2012-07-06 18:00:39 UTC

4ff7212f47c25 76.102.127.50 United States

THE

UNITED
AND

STATES

CANADA,

IN

1832,

1833, AND

1834.

BY

C, D. ARFWEDSON,

ESQ.

IN

TWO

VOLUMES.

VOL.

II.

LONDON:
RICHARD

BENTLEY,
v

NEW

BURLINGTON

STREET,

in ""vfcmar to

1834.

LONDON
F
SHOHKRI.

: fTKKKT, l.EK KRTKH

Jl-'N.,

4,

I.IUCKSTKIl

SQUARK.

7?

CONTENTS

THE

SECOND

VOLUME.

CHAPTER

I. Mitchell
"

Columbus Forest
"

"

Sodom

"

Fort

A
"

Dinner

in the

A Modern
"

Spartan and Athenian

Hut

Visit to the In
Party
"
"

dians in Alabama

of
"

Chief

"

Hunting
of
a

De
Indian

based Women
"

State of the
"

Indians

Costume
and

Chief

Religious

Notions
"

Character
to

of the Indians
"

An

Indian

Newspaper

Journey

Montgomery

A
1

Kentucky

Traveller

......

CHAPTER
Montgomery
"

II.
"

Departure
"

for Mobile
"

Alabama
"

River

"

Shipping
New
"

Cotton
"

Mobile

Packing

Cotton
"

Journey

to

Orleans

Steamboat
"

Conveyances
"

Lake Pontchartrain
"

New

Orleans

The

Levee

Inhabitants

Situation of the

IV

CONTENTS.

City

"

Sickness

"

Climate
"

"

Cholera

and

Yellow
"

Fever

"

A Yankee gislature

Speculation
........

The

8th of January

House

of Le
39

CHAPTER
The
"

III. for Louisville

"

Mississippi Louisiana Wood

"

"

Departure

"

Steamboats
to Mem

The
"

Journey
"

to Natchez
"

Journey

phis
"

Stations
........

Squatters

Indians in United

States
72

Memphis

CHAPTER

IV.
up
the
"

Continuation
Board
on

of the Journey
"

Mississippi
Gamblers Mouth
"

"

Fire
A

on

the

Steamboat
"

Passengers Madrid
"

Night

the

Mississippi
"

New

"

of the

Ohio

"

Golconda
"

Names

of Towns
"

The

River

Ohio

"

Louisville
"

Journey
"

to Cincinnati

Letter of

Benjamin Franklin
"

Cin
of

cinnati

Departure
"

for Wheeling
"

Ohio
"

River

north
"

Cincinnati

Portsmouth Island
"

Great Kenhawa
"

Logan
for
and

Blen-

nerhassett's
ton
"

Wheeling
"

Departure

Washing

Alleghany
.

Mountains

Baltimore

Ohio

Rail 107

road

CHAPTER Washington
The
"

V.

"

The

President's
"

House Senate

"

The
Hall
"

Capitol

"

Hall
Tariff
"

of Representatives

The

Congress
"

National

Debt
"

"

American

Statesmen

The

Pre
149

sident's Drawing-room

Inauguration

of the President

CHAPTER

VI.

Constitution

of the United

States

"

Misrepresentations

of

CONTENTS.

European Departure

Travellers
for New

"

Manners
York
"

and Fires

Customs
and

in America
"

"

Firemen

Fanati

cism

.........

172

CHAPTER
Prisons in the United
"

VII.
new

States, and the

"

Penitentiary system
"

Prison
"

at Singsing

Labour

of Prisoners
and

Prison
"

Disci Prison
"

pline
"

Prisons

at

Wethersfield

Auburn and
.

New

Benefits of Solitary Confinement

.

Employment
.

Re

sults of the different Prisons

.191

CHAPTER
The
"

VIII.
sacred
"

President's Person
"

not

Insult to the President

York

His Journey
Hawk

His

Reception
"

in New
"

and

Boston

"

Black
"

in New

York

Newport
"

Journey and

to Plymouth

Stage-coach
"

Companions
"

Whisky-punch
"

Temperance
"

Societies

Plymouth
"

Lowell
"

Cotton
The

Manufactories
.

Factory-girls

The

4th of July

5th of July

230

CHAPTER Departure
"

IX. Anecdote

for Albany
and
"

"

Steamboats
"

"

"

Albany
Railroad

Mohawk

Hudson

Railroad

Canal, Bank,

and

Companies

Railroads
Railroad
"

in the United Ballston Spa

"

States
Saratoga

"

Schenectady
Springs
254

and Saratoga

CHAPTER
Departure for Schenectady of
"

X.

"

Canal-boats
"

"

An

unpleasant
"

Birth
ney
on

"

History

Backwoodsman Little Falls

"

A Missionary
"

Jour
Trenton
"

Erie Canal
"

Utica

Trenton
"

"

Falls

Auburn

"

Geneva

"

Canandaiffua

Rochester

VI

CONTENTS.

Presbyterians
Niagara
"

"

Genesee
"

Fall Buffalo

"

Sam
Awful

Patch

"

Journey
.

to

Lockport

"

Storm

227

CHAPTER Falls of Niagara

"

XI.

"

Goat
"

Island

"

Dimensions for Montreal

"

of the Falls
"

Cruel
"

Amusement

Departure
"

Queenston
"

Brock's Monument Rideau

Lake
"

Ontario An

Oswego Village

Kingston
.

"

Canal

"

Prescott

Indian

312

CHAPTER Montreal
grants
"

XII. Convents
Population of Canada Departure
" "

"

Cathedral
"

"

"

Emi

Religion

Origin
and

of the Name

Cana

dians,
"

their Manners

Character
"

"

for

Quebec
"

Banks Diamond
"

of the St. Lawrence

"

Quebec
Diamond

Fortifications
"

Cape
Falls of the
"

View

from
"

Cape

Montmorency
"

Chaudi^re
"

Falls

Government
for New
"

of Canada
York
"

Condition

Country

Departure
"

Lake
"

Champlain Falls

Ticonderoga

Lake

George

Caldwell

Glen

332

CHAPTER

XIII.
Return and
to New

Mount
"

Vernon
"

"

Quaker Wedding
American
"

"

York
"

Italian Opera
Arts
"

Theatres and

Performers
"

Fine

Literature
"

Newspapers
"

Periodicals
Procession
"

Trades' The Ame

1822
354

Union
rican
to

Militia System
"

Burlesque

Army

Taxes

"

Government

Expenditure

from

1833

CHAPTER The of the United

XIV. and

States' Bank
"

General
"

Jackson

"

Removal
"

Deposits

Consequences

Deputations

The

Se-

CONTENTS.

Vii

nate

and

the

President
"

"

Safety
and

Fund
"

System State

"

Change
Post
June, for

in Public

Opinion

Whigs

Tories

of the

Office Department
1834
"

"Adjournment
to

of Congress,
"

30th

Tribute

the

Memory

of Lafayette

Departure

Europe

THE

UNITED
AND
IN 1832,

STATES
CANADA,
1833, AND

1834.

CHAPTER
The

I.

Indian, child of sorrow, Remnant race of a mighty

Grief is his, no Beams upon

ray of gladness his dwelling-place. TAPPAN.

ON
hoochee
which, has

the

eastern

bank
town

of the River
called
as

Chata-

is

small
so

Columbus,
year
1828,
as

founded

recently
so

the

not
a

yet attained
place

much

celebrity

to

have
the

allotted

to

it in all the

maps

of

United
not

States.
that my

Numbers
a

of

Americans

know

such

town

exists.

How

often, during

residence sprung*
a

in America,

have
of

I heard

of towns with

up

in the

midst
one,

wildernesses,
VOL.
II.

population

of
B

two,

COLUMBUS.

or

three trades

thousand
of

inhabitants,
kinds, schools,

commerce

and

various

courthouses,

stages

and

steamers,
as

churches
!

and

prisons ; all
towns

if created

by magic
same
or

Other

disappear
in

what

Europe

the with is formed

rapidity : in undone

the lapse of ages is here effected in as many It is, therefore, a peculiar study to months. be acquainted the names of all the with
towns,

new-born
:

or

dead,

in the

course

of

it requires a memory equal himself to that of Mezzofanti of Bologna

twelvemonth

to
re

member

all. Columbus

still ranks

among

the

smaller towns,

without
not

any pretension

to fame,

though
in

it may

be doomed rapid

to remain

long
popu
soon

obscurity. lation, wealth,

Its and

increase

in

trade, may

probably

bring

it

on

Captain about

the grand stage of the world. Hall visited this place in 1828,

His de the period of its foundation. to scription is interesting when compared four years and a half Columbus was what

subsequently.
unseasonable
:

few

extracts

may

not

be

COLUMBUS

IN

THE

YEAR

1828.

"

The

first thing
was
a

to

was

called

long

our attention which line cut through the

COLUMBUS.

coppice-wood
us

of oaks.
was

This

our

guide begged

to observe

to be

and
as

the brushwood
to leave
a

the principal street ; having been cut away so

stakes

along
middle

lane four feet wide, with small driven in at intervals, we could walk it easily enough. On reaching the

point, our friend, looking around him, exclaimed in raptures at the prospect of the future greatness of Columbus Here you :
*

are

in the centre

of the city !
a

'

He

assured

us

further, that, within be pathway would

very short period, this

into a street converted league in length. sixty yards wide, and one After threading our time way for some
"

amongst

the trees,

we

came

in sight, here and

there, of huts made partly of planks, partly of bark, and at last reached the principal cluster of houses, very few of which were above two or three weeks old. These buildings were of
all sizes, from
a

six feet box

a

or

house
There
to to
one
a

with
were

half

dozen

windows

cube, to a in front. belonging

was

three hotels, the sign of which, I could observe, still growing

the
street.

tree

middle windows,

of

untouched had Another

nailed in the
glazed fixed in
a

but the panes of glass were their places, merely for the time, by piece of putty
at

little thing

each

corner.

Every
B

COLUMBUS.

indicated
were

hurry.

As
course

none no one

of

the
was

city-lots
sure

yet sold, of

that

the spot upon would

which

he had

eventually
were

become

pitched his own.

his house Many of

the houses

in consequence
on

standing* built
wheels, the when frames lying such
as

trucks,
cannon are

of this under sort of low strong supported hauled

by, for away

avowed

purpose the land should of

houses
on were

of being be sold.

At least sixty
out

pointed ready At

to
answer

me,

in piles

the ground

to

the call of future of this strange about oaks,

even were

some purchasers. scene, the forest, which

parts here and

; and trees

consists
was

of

mixture
as

of
as

pines
ever some

growing

densely

in the most left standing. time

to
remove

cleared

streets

As

yet

there

had

been

no

trees,

and

many

the stumps of the felled that had been felled were

so

left in their

places ;

that

it

was

occa

Anvils to get along. sionally no easy matter heard were ringing away merrily at every corner axes, were ; while saws, and hammers,
seen

flashing amongst

the woods

all round."

COLUMBUS,

1832.

The

situation

of the town Alabama,

is

on

the confines
on

of Georgia

and

and

the

river

COLUMBUS.

Chatahoochee*,
the Gulph
steamers

which

is navigable

as

far

as

of Mexico.
are

This

river,

on

which

four

continually

plying*, has

been

of

such
may The among

infinite advantage to this place, that it town. already be called a flourishing population them exceeded
were

two

thousand,
that number

and

several The

might

be

denominated inhabitants the increase in the and

same

wealthy.
was

of the

augmenting I of commerce, proportion.

of

monthly,
was

and
was

assured,

Carpenters,
kind, could
were

masons, never

workmen

every
and

employment, without houses fast enough.

were

not

erect

Streets, which
out,
were

in 1828
so

only

marked waggons

now was

filled
to im

with

loaded

that it

next street
course

possible
traverses

to pass.

The

principal the

which of the has so

the city, following

rest, not
a

river, is, like the

paved,

but

many
such
a

shops
number

filled with
of neat

variety of goods, houses, and, finally, in

concourse

the

mornings
and

such

of it
can

people, hardly which

of the

Christians
be
was

Indians,
it is the
out
an

that
same

believed
only

that

street

marked
is

in 1828.
name.,

Most

signifies flowered which stones, on account of the quantity of stones of various colours found bottom of this river. I have several specimens of them in my at the possession.
*

Chatahoochee

Indian

COLUMBUS.

houses
few

were

of wood,

and

some

of brick

in the

English

Grecian
worst
one,

taste.

style, others The hotels are,

in the
town
:

again

in the

buildings
the staircase
to
a

perhaps, the in I resided

a

of which

bore

strong

re

semblance

fire-ladder, and

the bed-room,
had

although
no

with window-frames, panes of glass in them. Commerce is also on the increase, and provided
still
more

will

be

bouring
the

tract

flourishing*, when of land in Alabama,

the

the

neigh by bought

State
not

from

Indians,

but

had
tion.

yet quitted, is brought

they which into cultiva

the northern extremity of the town, the river forms several falls, which are made The available for working cotton-factories. goods
are

At

conveyed

by the steamers of the

river

to

sea

port at the mouth

called Apalafor
ex

chicola,

where

they

are

re-shipped

portation. The
to
a

manners

of the

people

were

uncouth

degree,

agreeable
to

remain

and in Columbus.

made which hazardous for

it equally
a

dis

civilized person
individuals, places
The

Many would

there called gentlemen,

receive
a

in other

very

different

appellation.
on
a

proximity
side of

of the Indian the river

territory

the other
little to

contributed

not

VILLAGE

OF

SODOM.

the

toleration

certain
account

the inhabitants of a among of loose persons, on number which lowest were the at morals ebb.
to the town,
on

Opposite
a
a

the Alabama

shore,

number village,

of

dissolute

for which

people had their lawless

founded pursuits

and
name

atrocious of

had misdeeds Scarcely Sodom. human

not

the procured day passed shed in its

without

some

blood

being

vicinity ; and,
each

satisfied with

murdering

other, they

and pursue lumbus. Peaceable

the river clandestinely, in Co their bloody vocation even

cross

attacked, not only but in their woods,

thus often citizens are in the streets in the or

own

houses
or

in vain

do

they

look

for reparation

the authorities of the town. from are exempt of Sodom

their village being ritory, and
as

protection from The delinquents

all prosecution,
on

situated under no boldness,

the Indian
control. alone

ter

such

Teme

rity, courage, and respect from these banditti

command
virtue,
con

mildness,
so

and

beauty,

are

in their eyes

many

temptible have
manner a

attributes, which

they conceive

they

The right to violate with impunity. by the fre of living has meanwhile,
occurrence

quent
a

of these atrocities, acquired which

degree

of insecurity,

obliges

every

VILLAGE

OF

SODOM.

one

to

carry prepared

arms

about for defence

his
at

person,
a

and

to

be

moment's

warning. When
laws

have

so

little power

to protect

the lives of citizens, necessity makes by personal gatory to obtain justice

and, when
curs,

it obli efforts ;
oc

this alternative generally

unfortunately

passions
as

and,
sides
most

consequence,
often

gain the ascendency, both on the contest

in

too

terminates

blood.

The
occa

trifling difference not unfrequently sions murders of the blackest dye, and
is consummated,

when

the offender hastens boasting across the river to Sodom, of his deed, and scoffing at the lamentations of the
the crime
victim. relations and friends of the murdered looks be in this village persons whose I saw in Calabria Paestum spoke the assassin : even
cannot

produce

similar monsters.
is not

With

such

neighbours,

it certainly

surprising
preserve

that the citizens of Columbus

a

should

certain

place but which,

of manners, uncouthness that has just sprung up

from its rapid

peculiar to in a forest,

progress, ought to have already disappeared, if the vicinity of had not to a certain degree retarded Sodom
as

As soon the advance of civilization. Indians have this part retired from

the

of the

ROAD

TO

FORT

MITCHELL.

en can country, and the State of Alabama force the observance in the of her laws, even districts, it is to be hoped that the remotest
scum

of mankind reduced
not to

now

occupying
and

Sodom

will
;

be and

obedience

till then

will Columbus

submission her own see

happy and tranquil, and civiliza population her citizens. tion diffusing* its light among few days, After remaining in this town a I continued
a

carriage
a

in the West my journey towards horse, accompanied drawn by one

by

boy

seven

years
can

in all America

between

Columbus told that

in the

No road old as guide. be compared with that I had and Fort Mitchell.
this
was

often been

the worst

piece this
to

of ground
account

Southern by woeful

States, and
experience,
:

I found,
no

be

by

means

exaggerated how
a

it is
can

real
move

matter

of surprise
one

vehicle Too

forward
every

hundred

yards.

often I lost
to guess

trace

of the road, and

had

the

path by certain fir-trees. On

incisions in the bark

one

of thick

occasion,

the

highway
pro

leading bably
horse

over

dilapidated
across

thrown

by

old bridge, the Indians,

both

and

river, and drowned.

precipitated carriage were it was a miracle that we

into the
were

not

10 Fort Mitchell of

FORT

MITCHELL.

is
a

small with

fort thrown
a

up

in

the middle where

tains
a

wood,

few

barracks,

the Federal company Indians before up

bouring shortly

generally main of soldiers to keep the neigh in check. This garrison had,
arrival, received orders
to

Government

my

towards and march the Nullification party having

assumed
was,
a a

break

South
about

Carolina,
this time

threatening

attitude.

Fort Mitchell
; but
a

therefore, for the present evacuated Indian, who had probably for young

long

while with

the white-skinned strangers regarded feelings of dislike, now determined to be

possession
time
to

revenged, and had taken formal him for some the fort. I saw
musket between
on

of
a

with

his

shoulder,
as

march

and

fro

the barracks,

if mounting

guard.
would
one

! No more approached have shone on any the rays of the sun

Woe

to him

who

who

to dispute the right of possession. ventured My himself with ap young guide amused proaching within pistol-shot, but returned

immediately,
his gun
;

the Indian he

having

and

would

already cocked infallibly have sent

world had

the timorous
not

enemy

to another

he

taken

to his heels in time.

noon

Towards
where
a

I arrived

at

small

hut,

few

dozen

intoxicated

Indians

had

SINGULAR

DINNER.

11

in bartering and were engaged assembled, several fine deer, recently killed, for a certain quantity in a state of They were of whisky. insensibility from the effect of liquor long the bargain white their
was

before

concluded

and

the

conscientious himself of
to

merchant

adroitly availed
to

situation,

turn

the

ex as

change

his

own

suredly, had deer been or

whisky depreciated so
appeared

advantage. brought a

Never, higher

price,

in value.

Both
the

parties, however,
contract,

satisfied with

and separated peaceably. In this hut, the only one for a distance of were twenty miles in the wood, preparations
for dinner, the most singular of its kind made I ever down In the middle to. sat of the table was placed a bottle of whisky, of which both host and hostess partook in no measured before they tasted any of the dishes.

quantity, Pigs' feet pickled in vinegar bacon course ; then followed

and
ance

formed

the first
molasses
;

with
a

the repast of milk his own

concluded and bread,

expression,

with which

superabund the landlord,

down washed with half a tumbler The landlady, a of whisky. to see was not a little surprised real Amazon,
to
use
a

person

refusing
in

such

delicacy
and

as

bacon

swimming

molasses,

shrugged

her

12

PICTURE

OF

TWO

TRAVELLERS.

But when, taste. perverted I also declined the soon eating afterwards, in whisky, her astonish black bread soaked

shoulders

at my

ment

had

no

bounds
that such

she

lost

all patience,
was

and

declared

treatment

beyond

after she had taken the trouble to endurance, Little pleased with each cook for strangers.

other,

we ever

separated
to return

desire
was

part, I felt no to this habitation, and for my

inter the wood at length cepted this miserable hovel from my view. Night I arrived at another approaching,

happy

when

hut

of nearly
room,

the

same

kind.
two
a

On

entering

the only warming

I perceived
at

other travellers fire, in atti

themselves

large

tudes perfectly corresponding

reminiscences.

with Trollopian

Rocking

backward

and

for

chairs, they had fixed their wooden dirty feet against the fire-place, almost in a horizontal direction their eyes, and with ward
on

amused

themselves

with
costume

spitting
was

continually recherche
:

in the fire. Their it consisted

not

in extremely

large inexpressibles, short boots

with with
on

grey woollen stockings, iron spurs, frock-coats sides, in which low concealed,
which

long the

pockets
were

their hands
cravats,

continually loose
a

high

collars,

hid

half

the

ears,

and

soft

dark

PICTURE

OF

TWO

TRAVELLERS.

13

brown

beaver shape

hat,

so

formed
put
on

that it fitted in
the head. There
in

whatever
was

it was

something1

excessively

characteristic

the whole exterior of these individuals ; and the haughty when, in addition, I discovered and
aristocratic

scended I entertained
men

they conde air with which to look at the last arrived stranger,

Had
a

very littledoubt that they were in the State. of the highest consequence I by chance met these great seigneurs at

lonely posthouse in the Scandinavian Pen insula, I should unquestionably have taken for some them assuming petty functionaries
the importance of office ; but, meeting States, and particularly them
in
an

in the
almost

United

could I pos part, what uninhabited they were aspirants to sibly surmise butihat honoured high dignity ? They me some with
a

glance, and commenced usual way, by informing knew, the This

a more

conversation
me,

in the

that the weather been extremely

had mild

I already what in the course of

day

old-fashioned beginning, familiar conversation

and agreeable. however, led to

the
com

institutions of the Southern

merce,

respecting States, their

and the state

jectsthey
notions,

appeared

expressing

of politics, on which sub to have clear and just I in terms their views

14

SPARTAN

AND

AN

ATHENIAN.

little expected
bama,

to

hear

in the woods

of Ala

and
more

which

excited

know honour

particularly At of speaking.
near,

curiosity to I had the to whom

my

length, when

mid

night drew fire gave us tered

and

the almost

extinguished
mus
me an

warning

to retire to rest, I

courage and he came. whence he; "and swered

the cal
a

asked " I am
I from

the

one

nearest

from

Sparta,"

Athens,"

rejoined

other.
names

I remained

silent, for the classi of nativity formed

of their places

their unclassical contrast singular with figures. A few minutes' silence was sufficient to consign as the Spartan well as the Athe
nian At
to

comfortable sleep. daybreak the whole house

The
two

was

again

in

motion.
route

travellers continued their I, intending to steer to the south, and

my
an

course

among

the Indians,

proceeded

in

opposite direction. Provided with a pretty description of the woods and swamps accurate I had to traverse, I mounted my horse without any other guide than a poor Indian, expelled
from his tribe, who, for
me
a

trifling remuneration,
to the residence
a

engaged

to conduct

of

certain Indian

chief, a day and

country

half's journey
variety
:

distant.

The

the dark

and dismal

no presented forests appeared

endless.

INDIANS.

15

Here

and

there

who, cisions in the trees ; but they never of hostility to the symptoms any

Indians,

few scattered Creek like myself, followed the in

I met
a

showed

Whites.

They and
a

appeared, on always bowed

the contrary, well disposed, and muttered

low tone, which

turn,

Once you!" Indian, who with a little resistance from an his seized the bridle of my horse and drew had my guide informed bow ; but, no sooner
fied
"

and which be with Peace

my guide never he afterwards told

something failed to
me

in
re

signi only T met

him

that

was

unarmed,

and

that

conse

quently

placed myself under the safeguard of his weapon Men, than he dropped the Red
and

wished

me

prosperous

journey.

At night we bivouacked on a hill, making up The sad and a large fire that lasted all night. did wild shouts of the Indians in the wood
not
cease

till morning

; and

the effect of the

trees
more

reverberation
once

between
me as

the
to the

than of these

deceived
More

distance than
time
to

savages.

experienced each

guide shook his head listen to the sound,

myself, my I told him to

which
usual

quite
threw
one

near.

In
on

the

appeared he Indian way,

me

himself

approached,

the ground, to listen if any and then fell asleep as com-

16

HUT

OF

AN

INDIAN

CHIEF.

posedly as The stump

to

if he had

been
us

in his
as
a

own

bed.
was

which
a

served

pillow

soft and pleasant cushion, and bed to which he had been ac a the ground from infancy. Thus the customed passed

his taste

night. A*t dawn

before the

we sun

our continued had reached a

journey;
the

and,

meridian,

I stopped end
of my
man

at

solitary hut, the wished-for At the door stood an excursion.

; it was

elderly being

the chief himself, who,

on

of acquainted with the object my to show me every mark of visit, hastened He had, in the course hospitality. of his

made

life,been
was

several
as

times

at

Washington,

and

besides,

chief of his tribe, in constant

with the

acquired language to make out of the English what Introduced into the hut, was said to him.
I
soon

communication he had means

which sufficient knowledge

Whites,

by

found and
a

women

scarcely any covering : in mending bows they were engaged and The arrival of a willows. cutting weeping

wrapped floor, while others

part

in the midst myself of six host of children, the greater in blankets the and lying on

had

stranger
moment
;

suspended but,
as

their Indians

occupation
never

for

betray

any

HUT

OF

AN

INDIAN

CHIEF.

17

symptoms
they may

of surprise, however astonished in reality be, they soon subdued

their childish curiosity, and continued their work with perfect indifference. The women remained concerned
little on the floor, as motionless as if a daily visiter had arrived. In of the place which in a corner, it was

order to take possession had been assigned to me absolutely

stretched led the way

the females necessary to step over in every direction. The old man

without their taking any notice in pro of him, and I followed his example found at first he had silence. I thought
brought
me

into

an

hospital, and
were race,
so

that the in unfortunate taken

care :

dividuals beings of, for

present of his own the

the

many

humanely of being
as

purpose
more

seemed
are

probable,
warriors

cured Indian

this

chiefs

generally both But how great was

and

physicians. when,
me

his usual composure,

these
were

my he and

surprise

with

informed

six

ordinary

disagreeable
swarm

that all females

his wives, and the offspring ! In truth, a

for
a

of children his number

respectable

single

man

to

take

a collection of ugly what The oldest would, in no part of the civilized world, have passed for any thing but a witch,

And of! charge and dirty faces !

VOL.

II.

18

HUT

OF

AN

INDIAN

CHIEF.

and age,

the

youngest,
as
a

about beauty

twenty

years

of

considered
was
a

dians,

so

repulsive,

the In among that I considered

to be seated
near

myself not the door. This

littlefortunate

palace

of

an

Indian
one

chief

was

built of

logs, loosely
nailed at had free sary
in

laid
ends,
:

the
access

and another, upon between the wind which

crevices
were neces

these

every

admission unknown.

for the particularly being absolutely of light, windows floor, the Instead of a boarded respect,

ground house
ing The chairs

itself was
was

parted
room
on

The strewed with sand. off into two divisions, form each side of the entrance.
of

one

furniture
of the
a

consisted
simplest

three

wooden
an

construction,
as

table, and
are

clock, such

old itinerant hawkers But where

was

in the habit

of selling.

be asked by some the kitchen ? will probably I put the same careful housekeeper. ques that tion to my host, and received for answer when
make

hungry
use no

I must

be

my

own

cook,

and

has

Where
must

Necessity of the fire in the yard. law : she makes every thing of man. forks are to be had, the fingers no
as
a

serve
no

substitute.

These

Indians
every

had

fixed

hour

for their meals

; but

HUT

OF

AN

INDIAN

CHIEF.

19

one

helped

out

himself when he felt hungry, with One of the women regarding the hour.

got up in the middle of the night to appease her cravings, by taking bit of venison, a which she cut out of a dead deer, and roasted at the fire. After finishing her repast, at which

the luxury of forks

to rest.

was

not

introduced,

she returned

As
went

dark, the whole family down on to bed, that is,laid themselves

soon

as

it grew

the ground.
some
were

They
lying

had

no

particular

place

distances
me
a

apart. in the corner

place,

in groups, host My

others at short had allotted to

as
a

adjoiningroom

outside the house a torch, made of a piece of wood impregnated reason ; this not for what with rosin, I know however, was assist of no little circumstance,
resting

and

fixed

ance

to

me,

as

it enabled

me

to

survey the

the

group
roof.
some

of beings

that
to
me

slept under
were

same

Nearest

sleeping together, and

with in rows.

eight children, behind them two

of the wives

six other children, placed The remaining members across them of the family, together with the aged chief him self, occupied the other room, where, in the of the night, a violent contest between two of the females, which for
course
c

arose
a

while

20

HUT

OF

AN

INDIAN

CHIEF.

threatened
was soon

the most

quelled half sleepy and highly-excited

issued his commands
pressions
or

It serious consequences. by the interference of the

husband,

who

in

no

tone

of voice.

ex very measured In my immediate

similar scene occurred vicinity luckily no but a nursery, with all its accompaniments,

has

not less unpleasant. other inconveniences One honoured of the children in particular

discordant extremely with an divided into several parts, commen concert, The and lasting* till sunrise. cing at sunset

the

company

mother
music

had,

no

doubt, and
so

often
was

heard
not

the

same

performed, disturbed by it ; tinued

musical

in the

least
con

that

the

harmony
till the by
not

without

interruption,

little
exer

urchin, hoarse tion, ceased his notes. only disagreeable motion another,

and fatigued But this was

the

circumstance;

the continual

and

restlessness of the children

contact

young hausted,
scene,

namely, brats. My

with
was

added these dirty

at

patience obliged

last

ex

and

was

to retire from

the
by

which
one.

I did without

being
so

perceived
serene,

any that

The

night

was

clear and

I lay down

in the open

passage,

await

ing the approach

of dawn. occupation of Indians

con-

The

principal

HUNTING

PARTY.

21
to

sists in hunting attend

one

Anxious stags and deer. of these hunts, I availed myself

on the opportunity of accompanying, lowing day, the chief and four other Indians,

of the fol

We of these excursions. upon one horses, and provided ourselves all mounted of them had also a kind of with rifles ; some
who
went

spear

or

lance,

which

they
have

handled

with
even

a a

dexterity Hetman

that would

astonished
were

The horses of Cossacks. but full of fire, not unlike northern

small,

ponies and hardly

be

the

Canadian
when

breed
once

; and

could

checked
generally

put

in motion.

Indians
but
me

old

man

ride without had furnished

bearing appendage
a

saddle ; himself and

a

the with
con

something
venient

resemblance
:

to this
-

it

stuffed with which was the back of the horse with two strong cords. before the horses had scarcely mounted We

tree, saddle hay, and fastened on

was
a

showed

symptoms way,

chief led the

the thickest

The of wild restlessness. his steed into and pushed

and then came In vain did I several times try to urge my horse out of the track of the first, and to make animal the others deploy
on

part of the wood : I followed him, by one. the other Indians, one

the

ground

the

remained

perfectly

insensible

to

all

22

HUNTING

PARTY.

on as the the mouth well as efforts on my loins, and blindly to follow the continued bushes, Neither swamps, steps of the leader.

prostrate

trees,

nor

rivulets,

arrested

our

progress. Indians The

had their
a

kept

their

seats

as
a

if they
:

never

been

off the back

were

of

horse

all

motions

steadiness

which

bespoke graceful, and have an obliged would of horsemanship

to

equerry
these

to yield the palm

untaught
with
on one or

vided lean

Although cavaliers. unpro them stirrups, I often observed side bushes,

to

avoid

contact

with

branches
librium

and

preserve

merely

by pressure

their equi against the loins

were
con

of the horse ; otherwise

their bodies

stantly

in

perpendicular

position,

In one stiffto the eye. appearing held the reins, and a gun, always in the other by no a circumstance
"

without hand they cocked,

means

pleasant

to
a

the

person

riding ahead,
a

before. had

The
mean

hounds, while times

we

hundred

yards

commenced

barking,
ears

sound
a

at

all
:

delightful to the
as

of
as

sportsman

followed them

closely

ing circles in the wood of no not to lose the traces anxious

possible, mak small diameter,

of the stags.

Within

an

hour

from

the

time

of starting,

FONDNESS

OF

INDIANS

FOR

STRONG

LIQUORS.

23

two

balls had already done their duty, fellinga of stags to the ground
cut
:

couple

they

were

im
out

mediately
and
were

up, and

the entrails taken

given

to the dogs,
across

thrown

after which the bodies The the horses' backs.

Indians and
ness we

seated themselves on home returned with

we

the lifelessdeer, the

same

swift
as

that

had

come,

for the

purpose,

they said, of making ratory to eating it.

the flesh tender

prepa

The
in the

North

American
east

Indians,

still found have, nearly

"

woods

of the Mississippi,
to

from

their contiguity
virtuous

the Whites,

lost all the

qualities of the

Red

Men,"

whilst imbibing

and propensities help being struck hideous

all the vicious habits One cannot of civilized man.

with the appearance

of the about

figures, living and

of
some

wandering

in the neighbourhood
towns,

of the southern

dressed

around
sion

them.

rags, carelessly thrown Ruined by an inordinate pas

in

its for strong liquors, they sell, under influence, the very country for which their fought, and have no other ambition ancestors that of passing state of delirium. constitutions
become

than

through
The

lifein

perpetual

poison strong
: are

naturally

undermines their frames

enervated,

their eyes

continually

24

DEBASED

STATE

OF

THE

INDIANS.

half-closed:
very
name
"

and

these

are

the

men

at

whose
trem

the white who

never

invaders

formerly without
"

bled

appeared death

spread
men,
"

ing desolation

and

around

these

I say,

are

now

of objects of

commiseration

beggars

instead

commanders.
to the calm

How

de

spicable they appear

spectator, who

attached
was

to

the word

Indian

every

thing

that

cruel, and

grand ! States United

and

yet every thing that was noble Many European a visiting the
re-crosses

the

Atlantic

under

the

impression,
Indians
on

produced
the

cated

by meeting highway, in or

intoxi
some

of

the newly
as

of men, settled towns, that this race described in old records of America, is to
in the

tally extinct
continent;

northern

parts

of that
are

that those miserable

still remaining

all
met

like the with

on

so objects

frequently

the roads

in the Southern

is so appearance whose This conclusion, ings of the philanthropist. harmo very general, is far from although

States, and revolting to the feel

nizing with my observations. Is it just to judge of the whole

nation

character

of

by

few dissolute, and Just

so

expelled, individuals ?

probably with the In

begging

dians.
on

It is not

the outcasts
in the towns

seen

the roads

and

that constitute

DEBASED

STATE

OF

THE

INDIANS.

25

the

Indian

(theywere
Alabama,

yet to be found at least in 1832) in the woods of Georgia, Mississippi, and who,
race:
men

are

of a sanguinary although inspire respect ; wrho have ings of Indians,

but also
a

disposition, the
common

still

fail
of their these
the

portion

virtues.

Of
the

the

tribes then inhabiting

States,
greatest

Choctaws

had

undergone

from change, and had suffered most immoderate indulgence in ardent spirits: then follow the Creeks, whom I visited ; the Chickasaws

and

Cherokees

still preserving

their

manners. costume, original character, and The emigration of Whites to their neighbour hood had already begun to produce a baneful

effect

on

the latter
save

one

alternative children

to mained from being water,"

these

only re of the forest

call "fire

destroyed

by what

they

of this they took and advantage, when fleeing from civilization, and concealing themselves in wild regions to the West of the Mississippi. the
course

These

removals and

took

place

in

of the next

in the beginning

of the following Each

race

year.
one or

has

several

chiefs, dis

tinguished
They
are

by undaunted

generally thing royal in their looks

courage and bravery. handsome, having some and noble in their

26

DUTIES

OF

INDIAN

CHIEFS.

carriage, and
care

than
even

taste and attired with more Some are other Indians. wealthy,
are a

having
they vating

number
whom

of slaves, with

whom

traffic, or

they

employ

in culti

fields of Indian corn, My host had more wigwams.

their adjoiningthan
twenty

Negroes,
who,

besides
own

numberless
account,

Negro-women,
any day

by his
to
or

might

be

sold
seven

itinerant

slave-dealers

for at A

least

eight

thousand
only
so

dollars.

chief

possesses
to
once

authority

long

as

he is able

inspire the multitude with respect ; that His duty lost, his life is no longer safe.

is to administer deliver

justicemong a
at

his vassals, to

speeches
to those

advice

who
case

their meetings, require it, and

of hostilities.

give to head

to

their warriors The by old

man,

in

at whose

house the

I lodged,

was

nature

endowed
to produce

with

necessary

effect on

qualifications Indian mul an

titude, and to keep it within bounds : he spoke he did, his sentences little, but, when were short
to

and

abrupt,

and

the He
a

words
never

calculated uttered
any

make

impression. adding

thing

without

comparison
and

equally

striking, poetical and from the nearest rivulets, woods,

stars,

chiefly derived
as moon.

such objects,
sun,

streams,

and

His

COSTUME

OF

"HIEF.

27 that

daily costume

varied other Indians, it was soigne

;

very

little from

of

only rather grand when

with
a

cleaner

and

more

but, upon
or

occasions,

held, meetings were his head he adorned

thers, threw mock
pearls,
a

going

when to battle, of fea

variety

shooting-bag,

across

richly set with his shoulders, fastened an his the

been

equally rich belt round his waist, painted face with different colours, and brandished redoubtable laid aside.
of
a

tomahawk
His

which

had

long

turban

costume ordinary of red or blue cotton

consisted
stuff, one

end of which, trimmed with white fringe, hung down The breast and neck over the left ear. bare : on his feet he wore were yellow mo
cassins, garnished

with mock

pearls. The
were

legs,

from

the knee

to the instep,

covered

with

yellow leggings

of skin, fastened round

the calf

by garters, also embroidered with mock pearls, and from which hung yellow and blue fringe
on

the outside
a

of the leg.

Next

wore

kind
a

of apron

fastened
over

his skin, he before and be

a

hind

by

tight belt;
with festoons

this

blue

calico

shirt,

trimmed
into

formed

lining, cotton white bottom both at and

another round the chest ; about the waist was belt, and over the whole a blanket, which he carried like
a

preux

Chevalier

of old.

28

COSTUME

OF

COMMON

INDIANS.

The

other
nor

Indians
mocassins

had
:

generally

neither
them

leggings
with
women no

I often

found

other
wore

The covering than blankets. red or blue-striped petticoats, down

:

reaching with
as

half-way

the
were wore

leg,

trimmed
as

white fringe the feet. Some

the legs
of them

bare

well

skins part had

across

the shoulders, sheets,

even

but the greater in which

white

blankets, Their

themselves. hung

long
and

and

they wrapped hair jet-black

round
care

in disorder

uncombed
no

the

face ; indeed, they bestowed

upon often it. The six in
a

whatever

ears
row,

were

decorated began

with
at the

rings,
upper of the

which
to
saw

part, and
ear.

continued

the extremity
some

Frequently
silver

I
or

of

these

dam the

sels with nostrils.

brass

rings

through

Indians
robust.

are

generally
are

tall, well-made,

They

Men
from

; their

colour

erroneously called being copper- brown,

and Red
far

Their large black eyes sparkle red. is straight and well-formed, with fire: the nose but all have high cheek-bones. Like the
women,

their hair
over

is jet black

and

straight,
to the

flowing
face
not
a

the shoulders,

and

giving which

wildness

of expression possess.

it does
are

otherwise

Their

motions

INDIAN

WOMEN.

29

pleasing- : I

never

could

sufficiently admire
and

their graceful attitude, while standing the other. placing one leg across The and
women,

in general, may

be called ugly,

smile. of them This absence of vivacity, invariably an attri bute of the fair sex, may be easily accounted
never saw
one

always I sleepy.

appear

dejected, sombre,

and

is for, if the condition of the Indian women They are treated taken into consideration.

the subordinate beings, slaves, with whom husband may do what he pleases, and never inspire him with any of those lofty and noble I do sentiments peculiar to civilized man.
as

not

mean

to say that Indians

a

are

strangers

to

love ; but their love is only

wild sensuality,

which, once The number they

can

satiated, gives place to contempt. of wives is not limited, provided Parents give away maintain them.
to

their daughters asking them to their feelings.

even

the

first

comer,

without

if the choice is agreeable Marriage are ceremonies

entirely out bride enters

is considered his slave.

as of the question : as soon the house of the bridegroom,

the
she

his wife, and, from that moment,

The
even

is

so

looks upon labour as debasing, This opinion to beg. if he be doomed prevalent, that if an individual has any

Indian

30

INDIAN

WOMEN.

than that of hunting* and occupation a as contemptible roving, he is expelled being, or is unceremoniously scalped by tra

other

velling
compels

companions.

Necessity

sometimes
a

them

to enter

the service of

White

but this is only resorted to at a great distance Stretched on the ground, from other Indians. to his wives the master gives his commands

and Negroes, respecting the cultivation of his These fields and the concerns of the house. hesitate to obey, well knowing never that dis obedience neously

would
punished,

be severely
and laws.

and

instanta
is

that

the husband
one

to no amenable only is the unhappy

Upon

occasion
to

her
slave

lord
"

otherwise it is when the husband seeks

woman a

wife allowed than in the

address

quality of is intoxicated,
Here
the

and

that she is shows intitled to respect from her spouse : here she shows that degrading slavery has not altoge ther stifled the natural mildness of her sex. She invariably succeeds in parting the drunken men, who, left to themselves, would otherwise kill each other. For this act of generosity, what is her reward ? Contempt, unmitigated his recovers the husband contempt, when
senses.

unconsciously Indian subdued

quarrel.

1 had

frequent

conversations

with

my

host

RELIGIOUS

NOTIONS

OF

INDIANS.

31

on

the

of subject
with
a

the religious creed

to

of In

dians,

view

obtain
on

some

clearer
; subject
answers

ideas and but

was,

better information

the

his all I could elucidate from I already knew, that the what
a

Indians

believe in

Spirit, who rules over the world, and that the dead go to the abode of their deceased forefathers in the West, where,
Divine

in the bosom happiness actions

rant
cannot
on

of the Great
to
are

Spirit, they
their good absolutely

enjoy
or

proportionate

evil

earth.

They

igno
and
more
"

of the

sacredness

of the Sabbath, should any be

conceive
on

pious

that

man why day than

Sunday

is to-day,

to-morrow,

other. the day

My after

to-morrow,"
sun

said
one
we

the

old chief to me;

as

"

the
:

rises

morning
make

well

as

the next
in
our

why

should

any

difference
himself

worship,
ways the Revenge law Not

when
same

the worshipped ?" among

is al

is permitted

them

the

of retribution

being

only must they have even go farther in their vindictive ideas : if Indian, for instance, kills an a white man,
either his blood
man

strictly observed. blood for blood ; they

or

that

of any

other

white this from

must

atone

for the crime. does

not

Happily, them

vindictiveness

prevent

32

VINDICTIVENESS

OF

INDIANS,

mild and peaceable qualities, possessing many hardly reconcileable in the same person with is more Nothing the vice just mentioned.

with pitality : he
these laws

sacred

an

Indian

than

the rites of hos

permit

will rather
to

lose life than

be

infringed.

Even

his most

inveterate

enemy

roof, if he throws

finds protection under his himself freely and with full appealing
to

into his power, confidence laws of hospitality. I happened

to

the

visit these
a

Indians

at

an

inauspicious

moment,
some

having
of their
was

for
race

time
a

misunderstandingone prevailed between

which

said
not

to

and have

white emigrant, been amicably

to

adjusted,
of in

though the

altogether

the satisfaction Indian

came,

injuredIndian.

This

with several others, to the residence As after my arrival. of the chief, the day him, he ordered me saw as soon the old man to go into the other tone in a commanding company
room

of the

hut, informing
my

me,

at the

same

time, that, if I set

foot outside

the door

before he had
not
answer

given

for my
cause

his permission, he would I learned after safety.

wards
which
at

the
was,

of this unexpected command, that he feared the Indian would,

the

sight

of

white

man,

be

unable

to

INDIAN

CAROUSAL.

33

subdue
was

his
so

not

thirst for revenge. confined but that

My
I

prison

every

thing

the walls

that passed outside having, as I before observed, through

could see the house ;

large

I perceived every which arrived. motion of those who had just Round a large fire, out continually burning

apertures,

side the house, the Indians seated themselves the ground, cross-legged, in the Turkish man
ner women :

on

the

men

were

nearest

to the fire, and

the

behind, wrapped in blan kets and shivering with cold. They conversed a long while in short and half broken sentences,
and

children

intermixed of
a

with cries not unlike the neighing horse : in these they were joinedby the
who

women,

added

their soft voices to theirs.

At and,

began to circulate, last the whisky-bottle impossible to once put in motion, it was
its progress.

check
none

Night
to

came

on,

felt disposed
never

landlord

retire, the permitting the bottle to remain

was,

but still hospitable

the empty; became men

consequence intoxicated,
a

that

all the

and began

howling
surpas
seen.

and
sed

gesticulating in I had anything

manner

ever

which heard or

often thought

and
not

that they would this would probably have

women
II.

killeach other, happened had

the
VOL.

interfered, and

succeeded
I"

in

34

CHEROKEE

JOURNAL.

parting* tinued
departed The
scene
me.

the

combatants. when

Thus
one

they

con

till morning*,

after another of the females.

under
was

the guidance unique, variety

men

and

highly

interest the wild

ing to

The

of colours,

howling the dark the

women,

of the

shades fire all left

"

and the slavish looks of the the loneliness of the wood, of the night, and the flames of
a

deep

impression

on

my

of Indian hospitality. mind Before I take leave of this

not

subject,
a

I must

omit

mentioning,

as

singular
small

circum
place

stance,

that

in New

Echota,
part

situated Georgia, and

a

in the northern
a

of the State of
in the English

is journal published

Cherokee

language.

The
to

publisher the

is

native the

Indian,
manners

belonging

Cherokee

and characteristics of which He had already immediately are recognised. he invented a certain age, when attained
know the letters of the language, having no ledge ; the idea of any other but his own Cherokee him on of writing only struck

race,

hearing

several
over

Whites

one

day

boast

of their that Red

com

superiority they
Men could
never

the Indians, and many things

adding, the
in

do

which

dared
to

attempt,
a

particularly
so

mitting

paper

conversation,

as

to

CHEROKEE

PRINTING

TYPES.

