongation (%) better the tensile strength.

5.1.2.3 Cloth tear strength (g)

In general it is evident from Table 10 that the warp-way tear strength of all the test samples was lower than the weft way. Crease resistant fabrics did show a trend of decrease

in tear strength both in warp and weft directions, may be due to asymmetric distribution of load in finished fabrics compared to control. Hence, there was reduction in tear strength of the crease resistant treated samples. It is evident from Table 2 that warp yarns aligned more compactly than weft yarns and cloth density is inversely proportional to the tear strength hence, warp tear strength was found lower than the weft tear strength.

5.1.2.4 Cloth abrasion resistance (cycles)

The perusal of Table 11 showed the abrasion resistance of test samples. Among these samples, control showed greater resistance to abrasion. Resistance to abrasion was directly proportional to cloth thickness, from Table 4. It is evident that the resin treatment reduced the cloth thickness inturn it affected the abrasion resistance.

5.1.2.5 Cloth drapability (%)

From the Table 12 it can be concluded that crease resistant finish had adverse (slight) effect on the drapability of the cotton khadi fabric. Though size was removed during crease resistant finish (wet treatment) during cross-linking, probably the resin treatment have redeposited on the fabric surface, which inturn increased the stiffness of the fabric. Cloth stiffness is inversely proportional to its drape quality. Hence, increase in stiffness eventually affected the drape negatively. And increase in treatment time further, enhanced the deposition of resin, which lead to relatively poor drapability.

5.1.2.6 Cloth pilling (ratings)

Table 13 disclosed on pilling of control and crease resistant treated naturally colour linted cotton khadi fabric samples. From this table it was clear that, control fabric and sample treated for 10 minutes showed moderate pilling. Which may be because of either starch or size in the control and, resin in crease resistant samples. Further sample treated for 20 minutes showed better resistance for piling, may be because of superficial deposition of resin on fabric surface.

5.2 Physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with enzymatic finish
5.2.1 Mechanical properties 5.2.1.1 Yarn Count (Ne)
A perusal of Table 14 revealed that, there was increase in the yarn count of the enzyme treated samples compared to control because of warp yarns being relatively coarser have larger surface area with little protruding fibres which were removed during the enzyme treatment and probably make the yarns fine and smooth.

5.2.1.2 Cloth count (Numerical expression)

Table 15 presents that, there was increase in cloth count with increase in treatment time. From Table 13 it is evident that on enzymatic treatment the yarns became finer and the wet treatments resulted into weave compactness, thus enhancing the number of threads per unit area. The statistical results revealed that enzymatic treatment positively influenced the cloth count.

5.2.1.3 Mass per unit area (g)

Table 16 clearly indicated that weight per square meter of the finished fabric decreased with enzymatic treatment. Loss in cloth weight increased with increase in treatment time. Greater weight loss with increased treatment time is due to the removal of more surface fibres or fuzz present on the fabric along with size, during mechanical agitation of enzyme treatment.

5.2.1.4 Cloth thickness (mm)

Table 17 revealed that, enzymatic treatment decreased the thickness of the test samples, which increased with increase in treatment time. The change was mainly due to enzymatic hydrolysis of cellulose especially in the amorphous region. This hydrolysis removes the protruding fibres covering the fabric surface, thus reducing the thickness of enzyme treated test samples.

5.2.1.5 Cloth bending length (cm)

The bending length is a characteristic property of a fabric and is dependent upon the energy required to produce a given bending deformation under its own weight. Table 18 shows the bending length of warp-way and weft-way test samples. Bending length of the control sample is greater both in warp and weft ways, however warp-way bending path was longer than weft-way at control but a trend of decrease is noticed on enzymatic treatment. This may be due to softness and smoothness, which made the fabric more pliable. This in turn reduced bending path on enzymatic treatment.

5.2.1.6 Cloth crease recovery angle (degree)

Table 19 shows the effect of enzymatic treatment on the selected naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric. Samples treated with enzyme at different treatment times showed gradual decrease in crease recovery angles in both warp and weft directions. This may be because of the effect of enzyme that imparted softness in the colour linted cotton by hydrolyzing and removing the surface fibres. These values are supported by the values of reduction in bending path (Table 17), which inturn reduced the crease recovery property i.e. lower the bending path, softer the fabric and lesser the crease recovery angle. From this it is evident that the fabric is made more pliable and flexible on application of enzyme finish.