35

it understood make He distant parts.

not

by all
was

even

in the most

refute this,

or

mortified that he could at least that he could not

were as

show

that

the

Indians

capable

of

doing He

things as the Whites. extraordinary determined, however, to try ifit was not
At

possible.

first,he

saw

no

other chance

of

or a sign than to make executing* his project figure for every sound, which he partly learnt fa by heart himself, partly gave to his own

; but, after work mily to learn and remember he found that ing at it a whole twelvemonth,

the

to amounted already impossible several thousands, and that it was He now began to retain them in the memory. into parts, and then dis to divide the words

number

of signs

syllables might be ap Exulting in this plied to a variety of words. his exertions with discovery, he continued covered that the
same

unremitting

zeal, and
to

directed sounds,

particularly
covered
at

the

his attention dis thus and

guage.
month, sounds
at

last all the syllables in the lan After working upon this plan for a

he
to

had

diminished

the

present

eighty-five, of which He first wrote consists.

cut

of number the language them

in

sand, and

afterwards finished by

out

the signs them such

D

in wood,
as

printing

they

36

PARTING

FROM

THE

INDIAN

CHIEF.

now

are

in the Journal

called

the CHEROKEE

PHCENIX.

On

the

third
taking

day,
leave

left

my

hospitable
his
nu

landlord,
merous man

of him for

and
ever.

family, hinted
an

probably intention

The

old

of crossing by

the At he like

lantic, to
meant

visit the

Redcoats,
;
a

which

the

English
was
never

but
mere

this whim

project,
of the into
execu

many
ment,

others, and He

mo

will has

be

carried

tion.

now

of the woods of going he ment pose

to

west

to some removed probably of the Mississippi, instead ; and

Europe

from

that

retire

is not

likely to venture
an

for the pur

of visiting followed
me,

unknown
mean

He

in the

civilized world. time, for a con

in his charac

siderable distance, repeating, how teristic language, much

friendship and
in what

the
fra

Red

Man

felt for the White,

ternal way

concord

through
a

he muttered
and

now their pursue would I parted from him, life. When farewell in the Indian language,

they

turned

his horse

with

the with

lightning. guide,
a

Again

alone
course

rapidity of Indian my

I directed
to

view

get

my into a

road

southward, with leading to Mont

dusk
no
on

gomery,

where following day,

I arrived about having met with

the

other ad-

KENTUCKY

TRAVELLER.

37 described

ventures

but such

as

I have

already

in my visit to the Indian chief. I passed the next night in a hut, at which He was traveller had just arrived. another
a
on

jovial and
horseback,

talkative
from
a

man,

returning

home

journeyof

several hun

dred miles, to Kentucky, whither he had g'one he had spent to visit his mother, with whom
several weeks. He

gave

me

some

valuable
state
a

information

agriculture
with

respecting the soil and States, in the Southern

he appeared
was

of

subject
these

which

quite familiar ; but confined

on

his conversation topics

:

not

to

he

also enlarged clearness

and perspicuity with in persons

serts,

politics, with a to be met seldom

several

residing in woods hundred miles from

and
any

de
civi

He had not only a lized part of the country. of the constitution of his perfect knowledge State, its leading men, own and their princi ples, but component
was

thoroughly parts

with the acquainted of the Federal Government,

its prerogatives and duties, the qualifications Jackson, the senti and faults of President
ments

of every

member plans
often
a

of Congress, of different
in

and

the

calculations

and
are

parties.

Such

men

found

the
or

United
refined

States

it is not

dazzling

exterior,

38

ARRIVAL

AT

MONTGOMERY.

manners,

which

distinguish
the

the

man

of intel politician

lect in that
is often
are seen

country:

greatest

in the simplest
in

discussed
More

the
once

garb, and hut remotest

did
I meet

politics
in

the

woods.

than with

in the
went

Western
the
and
name

States
"

persons and

who

by

of

half horse

half alligator,"*
been called vaga

in Europe

would

have

bonds,

yet

possessing the

accurate

information

concerning

government

and

the

politics

of the country.

On
in

the

following
for

morning Montgomery,

I took and

my

seat

the my

stage
new

parted

with
me

acquaintance, with
a

who,

on

bidding
disinter of the
to

farewell,

frankness
to the
me as
an

and

ested

hospitality States, many

peculiar

people

Southern
spend
as

gave months

invitation
at

I pleased

his

residence The tion pass

in the heart
to

of Florida.

road
of that
over

Montgomery
Augusta

is only
to

repeti
I

from

Columbus.
part

in

silence

the disagreeable
at
once

of
my

this

journey, and

will

conduct

reader
A

to Montgomery.

term

expressive

of the utmost

uncouthness

of

manner.

CHAPTER

II.

Iu human

hearts what
"

bolder thought
on

can

Than

man's

Where

presumption is to-morrow ? in another

to-morrow's

rise, dawn?
YOUNG.

world.

OF
1

all the
none

towns
so

in

the

Southern
as

States,
Montgo induce
a

know
:

uncomfortable

mery

its exterior
to

has
there,

nothing
and the
man

to

stranger
the

stay

the

manners

of
of

inhabitants

betoken

lowest

state

civilization.

The

life of

has
place
;

very

little

value

in this lately erected

the mixed
rise
towns to

composition many would

but
are

of the

population
which
in

gives other

frightful

deeds,

be severely here

punished

by the authorities,
without

perpetrated
A few

any
my

serious

consequences.
a

days
had

before

arrival, between

misunderstandirlg

taken

place

two

gamblers. other
in

One
the

of the
of

parties the

attacked
and

the

middle

street,

40

GAMBLERS.

wounded

him

sary, prepared

: the very dangerously adver for the aggression, drew his

poniard,
nent.

and Both

pierced
expired

the heart

of his oppo

amidst
arms.

the

clasped
lost
no

in each time

other's

struggle, Their friends

to

in applying

for redress

the

authorities
protection they
were

of the town, of the laws

and appealed in similar cases gamblers

were
as

to the

; but not

answered

that

within
as

the pale of the

were

law, and

that,

long
upon

murders

exclusively

committed

persons

of that class, without

disturbing

any

of the peaceable
assassins
or
were were

inhabitants
use

of the city, the

at liberty to

From any other weapons. bounds to scenes no of blood

:

their poniards that hour, there and

ven

geance
murders

every

day

added

to the catalogue
man

of

in Alabama.

Any
not

is considered

imprudent

who

does
him,

continually

carry

dagger
moment.

about

to fight for his life at any

The
so

to appeared disagreeable that I was

town

me

in every

glad

soon

respect to leave

it, and
steamer

lost

in embarking by the first for Mobile. The distance is about

no

time

five hundred
twice
count

miles,

being

rather

more on

than
ac

the

length

of the

way

by land,

of the many

windings

of the river, often

THE

RIVER

ALABAMA.

41

the curves resembling is one Alabama The

rivers in the

of

twisting
most

snake.

of
:

the

romantic

South

its lofty, ever-varying,

and
summer mense

highly
season,

cultivated

banks

must,

in

the Im

present the finest views. quantities of wild ducks and

were

wild the

turkeys
paddles through
least

constantly

disturbed

by

of the steamboat,

but

we

often passed causing

met

flocks of them
At
one

without place
we

the
a

fright.

with

number
which

of deer

showed

across the river, swimming little fear of the steamer, so

that

the steersman
one

touch
ended

of them.

purposely A chace

allowed followed,
some

her to

which
of the
in the

in the boat

swimming

down running animals, and drowning

them

agitated waves. This trip occupied in and nights, owing

time

no
a

less than

four days
to the

lost in taking

on

great measure board numberless

bales

of cotton there where

are

at different landing-places.

Of these,
this river,

nearly
may

one

hundred

on

planters

is then conveyed I counted at Mobile.

at which

ship their produce, which in a few hours to the market

at least forty such

places

the steamboat

the rendered fatigued tedious, and

pages

stopped : these stop both long and voyage the passengers

before

42

SHIPPING

COTTON.

half the distance

was

accomplished.

The

load

ing of cotton
the banks

was

often attended

being

high

and

with difficulty, The vessel steep.

lying with one side as close as possible to the dropped from above, rising bank, the bales were
stones and bushes, and tumbling rolling over from place to place, tillthey reached the deck, It was amu which shook under the weight.

down a dis sing to behold these bales coming feet above the hundred tance of about one

surface of the water, sliding rather slowly at first, and that then upsetting every thing arrested got
was

their progress.
near

Negro

had

once

too

one

of these

carried

with

rolling bales, and incredible velocity at least

a re

fifty feet down

cumbent another him at

the hill, all the time in in contact posture, until, coming

with

bale, it checked the

same

his

course,
a

but

time

such

shock,
on

gave that he deck

in

changed
a

his position, and

arrived

being in the least sitting attitude, without by the rapid descent. Fires were incommoded
at

night at different points on shore, to be taken on a as signal that cotton was had a complete board ; and at last the steamer
kindled arriving at Mobile, con cargo, which, on our bales. thousand sisted of no fewer than one
In the
course

of this trip

we

passed

several

NEW

VILLAGES.

43

small places, which

too

insignificant

elsewhere would for mention, but

have been
were

here

and of note, after taking considered important board on there a certain quantity of cotton. Washington,
non, or

Yernon,
and

Selma,
Fort

Catawba,
are or

Can
towns,
not

Clairborn,
rather

Minims,
close to

villages, situated

far

be said, nothing can except that they consist of a few log-houses, the greater number of which have stores and Vernon was cotton only six warehouses.
from

the river, of which

old, and the remainder, with the ex had not seen win many ception of Catawba, is said to have been the former ters. Catawba
months capital of Alabama,
as
a

and

is known

in Indian

history

Men de the Red place where feated the Whites A with great slaughter. garrison had been placed in the fort, to keep

tribes of In watchful eye on the numerous dians laying waste the neighbouring country, they had with undaunted courage and whom
a

repulsed presented manded

several

times.

One
the

day,

an

Indian de his
the

himself

before

fort, and

was admittance, which granted, being merely motive curiosity to see fortifications. Several in others came same

the
to
sus-

way,

one

by

one,

without

appearing
not

have any connexion,

Their

was object

44

MOBILE.

pected, until
mittance, and

tolerable number

dispersed

had gained ad in several themselves

parts of the fort : they then, all of a sudden, fell upon the unprepared soldiers. The gates forced, and a number were of Indians who
were

waiting
the
men.

outside

rushed

in, and

mas

sacred
white Not

whole

garrison,

scalping

all the

far from

Catawba
Helen
one

of the steamer left Montgomery

was were run

passed the wreck McGregor, had which day before us, and
we

foul of by

another

steamer.

Both

under
so

was

high pressure, and the concussion McGregor violent, that the Helen
before

began None

to sink

the panic

had

subsided.
but

of

the

passengers

perished,
was

the

greater part of the cargo lost. or

At

either damaged

length

we

the

morning small, but appears

arrived at Mobile, The of the fifth day.

comfortable. The

early
town

in
is

confla

it has been grations, with which visited of late years, have contributed to its embellish
ment.

Instead

of the
are

former
now

log-huts,
to

rows

of fine brick houses where

once narrow

be

seen,

and
were
no

and
now

dirty

streets

observed,
small

the stranger
wide

finds, to his well-planned

surprise,

and

tho-

MOBILE.

45

roughfares,
which
form

made
a

of oyster

and

other

shells, the

compact
a

substance.

Near

port there is
in this part

continual

bustle, all buildings exclusively front of stores,

of

consisting
and

warehouses, stand pyramids

offices, in

which

of cotton-bales. in Europe
as a

Mobile

is well known

place

of considerable tageous Alabama that

sort
name.

trade.

It has
mouth

most

advan

situation

at the

of the great

river, which

intersects

the State of
of every

Agricultural
down

produce and

is carried
not
a

this stream, wealth

contri

butes

little to the

of the citizens
Ala

and bama

the is

flourishing
one

state

of the town.

of the principal

cotton-growing peculiarly is wanted sufficient and

States
adapted but
an

in the Union,

its soil being

for that increased

crop.

Nothing

population,

and

capital to Tennessee,

unite the two

rivers, Alabama
or

either by
a

railroad

canal, which

would
well as That

open with

communication

with

Ohio,

as

South

Carolina.
is neither
must

this scheme
to be

unlikely
any
one

executed,

visionary be obvious

nor

to

who

takes

the trouble

of considering
of these

the rapid

States

progress and for the last ten

improvement

years.

The

only ob
is the

stacle that Mobile

has to contend

with

46 difficulty of
river being
access

MOBILE.

by water,

the mouth

of the

full of sand-banks, which prevent large vessels from the port: mer entering are therefore obliged to load goods in chants small schooners, which convey them to larger vessels, lying port.
stance

about is rather
:

twenty
an

miles

outside

the

This

unfortunate
a

circum both
of

for Mobile
and

causing

waste

time
to

and giving encouragement money, in town the idea of founding another

situation,

better

similar expences where be avoided. Independently might of this inconvenience, is rather unhealthy the town during the the

heat greater

of

summer,

away This

part

of

drives which the inhabitants.

emigration
town

another

gave rise to the building of called Blakely, on the opposite

the latter pos
its rival, it
was soon
re

side of the river ; but, although sessed could

many
not

advantages
with

over

contend

it, and

duced
The

to insignificance.

principal article of
of which
so

commerce
as were
one

in Mobile hundred

is cotton,
and

thirty
course

thousand
of 1832. ago,

many bales

the
ten

Who

would

in shipped have thought, of pro

years duce from eighteen

that

the

exportation

this little place would ,have risen hundred increase per cent ? The

PACKING

COTTON.

47

go on in the same rapid proportion as heretofore ; still I do not see thing to any from doubling- or perhaps this town prevent
cannot

trebling
course

its exportation

of

cotton

in

the

of

century.

The

produce

shipped

here is not considered of quite so good quality Orleans, and prices as that shipped at New how far this inferiority vary in consequence:
is real,
custom,
or

merely
I will

the
not

effect of

and prejudice
to

at Mobile merchants Orleans another at New

pretend have one

say.

The

opinion, those is correct the

more

; but which

be must cotton-manufacturer bales contain judge. The Alabama the those four

best than

from
or

South

Carolina,

and

five hundred
space

pounds,

weigh about but take no whose three hun arriving

of I
ex
a

greater weight

than

those

of Carolina,
to

is from and

three hundred

dred
at

fifty pounds, being

the bales by
are

on

Mobile

steam-engine
amined
one

pressed before they

the

power

exported.

of these

steam-engines,

the size of six hundred reduced is about every day ; the expence sixty cents The warehouses, built on the same per bale.

thus

which bales

plan

as

those at Augusta,

are

capable

of

con

taining ten thousand

I
was

bales.

continually

dissuaded

from

proceed-

48

STEAMER

TO

PONTCHARTRAIN.

ing

by

mail

to

New

Orleans,

on

account

of

the badness
possible
to

of the road, which

renders

it im
was

fix

time

for arrival, and

recommended tion, however,

to

proceed

by

sea.

In opposi in the

to this advice,

1 started

oblique direction through projecting points of land of the States a and Mississippi, and traverses of Alabama stage. road cuts
an

The

in

filled with wToods and swamps. On arriving at the landing-place, I found a steam country

boat

intending

to proceed

with

the mail-bags
was

toLakePontchartrain
going down, repair, with
on one

; but she

still under taken

at work,

of her chimneys
were

which

two

smiths

hard Seeing

hammering

and

repairing.
supposed at hand,

her

in

this state, I naturally

parture
went
on was

that her de and therefore

a

not

near

short

shore with the intention had The captain walk. departure,

boldness consulting when,
in coming

of taking

hardly

ob
pro

served my bably at my
sion without
tone

offended
to
a

conclu in
a

him,

he cried out

of voice distinguished
"

by any
a

thing

but

mildness : Take away

motion
!"
no

Excellent

the

planks

less ! passenger ! Put in the wheels

I lost
to make

time in returning, and

endeavoured that,
as

the captain

understand

the

STEAMBOAT

ANNOYANCES.

49

boat
"

was

not

yet ready,

she could not

start.

Who

told you that?"

excited
"

asked

the gallant tar,

stillmore

"people
what

tend to understand
about."

pre now-a-days they know nothing

The
vessel

sentence
was

was

hardly finished before the

The

in motion.
a

raised

the and sides by chains, but so loosely and imperfectly, that, like the pendulum of a clock, it swung

in

twinkling,

chimney fastened to

was

to and

fro every twenty yards that the boat issued through Soot and smoke advanced.

apertures deck and

almost

covered still left unrepaired, and cabin with a dense cloud, at times
protest against this very little avail with a Neither indeed was it To

suffocating.
was

annoyance
man

of

of

this stamp.

any complaint, as the wor possible to make thy captain, feeling his eyes rather heavy effect of drinking, had retired to his birth, and said to his black servant, whilst
from

the

locking the door,

to disturb
me

"

Woe

to him

who

ventures

!
me,

If the boat

should

take fire,

but not otherwise." There were three other passengers on board besides laughed at this, and amused myself, who you may

wake

themselves I ought
VOL.

with

playing

here to observe,
II.

all night. that these individuals

at

cards

50

BURSTING

OF

BOILERS.

of a society established in the States, whose occupa Southern and Western tion is exclusively directed to gambling pur
were

members

suits.

Some

of

the
on

worthy

fraternity
or

are

invariably

found
to

board

steamboats,
are

in

other places The resort.

which

strangers

likely to

profits of their ill-gotten gains divided among them. are afterwards Finding that nothing could be clone towards

improving
I retired repose

our

to

present disagreeable situation, rest, in hopes of finding some fatiguing

a

after my of

journey.
when
cannon,
a

I
a

was

on

the

point

taking

nap,

the report of resembling all inclination to sleep.

cause was
on

shock, dispelled
if the
boiler, I

Uncertain
of the

not

the

bursting

deck, where, to my no small surprise, if nothing quiet, as particular had all was The only person I could find was happened. in a carpenter, making plugs of wood : on
went

quiring swered
was

the

cause

of the last shock,

"

he

an

very
one

only
same

drily and laconically, Oh, it At of the boilers that burst."

the

heard, another shock was The carpenter pre and presently a third. his work. tended not to hear, and continued
moment

ought not to be called, since all the boilers had burst, and placed

I asked

if the captain

LAKE

PONTCHARTRATN.

both

boat and
a

passengers

in danger

of mak

"Why sudden aerial voyage. so?" replied he; "does not the vessel go as before ? It is not the first time the boilers have burst. I have As
soon

ing

hardly time to make plugs fast enough. hole is observed in the boiler, a a as
in, and it
answers

plug

is put

the

purpose

perfectly well." The steamboat

slowly continued her voyage without stopping, and steered her course within the rocks, along the shore on the
a

meanwhile

right side, having left. The entrance

from
Lake

of islands on the number Pontchartrain to Lake

is

Borgne

rather

narrow

and

it is often shoals, which difficultto avoid. first lake is very ex The tensive, having the appearance of a sea : its
waters
are

full of dangerous

ing them

easily agitated, the least wind rais The steam to the height of waves. shore, and landed visited during the New

boat stopped at the southern

passengers
warm

at

season

place much by people from

Orleans,

for the convenience

Several of sea-bathing. large houses are built for that purpose on the bathe banks both sexes of the lake, where together,
as

at Lueg,

in Switzerland.
me

Creoles often told

sant

how

extremely
was, E

plea

this sociable

way

of bathing

and

52

SOCIABLE

BATHING.

assured
in the The

me
summer

that the most

were are

agreeable
in
a

moments
manner.

spent in

this

bathers

attired Whole and

mostly

of flannel.

peculiar dress, families walk there

young ladies
as

for hours

together,

are

and courted inconvenience handsome,

was one

flirt in the
as

in

with drawing-room.

bath

little

A little,

black-eyed day
she up
in

Creole, in New
to
me

Orleans, how
much and the

describing
found in

pleasure summed

this recreation,
been

all she the

had

saying

on

subject
with

following
:
"

perfect extacy
c'est
un

expressed words, Mais, Monsieur, c'est terrestreT'

charmant, The

paradis

distance hence

to New

Orleans
in twelve

is about
minutes

six miles, which

I travelled

by

means

of

steam-carriage.
swamp,

The

road

passes
on

by

continual

and

it is only
ac

approaching

the town

that the ground

quires solidity. This circumstance sufficiently in for the fevers always accounts prevalent these parts, the idea of which may be said to be
inseparable New from

the
is

name

of New
in
a

Orleans.
semicircle,
one

Orleans
the shore

built the

along hundred

of

Mississippi,
its mouth its

and
one

five miles

from from

at

Balize, and
with

thousand

junction
the

the River

Ohio.

The

streets

follow

NEW

ORLEANS.

53

curve

of

the

stream,

and
the

are

crossed

by

others
one

running*
was

from

Mississippi. when

Only

of them
was

paved

I visited the

city, but I

assured
same

undergo
short
one

the
:
a

that the others would in the course process of a

was

time

beginning

already
when

of the

principal

streets

in made I left New

conse

Orleans.
quence

Paving
to this town, to
: move

is of the

greatest for after rain it was

without

next

to impossible

sinking

knee-

deep
dust

in mud
was

after

long drought
when

again, the
were

intolerable,

spectacles

indispensable Mud The and dust

requisites to prevent
were

blindness.

the only alternatives. city is divided into two parts, the town
the old French
of which
name
a

itself,or bourgs,

town,

and

the Fau
nearest

the

northern

and
town.

goes by the old town sides and

on

of the American

The three

is

parallelogram,

formed

on

by

trees, streets, wide planted with the fourth inclosed by the Mississippi.
can

help observing the wide ference there exists in every thing between
stranger

No

dif the

French the town

and
:

Creole, and the American part of they appear like two different cities,
by

inhabited

different

natives,

different principles and

seen
a

laws.

by governed In the first are only

one

number

of wooden

houses,

54

NEW

ORLEANS.

story

high, containing
into the
street

three

or

four

rooms,

opening doors.
years
are

by

means

Those

that

have

been

of glassbuilt of late

of brick, and
more

the town

of

plastered, which gives European than American

appearance. of New

Creoles, who inhabit the old parts Orleans, are generally satisfied with
not

little,and
stance,

fond of trouble.
a

This
and

circum

the

effect of

warm on

relaxing-

climate,

the appearance has received of this part of the city, which very littleimprovement.
operates

sensibly

In

the American
the
to

advances, bounds no
Possessing know how

again, every thingYankees setting enterprising part

of

improvements

every

kind.
they

considerable
to

capital, which
to

lay

out

advantage,
commerce

their
must

activity in every insure the success The

extensive
source

branch

of

and

they anticipate. which lucrative cotton trade, the

of wealth
to

principal is drawing

New

Orleans,

gradually
now seems

towards
to have

the American

quarter, and

self there for good. and

are

Attempts

established it have been made

ren

making the

to divide

the trade, by
a

dering
with doubt

Southern

Faubourg
;

free

port,

commodious whether

warehouses

but

I much

the

can object

be accomplished

PORT

OF

NEW

ORLEANS.

55

in

the

manner

proposed

by

sanguine

spe

culators. In the
town
mean

time, the American

is flourishing1 and degree. Large astonishing and in

a

part of the increasing in a most brick

are

buildings finished

warehouses

spring

up, and

shorter time than Europeans require to lay foundations. Streets are filledwith goods, principally bales of cotton ; and between these
American
a

merchants hurry, continual and the

are

seen

running

in

their

schemes
ton
was

price of cot from one topic of conversation

to

speculations.

minds The

filled with

end

of the street

rise occupied

the

other ; and a fall or dealers so intensely, that

the
became
a

their

countenances

at

last

actual

barometers,

in which

easily discern the preceding

one,
or

if the

could physiognomist difference in price since

day

was

one-quarter,

one-half,

two

cents

per pound.

The
Levee,

port
a

of New unpaved dust,

one

Orleans
street,

is called

the

wide

always
to

filled
man

with

on and dwelling-houses

of stores and side a row has been erected. The rapidi ty of the river prevents the building of a pier,
so

mud or beast ;

equally

annoying

common

and running

convenient in
a

in other towns

of

America,

straight line from

the

56

VARIOUS

NATIONS

AT

NEW

ORLEANS.

shore, and

so

wide

that

ships

may

load

and

both sides. on unload with the greatest ease Instead of such a structure (unquestionably in tiers leaving more space), the ships lie
alongside four deep. the
A

harbour,

sometimes port
on

three offers
a

or

interesting
river,

visit to the spectacle, both

very

account

of the of

washing majestically

its shores, and

the

spoken. One day I remarked individuals of the fol English, French, lowing nations : Americans,
many

different languages

there

Scotch,

Spaniards,

Swedes,

Germans,

Irish,

Italians, Russians, Mexicans, This

manners,

Creoles, Indians, Negroes,

and

Brazilians.

mixture

of languages,

costumes,

and

singular
ness

of

one the scene rendered that I ever witnessed. the Italians, the proud

of the most liveli The

air of

the

Spaniards, composure
nances

the

elasticity of the French,

the

of the

English,

the stern

counte

of the Indians,

the slavish
altogether

conduct
a

of

the Negroes, ing contrast, dinary

formed that it

such

strik

was

not

little extraor

to find them

united
where

in

If there
form

is

place

single point. it is possible to

one

idea of the con any thing like a correct fusion of tongues at the Tower of Babel, it Orleans. Contemplate this certainly is New

VARIOUS

NATIONS

AT

NEW

ORLEANS.

57

polite and volatile Frenchmen, of do they not appear Creoles if as grinning life dancing ? Yon they through passed
group of
"

der

stalk

few

Spaniards

"

does

not

their
this

gait denote group

on a

their national

pride ?

And

of robust pile
of

Swedish
bar-iron,

mariners,

encamped by
"

brought Peninsula

them what
con

from forms

the
the

Scandinavian
topic of

their

interesting

versation metal of

but

the

country

that produces
a

this

Here

the fruiterer exhibits

raises

variety

fruit, and

pyramids

of

bananas,

what

ed on There, organ, top.

pineapples, ",c. stretch voracity these South Americans, the half-ripe fruit. the ground, devour
lemons,
an

oranges, See with

Italian is performing

while two Yonder,

a

monkeys

are

miserable dancing on the

on

spreads

itinerant Yankee again, an different articles on the thousand

a

that he sells them at exclaiming ground, loss, merely for the sake of ensuring custom.

Here,

coffee is sold by Negro

women

; there,

oysters are swallowed ; there, Indians are drain ing their whisky-bottle, after having given a
small

quantity

to

their wives

and

There,

tucky,

is a countryman again, has just sold his crop, who

children. from Ken and has

his pocket

full of money,

which

he is anxious

58

POPULATION

OF

NEW

ORLEANS.

either to lose
as

or

to double

at

soon

as

evening

arrives.

gaming-house Finally, listen

and
Iris;h the

to the noise of the Mulatto,

women,

Negro,

offering their goods and

for sale, and

rolling of carts
the weight

sinking waggons, from all parts of produce

under of the

world.

Who

merable The population

will deny that these afford innu for ? subjects the painter and the poet of the
to

cording thousand during

very
than

the four

census

ac city amounted, of 1830, to forty-eight

hundred

the winter little short

and fifty-six souls ; it may probably be months, More of sixty thousand.

half

are as

ny, such

natives of Africa, or their proge Mulattoes and Quarteroons ; and

the the other half consists of Whites, of whom Creoles form a greater proportion than settled having I remember Americans. often heard in Europe

the

name

"

Creole"

criminately to all people however, a great mistake;

applied indis This is, of colour.

for it means
a

free

native of the country, and belongs exclusively born in the neighbourhood. to white people In conversation, for instance, it is often said,
"

Creole

of New
"

Orleans,"

"

Creole

of

St. Croix,"
implies
a

Creole of Guadaloupe,"
born
in these

which
A

person

places.
it
as

Creole of New

Orleans

considers

degrad-

PASSIONATE

TEMPER

OF

CREOLES.

59

ing to be taken
as
an

for

Mulatto the

or

Quarteroon,
States

inhabitant

of

Northern

fails, both in word never would, and and deed, to show this distinction. Descending from
a

mixed

race

of Spaniards inherited

and

French,

the Creoles

have

all the such

as

character

istics of their forefathers,

jealousy,

impetuosity an that of temper, often and drives them to the commission of acts which be severely in other parts of the globe would punished, though
At

they

are

here
it
was

passed
not

over

unnoticed.
to
see

playhouses
attack each

unusual

persons daggers. I
was

other with

drawn

myself

an

eye-witness House,

of two

scenes

in the French

Opera

which
of the

left on

iny

mind

strong

impression

passionate

of the and vindictive disposition On both occasions, a dispute arose

two

Creoles.
between
of subject
a

well-dressed
;
a

gentlemen

on

the

their seats

and
are

sharp expression then followed the drawing by every

one

led to

retort,

carried

of dirks, which Orleans. at New

a

One

of the combatants

received

very

severe

wound gerous

in the shoulder, and the other a dan in the side, which cut put his life in
soon
as

jeopardy.As
been

the bleeding

heroes had

carried out

of the house

by their friends,

CO

CREOLE

WOMEN.

all sensation
as

ceased, and the play

was

resumed
another

if nothing
at
a

had

happened.

On
was

occasion,

public ball, which

people

attended
gen

by the
tlemen

principal

of the city, two

had with

misunderstanding

lady, honour
from

whom

both
They

wished

respecting a to have the

of dancing. the ball-room

a

retired immediately

to settle their quarrel

with

balls of The large

different kind.
are

Creoles
bright

in general

handsome,

with
an

black

eyes, fine figure, and

agreeable the French elegantly.

a

carriage.
tournure,

They and

have

something

of

relaxing

dress tastefully and The climate, however, produces in their move effect, observable indicate tainted indolence, and in their with a kind of debility.

ments,

which

conversation,

in Eng themselves able to express is a kind of patois, which lish ; their French little at first, until the ear a me annoyed

Few

are

became

more

familiarized

with

the

strange

sound.
as

they
from

are

duals with
may
race,

.Quarteroons,
descended Whites;

called,

are

indivi

Negroes,

intermixed they

after several

generations,

be said to be
retaining

three-fourths

of the latter

blood

only one-fourth of the Negro Many in their veins. as are of them

QUARTEROONS.

61

white, if not whiter, than

a

the Creoles ; discover they

are

so

that

stranger

can

hardly general,

the

African obtained

extraction.

In

have

their freedom
same

; stillthey

not
as

entitled to the
free citizens.

privileges

and

respect

It is enough

that

they

are

of

sable

origin sub
on

(even though

in the sixth
all the

to generation)

ject them
the slave. marriages

to

contempt

bestowed

barbarous

enactment

forbids

between

these

and

the

Whites,
The
The

declaring consequence
unfortunate

all

such may
be

alliances

illegal.
foreseen.

easily

Quarteroon
an

girls, many

of whom

have
an

received
ornament

education
any

to

lady,

be which would imbibe belief a has made

to
a

from

infancy, that the Creator beings, belonging

Whites, go and through
that

them infe

subordinate
rior to
are

race

the

therefore

they

of ceremony marriage, or to receive the usual benediction They far from igno from a clergyman. are
rant

not

fit to

the

of the obligations

both as and perform females ; but, however spotless their conduct,

a

and duties of a wife, becomes respectable

leaves them happens
to

certain degree
a

of disgrace If
a

never
man

for

moment.

longer admitted a marry into the society of Creoles ; from that instant

white Quarteroon, he is no

62

QUARTEROONS.

He he is reduced to a level with the former. Orleans, or then live en retraite in New must quit the country for another

part, where
to

dif his

ferent customs

permit

him

restore

to

wife that respect which she often deserves, and by a she has only been deprived of which

foolish

prejudice.
divided into girls are of course I have now only spoken of classes
"

Quarteroon
several

the first. There

are

some

whose

morals

are

; but their appearance certainly objectionable bespeak nothing* of the kind. and demeanour

stranger

would

take them The

for respectable

and

virtuous

women.

boldness

effrontery

graded be found

in to females peculiar Paris are or station in London in New

and this de
not to

Orleans.

Unless
with

is previously

acquainted

person the life they

in their conduct lead, nothing excites sus impossible It is almost to believe picion. are that these bashful females other than to be. Much what they represent themselves

America is said all over beauty, but I confess

of their extraordinary I
was

not

little dis
are

appointed.
who

Undoubtedly,
be

there

but called handsome, they certainly are not, in my eyes, at least. T did not see one that might be called so. They

may

many beautiful

SITUATION

OF

NEW

ORLEANS.

63

have

in general

large dark
are

black
portant and

hair ; but they

eyes, and im deficient in two

is often

or

black

qualities

the

voice

harsh exactly told

us

and the figure not unpleasant, has Shakspeare that of a Taglioni.

that
woman
a

nation No city in the United York, ception of New tageous

situation

excellent thing in the fasci ;" and we all acknowledge form. of a symmetrical gentle voice is
"

an

States, with the ex has a more advan for commerce than New

Orleans.

rivers which traverse States bring the Western thither, without from distances of several difficulty, produce
thousand tribute, in munications miles.
a

The

immense

Canals
measure,

and

railroads

con

great

to facilitate com

partly formed
may
now

by Nature

so

that

New

Orleans

be said to be in direct

communication

with
of

the Canadas
an

and

New

navigation, effected by canals, which unite the Ohio with Lake Erie, and Lake Erie with the Hudson. In the

York,

by

means

inland

March, sand

February, of January, months it is not uncommon to see one

lying
one

and
thou
in

flat boats* I counted

at

one

time

the

harbour.
*

day

fifty steamboats

Boats

manner,,

When

made of logs put together in a loose and slovenly down to New Orleans. which produce is brought the goods are disposed of, the boat is also sold for fuel.
on

64
near

YELLOW

FEVER.

the bridge.
or

Ships

are

continually

go ingout, towed thing indicates the most

in vity.

by steamers.
extraordinary

comingEvery
acti

is already in the South New is in the North, York what gradually all trade from the neighbouring monopolizing
towns,

New

Orleans

and

it would

even

surpass

the latter, if

the climate

did not

check

its increase.

This unfortunate circumstance, which com for to absent themselves pels the inhabitants four in the year, tends to months about check, in a sensible degree, the rapid advance Orleans. The of New yellow fever appears fixed its abode in this city ; and if to have disease the contagious any other reaches
American

shore, it is None,
can

sure

to pay

visit to

this place.
to

without

being

seasoned

the

climate,

with
summer

during

the heat of

any safety remain once ; but, having

of the yellow
fever,

gone
no

through

the ordeal
need

apprehensions

be

entertained

of

Creoles are not exposed to it ; second attack. but strangers and emigrants often fallvictims The sickly season to its influence. generally September, and does in August or commences
not
cease

tilla

sharp

frost sets

in, when

all

diseases that they

disappear
broke
out,

with
often

the
in

same
a

rapidity

single

night.

WEATHER

AT

NEW

ORLEANS.

65

Winter
though

is exempt

from

the atmosphere it is trying as pleasant

to it.

disorders, any is damp, and as

to
an no

al
un

individual doubt

not

accustomed unhealthy sing from

swamps,
so

I have

that the
ri

vapours which the Mississippi peculiarly

are

continually

and

the

adjoining
night
measure,

at injurious
a

to

weak

constitutions, will, in

great
are

be obviated

when

these

swamps

drained,

feels the effect of cultivation. and the ground To accomplish this desirable end, numerous canals have already been cut, and others are

daily making, which, is to be hoped, have

the climate, and

when
a

completed, will, it influence on material altogether dimi will perhaps Orleans that New
be synonymous.

if they

do

not

the epidemic, extinguish nish its virulence so much and

yellow

fever will

no

more

During

the five weeks

was

I spent

in this city,

the weather

uninterruptedly

of my with the exception sojourn I never having a remember spent so warm January as this. In the middle of the day, The mornings even the heat was oppressive.

mild, and, in Naples,

had
were

delightful
often
so warm,

freshness,
that
one

but

the

nights

risk sleep with open visited at least once

VOL.

might without The city was windows. by thundera week

F

II.

66

RAVAGES

OF

DISEASE.

storms,

so

awfully
to

magnificent

that they must

be
were

heard

be

duly

generally
that whole

and these appreciated; heavy by such attended threatened Night

and
to

showers, away the

they
city.

sweep

day, mil
; tired
no

lions of musquitoes doubt of the

a

sported

about

common

manifest strangers,
treme

decided
to

of Creoles, they for that of preference

blood

whom

they

are

source never

of

ex

and

continual

annoyance,

failing

to
are

leave such
often

marks

of their visits, that these with

are

confounded
of

those

by

which
distin

votaries

Bacchus

generally

guished.

New

Orleans

had, this

season,

been

severely
; the

of visited with diseases yellow fever and cholera

various

kinds

having
which

alternately
terror

raged
even

with among danger.

violence

spread hitherto
; neither

those None

who

had

braved

every
nor

escaped

Creole
Death

stranger, neither White invaded every family, and

nor

Black.

depopulated

every
to

fifth house
stop

it

was

out

of human the

power

its ravages.
to

Half

inhabitants
country,

fled but
was

in dismay
even

the

neighbouring
assailed.

there they

were

Scarcely

there time to take leave of intimate bury the dead, or to read a prayer

friends, to
over

their

RAVAGES

OF

DISEASE.

67

Whole graves. like lamps, by

night
was

families
a

were

extinguished
air. from

breath

of

Yes,

one

sufficient to sweep

the earth

father, mother,
arms,

children, dying their

in each other's
even

before
were

they

ailing.

neighbours Trenches were

knew
in the

dug

swampy

by
had

scores,
no

into which were thrown, churchyard, the bodies of persons, who either friends or relations, or, if they had,
so

these

occupied with their own safety, to provide no time that they had coffins. dissolved ; in Friendship, love, every tie, was
were

every

How few vacancy. were the fortunate beings, who, at the end of 1832, could say that not one of their friendly there
was
a

house

circle
scene

was

which frightful, in America

From
sorrow

missing ! involves which have numbers

But
so seen

why much

dwell

on

misery,

of

pictures equally as well as in Europe ! to joy there is but one step, serious contemplation cutting
men

and

from

the most

often relapse into the most I shall, therefore, take leave

picture, Yankee and
turn to

satire.

of this gloomy in which another,

I will the principal place. told to me, relate the anecdote justas it was and only quote it with a view to illustrate the occupies
fact, if it could

be

questioned

at
F

all, that
2

68

SPECULATION

OF

YANKEE.

and that, place him wherever you please, he is is There to sure rich. and grow prosper to his advan turn that he cannot nothing and tage the
:

Yankee

is "cut

dry"

for business,

he

even

carries,

if I may lakes from

be

allowed
to

expression,

frozen

Boston

the East his most way,

a

Indies for sale, and

sanguine calculating

succeeds beyond In the same expectation.

head
in
one

of the

the New
cholera

England
was

States

had

heard

that

advancing
the bad
a

to wards
name

New

Orleans

judging,
of the

from

and

unhealthy

state

place, that
ensue

great the

among

of course mortality must to citizens, he determined

to his
a own

turn

the circumstance accordingly

laden boxes.

advantage.
was

He

chartered
with
a

vessel, which

quickly
of large

considerable

quantity
place of

On

arriving

at

the
was

destination,
unload
her
:

the utmost

despatch
were

used

to

how

great

the surprise
on

and
that but

astonishment
the

of the consignee cargo consisted

finding nothing

whole

of

coffins !

The
at

8th

of January

was

day
years

of festivity had
now

New

Orleans.

Eighteen had

elapsed

since that day

of American

been

distinguished
by
a

in the page

history

gained

by

General

Jackson,

victory at the head of a

POLITICAL

FESTIVITY.

body
glish

of

undisciplined

troops,

over

the

En

ward
to

by General army, commanded Packenham. This victory, so

commander, chair. The

Sir Ed glorious

the republican

to the presidential

paved the way day was there

citizen, and
more

fore

sacred

to at

every New any

American
with

celebrated dour than

Orleans
other

splen

in

part

of the
mass

United
per

States.
formed

Early
in the

in the morning,

was

cathedral,

an

building,

where

thousands Te

old, dilapidated of faithful Catho and

a sermon

lics repaired commemorative

to hear

Deum,

of the event,
preachers
in

delivered
the ample

by

one

of

the

ablest

city.
scope with
were

The
for

subjectafforded
indulging
ence

the

orator

in

severe

observations enemy, of which

refer
lis

to to

the
by
to

defeated
a

tened

number
be

Englishmen, the

who

happened with
was

present

upon

occasion,
service

philosophical followed
by
a

composure. grand parade

Divine

of the militia

of the city, composed

of cavalry

and

infantry,

belonging
and The
in

to the first families in New

to
were

Orleans,
men.

amounting uniforms
the

about

eight hundred
I had

the handsomest

seen

New

World,
bore

particularly
a

that

of the
to

cavalry,
the

which

strong

resemblance

French.

The

martial

bearing

of

both

70

LEGISLATURE

OF
"

LOUISIANA.

officers and
sired
arms,
:

soldiers

left nothing

to

be

de

yet the salutes, or firing of the small were rather indicative of the recruit,
unlike the report of a let off one at a time. with
to
a

and

not

few

hundred
festivi
at

crackers
ties

The

concluded

performance
occasion,

the with

theatre, balls.

adapted

the

and

The
was

Legislature

of the State

then

sitting in New

of Louisiana Members Orleans.

of both

Chambers
as

were

the

Creoles

well

as

among chosen from from the American

members either
at

population. stand
one

As

many

language,

only under En French or

glish, it is necessary speech

a

the

end

of

every

to

employ

summary

interpreter, who makes translation as far as his memory

an

permits.
time

This

causes,

however,
a

loss

of

irreparable which
same

to

legislative be much
were

body better spoken

like
em

this, and ployed

all.

would

if the

language

by

Time

when

will Americans

this evil, remedy probably ascend shall have so much

mem ency in the State as to elect their own bers, and to exclude no those speak who I was Creole dialect. other than the French

fortunate
orators

enough speaking

to hear
on

several

of their first

the

of subject

creating

SPEECHES

OF

MEMBERS.

71

new

Bank,

which

should

have

the

additional
of

privilege
a

of providing

funds

for the cutting

to

canal

from

the
were

Mississippi
violent,

Lake

Borgne.
and

The
often

speeches

but

flowing,

distinguished

by

eloquence.

CHAPTER

III.

I hear the sound

of death

on

the harp. OSSIAN.

THE
waters,
a

Mississippi
restless

was

lying

before

me.

Its

and

muddy,
of

always

filled with bushes,

past

great

quantity
and

half-consumed rolled rapidly

It is not is capable

branches, shore great

on

trees,

the

which

I stood.

without
of
mas

exertion its

that

man

tering
neglect, happy
into

powerful

waves.

On

the

least

he
he

is lost without

redemption.

Un

who
river
to
:

has
an

the

misfortune
arm

of falling

the

invisible
bottom,
are

drags
to

him

instantly again. by
a

the

never means

appear

Thousands
Mississippi happens
some

the
attract

employed
If

the month
or

to

its victims.

to

elapse

without

steam

boat

other
waves,

craft

being
once

engulphed you hear

in

the
one

agitated of
the

all at

of

former
a

having
snag,

foundered, from

after

striking

against

projecting

the

THE

MISSISSIPPI.

73

of the river, or of the boiler having burst, or the boat taken fire, or of a flat boat being totally lost ; on occasions, all these
bottom human all. lives
are

Vapours

But this is not sacrificed. nature of a highly pernicious

rise in various

directions produce
also very

near

the

banks

of

this river, and Tornadoes

times It
are

dangerous frequent,
are

disorders. and felt.

some

shocks
was
a

of earthquakes

truly imposing

spectacle

to behold

The this magnificent river. sombre appear forests on both shores, ance of immeasurable the disagreeable,
of

muddy, and

and

light

brown

colour

the

water,

its extraordinary

rapidity, all contributed

sippi with
not
a

to clothe

the Missis

majesticmantle.
being only
near

The about

considerable,
mile

width half

is
an

English
and

New
rivers

Orleans.
can

St. Lawrence
dispute
is

other

large

therefore

the palm

in that respect.

The

Mississippi
on

perhaps sessing

the such

narrowest
an

stream
mass

earth, pos
; this

immense

of water
to
can

circumstance who
be

may
not
seen

appear

singular

those

have

this river, but

explained,
a

by

taking
but

into account filled with

easily that it

is not
trees,

clear stream,
are

earth and
till

which stick

carried
some

by
bay

the
or

current
curve,

they

fast in

and

74
thus
narrow

SOURCE

OF

THE

MISSISSIPPI.

contribute and

to

keep

the channel

equally
high

deep. takes
its rise
in
a

The

Mississippi
in about

table-land,
of latitude.

the forty-seventh

degree the
;

Opinions

stilldiffer respecting

precise upon

its source where the whole, it is a matter

spot

may

be found

it be whether sequence Lake, or any other lake. In degree of latitude seventh

ever,

of very littlecon Turtle Lake, Leech

or

about

the fortyhow gives

is situated,
source

beyond
to
a

doubt, that
that

which

birth

into a widens large and river, and, traversing considerable than rich tracts of land, has a longer course its source to its of. From any other that I know
stream
soon

junctionwith
computed hundred
steamboats.
the Gulph fifty miles of the
at

the

Missouri,

the

distance
miles,
seven

is

sixteen

hundred may
be

of

this point, the outlet into is twelve hundred and of Mexico length distant ; so that the whole is two thousand

which From

navigated

by

river

and

fifty miles.
that

Several

eight hundred have con authors

being
a

tended
*

the

Missouri,*

much

Missouri, from its source to its junction The with the Missis sippi, is three thousand one hundred and eighty-one miles in length, To are navigable by steamers. of which two thousand six hundred hundred two Balize, it is one thousand and fifty miles farther, length of the stream four thousand four hundred the whole making and thirty-one miles.

TRIBUTARY

STREAMS.

75

larger,
ought

longer,
to

and
name

more

powerful the

stream,

give

to

river, after
:

its it

junctionwith
may,
runs,

the

Mississippi
into which

be

this

as

the Mississippi,

the Missouri
two,

being
its
name

the

straighter

of the

has That

given
tract

to the gigantic

stream.

of land which

goes

under

the denomina

tion of the Valley

of the Mississippi,
it,is bordered

because

the river the east the

tance

runs

through

towards
and
on

by

the Alleghany

Mountains, Mountains,

west

by

the

Rocky
two

the dis thou

line,

between

which

chains
in
a

is two

sand
and

five hundred double

and

miles

straight
course

that

space

if the

of the

Ohio
No

Missouri

is followed.

river in the world

has

so

many

tributary

streams,

which, army

like weak

vassals,

joiningan
their

advancing

headed

by

hero, pay

Mississippi, to the and mingle contingent To enumerate waters. all with its mighty these streams work
cipal, Europe,
Danube,
:

would

exceed
a

the limits of this

few

I will only
that

mention
not

may

be

of the prin in known generally the Rhine,

north
run

and and

yet may the Elbe.

vie with To

the

the

of the
into the Des of

Missouri, Mississippi

the following
:

streams

Ouisconsin,
River,
and

Rock

River,

Monies,

Salt

Illinois.