5.2.1.7 Cloth dimensional stability (%)

A perusal of Table 20 shows the dimensional stability of control and enzyme finished samples. The warp-way shrinkage of control was found to be greater than weft at control may be because of desizing and relaxation of yarns that lead to shrinkage. On the other hand enzyme finished samples showed slight shrinkage both in warp and weft way as these samples have already under gone wet treatment during enzymatic finish hence, there was not much change in the dimension when tested for shrinkage. Moreover treatment time did not adversely affect the dimensions of the enzyme treated samples, which is a positive result.

5.2.2 Functional properties 5.2.2.1 Cloth elongation (%)

From Table 21 it can be concluded that, there was reduction in elongation (%) when treated with enzymes. This fall in the percentage value may be because of hydrolysis of cellulose and removal of protruding surface fibres. Further, increase in treatment time, progressively decreased the cloth elongation per cent. This may be because at the initial stage hydrolysis of cellulose involved removal of surface fibres and in the later stages the enzyme probably attacked the amorphous region of the cellulose resulting into further reduction in cloth elongation.

5.2.2.2 Cloth tensile strength (kgf)

Table 22 disclosed on tensile strength of the control and enzyme treated samples. From the values of this table it is clear that enzyme treated samples showed decrease in tensile strength. From Table 21 it is learnt that enzyme treatment decreased the cloth elongation, which is directly proportional to tensile strength. Further, it is also evident that decrease in warp-way tensile strength was greater in treated sample for treatment time of 30 minutes and 60 minutes, because warp yarns are coarser than weft and in principle, coarser

yarns have greater surface area with more hairiness for enzyme hydrolysis, which resulted into greater strength loss in tensile strength.

5.2.2.3 Cloth tear strength (g)

In general Table 23 showed the warp way tear strength of the test samples being higher than their corresponding weft way, may be because weft yarns were finer than the warp (Table 13). Moreover the ends were more compactly aligned in the test samples than the picks (Table 14). In principle denser fabrics have lower tear strength and it holds good with the results of the present study. Enzyme treated samples did show a trend of decrease in tear strength both in warp and weft directions. This may probably because, during enzyme treatment not only the surface hairiness was reduced but also there was progressive consolidation of yarns on wet treatment that in turn enhanced the cloth count. It is true that higher the cloth count lower is the tear strength. Though there was decrease in tear strength with increase in treatment time, the former values were not remarkably significant.

5.2.2.4 Cloth abrasion resistance (Cycles)

A perusal of Table 24 shows the abrasion resistance of the fabric samples. Abrasion is just one aspect of wear and tear that to some extent determines the durability of the cloth. Failure of abrasion resistance is mainly due to weakening of the structure caused by mechanical breakdown of individual fibres and which is substantially the same for all fibres. Only those fibres held firmly by tension and pressure sustain intensive abrasive action. The physical properties influencing the cloth abrasion resistance to a greater extent are yarn count and thickness and to some extent the sizing material that is held mechanically on the cloth surface. Among the test samples, control showed greater resistance to abrasion. This may be due to the presence of size that formed a thin film on the surface, inturn added to the cloth thickness thus resulting into better abrasion resistance, where as enzyme treated naturally coloured cotton samples exhibited relatively low resistance to abrasion may be because of removal of size during wet treatment, hydrolysis of cellulose, breaking of fibres on mechanical agitation during finishing process, where in the yarns became more finer, pliable, thus was loss in thickness.

5.2.2.5 Cloth drapability (%)

From Table 25 it can be concluded that enzymatic finish improved the drapability of naturally coloured linted cotton samples. Because enzyme treatment improved the softness of the khadi samples which is evident from decrease in bending length (Table 17) and increase in crease recovery angle (Table 18). This softness improved the drapability of the enzyme treated samples when compared to control, which was stiffer with longer bending path because of presence of sizing material that showed relatively poor drapability.

5.2.2.6 Cloth pilling (Ratings)

Table 26 discloses on pilling of the control and enzyme finished test samples. Pilling is a fabric surface fault characterizes by little pills of entangled fibre clinging close to the cloth surface. Under the influence of rubbing action loose and small fibres develop into small spherical bundles anchored to the fabric by a few unbroken fibres. From this table it is clear that enzyme finished samples showed excellent resistance to pilling. This may be because of the small fibres and fuzz present on the control fabric, which were removed during enzyme treatment resulting into a fabric with non fuzzy surface, where as control khadi sample showed moderate pilling because of fuzziness on the cloth surface.