South

76
the Missouri tion
:

FALLS

OF

ST.

ANTHONY.

again, the following- form

junc
White Were

Kaskaskia,
Arkansas,
in the Old have

Ohio,
and

St. Francis,
Red they River. would

River, these
now

World,

long

ere

been theme
must

objectsof
of
some

haps

the

per admiration, illustrious poet : at

of the arrival
rivals

present
of that

they day,

wait

in hopes

when
into

their

European

shall have
cance

sunk

oblivion

and

insignifi

About

three

hundred
is half

miles from
a

its

source,

the Mississippi precipitates

a

mile

wide. and

It then

itself from

an

elevation,

forms

feet. of seventeen perpendicular waterfall This is called the Falls of St. An cataract

thony. tremely
scene

The

environs and

are

described having

as

ex

romantic,

as

been
event.

the A

of the following
Dacota

melancholy
woman,

young
her

Indian despair who and had

impelled inconstancy
another
a canoe,

by
of

jealousyand
husband,
herself
placed

at

the taken

wife,
and

let it glide down

children in the fall. Both

without

mother

and

children
trace

perished,

leaving

the least

behind

; but, according
woman injured

to tradition, the

spirit of the the

still hovers

about the

place, husband.

bewailing

the

infidelity of

FEATURES

OF

THE

MISSISSIPPI.

77

The
are

features

of the

stream

below

this fall picture

valuable

well described

in Flint's excellent

of the Mississippi

Valley,

to

which

From I beg leave to refer my readers. work St. Anthony's Fall the river runs tranquilly

through
tinually other

rich meadows

and

thick forests,

con

increasing

by

the

junctionof

many
re

streams,

themselves

gions
as

several thousand

from coming As miles distant.

far

the mouth

of the Missouri,

the river is scarcely two the Missouri, again, it is and

same

the rapidity of miles an hour ; below

more

may

be

computed

at

four

considerable, miles for the

river, the Mis

period. sissippi is one

united
streams

On

joiningthis
and
a

mile

half

wide.
as

The far
as

have

subsequently,
no

the

mouth

of Ohio, of
a

greater
The

width

than
Missis

three quarters sippi appears but the depth

of water

mile.

mighty than

to lessen

rather

widen
mass

it ;

insensibly
;

changes
what

; the

increases alters

and,

is much

to

be lamented,
It
is
no

its character

altogether. peaceable

longer

the

quiet

and

shores and plain sand with smooth its a wild banks : it is now and boiling river ; banks, and, and rugged shores present uneven has receded, from which the water at places
stream,

heaps

of mud

are

deposited.

78
The

REFLEXIONS

ON

THE

MISSISSIPPI.

Mississippi

will always

remain
; aged

sub

lime
will

subjectfor
ever
cover

contemplation
its banks
so

forests

; but

its peaceable

character,
"

hitherto No

gratifying to the eye, is

man

gone.

thinking and

can

contemplate
sweeping-

this mighty
its proud

resistless current, from

course

through the winding The hundred feeling of awe. a by its waters ; the long course
taries,
some

point to point, and dark forests, without

regions

laved

of its tribu

of which

water

the

abodes

of

civilization, while

others where is

pursue
not
a on

their way

through

countries
man

solitary dwell
their banks that
now
roam

ing of civilized

seen

the
on

numerous

tribes of savages

its vicinity ; the affecting and

imperishable gone, leaving

or ma

traces
no

of generations
memorials

that

are

other

of their existence their tombs, along

terials for history than

at

that rise

frequent
but

intervals

its shores ; the

dim
"

glorious
are

anticipations

of the

future

these

of subjects
associate

contemplation, with

that the

cannot

but

themselves

view

of this river."*
was

I
can

repeatedly
a

told in America
idea
of the

that

none

form has

correct

Mississippi
the

who
*

only

visited it once.
and

1 doubted

Flint's "History

Geography

of the Mississippi Valley."

ITS

VARIOUS

ASPECTS.

79

truth tunity
river.
soon

of this assertion, of personally

A

until I had

an

oppor

surveying

this immense with

it
in

few

weeks'
me

acquaintance
that

convinced

its appearance

the banks overflow, is very dif spring*, when it is in autumn. It is no ferent from what longer the same season, stream, which, at one a mile, and at another confines itself within covers a space of at least thirty miles in width, place less than fifteen feet deep. and is in no Trees, which in summer autumn and raise heads far above the surface of the their aged
water,
are

hardly and
at

visible during resemble

the

rest

of

the

year,

boundless
of
an

woods
lake.
a

growing is One
man's

the

bottom

extensive

even

led to

believe

that

it requires

life-time to examine

and

to become

tho
of this

roughly
river.
are

acquainted Individuals
struck

with

the character inhabit

who

its shores
at the sud

often

with

amazement

den
course

changes
of

produced the

single night, in the Mississippi, by its increased

in
a

width
then
once,

ravages extraordinary possible for a traveller, who and

to
come

how
sees

is it it He

only

to any

correct at

conclusion
"

may

be

astonished

its length
streams

judge

by

the depth
mass

of tributary
"

of its immense

of water

tremble

at the vix:"lenceof the

80
waves

STEAMBOAT

ACCIDENTS.

"

contemplate which and

follows
even

with surprise

the muddy

water

him

long" after quitting'

is out

Balize,

when

land

of sight

"

still he knows
in the

nothing
of
a

of the Mississippi,

until

afternoon

long

life, commenced,

its shores. on passed, and concluded, It was the beginning about of February

when

I quitted the great Southern embarked

bound
to
on

metropolis, Louisi
one

and
ana,

board

the steamer
This
on

Louisville.

was

of

the

largest

steamboats

plying
to

the Missis and

sippi, and Ohio Mail

ern

belonging
Line,

the
one

Mississippi

the only

in all the West

States in which it is possible to travel with Each year adds a con any degree of safety. to the long list of human vic siderable number
tims lost by accidents in steamers
to
on

this river.

It is almost
these

miracle

escape

trips. Of nine steamboats

on

with life on that left New

Orleans^
Natchez,
and

the

same

day

for different places, Louisville,

Alexandria, three kind

St. Louis, only

or

Pittsburg,
of
some

arrived

without

disasters
no
was

other.
cause,

Negligence,
and
of this I the
one

doubt,
an

is the principal

eye-witness

during
of the

river.

The
to

length
one

trip up from voyage,

my

thousand
so

thousand
captain

five hundred

miles,
seamen

overpowers

and

pilot,

CARELESSNESS

OF

HUMAN

LIFE.

81

engineers, with fatigue, that they fall into an imaginary security, from which they
and
are

roused only when death already reigns But stillnegligence

cause :

accidents board. on may

and
not
a

happen,

and

always

be the

false economy,
on

want

of proper

feeling

of proprietors of steam boats, have also their share, if the statements be de States may in the Western current

the part

upon. A captain of one of the smaller informed, for a long had, as I was steamboats pended
time

called the attention

indifferent condition
sured them, he expected and
ces.

to the of his owners of the boilers, and as

were so
worn

that

some

out, that

that The

burst every minute, for consequen he could not answer laughed owners at his warnings,

they

would

and

ordered
few

him
to

immediately

to proceed

with

the steamer ing: "A

his place of destination, add less are lives more or of very

little must go." consequence to us ; the steamer life When to this carelessness of human is added the and the negligence of the crew of the Missis navigation really dangerous sippi, both on account of the strong current

and
*

the

sunken
or

snags
are

or

sawyers*,

so

often

Sawyers, entangled by
VOL.
II.

snags, the roots

at

trees, which, torn from the banks, get the bottom of the river. Their trunks,

82

STEAMERS

ON

THE

WESTERN

RIVERS.

met

with,

one

may

form

an

imperfect

idea of
on

the

continual
are

dangers

to which

travellers

this river with

The Atlantic Ocean, exposed. its fathomless depth, is not half so dan

from as the Mississippi : a voyage gerous Liverpool to New York is a party of pleasure Orleans to to that from New when compared

Cincinnati.
America,
some

During hardly
a

the two

years

I spent

in

accident
one
or

month happening
two

passed
on

without

the

Western
blown
at the

rivers, by

or

up, burnt, number

not

sunk

being steamboats ; and I stillshudder lives that

were

of human

sacrificed,

by hundreds,
was was

but by thousands.

It boat it
was

in the year 1811 that the first steam built in the Mississippi valley, but until 1817 that they
were

not

in full

activity.
are
now

On
no

the large Western fewer

rivers there four hundred

than

about

steamers, two

of which hundred, two

the greater part are from fifty, three hundred and

and
ones, :

hundred,
den.
ranean was

to three hundred

fifty tons the this

bur

Among takes

the

larger

Mediter

the first rank built at Pittsburg, and hundred

tons.

steamboat
a

carries
was

freight
a

of

seven

She

like

fri-

by the influence of the current, are always moving backward and forward, and are extremely dangerous to vessels, which they often cut through.

THE

LOUISIANA.

83

gate, with three decks every revolution

ous,

the steam,
was

issuing at
so

that

the
a

of the wheel, noise it made

impetu the vessel

resembled
to

report of follow the

cannon.

Next
Henry

this

Homer,

Clay,

Uncle

Sam, three decks,

Mohican, hundred the upper

",c. The
and

Louisiana

measured

sixty tons,

and

had

two

of which consisted of a long saloon, extending from the fore-part of the ship to the the stern, and a ladies' cabin with births on sides. The births for the
men were

side of the saloon,

open

with

windows

each facing an

on

passage
room

round

the vessel.
an

In the mid

dle of the
immense
a

appeared
as
a

size, used for part covering

oblong case of table, but in reality

through
saloon
an

the floor.
was

of the machinery raised The only outlet from this

in the fore-part, through

the bar,

incessantly frequented by all apartment the drinking individuals on board. This place of resort that, in
was case

exactly

above

the

boilers,

so

individuals victims, who

nor

of any accident, the have been among would

was

aforesaid the first

there

might

chance again
was

any escape for those The to be in the stern.

other deck
nery,

(high pressure),
goods
as

fitted up for the machi also used for and was

in the hold
G

such

could not be stowed

84

THE

LOUISIANA.

of the vessel, and finally for the accommoda The latter consisted tion of deck passengers. in flat down chiefly of persons who had come
boats from the

Northern

States, and who, duce and boats,

small leans, expence.

and North-western after disposing of their pro home were at a returning

Louisville to New

From

Or
than the
sta

for instance, if they

in

they

paid

no

more

five dollars,
crew

engaged
firewood
at

to

assist

in

taking

various

tions. the hurricanethe long saloon was deck, as it is called, perfectly open, without Here the pilot had a box in any covering.

Above

the foremost behind

ing

part of the vessel, immediately or the two chimneys, above the drink The
fare
was

room.

much
on

better

on

board

this boat

than

in those
can

the Alabama
be

river ; but, after all, it

hardly

called and and to be

cook. in

good.

The

dishes

were

badly

served up in small allowances ham, and all sorts of pig-meat, favourite

The

cooked, bacon :
seemed and

dishes

with

the
were

captain

black

attendants

impudent

and

solent, and

their conduct often led to disagree between them and the passengers. able scenes in the West Steamboats are undoubtedly
of any
:

the least durable

they

are

considered

WALLS

ON

THE

BANKS

OF

THE

RIVER.

85

old and The wood

cause

useless after

service partly

of five years.
to the

may

be

traced

green

in their construction, partly employed built. They to the hurry in which they are generally pay the first cost within five years, in three, two, or one even sometimes year.

Hence
immense

some

conception

may

be formed

of the
steam

traffic in these parts ; many

not

boats

only

pay

their expences,

but yield

large profits to their owners. On both banks First Day's Journey.

"

of the

river, walls had been thrown its overflowing: the low but
o

up

to prevent

valuable

fields When
now,

used
the

for the cultivation

water

of sugar-canes.
was

is high, which

the

case

it reaches from
stream

the foot of the walls ; and for the impetuosity unusual

to defy

it is far of

the

all obstacles, to overthrow

the

bulwark,
bourhood.
in the

and to inundate Several places

the
were

whole

neigh
to
me,

shown

course

of the first day's

journey, where
breaches
tracts

the river had, of this kind, land these they

by its violence, made

which

large and overflowed had been productive.

are so

of
of

Some

inundations
may

considerable, the
transport

that of

be

used

for

but not until the produce, both raised high walls on

inhabitants

have
on

banks,

as

the

86

SUGAR

PLANTATIONS.

parent

stream.

Others

again,

turning* in

southerly direction, discharge the Gulph ; thus of Mexico large

masses

themselves

into

of water

from

away carrying the Mississippi,

These
name

before it reaches New known or diverters, are

The

Orleans. by the

drains,

of Bayous.

both banks of the Missis country on sippi is flat, but displays the greatest fertility and the richest soil. Sugar, cotton, and rice,
are

cultivated
as

first article,

every where, particularly the far as one hundred and fifty

miles north of New

Orleans

cotton

then takes that indi

I

the

lead.

All the had

sugar-plantations
a

could

discover
a

neat

appearance,
owners.

cative of

certain does
one

profit to the
not

The
year, but
so

sugar-cane
the

succeed
season

every
is

great for that the planters are richly remunerated One of these hos several indifferent crops.
as men and independent, pitable, generous, ten years that he purchased, ago, sured me for the sum and sixty thousand of one hundred

profit of

good

dollars,
tation,

(allborrowed
which had,

money)

sugar-plan
several

notwithstanding

bad

hundred already paid off one and dollars, leaving only thirty thirty thousand to be liquidated, which, he added, he thousand
crops,
at the end

could easily pay

of the next

crop.

SUGAR

PLANTATIONS.

87

No capital than
stance,

plantation,
or more

however,

Negroes

requires more for its cultivation

:

that in

of the
some

sugar-cane
measure,

this

circum

tition. The

mortality

among

prevents Negroes
on

compe
on

such
of the

plantations
severe

is considerable,

account

they have to go through which in harvest-time, the sugar-cane requiring a in a quick process, which mu'st be completed
work few

days.

The

canes

are

generally
and

cut

in
im

November mediately
are

and

December,
out

the sugar The

pressed

by rollers.

roots

left in the
at which
to

ground
time

till the month

bruary, order another effect at

snow,

they

are

set

on

of Fe fire, in
it for

clear

the These

soil and

prepare

crop.
night.

The

fires produced fine a flames were white as

and
moon

disputed

with

the feeble light of

the

bourhood.

the right of illuminating the neigh I remained a good while on deck

this night,
as

enjoying this
a warm

singular
summer

light,

as

well

as

delightful

air in

the month Second

same

of February. Day.
"

The

river

continued

of the frag

dark

grey, dirty colour, filled with

ments

of branches
to meet
was

and

trees,

which

already The miles

began
current

the eye at New

at

Orleans.
four

the

rate

of about

88

NAVIGATION

OF

THE

MISSISSIPPI.

an

hour.

When

steamers

go down
middle,

the river,
to
acce

they

generally

keep

in the

lerate their velocity by taking of advantage in addition to the speed the strong current,

by the working caused But, when they proceed

act
near

of

the
the

machinery.
stream,

up
must

they
as

differently,
the
shore

as as

they

then

steer
to

possible, in order

avoid

the from

current.

Numberless

difficulties arise
unknown
as
on

this peculiar

navigation, Mississippi,

other rivers.
fore observed,

The

I have
runs,

be
with

is not

straight, but

few

exceptions,

in semicircles,

commences

where site direction, forming

of which one the other ends, in an oppo bays

and

bends

of such

their dis that pilots calculate regularity, The by the number tance of them. channel deepest is generally at the bottom of the

bay,

earthy all trunks of trees, as well as following the current to nearest substances,

the outer

side, thus

leaving

the

interior

to

lerably free from

must,

impediments.
at

Steamboats bays, steer

interior part
same course, cross

therefore,
across

each

of these
to

right
of the

the

stream

the

curve,

continuing

the
them

till another
river without

bay
a

obliges
manoeuvre

to

the

again,
a

serious

struggle

seldom effected between the vessel

BATON

ROUGE

AND

FRANCISVILLE.

89

and

the stream,

in which

the former

unques

tionably
at

conquers, gigantic

but not

the

strength

without trembling of her antagonist.

This necessary precaution prolongs the voyage by doubling the distance, and consumes thrice the time required in going down the river, in addition danger
the
mast which of falling in with
to

be

mentioned

the

pressure

of the

snags, which, from incline down current,

wards. In small the

course

of this day

we

passed

the

towns

Baton

Rouge

and

Francisville,

in the vicinity of which several plantations To the north of these places, are situated. the
ance,

banks
and

begin

to

have

wilder

appear
are seen.

fewer

human

habitations

Forests

rise
seem

and, majestically,

like many
on

noble
co

families,
ronet
same

to pride themselves

their

and

ancestry.

Swamps

increase
assumes,

in the
at each

proportion,
a

and

Nature

step,

different aspect. Early Day. Third this

"

morning,
a

was

of called on deck to view the wreck from Pittsburg to New boat, bound

steam

Orleans,

which
run

had

foundered
a

the

day

before, having
of which

foul of

snag,

in consequence

accident
two

in the space of she filled with water now was the fore- part alone minutes:

90

WRECK

OF

STEAMER.

visible.
save

had only time to passengers in the small boats before the themselves

The

steamer, water.

with

all their

effects,
at

was

under

This have

would

sight, which deep a made caused

any other place impression on the

spectators, and
more or

many
to
no

bitter reflexions,
our
own

less applicable

insecure
on were

situation,

had,

however,
more

effect
or

those
of

A few lives present. very little consequence

less

to

them;

the captain
event

himself
a

narrated

the

disastrous evidently

with

nonchalance,

which

showed

the

frequency A
few

of these accidents.
miles

further is
a

on

we

fell in with

of steamer, made flat-bottomed boats, fastened to each of two beams, and provided other b}/ strong with powerful engines, by which they are propelled with amazing and
cut

snag-boat.

This

kind

force.

The

is object to

extract
:

off snags

found

in the Mississippi

this operation,

of essential importance

to the

The navigation of the river, is thus performed. boat starts with the greatest velocity against between taking the snags the current, the

flat-bottomed
them
to
an

boats, the beams

of which

raise

almost

the water. speed, and

The

elevation in perpendicular boat is then checked in her

are

all hands

employed

in sawing

SNAG-BOAT.

91

cutting off the trunk raised above the sur face of the water. This operation can only be is low ; during- the when the water undertaken
or

of the year, the boats are unservice remainder be questioned, and able. Their utility cannot it would

be beneficial if their number on the it They Mississippi increased. were cannot,

is true, be

said to

answer

the

purpose

alto

gether, for many

remain

snags defy their attacks, and stationary, in spite of all exertions.

even

Some

are

dangerous
at

after having
water.

been cut

off, particularly opinion,

low
to

impossible

clear

It is, in rny the Mississippi

entirely of these

incumbrances,
an

the river
of them

re

ceiving continually down trees washed Mississippi,

called Uncle The conduct
miles,
to

accession

from

from

its banks.
are

On

the

these

snag-boats

technically

Sam's

tooth-pullers.
of
a

incessant

windings
after

the
course

river often

the

water,

of many

started.
at the
same

it nearly the same spot whence To avoid this circuitous route, and time

sage

or

canal
at
a

has

shorten the voyage, been cut through a

distance
means

pas

narrow

isthmus,

short
By

from of

the mouth

of Red
which

River.
is not
a

this channel,

more

than twenty-seven
of eighteen miles

yards

in

length,

distance

is saved.

92

NATCHEZ.

On

paper
as

this certainly

appears

gain

of
;

time,

regards

the progress

of the voyage of the Mis The

but, in reality, these sissippi

are

shortenings of very little moment.

river*

possessing
an

already a strong current, additional impetus; the fall which

place
in

receives

formerly

took
now

fifteen
to

or
a

twenty
mile.

confined

half

miles being Steamboats

exertions

are

therefore obliged against

the

to make stream,

great

to work

bly

time to much thirty times they formerly needed to perform by It is in vain to attempt, that distance. digging, to render the Mississippi straighter
as

and take proba half a mile as proceed

than

it is by

nature

it cannot

be
ever

mastered
continue

by the
forming

hand
new

of

man,

and

will

bays,

in defiance

of all human

its course. efforts to change I arrived towards evening

at Natchez,

the

capital of the State of Mississippi. built

on

It is partly
most

an

eminence,
are

on

which
:

of the

dwelling
are near

houses the

situated
occupied

the remainder

river,

by

the

refuse whom

population
scenes

of the neighbourhood,

among

of disorder

ally occurring. ships

a

are continu and bloodshed is very flourishing, The town

considerable
as

quantity
as

of

cotton

to

New

Orleans,

well

to

Liverpool,

and

RODNEY.

93

contains
souls. extinct

population of about three thousand It was in this vicinity that the now
a

Indian
a race

race

of the Natchez
to

once

re

sided read

"

well known

Chateaubriand's

those who have beautiful and touching-

novel, Atala.

Fourth

Day.

"

The
was
near

first
a

that object
small
town

met

my

eyes

this morning1 situated

to be
a

called

Rodney, appeared
on

the

river, and

which

flourishing place. trade.

It carries

arrival, under my built on the shore, mined a large warehouse, hundred two bales of and containing about
cotton,

had,

cotton considerable few days before a

The

river

the

whole

of which

was

precipitated
are

into the
common

stream.

Such
the

accidents
are so

not
as

un

where and

banks very

low

at

Rodney,
among The
known
no

excite

little sensation

the residents. Mississippi had

character

now

assumed The

its well-

of uniformity.

banks

presented any variety ; they were level, and wooded down to the water's edge. In most places, nothing but swamps could be
seen

longer

for many
moss

miles

grey
trees,

hung
were

and a kind around, from down the branches

of

which

destitute
be
seen
a

and

there might

of leaves. few scattered

of Here
cot-

94

SQUATTERS.
or solitary log-houses in the vicinity. They appeared

ton-plantations, Negro
to

with

huts

be

protected
not

from

inundations the

walls, the

merely

following inclosing
the

mud direction of
on

by

banks,

but For
a

plantations

all sides.

with the sight littletrimmed, human

all, living beings
"

while, the eye was gratified a of cultivated fields, trees habitations, and, above
a

sight very yet wild Mississippi. majestic

rare

on

the

FifthDay.
twice

"

The

steamboat

generally

stops
in fire

every twenty-four

hours, to take
on

wood,

which

settlers

the and

banks,

for

trifling remuneration,
use

cut

pile up for the The

con

of the first vessel that arrives.

of this article
so
on

sumption has

the

Mississippi
that

of late years
emigrants, climate, have
on

much

increased,

many
the

in spite of the insalubrity

of

found

it worth

their while purpose

to settle

its banks,
on
an

for the express

of carrying

boats
cutters

on

are

with the steam These extensive scale. wood fix their called Squatters, who

the wood-trade

abode

wherever

they

think

proper,

without

or even of any person, permission asking inquiring if,by chance, the spot has a pro individuals banished from Many are prietor.

civilized society

on

account

of their irregula-

SQUATTERS.

95

rities, who forgotten

here
and

seek

an

asylum, and

unknown,

absolutely frame for them and gun.

selves laws, which are by the interposition

observed
of the

executed Others,
from who
the settle

again,
Eastern

are

emigrants peaceable States and from Europe,

parts with

in these in hopes This

their wives

and

children,

of ameliorating

their circumstances. and legal

their

class of people of land

purchases

make regular for themselves the

are

and

offspring, with which interfere. Trees never

cut

first mentioned felled, fire-wood ground burnt, huts

and

sold, mud

walls

erected, the
moss

cleared, stumps,

roots,

and

and sheds raised, and, finally, rich seed sown in the fertile soil, which yields a rich crop to

the industrious
for the support But cottage, disease
at

cultivator,

more

of himself and finds its way

same

than sufficient his family.

to

the

humble

the

time

that

harvests
more

promise independent
parts

cultivated

a the emigrant life than the peopled and he has left behind. which

abundant happier and

His

wife

and
are

till they

by degrees, children fall away in appearance; like spectres

their

healthy
a

place to

fades, and gives complexion Truly fortunate sickly, sallow hue.

at

is he who,

the end

has not of the year,

to

96

UNHEALTHINESS

OF

THE

RIVER'S

BANKS.

deplore

the loss of

some

member

of his little

circle ; he
brate

may
return

then, of

indeed, this

joyfully cele
A

the

season.

few

is said to obviate years' residence on the spot I ; but, be this as it may, all danger nearly
never saw
on a

hearty

and

healthy

looking

per

son

the banks

have

just
not

I What of the Mississippi. insalubrity mentioned respecting

to

does grants

apply
may
But

other

rivers, where spots

emi

always the
case

find

perfectly
on

healthy. Mississippi and

must

is different
are

the

; its

banks

of necessity

and swampy, distempers engender

to

low

unaccustomed persons among I am inclined to halations.

banks of all the Western

marshy that

ex

think

the

will be thickly Time Mississippi. settled before those of the will show if I err in my judgment.

Rivers

I landed, with a few of my fellow-travellers, at one of the firewood stations, with an inten
tion of killing
some

of the small green

about

parrots,
in the

which

were

flying in thousands

far from the land I had not advanced wood. hut built of a ing-place before I discovered

logs, to

saving inundation.

all appearance from the inmates

for the

purpose in
case

of

drowning had
small

Indian
season,

corn
on

been

the preceding

adjoining

of raised, in lots of

PICTURE

OF

SQUATTER.

97

ground
to

; and

trees stood like

whole idea of the industry, activity, and agri mean cultural experience of the proprietor. I opened the
as were

the

dwelling.

The

solid wall close but a gave me

door, to which
steps, and
two

few loose stones

served
room

entered

the hut.

In the

and a woman, elderly persons, a man like few half naked a and children, more habita The than civilized beings. savages denoting in the extreme, tion was wretched
the greatest

poverty.

I had

not

yet

had

an

the old man, opportunity of contemplating but when he addressed me Stranger, thus : here !" I could not help sur thou art welcome
"

veying
a man

his countenance.
of about

His exterior bespoke forty, though he had seen at

least sixty winters; all he knew himself of in the his age born was, that he was eighteenth century. His -look had

pression, without exciting awe in long dark ringlets down his back.
costume
was

wild ex ; his hair fell

a

His
coarse

singular, consisting of
waistcoat

green

colours, of variegated inexpressibles, no chocolate-coloured wide cravat, high shirt collar, following the impulse hat. of the wind, and a low broad-brimmed The eccentric appearance of this individual more excited my curiosity to know something
VOL.
II.

coat,

98

PICTURE

OF

SQUATTER.

of his history. taken

man

soon

found
he

I
was

was
a

not

mis

in my

conjecture:
one

Kentucky
but

by birth ;
and
in
more

of those

uncultivated

hospitable
remain

restless persons
one

long

place, and than

never who fear civilized

neighbours beasts.
He

Indians

and when

wild

had

left Kentucky began

is, within

finding that emigrants

that neighbourhood, miles of his residence
'Tis
true

young, to settle in his

one

hundred

in the wood.

he shrank from men, even of his nation ; When they built up unto his darling trees, He moved hundred miles off,for a station some Where fewer houses and more there were ease.

The

of civilization Is, that you neither can he pleased

inconvenience

nor

please*.

Driven

from

place

to

place

by

dislike of

neighbours,
on

he had, several years of the Mississippi,

for unhealthiness

ago, settled
in hopes

the banks

that deter

its reputation

would

from emigrants but the prospect steamboats

these regions ; approaching of lucre from the supply of

too tempting to be wood was They came resisted by poor Irish emigrants. hundred within a distance of about one miles Kentuckian. He of our could not possibly

with

bear

this
*

intrusion.

He
Juan,"

could
Canto
viii.

no

longer

Bvron,

"

Don

HIS

DISLIKE

TO

NEIGHBOURS.

99

freely, but suffered in his imaginary dungeon, and felt the weight of supposed fetters : he grumbled at encroachments and
breathe illegalities, and determined with
a

to

cross

the stream

view of regaining liberty in States situ I have ated in a more westerly direction. he, offended at my no elbow-room," answered
"

endeavours

to

dissuade

to regions removing I cannot move about

"

the idea of to him. totally unknown without seeing the out between-

him

from

of my neighbour sticking the trees. Thou dost not understand, stranger, what liberty is : don't meddle with it. I can
not

nose

bear

close confined
submits
to

town-air,
wear

and

laugh

at the fool who

he may
one

be free if he chooses. fetters ?" of those who wear

chains, though Art thou, man,

From

this monologue,

during

which

the

appellation very
common

two epithets stranger and man, in the West in speaking to

unknown
versation

persons, turned

were

often used,
the

the

con

politics of the He apeared well versed in the form country. State, expressed of government of his own himself firmly and energetically on the good upon

and bad parts of the Constitution, concluding his remarks by a glowing panegyric on Henry I heard him Clay. with surprise: it was
H

100

POLITICAL

INFORMATION

OF

AMERICANS.

strange
of
a

to meet

with

politician in the shape the banks

poor Kentuckian,

on

sissippi, who place

to

had

wandered
passed

of the Mis all his life from with his

place, and

his time

family
this is

in absolute
a

But solitude in the woods. characteristic feature in Americans.

from infancy,
to speak accustomed of Government, of the Con
men

They

are,

freely of the acts stitution, and

the influential

in the

coun
num

try. Newspapers,

circulating
published

in infinite

bers in all parts, and in the Western town

nions

in the smallest alive

forests, keep

opi their

thus
in

early inculcated, and

confirm
in silence

minds spirit. tongues

originating prejudices, consideration they express

measures
can

partytheir

No
: on

themselves

unreser

vedly

the

of Government,

for
as

they
much
ern

conceive
to them

that
as

the

country

belongs

to any

citizen of the North

as

States ; and
of the its

they Union

are as

anxious

for the who

welfare

the

individual

advocates the whole

with
an

cause

before Congress.

During
never

I of my journey, however American, poor,

course
as

met
was

who

deficient in knowledge
vernment

to the
or on

form that

of go of

of his
; and,
more

own

State, than
once,

the
the the

Union

board

steamboat,

Louisiana,

did

I listen with

ONE

OF

THE

CREW

DROWNED.

101

greatest delight to political discussions among persons of the lower class, on topics connected How dif with the prosperity of the Union. ferent is the state of information among ! similar classes in Europe The
board, fire-wood and
was now

already
a

taken

on

the sound

of

great

bell recalled I left

the scattered
my
new

passengers

to the steamer.

acquaintance
of
a

in great

haste, in the
some,

midst

violent

attack

on

in his

opinion,
vernment

unwise
;

measures

of the Federal
a

Go

wishing
elbow-room

him

pleasant

journey
west

and

more

in the

States

of
in
on

Mississippi. every their which

account
were move, we

Our

sportsmen from
a

came

running
carrying birds,

direction

the

wood, of

shoulders parrots
were

variety

among
on

the most

conspicuous,

of the beauty
on

of their plumes. the wheels

Hardly
began
to

board,
in
a

before

and

minute

the steamboat
an

darted

forward The

with
same

the rapidity of evening,

arrow. we

after dark,
of
our

had
who

the
acci

misfortune

to

lose

one

crew,

dentally

fell overboard.

The
as

immediately
assistance

stopped, heard, were

up ; but the

soon
a

was machinery his cries for as

and

boat
was

lowered
so

to

pick that

him
he

current
away

rapid

was

carried

several

hundred

102

TERRITORY

OF

ARKANSAS.

yards heard

I aid could be afforded. him for at least two minutes calling out for assistance, his voice growing weaker and

before

any

weaker;

and

at last all

was save

silent.

Darkness

rendered
returned,

it impossible

to

him.

The

boat

after having
rescue

at

tried to
not

him.

The

great risk Mississippi

He
was

vainly

surrender
in Ohio

its victim.
a

would drowned,

leaving
in
was

widow

with several children

A

indigent

circumstances.

subscription

raised on board for the benefit of the un little could it fortunate survivors ; but how
compensate

for the loss of

husband

and

father !
Sixth Day.
now
on
"

The

territory of Arkansas The banks

A

was

my

left.
as

and

woody

before.

low continued of islands* number partly

lay scattered

in the river, formed

by

floating heaps

trunks

of

trees,

collected

among

of sand partly by inunda and mud, have cut off pieces of land, and tions, which
into islands. In the them converted of this day's trip, we passed the mouth

thus
course

of the

Arkansas, and

hundred

one thousand river two seventy miles in length, giving a

There are not fewer than one hundred and twenty-five islands in the Mississippi, from the mouth of of the Ohio to the Gulph Mexico.
*

SOLITARY

INDIAN.

103
it
on

name

to

the territory through

the

which

runs.

Little Rock, banks,

capital,

is situated

its

in the centre and

is
town
a

of the State, about

three

hundred There this

fifty miles from

the Mississippi. between

means

constant

communication

and

New

Orleans

by

of

steamboats. Seventh Day.

saw
an

"

This since

was

the

first time

Indian

I left New

Orleans
a

; he

standing* on shoulders, leaning

was

shore, against
that he

with
a

his on gun tree, his attitude absorbed in deep the

to

and looks showing contemplation.

was

Perhaps
of his
race

he

was

mourning
recalling

degradation
memory ruled
was over

; perhaps

the happy

times

when

his ancestors
the Mississippi
to navigate

these regions, when white Alone on

no
man

his, and

dared

its waters. zation has

the

soil whence
to which

civili native

driven

him,

and

inclinations and habits could no longer attach him, he contemplated, for the last probably time, with feelings of bitter sorrow, the country he
nant

could

no

longer
race

call his

own.

The

rem

of the

to which

he belonged

had, in

from obedience to the mandates long ago evacuated the country,

Washington,
and
was
on

removed

westward
the only

of the Mississippi
one

he

who

still lingered

perhaps his native

104

TOTAL

NUMBER

OF

THE

INDIANS.

soil, bewailing

his unhappy

fate.
on

"

Our

day

is past !" seemed

imprinted

his downcast
of
on
a

looks.
race,

Unfortunate thy
covers

offspring past
of thy

mighty
that soil
;

day

is indeed

which

the

ashes
a

forefathers

thou
out

canst

live only in yet

foreign

land !

Look
re

for it whilst
; collect

some

of thy

people

main

the

precious
;

relics; build

thy

Troy

in

new

regions

and

die at least among

!

those

thou whom It is impossible

a

callest thy countrymen

to give, with

any
number

degree

of

accuracy,

statement

of the

of In

dians, descendants still remaining

of the former

inhabitants, Tables,
as

in the United

States.
not

which

I have

examined,
of them

do

agree

to

the amount tribes, with

souls,
as

: one

states

sixty different
two

two

hundred

and

thousand
to

the

nearest

approximation
says they do not

the

truth.
one

Another and
are,

again

exceed

hundred

eighty thousand.
however, made
at

All these

statements most

random
such
to take
a

of

the

Indian

tribes

leading

straggling
census.

life, that it is impossible

That
This

they
decline

annually
is not

decrease

is

certain.
in

only

perceptible

vicinity of civilization, but, strange in the remotest they enough, regions, where heard of the existence of Whites. Two never the

THEIR

GRADUAL

DECREASE.

105

tribes
are

alone,
to

the
be
on

Choctaws
the

said

and increase

Cherokees,
:

the

first-

mentioned
animosity that with many
me,

bear,

of all Indians,

the greatest

to the Whites.

I believe, however,
Americans
will
one

experienced that

believe,

the Indians

day
total

live
ex

only in the annals

tinction
will

of history.

This
a

probably by

be

subject often
of intellectual
A

touched
only
a

upon natural

poets ; but, after all, it is

consequence

progress savage
ened with
a
man

and
cannot
:

of the march

of civilization.
an

exist by the side of

let him

be

treated

with

enlight kindness,

tenderness,

feeble and and luxuriant wild

vine

away, like inferior plant, beside the rich The vegetation of the South.
still he will pine

will not

thrive

in

our

cultivated
on
a a

be grafted orchards : it either dies, or must better stock. So with the Indian. Many a Man Red will vanish from the earth, but

nobler others.

and

better nature

will be infused into amalgamate with

the will

Time

will afterwards

the civilized descendants

of savages

Whites
cease

in
to live

general,
on

and

thus

Indians

the earth. overtaken Memphis. the

us

Night
steamer

had

already
at

before the
is the

arrived

This

port through

which

trade in cotton

with

106

MEMPHIS.

the interior of the State

on
:

of Tennessee of that

is carried

considerable

quantities

commodity from and which eighty

are

shipped

here for New

is about
seven

Orleans,
hundred

Memphis
miles

distant.

CHAPTER

IV.

The

sun

set, and
's

up

rose

The

devil

in the

moon

the yellow moon for mischief.

BYRON.

Eighth

Day.

"

THE

sun

had

justrisen
"

above
were

the right bank, yet awake, when

and

few

of the travellers

the dreadful
our

cry,
one

Fire

on

board
from

!" reached

ears.

Every

rushed

his birth, and in hopes of escaping

hastened while
space
women

into the saloon,

was

there
of
ran
a

yet time.
was

Confusion,
general. other pale

for Men

the and

minute,

against with
further

each
faces

in the utmost
as

consternation,
I

death.

abstain

from

de

tails of
be

this frightful
by my

moment,

lest I should

accused

unfortunate of the fair

companions,
sex,

particularly

by

those
to

of levity
It
is

and
easy

indifference
to

their
comic

sufferings.
as

imagine

the

well

as

tragic

108

FIRE

ON

BOARD.

which naturally take place on such an Here, therefore, I shall leave a occasion. in my narrative, and only resume it at chasm
scenes

the

period

when

the fire

was

luckily

extin

guished, and tranquillity restored. fire was The occasioned by the dilapidated Being placed state of the kitchen chimney.
close to the outer
never

wall of

our

have
been

not

any occasioned in so bad a condition. it appeared,

cabin, it would it accident, had

The

compo
leav

nent

parts,
an

had

given

way,

ing

opening

towards

to communicate

the wall, large enough heat and sparks of fire ; these

ignited the and afterwards An dry wood- work. early discovery of the it at to extinguish fire enabled the captain first blackened
once.

As

soon

as

the danger
to

was

over,

asked
that
we

if he

intended
not,

repair
course

the chimney, of
our

might
a

in the

voy

age, be

to a time exposed second His answer confirmed catastrophe.

similar
me

in

my

former and

opinion

as

to

neglect

Western
up

carelessness I have States.

"

prevalence of life in the of human

so

the

many

times gone

the Mississippi with the chim and down any accident hap ney in this state, without that I do not see the necessity pening to me, of making

any

alterations

or

taking

any

pre-

COMPANY

IN

THE

STEAMER.

109 Ac
our

caution

against
we

an were

imaginary
obliged

danger."
to

cordingly,
trip

continue

with

the

broken

chimney, than
not
some

in all probability more fire, had the vessel on

which would have once set

of the pas
water
on

sengers,
heated

at

intervals,

thrown

the

walls.
now

I have
tance
a

proceeded

considerable

dis said

up the Mississippi,
about

without

having

word
on

be New

board.

to the company who happened My fellow-passengers from

were

Orleans
on
a

chiefly persons
Atlantic

from

States

bordering
home
after

the

Ocean,

returning

short residence

in the latter city.

I passed

in their agreeable

society moments been

new on

which
ous.

would

otherwise

have

very

tedi

But, at every landing-place,

were

passen

gers, chiefly farmers,

some

taken
"

board,
horse,
to pos
manners

of whom

were

in reality

half

half alligator ;" others again seemed fund of information, and a good sess

to the first place among entitling them States. in the Eastern They even were

men

nerally

frank,

hospitable,
on

and

ge having jovial,
to
as

apparently

nothing Their

the

mind
was

depress original
conver

their spirits.
as

language

the

they subjects

discussed.

No

sation, however

brief, could

take place, with-

110

GAMBLERS.

full of proportion of anecdotes ; jocoseness and in less than five minutes

out
a

due

auditory were generally the whole convulsed But these were not the only with laughter.
persons

added
an

to

our

number.

We

also

re

ceived
who upon

accession

of those despicable

beings,

make

gambling

their winnings.
to

their profession, and live Every from steamboat

is filled with societies

Pittsburg persons,

New

Orleans
regular young

such
"

who
to

form
"

among

themselves,

pluck

and

inexperien

ced pigeons." A number of

disgraceful

contrivances,

il

lustrative of their profession, were mentioned to me, as practised by these hard-hearted

gamblers unwary.

to

lull suspicion,

and

ablest and most hardly more and Paris are piers of London dexterous, or can their legerdemain perform

The

plunder the barefaced crou

tricks with

more

How sharpers. farmers return

fairness than these apparent often industrious and honest in despair

to their wives

children, totally ruined and reduced Orleans, sold gary, after having visited New their crop, received the proceeds, and, on the
home
rate

and to beg

voyage,

fallen into the hands

who

of despe

gamesters every dollar !

have

stripped

them

of

SCENES

ON

DECK.

Ill

Fatigued
looks

with

beholding

the cold-blooded

and the pale visages of the gamblers, of the victims at the hazard-table, I hastened
into the open

air, anxious

to shun

the sight

to ruin each clearly endeavouring The evening was the cool, but serene; other. I in all their brightness. stars appeared

of

men,

seated

myself

on

deck, trying

to dispel by

the

contemplation lection of
me
so

of the
was

before me objects I had just scene Nature,

that

the

recol

witnessed. grand
not
;

Around
a

and majestic
both banks

stream
seen

wide the
same

could

be

at

time,

dark, a massive, sembling In the fore-part of the steamboat

of engineers,
were now

forest re a and interminable wall.

were
a

group

whose
then

blackened
brightened

countenances

and

by

the

re

flexion of the immense and

cular

fires in the

furnaces,

who

laughed

immoderately A

at every

jo

expression.

few
the

merry
same

songs

were

also heard

issuing from

jovial group,
con

each

sally of boisterous
a

cluding with In another

ians
were

copious
corner,
on

mirth generally libation of whisky.

a

half

dozen

Kentuckrelating
escapes, better again,

stretched

their backs, hair-breadth

that
none

to each

other their many

on

and guns

affirming
or

oath

had

wives

than themselves.

Yonder

112

SCENES

ON

DECK.

few

young

sound place

dancing* to the were passengers of an old broken fiddle : and in another an matron aged related to listening how barbarously the Indians had

children

slaughtered

of blessed and eaten her ancestors Here, a man, in years, memory. advanced from the Bible to a nu was reading passages
"

merous

auditory In wrestling.

there, two word,

I
saw

champions

were
no

thing
nocent

but singing, laughing, mirth around

a
me,

and heard dancing, and night

was

in

until

far

advanced, and cages, informed

dawn
was near

few
me

confined in game-cocks, by their crowing that Every

one

at hand.

repaired far better

to his birth, and

I hastened

to mine,

satisfied with the time I had if I had watched the gamblers ill-gotten harvest.
Ninth

thus spent

than their

gathering

this morning, we per left, and, on our ceived the State of Missouri Kentucky, in the forenoon, on the opposite
"

Day.

Early

shore.
same
we

The

landscape
as

continued

to be of the
noon
a

character

before.

Towards formerly
now

arrived
town,

at

New

Madrid, may
the
a

flou

rishing ubi
place

to which

be

applied this those

so

Troja fuit.
was

In

year

1812,

visited by
natural

succession

of

dreadful

phenomena,

earthquakes,

DESTRUCTIVE

EARTHQUAKE.

113

common

in the South, which

have buried cities

without number, and consigned millions of human beings to a premature The grave. New Madrid is that destroyed earthquake described
historians
as even

having
state
ever

been

peculiarly violent

the strongest number

that the shocks were It is not the experienced.

of victims which, in this instance, in being small and the town the spires awe, littlepeopled. neighbourhood
But

the extent moulded,

of country and

which

was

sha

ken,

new

swallowed

up, by this

so was convulsion, extraordinary consider of surprise how able, that it is stilla matter any living being could possibly survive the

catastrophe.

From

the river St. Francis

to

the mouth of the Ohio, a distance of about laid waste three hundred miles, the shock Lakes every thing with dreadful violence. formed in place of sand-hills, and islands were lakes formerly where valleys appeared Madrid existed. Nearly all the houses in New and
were

destroyed
was

inmates,

the cemetery, with its silent into the Missis precipitated

:

sippi.* been
*

Since that time,

to
recover

the

town

has

not

able
"

its former

flourishing

Recollections of the last Ten Years Westward by of Mississippi/' T. Flint ; and See
"

passed in the Valley Ho !" by Paulding.

I

VOL.

II.

114 A

NEW

MADRID.

state.

few

miserable

dwellings

New Madrid where Although in ruins, the place is stilla princi for flat boats descending* the pal rendezvous
show Mississippi.

only now formerly stood.

As

far

as

I could
were

see

with

the

naked
ened

eye, boats
to

of this kind

lying* fast

The Mississippi itself each other. I cannot was almost hid by their number. give a better description of this singular
scene

than

by quoting
work

Mr.
on

Flint's

own

in his excellent

the Valley

words, of Missis
"

sippi, in which he resided ten years : boats In the spring, one hundred
"

have

landed

here in
;

day.

The

boisterous

gaiety

of the hands
ances,

who distances ; the moving the boats ; the numerous

small, which the evidence
; and,

the congratulations of acquaint immense here from have met picture of life on board animals, large and

they carry ; the different ladings,

of
more

the

increasing

above
tances

than have

agriculture dis all, the immense already

traversed,
In
one

which
a

they

afford

copious

fund

of meditation.

place there are boats loaded with pine plank, In York. from the forests south-west of New boats numerous quarter, there are another In Yankee the of Ohio. notions' with boats another quarter are landed together the
'

NEW

MADRID.

115

hemp, with their whisky, tobacco, bagging, and bale-rope; with all the other articles of the produce of their soil. From

of Old

Kentucky,

articles, toge ther with boats loaded with bales of cotton ; from Illinoisand Missouri, cattle, horses, and Country, the general produce of the Western
are same

Tennessee

there

the

with peltry and lead from Missouri. in bulk and Some boats are loaded with corn in the ear; others are loaded with pork in together bulk ; others with barrels of apples and pota toes, and great quantities of dried apples and loads of cider, and Others have peaches. is called 'cider-royal,' or cider that what by boiling or freezing. has been strengthened

Other

boats

are

loaded

with

furniture, tools, implements

;

domestic short, the

and
numerous

agricultural products

in

of the ingenuity,

speculation, manufacture, the whole have come apart.

upper country from regions thousands They have floated to a common

:

agriculture, of They of the West.

and

of miles

point
some

of union
acres.

the surfaces of the boats cover Dunghill fowls are fluttering over
invariable

the

roofs,

the piercingappendages; low ; note of Chanticleer is heard ; the cattle in their stables ; the as the horses trample
as

swine

utter

the

cries of fighting with

I 2

each

116

NEW

MADRID.

other ; the turkeys

gobble

dred regions become travel about from boat to boat, make inquiries and acquaintances, agree to lash boats,' as it
'

the dogs of a hun acquainted ; the boatmen

;

is called, and
assistance
to

form

each
an

alliances, to yield mutual other on the way to New hour

or

Orleans.