5.3 Physical properties of softener treated naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric
5.3.1 Physical properties 5.3.1.1 Yarn Count (Ne)
Table 27 revealed that there was enhancement in both warp and weft yarn count of softener finished samples. It is because of physical modification of the fibre, wherein the softener acted on the fibre surface initially and then lowered the inter molecular attraction by penetrating into the fibre system and finally softened the fabric. Thus the warp and weft yarns might have become finer.

5.3.1.2 Cloth Count (Numerical expression)

Table 28 depicts about the cloth count of the softener finished samples. Density of softener finished samples was greater in both warp and weft direction than the control may be because, the treated fabric might have turned the yarns finer and due to wet treatment the yarn might have densely consolidated in the fabric. This increase was higher in samples treated with cationic softener and may be because the cationic softeners are known to impart high degree and an exceptional soft handle by their positively charged molecules which are deposited on the negatively charged fibre surface. Moreover the softness increased the yarn count that inturn lead to the compactness of weave.

5.3.1.3 Mass per unit area (g)

From Table 29 it is clear that naturally colour linted khadi fabric was relatively heavier at control than the softener finished samples. This may be because of presence of size on the fabric surface. Among the softener finished samples, silicone samples showed lesser weight may be because they are composed of finer yarns than cation samples, where the yarns were relatively coarser.

5.3.1.4 Cloth thickness (mm)

Table 30 revealed that cationic treatment increased the cloth thickness. This may be due to deposition of cationic softener which was fixed more for treatment time (30 min), whereas the silicone treated sample remained unchanged may be because there was no much deposition of silicone softener on the surface of the sample and further, during processing the superficial size might have been washed off. Hence, there was almost no change in the cloth thickness of silicone sample compared to control.

5.3.1.5 Cloth bending length (cm)

Table 31 revealed the bending length of warp-way and weft-way test samples. Bending length of the control sample was greater in both the directions but, warp-way bending path was longer than its weft-way. On the contrary, there was reduction in the bending path on application of softener in both directions but the difference between warpway and weft-way was not remarkable which may be because of the effect of softener that has imparted softness and smoothness to the finished fabric, thus making the fabric more pliable than the control fabric.

5.3.1.6 Cloth crease recovery angle (degree)

Table 32 showed the effect of softener finish on Crease recovery angle of the selected naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric, where the samples treated with cationic and silicone softeners showed gradual decrease in crease recovery angles in both warp and weft directions. This may be because of the effect of softener that reduced the stiffness by inter softening and deposition of hydrophobic hydrocarbons forming a thin film on the surface which is exceptionally soft. These results were also supported by the values of reduction in bending length on finishing presented in Table 31. However, a conclusion may be drawn from these results that is lower the bending length, soft and pliable is the fabric. And softer the fabric lower is the crease recovery angle.

5.3.1.7 Cloth dimensional stability (%)

A perusal of Table 33 showed the dimensional stability of control and softener finished samples. The warp-way shrinkage was found to be greater than weft-way at control, which may be because of removal of size applied during warping that inturn lead to relaxation of warp yarns, thus resulting into greater percent of shrinkage, that took place during the first wet treatment.

5.3.2 Functional properties 5.3.2.1 Cloth elongation (%)

Table 34 reflected the percentage elongation of the test samples. The naturally colour linted khadi fabric showed lower elongation per cent at control compared to softener finished samples, which may be because during the treatment the softeners form a thin film on the fabric surface and lowers the intermolecular attraction within the fibres which inturn strengthens the fibre and help to absorb more force resulting into greater cloth elongation per cent.

5.3.2.2 Cloth tensile strength (kgf)

Table 35 disclosed the tensile strength of control and softener finished test samples. From this table it was evident that cationic treated samples showed greater tensile strength than the sample treated with silicone. This may be because of greater per cent elongation observed with cationic softener which was evident from the values represented in Table 34.