After

two

passed

in this

way, they spring on shore, 'to raise the wind' in the village. If they tarry all night, as is it is well for the people of generally the case, the town
course measures

if they do not of the

are

become in which

riotous in the
case,

evening; adopted,
summary

strong

and

sides are the first dawn

both

on the proceedings With and decisive.

all is bustle

and

motion

; and,

amidst shouts, and trampling barking of dogs, and crowing fowls, the fleet is in half an
the way ; and when but the broad stream
sun

of cattle, and of the dunghill

all under rises, nothing is seen

hour

rolling on as before." This evening I bade farewell to the mighty By Mississippi. the different colour of the
miles, I had the is
a

water,,for many

already
"

the

vicinity

of

Ohio.

The

perceived Beautiful
word of

River,"

which
a

translation

of the
purer
ever mass

Ohio, has
water

much
the

clearer and
troubled and

than

muddy
so

Mississippi.

The

Ohio

was

formerly

clear,

JUNCTION

OF

THE

OHIO

AND

MISSISSIPPI.

1 17

that
be

the bottom
:

could

in most

places

easily

seen

this transparency cultivation has

has

sided

since

greatly sub increased its on

the
so

shores.

The

difference of colour between and the

Mississippi conspicuous,
when pear
pose

Ohio
are

is, nevertheless,

that they beside

easily distinguished

running

each

other.

They

ap

like two

for the pur meeting champions for life or death. a contest of deciding
measure

They long
arms

each

other's

strength

for

but
an

rejoice
adversary
at

their sinewy while before they prepare for battle. Both are to fear, strangers to at the idea of being opposed
famed
for courage

and

valour. the

When,
bowels
mute,

last, the struggle tremble.

commences,

of the earth anxiously

Nature

stands
con

waiting

the issue of the and

flict.The sippi,
now

Ohio

is vanquished,

the Missis

furious from

additional violence over At the mouth of the Ohio, States

are

resistance, rages with its extensive domain. three different

seen

at

once,

nois, and
two
ance

Kentucky,

namely, Missouri, Illi forming the banks'of the

meet:
to
me

rivers that here

was

the appear
one

that
seas

of
so

large

lake,

of those America. Missis

immense But

often

found with

in

every

thing

connected
gigantic.

the

sippi is grand

and

118

BANKS

OF

THE

OHIO.

Tenth
extent

Day.

"

The

banks

of the Ohio, for

an

of about
as

features

fifty miles, exhibit the same those of the Mississippi : 'flat,

and

woody,
the

uniform,
of

width
the

the

full of swamps. is the same. stream changes

:

Even
At

length, succeed
tracts

scene

rising

each

other
on

"

here

and

grounds there are flat

of

land,
"

rich woods
"

thick and which stand the banks draw closer and closer
are

every

where

scattered appearance.

islands It
was

of the
no

most
more

picturesque
the grand,
:

dark,
was

and
now

majestic
of
a

Missis

sippi

every

thing

smiling,

to the mind, character agreeable, enlivening Cultivated hitherto disposed to depression.

fields became
seen

more

frequent
even

Indian

corn

was

cotton-fields often to wild Na the eye, too long accustomed met Human habitations ture. their also made
appearance
in greater

in many

places ;

number

than

before,
on

and

domesticated

animals

wandered

the

banks,

instead of snakes and alligators. The barking the lowing of cattle of dogs and delightful to were novel sounds, extremely
those whose
ears

were

but

the noise occasioned

filled with nothing by the uniform and

"

escaping from the shot-like report of steam, high pressure" engine. Each step announced

TENNESSEE

AND

CUMBERLAND

RIVERS.

119

the power

of civilization to remould aspect of Nature.

and

ame

liorate the wild In

the

course

of this day, rivers, the

mouth

of two

passed Tennessee and by

name,

we

the
the
but

Cumberland,
well deserving
streams.

hardly
to rank

known

with many

The
runs

first takes

well-known its source in Vir and Alabama, in the the Ohio has
it is

ginia,

through

Tennessee

discharges itself into and State of Kentucky. Its length ferently stated
sand
two
: some

been
one

dif

pretend

thou

hundred The

miles, others
Tennessee
more

eight hundred. for large boats

miles.

again about is navigable

six hundred

for

than
rises

Cumberland

River

among

the
part

Cumberland
of Kentucky,

Mountains, and
runs

in the eastern

in various

directions

Nashville, this State arid Tennessee. the capital of the latter State, is situated on

through

this river, the length be from about

of which
to

is reported

to

five hundred

six hundred

miles.
A

little further

on

we

came

to
name was

a was

hamlet,
men

When called Golconda. tioned, long before the

naturally
some

this place
see a

in sight, I

expected

to

town,

bearing

resemblance,

in point of splendour

and

romantic

situation, to the oriental city of the

120

GOLCONDA,

same

name.

But

how

terribly
:

was

T disap

pointed

in my

anticipations
near

houses, situated
of

thirty miserable the river, on a flat piece the

whole
no

ground,

constitute
no

town.

No
;

splendour, every

magnificence,
bore the stamp

grandeur

thing

wretchedness.

Such

of poverty disappointments are World. Names

are

and very
given

frequent
to towns

in the New without

they
many

are

reflexion, without often christened by names exist,

as,

judgment ;

already

of which for instance, Man

chester, of which

the State of New

;Vermont,

York
New

has

three

or

four ; Ohio, two

Hamp Pennsyl

shire, Massachusetts,
vania,

Connecticut,
South

Maryland,
Missouri,

Virginia, and
names

Carolina,
each
one.

Indiana,

Mississippi,
are

On other occasions,
calling without them. and
to

mind

places

given to towns, that formerly existed,

to

having
This

the

slightest resemblance
the
case
a

is exactly

with Golconda
want

several

others, showing
on

of taste

and Why

judgment
not

the

part

of the founders.
names,

preserve

the Indian
?
to

always

characteristic and sonorous to impossible It is next many

Even
towns

remember

how

of the

same

name

exist in America.

natives
one

reading

I recollect mistakes. often make in New day, in a newspaper York,

MANCHESTER

IN

MISSISSIPPI.

121

long- description

of

town

said to be situated Mississippi, having* a population inhabitants, thousand newspapers,

chester,

called Man in the State of

of
a

three
bank,

thousand with a capital of three hundred dollars, seven it steamboats plying' between Orleans, a railroad, "c. de The and New
scription
was

drawn
a

up

with

so

much my

ability
curiosity
of this

and
was

in

seducing excited to know Manchester.

to every

so

style, that

modern
course
on

more something I accordingly

had

re

book

that had

been

published

the statistics of the State

of Mississippi.
but
was me

I referred to general and special maps, in vain ; no such town Manchester as be found. This and

all
to

tended
maps

to

convince

that

all the books

too
one

old, and, under

of the

were examined to this impression, I went

I had

principal
more

booksellers, thoroughly. looking

over,

to

investi I again

gate

the matter the

took

trouble scrutiny,

of

with

the

strictest

and
the

subject
no

ail the new having statistical accounts ; but the Mississippi

where

publications
reference
to

Manchester
An

could

be had

discovered.
for
a

elderly

gentleman, my he

who

long time

eager researches, following manner:

now
"

witnessed in me addressed long as Search as

122

LECTURE

ON

STATISTICS.

you please, you will never The Mississippi. town founded

which
no

find Manchester
has

in

probably

been during
raise
a

within map

these

few

has

been

months, To made.

nothing to a certain state of pros only as many perity requires, in the West, in Europe as weeks years, nay, centuries.

place from

Were
sprung

new

maps
no

drawn

for every

town

thus

up,
a

making
would devote
what

elapse would month similar labour necessary. occupation

without

man

have

enough,

were

he

to

his time exclusively

new

to the ascertaining

short disposition
content

places life-time.
to

have He

sprung has who

this study

up
no

during
leisure

his
or

follow with

himself
rumour

closely must derived the information and blindly

from

mere

of rising towns,

that we confide in it ; for it often happens hear of new cities, with banks, newspapers,

steamboats,
able
to

and

cotton

trade, without
exact

being
till

ascertain

their

situation,

after the lapse

or

of several

years, perhaps have

on

five

ten,
a

when

they at length assigned my

to

the honour the maps. from

of

place

them

Follow,

therefore,
; it is

advice:

abstain

all research

On
we

arriving

perfectly useless." this evening, at Shawneetown

a

encountered

real northern

snow-storm.

SNOW-STORM.

123 felt doubly

so

The those

cold

was

intense, and

to

coming-

from

Orleans.
the
any

Snow

the mild climate of Newfell in such abundance that

no

steersman

objectnear
and
it
was

could him,

longer

distinguish
at

and

grumbled

the

darkness
stances,

Under these circum cold. determined to lie-to and wait

tillthe morning. Eleventh Day.

not
so

"

The

storm

continued,

though

The River Wabash, violently. which divides Illinois from Indiana, and runs into the Ohio, could hardly be seen the through thick
about. veil of

snow-flakes
the

that small

were

flying
of

We

Henderson,

passed Owenboro,

hamlets and

Rockport,
a

Troy,
houses,
snow

consisting, as usual, of which I did not visit on

storm

few wooden
account

of the

that stillcontinued. A clear and beautiful though TwelfthDay.

"

cold morning.
narrower,

The

stream

those
small

and the banks Among I had seen. the previously I passed this day, Bran places which
had
a

a little appeared higher than were

denburg
pearance.
two

peculiarly houses
are

The

ap picturesque built between

as

steep mountains, sides

of

extending
which
are

far

as

the

river, the

also

covered

with

dwellings

of various

kinds.

124

LOUISVILLE.

Towards
Louisville,

night
as

we

discovered
are

the Falls of
or

they

called,
is high,

shallows, may easily

the water which, when be crossed by steamers,

gerous

but

made, but the

it is low. A when by which these shallows

very has channel

may

are

dan
been
;

be avoided
so

expence

of passing
case

it is

heavy,

that it is only in

of necessity

that navi

to it. gators have recourse Louisville is unquestionably flou the most in Kentucky. Its situation near rishing town has not a little the shallows just mentioned

contributed years.

to its remarkable

increase

of late
to

All goods
must

sent

from

Pittsburg

New

Orleans
before

here be unloaded
can

and re-shipped,

the vessels
a

Hence,
on,

their voyage. lucrative commission-trade is carried

continue

which

puts

certain capital in circulation

in the place, and diffuses wealth and its inhabitants. The town among the year 1800,
:
a

comfort

had,

in

population it had

of only six hun

dred

souls

in 1830,

increased

to

ten

and thirty-six. The of the houses, as well as the exterior of many general afflu of the streets, bespeak width
thousand
all this, Louisville notwithstanding indifferent impression left but an me. upon it without I quitted on regret, hastening
ence

three hundred

THE

BEN

FRANKLIN

STEAMER.

125
to Cin

board

the first steamboat

proceeding*

cinnati.

Of

all the
as

steamers

that

I have

seen was was

un

in

America,

well

as

in Europe,

this

Her name the worst. questionably Ben Franklin. The vessel itself
from

the
rotten

was

keel

the most had

a

deck, and inconvenient

to

fitted up
manner.

besides The

in

engine

very arduous task to produce a velocity hour, and the paddles were of four miles an badly that they hardly ever so constructed
touched
tance
one

the surface from

The dis of the water. is only Louisville to Cincinnati

and

hundred

quired forty-seven
which lost

yet it re hours to complete it,during

ran

fifty miles, and

period
both

we

chimneys

aground by their

eleven

times,
en

becoming
from

tangled wood
one on

in branches

projecting
consign

the thick
to disable to
a

shore, had

the misfortune

of the sailors, and

another

watery

grave, besides meeting with a number Add to this the company, of other mishaps.
exclusively

composed

was taken whose whole up in ruining each other at the faro-table. In the cabin of this boat was a fac-simile

of professed time, night and day,

gamblers,

of

letter written

by

Franklin,

framed

and be

glazed.

Although

its contents

may

not

126
to many

CINCINNATI. e

unknown

of my

refrain from
as
man,

being and

giving* a highly characteristic representing

him

readers, yet I cannot copy of it in this place,

of the great
:

in true

colours

Philadelphia, July 5th, 1775. Mr. Strahan,

You
are
a

member

has doomed
our are

my

of Parliament, and Country to Destruction

our

one

"

of that You have

which majority begun

"

to burn

Towns

and murder

People

stained with the Blood long friends : You are now

"

upon your hands ! They You and I were of Your Relations! and my Enemy,
"
"

Look

am

Your?,

B. FRANKLIN.

At

last I arrived

at

Cincinnati.
rise of

The

fame had the

men

of

the

extraordinary
excited

this city

beforehand
highest
tioned

degree.
in America

to curiosity my Cincinnati was never

as such surnames Western Queen," ",c.

"

the addition of without The Wonderful," The

"

Flattering exaggerated
so

epithets of
; at least
me
:

this kind they have

are

generally

often appeared in this instance, they were

nati is in every

to

but,

Cincin justified.
extraordinary city; has,

respect perhaps,

an
on

the

only

one,

record, which

in the from

of twenty-five years, sprung up to be a place of great conse nothing

course

quence,

with

population

exceeding

thirty

CINCINNATI.

127

thousand
seum,

souls*.

Banks,

University,
Bazaar,

Mu

Theatre,
are
now

Athenaeum,
seen,

and

Hos

pitals,

century
was

ago, nothing

where, a quarter of a but the primitive forest

standing

untouched.

On

the spot where, and

not

long since, the roaring were the yells of Indians

of wild beasts alone heard,

the

and the hammers of manufactories in motion. Where now are a of workshops fifty to one formerly lay, from solitary canoe machines hundred
steamboats,

besides other craft,

now

ride at anchor. houses, Cincinnati, with its three thousand and public build and hills, churches gardens
its smoking manufactories and nume bustle its active trade and rous wharfs, hundreds and carts, is really of waggons ings,

of
an

extraordinary
this rapid

sight.

Who

is not

amazed

at

advance, many
when

mind,

as

particularly on calling to do, living may persons now

of the Indian
!
was

the time

the wigwam

the only hut in these regions years have

If twenty-five

effected this metamorphosis, what may we not expect when this city is a century increase not, probably, old ! Cincinnati may

in the year 1789; but Cincinnati was The firstsettlement near it was in 1808 that lots of ground were sold for building houses. only to 26,515. The population in 1830 amounted
*

J28 hereafter advance

on
a

CINCINNATI.

in the

same

ratio ; but

that

it will

be doubted. rapidly cannot spot in every respect favourable

Situated
for
com

on and surrounded it must country, continue

an

merce,

all sides by a fertile to flourish and gain well will this increase It may

accession
"

to

its population.

be asked

Where

and

when

end ? The
a

city is situated

near

the River

Ohio, in

and valley, twelve miles in circumference, by a rising' ground, which is seen surrounded The river divides this rich in the distance. well cultivated valley into two and almost equal p^.rts:
on

and, opposite
two

the north side is Cincinnati, to it, Newport and Covington,

small

from

each

towns, manufacturing separated other by the River Licking, which

discharges

itself into the Ohio.

has already the appearance of a large city. The first glance leaves an impres the traveller is far sion of splendour, which in these remote from western anticipating

Cincinnati

regions. and

Handsome

magnificent

brick houses, wide streets, public buildings, strike the

astonished eye of the stranger, who expected houses and narrow lanes. to find only wooden Near the bridge, he sees bustle and the same Orleans and activity as on the quays of New

HOTEL

AT

CINCINNATI.

129

New
sees

York.
at

Advancing

into

the

town,

he

each step brilliant shops, exquisites and dandies lounging about, and ladies at tired in the last Parisian fashions. On enter
ing the hotel, he

finds himself

in

five-story

building, containing apartments without num ber, and halls almost endless. Fatigued, after hour in these pas wandering about for an to get fully sages, which require months
acquainted
carelessly
on

with,
an

he throws

himself

at

last

excellent ottoman,
a

inquiring,
of group Is there
"

with

an

waiters

nonchalance, of constantly in attendance,

air of

"

Sixteen in Cincinnati ?" any newspaper daily journals and periodicals are published here at answers the waiter, hasten

present/'
to

ing to bring
but
a

the

inquirer

not

number
of

places

the
wishes

of others printed Union. Satiated

to

only these, in different with

news,

he

next

ascertain many

(rather from

years' travelling, than with the hope of finding so far west any buildings but huts), there is any whether
"

habit, acquired

during

thing worth
map

seeing ?"

"

Please to look
answer.

over

the

of the town,

sir," is the

A week

is not

sufficient to
who

gratify the
to
see

the

stranger

wishes

curiosity of all that is

interesting at Cincinnati.
VOL.
II. K

130

MRS.

TROLLOPE'S

BAZAAR.

Among* is the
thoress

invariably objects Bazaar,

"

shown

to visiters

built by

the

of

Domestic of A of
means,
more

Manners

au celebrated in America*,"
an

but, for want nished every

state.

left by her in absurd

unfi of

compound
never

species

architecture architect.

the

head

of any

The

entered in sublime
Greek, all here

the Gothic
the
been

style, the

tasteful in the
"

ridiculous

in the Chinese
an

have

together into grouped disfigured whole, which can Gothic a Greek a church,

unnatural

and

neither be called
temple,
a

nor

Chinese
each.
bazaar

pagoda, This
as

but is

partakes
as

little of

building for
a

ill adapted
; and

for
when

dwelling-house

Mrs. Trollope, the first proprietress, could not

make hotel,
it
or a

answer,

it

was

converted

into

an

place for public entertainments

even

balls.

But

; objectionable town
were

soon this plan was for the inhabitants

and found
the fond

of

far from
"

being
is
a

passionately
to be

of dancing.

What
?"
was

now

done

this

building
in my
was

stranger
church,"

presence. answered

put question Convert it into

"

with by a
a

by

the

person

who

showed
*

the house

to travellers.
occasion
to

Mrs. Trollope. I shall hereafter have fully concerning this writer.

speak

more

EFFECTS

OF

HER

DISAPPOINTMENT.

131

Mrs.

Trollope
in

quitted Cincinnati, extremely

her

disappointed
ing
a

expectations

of mak

rapid fortune, and angry with the ungrateful inhabitants, who, in her opinion,

could not appreciate the embellishment which by the erec on their town she had bestowed
tion of the bazaar.
vent

How

her feelings found

is

rica.

work, fortunate
may

in Europe in Ame as well known From her sharpened pen issued un which darted fire and flames over
as

Cincinnati.

From

this moment
began

it

be said that the town attention.

to attract

general
was

upon

the greatest it. The name

tour

contemplated benefit she could of

with

The

reproof bestow made

Cincinnati
the

the

the wind in manners

no

rapidity of ; the peculiarities of its inhabitants, as well as in mode of living, were

of the

globe

veiled in mystery from the world. Assuredly, not a few laughed heartily at the longer ludicrous and satirical picture ; but impartial judges discerned, through the sarcasm, suffi
cient ground

search
thing

for admiration its respecting

and deeper re Is there any object.

sublime serious and existence so into ridicule and that it may not be turned derision ?

in

1 freely admit

that many

things
K2

in Cincin-

132

CHARACTER

OF

THE

INHABITANTS.

nati

may

laughter, European vanishes reasonable

state

extort strange, nay, even to especially from one accustomed

appear

habits
upon
to

and
closer

manners

; but

surprise Is it

examination.
in this place

expect

the

same

of society as in the rope ? Is it reasonable

that
a

larger towns
to

of Eu
I repeat,

expect,

town,

whose century,

age

only dates possess have

back the
same

quarter

of

should
and

refinement
same

of

manners,

made
as
a

the
place

progress

in arts and

sciences,

of several hundred I could discover

years' standing? its citizens among predilection,

I thought
a

burning thing
emi

desire,
new.

strong

for every
to
new
see

Accustomed
with whom show
a

grants,
ances,

constantly they form

degree

they

acquaint of indifference to
influences
a

each

other, and

this characteristic
stamps them

their actions, and want of feeling.

"

with

certain

deep

and guest,"

permanent

an

absent

says

recollection of Flint,* in speaking

"

of

the

citizens of by for the the

so

Cincinnati,

is

soon

dis pre of

pelled
pared
a

unmeaning
stranger. In

reception the midst

a

population

composed, moving,

of which
and

great
be

proportion
*

is daily

cannot

Flint's

"

History and Geography

of the Mississippi Valley."

JOURNEY

TO

WHEELING.

133

said to belong
can

exclusively find refined another

to Cincinnati,
manners,

who

expect

to

arts,

and

sciences ?

But
on

generation

will

come,

which,

born

the spot, will forget the

preju-

judices and

The peculiarities of parents. light of intellect, now will only glimmering, then burst into a blaze, and, diffusing its influ
ence
over

all classes, equalize the inequalities character of the

in

the

people.

Who

can

beneficial effect it will produce on the general mass of people in the Western States ?" of the
After
a

doubt

short my
on

stay

in this interesting

town,

I continued

journey towards
a

the

North,

and
to

went

board
This

steamboat

proceeding about
is only

Wheeling. days,
hundred

journey occupied
the

three

although

distance

and sixty miles : long deten indifferent machinery tions at landing-places, three
on

board,

an

unskilful steersman,
some

"c., may

be

mentioned

as

of the

causes
on

of this slow

progress.
river
was

The

landscape
the

both sides of the

as on

invariably

same

the banks the Missis

of the
sippi.

Ohio,

near

its outlet

into

The
"

"

rica

author* of says in one

*

Men

and
:
"

Manners The
great

in Ame

place

defect

Hamilton,

author of "Cyril

Thornton."

134

SCENERY

OF

THE

OHIO.

of the scenery of the Ohio During the first day I was

is want

of variety.
; but,
on

delighted

was the second, something of the charm became its monotony at length and

gone
almost

tedious."
found
in

Want

by another

of variety ! This is the fault acute and impartial traveller, River.

is
none

speaking in streams banks

are

of the Beautiful

Of

all

America,

less uniform

whose than those of the Ohio.

there

Mountains

each other valleys succeed with great rapidity, diversified by rich and is Nature fertile fields and wild woods. and perhaps
shores
more

not

so

of the

grand and Mississippi,

as majestic

on

the
are

but the

scenes

and charming berless islands, scattered

varied
no

to the eye.

Num

in the Ohio, embel

a

lish, in

small in

degree,

picture
was

already
even
a

abounding
greater

beauty. of trees

There than

variety

cinnati ; those which

appeared

south of Cin in the greatest

the
maple,

profusion ash, ",c.

were

the sycamore,

the

The

banks

were

generally

high

signs could, however, be traced of inundations In by the swelling of the river. occasioned
the
1832, the Ohio rose of February, month low-water not less than fifty feet above mark,

and
there

it

was

still not
of

unusual

to

see
even

here and
whole

pieces

wood,

planks,

DESTRUCTIVE

INUNDATION.

135

canoes,

perched
towns

on

the tops which

of trees.

Many

of the small

embellish

the banks

exhibited visible traces of this dreadful inundation, the greatest within the memory
yet
of
man.

The

walls of houses
at which
even

bore

marks

of had

the different heights stood, and

on
some

the water

had

these

the chimneys,
risen.

showing* thrown

how

white marks high the river

as

had

Houses

down,

well

as

sand-hills newly formed, piles of branches and fields, and torn-up streets, trees, devastated all proved the destructive
effects of the flood

These,

together

with numberless

other

objects,
view,

continually
and

presenting

themselves

to

the beautiful and herself, render

so

pleasing
a

Nature
from

appearance trip on the Ohio

wearisome
as

of far the

being

uniform

and

author The

justquoted
and

would
near

make

one

believe

principal towns

the river, between

are

Cincinnati
Portsmouth,

Wheeling,

Maysville,

Marietta. Among these, and for in particular, is remarkable Portsmouth, a canal, which, uniting the Ohio with Lake
Erie, here cation has has

its outlet. A water communi been opened between the city of and

New
canal
it may

York
; and

the Ohio,
very

by

means

of this

with

littleadditional

trouble

be extended

to all the large

Western

136

PORTSMOUTH.

rivers, and

thus

form

an

inland

navigation miles
in

nearly eight thousand length. Portsmouth

population
and

five hundred
will

then

increase

in

wealth, and I should not be at hence, that to hear, ten years all surprised has become one this town of the most flourish ing
in

the

Western

States. does
not

The

present
one

number thousand
a

of inhabitants
; yet

they

have

already
even

exceed a bank
now

and they
also

printing
not

office.

Perhaps

publish
an

only

opposition

administration having a paper,

to support

an

but

number

of subscribers

sufficient Can them.

so

this be said of places

a

in Europe
it be

with

population

Can

said of any

small city in

the

Old

World,
even

thousand, Towards
arrived

twenty with ten thousand, fifty thousand, inhabitants ?

on

evening

the following

day,

at the

mouth
about

of the Great
one

Kenhawa and ninetyIt has The

River,

distant

hundred

four miles from a town of that name. its source in the Alleghany Mountains
waters

of

this

stream
one

contain

so

great

quantity may
From

of salt, that

be extracted
two

from

bushel of this article hundred one gallons.

to three
are

hundred

thousand
of salt

hundred
made here. But

thousand

bushels

annually

at the salt-works

lately established

LOGAN,

THE

INDIAN

CHIEF.

137 of his
those

this river is also renowned

in the page

tory,

and

who value Several murders

particularly interesting* to the Indian character.

had, early in the spring of on 1774, been committed white persons living in the Stateof Ohio: for these murders the Cay uga
tribe of Indians accused. well known
able Logan all
over
was,

probably

without

reason,

was

then their chief, a man the country for his peace peculiar

disposition, To

and

friendship

for

the Whites.
cities,
a

number any

these imputed atro avenge determined to of Whites of that tribe whom they

murder

Indian

happen to meet might Colonel Crespal placed band. this sanguinary the Kenhawa filled with
not

with ; and a certain himself at the head of They proceeded fell in with a
and
were

down
canoe

River, Indian

and

women

children, who,
easily made These
But

suspecting and

any

harm,

prisoners
were

unmercifully
own
was

massacred.

Logan's
of cruelty

wives
not
a

and children.

this

act

to endure

suaded

yet another his opinion to change

; he had solitary one before he could be per

of the Whites.

Shortly
were

afterwards, both murdered.

his
He

brother could
now

and
no

sister

longer

suppress

summoned

his thirst for vengeance. to arms, his countrymen

His voice and

was

138

LOGAN,

THE

INDIAN

CHIEF.

by the cold-blooded mur with dismay for a conflict derers. Both parties prepared for life or death. Logan placed himself at
heard
the

head

of

host
a

of Indians,

and

against
troops

these from

marched Virginia.

of regular number An obstinate and

bloody
of

battle, fought the

between

them

at
on

the mouth the 10th

Great
in

Kenhawa
the
same

River,
year,

of
all
was

October
Logan's

frustrated

plans for the future. dispersed, and himself became this emergency
the
ble

His army
a

fugitive.

In

he making

Whites, speech,
:

a treaty with concluded the following remarka

praised

by

both

Jefferson

and

Clinton
"

I appeal
entered

to any

White
cabin if ever

man

to say, if he

ever

Logan's
meat
:

hungry, he
came

and

he

gave naked,

him

not

cold and

During he clothed him not. the bloody war, course of the last, long, and idle in his cabin, an advocate Logan remained Such was for peace. my love for the Whites, and pointed as they passed, countrymen is the friend of White men.' and said, Logan lived with you, to have I had even thought Colonel man. for the injuries but of one
that my
'

Crespal,

the

last spring, murdered

in cold

blood

and
of

unprovoked,

all the

relations

LOGAN,

THE

INDIAN

CHIEF.

139

Logan,

not

even

sparing
runs

There children. in the veins of

not

my drop

women

and blood
This
it ;

of my

any

living

creature.

called
I have

on

for revenge ; I have sought killed many fully glutted ; I have

me

my

For my country, I at vengeance. rejoice the beams of peace ; but do not harbour a thought that
mine is the

joy

of fear.
on

Logan

never

felt fear.
save

will not turn his life. Who is there ?

"

He

his heel
mourn

to

to

for

Logan
This

Not

one."

says length

hero, unfortunate himself, none to mourn

a

he had, as who his loss, fell at To their

victim

to

assassination.
was

dishonour
by

be

it said, Logan
:

murdered

the Whites

He leftof all my
Nor
man,
nor

tribe

child, nor thing of living birth: No ! not the dog, that watched my household hearth, Escaped, that night of blood, upon our plains !
left on earth ! All perished ! I alone am To whom no relative nor blood remains, in human No ! not a kindred drop that runs

veins ! f

The

Great

Kenhawa
the

River

must

not

be

confounded

with

Little Kenhawa,

about close
to

seventy
which

miles

higher

up and

the

Ohio,

the

beautiful

romantic

Island

of

Vide Thatcher's " Indian Biography." Campbell's " Gertrude of Wyoming."

140

BLENNERHASSETT'S

ISLAND.

Blennerhassett
to

is situated.
no

From

Pittsburg
can

Balize

there is

island
been

that

be

com

pared and
serves

to it : it has

called Paradise the

name.

celebrated by poets Island ; and well it de many

princes would

How

be glad to exchange the dominion of unruly in the kingdoms for this peaceable retreat midst
name

of the Ohio

rich Irishman
is said to have

of the settled
built
sums
a

of Blennerhassett it in former times,

on

and

to

have Large him

mansion

unequalled
were

in America.

of money

expended

by

in embel

lishing
into
a

the

spot, and

regular

converting English park.

precincts

the woods Hospitality

within reigned little kingdom. The reached

fame

the

of this happy

of Blennerhassett's Mountains.

Island

soon

the Alleghany

No

stran

ger

thought

of visiting
a

the Western

States,
Island,
soon
ac

without where

making
every
a

call at the far-famed

was

one

welcome.

It

equal to that of the Ohio and It was Mississippi. just about this time Burr * Aaron that the celebrated entered quired
fame
into

his
was

well-known

hassett
*

persuaded

conspiracy. to joinhim

Blenner

with
an

purse
advanced

Aaron

age.

He

Burr is stillalive, (1834) and has reached York. New is living privately at

BLENNERHASSETT'S

ISLAND.

141

and

person.

The the

scheme

was,

however, arrested, this

soon

discovered,
tried
for

conspirators

and the

treason.

From hitherto

period,
seat

beautiful

Island,

the and

of hap
fell into
a

piness, with

its mansion
now

park,
to

decay, and may Votaries ruin.

destiny happiness
awaits

be compared
of ambition,

solitary
what

behold of you

you ! your

Many
own

possess and
Few

within
must

precincts,
of it !

yet you
are

go afar in search

those who are satisfied with their lot, and How desire nothing; more. we often have
not
an

Island like Blennerhassett's

still think
!
we

reach, but right

one

have
in the

within not found

after
A

our

the
an

We
we

grope hold

dark hand.

objectwhich
light confuses
are

in

our we

false
we

our

sight ;

imagine

that

at

length and

in the

track

of the looked-for

happiness,
lo ! in

seize it with

eagerness
moment,
we

"

but,
we

the

impetuosity
and

of the what

open

our

hand,

allow
was

already the
case

possess with
scenes

to escape.

This
;

exactly
is
a

Blennerhassett

this

picture

of

At

daily passing before our eyes. I quitted the steamboat, Wheeling

leave of the Ohio.

and

took
so

The

town

appeared with how-

that it was sooty and unpleasant, very little regret I left it. It contains,

142

SLEEPING

TRAVELLERS.

ever,

as

was

informed,

nearly

six thousand
course

souls,

in the and will probably, a flourishing time, become city. The clock had just struck two,
were

of

when

the
in
as

travellers

order
the

roused from their slumber, for departure. As soon to prepare

was

stage
an

filled with

people,

to

whom

soon re stranger, and who they had been the sleep from which sumed we started. The night wakened, prematurely dark, and the road, although was called was

utter

national,"*
a

so

indifferent that My

slow

rate.
over

at advanced fellow-travellers had this

we

advantage while really

me,

that

they

could

journeying along
envied
were

their

nightcaps dark, and

discordant and then

white the only visible in the objects

was

this stony happiness. The

sleep road : I

conversation

confined

to

few

sounds

with which

annoyed
was

my
greeted
in

ears.

the sleepers now The approach delight

coach
;

of morning

with the

by the the
an

only

person

awake

nouncement

of the arrival of the stage

at

at the

place

for breakfasting

length
were

roused

the

slumbering
*

group.

Nightcaps

removed,

This road is made at the public expence, and is intended to States. It commences at Balti unite the Atlantic and Western Ohio, Indiana, through more, passes the Ohio at Wheeling, and runs to Illinois, St. Louis, in Missouri. and

THE

ALLEGHANY

MOUNTAINS.

143

wigs pared,

combed,

eyes

rubbed,
was

and,

thus

pre

the whole
to attack
an

company

immediately
con

ready

indifferent breakfast, and coffee-water

dish in Virginia.

sisting of lukewarm chickens, In the

a

broiled

standing

course

of the first day's

we journey,

of Washington passed the small towns has Brownsville, the latter of which turesque situation
on

and
a

pic

the river Monongahela,

into the Alleghany runs afterwards which River, and jointly the Ohio. with it forms has several manufactories, Brownsville and
seems

to be in

prosperous

state.

We

had

scarcely

the country

before quitted Wheeling a hilly appearance, assumed and

uninterruptedly

this sea-like region continued

till we
town,

had

passed

small place called Unionmiles

about the

seventy Alleghany

from

Wheeling,
began
here has
to
a

where show
more

Mountains country

themselves.

The

Hills give place to mountains, and the valleys have the dusky distinguishes those in beautiful tinge which Laurel Switzerland. Hill was the highest
imposing
appearance.
mountain
some

I passed

; the landscape

here bore be
I

resemblance

to the Alps,

but cannot Vegetation,

compared
admit,
was

with

the

latter. rich
:

particularly

there

were

val-

144

THE

ALLEGHANY

MOUNTAINS.

leys

and

mountains, precipices
not

extensive

and

smiling

prospects,
still it
was

; but also in abundance The Alleghany Switzerland.

Mountains,
a

it cannot

be denied,

are

clothed

in

wild mantle ; but the wildness has not that form so peculiar to the valleys of Switzerland. Generally, these mountains to me appeared
sur and with a smoother face than the Alps : I could discover no where In a word, summits. pointed, snow-covered

of

rounder

shape

the Alleghany
extensive,

Mountains
cannot

are

unquestionably
in competi
a

but

be

placed

tion with Blanc and

that chain
a
o

which Jungrfrau. second in Maryland, the following

the

possesses

Mont

We land,
a

passed
town

night
and

at

Cumber
our

continued

journeyearly
mountainous

morning,

through
re

districts and spects like those I had seen

valleys, in all the two

days.
the

The

course

precedingroad, in several instances, followed forms the of the Potomac, which

boundary winding
and

between

Virginia
curves one

in numberless

Maryland, and between hills

mountains.

On

of these hills, at the

foot of which had a runs the Potomac, we little adventure, once at unfortunate and ludicrous, which gave rise during the rest of the

journeyto

frequent

sallies of wit.

CRAZY

STAGE.

145

The
down,

stage coach and another

had

substituted of horses. Every before the animals even the

been

of a in its place at the firstrelay fault with it, found some one
were

shortly before broken very doubtful character

harnessed there
was

; but

driver

assured

us

that

not

better coach in the United diction to this statement,

several parts, objectionable

States.
we

In contra him

showed

and
our

protested carriage, in were

however,

against the
so

continuing
and

unanimously journeyin

wheels
a

crazy

of which springs driver, The condition.

renewed
as

the

assurance

that

the

coach was the hands

from strong as if it had come of the builder the day before ; add
"

ing, by way of finale, that, strong or weak, be satisfied v\ith it, as no other was we must to be had within the distance of fifteen miles." We
tole started accordingly, and proceeded rably well for a distance of about eight miles. The travellers already began to dismiss the

idea
in
an

of danger, afternoon

and
nap,

were

going

to

indulge
a

when,

steep hill, down which drove full gallop, both hind man way.

in the middle of the imprudent coach

springs

gave

The

received
was VOL.
so

shock which the body of the coach from the lower part of the vehicle the
bottom

violent, that
II.

broke
L

out ;

146

PERILOUS

SITUATION.

and,
recover were

before
from

the travellers

had

had

time

to

their consternation, through

their

feet

dangling

out

lustily "Stop!"
for the driver

than

To call the opening. infinitely more was easy to check four galloping
con

horses.

Some
in

fined
mean

of the ill-fated passengers, in this shattered coach, had

the

time, by the violent shaking,

so

fallen from

their seats, ground. but to

run

that their feet trailed upon the They had now no other alternative
as

fast
were

as

tunately,
was

none

the wheels rolled. hurt, although the holes ; follow

a
a

For road

full of stones

and

few

bruises, boxing;o

similar to those which

severe

match, trophe.

were

the

only
were

result
at

of

this catas

The

horses

length

stopped
crept

at the foot of the hill,and

the passengers the

out

one

by

one,

others through driver, stupified

windows, The the hole at the bottom.

on

some

through

beholding
"

the state
name

of the

in the What, vehicle, exclaimed, God, has become ?" of the bottom

of

The

journeywas
an

continued,
cart,

partly
we
came new

on

foot,
a

partly in

open

until

near

place called Hagerstown,

was

procured.

None

where a of us, however,

coach

ventured the bot

to enter
tom;

it without

first examining

and,

having

found

it firm,

we

started

RAILROAD.

147
at

afresh, and

arrived

early in the morning-

Fredrick.
a of making great undertaking rail road, for the purpose of uniting the Atlantic States, had in the progress of and Western

The

execution seventy

reached miles from

as

far

as

Point
At

of Rocks,

Baltimore.
nearer

Fredrick,
city, I

which
took
an

is ten miles

to the above

Six

cars,

drawn
soon

of travelling this road. opportunity each filled with sixteen persons, and by horses, started from this place arrival.

after my

The

railroad

in the
resem
an

first part of the journeywas sloping, bling a skittle-ground made upon it was Baltimore clined plane ; near level. When

in
more

a distance completed, it will run miles, the greater part of of three hundred lies across Mountains. the Alleghany which

The

highest and

elevation

it has

to pass

is eight
com

hundred
mencement

eighty-five

feet, at

the

From Baltimore. of the road near Baltimore to Cumberland, the gradual descent will be about fifteen feet ten inches per mile ;
to Ohio

only five feet two inches. The expence of the road already finished is about heavy forty thousand dollars a mile, which thence
charge is occasioned and bridges the number of via found it has been which
L

by

ducts

148

RAILROAD.

absolutely

necessary

to build*.

The

expences will be is
out

of the remainingless considerable.

part, The

was

assured,

whole

undertaking and holds

one

executed
a

by private

capitalists,

prospect

of becoming, speculations
at

in time,

of the

most

lucrative

of its kind. places,

not

By

detention
causes,

different

and

from

other eight

this
a

journey took
long
time

less than
a

hours,
;

very

for

railroad
in
some

excursion
measure

the

delay,
on

however,
account

is

excusable,
a

of their having

only
cars.

short

time

before
is
now,

commenced I presume,

using
per

The

distance

formed
time
at

in five hours.

Without

stopping
my

any

Baltimore, where
in

T continued
I arrived
to

journey to
some

Washington,
of

in the latter end of the

February,

time

attend

sittings of Congress.
*

Vide

"

Flint's History

aad

Geography

of

the

Mississippi

Vallev."

CHAPTER

V.

a or noble ball, for tbe purposes of legislation or justice,, grand for the use learning, is the immediate of property of pile of buildings a the inheritance of the humblest the people, and forms portion of VERPLANCK. citizen.

WASHINGTON
strangers,
culty that and,
it was

was

at

this

time

so

full of

that

it

was

with

the could

greatest

diffi

accommodation
one

be procured;
an or

if by chance

obtained

apartment,
a
now

generally

either the garret

of Negroes, of strangers.

kitchen, fitted
are

the
up

-common

abode

but

for the reception

scarce

Rooms visit the

;

always during however,

for session

those
of

who

city time,

the

Congress

this

the want

of accommodation
of the

exceeded number
to wit

all precedent,
of visitors, who
ness

in consequence

arrived

from

all parts

the ceremony for

of the

inauguration
years,
to

of the

President
on

four additional The

begin
was,

the 4th of March.

not

inconvenience than

nevertheless,

greater
a

that generally
town.

attending

festivities in

small

Exor-

150 bitant

CITY

OF

WASHINGTON.

prices
even

for

inferior

accommodation,
of

without

the
at

satisfaction

signify ingwere

displeasure
order putes

the want But

of comfort,

the
:

of the day.
arose

this

was

not

all

dis
an

as

to the preference

of paying
to grum

unreasonable ble, when position

price, with

permission
was over,

the ceremony

at

the im
citizens.
:

practised
occur case

by the honourable

Such
also

scenes
was

frequently in Europe
in the American
was

such

the

metropolis. the that

a

When founders
it would,

Washington
were

first planned,

buoyed
course

up

with

the

hope
become

in the

of time,

of so worthy in the same increase capital cities in mistake the

not,

great

Republic,
as

and

country. favourite a himself.

scale
a

proportion This was idea

other also, if I General

with

Washington
upon
a

The
: a

scarcely other, before

with

gigantic built at

formed plan was few houses were

from
to

great

distance

each talk

people

already

began

enthusiasm

of the infant prodigy

a

among

cities, which, and

within

century,

would

surpass
and

eclipse all the

pretensions

of Paris

London.

But,

the city making

were

slow progress,

these expectations
no

not

realized.

Where

trade

or

increase

exist, considerable manufactories be expected. Washington cannot

THE

PRESIDENT'S

HOUSE.

151

has

no

impulse
never

of this kind, and

in all proba

bility

scattered, economical

will have if they as farmer

any.

The

houses sifted by
a

are an

had

been
to visit

; and,

neighbour,

it is sometimes

necessary
sand-hills.

to

cross

fields

or

dusty

The

uncultivated like streets are

the deserts with

vania

of Arabia,
a

blinding

quicksand,
Avenue,
a

real

the pedestrian Pennsyl nuisance.

the

leads in
house The House,

straight

thoroughfare, principal line from the President's

a

to the Capitol,

distance
or

of

one

mile.

Presidential
as

Palace,
a

the

White
brick

it is called, is

plastered
on

building,
without

with much

rows

of pillars
to

both

fronts,
or
ar

pretension

classical
on
an

chitectural ground,

beauty.

It stands

elevated

surrounded

by four

other

buildings,

exclusively
one

of

for public offices'*. In adapted these is a collection of portraits of

Indian with for

chiefs
the

who

have
or

concluded

treaties

government,
purpose
or

visited Washington
This collection

some

other.

is interesting, without

considered

as

deposited

the

any great value, is also Here mere paintings. document important which de-

having

One of these buildings, occupied by the Treasury Department, destroyed by fire in the course was not rebuilt of this year, and was iu the summer of 1834.

152

THE

CAPITOL.

claired the independence

of America

it is to
by

be regretted

that

this interesting

paper,
so

being- constantly and

worn

copied,

has

been without

defaced difficulty
in par

out,
can are

that it is not read.

that it
ticular,

be

The

signatures,
some

very

indistinct, and altogether.

of them
not

have
serve

disappeared
it in
a

Why

pre

Charta
belongs
to every

like the Magna glass frame, of Great Britain ? It is a jewelwhich

to the people,

and

is equally precious

citizen.

Capitol, also situated on an eminence, is surrounded by an Between iron railing. have this inclosure and the edifice, footpaths
been

The

laid out,

winding

under

trees.

beau
from

tiful flight of steps leads to the Capitol

Pennsylvania
of which marble, may

Avenue be
seen

;
a

on

one

of the platforms
column

naval

of white
same
ma

erected on a pedestal of the terial. It is intended as a monument

naval poli.
column

to those

fell in the war with officers who The first intention was to surround by
for
water
some

Tri

this aban

but

the with

plan which

was

doned,

reason

am

not

acquainted,
on

and
as

the monument
as

now

stands

rock,

dry

possible. painted

The white.

Capitol
A dome

is built of brick, and

has been

raised

in the centre,

THE

CAPITOL.

153

on

both

sides

of which

the

national

flag

is

flying- while
tecture

Congress

is sitting*. The

archi of

of this building

partakes
to

too

much

the

old French
The

school

please

the

present

taste.

Versailles
copy

to have taken architect appears for his model, and to have made a

of it, preserving

all the

defects

of the
in
as

the improvements old style without adding Ornaments taste of later times. seen, are
if sprinkled,

without
are
me

calculation,

over

the The

walls, and whole and

pillars

crowded
a

together.

appeared

to

kind

of patchwork,
as
a

produced

the

same

effect

literary

effusion, the author of which, to hide the po verty of ideas and their want of originality, is
to have obliged bastic language.
recourse

to

lofty and

bom

Some

of the late architects, the building, parti

who

were

employed Latrobe,

upon

to remedy this endeavoured found im littleness in the details ; but it was

cularly

practicable There are,

rior
as

to

remove

however,
as

all the original defects. some parts in the inte exterior

a

well
are

the

of

this noble

edifice,
archi of Re

which
tecture,

models and among

of

pure

and

these, the Hall

indisputably
sons
"

presentatives

occupies
of

the first and

ablest

place.

One

America's

architects

calls this building

magnificent

154

THE

CAPITOL.

monster."* architectural cism is perhaps rather

This
severe,

laconic but

criti

it is not

destitute of truth.

rotunda with four doors, in form at resembling* the Pantheon It is intended Rome. to decorate the walls of the hall with paintings illustrative of events History, the place being in every in American
the
a

Beneath

dome

is

respect

well

light coming

for that purpose, the adapted from above and throwing a most shade of
a on

advantageous
short
existence

the

pictures.

The
as

the

Republic

has

yet

only permitted be thus

small

place
Four

: ornamented for the record

portion of the walls to futurity also claims a

of memorable

deeds.
seen

at present only are paintings by Mr. this spacious hall, all executed

in

Trum-

bull, from

an

American

artist of note,

who

traced he

memory

many
on

of the
canvass.

scenes

which

has delineated
represent
ence : :

These

1st, The

Declaration

paintings of Independ
:

2d,

Washington's

Resignation
at

3d,
:

General
4th, The
a

Burgoyne's

Surrender

Saratoga

Battle of Yorktown. have been

Penn

Between

these,
one

few

basso-relievos represents the

put

up,

of
a

which

William
Indians,
Speech
on

concluding the landing

treaty with
*

another

See G. C. Verplanck's

the Fine Arts in America.

THE

HALL

OF

REPRESENTATIVES.

155

of the Pilgrims Boone's* combat

at Plymouth,

third, Captain
at
once,

with

two

Indians

and the fourth, Captain Smith's interference death by the of

Viewed relievos

f escape

from

Pocahontas.

with
are

the eye of an artist, these bassoof little value, and not deserving

the place which they occupy. The Hall of the Representatives the best
can

is perhaps

adapted The

room

for its purpose

are

that

be

seen.

dimensions
it is not

magnificent,

and thing

in splendour

of its kind.
on

The

excelled by any form is a semicircle, Round the walls of

of
a

resting

an

even
are

base.

the semicircle kind

tasteful

pillars, made with

a

of composition, colour, which

to

and

painted

mottled
pleasing

similar in kind also adorn another part of the room, is the Speaker's"! front of which chair, a few

the

eye.

produces Columns

grey effect and is

of
a

steps

above

the

level of the floor.

Below

it,

sit the

secretaries,

ferent papers,

the pillars,
*

are

in reading dif employed ",c. ; and, higher up, between galleries for the accommoda-

Captain Boone was the firstsettler in Kentucky. See Thatcher's " Indian Lives," volume ii. f \ In the following Session, 1 833-34, an alteration was made by the chair of the Speaker from the straight side of the room removing The that the reason to the centre assigned was of the semicircle. directed to the cir better heard when the sound was were members but at all be the case, ; this may possibly cular part of the room has not gained any thing in point of appearance. the room events

156
tion

THE

HALL

OF

REPRESENTATIVES.

of the public, press.

as

well

as

for reporters

for

the

The

members

are

and writing-tables. arm-chairs keep their heads covered, number

caps,

with provided The greater

some

with speak

they which ing, but the

than

only

removed

when

majoritywere
on

sitting

rather Very their seats.

reclining few ap
but

peared

to take

any

interest in the debate,

in writingthemselves continually employed or letters, reading conversing newspapers, The opposition mem with their neighbours.

bers
them,

have

no

particular parties

place

assigned

to

both The

intermixing
of members, and

indiscrimi

nately.
was

number
two

this session,

about
were

hundred

forty, of whom York, twenty

forty eight
from

from

the State of New and

from

Pennsylvania, being

twenty-one

Virginia,

the three
member

largest States
of
a

in the Union.

One

out
seven

popula in

tion of forty-seven

thousand
to

hundred
so

every York,
1830,

State

is sent

Congress,
to

that New
census

possessing,
a

according
of
one

the

of

population

million nine hundred six

and

eighteen souls, has a

tives.

thousand
right
to

hundred forty

and

eight

send

representa
at

Florida

again,

counting
seven

this time

only

thirty-four

thousand

hundred

and

thirty settled inhabitants

within her territory,

THE

SENATE

HALL.

157

delegate to Congress, who could send but one House, but no right to has a seat in the Lower Until a State has reached the amount vote.
of population

prescribed
incorporated
name

by

law, it is not the

con

sidered
only

as

with

Union;

it

goes by the latter class there

Arkansas,
to

of territory. only

Of the
Florida,

are

three

and

Michigan,
The

Washington.

delegates sending annual increase of these

so

territories is, however, every

reason

rapid, that there is

to

suppose

they

will, within

very short time, be raised to the dignity States. free and independent House Senate is the American The
Lords,
or

of

of

and
from

consists

of

forty-eight
Their

senators,

two

each

State.

hall is much inferior to the

same

smaller, and

in many

respects

fitted up nearly upon the other, though It looks more clean and polished plan. the House kind ought being
nators

than

of Representatives, which

and

inspires that

of respect

to produce.

every similar assembly This impression is far from

seeing the respective
of them

diminished
take

on

Se
an

their places. and

a

Each

has
unco

arm-chair

writing-table. the dignity

All

are

vered, and support I entered When

time,

of statesmen. for the first this assembly

the

subjectunder

discussion

was

that

158

SPEECHES

IN

CONGRESS.

which sorbed namely,

and
tween

for months

past

had
all

exclusively
over

ab

public
the

the country, Nullification in South Carolina,

attention mode of
matters adjusting

the best

be

all parties. The

President

had already,

proclamation of the 10th 1832, in a great measure of December, quelled the spirit of rebellion in the South ; but, in

by his well-known

Congress,

the

conflict between

of free trade the

and

those home

the advocates of higher duties for manufactures

still
in mak

protection

of

continued.
ing long

Both
speeches

parties persevered in support

of their respec

tive positions, which

had

no

other result than

to without coming sacrificing several months This on the waste of time any decision. has been much censured ;* part of Congress

but

it is

an

evil that
nature

cannot
a

being

in the

of

remedied, form of republican

of the

be

government. people do not

view
of

The
make

Representatives speeches
their

solely with

the

enlightening them
on

convincing
and
"

and of the justness their ideas of

colleagues

opinions

the
a

subjectunder
secondary

discussion

this is too often

*

consideration,

Session, no less than seven decided respecting the were spent, and yet nothing was months Debates Deposit Question,or the United States' Bank. took place daily.
In the
course

of the

following

SPEECHES

IN

CONGRESS.

159

an

unnecessary

trouble, according' to their very seldom

own

confession : a member his views from hearing

another of a No, it is for the peo opinion from himself. constituents, that he delivers ple, for his,own that, orations in the Capitol;"* well knowing
t journals,he widely-circulating speeches will reach the homes of those who have sent him to Congress, and whose good opinion through
the

changes different

he thus hopes election

remain

to

preserve,
secure

so

that at the next

he
at

facturing
time

suffrages, and This manu the post of honour. entails a great loss of of speeches
may All the
mem

their

in the

bers
time

passing of a Bill. Houses wished of both in long to express, and their opinion

first to
well

have

digested Nullifica

speeches,
tion, and
as
come

respecting

the

proposed
to

of the old Tariff', modification by Mr. Clay, before they would

any
to

decision.

But,

as

Congress,

ac

cording
obliged

the letter of the Constitution, was before the 4th of March, to

adjourn
time

the period President,

*Thut

fixed for the

no

was

of the left to deliver the dif-

inauguration

ble fact.

be proved by an incontroverti can this is really the case, One of the members in Congress having been prevented from delivering a long speech which he had prepared,, simply said a matter that it was of perfect indifference to him, provided he conld he came. it printed and sent home to the State from which get This request was complied with.

160

DEBATES

ON

NULLIFICATION.

ferent speeches
was,

at full length ; the consequence

that
as

Mr.

Clay's
only

proposition

was

consi

dered

the

means

of preserving
was

the there

The integrity of the Union. Bill fore passed, the day before the

adjournment
night

of Congress,
between

which

took

place

in the

the 2nd

and

3rd of March. of the

new

That

the adoption
a

duty

was,

in

fact, rather
to remain

both

the

than a law intended compromise by long in force, is fully admitted and northern parties ; it southern neither of the

fulfilled the wishes For nor opponents. that

ten

advocates
no

my

part, I have
elapse

doubt
it is

years

will

not

before

nearly remodelled The alterations.

tional debt, which

by the introduction
final liquidation

of many
of the
na

is to take place in the

course

of 1836, will, in all probability, have some in remodelling the Tariff; for how

effect
are

the

large

sums

to be employed

that will arise from

the Customs
will be the

?
answer

"

For

internal improvements,"

from
offer

every
a

the

United

States

That quarter. field for im vast

;

provements

of different kinds, I freely admit

but, taken

how
?

and Will

where
not
one

are

they

to

be
as

under much

State

have

as another? right in sharing the ameliorations It is likely that States situate nearest to the

NATIONAL

DEBT.

161

Ocean,

whose contributes in

commerce,
a

great

measure

properly speaking, to fill the Trea

sury, from which the funds must proceed, will permit their being exclusively instrumental in

States which liein the benefiting other States heart of the Continent, and which hardly know ? Suppose, even, that these what Customs mean
"

commercial of the

States do not require any portion it for improvements, public means

would, nevertheless, be an act of crying injus State for the benefit of the tice to tax one
other. To later be a
America's
was

solve this problem

source

will
to

sooner
some

or

of inquietude
statesmen.

of
evil

enlightened
not
were on

The

certainly United States

on

the anticipated, when held up as the happiest

account

country

earth,

of the

extinc

tion of their national debt in 1836. Before I take leave of this

w subject,hich

doubt in due come time will no under discussion, I will just add a few words rela
tive
to

debt. period
one

the present amount of the national This debt, which at the commenced
of the
war

of Independence,

time,

1816,

amounted
million

to

one

and at hundred thousand

and
three
cents,
VOL.

twenty-three

sixteen

hundred

and

seventy-five

has, by yearly
II.

dollars, nine payments, been so reM

162

NATIONAL

DEBT.

duced,

that it could at any time be liquidated by the Treasury, if the stockholders desired
it. According
to the report

of the Secretary 1833, the

revenue
was

of

the Treasury, from

not

of December,
in the

the Customs
less than

course

of 1832

twenty-eight

million

four hun

two hundred dred and sixty-five thousand and thirty-seven dollars, twenty-four cents, and the

payments

in reduction
same

of the

national

debt

during

the

period, seventeen

million eight

hundred

and 1st of January,

and forty thousand nine dollars, twenty-nine

1834,

three
cents.

hundred

On

the

the debt

of the United

States amounted to no more than four million hundred seven and sixty thousand and eightytwo dollars, eight cents, of which thirty-seven
thousand

eight hundred
cents,are

and

twenty-one
on

dol

lars, seventy-nine

payable
seven

demand, hundred
and

and the remainder,

and

four million thousand

two

twenty-two

hundred

sixty dollars, twenty-nine of January, In 1835. the

cents,

after the 1st

America,
are

greatest

orators

and

Statesmen

Congress.

generally elected members of This so post of honour, much

citizen, is, there courted by every American fore, seldom filledby men destitute of talents they must their ability in some show way or

COMPOSITION

OF

THE

SENATE.

163

other to attract

the notice of the people.

This

explains

singular

commercial

that, in a circumstance, States, country, like the United merchant rarely

is the only aris

the wealthy he is very tocrat, where

Congress.

On

the other

elected member of hand, we find law

the chief places in the legis yers occupying lative body, and standing foremost on the list

of statesmen.

In illustration of my

assertion,

I need only examine for the twenty-third

out

the returns

Congress.

of Senators I there find,

fewer than no of forty-eight members, thirty-nine lawyers: are the remainder three doctors, one Indian agent, one proprietor of
a

newspaper,
one

one

ex-governor
one

of

State,

one

farmer, chant.

mechanic, and In the Lower House

is much

solitary

mer

tion of lawyers

also, the propor larger than that of

any other class of citizens. The Representatives, of the Lower

are

House

elected by the people ; the Senate by the is Legislature State. A senator of each elected until he has been a member of Lower House for some time ; and none constitutionally, fillthe senatorial chair, has reached

seldom

the
can,

tillhe

the age of thirty ; but at is competent to become twenty-five a person The Senate is of the other House. member
M

164

CLAY.

composed

of

men,

distinguished

as

orators

and politicians, the pride, in fact, of America. Talents more than in this Senate consummate
have seldom
or

been

united

in

one

point, either Many

of the

in ancient
senators
are

modern
well

times.

known

in Europe, and

such

as are

Clay, Webster,
distinguished

Calhoun,
models

others, who

among

modern

orators

and statesmen. Clay is the most

rica.

popular

speaker

in Ame

His and

language seducing.

is flowing,

nervous,

elo

quent,

He

is

severe

towards

his adversary, but delivers his pointed obser vations in a tone generally playful. Without

possessing a powerful organ, his voice, never theless, fillsevery corner of the Senate Cham ber, particularly on entering into the heart of less through the the after going

subject,
is
one

important phors

Fertility in meta preliminaries. : like of his principal ornaments

the writer of Frithiof,

the selection
of them,

(Tegner) he
and
never

is happy

in

fails to fix He

the undivided
is
one

attention

of his auditory.

of those

peculiarly
ever

whose
tain
overcome

eloquence his ground

gifted individuals, enables him to main

having

victoriously, after the opinions of his hearers. again,

is
a

Mr.

Webster,

profound

and

WEBSTER

CALHOUN

1 65

eloquent
a

statesman,

who

never

meddles

with

without subject
His

having
speeches

given

it his utmost
in

attention.

abound

deep

sound reasoning*, and carry away by plausibility of purpose the auditory and of judgment. It clearness and perspicuity
and
is impossible
to

thought

listen

to

this great

orator

without sharp harmony

admiring
look,
so

him.

The
to

peculiar

and penetrating him, is in perfect of his language.

with

the character

Woe

to

the imprudent
to involve

attempt the

any

would who opponent, thing in obscurity on

! by Webster out straight road traced A glance from him is sufficient to dispel all darkness, and, if I may so say, to crush his

adversary.

Calhoun
virate. of the
was,

is the third of this mighty

trium

He

had, this session, been party

a

at the head

Nullification
sense,

in

Congress,
opponent

and
to

in every

dangerous

the

present

Government.

Altogether

unlike

the two

senators

justmentioned,

in the method

of expressing by
a

himself, he is more

distinguished
and
a

facility of comprehension,
of every

clear

development language speeches

than subject,

by florid
his

In and choice expressions. he never to care appears about part: he enters

the

introductory

upon

the merits

166.

EMINENT

AMERICAN

STATESMEN.

if time did not as question at once, permit him to lead his auditory up the usual steps to obtain a clear insight into the darkest
of the
parts

of the

subject.
three
men,
"

Besides
present

these

who

seem

to

re

Union Webster the whole Northern States, Clay and Eastern

Western,
are

for the for the

"

and Calhoun
a

for the Southern of statesmen,

there
some

also

great

number

for, others

would

against, the Administration, who shine in any country, both on account

powers,

of their rhetorical cuity and

soundness
me

great perspi of judgment. Of these,

to mention

and

my

limits permit
:

lowing

in the Senate,

only the fol Poindexter, Preston,

in the House

Clayton,

and

Forsyth

of Re

Everett, Quincy Adams, presentatives, John Tristam, Burges, Binney, and McDuffie.
A few days

before the Jackson gave

adjournmentof
held
a an

Con

gress,
room,

President
or

drawingparty,
to

rather

evening
were

no which but where

particular every These

to
me as one

invitations

issued,

to

attend.

that pleased had a right soirees had often been re

presented
on

extremely

disagreeable,

account

of

the

"

; and assembled in America," The Refugee

company usually mixed Mrs. Trollope in her book, has placed

them

THE

PRESIDENT'S

DRAWING-ROOM.

167

in

so

ludicrous been led the

light, that the

one

might the

almost levees

have
given
were

to

belief that

by

First

Magistrate

in America and

exclusively
Even the

composed

of coachmen

servants.

in Washington,

I often heard,

among

higher
the

classes, complaints of company

made
at

respecting President's peared paying

mixture

the
ap

house.
to

In spite of this,

none

disposed their

forego
to

the the

honour

respects

old

of General,

he held a "drawing-room." Neither whenever did I wish to lose the opportunity of attend ing in person, anxious to judge of the scene

for myself. On arriving at the palace, I was ushered into a large saloon filled with people some of both sexes, well dressed, others again
in

morning

costume.

Some
as

of
in

the

ladies
that

in dress, as well showed to they did riot belong

manners,

that

high
to

class

of

society circle of
great

which
a

ought
:

exclusively

form

the
a

President

there

were,

however,

many

nounced
contrast

an refinement whose of manner better ton, and this rendered a the the two clearly the greater between

defined

classes.

In the

middle

of the

saloon

stood

General the Yicesome

Jackson,

surrounded

by Van

Buren,

Presideiit,

Washington

Irving,

and

of

168

THE

PRESIDENT'S

DRAWING-ROOM.

the Secretaries

of State.

The

President
an

is an

elderly

man,

of middle and
a

size, with

expres

sive countenance,

sharp

of that

firmness

of character many

eye, indicative he has which and parti

evinced cularly
career,

upon during

so

occasions,

the

period
of which,
at New

of

his

military said, His hair from

long
are

the laurels

it may

be

he chiefly gathered is perfectly white,

forehead,
narrow

Orleans.
upward face a
manners

which

combed gives his His and

his and
ex

appearance.

tremely

condescending
from in America.
to shake

derogating
the first man obliges General ceremony him

the rank

polite, without he holds as which

custom
:

Republican
with this

hands

his visiters
part

Jackson
without

performs

of the

losing

cold or without appearing his actions for a long while, to see any particular distinctions between presented President tinued and the
themselves of
a

any of his dignity, distant. I observed

if he made

those that
as
con

; but,

to

his honour,
it said, he

Republic,
the

be

same

whole

evening

"

polite

and affable to every one, he knew personally, whom fair sex.

friendly to those particularly the

General

Jackson

became
He

President,

for the in

first time, in J829.

had.

at the election

INAUGURATION

OF

THE

PRESIDENT.

169

placed himself on already for the Presidential candidates

1825,

the

list of

Chair,

but

had

not

his return his

At
more

of votes to insure sufficient number : the honour of office then devolved on

fortunate rival, John

Quincy Adams.
had
a

the

election in 1829,
one

Jackson

ma

jority of
"

hundred
of 1833,

and again,
an

seventy-eight
two

votes

at

that

hundred
of votes
a

and of
ex

nineteen,

showing
or,

accession
same,

forty-one,
tended
has

which

is the How

more

popularity.
or

far this popularity

since

increased owing

lost ground,
to

the

last

election,
measures

the

against
by which has been
at

the
a

adoption Bank of
derangement

of

certain

the

United
in

States,
finances

the

occasioned,
election

will be

better
as

ascertained
people

the
a

of 1837,

few

entertain

doubt

that
the

the

present

will try to secure occupant Chair for the third time.

Presidential

1833, General Jackson the 4th of March, entered upon the duties of his office for the The ceremony of inauguration, second time.

On

or

would be called the corona what in Europe that the tion, is one acts of the simplest genius
of
man a

could

invent.

Early of

in

the

morning
assembled

considerable
in the

number

people

House

of Representatives,

170

INAUGURATION

OF

THE

PRESIDENT.

anxious,

like myself,
The in
no

to

witness

this
was

cere
an

mony.

arrival of the President

nounced by Van
private

particular

way.

Accompanied and

Buren,

the Vice-President,
the

his

Secretary,
the
room,

venerable

gentleman

entered
present.

almost

Both

the

by any unperceived high functionaries were

any

attired

in black, such
to

without
signs of

decorations being
them

whatever,
contrary

distinction After

the

Constitution.
foreign

followed
laced

several

ministers

in goldwore
a

costume.

One
back

in

particular

uniform,
a

the whole
mass

solid and

sun,

of gold forming a singular

of which consisted of lace, glittering in the

contrast

with
A

the

numberless

black

coats

present.

person, unacquainted its customs, who had

with

Washington
of
an

the appearance

and in

habitant
West,
crowd
seen

of

some

of the remotest
to

parts
me

of the in

happened during

stand

near

the

the ceremony. the President, and now

was

He

had

never

tried to discover

which

the Chief Magistrate.

When

the

foreign gold-covered minister, just alluded his appearance to, made in the hall, attended by several gentlemen equally well dressed, he took itfor granted hero of New that he must
be the renowned
sure

Orleans

; but, to make

of the

INAUGURATION

OF

THE

PRESIDENT.

171

fact, he turned

to

me

and

asked
men

the followingis the Presi

question dent?"
man

"

Which

of these
out

I pointed
"

the
! man,"

old

grey-headed answered he,

you

to him.
as a

By
"

God
you
of
men,

furious

tiger,

do not

know

what hero

say.

The

bravest
in
a

America's

and

favourite,

suit of black!
want

You

are

mistaken,

stranger, The speech

himself,

and

information however,

yourself." by
a

ceremony, from and

to

commenced which

General
in

Jackson,
he

he

read
suc

which
the

endeavoured

cinctly

state

situation

of the country,

its relations

with
of

Foreign
it, Chief

Powers,

"c.

At

the

conclusion
to

Justice
and

Marshall the
:

advanced oath,
"

the

tribune,

received aloud and

which
swear

the President
to

repeated
protect,

preserve,

defend,

the Constitution

of the United also

States."
took
his oath,
con

The
nearly

Vice-President
similar the
to

the

preceding.

This

cluded
was now

installation,

and

Andrew for the

Jackson
four
suc
on

lawful
years,

President,
of

ceeding
earth.

the

greatest

Republic

CHAPTER
Excuse

VI.

a foreign and then, slip-slop now If but to show I've travelled; and what 's travel, Unless it teaches one to quote and cavil ? BYRON.

ALL
times

European

travellers, who

have

in later

gratified the public with

descriptions devoted

of
a

the

United

States, have
portion

generally and

considerable
books
to

of time

space

in their

the

consideration
To

of the their would

it
a

American
manner

Constitution.
discussing
believe their likely Thus

judge

by

of

the

one subject,

be

led

to

that they
as

considered
to

duty

to give

opinions
to

the

effects which

it is

produce
not

in

another

half

century. faults
in

they have

only
even

discovered

this constitution, that

must
ensue

but
from

foretold the results

of government

the form
one

before
am

it has
a

existed

hundred

years.
of predict

not

candidate destiny

for the honour America, power

to

ing the
do

of North

still less

T believe

it in human

anticipate

AMERICAN

CONSTITUTION.

173

the future
as

effect of

so

liberal only

Constitution
a

the American, of years

tested
; but

by

few

half

scores

I venture

to affirm that,

without
ancient

being
and

perfect, it is of all constitutions, has ap the one modern, which

to

proached
tempts

nearest

the

object
made
to

in view.

At

have

also been

paint, in the

strongest colours, imaginary ening its existence.

In the United

dangers

threat

States, there

as opinion ple of the same believe that the lers, who

many peo European travel

are

least disturbance

and misunderstanding lead to a dissolution apprehension appears

the States may This of the Republic. within

to
a

me

rather unfounded,

and
of

not

unlike

that of

person
at

who

is afraid of
a

ghosts,

and

trembles

the

sight

mouse.

In the year 1832, the whole Union seemed by the voice of to its very foundation shaken

Nullification from had

a

South

Carolina

; and

many

already

made

twelvemonth,

up their minds that, within the Republic would no longer

the motto,
unum. now

be able to claim

its pride and

strength, how
was

It is well known in the South easily this misunderstanding

Ex

pluribus

quieted,
to

and

how

few the

weeks whole

were

re

quired

tranquillize

Union.

174

UNFOUNDED

APPREHENSIONS.

year
rence,

had

scarcely North when

a

elapsed

after this

occur

America
The

again

seemed
adopted

to

rest

on

volcano.

measures

by

the President States, and currency,

to

of the United against the Bank his famous experiment with the

gave

rise to

new

apprehensions
The

as

the

stability of resounded

the with

Union.

country tyranny,
from
"

whole cries of despotism,

the

; and monarchy Maine Louisiana, to

newspapers,
only
to

alluded

King

Andrew
to defend

nation

the recommended the Constitution, in imminent overthrown by

a

I.," and

danger This
was

of being
a new

species of danger
; and, at
a

usurper. for the un

fortunate

Constitution

distance, the

States already bore the appearance of That even an a monarchy. this was untimely be seen. apprehension will soon

United

Elections,

which

follow each

other

in such

rapid succession, prevent from making ment any

the Federal

Govern

and encroachments, for the durability of the like a bulwark are in it may Constitution. Changes possibly be

necessary
people
are

; for

every
too

age

requires
and

such,

if

not

obstinate,

the reject

But by experience. suggested the Constitution is not, therefore, to be thrown improvements aside,
as

not

adapted

to its purpose,

and

Re-

MISREPRESENTATIONS

OF

TRAVELLERS.

175

as principles condemned unsuited to Party-spirit cannot the present times. exist

publican

without

certain degree

of excitement

; and

it

is this which have had no

effect of the

appears
time
or

frightful to those who to follow the opportunity

so

American
from

Constitution

on

the

community,
sent

its origin down

to the pre

and it now

America is happy word, North free under the form of government which look possesses, and may with calmness
a

day.

In

forward
one

to the future.

But

what

is fitting for

hemisphere

and

one

people

suitable for other nations from me to preach doctrine up a republican in monarchical Europe ! We may envy Ame
rica its benevolent its youth,

always ; be it therefore far

is not

institutions,

its liberal

principles,
may
we

and

its strength;
to

but

never

be

induced

wish

for any

thing
Tt

else !
was
a

common

topic in the United

States
of Eu

to complain

of the misrepresentations

Captain Hall and Mrs. travellers. ropean Trollope in particular were those at who The former, tracted general animadversion.
1
was

often

told, is the
talents

more

to

blame,

as

he

possessed
a

good
was,

and

of equal to the production on the country, and impartial book besides, introduced into the higher

176

AMERICAN

HOSPITALITY.

circles, where

he received

respect.

The

every attention and latter, again, had so few ac

little known so quaintances, and was among the higher classes, that it cannot appear sin

gular

if she
in

judged the
the

whole

nation

by

indi

viduals

Western

States,

resided, and with whom she came Such was the judgment passed
on

she where in contact.

in America

these travellers. The characteristic strangers, possessed

is
never

of

an

American

is hos
at

pitality to advantages His house

expects,
not,
on

and

just pride
his
own

the

by

shut
reason,

country. to visiters ; he only

that
own

and

with

these

shall ridi
an

returning

to

their

country, have

cule the domestic opportunity

relations

they

had

hospitality.
and

of witnessing under the shield of Have not Italy, France, England,

Sweden,

many

things

which,

to

fo

reigner, appear strange, if not ridiculous ? A degree to reserve of suspicion and

insensi wards strangers has, from this cause, bly crept in among a certain class of Ameri however, be denied It cannot, cans. that in

the

United

States

there

are

many

customs

and things of a repulsive character, rejected Foreign by refined Americans themselves. Mrs. Trollope, have at critics, particularly

MRS.

TROLLOPE.

177

least done

this good,

that

they

have

called

the attention

objectionable
could not have
manners

of enlightened persons to these Chesterfield himself habits.

produced

Mrs,

of the multitude Trollope is certainly entitled to the gra of

greater effect on the ; and in this respect

titude

the

nation.

To

effect already

produced

by

justmention
playhouse boxes, to turn occupying benches,
a
a

that, whenever happens, when his back

the useful show her work, I may individual in an seated

in the

(a

the pit, or, front seat, to put his feet on the cen want of decorum severely

towards

a sured by Mrs. Trollope) general outcry of Trollope, Trollope !" is heard from every
"

part of the house, and the meaning of it is known is full of striking to all. Her work features ; but they are true and pictures, in the less civilized parts representing scenes
of the United

from the

might be inferred the title of the book,* a description of

as

States, not,

manners

Would
with

of the whole it not have been

contents
"

American
more

nation. in harmony
if she Manners

the

of the

book,

had
of

Customs called her work States ?" the Western

In
*
"

and

common

with
Manners

other

travellers in Ameis the title the book. of

N

Domestic
II.

of the Americans"

VOL.

178

DIFFERENT

CHARACTERS

OF

AMERICANS.

rica, Mrs. of taking

Trollope
what
a

has
saw

committed
at
one

the point

error

she

of the
all the

Union
others.

as

standard

for
a

judging-of
look
on

the map States will easily discover the of the United of such a judgment. Lou unreasonableness States are England as isiana and the New
casts

Whoever

unlike

as

two

different kingdoms

in Europe

of living on board steamboats and the manner is not in the Mississippi to be compared with that In England Englishman
on

board the
case

those

on

the

Hudson.
"

is totally different
same

an

is the
same
an

Tory
Kent

is the
; but

Tory

every where. in Lancashire as

is very

A
in

American North,
to

different in and
party. East,

the South
even

and

in the West the

same

if he

belongs

A
as
a

Whig

in Boston in New

has not and

the

same

ideas
as
a

Whig
in New

York,

stillless

Whig
inter

Orleans.
cause

Climate,

habits, and

ests, chiefly

this difference ; but, when how

this is the opinion

on a

case,
a

unjust
or

it is to pass

an

whole

nation

from from the of

a

observations circumstan

made
ces

at

single

point,

that

have

fallen under
a

notice

of

traveller during To obtain

a

residence

few months
of the United
some

proper

knowledge
to remain

States, it is necessary

time in

LATE

EUROPEAN

TRAVELLERS.

179 parts
of

the

country

to

visit various

the

Union
of
men

; to make

acquaintance with all classes their ideas with results ; to compare

daily occurring, and to lay aside allpartiality. Of late travellers, Stuart is the only one who has seen the necessity of pursuing this line
of conduct,
ment

in order

to

form

a
"

correct

judg

Three Years of the country ; and his in America" is a work abounding in interest ing facts, and composed after a long resi enabled him to consider every Of other de coolly and impartially. object America, it can only be scriptions of North said, that Hall's book sion, Mrs. Trollope's
tion, Hamilton's
a

dence, which

was
a

political confes
specula

mercantile

criticism on a republican form of government, and Fidler's an effusion hopes. of disappointed

My

limits do not

such circumstantial America as the

ton,

subject

to enter into permit me details of social life in deserves. Washing

however, society
more

best

is considered the centre in the country ; manners

of the
are

there

European The

than
towns

in any

other part the ton ap

capital are York, New Generally,

of the Union.

where

to that of the nearest proaches Baltimore, Philadelphia, Boston,

Charleston,

and

New

Orleans.
N

180

MANNERS

OF

THE

AMERICANS.

certain

reserve

I mistake there
to
as

not,

as

prevails in society ; and, if is found little recreation

societies. Invitations
to

in European
are on

dinner

less frequent

than

eveningparti

parties, and cular luxury

are

neither

occasion

is any

apparent.
a

At

dinner, the tables

of differ
to

provided with ent dishes, though

the

superabundance
much

not

varied, owing

Nor

difficulty of procuring balls and suppers are

culinary
more

artists.

conspicuous
generally

for luxury, with The

the collation being and

champagne.

cold,

ice-cream
manners

of the
to

Americans
of

bear English
easy

some :

resemblance
women are men.

those

the
more

the

upon

the whole speaking

as

than

the

While absent
to what

to the latter, they

appear
tention

and

if paying

very

little at

is said ; but
"

this is far from word.

being There

the is
a

case

they

listen to every
in their
an

certain

slowness of
room

conversa

tion, the

Their

consequence salutation in a

habit. acquired is, like that of the

English,

by shaking hands : at parting, they following retire without either the English The or on women, the French the custom. other They hand,
are are

pleasing, friendly, and polite.

combine

natural grace, and gifted with much in words with it a liveliness and ease

DANCING.

181

and
the
ance.

actions, which
reserve

relieve, in stiffness of

and

great measure, first acquaint

sooner
men.

stranger, therefore, becomes

with
is
a

acquainted Dancing
American
most

them

than

with

the

favourite

amusement

in
are

all

societies, where

quadrilles

al

has

only dances permitted. lately been introduced, but

the

Waltzing
the

deep-

rooted
against

of prejudice this kind

elderly ladies stilloperates is The of dance.

objection

strongest in the Eastern in the Southern, again, is often A European

dom of
manner
mi

States ; and Northern it scarcely exists. surprised at the free

which

is not

frequently
of the

prevails in society, and deceived to the real as intercourse It is not

a

meaning
on
mon,

innocent

carried
uncom

people. young among for instance, to see

constantly

young
same

unmarried

lady

with

without

attracting from

gentleman, either attention or illiberal

From

the

insinuations

the world.

their tenis placed

derest infancy, the utmost

in their capability

confidence

of governing

themselves,

and the

of mixing
assistance
or
a

in general of
an

company,

without
of
a

Argus
Few

in the shape

people married for the most are met with in society, where A young part all are and left to themselves.

guardian

Duenna.

182

INTERCOURSE

BETWEEN

THE

SEXES.

young
man,

lady without
In

may

even

travel

with

young'
sneer

exposing
a

herself to the the intercourse

on

of

scandal. the
and
sexes

word,

between

rests

entirely

mutual

confidence,

is consequently

free and
so

This

confidence

is

seldom

unrestrained. abused, that it

an

requires
stance to

the age of man of its infraction.

intercourse

to remember

in

What

is applicable

daily

may

also be
are

applied
not
a

to

Parents social life in general. to leave their daughters alone these

afraid

at

party, and

would
were

consider
not

it

want

of confidence

if they

permitted
an

to appear

the attendance

of

elderly lady.

without This, com

bined

with

natural among

inclination for domestic American

life, prevalent however,

ladies, has
from
so

had

the effect of excluding people

"

ciety almost
is the timore.
custom ;
case

all married
in Boston,

such at least and

Bal

Philadelphia,
me

Far

be it from
one
a

to

to object

this

still

cannot

help
a

times
to

that, with

view

to give

at wishing better tone

society, the retired a life.

married

would

not

lead

so

On

the

adjournment
and of Baltimore
meanwhile

of Congress,
to New

I again

left Washington,

returned

York
A

by

way

and

Philadelphia. made
between

railroad

had

been

JOURNEY

TO

NEW

YORK.

183

Amboy

and Philadelphia
between the
one

Rordentown,
to New two

on

the

York.

The

road from whole distance

at

latter cities is calculated

about
are

hundred

miles, thirty-five of which

travelled

by

the

railroad, Many daily

and

the

re

mainder the
tween

by

steamboats.
of travellers

years passing
was
are

ago,
be
com

number

Philadelphia
at

and

New
;
now

York they
At

puted fewer
the

about
two

twenty

not

than

hundred. for the

that
was

period,

settled dollars ; now required in eight Horses

in
were

price

trip

fourteen formerly

it is only three.

What
now

two

days
:

to travel
soon on

is

hours
were

it will

be

performed done in six.

at first used

the railroad, but, steam-carriages

time

the

course

of this year,

adopted,
went

which,
at

at

the

parture, hour.
I had

the rate

de of my of fifteen miles an

scarcely

arrived

in New

York,

before
of
out

the ringing

of the bells and

the swiftness the breaking

occur

engines passing of a fire in some

rence

announced

part of the city. The

so
common a

is here

of

nature,

that the

citizens themselves

express without

surprise if twentya

four
some

hours
extent

pass

conflagration Whoever
is struck

of

taking for the

place. first time

visits with

New

York

184

FIREMEN

IN

NEW

YORK.

the

frequency

of

these

fires, breaking

out,

day, in all quarters night and of the city. The noise of the engines and firemen is truly heard in the night. sad and annoying, when
A

false alarm

in the streets

given, but the uproar A is not less on that account.

is often

greater

to duty than activity and attention displayed by those who have the manage are ment of the engines I certainly have nowhere
seen.

The

before

first cry of Fire ! is hardly heard, hasten to men all these undaunted

dark so their post ; and, let the night be ever boisterous, they never fail to run to the as or
sistance

of

the

sufferers.

had

frequent

opportunities these
men

of witnessing
no

the intrepidity of

roof

was

too

high,

no

wall too

steep, for them. the

never
were

They leather

fire, with quitting

stood in the midst of hose in their hands,

or

ready The firemen

their post till the roofs to fall in.

in America
are

walls

divided
engage

into
to

companies,

the members

of which

be always in readiness for service, whenever fire happens. In return, they are a exempt from
militia

duty,

and

possess

other

small

indemnifying mea them in some advantages, for the sacrifices which daily sure they are The obliged to make. greatest unanimity

FIRE-ENGINES.

185

prevails
each

among

these

tries to surpass

companies, although the other in activity and

a

intrepidity whenever
the

fireoccurs,

and

also in

tasteful and cleanly appearance of the It is impossible to see engines. any thing lighter and more pleasing to the eye than
these engines.

They

are

kept

in the

best

looking as if new : the possible order, always brass is so shining, that one would imagine it
was

placed

there

only

yesterday

and

the
car

paintings riage
a

which often

adorn executed

the sides of the

in
a

are

style worthy

of

great artist.
some

To

behold

all these engines,

they parade great occasion, when by their attendants, the streets, accompanied
upon who,

dressed

in different uniforms,

longing

to different companies,

and be display their

and
and fire

varied colours, is a sight equally singular New York, Philadelphia, interesting.

Boston,

rank

foremost

in regard

to these

establishments.

The
mv

worst

which residence broke out in the night between the 29th and 30th of April 1833, in that part of the city bordering Hudson. nearly
one
on

of all fires, happening York, was in New one

during

Greenwich hours

Village, sufficed

near

the reduce
;
some

Twelve

to

hundred

dwellings

to ashes

186.

DESTRUCTIVE

FIRE.

accounts

even

made

them

amount

to

one

hun

The thirty. part were greater and buildings, occupied by the lower class wooden lately arrived in the of Irish, and emigrants country,
event
or
a

dred

circumstance
more

which

still

deplorable.
laid level with

the rendered Four squares,

blocks,

were

the

ground.

in a stable, fire commenced at night kept. The nearly fifty horses were where flames, fed by much combustible matter, spread

The

with

such

amazing
to
save

rapidity, that the poor More

none

dared fastened perished

approach in their

animals, forty

stalls.

than

in the midst
saw

of the fire and smoke ; only three daylight again, after the halters had been

consumed,
their

and
day,

they

were

thus released the

course

from the

confinement.

In

of

following

the

remains

of

the

ill-fated

in the same lying in a row, seen animals were Their halfthey had stood. order in which bodies were several still smoking, consumed

hours whole
most

subsequently

to

the fire, and

a

filled the
of the

neighbourhood with For disgusting kind.

round

stench
a

considerable

distance hold and

naked

the

scene

of desolation, house
sort
was were

furniture
on

of every

piled
seen

the

smoking with

mothers

ruins hungry

up ; half-

children

in their

FANATICISM.

187

arms.

Misery,
the

formed

and poverty, principal features The

were

wretchedness, of this heart

rendingthese
least

picture.

precedingnot
now

individuals
richer

than

they

evening, wealthy, but at Yesterday are.

they

possessed they
are

day they

chairs, table, and a bed ; to Yesterday, home. a without

of the bitterness perhaps, of life ; to-day they regret even and sorrows the independence and happiness of yesterday.

complained,

Ask

that

pale

and
man,

agitated that

woman,

that father,

hoary-headed their
ideas

care-worn

of the

quired
will

of life:
:
"

answer

they have ac experience with tears in their eyes they is no There that misfortune
been

might

not

have

greater."
a

Fanaticism
not

stillreigns to

certain

extent,

the people in the Western only among States, but also among a portion of the inha Let bitants settled on the Atlantic Ocean.
not

my

meaning
to speak

be misconstrued against

; I do

not

presume

ciples of any

allude my

to

particular few facts which

in the

the religious prin sect ; I only intend to

during
to

residence
to

occurred country, leaving

name

my
to

readers

apply

what

they please

the spirit which they bespeak. Saturday 1. One afternoon,

was

sitting

188

FANATICISM.

with lower

few

friends
an

near

floor of

hotel in New about

window York.
years

on

the well-

A
of

dressed

female,

thirty

a black veil and carrying- a wearing before our her hand, window, stopped from the street. began to harangue us

age, Bible in and

"

To

the city has

"

come

prophet

!" exclaimed

she.

He

is the only Christian

true

who

has

the

Gospel,
of the

deemer
this

announced Having world."

as

preached by the Re concluded

was

piece

of intelligence, which

rather she

unexpected

declaimed
of her
to
sermon

gentlemen for nearly an hour.

was

to

the

present, The

tendency

to praise
was

prove

that by

she

the prophet, and herself inspired, and

Being
to

commanded
claim
on

the who

Supreme
this
new

pro
was. mean

earth hundred

prophet
in

Several

time, collected

had, people her, and round

to

the

listened, with

peculiar by

attention,

this female

concluded
to-morrow.

she Lose
anew

every syllable uttered I invite you all," fanatic. to hear him at last, preach
"

"

not

the opportunity.

You

of his in agency to a respect struction !" This female belonged labouring by no means able family, and was under mental alienation, as might be reasona

will be

born

by the

bly

supposed.

She

was

an

extremely

well-

FANATICISM.

189

informed

woman,

and
acuteness

distinguished

by

the

brilliancy
on

and

of her observations

religion excepted. general subjects, dealers in dry 2. One of the most eminent York, was always goods, in the city of New
in the habit, whenever

he gave
purposes,

checks
to word

on

the
:

Bank
"

for benevolent the order

same

them

To

the

In his books of the Lord." individual kept a regular account the

sums

current

with

Lord,

in

debited

for all

paid

He which for any good

was

and

charitable purpose. 3. On the breaking

1832, General

Jackson

in up of Congress, left "7ashington in the

to

beginning
tion in the

of August, country,
a

take
to

little recrea
a

and

pass

few quiet

months,
was

after

he

propagated had travelled

A rumour session. stormy this excursion, that, during

a

few

miles

on

Sunday,

instead of keeping that day holy by attending The press, in all parts of the divine service. country,
profane
a

was

loud

in its condemnation of the sabbath

was

of
some

so

violation
even
an

; in

congregations, looked upon as indignation

so

already incorrigible atheist. Public

ran,

the President

at the circumstance

at length,
were

high, that the friends of the President

actually obliged

to refute, in the newspapers,

190

FANATICISM.

the

correctness

of the assertion,

and
so

declare
far from
at not

to the

nation,

that
on

the President, the

as

having* tended
continue

travelled divine his

day

in

question,
and

service

usual,

did
day.

journey

till the following

CHAPTER

VII.

Tf from society we learn to live, 'Tis solitude should teach us how to die It hath no flatterers; vanity can give No hollow aid; alone, man with his God

must

strive. BYRON.

AMERICAN penitentiary
moment,

prisons,
system,

regulated
attract, at

upon

the

new

the

present The and

un

general of humanity
on justice,

attention

in Europe.

friend with

actually visiting

shudders, gloomy,

the

healthy,

and, in

our

enlightened where
are

times, really
on our

disgraceful
side of the ing
sents

dungeons,
Atlantic

criminals

confined.
of misery,

On
what

enter

these

receptacles the

pre
con

itself to old
men

eye ? and

Accused

and

demned,
ther

in the

same

toge young, all mixed is heard of Nothing place.

continual infractions

but

frequent

desertions,

of discipline, cruel punishments,

and

dreadful
"

mortality.
is the

Con template

expression

these prisoners what Revenge, of their looks ?

After such
a

nothing

but

revenge.

sight,

192

AMERICAN

PRISONS.

may

not

one

ask,

the

purpose?" No ! answer,
The

these prisons Without hesitation,

"

Do

answer

I shall

Americans
of
new a

were

the first who

reform.

thought

seriously
trials,
a

prison

By

repeated

system

has

been

established,

and will still fur shown, ther display, important results ; which, more it at first encountered over, although consi

which

has

already

derable

on objections

the part of the advocates

now

of the old prison-discipline,

spreads

with

extraordinary Prisons have

the Union. rapidity all over hitherto been only places for the and
now, cure

infliction of torture,
mission of crimes
"

schools

for the

com

they

are

converted
\vho
are

into hospitals

for the A

of those
not

morally

sick.

prisoner

only atones

for

his offence ; his moral

ment
are

reform time
as

and

improve

at the

same

necessary

for him the

;

to be,

It is not effected. heretofore, a bur the

den

to

State, during
nor,

detention branded

after infamy
so

period of his his liberation, is he

ever. as

with

for long

The

State
of

has

only

lost him

the

period

punishment having as

lasts ; he is then only considered

infirmity. under moral he has recovered his former vigour and When health, he enters as a new the scene upon

laboured

AMERICAN

PRISONS.

193

man,

member

who

may

still be

useful to

society. In America,
systems burn

there
are

that

system, as this basis : work

present two new One is the Au acted upon. it is called, which rests upon
are

at

together

in the day-time

in

This profound silence, and solitude at night. plan is followed at the new prisons at Singin the Wethersfield, the former sing and State of New York, on the banks of the Hud son, the latter in Connecticut. Massachusetts,

Maryland,
Vermont,

Tennessee, have

Kentucky,

Maine,

and

upon the same is that which delphia, and which has for its basis The night and day, with labour.
New

also regulated their prisons plan. The other system, again, of the Phila goes by the name
:

solitude, State of has

yet the only one which followed the example of Pennsylvania.

as

Jersey

is

excessive tender to prisoners, so ness also is cruelty, when The is in them. exercised towards medium
as an

As

detrimental

is

this,

as

in many
; and,

other if this

cases, course,

what
as

should

be

adopted

been found prisons, has ever Penitentiary tainly is in the new

regards available, it cer

verity is sometimes border on tyranny,

VOL.
n.

Se system. practised, but it does not

or

aim

at compelling
o

the

194

THE

PENITENTIARY

SYSTEM.

prisoner

to lead

lifeunbecoming

man,

still

less at debasing
creatures

him

in the eyes of his fellow-

; its sole

is object to

form, which
station

gradually

bring about a re raises the fallen to that

in society from

which

he sank

at

the

of the commission this great benefit is more period by the Penitentiary hitherto attempted, The
that
most

of the crime.

That

system I consider proof

fully accomplished than by any other beyond

is the
sent
a

doubt.

conclusive

statement

the number
as

of persons

back

to the

old prisons,
criminals
one

compared
was

to that of condemned

altogether,

in the proportion
new

of

to

six, whereas,
was as one

in the
to

prisons, I
am,

the

average
ever,

twenty.
a

how

not

of opinion imbibed

that

man,

infancy

has

questionable
a

from who habits and of vice, has

"

principles ; who,

during

course

indulgence and, allowed them unrestrained has been so complete in a word, a slave to their influence, that his character has received
a

deep

impression

from
an

them

; I do
can

not

be

lieve,I say, that such

individual
are

be

com

pletely reformed. tend that such

a

There

people

who

pre

is not only practica change ble, but has actually been effected : be this as it may,

if a prisoner,
worse

on

recovering

his liberty,
the

is not morally

than when

he entered

THE

PENITENTIARY

SYSTEM.