5.3.2.3 Cloth tear strength (g)

In general Table 36 showed that the warp-way tear strength of the test samples was lower than their corresponding weft-way may be because of its yarn density which was found to be relatively higher than their weft. Moreover, while testing the warp-way tear strength, in reality the weft yarns are broken or torn application of sudden force. In other words, higher the yarn density (Table 28) lower is the tear strength. Among the test samples, softener treated samples showed higher tear strength because during the softener treatment it forms a thin layer on the cloth surface which inturn made the yarns more stronger and helped to withstand the force applied. Further, it may be stated that stiff yarns can be munched up or bunched easily than soft yarn, hence the latter showed better tear strength than their control.

5.3.2.4 Cloth abrasion resistance (cycles)

A perusal of Table 37 shows the abrasion resistance of the softener treated test samples. Among the test samples, control showed maximum resistance to abrasion may be because of composed of coarser yarns (Table 28), thicker (Table 30) and longer bending path (Table 31) which were the result of size deposited on cloth surface. Whereas during softener treatment much of size was washed off thus imparting soft and pliable structure to the fabric by internal softening also. Though softener treated samples showed less resistance to abrasion but per cent loss in mass was negligible compared to control. Thus, softener finish can be safely applied on the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric, which makes the fabric soft without altering much, the physical properties.

5.3.2.5 Cloth drapability (%)

From the Table 38 it can be concluded that softener treatment improved the drape quality of the naturally colour linted cotton khadi samples. This may be because of softener treatment that imparted excellent softness to the control sample which is evident from reduction in the bending path (Table 31) and lower crease recovery angle (Table 32) which inturn positively support the improvement in the drapability. On the other hand control khadi fabric showed relatively poor drapability because of stiffness.

5.3.2.6 Cloth pilling (ratings)

Table 39 discloses on pilling of control and softener treated colour linted cotton khadi sample. From this table it is clear that, softener finished samples showed slight pilling. This may be because of reduction in hairiness with compact fibre alignment all along the yarn axis. On the contrary the naturally coloured khadi sample showed moderate pilling at control because of fuzz present on the cloth surface.

VI. SUMMARY
The present research entitled Special finishes to improve resiliency and hand-feel of the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics was carried out with the objectives to explore the hand-feel of the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric by application of special finishes and to assess the impact of special finishes on the mechanical and functional properties on them. The naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric procured from Khadi Nekar Sahakari Sangh Niyamita, Uppin Betageri, Dharwad distric, were slected for the present study. The study consisted of two parts vi., (a) Application of special finishes and (b) Physical testing of treated samples. The section A delt with subjecting the naturally colour linted cotton khadi fabric for special finishes viz., crease resistant finish, enzymatic finish and softener finish. 10g of each Ciba KNITTEX FEL Ciba Sapmin KL New, Ultra tex PES and acetic acid (35g) formulated the receipe 10 g of each Ciba KNITTEX FEL Ciba Sapmin KL New, Ultra tex PES and acetic acid (35g) formed the recepie of crease resistance finish, where the test sample was treated for 10 min and 20 min separately. The enzymatic finish was given at two treatment time, 30 min and 60 min by treating the sample in a solution consisting of Ciba Tinogum 50p (20g), Acetic acid (35g) and cationic softener Alkamine cws (300g). The test samples where treated with softeners i.e. cationic softener Ciba Alkamine cus and silicone softener Ciba Ultraphil DCW with silica (50g) for single treatment time of 30 min. The section B dealt with physical testing where mechanical and functional properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with special finishes were tested. The experimental data was analyzed statistically by one-way ANOVA and correlation regression. The results of the present study are summarized as below:

Effect of crease resistant finish on physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric
Naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric treated with crease resistant finish showed a slight increase in yarn count and cloth count. There was increase in the cloth weight and cloth thickness of fabric samples on crease resistant treatment. Increase in cloth bending path and crease recovery angle was noticed in samples with crease resistant finish compared to control. Naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric showed stability for dimension when treated with crease resisting agent. The elongation per cent and tensile strength of naturally colour linted cotton fabric decrease in samples treated with crease resistant finish. There was a trend of decrease in tear strength on application of crease resistant finish. Resin finished samples showed lower resistance to abrasion. Crease resistant finished samples showed poor drapability compared to control.

Cloth bending length was negatively related to drapability of the fabric naturally coloured linted samples showed slight to moderate pilling. Naturally colour linted samples showed slight to moderate pilling.

Effect of enzymatic finish on physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric
Enzymatic treatment increased the yarn count and cloth count of the naturally colour linted cotton khadi fabric compared to control. There was decrease in thickness of the test samples on enzyme treatment. Decrease in cloth bending length and crease recovery was noticed in enzyme treated fabric samples. Colour linted cotton khadi samples attained dimensional stability after enzyme treatment. Enzyme treated test sample showed decrease in tear strength. There existed a negative relation slip between cloth count and tear strength. Resistance to abrasion decreased on enzyme treatment in terms of per cent increase in loss of thickness and mass/unit area. Cloth thickness is directly proportional to abrasion resistance. Enzyme treated samples showed better drapability compared to control and naturally colour linted fabric samples with enzymatic finish showed excellent resistance to pilling.

Effect of softener finished on physical properties of naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric
The naturally coloured cotton yarns became finer when treated with softeners. There was reduction in the cloth weight and cloth thickness of test samples on softener treatment. Significant decrease in cloth bending length and crease recovery angle was noticed in softener treated samples. Naturally colour linted cotton khadi samples attained dimensional stability on softener treatment. There was increase in percentage elongation and tensile strength of the test samples on softener treatment. Resistance to abrasion decreased on softener treatment, which was indicated by per cent increase in loss of thickness and mass per unit area. Significant improvement in drapability was observed on softener treated naturally coloured cotton fabrics compared to control. Softener treated fabric samples showed excellent resistance to pilling.

Implication and Recommendations

The present study on Special finishes to improve resiliency and hand-feel of the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics has given clear picture on the effect of special finishes viz., crease resistant, enzyme and softener finishes on the physical properties. Special finishes have improved the mechanical properties like yarn count, cloth count and cloth mass. Though there was slight decrease in functional properties viz., cloth elongation, cloth tensile strength and tear strength when treated with crease resistant and enzymatic finishes the effect was not drastic. However, the softener finish improved the elongation as well as tensile strength and tear strength, considerably. The information generated from the study is very useful for the agriculturists, cotton manufacturers, khadi industry, textile finishing, firms and consumers. The textile finishers can safely apply these finishes to the naturally cotton fabric to improve the hand-feel texture without altering their inherent mechanical properties. Further, enzymes and softeners are eco-friendly and resins being harmless to cellulose when applied @ 800 ppm. The coloured cotton is considered as economical not only because it fetches better price for the lint than white cotton, but also avoids a couple of water intensive preparatory processes like bleaching, dyeing and so on thus avoids water and air pollution directly or indirectly. Hence, naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric can be recommended as an eco-friendly textile and user friendly too. This is an unique opportunity to encourage the customers to buy naturally coloured cotton khadi products of better hand-feel, texture, softness and resiliency. On the other hand colour lint is the most suitable raw material for the khadi industry to produce variegated textile goods by combining with white cotton, silk and polyester.

Future Line of Work

The following further studies can be taken up: To assess the effect of water repellent finish on physical properties of naturally coloured cotton fabrics To assess the efficiency of the flame retardantancy on naturally coloured cottons To study the efficiency of anti-soil finish on naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric.

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SPECIAL FINISHES TO IMPROVE RESILIENCY AND HAND-FEEL OF THE NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON KHADI FABRIC
Sujata H. Mulasavalagi 2005
ABSTRACT
The present investigation entitled Special finishes to improve resiliency and handfeel of the naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric was carried out during 2003-05 at Dharwad. The naturally coloured cotton khadi fabric of brown variety DDCC-1, Gossypium arboreum was selected for the present study. This Khadi fabric was subjected for crease resistant, enzyme and softener finishes and the treated samples were then assessed for physical and functional properties. There was slight increase in yarn count, cloth count, thickness and considerable increase in bending length as well as crease recovery angle, when fabric treated with crease resistant finish, because of cross-linking of cellulosic chains. The enzyme treated test samples showed increase in yarn count, cloth count and drapability where as other mechanicl and functional properties remained almost unaltered. The cationic and silicone softeners during mechanical agitation removed the protruding staple fibres, thus making the yarn both softer and finer. Because of improvement in softness, there was positive impact of fabric properties like weight, thickness, bending path and crease recovery angle. Significant improvement in drapability and resistance to pilling was also noticed. However, cationic treated samples showed better results than the silicone softener.

Shailaja D. NAIK