195
case

house old

of detention, which

was

the

in the

least has been at somethingAs long, therefore, as no system has gained. been found that produces, if I may be per

prisons,

mitted

the expression,

criminals, that system the best which does not destroy them. But how
can

regeneration of the ought to be considered

a

plished ? changed,

The
and

be accom this regeneration habits of the prisoner must

a

be

direction given to his thoughts and ideas. Solitude is in this respect highly essential. The isolated situation of
new

the prisoner prevents him from injuring others, him, if not better, at least not and makes
worse.

He

I admit; for whom

to
us.

is severely punished for his crime, but he is treated as a fellow-creature,

we

feel, and
was

He
;

welfare is dear whose indolent, and knew not how

to work

have him,

solitude has now to labour, recourse

his

compelled him is given which

from

to
to

and

prevent habit makes

to

dying

inactivity,

it,at last, indispensable.

nor

He
more

could neither read

write, and

had

no

idea of religion than the slave in the West Indies. The Bible is now a valuable conso lation to him. He disliked quiet and order
"

habit, become

with exactness

mechanical, makes the rules laid down

him

follow
He

for him.
o

196.

AUBURN

PRISON.

itself: scoffed at virtue, and threatened Heaven his long, not corporeal but mental, sufferings inspired him soon with a dread of crime. He they
not

has
are

ever

defied the laws

than he.

he

now

finds that
is, perhaps,

stronger
man

He
is

the

whose

honour

more

than

life ; but
and, with
a

he thus deep What

habits, prison the

from

acquired impressed, he
respect
more

has

sacred honourable
leaves laws the of

for the
can

country.
a

be

expected

prison ?

Auburn
new

prison, the first which followed the founded in the year 1816 ; was system,
it was

and

in 1821

sufficiently ready

to receive

Attempts eighty prisoners, in different rooms. the criminals were made, at first,to improve labour ; by uninterrupted solitude, without but the result
soon

ducing death. deepest

on

reform,

that, without pro showed it brought insanity or on

Those
state

did not sink into the who of depression, often bordering

of mind,
were

aberration

gradually

under

mined
them
ment

by
to
was,
a

slow

disease, which grave.

premature

consigned The experi abandoned,

therefore, immediately

and, in its stead, a modification adopted, which has since been

success.

of the system followed with

Auburn

prison

was,

however,

found

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

197

too

small

for such

State
must
an

as

New
a

York,
separate

where
room.

each

prisoner Lynds, time

now

have

Elam
for
a

racter,

at

enterprising cha the head of the Auburn the building

upon of

establishment,

undertook
prison, The

Sing-sing-, the
system,
it
was

largest

the

new

in America.

manner

in which
to

built is singular,

and

deserves

be

recorded.
Accompanied Auburn, by
one

hundred brought
a

criminals

from

whom

he had

to obedience,

he traversed
three hundred

the country,
miles, and

distance
on

of about the banks There

arrived

of the Hudson,
were own
no

where
or
arms

he encamped.
to

walls

detain

them

his

strength
alone

them

obedience. useful handicraft

penters

and his authority over fear and inspired commanded He employed in some every one
of mind
business
: masons

and

car

sprung elapsed

up in rapid succession. before they

were

Several
to erect
even

years

able

and
this

complete

their

own

prison ; and,

to
are

day,

the

unfortunate

delinquents

occupied ready,

in constructing

There

will exclude is something

walls, which, when from them the world. in the heart-rending so

to visit Singsing

sight, that
without

it is impossible

deep

emotion

; and

yet

that

system

198

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

must

surely the

be

admired

which

only
one

requires, thousand

for

superintendence
a

of

collective guard of thirteen indi The of viduals. strength perfection and in this institution," say the Commissioners criminals,
"

their report of Singsing December, of New

prison

of the 16th of

1831, addressed

to the Legislature to be generally

York,
Here

"do
are

not

appear

known.
ers,

from
"

about one thousand offend the refuse the lowest delinquent

"

desperado, hardened to the most of society in blood, are, whose hands perhaps, imbrued

only been a series of Of all these, there abominations and crimes. is not one confined under lock and key during by walls, or the hours of labour, or surrounded and whose
past

life has

fettered and handcuffed ; they are in various directions, and some

all scattered
at

work

the prison. quarter of a mile from keeps them in this state of obedience?
teen
overseers

What
Thir
at
one
are

(For there
obedience employed
manner,

are

no

more

time).

No,

only
to

by the force of discipline

they brought

their superiors, and

to and submission in the most useful

advantageous propelled by the

When the

and

moved

as

if

most

perfect mechanism."

I visited this interesting prison for first time, I certainly cannot deny that

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

199 I may

it appeared

to

me

an

absurdity,

add
awe

folly, to attempt
one

to

manage by

and
means

keep

in

thousand

offenders
:

of only thir

teen

individuals

and, when

into the midst

of them,

and

I afterwards went found myself sur

rounded
of every I could
tion

by thieves, assassins, and criminals freely about kind, who me, walked
not

putting this ques to the superintendent, What security

refrain
"

from

is

there
en

that
on

all these

prisoners

will not them,

suc
"

rise

masse

their keepers,
"

murder and the he, As

no

and
cess

escape?" of the
on
can

Our

security,
answered

system,"
the be may

rest

entirely
as

that

silence prevailing. kept up, there is harbour

is not
as

long

danger.
plans
as

prisoner

horrid

able to communicate his to other criminals, them prove projects he attempt Should abortive. alone to have
recourse

he pleases ; if he

to

violence,

he

is seldom

or

ever

supported
know

by other prisoners, for they do not and dread, besides, what is his object, punishment, which offence in the prison. the
are

immediate every
with
vided

always follows It is, therefore,

overseers,

little difficulty that

pro

with

loaded

guns, and

able to frustrate
But
severe

plans tempts

of escape

murder.
; the

these

at

seldom

occur

discipline

200

PRISON

AT

SINGS1NG.

constantly

preserved

by

steady

labour,

and

invariable

attention and vigilance on of the keepers, convinces them every

more

the part
moment,

and

more,

of the

necessity The

of blindly prisoner

obeying has
not

the
been

rules laid down. here

long
soon

before

he

this necessity ; he required

overseers,
severe."

conforms gains

perceives is to what
in his

of him, knowing

and

confidence
are

that they

though just,

It is not

lofty walls, iron

are

chains, which in awe. Do

criminals,

we

gates, or heavy necessary to keep prisoners frequently hear that not

with

loaded
or

chains,

scale

walls,

break
other walls, irons,

gates,
ways the ?

effect their escape

in various

In

reliance

on

the

height
weight

of of

strength

of gates,

the

overseers

gradually wrapped
up

and

become

relax in their duty, in imaginary secu have leisure to ob

rity ; and
serve

prisoners,

who

every

thing,

the guardians

easily perceive that place all their trust in the sup

and

posed
them,

strength

of the

prison,

cease

to dread

and this. Such

on

the

to show seize the first opportunity is not the case in a prison arranged plan of that of Singsing ; it is just

the
move

reverse.

The the

prisoner

is at in the

liberty to
open air,

about

whole

day

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

201

works

without the

being

fettered, breathes
air, is surrounded

only by
no

at night

prison

walls,

and
of by
on

thinks
shown pression

still cannot escape, nay, hardly it. Undoubtedly, the confidence the
overseers

must

him,
a

and

lead

im an make to the belief that

they

possess

superiority

the aid of material in the countenances I could read

of the prisoners
an

which needs not I thought also strength.

of
most

signation offspring

of perfect re is the that resignation which ; not of tyranny, but that which results expression

from the prospect, however

distant, of

better

condition. The prison

of the Hudson,

at Singsing

stands

on

the banks

surrounded guns,

by hills. On these,
are

sentries, with loaded

situation

placed in such the whole

are

that they
on

can

survey

of the

ground

and

which On at work.

the prisoners
approaching

scattered, these hills, and

seeing

the workmen,

ting

stone,

building,
that it is
on a

partly it is scarcely
prison.

in cut partly employed assisting in finishing the

The

possible to conceive difficulty is increased people,

mixing

among

these

perceiving
the
con

their general
tinual

assiduity, and among

hearing
the

hammering
You
would

industrious
that it is a

beings.

rather suppose

202

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

or some public workshop, charitable institu Each individual appears to attend to tion.

his particular ed by
the

business, without and

is
seems

being remind
to

overseers,

pay

no

attention

to

around

him.

what It was

passing

immediately
diffi of
one

with

the greatest

culty that I could attract the attention only for a moment of them ; but this was he appeared indifferent and as next
cerned remained
uttered
as ever.

; the
uncon

During

the few hours hear

a

that

there, I did not

single word

by any of the prisoners, nor could my discover the slightest whisper ; neverthe ear less, I do not think it is in human to power
prevent between
a

word

them.

and then This, however,

now

from

passing happens but

are

rarely ; and unconnected,

make be
a

the few words that

regular

exchanged

so

the other prisoners

sentence.

cannot

out

It must

indeed
a man

singular and

horrible situation for

with other people, to be constantly with them, to work by their side, to be aware that they are all partners in misfortune, and
to associate

It is any thing about them. yet not to know a kind of society where see the members each other, but have not the slightest intercourse. There
all, and

is

link which
are

seems

to connect

them

yet they

not

united ; their bodies

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

203

approximate, Can there be

but
a a

their
or

minds
severer

are

divided.

greater
criminal taught The

punishment?

Whenever
is immediately

enters
a

this prison, he trade, if he has not of the the

yet learned
prisoners
at

one.

chief occupation
is cutting

Singsing

marble,
a

whole
white with I
was

neighbourhood

being full of

species of

marble, that may be broken and worked littledifficulty,and at a trifling ex pence.

shown
Doric

several specimens

of Corinthian

and

pillars, pedestals, ",c., made with

on
an

by the reflected

prisoners, great

accuracy
as

which
well

credit

the master,

as

on

the

pupils.

Besides

article required
there, such
as

in marble, every the works in the prison is manufactured

clothes, shoes, implements,

are

",c.,
sold

of other things, which with a number for the benefit of the institution. The happens prisoner
to
was

is also utterly

taught

to

be

ignorant.

read, if he A Sunday

established there a few years ago, and has indeed had the happiest and most Bible, hitherto The success. extraordinary
and lying the unknown, shelf in the cell unopened

School

whole

year

on

the

perused with eagerness tary hour no longer inspires

since

and unread, is now and delight. The soli

a

feeling of horror,

the prisoners

are

able to read.

The

Ian-

204

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

guage hopes

of the
;

Bible
a

consoles

and

gives them
agitated
a

it calms

conscience the
now

by

solitude,
ent

and

gives to They

thoughts begin
to

differ
see

direction.

the

advantage

and

of industry, temperance, and order; acquire at last, by the practice of these

a

virtues, when
vent
once
a

taste

for
recover

their

they

exercise, which, their liberty, will pre

errors.

recurrence

of former that

It has

been
rance,

often

insinuated

industry,

tempe

and

contrary

an order, forced upon to his inclination, under

individual
the
a

threat lasting

of corporal

and
seems

punishment, pleasing impression

to be generally

cannot
"

leave

conclusion

which
those well Auburn
at
as

who
as

prefer the those

as

prevailing among Pennsylvania system, the

modified

who

advocate

system,

Singsing,

practised at Wethersfield least, the conviction at

does
a

; but

appears produce
of the

established that flogging the baneful effect of making

prisoner, himself
who
sees

not

hypocrite

the and

obedient

necessity of showing improved, if he even

to his former

entertains

the idea of returning

at the expiration

propensities, punishment. the

most

of the period inspector

of
on

The

experienced

spot, Lynds,

affirms that flogging

at the
same

is the
most

humane,

and

time

the

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

205 It is, therefore,

effective, of all corrections.

frequently
offence

used

at

this

prison ;

the

least

is followed
an

by

immediate

flogging*.
on

It produces

instantaneous

submission

the part of the prisoner, and

his work

does not interrupt

or

health

for many but still I

moments,
am

injure his
that its for keeping

not

convinced

application

is absolutely

necessary

the prisoners in order. In the prison in Philadelphia,

no

flogging

is

allowed. be may
kept in
a

In refutation

of this hypothesis, when

prisoners

it
are

observed
constant

that,

solitude,

such sary. where

mode This

of punishment I admit: but,

night becomes
at

and
unneces

day,

Wethersfield,

prisoners have

sing, they managed

tion

as together at Singwork for several years pas*t been

may

flogging. without be started, namely,

only two

Another that
a

objec
prison,
may

containing
be conducted

hundred

prisoners,
recourse an

without

having

to this

mode
ment

of correction

; but

that, at
one

establish de

like Singsing,

with

thousand

linquents, order and obedience could not pos sibly be maintained without flogging. This observation leads me to the conviction that than
a

prison, which
overseer

contains

more

prisoners
can

the

and

clergyman

have

206

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

opportunities
character, power
to

to ascertain their of examining and where, because it is out of their

the disposition study thoughts, scrutinize his inmost

of

each,
to

to

and

give

sufficient to eradicate salutary admonitions his failings a prison where corporal punish are ments offences resorted to for the same
"

which
time

would

not

have

been

committed,

had

to devote these functionaries allowed a few hours to each such a prison, I contend, does not answer A mechanical the purpose. is, surely, not the only thing re obedience
"

quired

of the prisoner: of the

new

his reformation

is the

principal aim
an

system

; and

how
at

can

overseer

of such

an

establishment,
of
a

the fully

period

of the
that

release he has

prisoner,

be

convinced
time

not,

during

the whole
a

the part of of his detention, played hypocrite, if he has not known him thoroughly,

kept him

alive his few

a nor

good

against If neither he

return

qualities, and warned iniquities ? to former

attend in my opinion,
prisons.

has leisure to the clergyman duty, the institution, to this important

is not

better than

the

former

That

part

of the

building

at

Singsing

ap

propriated extensive,

to the

and

runs

prisoners is very large and in a parallel line with the

PRISON

AT

SINGLING.

207

river.
stream,

In

the
is

space
a

between

it and

the

there

large

work stone-masonry ing-house, properly high, with

two
one on

yard, where all the is performed. The dwell

so

hundred thousand

called, is five stories cells in each story, or

rooms,

altogether
of which house.

five hundred

are

each

The

rooms

side of the length of the built one are the above

open galleries, suf
to walk

other, with

doors

towards
one

ficiently large for and terminating

person
a

at

staircase.
an
one,

about, All this,

again,
ten

is surrounded

by

outer

wall, which, the

roof ap
a

feet from

the inner

supports

covering

peared glass the

black
outer

To the whole. immense like an

me,

the building
over

box,

frame

had

been
rooms

placed.
are

The
iron,

which doors

of

prisoners'
; opposite

of
are

painted
in the
air
are

to

them which

wall, through

windows light and

admitted, portunity
lamps
are

without giving the prisoner an op Iron stoves of looking out. and placed in the galleries, so that light
are never

and
seers

heat
are

The over equally distributed. to leave their post permitted

as

in these galleries, in

long

as wear

the prisoners
on

are

their

rooms. as

They they
are

their
are

feet

mocassins,

called, which
so

shoes
are

made

of woollen

yarn,

that their steps

208

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

never

heard.
a

The

galleries
that

are

also built in
noise,
even

such

manner,

the

least

whispering,
seers.

in the cells is heard

by the

over

It is impossible
awful

to imagine
a

than

to spend

any thing more few hours here during

not

the night.
of the

There

reigned

only the silence

the mind making afraid, if I so ; it was may say, of its own shadow also a distressing, a heart-rending feeling, to fancy
grave,
one's

self in the midst

of

thousand
if inclosed black

fellowin
an

creatures,

and

yet

seem

as

Egyptian with ing

threw
a

catacomb.

The

iron doors, build lamps

their small bars, gave the whole dismal a the ; and appearance
a

dim

light along

the galleries, where and,

now a or

solitary being mysteriously advanced, in his progress, appeared a giant, now dwarf, in proportion he approached as moved
a

to

away

from

the lamps.

Not

word,

not

sound,

guish. been dancing

the

of any kind, could the 1 believe that if even a

ear

distin
had

gnat
a

round

the

head

of

criminal, have de

buzz

occasioned

by

it would four

lighted

the

remaining

hundred

and

ninety-nine

Each
and

in their solitude. feet long, cell is seven

seven

feet high,

three

and

half

wide,

consequently

PRISON

AT

STNGSING.

209

sufficiently large for a person who only spends the night in it. The walls are so thick, that is impossible. communication with neighbours
introduced and light are Each room grating in the door. tilator, which Heat through has
a

the
ven

passes through the ceiling, and keeps up a free circulation of air. The bed kept in a state of perfect bedding are and
cleanliness

and
on

turned belongs
in
more

up

order, and, in the day A one side of the wall.

cell. No
one

time, Bible

to each

than

prisoner is employed particular kind of work of

whoever
never

has

the

charge

the

kitchen

is

employed
case rooms.

in any

thing else.

The

same or

is the clean

wash with those who Others are occupied

weavers,
are

linen,
as

tailors,

coopers,

stone-masons,

all these trades, different places, workshops, under

however,
some

smiths ; carried on in and

in

under

sheds, others

the superintendence

of in

with the work, and spectors, well acquainted whose business it is to instruct those who are ignorant. Care is taken to place the prisoners possible, in such a situation that one so way, all their faces shall be turned
as as

far

any signs may not meet, nor be given. dark Behind are the workshops hardly perceptible and walks, with narrow
VOL.
II.

that their eyes

210

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

apertures the prison

see

in the wall
can

here

the

inspector

of

through

walk without being heard, and the holes if prisoners and keepers This
overseer

do

their duty.

system

of espionage

on

the part of the portance sible eye

:

is of the utmost

im

the prisoner is aware his actions watches

that
every

an

invi

minute,

that offences, which may possibly escape be perceived the vigilance of the keeper, may

and

never yet left a fault who Even the keeper is sensible of unpunished. this secret vigilance, and dreads it; occupying

by

the

overseer,

confidential situa he may tion, by the favour of the overseer, also be deprived of it, if the least neglect of duty is discovered.
I amused

as

he does

lucrative

and

myself

for

some

time

in walking-

through

corridors, and examining No the different workshops. could I where discover a single transgression : smiths were hammering with activity, coopers incessantly, carpenters sawing and planing with an assiduity that did them credit; shoe
working

these dark

bending over their lasts, sewing makers with their long black twine, and on the tables were dozen a tailors, a la Turque, seated all as
silent, unmusical, world,
as

if they

the careless about and had been a set of automata

PRISON

AT

SINGSING.

211

justturned
Malzel.

out

Who

of the hands of the ingenious heard of a tailor's board, ever

filled with
ment

workmen,

without

the accompani
anec

of singing*, laughing, dotes ?

In most

joking,and

prisons, where offend of the European kept at work, they receive a portion of ers are This is not the the produce of their labour.
case

in American

prisons, according

to the

new

system,
more,

with

the exception

a certain where day, after finishing which

of that at Balti task is set for each

liberty to work plan has not been

upon

the prisoner is at for himself. At Singsing this

adopted. They

here

act

the principle that a prisoner to the State and to society a larger

is indebted
sum,

from

the expence
of

necessarily

arising incurred for the

maintenance

Courts

of

Justice,

prisons,
possibly therefore

and police establishments, than can be derived from his labour. He works

the slightest remuneration, without and without hopes of saving, by dint of in dustry and indefatigable exertions, a small
which might be serviceable at the period A law of the State of New of his release. York an overseer of a prison to give
sum

enjoins
prisoner,

every
sum

on

not exceeding

his liberty, a recovering three dollars, and a suit of

p

212

LABOUR

OF

PRISONERS.

ten. than not cost more clothes, which must At the prison in Philadelphia, four dollars five are at that of Boston, given him, and dollars, with clothes worth about twenty.

the labour of prisoners in general finement in America is disposed of by

tract

In

con con
a

beforehand,
price
case

the

contractor

paying

certain

for the
at
cases

labour

of every

day.

Such
point
too

is the

Singsing.
is, to guard
of the

The

principal

in such

against

the

great

influence

contractor

in the

inspection his frequent of the prison, from He is, however, forbidden to hold any work. other conversation with the prisoners but such
as

has reference

to the

progress

of the

work,

and

that only in the presence

of the

overseer.

But, notwithstanding has been found that

tractor

all these precautions,

it

the presence
produced

of

con

in the

prison

certain

incon

veniences. made
to to

At

Auburn,

attempts

have
from
was,

been
access more

preclude

the contractor
; the

the prisoners order, but, on

on objections

the

consequence other hand,

was

numberless

his part ; he

the work, and started The ties. restriction was with doned,
to

satisfied continual difficul at length aban again the

never

and

the contractor

was

inspect

the

progress

of

allowed At work.

LABOUR

OF

PRISONERS.

213

Wethersfield, this principle is entirely

and

rejected,
pro

the

administration

there

not

only

of the prisoners, vides for the maintenance but also attends to the disposal of their work. This is, undoubtedly, the best method, and worthy labour of imitation, although it increases the

of the superintendent. for the The rate paid for one day is the same winter, autumn, whole year. Neither summer, nor wealth, have the spring, neither birth nor and
trouble

slightest influence and

rouses

"

irrevocable

course.

all goes on in a regular bell At daybreak, a

the prisoners

from

sleep.

prayer
so

is

read aloud by a clergyman, be distinctly heard by that he can

then

placed side of

one

the house

at

time

; after
on a

which
given

the prisonsignal, the in a line, in

to the

doors

are

opened, march they

are

and,
out

prisoners

and

form

which
where

order

proceed
to

down
wash

they

obliged

yard, their hands

and faces, and deliver such utensils as they have on day to their the preceding taken Their is very singular, their cells. march bodies being but, never together, close
theless, they
can

have

no

communication

with

each

other.

All the
one

the steps of

so motions are uniform, follow so closely upon those

of the other, and

the bending

attitude

of the

214

PRISON

DISCIPLINE.

bodies

alike, that one lieve that the whole line is moved

so

is

much

is led to be

by

single
are

string, pulled by the him, and fixed upon

overseer. never

All eyes turned from

that

direction, until the procession

reaches

the place

appointed

for work.

When
ers

the breakfast

hour

arrives, the prison in profound silence,

same

again
march

leave their work

and
close

back
and
as

to

their
the
on

cells in the
same

ranks

with

mechanical
return,

appearance

before ; where

their every

they

pass

the

kitchen,

one

takes

his

breakfast-plate,
a

without,

however, of the line.

stopping
As
soon
are

moment

or

falling out entered

as

they have

their cells, the doors

fastened,
a

while, in perfect solitude, they

take

simple

and wholesome

yet sufficient repast*.

again, all prisoners take their meals together in a large refectory, provided Holding up with several tables and benches. finger is a sign that the party making it a
wants
more

In

Auburn,

food

in spite of this precaution,

to

which been
as

contributes

maintain is not

silence, it has
near
so

found
the
one

that this plan adopted

at

good

Singsing

prisons
*

have,

therefore, followed

all other the latter.

prisoner is allowed

one

Tn the latest built American prisons, each of meat, besides other food. pound

PRISON

DISCIPLINE.

215

After breakfast, work is resumed, and not sus tilldinner time. The whole afternoon pended
is also devoted
to

the prosecution

of labour,

which

concludes

at dusk.

in the whole observed it is only after having hands again washed and face, and listened to the prayers repeated

Discipline is strictly course of the day ; and

by the clergyman, prisoner lies down

as

in the morning, that the in his dismal cell, and is

has shown Experience toil. relieved from ex that it is at this period of the day, when hausted with fatigue and left to himself, his
mind is best

disposed Gospel.

to

be

moved

by

the

truths

of

the

The
new

indefatigable
prisons
avail
to

clergymen
themselves

attached

to the

of this favourable

disposition
At

produce
as are

the deepest
as

impression.

Singsing,

well
seen

at Auburn

at

dusk

and Wethersfield, they going from cell to cell, and behind

calm

every

where

leaving

and

com

posed minds. I was anxious

to

hear

the result

of their

inquiries respecting
criminals,
causes

the character

of various

and

which

spoke with several as to the had particularly led to the com

From

mission

of crimes.

the

answers

re or

ceived,

I should incitements were

infer, that principally

the

motives

the

four

fol-

216

CAUSES

OF

CRIMES.

lowing-

ignorance,

of parents, fluence of says

neglect, and indifference drunkenness, and, finally, the in

"

women.

It is really lamentable,"
at Singsing

the clergyman
"

in his report of drunken occasions

a

for 1831,
ness

to

see

how
occur,

many
upon
to, to

cases

constantly

purposely daring

resorted

many instil

greater

and dismiss reflection, in the commis The resident clergyman sion of a foul deed." at Auburn says again, in a report for the year
1833:

"The

number
moment,

detained

in

this

prison, at the present

is six hundred

and

eighty-three,
or

of which,

five hundred

and

eight,
as

nearly

three fourths, may

;
one

be classed

addicted

to drunkenness
more

hundred

and

fifty-sixare
to

temperate,

though

stillgiven

liquor, and

only nineteen

sober."
an

But, if drunkenness has

not

and abstemious has so baneful

a

influence, what woman?

a

dissolute enough,

and
there

abandoned is hardly
life
a

Singular
in the
not

criminal,
woman

course

of whose
some
a

bad

has

played of

con

spicuous and

part, either in the shape

faithless
him
to

unworthy
crime,

wife, who
sometimes

has induced

commit

to satisfy extravagant

merely with a view inclinations ; or, in that

who, the by
examples

of of

an

unnatural

mother, planted

levity, has

first seeds

of

PRISON

AT

WETHERSFIELD.

217

children. young This, I am to confess, is the general compelled have result of the experience of those who studied the heart of a culprit, and is therefore
to subject

crime

in the

bosom

of her

very

little doubt.
at

The already
contains

prison

Wethersfield,
is the smallest

as

have

observed,

of all, and prisoners. in the as

al
not

The

hundred two only about discipline here is not so severe

corporal

others, lowed.
more

being not punishments Nevertheless, delinquencies are there than

in places

frequent of

practice
was

flogging
a

is adopted.

where the The plan

made yearly

upon

very

economical has of
so

the

maintenance

scale, and decreased in the

no

amount,

that, instead
sums,

costing
by

State
means

large

it yields

revenue,

inconsiderable, prisoners
of three
to
sum

when

the

limited

number
course

of

is taken

into account.
a

In the

years

and

half, that is, from

to

1828

1831, it produced than

seventeen

the

State
one

no

less

thousand

hundred
after

and thirty-nine dollars, fifty-three cents, deducting all expences.

The contained,
of 1833,

prison when rather

at

Auburn

is

larger,
summer

and

I visited it, in the

more

than of whom

seven
were

hundred
women.

prisoners,

twenty-five

218

PRISON

AT

AUBURN.

walls surround heard plaints were resident clergyman

among

High

this prison.
on

Many

com

this account,
me, or a

informed
were

and the that diseases

ten

the
as

women

eight
men

times

as

frequent by which

among

the

circumstance

to prove the in endeavoured in jurious effect of every kind of confinement the day-time, the former being kept constantly in doors, whereas the men work all day in the

he

open
sex,

air. This I
am

treatment unjust

of the weaker

in hopes, of To
a

will
new
a

soon

be remedied,

by

the
women.

erection
"

be
the
"

prison, exclusively for in this male prisoner clergyman

in his
a

prison,"

says

same

re

is tolerable ; but to be port for 1833, time is worse than prisoner for some

female

death."
credible
for

This and

expression,

emanating
man

from

experienced

on

the spot, speaks

itself.

was

so

far favoured

as

to

be

into this part of the building, and beings in a situation very different unfortunate

admitted found the

I expected, judging from other were all assembled parts of the prison. They in various in a large room, and employed
from

what

occupations. that
cases,

In

no

countenance

tranquillity

of
men

mind,
;
nor

could I read visible, in most did they appear

in that of the

NEW

PRISON.

219

very

submissive

to the newly

established
or

dis

cipline. No

oath, met

noisy mirth, I admit, ; but there was my ears

astoundingan

incessant

whispering, and their significant looks evi dently showed that they understood each other. In a word, much as I admired the prison of the
men,

"

as reject,

perfectly

unfit, that

of the

and add, that if no alteration is made in the detention of the latter, no reform can be expected in that quarter ; and the liberated
women,

female

will re-appear
more

in the world, not

better,

but considerably first apprehended. The again

unless in
a

demoralized,

than when

friends

of

the
no are

Philadelphia
reform kept

system

contend

that

is practicable

the prisoners

night

and

day

Following this plan, a of solitude. prison has been founded which, when ready, in a sun, will resemble with rays diverging
state

every

direction.

The

centre to
a

is composed

of

rotunda, this
est
run

appropriated long
so

watch-room

; from

corridors, possessing
that

echo,

tant,

may

every be heard from

are

sound,
one

the strong however dis

to the other.

end

On

each
are

side
so

the cells, between

which

the

is thick, that all communication impossible. Each cell is eight feet wide, It twelve feet long, and sixteen feet high. walls

220

NEW

PRISON.

has
from
water,

free ventilation the

by

an

air conductor

corridor, is provided with sufficient light, and heat, and is, besides, fire

proof.
in the
to take

The

bed of the prisoner against

much
room.

is turned
so
as

up
not

day-time up
too

the wall,

Outside

the cell

enjoy
From
every

feet wide, and twenty feet long, surrounded by a high wall : the prisoner fresh air, and is there permitted to breathe the sight of the blue canopy of heaven. is
a

yard,

eight

the passage, thing

may
a

through
be
seen

small that

openings, is passing in with prisoner is yard, till expired.

up

the cells, and

out
never

secret

police is kept

the slightest difficulty.

The
or

permitted
period of

to leave

his cell

the When

his

detention

has

divine service is performed, small shut ters, fixed in the wall towards the passage,
are

removed

look at each
occasion,
one

and, that the prisoners may not other, a curtain is put up for the
middle of the corridor, from The clergyman stands and
:

in the

end

to the other.

in the door

of the watch-room, the prisoners

directs his

voice vault
most

towards
carries

every
cell.

distant

word In the
was

the echo of the distinctly "to the year

1832,

the
;

number

of prisoners
new

only
now

ninety-two under
con-

but

the

outbuildings,

FIRST

MOMENTS

OF

CONFINEMENT.

221

struction,

will

soon

allow

space

for

one

thou

sand criminals. Few moments,

the prisoners
than from

according
are

to

the saying- of
more

themselves,

dreadful cell, for

the firstentrance which

or
an no

into this tomb-like

can

release I
was

be

hoped

months
a

years.

fortunate

to obtain

sight of

offender, condemned
at

to four years'

imprisonment,

the

moment
was

of

his

intro

duction. the next

His

first look

that of curiosity,

His the third horror. astonishment, a long arms crossed on his chest, he remained if roused from ; at last, as while immoveable dream, he looked round, and fixed a lethargic his attention
was on

the

smallest

trifle. But

it

not

long He

before

every

objecthad
to doubt

been

surveyed.

still seemed

the pos

In vain did he rub sibility of his detention. A natu his eyes : the walls were stillthere. drove him to the door, which he ral impulse be to not endeavoured unlock : it could

opened. find out posed

cape.
:

He

laid his hands

materials

on

the walls, to
were
com

of what
even

they
no

these looked

held

out

hopes

of

es

He

towards
"Damn

the

he

could

not

reach.

ceiling : this it !" exclaimed with fury,

he, whilst beating his forehead wildly both hands. He gnashed his teeth with

222

BENEFITS

OF

SOLITUDE

and

the

froth of rage nothing

whitened
was

his lips.

At

sacred to him. Fa ther, mother, mistress, friends, all could he have despatched in cold blood. He forgot now that moment heaven and
earth, and the air with language of hell.
rent

im

precations

and

the

He

scoffed contemptuously
ened
was

at religion, and

threat Work Bible, and the

it of

the whole world with vengeance. it. The offered him : he

rejected
scorn,

that

great

solace

of the unfortunate

unhappy, be might
sixty.
Let
us

he shut given
to

with
some

and old

wished
woman

godly

return

to

the The

same

individual

six

months

afterwards.

sion has subsided.

firstparoxysm of pas Solitude, indeed, has calmed

He
now

all the passions. God him him

now

threatens
conscience

neither occupies

nor

man.

His

own

from
open

Despair makes tillnight. morning the Bible : a new and true doctrine
to his heart.

speaks patiently

From

this moment
of the

he

submits

to

the discipline

prison. His vindictiveness gradually changes into submission, self-love is and his wounded cured
ses

by

consciousness

his punishment and fresh infliction awaits that no human him being can upbraid

that nobody witnes dishonour. He knows

him,

that

no

for transgres-

AND

OF

EMPLOYMENT.

223

sions
new
a

committed,
ones.

or

induce becomes

him

to

commit

Solitude
he

at last pleasing,
on

result which
a

little anticipated,

enter

ing

prison.

Offer him

the company

criminal ; he will on be allowed to preserve pray that he may former seclusion, But, without occupation
ther condemned

of ano his knees

his in

his confined

cell, how

wearisome

life be to him ? portable would for society : if all communication

and insup is born Man

with livingat

beings

is cut

off, he

must

be

employed Among
on

something
all the

that
prisoners
was

fixes his attention.

whom
not
one

I examined

the speak

there subject, of work day," have only

then

that did not

with

feelings of gratitude.
prisoner,
to

"Sun
history I
"

said the very

whose
relate,
to
me

briefly endeavoured day which appears

no

is the

long

1 have

Occupa of working." tion gives a certain interest to the cell, which it did not possess before ; it has, besides, the
opportunity
of fatiguing the mind.
of

advantage pressing

the body,

without

de

This
one

individual,

driven

to the commission

of the most

atrocious

crimes

by thoughtlessness
singularly

found,

in occupation.
a

enough, Indolence

and indolence, now his only happiness had

excited when
once

in him

degree

of abhorrence

which,

libe-

224

EFFECTS

OF

ABSOLUTE

SOLITUDE.

rated, will enable

him

to

earn

his bread
can

in

an

honourable
advance

What way. the improvement

prison of
a

better

culprit him

than
to
re

that

which

imperceptibly for
in
a

teaches

pent, to hope

better life,to hate idleness,

and

to

seek

religion

his

only

consola

tion ?

To

induce

prisoner

to reflect, undoubtedly

the first step towards

reformation, system,

he should
as

be alone.
before
not
as

The

Pennsylvania
says
answer

I have

observed,

sufficient to
a man

that solitude at night is the purpose, inasmuch

who

is exhausted

by
gives

the

day's

fatigue, when
to

night
of

comes,

himself
to

up
the

the

solace

rest

rather A with
man

than who,

seriousness
course
sees

of thought.

in the

of the day, works

so

other prisoners,

many best

new

around objects
in

him,

that,

with
cannot

the

inclination time
to
or

devote

think
of the

world, he of himself and

the
manner

his

former

crimes,

of

re

conciling
on

them

to

his

present

life.

Left,

the other hand, in solitude, night and day, he is obliged to think, the narrow cell offering distraction, food for his thoughts. no no Where
there
tions !
a

spider

or

worm

indeed

is

man

may form an left to his own

epoch,
reflec

EFFECTS

OF

ABSOLUTE

SOLTTUDE.

225

On
have

common

prisoners, such

in particular

as

any education, this un interrupted solitude has, in general, had a of still stronger influence. They have none received which can revert to the great productions of former days, to the politics of the present day, or to con calculations for the future : they are of
tinually reminded of the cause of their de On persons so disposed it is easy tention. favourable impression. If these to make a precious moments how knows man
are

hardly

the

resources

an

enlightened

mind,

not

lost, if the clergy

of them, advantage doubt can be entertained that the criminal no The be reclaimed. voice of religion, may from the lips of the spiritual adviser, makes

to

take

deeper impression, and causes greater emotion, in solitude than in the bustle of the world.
"

warning and encou and full of hope, pene raging, threatening trates the heart, like a voice from the other world. The captive not

His

language,

at

once

only views

his

own

physical sufferings with resignation, but im bibes clearer ideas of God, of eternity, of future punishments and rewards. What seems
particularly to operate upon a prisoner thus situated is the recollection of his family, his nearest alone of a derelations. The name
VOL.
II.

226

PRISON

IN

PHILADELPHIA.

serted
shakes wife

wife, his

an nerves.

aged
"

father,
Tell
curse
me

sickly only

child,
my
of

that
one

and

son

do
"

not

me,"

said

these prisoners,
to my

and

I will cheerfully submit

fate !

"

It has often been

tails the most prisoners.

that solitude en injurious effect on the health of

affirmed

This

is

an

unreasonable by experience.

assertion,

completely

refuted

When
none

visited the prison in Philadelphia,

inmates

of the

to sickly look : I do not mean say that they had the freshness of health, but
a

had

their faces did not

common

bear

the

asserted when
common

in other prisons. that their health entered

were

yellow Medical
was

tinge
men

so

even

better

than

they
cases

the

The most prison. colds, dysenteries, and the prevalence

of the

consumptions.

During

cholera in the city, not a single case occurred here. Nor was insanity more frequent than
among the number From of liberty.
to
same

of

men

in the

en

joyment
average
than

the establishment end

of this prison, down

mortality may five per cent.

is then
to

of 1833, the be calculated at less the

Which

of

these

two

systems
ness

the

more

conducive proposed by

to useful

and

the

ends

the

com

munity

RESULTS

OF

DIFFERENT

PRISONS.

227

The

Philadelphia

system

impossibility of contamination The Auburn system depends

on

the guarantees by contact.

in this respect

the attention of the overseers. Philadelphia the produces

on

strongest

im

pression
a

the prisoners, and, consequently,

forms

greater reform than Auburn, which, however, for social life. Philadelphia
fect ignorance
tune.
as

them

more

leaves

prisoners in per to their comrades in misfor

the

Auburn
course.

only

prevents

natural
make

recovering that their former

contract

On

their verbal inter their liberty, it is

them

sufferings should intimacies, for the pur

crimes.

new pose of committing Philadelphia has not

yet opened

its doors

single prisoner, after the ex Hence it may piration of his first detention. be inferred, either that a complete reform has
second
a

time to

been

probable, that effected, or, what is more the prison inspires such horror that it deters him
from

fresh trespasses.
cannot

Auburn result. At

show

the

same

favourable
proportion
time of
to

this

prison,

the

prisoners those

condemned the

for the second

composing

aggregate

of
Q 2

inmates

228

RESULTS

OF

DIFFERENT

PRISONS.

was,

from

the

year

1824

to

1831,

as

one

to

nineteen.

Philadelphia
rival, and
must

is
ever

more

expensive
more

than

its

cost

than
to

Auburn. that
more

Here prison

it is necessary built
in

remark
was

the

Philadelphia

expensive

than
a

necessary.

Experience may be

has

shown

that

great

saving

effected.

Philadelphia
burn
:

ought
see

to

pay

as

well

as

Au

I cannot

any

reason

done

in solitude should not be the institution as that executed It would, before

as

why work lucrative to

in
a

common

workshop.
some

undoubtedly,

require

time

the prison

itself without though,

seer,

assistance
to

could maintain from State, the

of the
over

according

the report has be

this desirable

result it may

attained.
may
burn
one

Hence

already been hoped that it

the Au

day, like prisons

following

system, have a surplus revenue. has hitherto paid better than Phila Auburn Prisons adopting delphia. this plan have not only maintained the

themselves,
result
to

but
of
a

have

ex

hibited
ble the

singular

considera

surplus
case

accruing
Auburn,

the

State.

This

is

at

Wethersfield, Baltimore,

"c.

RESULTS

OF

DIFFERENT

PRISONS.

229

The

Philadelphia
more

system radical

is, therefore,

in

my
in

opinion,

in its effect, better in every

re

its execution,

and

deserving
to the act

spect

the preference
are

other,

if sufficient the
first

funds

found

to

upon

it at

foundation

of the prison.

CHAPTER
En tin, qu' est volre

VIII.

chef/ PASSEVAL.

THE States
other

person
is not

of the President
more

of the United that

of any

sacred

than The

private
no

individual.

Constitution
for him
in

provides
affords public.
no

farther

protection

than
the

it

to

the
a

meanest

citizen
or

Re
has

For

provocation that which

insult, he
to

remedy
"

but

is open
A

every

one

the tribunal

of the country.
to what
course

singular
been

circumstance,

applicable
in the

I have

saying,
spring.
sistent

happened General with his

of the present

Jackson
duty the
of
on
a

had

deemed
out

it
of

con

to
name

strike of
in
an

the

rolls of the Navy

an

officer for the

service.

alleged

neglect

duty

Whilst
burg

proceeding
in Virginia,

journeyto
he

Fredericksbeen
in

whither

had

vited for the purpose

stone

of laying

the foundationof Washing-

for

monument

in honour

ASSAULT

ON

THE

PRESIDENT.

231 insulted

ton's

mother,
in

he the

was

grossly

at

of the steamboat few minutes, and a which stopped struck in the face by the aggrieved lieutenant, cabin there for
who had previously in the best manner ceived
to

Alexandria,

determined

to be avenged,

he could, for what

he

con

be

gross

injury. The
in years,

President,

although
in
an

advanced

attitude
on

of defence,

placed himself to and intended

a

inflict

the

bold
his

aggressor
own
cane.
a

summary During
the

chastisement confusion
tenant

with

incidental in such

scene,

the lieu
across

effected his escape, and line into Virginia. boundary

wards
same

fled He

the after

was

upon

before the tribunal in the arraigned State, for having an committed assault the firstmagistrate of the Republic, and
to
a

sentenced
matter

short

imprisonment
more

; here
was

the

rested, and of it. The suit was

not

nothing between
and

heard Jackson,
con

General

President

Jackson,

the accused,

individuals, who had two sequently, between Whe to abide by the decision of the court. or ther the aggressor had been justly
dealt with by the President, it was, neverthe less, unwarrantable and disgraceful for a man of honour to resort to personal violence towards
a

unjustly

man

of the President's

advanced

years.

232

THE

PRESIDENT'S

TOUR.

Scarcely
sion, when

he returned from this Genera] Jackson determined

tour

had

excur

to

un

dertake
and

his famous

through

the Northern that

Eastern
was

States.
mixed
that

I have

little doubt

this plan

rations, and

up with its

object

political conside in part, to was,

the courage of his friends, and if pos sible to lessen the number of his enemies, at the Several towns through ensuing elections. he passed on themselves the which arrayed uphold side of opposition
claration,
:

notwithstanding

this de

they every

received

the

distinguished of outward where his

guest

with In

demonstration
for instance,

respect.
measures

Boston,

were

condemned

by the
was

of majority
as

the citizens, his reception

clude the inference of
a

such

to pre

general

dislike to his

Persons, who had upon all occasions policy. inveterate opponents, been his most and who had
never

ceased

to

counteract

his wishes,

placed

themselves

foremost

in the

ranks
their
con

of

Jackson offered General his arrival. It on gratulations those who

the
man,

was

not

to

but

to

the President

of the United

States, that they and upon

which and

wished

to

show

attention

this principle they neglected

nothing

possibly enhance eclat of his reception. could

the splendour In New York,

HIS

RECEPTION

IN

NEW

YORK.

233

nearly
occasion

half

its population

assembled

on

the
;

at the Battery

and

at Castle Garden
was

and

the crowd

in the streets

beyond

all

precedent.

It certainly

is not

going

beyond

the limits of truth to of those than them He and

one

state,

that

the number
not
even

who

received

him

could
I

be less heard
number.

hundred
at

thousand;
a

computed
came
on

still greater from steamboat of

that
from

day
the

Philadelphia,
at

landed

Castle
city

Garden,

where

the

authorities

the

paid their respects to the distinguished visiter. Here he mounted horseback, to on proceeded the
Battery, received
a

number

of

militia,

his route to the place of resi and continued him, amidst dence to a mass of assigned continual huzzas and waving people, whose of

handkerchiefs and
sence

sufficiently indicated they derived

from in New

the

joy

satisfaction

the

of their chief magistrate

pre York.

In

passing with
nigh

the the

bridge, Battery,

connecting
he

Castle
had

Garden
well

however,

terminated his horse

his

glorious

career. one

Hardly end

had

quitted

it, before

of this decayed

structure

gave

way,

and

the whole weight of dense mass followed close a of people, which behind the President. with

fell into the water,

234

ACCIDENT

AT

NEW

YORK.

Curiosity
company

had
a

also led
few

me

to

the

spot, in the the

with
as

friends, to every

witness
on
a

landing* ;

the crowd,

moment

increase, precluded
we were

the possibility of
to remain
on

retreat,

obliged

the bridge At this moment,

till

it had

somewhat part of it, with way, the

dispersed.
a

small

gate

gave adjoining,
on a

and
roof

precipitated all those on it and into the water. Hundreds took

cold

comfortable

bath

in honour

of the fes

tivity : others, less fortunate, stuck fast in the mud, and looked at each other with woeful The sight was laugh countenances. at once
able and
ever,

melancholy.
than

The the

fright

was,

how
water

being mud,

greater low and

as

danger,

the

the bottom
clearly shown

consisting

of soft

was

of those who few corpulent

were

had

by the garments just emerged from it. A suffered by the

most,

individuals

dreadfully squeezed
us

crowd.

and In

front of

under

stood several persons, this disadvantage, who, when

labouring they
once

felt their feet slipping, could not possibly be : checked before they had reached the bottom
this incident, coupled
treat
or

with

an

opportune
a

re

of

few

yards

from

the spot,

second
us

two

before the accident

occurred,

saved

from

participating

in the aquatic

experiment.

PRESIDENT'S

JOURNEY

TO

BOSTON.

235

None hats

perished,
were

of coats

: received any injury a few in the bay, and numbers swimming had to be sent to the tailors for im
or

mediate
After

repairs, being

torn
a

in various

having

feasted hands
with

few

days

places. at New of citi

York,
zens,

shaken given

thousands

audience to the ladies of the city, from the authorities and received presents for private individuals"*, the President started he met Boston, where cordial with the same
reception,
whole

although

he

could

not,

among
more

the
than

calculate upon population, one-sixth as his political friends.

At

Roxburgh,

not

far from

Boston,
on

tri

arch had been erected, umphal The the following inscription :

"

which was Union must

be preserved," used by

which

General

alluded to an expression Jackson the winter before,

when the principles of Nullification threatened The President dissolution of the States. a
was

delighted
in

on a

reading
tone

exclaimed, determined
as

this inscription, and his which characterized

"

disposition,
there is
a

It shall be preserved,
in this
arm."

long

as

nerve was

In Boston

itself,he

authorities, and
*

proceeded

received by all the in an open landau

a

authorities of the city presented him with black suit, "c. dle-horse , and a tailor, with a new
The

beautiful sad

236
through

RECEPTION

AT

BOSTON.

the ranks

of several
sexes.

thousand Further

wellon,

dressed
he

children

of both Engine
other

passed

all the

Companies,
insignia

with

their

colours

and

displayed;

and,

finally, through regiments,

some

the

militia uniforms,

and

were

known
muskets

of several had no of whom to be soldiers only

ranks

by their carrying

on

their shoulders,

at their backs. and cartouch-boxes Independently of reviews, breakfasts,

pers, and
at which

entertainments

of different
was

sup kinds,

the President
one

obliged
to

to

drink

with any honour, he was

wine

who

chose

solicit the

completely
at which

fatigued
custom
one.

by conti

nual presentations, him to shake hands This, coupled attributable

rain, operated

required

with every

with various attacks of colds, his bare head to to his exposing

so

seriously

on

the

health

of

the veteran,

that, instead
he

of

continuing all

his
the

journey, as
Northern
at

intended,

through
was

and

Eastern
in

States, he
Hampshire,

obliged,
to retrace

Concord,

New

his steps towards

Washington.

During
was

he the greater part of this journey, by the Vice-President, and accompanied

one

of the

Secretaries

particularly

of State ; but as both, favourites with no the first,were

BLACK

HAWK.

237

the people of Boston, they thought it expedient to keep in the back-ground, and only appeared under the shade of the President. Shortly after the arrival of General
at New

Jackson
Indian

York,

came

also the celebrated

Chief, Black
war

Hawk,

of

1832,

who, captured during the States, had, in the Western the Prophet and their
full-

together

with

grown

sons,

been
to
now
a

sent,

first to St. Louis,

and

afterwards They had accompanied

fort not far from been

Washington.

by

an

restored to liberty, and, interpreter, they at length

leave to return to their wives, chil obtained dren, and home, on the other side of the Mis

sissippi.

Black
with
a

Hawk

himself

was

an

bald
to

head
me

and
the

serene

elderly man, His son look.

of
human

appeared
strength all those

beau

ideal

; and,

although

rather fat, possessed

so

advantages
even

lated to subdue The

manners

well calcu the coldest female heart.

of person

Prophet,
a

again, had in his looks and he never stoical dignity, which

It
was

failed to support.
ver

not difficultto disco

that this
thoughts

man

had
more

devoted depth
minds
as

part of his life than those that

war

to

of

generally
riors.

engage In him, as

the
well

of Indian

in the countenance

238

INDIANS

AT

NEW

YORK.

of his

son,

T thought

that T could

discover

certain secret savage blood.

disposition to spill human

These

Indians

happened that

to
a

arrive

at New

York

the very time of the name of Durant,

at

bold aeronaut,
an

made

ascent

in

all they had seen deeper States, nothing made a

balloon.

Of

in the United impression The

on

them crowd

than

this aerial

voyage.

great

upon the occasion, the hand assembled buildings, the splendid equipages, most some had struck them : perhaps they undoubtedly

might

even

the many

fallen in love with some fair squaws, who, from motives

have

of of

curiosity, daily visited them in New York, and who, as

ceived,
were

during
the marry

their stay
con

Indians them.

desirous
was

to

But

the aeronaut admiration

cerer,

always

they looked
mentioned for
so

uppermost upon him

the
name

in their
as
a

sor

and

never

of the him,
but in

Great with

Warrior,

they

styled

the

deepest

veneration.

Probably,

the account

given by them to their children of what they have seen, he plays as great a part as the father himself at Washington.
About
summer,

this time,

in the
a

beginning

of the
to

Newport

I undertook and Plymouth.

short

excursion

NEWPORT.

239 in the State of Rhode

same

Newport

is situated

Island, not far from

river which
runs

spot where the Providence through the

sea.

dis
an

charges
ugly

itself into the old-fashioned

so

The

town

has and

and
seem

appearance,
one

the

houses
imagine

indifferent that
to have

them

been

might almost collected from the England

refuse of all parts of the New

States.
by
In

The

inhabitants which this

subsist almost is not

exclusively

shipping,
summer,

inconsiderable.

place

is much

frequented

by

strangers, bathing.

by the excellent sea attracted be the last For my part, it would select for
a summer

spot I should

residence,
within
or

having
without dence

nothing
the town.

inviting,

either
an

This

is

additional
prevalent

evi in

of the singularity induces America, which

not

of taste

summer

in

the

the people to spend country, but in a petty

of

town,
sures

for the

purpose

enjoyingthe

plea

of

inhaling
ious to
at
once

winter's social life,in preference to salubrious country air. I felt anx

see

the curiosities of the city, and

two

was

shown

places known

situated

outside
names

the

town

of Newport,

by

the

and Paradise, and which, accord ing to what I was total the sum told, formed My readers, I of what the city had to boast. Purgatory

240

PURGATORY

AND

PARADISE.

presume,

are

as

anxious

as

was

to become

interesting-. so acquainted places with two Let us perform a pilgrimage together. is a steep rock, in Along the sea-shore

which
and
most

cleft has been formed, equally narrow The in dark. to the sea penetrates
a

recesses

of the

aperture,

and

recedes the froth

with

noise from
waves

the opening,
rises like

where
a

of agitated In the upper formed

to and
a

white

column.

part of this cleft, a few birds had

settlement,

and
pit.
on,
one

hovered
This
at
was

restlessly Purga
foot of
a

fro in the dark

A

tory.

little further
is
a

the

mountain,
an

grove,

on

ugly

shade

miserable of trees, a few fat

and

side inclosed by hedge. Under the

were seen

cows

feed

on the slumbered who, to grass, pleasant to behold, a damsel judge from the empty pail standing by her

ing ; and

not

far from

them

the spot for the ; but, pro purpose of milking the said cows bably struck with the beauty of the place, had
side, must

have

repaired

to

fallen into

profound

sleep.

This

was

Pa

radise. Satisfied with a hasty peep into recesses and with of Purgatory, much
as

the

dark

enjoyingas

I could

proceeded

of the felicity of Paradise, I to Plymouth, by land from Newport

STAGE-COACH

COMPANIONS.

241
no

in Massachusetts.

The
worth

country

presented

peculiar

feature

extremely road was fish-bones and fish-skins were for the fields, by which stench
was

mentioning, and the Near Newport, sandy. used

a

as

manure

most

offensive

diffused all
was

over

the neighbour
it
was

hood.
ous

assured This to health.

; at

that

not

injuri
to

contest

all events

point I do not mean it was extremely

dis fra

agreeable,

and

took

away
I

all the balmy

grance of country air. On leaving Newrport, the stage

was

by

number

only not increased when

in accompanied three individuals, which

was

till we
we

were

half

to Plymouth, way four elderly men,

were

joinedby
from
a

justreturning
had
usual been upon

wed
of all

ding, where
the amusements

they

partaking

They
and

and
who

to me appeared to to have done ample justice both wine travelling companions, ; but my punch

such occasions. regular bacchanalians,

happened

to be distinguished

of the Temperance did not at first perceive their state. was uttered in the coach for word while ; the four
new-comers

promoters Societies in New York, Not

a

long them
previ

diverted
were

selves with looking ously in the coach.

VOL.
II.

at those who

They

must

have
R

become

242

WHISKY-PUNCH.

pretty well tired with

all at
once,

this examination,

for,

few dozen
which

they pulled out of their pockets a biscuits, pieces of bread, and tarts,
attacked
most
came

they

the critical moment

But voraciously. at last : out of their

modestly the necks of a The promoters couple of well-filled bottles. Societies turned York Temperance of the New had previously, with pale at the sight. They
coat-pockets peeped the patience
of Job,
to

allowed
consume

the hungry

tra

vellers peaceably

their dry provi

to
a

sions, and
crumbs

tamely

submitted

profusion

of

all present. sprinkled over But when they saw the bottles making their appearance, and detected the odour of whiskyof a Temper punch, so repulsive to a member

carelessly

ance

Society, they shrank

gazed
at each
were

back
as

with

horror, what this

and

other,
to

if to consult

measures

proper

be adopted

on

One of them, who shortly be emergency. fore, in a dissertation, which lasted four long miles, had, as he thought, eloquently treated
"

of

the beneficial frame,"

at

influence length

of water

on

the

human thus

took

courage,
:
"

the drinking party addressed have Societies, I presume, perance

vocates

and Tem
ad

few the

in you

the

neighbourhood
?"

of
"

place
on

where

reside, gentlemen

Fudge

TEMPERANCE

SOCIETIES.

243

your

Temperance

of the opponents, They have already done harm in enough Of late years, people have actu this world. ally been as if smitten with a mania for drink
"

Societies !" exclaimed one with the bottle to his mouth.

ing* water

That

? is the consequence and what the they died like horse-flies the moment
;

cholera made

its appearance."
"

"

As

for

me,"

another, rejoined
me
:

they

have

totally ruined up, for

remedy this distemper, all the distilleriesin the NewEngland States will, upon my honour, be shut
up, and what
nor

and

my rum-distillery if we do not soon

is nearly knocked

find

some

the people them."

will then become the Government who

of
can

us

? Neither do without

"Europeans

have
"

country,"
to

state

observed a third, in their travels how

we

visited this make it a point

thin and
wi

and

dry

Americans
our
can

are are

extremely in general,
long

wonder

why

faces

so

and

thered !

How

ple drink nothing nothing but water perance

store

it be otherwise, when peo but water ! Think of that,

!"

The
mean

champion

of Tem
a

had,

in the

time, collected

in support of water-drink ing and abstinence ; and I could easily read in his eyes a certain impatience to defend his of arguments To

cause.

judge by

his anxiety, he must

R

in-

'2

244

SILENCING

ARGUMENT.

deed

have
on

prepared

one

of the most

orations

this interesting
had
up,

subject

eloquent ; for, when

the
nance

last speaker

cleared graced

concluded, and a kind

as

his counte
of confident of victory

smile

his lips, At

if certain

beforehand.

this moment,

the the

fourth

of
ex

the

wedding

party

finished

bottle,

the whilst throwing claiming, into a ditch close to the road, in

capable
true
as

empty
a

vessel

tone
arm

of voice
:
"

of deterring
I
am

the

boldest

As

the sitting here, I will drown friend I get hold of in a tub first Temperance
of brandy
!" A

gesture,

suitable

to the

ex

pression, followed this solemn friend and champion of water

He

assurance. was vow

The

staggered. made
to

by

no

means

relished

this

Bacchus,

wisely

and
which

continued
was

to circumstances, conformed laboured speech silent. The

to

ready

burst
was

from

his lips

re

mained
for
a

undelivered, or favourable more

doubt appear

reserved

at least

opportunity,

will

no

pregnant

with

it when irresisti

ble arguments. The conversation

short;

was

here

every

one

resumed rolled
on

cut suddenly his former silence;

and

the

coach
we

without

interrup of Ply

tion, until

arrived

at the old town

mouth.

PLYMOUTH.

245
to

This many

place, remarkable
on

which

recalls

memory

so

events

in American
at the

his foot of

tory, stands
an

the The

sea-shore,

eminence.

harbour

is large,

would if it

be
were

one

of the best in the United

It is formed

and States

deeper.

by

project
which
a

ing point of land

opposite

to the town,

stretches into the sea circle. In the opening,

of which
a

in the form

of

semi

appear

several islands,
Island, because
was

one

is called Clarke's
name,
one

man

of that first who

of the pilgrims,

the

set foot

on

this shore. the Sunday

On

this

island

the pilgrims
on

passed

before

they landed

the American day, by

on

they did the following

the
most

territory, which for a rock now

a

part

covered emigrants,

store-house.
only

These
were

English
the

whose

objects
and Decem

free exercise

of their
on

religion

peaceable

home,

landed

the 22d

ber, 1620.
Wild
was

Moaned
When Our

strand., firstthe thoughtful and the free, fathers, trod the desert land. how

the day, the wintry sea England's sadly on New

They

little thought

pure

light,

With How
How

years, should gather round that day ; love should keep their memories bright,
wide
a

realm

their

sons

should

sway.*

Bryant's

Poems,

p. 204.

246

CEMETERY

OF

PLYMOUTH.

On

an

eminence

above

the town

is

ceme

tery, where
inhabitants
stones
are

the remains
are

of

some

of the

first

interred.
over
or

Numerous
this ground rather
:

grave
on

scattered
was

one
an

of them

sitting,

reclining,

elderly well-dressed man, whose to be fixed on the fine harbour island at roused seemed ed. The
a

eyes appeared

and

the

small steps
:

distance.
from

The

sound

of my

him

his deep
offended
view, and

meditations

he

to be almost

at being disturb

beautiful

the fineness of
as

moonlight
tion
as

evening, himself to
one

gave

me

enjoy

both.

inclina much I sat down in

silence

on

and which the

examined here

at his side, of the grave-stones with interest the green moss

and

there

covered

them,

and

hid Sir

names

of those who
Browne's

reposed

beneath.

Thomas

celebrated
now

dissertation

called "Hydriotaphia" How my imagination.

profound
stones

presented itselfto true did the ideas of this

appear
to
me

philosopher
tell truth

! "Grave

scarce

forty

years,"

says

he, in

one

part of the said work

; "generations

trees stand, and old families pass while some last not three oaks. To be read by bare in in Gruter; to hope for scriptions, like many

eternity
ters

by

enigmatical
names

epithets,

or

first let

of

our

; to

be studied

by antiqua-

CEMETERY

OF

PLYMOUTH.

247
names

ries, who
us,

we

were,

and

have

new

given
con

like many
unto

of the mummies,

are

cold

solations
even

the

students languages."
thoughts

of

perpetuity,

by everlasting affinity
me

An

of

and

purposes

brought

at
man.

length His

in closer

contact

with the

the elderly stamp

conversation the

bore

of learning,

and

language

which
ac

fell from
ceptation he seemed

his lips

was

eloquent With

in the true

of the word.
to dwell
on

peculiar

delight

which had to Plymouth a given place in history, and spoke, with real enthusiasm, of several traits in the firstcolo the lifeof the Indians, with whom
those events
nists had
to fight for possession.

His

descrip
and from
:

tion of

the

progress

of the colony,

the
it,

have consequences resulted which in the highest degree interesting were

since often regretted every
times, in word he came

I have
retain

that

I could

not

concluded
poetical

From former memory. at last to the present; and his narrative with a few short and my

reflections respecting

the

cemetery, the

the moonlight,
prospect before he, in

the stillness of night, and

us.
an
"

Look

around
"

you,"

exclaimed
a

elevated
At

voice;

here lies
of these among

world

of

men

!"

the conclusion

words,

he

rose

; and, pursuing

his way

248

LOWELL.

the tombs, my sight.

From

his shadow

soon

disappeared

from

Plymouth

thence

to again miles from the latter city. A canal has, for for the transport some years, been employed

I proceeded to Boston, and distant twenty-six Lowell,

of goods

between

Boston

and

Lowell;

but

is now private company occupied in construct ing a railroad in the same direction, which will

further facilitate the communication. Lowell is situated

at

the

junction of
the banks
to

the
of

Rivers
which

Merrimack
are

and

Concord,
interesting

extremely

the

eye.

The
boast
census,

town,

of
a

one

which twenty years ago could only hut, has now, to a late according
three of twelve thousand It has already as sixty-three. of
a

population

hundred sumed
tains

and

the appearance several fine and

large town,
streets,
a

con

particularly embellished tensive factories, of which full activity.

a

wide by

and
of
were

is
ex

number

nineteen

in is, in

The

prosperity attributable

of Lowell
to

great

measure,

the

encou
manu

ragement
factures
;

given
and

in later times this place

was

to home

favoured the New

by the circumstance

particularly that the soil in

so

England
can

States
support

is generally

poor
nor

that it neither

its population,

COTTON

MANUFACTORIES.

249

hold

sufficient inducement in that branch of in to invest their property dustry. The the of factories is on number by All are increase carried on every year. from the two the falls streams, water power
out to capitalists

of which

are

calculated

at about

thirty feet.
in six

The

vested
millions

amount of capital already whole is about in these manufactories

Company
a

of dollars, of which alone has embarked The

the
one

Merrimack

about and fifty feet long, by forty-five in width, and is The five stories high. of looms number
more

half.

buildings

are

million and hundred one

than

three thousand.

Of cotton
or

no

less

than

eight millions of pounds,

twenty

thou
manu

sand bales, are annually factured goods amount

lions of yards. Five

worked

up

the

to twenty-seven

mil
one

thousand
males, females,

persons,

thousand

two

hundred

and
are

three

thousand
at

eight hundred

employed

the

yearly
of
one

and receive manufactories, for their labour the considerable sum

million two hundred thousand have
of from

different

dollars. yielded
sixteen

Several
to the

of these manufactories

shareholders
per cent.

dividends

to twenty

Not
here,

cotton only are but carpets and

stuffs manufactured
fine cloths
are

also

250

FACTORY

GIRLS.

made,

in which
are

five hundred

thousand

pounds
of these is
at
course

of wool carpets,

as

used in a far at least

vie with

year.
as

Many

richness of colour manufactured

concerned, Brussels.

those

It is presumed

that, in the

of time, this place

will be

able to supply

the

whole country with these articles of luxury. is chiefly factories the work At the cotton performed by young
no

Company
two

employs

girls. The Merrimack fewer than one thousand

of whom
earn

hundred,
as

the

cleverest

as

much They

three and
of
one

dollars lodge

board

half a week. a and in the neighbourhood

a

at the rate

and they

have

thus

dollar and handsome a

quarter
surplus,

week,
which It not

deposit

in the

Savings' that
as

Bank. these

imfrequently industry, charge

to
save

happens
so

much of
an

to

girls, by be able to dis

parent,
or

the debts
a

unfortunate

which, by the of relatives, has been mort mismanagement The greater part or offered for sale. gaged in the neighbourhood, farmers' daughters are redeem
small

property,

and

they have
of
a

nearly

all received

the first ru

diments
look

simple

education. the much

are

None
other

of them

but, on unhealthy, be said to have cannot

hand,
on

they
their
:

colour

cheeks.

Their

morals

unexceptionable

FACTORY

GIRLS.

251

they

are

even

so

other's conduct,

particular that, if any

in regard of them

to each

should

be

suspected of an act of frailty, she is compelled The by the others to leave the place. ma
nager of
one

of these factories assured

me

that
is
so

the police established

severe,
woman,

among

themselves

that, when whose

was

several years

previous

ago, a younglife had been

objec
It

tionable,

unanimously
was

admitted insisted
use

into the
on

factory, they expulsion.

her

of

no

to

tell them

that the propriety been

to

accused
:

now

conducted
that

herself with

it was

enough
was

she

had

once

frail.
prevent

She the
of

accordingly
a

discharged,
revolution

possibility of
women.

in this republic

When

the President
was

visited Lowell

about

this period, he by the factory

received

girls, who

with great pomp determined to hail

Dressed

his arrival in a distinguished manner. in white, with coloured sashes and and

bare heads,

provided

cession

in pro with parasols, they went him, preceded by their respec to meet

tive ensign-bearers.

The and

have

been
no

singular

indeed sight must The Presi imposing. of such

a

dent

doubt

felt proud

reception,

for it is not
pass

the good fortune of every ruler to line of young a through girls a mile

252

ANNIVERSARY

OF

INDEPENDENCE.

in length.

Each

of these

Lowell

vanced
a

five dollars towards

belles ad the formation of

general

fund the
as

for buying

articles requisite

to

enhance In Boston,
of

of the ceremony. splendour in York, sashes and well as

parasols gerly

every

possible

colour

were

ea

that the ladies com up, so bitterly for two plained months afterwards left destitute of these of being necessary
attributes of costume.
return
a

bought

On
whole

my

to

New

York,

I found

the
on

city in
on

state

of uproar

bordering

confusion,

account

of the celebration

of the

4th of July. All offices and shops were closed, dis and the lower classes of people seemed posed to have a frolic. The militia paraded great gratification of the of crackers curious ; and the discharge and filled the of different species of fire-arms
streets,

the

to

the

whole atmosphere with smoke. fighting, and a few accidents,

pected
from
a

Quarrelling,
were

to
own

be

ex

crowd

left to
to

its

discre

tion, and

determined

only national festivity however, it should be stated

enjoythis, almost the In justice, in America.

that, taking the
very peace

whole
ably. The

mass

together, they behaved

following

day

was

celebrated

by the

NEGRO

FESTIVAL.

253

Negroes,
cipation
cession

being
in the

the anniversary

of their

eman

State

of New

York.
by
a

pro
of

of Blacks,

accompanied

band

music,

passed

through

the

principal

streets.

On

the flanks

of this procession,

rode

Negroes
and farce.

dressed

in white,

with whole

epaulettes,
was
a a

sword,

cocked
The

hat.

The

perfect

evening

concluded patronised

with

grand

ball,

exclusively

by the sable population.

CHAPTER
La
des

IX.

ont commence par paroitre grandes decouvertes de genie ne fera jamaisrien s'ila peur des et 1'homme absurdes, plaisanteries. HOLSTEIN. DE STAEL

plupart

IT

was

fine

summer's

day
commence

when

I again

quitted
through
the

New
the

York,

to

my
western

journey
parts
of
visit the

northern
at

and
same

State, and

the

time

to

English
was

possessions

in

Canada.

The

sun

scorching*, but

refreshing made
of the

westerly
the
most

winds up the

cooled

the

air, and
one

trip

beautiful
I had

Hudson
during the
me

agreeable
in America.

taken

my

residence
wails

Never appear
never

did
to

naked
so

of

Palisades
;

high the

and

perpendicular
banks
were never so

had

seen

sloping
as

rich thick
the

and

luxuriant,

covered verdant

they

with had The

woods

and

fields ;
so

highlands
was

appeared
by

imposing.

stream

enlivened

innumerable

sloops,

boats,

T1UP

TO

ALBANY.

255

passed each other and vessels, and steamers in rapid thing* breathed succession ; every life,and The

joy,and
river has

summer. a

very
town

different appearance
of

beyond
Albany, of
that

the

small

Hudson

up

to

from that which place. the The

it exhibits southward
seem

banks
stream
;

almost

to

invade and
to

mighty
of stones,

islands, shoals,

heaps
arrest
on

have

clone their utmost

the

country

cultivated. in every seen After

Albany,
a a

The of the water. progress both sides is plain and highly Cottages and country were
-seats

direction.

trip of eleven

hours, hundred
been

I arrived and

at

distance
miles
:

of

one

fortythat about

five English
it has been

I have

assured

performed

in ten, averaging
an

fourteen
I but
one

miles

day

and a half be permitted

hour.

Could
Fulton

to awake

from his slumber,

and show him what steamers how now the Hudson, navigate astonished he be ! How he incredulously would would shake his head, on being told that a steamboat
may
at

present

hundred

and

distance a perform of one forty-five miles in the short

period of ten hours, including stoppages ! He would stillrecollect the day, when weeks, were yea, months, required for this journey;

256

ANECDOTE

OF

STEAMBOAT.

and

even

after his application

of steam

as

for boats, it took as many propelling power days hours from New to proceed as now following- anecdote The York to Albany. shows been
time.

what

extraordinary
on

improvements since

have Fulton's

made

steam-engines

When

steamboats, and

contrary

to the opinion

of reasonable found,
to at
answer

unreasonable

persons,
of

were

to

the
the

great

satisfaction

Fulton, ridicule

purpose,
on

first bestowed

the general the invention

was

sud

denly

into the warmest changed enthusiasm. Several steamboats on were the put in motion river, and
as

competition
in
ours.

followed

in those times
is

well

as

One

of the steamers

a real stated to have one night encountered London fog (who has not heard of a November

fog in London
ever,

?) The
dark,
the
a

captain

discerned, how
made

in the
come

dim

light, which
conclusion

him

to

natural

that

it

proceeded

from

another
a

steamboat.

He

looked he

at it stedfastly for

long

time ; at length

thought
it
to
to
was run

it neared

him

; and,

convinced

that

in reality another
a race

steamboat,

wishing

increase
as

his men with his, he encouraged the fires and raise the steam.
to the result, he could
not

Anxious

be per-

ANECDOTE

OF

STEAMBOAT.

257
:

suaded
narrowly

to

retire to

rest

for

moment

he

the light, which at times appeared to gain upon him, and again seemed to be distanced, and when the the former was

watched

case,
"

he
on,

Go

heard addressing the engineers : !" boys ! don't spare fuel ! more steam
was

At length morning arrived, and the fog began The impatience to disperse. of gradually
to look the captain may easily be imagined his antagonist in the face, and by a single He glance to crush his audacity at once.

agitated, that he stationary for a moment,

was

so

could but
on

not
ran

remain

down

deck,
to

now

standing

and tiptoe, then

up

stooping
tween

look through

some

the dispersing vapours. oath in his mouth, he mendous

aperture be With a tre

was

launch execrations at his competitor flame issued from his sharp eyes. is close upon He us! overtake
sounded

ready to ; fireand
"

He

will
re

us!"

from several of the spectators. from to stern, and stem sailors ran The furnaces were filled with again.
fuel than the
more

The back
more

prudence dictated for the safety of boilers. The paddles went round with velocity than the wheels of a French
up hill. Confusion and perplexity board. One would almost have
s

stage going

reigned
VOL.

on
ii.

258

ALBANY.

believed that
instead of
what
was
a

privateer

was
or

in sight.

But,

strange

vessel

visible when The light, which in the dark had been supposed from another to proceed steamboat, and had caused
on

any antagonist, the fog dispersed ?

so

much

uneasiness,
was

was

only

a as

lantern

shore.

So weak

board

steamers,

that

the power it was hard a

yet task

on

to

maintain
rent,

the
not

same

and Albany

position to lose ground

against !

the

cur

York,

is the capital of the State of New and looks upon itself as the first city,
in point of wealth,

although,
commerce,

population,

and

it
to

has

but
in

Next

Jamestown,

secondary rank. Virginia, it is the dates its origin first settled

on

oldest city in the Union, from

1612.

and

The

Dutch,

who

here, could
account

scarcely have

selected the spot

of the

fertility of the soil, which

in

this neighbourhood consists chiefly of sand. Their plan was to have a point suitable for trade with they could
at
at

the Indians,

and

better selection Albany

scarcely have
a

made.

has,
even

all times, been

thriving

place ; and

this

day,

although

palm

to New

York,

as

obliged to yield the the first in the State, recollections of its also of its wealth,

it still retains with

pride

antiquity,

and

boasts

ALBANY.

259

to greater ad have appeared would distant vantage had the situation been more from New York, a city that carries every

which

thing
Hudson,
well between
as

before and
as

Its locality, close to the at the mouth of the Erie Canal, it. the beginning of the railroad Hudson, renders it one

at

Mohawk

of the most

and important

States.

Very

places in the Northern in consequence large sums are

circulated in the town : the produce of the from West East, as goods and well as Europe, pay a transit duty, which is not in

the take into account considerable when we immense tract of it, of land situated west
that
must

send

and

receive

every

thing

to this is added this city. When the facility afforded by the canal and the railroad to the transport of goods, it cannot

through

be
in
a

matter

of wonder

that

Albany

should

be

thriving condition. The appearance of the city fully confirms its flourishing state. While shops of every kind meet the eye, and the bustle charac
teristic of where, parts Americans is perceptible every found, which city are in of the finest towns

of the
some

you of remind That Europe.

goes by the
name

street,

in particular, which of State Street, and ascends

S 2

260 hillnot building

far from
not
as

ALBANY.

a a

the river up to the Capitol,

the of taste, where hold the Tribunals,

destitute
well
as

Legislature,

their sittings, is wider than any street I have in America, seen a very striking and produces the effect. Of all the buildings, however,

City Hall
same a

is the handsomest
as

it is upon
on one

the

elevation

the Capitol,
a

square, to which demy, forms another

of white marble, and St. Peter's at Rome, don, is visible at
a

side of third edifice, the Aca

It is built

ornament.

has and

which, like St. Paul's in Lon

dome,

great

distance.
many of the for
a

Albany
families
stance,
:

still possesses
that

of back

Yan

Rensselaer,
to

old in

traces

its ancestry

period
to

anterior

to the foundation
a

of the city ; and

this day
the

respectable Patroon,
our
"

member
an

of it retains

title of

old

Dutch
This

to equivalent tion, however,

master."

word, distinc

has produced this effect, that the ton of the inhabitants is more aristocratic,

and mony

their and

manners

are

more

addicted

to

cere

etiquette, than in any other parts of I often fancied that I recognised the country.
those stiff yet venerable personages, so hap in Irving by Washington pily described

Knickerbocker's

History

of New

York

and

RAILROAD

TO

SARATOGA.

261

I really
answering

met

an

individual of

so
a

the

description
and

completely fat, substan

settler,
a

tial, smoking,

half-sleeping Dutch
out

that I could riot help bursting hearty fit of laughter.

From

into

most

Albany

proceeded

to

Saratoga

springs, a distance of about thirty-six miles on the railroad in little and a half, performed more than three hours. This railroad belongs
to two

companies

one

called

The

Mohawk
The

and

Hudson
and

Company, Schenectady
The

the other

Sa
both

ratoga formed

Company,

first,whose is object to unite the two difficulties rivers, had many large to surmount, a very and has embarked but, notwithstand capital in the undertaking;
since 1830.
a this, the shares were great deal above Although the Erie Canal goes as far as par.

ing

the
at

Hudson, Albany,

with which
still the

it forms

junction
by the

communication

Schenectady this city and railroad between is so active, that the cars, generally loaded,
In a few of the day. years, when railroads will be made from Sara Lake Champlain, this toga to Whitehall, on
run

almost

every

hour

will probably

be the most
in
a

frequented
where

route

to

Canada
is
so

; and,

country

travellingmay

much

in vogue,

these

companies

262

RAILROADS

IN

THE

UNITED

STATES.

fondly
tions.

anticipate

success

from

future

opera

In

no

country

in the

railroads as many is daily increasing within

are there so world in America ; their number

to

such

degree,
a

that,
life,

the

ordinary
more

period

of

man's

they will be
parts

numerous

than

in all other

Since my of the globe put together. arrival in the country, I have counted at least
a

dozen

less than one not opened fifteen miles in length, and the greater part fifty miles. have thus Large sums exceeding by private capitalists for promo ting the public good ; and although here, as in
been invested other

which have been for conveyance,

partly begun,

partly

places, the

the

original

expences generally exceed by fifty per cent,, yet estimate always

that

speculators
It seldom

are

ready
a

to take

happens

company
:

shares. be cannot
that,

formed
in most

for want
cases,

of subscribers shares were in Europe

I found in
to
a

taken take

shorter

period
or

than
our

we

consider,

to sign

names.

This does not exclusively

apply and

also to banks, canals, is gene Money all possible undertakings.

to railroads, but

are that most proposals rally so abundant, a listened to with a view to make profit. In have the United States, within a this manner

RAILROADS

IN

THE

UNITED

STATES.

263

internal improve years, derived more from the speculations of private indi ments viduals, than if the whole had been left to

few

Government.

incredible, yet true, that when the railroads between Boston and Providence, and Wash and Baltimore ington, are finished, which will not take many
months,
one

It is almost

may

travel from that is, by

a

Maine

to Vir

ginia
steam

by

steam,

steamboats

and
seven

carriages,
miles,

distance

of above
or

hundred
hours. perhaps will be

in sixty-five

sixty-seven

of the present generation will live to see the day when railroads North from Virginia, through made

Many

and
to

South New

Carolina, Georgia, Orleans,

thus

and Alabama, and uniting Maine

Louisiana. Government interferes in private un are of this kind, which open to When is formed, it a company
never

dertakings every
one.

an only makes application to the Legislature of the State in which the enterprise is to be carried into effect. If it is considered useful

by the members
not

of both the

Houses,

or

at least

to prejudicial

granted, company.
to

and

an

is public, permission act passed incorporating the

They but

have may

now

no

impediments land
wherever Railrate.

encounter,

buy
a

they please, of

course

at

cheap

264
roads

RAILROADS

IN

THE

UNITED

STATES.

and canals often traverse orchards and parks belonging* to wealthy individuals, who dare not resist, because the public benefits
"

by

it," and

patriotism

requires

that private

convenience

Many

should give way to the public good. of complaints have arisen on account

to private persons the privilege thus granted to tax travellers ; but this prerogative is seldom

abused.

If that should happen to be the last long ; for another the abuse cannot
soon

case, com

pany

starts in opposition, and

the

conse

quence

is, that

one

or

both

generally

fail.

At all events, the public is always benefited if both can be sup by the competition ; even ported, prices are lowered, otherwise the com
the least is patronized, which charges to its fate, and dies a the other is abandoned have I seen the natural death. In no country far as in Ame spirit of competition carried so hun once travelling one rica. I remember

pany

dred

miles

in

stage

for

one

the

expence

was

Upon

a trip of fortyanother for twelve four English miles by a steamboat by the thanked cents and a half, and was

generally occasion, I took

dollar, whereas dollars. seven

captain
was one

into the bargain

the usual

charge finished,
I visited

dollar and

half.

partly railroads, which were partly in progress at the time when

The

NEW

RAILROADS.

265

the United marked

mense or

States,

were

as

follows.
to

I have the im

the length
distance

of them,

show

that
:

each

of them

traverses,

will have

to pass

Miles.

Baltimore and Ohio (fromBaltimore to Pittsburg) Massachusetts (from Boston to Albany)

.

250 200

Catskill to Ithaca (Stateof New

Charleston to Hamburg
Boston and

York) (South Carolina)

.

.167
.

135
114

Brattleboro

(Massachusetts and Vermont)

.

York and New Columbia and Philadelphia

Albany

.160
to York,

(from Philadelphia
.
.

Pennsylvania)
Lexington

.96
.

Camden

and Ohio (from Lexington to (New Jersey) and Amboy

Cincinnati)
...

75
60

Baltimore and Susquehanria (Maryland) Boston and Providence (Massachusetts and Rhode
.

48
43

Island)
about

Trenton

and Philadelphia Providence and Stonington

30

.70
38
"

Baltimore and Washington Hollidaysburg and Johnstown (Pennsylvania) Ithaca and Oswego (New York)
. .
.

37

.28 and Berkshire (New York and Massachusetts) Elizabeth and Somerville (New Jersey)

Hudson

25 25
24

Boston

and Lowell (Massachusetts) Schenectady and Saratoga (New York) Mohawk and Hudson (New York)
. .

about
.

21"
17
it"

.15

Lackawaxen

(fromHonesdale
to Newcastle

to Carbondale,, Pennsylvania)
ami

Frenchtown

(Delaware

Maryland;
.

Philadelphia and Norristown (Pennsylvania) Richmond and Chesterfield (Virginia)

.

15
.12

Manch
Haerlem

Chunck

(Pennsylvania) (from New York to Haerlem)

to

8 6

Quincy (from Boston

New
Orleans

Quincy)
Pontchartrain

...

(from Lake

to New

Orleans)

5"

The

extent

of all these
one

aggregate

of

thousand

railroads forms an hundred and seven

266

RAILROAD

TO

SCHENECTADY.

fifty miles.

Ten

years be

hence, this amount

of
so

miles will probably that than

scarcely

doubled
roads

or

trebled,

any

other

will be

used
may

those

on

which

steam

carriages

travel.

But Albany

let

us

and

the railroad It commences Schenectady.

return

to

bet^en
in

the middle of the city, close to the Hudson River, and ascends the eminence on which the Capitol stands, with an inclination of one foot
in eighteen, until you

is

one

hundred

and

which reach the summit, eighty-five feet above the

level of the water.

tinues afterwards in the proportion

The

gradual

descent

con

for several of
one

miles, but

only

in two

hundred

and

twenty-five

feet; and, almost

after having

ascended you
ar

subsequently,

imperceptibly,
near

rive at last at the elevation

Schenectady,
the

three

hundred

and

thirty-five feet above

Hudson.
Thp country,

excepting
a

what

hitherto destitute of interest, it derives now and then from

well cultivated farm, and exhibiting only deserts of sand, now different ap a assumed The most pearance. smiling landscape pre sented itself to the eye
:

the immense

Erie

Canal

wound

through

luxuriant

prairies,

fields,and

groves, and

boats

were

drawn

in

SCHENECTADY.

267
on

rapid

succession

by trotting- horses

each

side. Schenectady, with its University, Union College (annually attended by about two hundred wide

students),and
River,

the

beautiful

and

the through which runs town, the contributed not a littleto enhance At a distance, enve beauty of the picture.
loped in
a

Mohawk

dark

mist,

appeared

chain

of

mountains,

called which, if I mistake not, was Heidelberg, but is in fact only a continuation The declivity from of the Catskill Mountains. hun this elevation to the canal is about one dred and fifteen feet, and very steep, so that it would be impossible to descend without the
assistance

of

some

the velocity of the provided for by the agency in motion a sets which round which
was runs a

counterbalance, This carriage.

checking has been

of a steam-engine, horizontal wheel,

rope.
our

this rope
other

strong fastened to
a

One

end of

again
ran
on

to
a

waggon

coach, and the filled with stones,

on
on

which
we

were

railroad close to that The travelling. ropes ran

which
iron
at

pulleys, placed in the middle of the certain distances from each other.
as

roads
As

soon

the
a

engine

was

put down

in motion,

our

coach

took

sudden
not

start

although

propelled

the steep railroad, either by horses or by

268

RAILROAD

TO

SARATOGA.

We engineer. half way loaded the solitary waggon, the hill with the stone, which ascended
steam,

without

driver

or

met

with
same

velocity that
when

we

descended
at

; and

our

coach,

arrived

the

foot

of

the
were

elevation,

immediately. stopped Schenectady. Without

from
one

We

then

in

making coach

any stay, I moved

at
on

once

and set off The just-finished railroad to Saratoga. try through

exclusively less pleasant

to another,

the

coun

which
of sand,

it passes

consists

almost

although
Albany less than
to

and five miles

renders this trip varied than the former ; but,

which

longer

than

that

from

Schenectady,

it cost

the company
to statements

shown road

According the other. to me, the Mohawk and

Hudson

is said to have cost not less than hundred dollars ; thousand eight to nine was at completed whereas, that to Saratoga
an

rail from

expence

not

seventy former

thousand
were,

exceeding dollars.

two

hundred
shares

and of the

The
lower

of the latter.
mer

nevertheless, In the course

than

those
sum no

of the three August, and five hundred

on

months, than

June,

July,

fewer

thirty thousand travelled and

and

sixty-five persons Saratoga between

the

railroad

Schenectady.

BALLSTON

SPA.

269 is Ballston

About

six miles

from

Saratoga

only for village, like Saratoga, known the properties of its waters, which are highly The beneficial in many place complaints.

Spa,

itself has

opinion
virons

attractive, but nothing far superior to Saratoga. places consist

is in my

The

en

of both

of nothing

but

a scanty plains and hills of sand, producing dark pine trees, the only produc crop between tions of the vegetable kingdom which appeared

to thrive in that soil.

Saratoga

has, neverthe

less, on
age

account
to

of the preference
it by

and

patron

given

the such

capricious

goddess

Fashion,
are

acquired

who name of Ballston, the place itself.

At

found

celebrity, that many of the certainly have heard

but

know

nothing

about

these watering places there are several to the hotels, whose charges vary according of fashion and the class of visiters. prevalence Hence guests,
arises
a

certain

distance between

the

with except associate seldom who Here, hotel. living in the same boarders
more

than

elsewhere,

may

be

discovered

the

distinction that really prevails among persons I heard, for of different classes in America. instance,
on

various

occasions,

individuals, Hall,

boarding

at the

fashionable

Congress

270

SARATOGA.

speak
ters

of those who at the Union,

had
or

taken

up their quar

United

States

Hotel,

in

way

presumed

clearly indicated their own This superiority in point of rank.

which

aristocratic

tendency
or

in

Republican

States
it is, that ridiculous in

may

be condemned

not ; certain

exorbitant extravagance causing by the

prices, combined
in dress, have

with

jointly succeeded

Congress

Hall hotel to be frequented

in the Union. first company In the in particular, people resort of August, month to it from the South and from the North ; all

who

can

lay
are

claim

to

beauty, here.
of

genius, They

and
not

talents, repair

to be

found

do
"

hither it. Their

for the

sake

health
and labour

far

from faces great

are

sparkling they Those do

eyes
not

smiling under

prove

that

infirmity.

who,

unfortunately,
at

real invalids, take up

their residence

more

quiet hotels, seldom mingling with those Most who are in possession of good health. here met say that with of the individuals " to drink the water," that is, they come
to
"

take

particular

object
a

glass every other is amusement, When

day." and

Their
to

kill

time in every possible way.

arrive at
a

such visiters

watering
of
course,

matter

as place, extravagance, its climax, and reaches

SARATOGA.

271 in

they
ture.

try to

surpass
have

each

other

expendi

The

fair

sex

here

of displaying* their taste and to advert I shall not venture

cut

fine opportunity elegance in dress.

to the studied

of the coats
as

and
are

waistcoats

of the beaux, last patterns

fashioned from

they
or

after the

London

Paris.
a

The

most

fashiona

ble ladies have the process

peculiar

of drinking

for dress, adapted kind of a the water,

demi-neglige,
breakfast,
or
a

a a

driving,
fifth and

for the ceremony of another third for the recreation of riding fourth for display at dinner, and
at
a

last for exhibition which

be

concert

or

ball in the evening,

concludes

the day.

Health

appears

to

the last consideration.

On

rising in the morning, the prevailing rule is to devote the whole day to eating, sleeping, and
or

the display

of dress ; and

when

evening,

rather midnight, arrives, they retire to rest, an agreeable got over satisfied with having
soiree
"

young

ladies dreaming

of

the

con

quests they fancy they have made, and which they calculate will be followed up by a matri
monial

alliance in the ensuing

winter

; young

dandies, again, delighted with the figure they have made, and some chance witticisms which have been they have which uttered, and

272

COMPANY

AT

SARATOGA.

graciously belles.
But,
us
once

and

smilingly
bid

received

by

the

before
more

we

adieu
drink

to

Saratoga,
and
"

let
a

visit the

springs,

take

review
waters."

of those

who

the

wholesome

Who

is that

handsome

with
near

rosy cheeks, approaches

lady, who, the iron railing

the

the spring, and with a feeble voice asks little boy standing inside for a glass of

water?

She is from

New

York,

having

visited

Saratoga
an

four successive

inward

disease which

years, to get cured of define, no person can

and which, strange enough, itself in different forms and

every year symptoms.

shows

What

extraordinary and beneficial effect the water has upon her ! In the fall, she resumes all the frivolities and pleasures of the city, dan
cing, and happy;
a

her heart to

for she has already given swain, who has promised, before

Not the end of winter, to offer her his hand. far from her stands a man in the prime of life,with a goblet to his mouth is pale, : he but it is not a sickly paleness ; he is silent, but itis not suffering that imposes this silence.

With
water

what
! with

delight does he drink the brackish

what devotion does he empty the last drop ! He appears almost to bless the that gift of Heaven, water, and at last takes

COMPANY

AT

SARATOGA.

273 field, the

re

his departure
sort

to

neighbouring

of cattle

and

and

philosophize. watery, fish-blooded young

a

to ruminate musquitoes, He is one of the "cold,

men,

incapable

of

glass

or

two,"*

who, of
means,

foolishly
or

enough,

either from want of a debilitated

excellent

in consequence constitution, has joinedan

but nothing water, and wages war against wine and brandy. How he it, poor fellow, this ice-cold, society, which

drinks

enjoys

clear, and
structive

medicinal beverage lesson to contemplate

It is

an

in

his contented

face.

his philosophical equally ravings instructive? Know that the individual is a genius, which
who have has been
written

Are

many

romances,

printed

and

admired

by

contemporary

authors. This bustling, noisy, and talkative who makes wry faces at every drop he
to

man, seems

force down

"

who and

is he? in

Philadelphia

is

his

birthplace,

New

York

he
"

has

a the rudiments of his education is a better judge of a bad perfect fool ! None

received

can none vapid novel ; and excel him in the knowledge of the history, He qualities, and fortune, of every lady.
a

tragedy,

or

pretends
*

to labour

under
an

some

serious

irifir-

Vide "Crayon
II.

Sketches, by

Amateur,"

vol. i. p. 65.
T

VOL.

274

COMPANY

AT

SARATOGA.

mity,

and tells every young- lady, smilingly, that his disease consists in continual heart He of the heart. aches, in an enlargement
in the world, that he has only one enemy is morning*, too early, always which coming and on which, before rising from bed, he in

says

variably
tives.
on as

bestows That

certain

the waters

quantity of invec have very little effect

matter
one

his constitution

is not
more

of surprise,

he

never

takes
a

than

diately

after

hearty

glass imme He breakfast. com

plains of being poorly. But who is that original,

water,

who,
a

despising
of

always swearing

appears
at

with

glass

ju

lep,*

frighten he
be has

to as thing, so every in the South, Born the old ladies? from been to infancy accustomed

attended
moment,

by

slaves,

and

forgets
all

himself
the free
are

every

thinking
servants
to

that

and

independent
who ought

in the

house

slaves,

his
dress
size

commands
is composed

at

and understand first signal. the

summer

obey His
in
a

of

trousers,
a

resembling

those

of

Turk,

and

jacketof
*

the

same

stuff, the sleeves of which

Julep is a favourite beverage, particularly in Virginia, where It is a it is as palatable to women to men, as old and young. ice-wrater,and mint ; is very cooling, and gene rum, of compound taken in bed, before rising. rally

QUALITY

OF

THE

WATERS.

275

are

regular

bishop's

sleeves.

With

face

covered
to the
no

with
A

hair, he stares
terror

at the

company, of the

small

and
out

annoyance

tree, of an orange and called the snake-killer, is likewise an ob ject such terror, that none of the fair sex of

ladies.

stick, cut

dared

approach

him. by
"

He

was, men,

however,

con

stantly surrounded the favourite he advocated

a

subject,
the
cause

discussed who Nullification." Alone,

of South

Carolina,
of his field to

with

warmth
to

which
give

opponents

compelled way, leaving

many the

But whither am the champion of the South. I wandering ? A volume would hardly suffice to depict the different characters I had occa sion to observe

during
:

residence

of

few

days

at

Saratoga

but this is not

my

inten

tion ; therefore, peace present ! The

water

be with

them

for the

at these springs

contains

great

proportion of soda and magnesia, mixed with chalk, iron, gas, and atmospheric air. This by a Doctor Steel, analysis has been made who
on

has
the

published
"

very

interesting

work

water

work,

of the in his at all these springs," he remarks is nearly the same, varying only from

subject.

The

temperature

"

forty-eight to fifty-two degrees of Fahrenheit's

T

276

QUALITY

OF

SARATOGA

WATERS.

thermometer, variation
ture

and
from
air.

is

subject to
in the

very

little

the

changes

tempera
seem

of the

The
any

different effect for

on

seasons

to have
water."
as,

hardly
Its

the

quantity

of

property

various
so

disorders,
common

for

instance,

dyspepsia, by
none

in

America,

is questioned

on

the

con

trary, it is
consumptions,

in injurious

liver complaints
several

and

and

has, upon
resorted

occasions,

when

imprudently

to, accelerated

the

dissolution

of the patient.

CHAPTER

X.

Ja wohl, bin ich

nur

ein Wanderer

"

ein Waller

auf derErde

!"

GOETHE.

ON

returning
a

to Schenectady,
on

I availed

my

self of

canal-boat These
low,

the
are

point

of starting

for Utica. long, bridges which

with but

boats

generally
of the

very many

in consequence
across

thrown

the They

canal,
are

beneath

they
two

must

pass.
one

fitted up

rooms,

inside

the other, taking

up

the whole
on

length
the

of the boat,

with
room was

small

windows longed

sides.

The

inner

be
con

exclusively
as
a

to the ladies, and

sidered dared
used

sanctuary

into which
outer
one

the profane again bed the

was
room

not

set foot ; the

as a

both

drawing,

dining, and
"

for the
now
"

gentlemen.

When
of

as

was

case

the and
sex,

number the

travellers

exceeded
to

thirty,
stronger

majority
prospect

belonged
of

the
on

the

remaining

278

STEAMBOAT

ANNOYANCES.

board
able.
sit, or
out

twenty-two

hours

was

not

very agree
to

It

was

impossible

either
upon
to

walk, deck
number
was

to

to lie.

Moving

about

of the question,

owing
we

the
to

of

bridges

beneath
passage

which
it became

had

every

whole company ing swept away

As
soon
as

necessary flat, to avoid be to lie down by the beams of the bridge. approached
one,

pass ; at for the

we

which

hap
called the for

pened
"

every Bridge

five minutes,
!" and
at

the steersman the

It
same was

out,

instant ludicrous

company
a

fell prostrate.

; in the while to take part in this manoeuvre however, it became long run, wearisome, and
no

other

alternative
of change,

was

left but

to go

down,
narrow

by way
cabin.

into the close and

Night
fortable.

made

our

situation stillmore

uncom

tiers of beds, one above another, had been fitted up on the sides, insufficient; the floor their number proved Had I been was mattresses. covered with

Although

three

permitted

to

select

sleeping

place, I should

have preferred a mattress on unquestionably the floor, for the beds on the sides were only slung by a cord to the top : had that given way
the whole

sleeping apparatus
to

would
; arid

have the

been
conse-

precipitated

the

ground

AN

UNPLEASANT

BIRTH.

279
from

quences

might

have

been of the

serious,

the

corpulence of some fortunately, nearly

myself. ing* to
was

travellers.

Un idea
as

all had
a

the

same man,

The

captain,

peaceable
one,

wish
that
it

accommodate
in his power

every
to

saw
so,

not

do

except

by

drawing ber with

lots for the births.

a

I drew

trembling
to

hand,
of the
now

and

my num behold ! it beds

on
:

turned

out

be

one

lowest

the side.

The

prospect

darkened

indeed

to lie down,

having

two

other births occupied only supported by no means prospect

by heavy by small
enviable.
no

inmates

above,
a

and

cords, was But what

chance

was

to be done

I had place, deck ;

other

but quietly to take

to

my
on

unless

I chose

spend

the

night

and this was stillmore owing to objectionable, a heavy the following rain which continued till I thought it prudent, however, to morning.
enter

into

convention regions,

with

the

occupants that they that,

of the

upper
remain

stipulating

should
if
a

quiet in their births, and

of

change

position

became
me

absolutely beforehand

necessary,

they

should
to

inform

of their intention, sibility lay me of

a

against guard Immediately accidents.

man,

the pos
above

young

who,

by

his reserved

and

strange

behaviour,

had

already

attracted

280

NOCTURNAL

ALARM*

my

attention

; and

above
man,

him whose

rested

an

ex

cessively corpulent
more room

frame

took

up

than

was

allotted to two.
was

The picious

beginning- of the night

:

rather
to

aus
un

I already

felt reconciled

my

pleasant listening

situation,
to

and

amused

myself from

by
the

the

different

sounds,

finest tenor from the

my

to the strongest

snoring

against

gentry. side of the boat

the

bass, proceeding A sudden thump

consternation

shock,
too

among by occasioned
to
ours, was

spread The travellers.

craft

at length

another
so

coming the

close

violent, that

beams About

flew the doors cracked, and a dozen sleeping individuals were

from

open.
pre
on

cipitated

the

second who

and
were

third tier
lying
on

the unfortunate floor.

beings cord

the

One
had
The

Snoring
room. were

after another. way gave filled the ceased : lamentations

ladies rushed shoving

a

in among against
noise
at

us.

All other, dark

:

running,

each
in the

swearing,
confusion,

and making in short,

was a

its height, until

the

captain

had

made

favourable

report,
were

which
soon

restored

tranquillity.

The

births

The young man who was re-occupied. to his did not, however, me return above a I perceived birth. that, without saying

HISTORY

OF

BACKWOODSMAN.

281

word,
not

he

come

engage
wrapped

deck ; and, as he did gone on I followed, with a view back, to I found him him in conversation. had
in
a

cloak, seated appeared calm

on
:

trunk.

His
an

countenance

it almost

indifference for the whole world. an nounced It was with difficulty that I prevailed upon him to speak ; and not till I had made several
ineffectual attempts the following
"

am

son

give me biographic sketch of himself: of one of the first settlers in the

I
was

did he at length

State

of Missouri. My
not
one

brought
was
a

up
'

in the

wilderness.
woodsman,'

father

real

Back indivi
on

of those

lawless

duals,

expelled the Atlantic No

; he
was

from

civilized have

society,

whom
title.

States
one

conferred

this
most

of the
men,

mildest,

upright,
can

most

virtuous

that

this earth
emigrated
a

produce.

He

had

voluntarily

to

this part, for the

purpose

of cultivating
a

richer soil, and

accumulating

littleproperty, His
manners

for the benefit of his children.

were,

perhaps,

rather blunt, but his roughness Dressed

in
a

offended

nobody.
a

bear
a

or

deer
on

skin, with shoulder,

knife in his bosom, always

gun

his

by a accompanied couple of dogs, he had nothing in his appear But, if ance a that prepossessed stranger. and

282

HISTORY

OF

BACKWOODSMAN.

you

visited his cot, in

to

case

of necessity,

or

ap

pealed
was

his generosity, his hospitality, he This in assisting you. not behindhand

he added,
"of my

is the picture,"

father, and
His planta

of every tion
was

real

Backwoodsman.

about St. Genevieve,

fiftymiles from the small town on the river Mississippi, and

tract of land, consisted of a rather extensive which he had cleared and cultivated himself,

and In
a

raised word,

to
our

three-fold family
was

the

original

value.

happy,

wealthy,

and

contented. far from "Not

a

us

was race

settlement,
men nor
an

occu

pied

chiefly by neither Americans,

mixture
met

of

French,
latter,

were who Indians, but

of the two with

in

often strange

the
never

amalgamation States ; Western the

case

enough and

it is

between preserve

Americans
none

Indians.

These

men

have
races.

qualities, but of their original native all the faults, frailties,and vices, of both
They
are

of

copper

colour,

exces

sively indolent, but easily offended

; and,

their
to

passions them.

once

excited,
ideas

nothing

is sacred

virtue and ele of manly man a of soul consist in making wild vation The strongest champion and impious being.
is their idol, and

Their

the most

horrible oath

their

HISTORY

OF

BACKWOODSMAN.

283

admiration.

One

stood, at that he tion, because received bespoke

a

who of these demi-savages time, highest in their estima

"

had
"

always

given but

never

mined one Impelled by spread

in

eyes only giant, whose deter thirst for blood and murder, day to set fire to my father's wood.
a

blow

strong northerly wind, the flames To few hours in all directions.

was

stop their progress

impossible

to prevent

their reaching out of human by

the

the dwelling-house power.

was
on

equally
all sides

Surrounded
element, my

devouring fled from

in

unfortunate

parents children and

was

the
arms,

spot, with
over

their little
moss,

their

between
almost
no

burning
miraculous.
in

trees.

My

escape father, however, the

smoking Their

lost

time

arraigning tribunal

incendiary

before the proper

no

; but, alas ! he had

proofs to adduce.

Finding
a

it impossible
moment

to

or obtain justice redress, in he repaired to the residence

of rage

of the suspected personal Too revenge.

person, determined him found He at

to

to take

home.

honourable

commit
as

murder,

him,

is customary
was

father my in the West.

The place
on

challenged The chal

of meeting the banks from of
the

lenge
was

accepted.
on a

fixed

high

ground,
sixty

the

Mississippi,

about

miles

284

HISTORY

OF

BACKWOODSMAN.

junction of
spot

this stream
the right

with

the

Ohio.

The

lies

on

shore, and

rises, in the

hundred one and about of a pyramid, It has fifty feet above the level of the water. On its summit a been called the Tower.
shape
few it, on

cedars

are

seen

growing.
a

Opposite
exca

to

the Illinois side, is

in
a

remarkable
^feet by the

vation
surface

rock,

one
:

hundred
it goes

from
name

the

of the water

of

the Devil's Oven.

"

Under

the

combatants

shade of these cedars, the two Their never met. rifles, which
at each other's aimed fired, and for a moment the
were

yet had breast.

two

missed, They

duellists

were

enveloped
from
rock

in smoke.
to

The
the

resounded silence of death echo

rock,

and

again
was

filled the the

only

valleys.
victim.

My The

unhappy ball had

the
seen

father

Lifeless he lay at pierced his heart. An feet of his foe. affected smile was
on

the

lips of the

conqueror

; and,

not

insult to in satisfied with his deed, he added jury,by throwing the corpse down the rock. Thus became the bottom of the Mississippi the sepulchre

of virtue ; and the only dirge

"

curses
was

on

the
sung

murderer!

"

which

at the funeral
"

of my

father.
"

was

now

fatherless

soon

after I lost

HISTORY

OF

BACKWOODSMAN.

285

my
was

mother.
sent

By

the

charity

of

relation, I
scene,

far away

from

the murderous
in
one

finished my education States. Nothing England

and
me

of the New

could
: an
me
as a

prevail

on

to

remain
to

there long made

ardent
soon

desire to
leave

return

the West

my

benefactor.
rest

It seemed performed had

if I could

never

till I had

where my father of the incendiary and

spot

to that pilgrimage fallen by the hand

the murderer.
the

I have

with

pleasure

accepted
on

appointment

of

missionary

to regions

the other side of the

to God

Mississippi, my
way
I asked
ture.
'*

and,

thanks

am

now

on

thither." him

what

his plans
to my

were

for the fu
as
a

I will attend

duty

mission

ary, "answered for

a man

he.

"

I do not dread

the future ;
as

cannot

last long, suffering he

rose

I do."

On
a

finishing these words,

to conceal

few tears

that

were

rolling down

his cheeks,

and

in the fore-part of to a corner proceeded he remained tillwe arrived at the boat, where dared disturb his deep medita None Utica.
nor

tions,
to.

would appeared
even

he

He

if spoken answered in thought, and absorbed

have

continued,

after
state.
to

landing,

in

the

same

contemplative
persuade

I tried several
a

times

to

him

stay

day

at

Utica,

and

286

CANAL

BOATS.

afterwards
ties
were

proceed with he was vain

"

me

; but

my

intrea-

immoveable.
minutes,

After

in town a remaining board his passage on

few
a

he

took
to

canal-boat

bound

Buffalo. impossible

Since

that time, it has been for

me or

totally

either

any
to

sengers gence
man.

on

board

the boat

of the pas obtain intelli young

of the fate of this unfortunate

To

travel by canal-boats The

is at all times

te

dious experiment.
they

country
any

through
other

which

variety than that offered by the locks, in lowering or Their hardly progress, raising the boats. the smooth surface, produces perceptible, over horses, which The inclination to sleep. an of their usual pull the boat, rarely go out
trot.

pass

seldom

possesses

Even

the steersman

bore the general

as

opened his mouth, pect of drowsiness ; he never duty required him to call out, except when I abhor the Bridge !" An oath, although practice, would at least have kept the eyes of
"

the travellers open

as

for

few minutes, and

fatigued crowd.
from
mo was

they

were

by

heat

the

great
observed

Of

all the

landscapes

I had however, places

canal-boats,
notonous.

this
In

was,

the least
scenery for

some

the
canal,

truly

picturesque.

The

many

LITTLE

FALLS.

287

miles,

wound

through

small

wood,

on

the

side of a rising ground, at the foot of which lay a fertile and smiling valley, intersected by

Mohawk the
The from

river, at canal
stream
runs

short
almost

distance

from

which
edly.

uninterrupt

is

now

and

then

con

cealed again,
picture
nature.

sight ; but

when

it shows

itself
a

it is with

redoubled
richest

beauty,
most

amidst

of the

and

cultivated

At

sunrise

the

arrived at a place are spots in America

would
be
a

morning, called Little Falls.

so

following

we

Few
:

romantic
even

as

this

it

of subject A

admiration

in Swit

zerland.
cuts

chain

of the

Catskill Mountains
river, which,
to

straight through arrested in its course,

narrow

Mohawk

is obliged

seek

over the ridge, from which it passage precipitates itself,roaring and foaming, into a

stony
wild

valley.
scene was

The

first view

I had

of this

truly

magnificent.

pro

jectingmountain
thing
until

the

seeing any prevented my boat was close to the Falls.

was one
a

On
ance

the left side

huge

wall,

in appear
another.

resembling
rocks
are

rock very

piled upon singular, and

are

The
most

here

being

al

perpendicular, with uneven sides ; in the crevices, which

smooth
incon-

not

288

SCENERY

NEAR

LITTLE

FALLS.

a great quantity of trees of siderable, grow various kinds, which spread their rich branches over

the apertures, the whole. To

and

give

darker

to

the right

again

aspect rushed, in the the

between detached stones, wild confusion, after the Fall ; and, on river, still foaming,

a wall of rocks, as sterile other side of it rose as that which follows the course of the canal.

Before the

me

boat

appeared forty feet

an

the five locks that raised

"

further,

the Fall
"

itself,

through
lage of

excavation

in the rock
not
across

the vil
"

Little Falls, aqueduct

and

far distant the

and,
a

finally, the

stream,

handsome
ship.
In

ornamental

piece of workman

the I had

cool

of the

which
could

traversed

morning, lay behind

the
me

valley
I

; there

still discern

fertile fields, orchards,

of the canal twenty
to

and
con

mansions.

The
a

water

is here

ducted
high,

over

wall, from

thirty feet
con

the

foundation
by

of which

is kept
From

stantly wet boat side the of

the running

river. follow
to
a

the

eye
this

may
wall

easily down

the

straight
sur

the

rocks,
of

rounded

by foam.
on

What

variety It

sensa as

tions crowd

the

traveller !
a

seems

if

he

were

himself

sailing in
the tempests

mild and

and

genial
of

latitude, above

passions

LONG

LEVEL.

289

the

earth.

He

hears
roar

the

noise

behind He

the dis

mountains
covers

like the

of thunder.

the spray

arising* from

tween

the

reach
which

restless elements His soul is raised him.

the conflict be ; but it does not

to

regions

the pestiferous vapours of the earth He is a reno seldom permit him to behold. vated being, with nobler sentiments, purer intentions, and loftier ideas.
After place,

having

spent

few

hours

at

this

I continued journey,and soon my Level, a vast plain, sixtyarrived at Long ex nine miles and a half in length, which
tends by
a as

far

as

Salina, and

is not

interrupted
It is

single lock in the whole distance. the largest plain along the whole canal.

Of all the States

more

in the Union,

none

has
New
by

communications

by

water

than

York.
them,
ever

is so country that there is scarcely

remote,

The

intersected
a

district, how
profit by
to

that

may

not

the
the

canals

for the

transport

as great markets, such Albany, York. and New canals, the great P]rie Canal

of produce Rochester,
But, of

Utica,
all the

occupies

the first
Erie

place.
with

It unites

the

waters

of Lake

those

of the Hudson, miles in

is three

hundred
and has

and
VOL.

sixty-three
II.

length,
U

290

ERIE

CANAL.

of granite. eighty-four locks, all constructed It begins at Albany, where it is five hundred Erie, and and sixty-five feet lower than Lake terminates
at

Buffalo.

The

elevation
are

and

altogether and ninety-eight feet. The canal six hundred It is forty feet in width, and four feet deep.

decline

from

both extremities

genius Clinton, that New

is to

the

of

the

immortal
is indebted

de

Witt

York

for this

national monument, conceived and completed It was by his activity and perseverance. begun on the 4th July, 1817, and finished in October,
1825.

The

State, which

had

un

dertaken
as
a

the execution

Lake
ten

canal Erie,*

between incurred

of this work, as Champlain Lake

a

well

and

debt of not and

seven

less than

million, two

hundred
and

thousand,
dollars, of

three

hundred

twenty-eight

thousand, nine million, twenty-seven which four hundred and fifty-sixdollars, five cents, for the Erie Canal, or about twentywere

three
one

thousand

nine

hundred
mile.

and

sixtyex-

dollars

for each

The

annual
is very

pence

of keeping

it in

repair

con

in to its being constructed siderable, owing too great a hurry, and sufficient attention not being paid to its solidity ; the revenue, never''

This canal is sixty-three miles in length.

UT1CA

291

the expenditure, exceeds that, in the course of a few years, the whole debt will be liquidated. In the year 1822,

theless,

so

much

only portions of it were ready, the re both forwarded on ceipt for tolls on goods to forty-four thousand, four canals amounted when hundred
cents
one
:

and
in

eighty-six dollars, seventy-two the year 1832, it had risen to

one

million,

hundred hundred
The

and

thousand, twenty-nine
sent

eight

and
goods
were,

ninety-five four dollars, principally

to
a

cents.

by this conveyance furnished me, statement

according

timber, staves,

flour,

wheat, butter, stone, iron, and ashes. The day after my departure from Schenectady, I arrived at Utica, a small but flou

New the canal. rishing town, situated near houses spring up every day, and the wide filled with loaded streets, constantly wag unequivocally the prosperity of In a description lately published the place. author of the Falls of Trenton, the immortal
gons,
prove

gives

the

following picture

of Utica

"

The

of this region, an internal great thoroughfare of emporium of business, with a population !*' manners and courteous cultivated minds The
*

town
Vide
"

has

received

considerable

acces-

Description of Trenton

Falls," by J. Sherman,
U

p. 3.

292

TRENTON

FALLS.

sion in population, and, for a while, contested the supremacy new with Rochester among

places
palm

on

the

canal, but it has

to its rival. In the year

ceded the 1813, it counted

now

hundred seven only one thousand in 1830, eight thousand three twenty-three.
Fifteen brated miles from

inhabitants

hundred

and

Trenton

thither, although America. A traveller who is fortunate enough to arrive in safety at the place of his destina having been upset, or his car tion, without

this place are the cele Falls. The leading road in of the worst short, is one

fast in bottomless riage having stuck mudholes, is ungrateful indeed if he does not his lucky stars. Several parties vi thank
time that 1 did. sited the Falls at the same Their broken begrimed faces vehicles and fully confirmed the general opinion entertain

ed of the danger ceeding

The
river

and

unpleasantness

of pro

by this route.
Falls called
of

Trenton

are

situated

on

West
miles

Canada
from number
its

Creek,

about

twenty-three Mohawk
to

junction writh

River.

The
several

of Falls amounts

six, besides

separately
selves.

taken,

small divisions, which, form Falls of them would

between

The

distance

the uppermost

TRENTON

FALLS.

293
miles ; but, if the

and

the lowest
from

is about

two

descent the

Conrad
found

the upper to that below, called it into account, Fall, is taken

will be

that

the
an

whole
extent

range
of not

in the river include five miles, and and

are

of Falls less than hundred

eighty-seven From the hotel

close wood,

altogether three feet in elevation.

is
a

pathway
to steps

through
on

small of
a

leading
one

steep rock, about

hundred

the side feet from

in the valley below. the surface of the water imposing The banks have a most appearance. They
consist

of
one

two

almost

rocks,

about

hundred
within
a

perpendicular feet high, which

narrow

confine the stream pass. presents

part of

very

com

What

grand

and

coup majestic

d'cdil

itself to

this

the visiter from the lower The two rock- walls, valley !
to

which

appear

surround

the place
seem

on

all

sides, without leaving an outlet, The from the world. man rate
grow of the
on

to sepa

trees,

the summit,
; but the
sun

are

tinged by

which the beams

sun

itselfdoes not penetrate The

to the regions

below.

objectsin
even

faint

darkness.

shade involves all Thunder shakes

the

foundation

stream ments

meanders of

of the earth ; and the frag between tremblingly

and suspended

disjointed rocks

294

TRENTON

FALLS.

branches,

and

is gone

one

knows

not

whither.

On
now

the stranger millions of petrified animals directs his steps ; his contemplations

recall the times when these species of animated him full of life and motion as as were nature self.
A

trifle is sufficient to

reduce

him they
now

to

that state
are.

of insensibility in which

slippery piece of rock or a leaf is all that is required to frustrate plans, schemes of and
Poor
man,

pride. nificant art thou ! ambition,

crooked small and places formed by nature,
A

how

insig

pathway,
in others
a

in

some

carved

out

of the solid rock, led me to by the name of Sherman's.

feet high, and

Fall, which goes It is thirty-three

conse

formed

at this period, in

quence
stream

of continual

rains,

single undivided

from

one

shore

to the other.

Below
off
a

the

Fall, the the

little to tional

to draw appeared left, but only to receive water

addi
waves

impulse,

and

dash

its foaming

against

rocks projecting
these, it rudely

rising seeks

on
an

Beyond

right. issue from

the

the valley.
Above this Fall

the stream which,

has

great
upon
a

masses

of stones,

collected heaped one

another,

form

in the middle

of the water
whenever

kind

of tower,

ready

to crumble

TRENTON

FALLS.

295
too
a

the At

mass

of water
of

shall become
a

the distance

few paces,

powerful. fine view of

It has

the other
three
one

large

different

presents itself. divisions, altogether

A

Fall

about

hundred
are

feet.

bare

rock, from

which

fragments
over

annually

broken

off, is the wall The

which

the stream

seeks the valley.

on one of the water underminingside of it is stated to be so considerable, that the eye in a can easily discern the effect produced

short time.
particularly

The

western
:

corner

is the point of

attacked

here

the re-action
the

the

waves
a

has

undermined

walls,
ten

and feet

formed

circular excavation,

about

in diameter.

rock, and with the

Close to this, I climbed up the found myself in a parallel direction

exactly
steam

stream,

above
as

the
a

excava

tion, whence

issued

from

boiling-

kettle.

The
as

heightened surrounding their heavy

"

sunshine gave it a magic effect, it was by the contrast with the landscape.
Here

cedars

bend
stream

branches

over

the foaming

there piles of stones defy the power of the hill Here waves. again smiles a verdant few scat Here a there roars the waterfall.
"

tered
constant

and

diminutive
state

bushes
"

are
on

kept

in

of humidity

the summit
trees

of the rocks, again,

sun-burnt

struggle

296

TRENTON

FALLS.

with

death.

This

is,in my

opinion, the finest

Fall at Trenton.

A been

few

yards
as
a

above
retreat
as

it,

small

cot

has

built,

and
a

strangers, crystals

as

well

resting place for spot for the sale of

to

and

petrifactions
I found

amateurs

of

mineralogy.
were

there several parties, who enjoyingthe fine prospect of the Falls,

of the mine with the vender were rals for the lowest price : the stones all and
in imitation
sat
a

bargaining

of diamonds.
man,

Alone clothes
were

at

table

young had

whose

drippingthe
same

wet

; he

shortly

before

taken

walk

that

I did, but

false step, and

yards
gular

above
good
on

one

a made unfortunately fallen into the river, about ten of the higher Falls. By sin

fortune, he floated against

heap

of stones and
was

the

verge

of the
no

precipice itself,
small surprise

thus
one

saved,

to the

of every
so

heat after To restore present. he now had recourse a bath, extraordinary tankard, and held
at
a

to the

it unremittingly

to

his lips, laughing whole his

were,

the

incident, The

as

if the

had

been

farce.

looks

and however,

the

paleness

of expression of his cheeks

little in harmony

with

this

assumed

indifference to life. other Falls exhibited

a

The

feature different

GENEVA.

297

from

that which locality

was same

I have
not
so

justbeen
confined

describing.
as

The

before,

but lost,at the

already pro duced by the sight of the first Falls, I stopped to the hotel, delighted, short, and returned yes, highly delighted, with the scene I had been contemplating. I started on the following morning Utica
for Auburn.

which had so much Fearful of losing the impression

time, that wild appearance in the others. me charmed

which

from

The

the small towns of New Yernon, Oneida, Lenox,

cuse.

road passed through Hertford, Manchester,

Chitteningo, and Syra

of youth

All bore the stamp the

and

activity ;
most

but

last, in particular,

appeared

flourishing, owing the immediate

to the salt mines

situate in
amount

vicinity.

The

annual

of the article made than

one

in these parts

is not

less

to

million and a half of bushels. I remained At Auburn only time enough I have already visit the prison, of which in another place, and
a

spoken my

then

continued

journeythrough
to

fine and

well-cultivated
two

country, villages beauty,

Geneva

celebrated and

Canandaigua, and for their neatness

as on

and
for

any
near

other.

might serve which The firstis situated end

of Seneca

models
a

declivity
and

the north

Lake,

fol-

298

CANANDAIGUA.

lows mile.

the

course

of the left shore

over

for nearly surface

The

prospect

the calm

of

the

waters,
on

rising

by lofty mountains surrounded both sides of the oblong lake, is I know

not
name

truly magnificent. ther it

was

exactly

whe

the similarity of
or

that excited
of
a

my
mer's

imagination,
evening,

the fineness

sum

full of freshness

and

varied

the ap memory shades, that recalled to my pearance of a lake in Switzerland : this I know,
that American
on

Geneva
even
a

is

one

earth

where

person

of those spots fond of town-

life would

delight to reside. is also situated Canandaigua

of
a

at the extre

mity
are

lake bearing

its name. lines

The

streets

laid out
are

in straight

towards

the

lake, and

embellished

by

white-painted

houses, orchards, walks, and terraces. Many built in so good are and pure a taste, that
they would
prove I cannot ornamental
to

any

town

whatever.

deny
I

that, upon
not

various

subsequent

occasions,

to get a sight wished buildings, as a relief to the monotony of red brick houses, invariably found in every Ame

unfrequently of these fine wooden

rican
not
so

town.

Like
a

Geneva,

Canandaigua
place,
as
a

is
town

much

commercial persons

where

wealthy

take

up

their resi-

ROCHESTER.

299

dence, for the life. Society

purpose has

of

enjoyinga

imbibed gradually Neither fluence of this taste for repose. scandal, so usual in petty towns, sip nor here ; no as current calculations heard
rise
or

quiet the in
gos
was

to

decline in cotton and

were

heard

; political
were

contentions
also
own

intemperate

debates

Every one took care excluded. interfering in the house without

of his
affairs

of his neighbour.

Hospitality

prevailed

every

was always welcome. where ; the stranger General wealth, and satisfaction derived from a

consciousness

that speculation

was

not

the
on

origin

of

acquired

property,

imprinted

a serenity, a degree every countenance of con for in New York, and tent, vainly looked which may otherwise be said to be one of the

World. peculiarities of the New without being a town, possessing

sures

It is

town

all the plea its

and

varieties of
more
a

country,
can

What solitude. Rochester,

though years
but

without be desired ?

town

already

full-grown,

ago

yet in its infancy, which twenty did not exist, but now a counts
of
more

population inhabitants,

than very

thirteen
be

thousand called one The situa

may

properly

of the prodigies of the country. that tion is so very favourable,

the produce

300
of the West, is brought

FLOUR

MILLS.

as

well

as

of the Atlantic

States, the

hither

in transit ; and,

from

Genesee Ontario, to which vicinity of Lake River runs from the town, the inhabitants have the the
most

advantage

of being

able

to choose

Quebec,
the

advantageous New York, or

lakes. exportation,

markets,
towns

such

as on

situated

western

Flour

is the

principal very

article of

of which

large

A single mill produces quantities are made. from four to five hundred barrels a day : by

additional hundred,

exertion,
a

it might

even

yield six

larger

mill in the well

as

United

quantity States.

than These

any

other
as are

mills,

worked
manual
a

for sawing those adapted with facility and great labour, by the abundance

planks, economy
of water

of
"

Be wealth to Rochester. sides the River Genesee, which, as I have said before, runs the Erie Canal through the town,
source

of great

also

traverses

it, crossing

the

stream

by
feet

an

aqueduct, length.
The
"

eight

hundred

and

four

in

inhabitants

are

sect

distinguished

chiefly Presbyterians by the strict observ

ance

of their tenets

Their upon

and regularity of conduct. instances, borders self-denial, in many in, and will, if persevered pedantry,

PRESBYTERIANS.

301 A

lead to the dissolution

byterian believes goes condemns

of the system.

Pres

sectarians, and be saved ; he that their souls cannot

even

all other

farther, he

fail of attending
nous

prays for them. service is considered

can

To
a

hei

offence, which

only

by

long- repentance and the I had once the misfortune others.

"

pardon intercession of
to

obtain

be

absent

from

church
a

during

two

consecutive
to

services,"
me

said
was

man

of liberal sentiments
"

who following

On the settled at Rochester. I was Sunday, not a little surprised

congregation pray for the This is certainly car soul." From to a great length. one
are

to hear

the whole

of my rying fanaticism
salvation

pulpit, execrations

fulminated

on

the

con

gregation

Wrapped

in the next assembled church. up in fanatical delirium, the spiri

tual preachers

forget that all are

brothers

and

Christians, and that the form of worship only but pity these mistaken differs. Who cannot
blind advocates ? Does not that clergy deserve our animadversion man who, from the pulpit, exclaims that his colleague of another
and
sect

other than the Evil Spirit himself Yet this has ac up in a cloak ? wrapped tually taken place in Rochester.
is
no

At

one

extremity

of the town

is the beauti-

302

GENESEE

FALLS.

ful Cenesee
water
runs
a

Fall,
so

ninety

feet
over
can

high.
the

The

that, at

smoothly distance, the eye

The the

precipice,

the motion.
serve

banks
same

hardly perceive below the Fall pre

as

nearly

elevation

above

it ;

the and

left shore being mills, between

steal through.
a

almost mands hood

by houses embellished little waterfalls which The opposite side com

of the whole
a

perfect view
at

neighbour
a

of Rochester

distance, and of

rock,

over covered with verdure, projecting Falls, from which Sam Patch, an eccentric

the
cha

racter,

leaped

into the other

a

for tion

renown,

he abandoned
a

Anxious world. lucrative situa

in

cotton

various falls, to

occasions,

; and, upon manufactory threw himself down water

the

no

small At

terror

the spectators.

Paterson

and surprise of he had already

; but, not of immortality wreath satisfied with it, he precipitated himself with impunity down Niagara.

acquired

"

And
And

here

hero should have stopt, his brilliantfame ; husbanded

our

But, ah, he took one leap too much, And sure most heroes do the same."*

The

last leap
A

he

made

was

from
too
Downing,"

Genesee
un-

Fall, in 1829.
Life and

drop
of

taken

much
p. 239.

Writings

Major Jack

JOURNEY

TO

BUFFALO.

303

fortunately
librium, and whence

deprived
sent

him

of the proper

equi

him headlong
returned.

into the abyss,

he
"

never

The

crowd, with fingers in their mouths, Turn'd homeward, by one ; one

'

And

oft with sheepish looks they said, Poor Sam's last job is done ! "*
'

One
a

morning

I found

canal-boat,
was

bound

myself again on The to Buffalo.

so

board
com

pany

this time

not

numerous,

but

in

agreeable than on the jour every respect more Schenectady to Utica ; yet even from ney here, as in most things, there was a dark side.
A and

dozen

ugly,

offensive, squalling,

restless,

troublesome
a

children
in peace. of

left not

an

indivi
of this little her

dual

moment

The

mother
very

hopeful
about

brood

urchins and

cared

the confusion

uneasiness

which

dear littleones
but devoted

produced

among

the company,

herself with perfect nonchalance On to the occupation of knitting stockings.

the

shoulders

of the

husband

devolved

the

task of attending this unfortunate

as

to his offspring ; and

father

group, buzzing.

indefatigable

swarmed bees, as

round the little

constantly

We

had
Life and

travelled
Writings of

only

few

miles

when

Major Jack

Downing,"

p. 239.

304 the captain

miles
on

JOURNEY

TO

BUFFALO,

informed

us

that the canal,

few

the other side of the village of Brockin, and that there was not port, had broken
sufficient water This
for the

progress
was

of the boat.

piece of intelligence
as no

far from

agree by land

able, inasmuch could

women

accommodation
so

be

found

for

large

number

of

and children, leaving entirely out of the carpet-bags, and trunks, portmanteaus, number.

question bundles,
After
a

bandboxes,

without

great deal of trouble, and as a parti at length cular favour, a kind of vehicle was hung upon springs ; but the de procured,
structive hand

of Time

had made

such springs

serious

havoc be torn

with

it, that

the leather

The body piecemeal. away laid on form one side, of a barrel, which, to the right to left, according rolled from
nature

might had the

of the road ; of the wheels

nothing
a

can

be

said, except

that

they danced

quadrille
con

among veyance,

themselves.
women

Tn this comfortable

together,

and

children were packed left to a kind their fate was and

which
to the

Providence.
mercifully,

Waggons,
were

Jolted most
men.

un

given

few

of

the travellers, before they shook

seated

themselves,

their heads
no

little; but

circumstances

permitted

other choice.

They

started.

JOURNEY

TO

BUFFALO.

305

remained
stowing

alone, wishing of the luggage

no

to

superintend

the

having

springs,

but

another built in one

in

coach,

whole

length, which made Trunks were round.

upon
"

it very

difficult to turn

bags, has

and
ever

who

piled upon trunks, bags bandboxes upon bandboxes heard of ladies travelling
"

without

bandboxes?

and

over

these

hard

cushions a buffalo skin was spread, on which I was invited to sit down. Thus equipped, we
off, exposed to a scorching sun, and en veloped in dust, which often deprived us of light as well as respiration. After travel
set

ling in this

nearly twenty-five miles, we arrived safely at Knowlesville, a village where the canal- boat might be resumed.
manner

Night
on

had

board

Lockport

went arrived, when we again ; and, instead of coming to did not see before dusk, we this

already

place tillthree o'clock on the following morn from examining ing. Darkness prevented me attentively the five locks built here: I was

obliged to content few granite

canal,

myself

with walking
on

up

made steeps,
with the

the sides of the

of
as a

and,
to
at

assistance
as

stick,

trying
When

grope

my way I had length

well

1 could.

lock, about
VOL.
II.

the upper reached I found sixty feet above the basin,

X

306
once,

LOCKPORT.

myself, all at
a

in the middle

village entirely built on and It was a rocks. singular sight to look down from this point on the double row of locks,

of Lockport, by surrounded

built close to each other, dimly lighted with lamps, and in the dark appearing as so many feet flights of steps. lock is twelve Each
wide
is executed the stone-work with much To obviate the possibility of care and taste. the detention of the canal-boats at this place,
:

two

sets

of
one

locks

are

built, by

which

ar

rangement another

boat

is able to ascend,

whilst

descends.
examining laden
to
was
were

This

happened

at the time

I
A

was

their excellent construction. with produce

from the
same

boat,

Ohio,

was

lowered
as

the right, with raised

on

rapidity
lanterns I could fell, the

ours

the left.

The

on

deck

the only mark the

craft

by which
rose
or

perceive

whether

noise of the rushing

water

the voices of the steersmen.

entirely drowning The effect of the

glimmering
walls
was

light

between

the

black

stone

like magic. visit Lockport without

No

traveller

should such
a

witnessing

scene.

From distance

Lockport
of

the
miles,

canal
through
twenty

runs,
a

for

three

tunnel
a

made

in the

rock, about

feet deep,

BUFFALO.

307

most

piece of work. gigantic and wonderful Thence to Buffalo the canal presents nothingAt a village called to the eye. remarkable Black Rock, I first obtained a view of Lake
Erie.

This

small place is situated river, about

on

the left
miles to finish
of the

shore of Niagara from the lake. The the

three

canal harbour occasioned

original plan was here ; but the insecurity

its abandonment, and it dam found necessary to make a was along the shore, to render the passage safe for boats far as Buffalo, where as the canal forms a

junction with
Buffalo is a

Lake

Erie. increasing
course

fine and

bids fair to become, of the

largest

in the

city, which of time, one

places in the interior of the here take leave of the Emigrants country. civilized world, before they start for the im forests in the West. Here, goods, des mense tined for places many

hundred

loaded

and

unloaded.

miles off, are Buildings spring up

Streets are laid out with incredible rapidity. of a size that indicates the anticipations of filled with Stores are future prosperity.
and goods from Paris and Cincinnati, London Magazines Rochester. of fashions are read in any leading as much avidity with as capital in Europe
:

mantua-makers,
x

milliners,
2

308

THE

RIVER

NIAGARA.

and
as
neca

tailors, are
with
us.

Indians dirty

here personages few Se By way a of contrast, here and there : wrapped are seen
as

important

in

blankets, and gaze

they
at

wander

about

the

streets,

all the

extraordinary

have taken place since their which If one infancy. were of these rude beings he thinks of such a goddess as asked what changes Fashion,
by would he not show his contempt, ? himself on his own blanket costume

pluming
From

Buffalo

I proceeded
at

by the stage

to

Niagara,
Niagara,

crossing

Black

Rock

the

river

which unites two large lakes.* ferry-boat, drawn by horses, brought me

the Canada
village which

A
to

side, where

I landed the

at

small

in called Waterloo, Fort Erie was formerly

vicinity of situated. From

course

this place the road

follows

the

of the

Chippewa river, and leads through and Lundy's Lane, two in the last places renowned
war

where

between

battles were fought sanguinary on the English and the Americans, 25th of July, 1814. lies Grand
In the middle

the 5th and

of

the

stream

Island,

which

is

in to seven miles long, and from two breadth. At the northern extremity, the river

twelve

Niagara river is thirty-five miles in length, commences at Lake Erie, and discharges itselfinto Lake Ontario, near Fort Niagara. This is the boundary between Canada and the United States.

AWFUL

STORM.

301)

takes, for
tion, and
current

short distance,
each mile

westerly

direc

with

the

increases.

No
two

boat miles
two

rapidity of the farther ventures

from
miles

than

Chippewa,

the

Falls,

where

the river is nearly

to
one

wide, de

creasing
About wonder,

mile

near

the Falls. this great natural awful storm, in the Ame

seven we were

miles from

such
rican who
tion.

as

overtaken by an is frequently experienced

and

hemisphere, have
T

witnessed have repeatedly

on

of which only those form any concep it can

seen

storms

of

; and Apennines but such a convulsion in Nature as that which I now encountered surpassed my imagination.

terrific nature

the

Alps

clothed in a sable mantle, heavy, that it seemed to rest on so apparently The reflection on the tops of the trees. the
were

The

heavens

stream
as

gave
sea

it

sad and

gloomy
the
waves

colour, such open their of darkness,

"

the

presents when
abysses.
nor

bottomless neither dusk

kind

only now and lightning, visible in every

were
war waging imagination

night, covered the scene then interrupted by flashes

direction,
as

of

if they
It
was

against that

each

other.

not

made

the

atmosphere

feel extremely respiration ;

oppressive,
even

almost

animals

obstructing felt its influence

310

AWFUL

STORM.

"

the

horses

of

the

stage

would

scarcely
atmo
was a

move.

sphere
source

oppressive state of the long time, and a continued

of great annoyance
in
so

This

to

all the persons

crowded
makes
storm
a :

together
travellers

the

coach.

Nothing
a

silent and

as dejected assumes

the most

lively and

talkative
are

serious look, when

his eyes

blinded
as soon one

by
as

lightning.
the
storm

Conversation
became
serious

ceased
"

every

pro
I only the
com

bably

communed the ceased with

perceived thunder
munication

with heavy
for
a

his conscience.

breathing
few seconds. other
was

when All

each

suspended,
was

for the crashing ing, and

of the thunder

deafen

None of the continually increasing. females had, as yet, shown of any symptoms fear, whatever the flashes they felt ; but, when
of lightning
that followed in such rapid
succession

in a blaze, accom all around appeared by awful panied peals of thunder, cries of Our situa heard in the coach. anxiety were tion
was

rendered

still more

disagreeable and

by

the rain pouring trating, without of the coach. under such

a

down

in torrents,

pene

difficulty,the roof and doors Who did not then wish himself

some one

But where was roof? The driver had, on to be found ?

hospitable

AWFUL

STORM.

311

the first appearance

to

of the storm,
house,

been

desired
us

stop

at

the nearest
a

and
; but

assured

it was

at only

short

distance

this short
meant
a

distance,
few

it
;

was so

found
that
was

afterwards,
was

miles

it

not

till the worst

we
we

part
of
a

of the storm

over

that Here The

saw

signs
till by
at

human
weather

habitation.
cleared

waited

the

up.

air became

degrees

lighter

and

cooler ; and

Niagara
its power

last resumed

its empire,

by raising
for

ful voice,

which

is heard

several

miles

round.

CHAPTER
Beyond Eternity, whose
end

XI.

is all abyss,
no

eye

can

reach. MILTON.

Guard

well thy thoughts ;

our

thoughts

are

heard in heaven. YOUNG.

IT
we

was

already
at
a

late in the

afternoon badly

when

arrived

large

but

conducted

hotel, situated piazza

were me

on

the Canada
to

attached
visible ;

this
the

From a side. building, the Falls

but

prospect

there

gave
; and
"

but

an

indifferent idea rather

can

of Niagara

I asked

myself,

disappointed, be the

Is
cata

it

possible
ract
on

that

this
"

greatest
the
piazza

earth ?

I quitted

with
to

disappointed
room,

expectations,

and
near

retired

my
to

where
over

I sat
the

down many

the window,

ruminate

miscalculations

in often the
mere

human
form.

life, and As

what

wrong have

ideas

we

luck

would towards eyes

it, however, by

window

looked

the Falls, and

on

chance

I fixed my

the white

wall

of

FALLS

OF

NIAGARA.

313

water,

I rising vapour. Fall, could see only part of the Horse-shoe had no idea of the sublime and consequently the Fall ; but I part of the precipice below
at

times

hid

by

heard

continual

noise from

the falling

mass

house shake to of water, and felt the whole its very foundation. I listened every moment
to the sound, and felt a eagerness inclination to take a closer view of strong Niagara. Another moment, and I could no

with

more

longer
dered

resist the impulse. down

Alone, I height,

soon

wan

the
came

steep

leading

from

the hotel, and

not without

closer to the Fall, though

having by

previously

paid my

tribute
wet

of curiosity, the

getting
the

thoroughly

by

spray,

which

wind

carried

in that

direction. The
at
a

first point from short distance was above

one

which
a

saw

the Fall

rock,

a projecting

few
as

yards it were,

the precipice, which

extremity

forms,

of the Horse-shoe.

This

rock goes by the name of Table Rock. Several pieces have lately been detached, and
fallen into the abyss
are

; in the remainder
sooner or

there

deep
to

lead Rock.

cracks, which, the demolition

As it is at

later, will Table

a

of the whole present, it gives

most
on a

excellent

view

of the Fall, being

nearly

314

FALLS

OF

NIAGARA.

level with

the

water,

and

opposite

to

the

semicircle. At Niagara, taken separately

there

are

two

ations, would

and placed each be considered

or

which, in different situ prodigious.

Fall,
as

Falls,

The

Canada

Fall,

the Horse-shoe

it

is likewise

markable.
name, as,

re the most called, is, however, It no longer deserves the latter

from

the undermining
nearly the form from

of the water, of
a

it has circle.

assumed

semi

I was what told on the spot, the Falls at a distant period Ontario, having by were not far from Lake

Were

I to

judge

degrees

receded
rests

to

the present

place.

This that
man,

assumption
the Falls

upon within

the circumstance
the memory
of

have,

actually receded nearly this is added that the the bottom that Lake the always bottom the

seventy
wear

yards.

If to
at

of the stones

continues is the
same

the

same,

and,
to

all the way

Erie,

inference

is reasonable

that
course

the great

Falls of Niagara

will, in the

to Buffalo, which of time, be removed ated on the lake justmentioned.

is situ

Long

before

I arrived

at

Niagara,

I had

often and repeatedly in the power of man these Falls in true

been
to

told that it is not describe I

even

and
met

paint

colours.

with

FALLS

OF

NIAGARA.

315
to

Americans
a

who
to

went

so

far
to

as

consider

it

sacrilege

attempt

depict Niagara
"

by

I still have a word, pen, or pencil. One day lively recollection of my surprise I happened in New to pass a bookseller's shop York, in
"

: several with a native American were excellent drawings of Niagara exposed in the window for general inspection. I

company

stopped,

and
at

drew the

his
same

attention time, my

to

them,
at

expressing,

delight

Uncertain the various engravings. whether I actually meant a what I said, he eyed me
long while claimed
not
seen

with a penetrating a sneer, at last, with

look, and "You

cut
me

ex

have
his

Niagara!"
This

and

then

short
at

conversation. time, and I was

remark

hurt

the

almost certain

example
much that

of

resolved to follow the heard so traveller, who

at Philadelphia
see

said of the waterworks he determined to not I did not act upon

; but

them
same

at

all.

Luckily

the

principle
so ex

at Niagara

my

curiosity became

it to the sen only compare cited, that I can for the first sation I felt when entering Rome in the streets of Pom time, or wandering
peii. In truth, there
no no

are

no

words

enough,
ration,

pen

gifted with

expressive sufficient inspi

an

pencil endowed

with

adequate

316

FALLS

OF

NIAGARA.

share

of

poetical
as

imagination,
is.

to

describe

Niagara
will be
a

it actually
a

The

production
it will
never

picture,
correct

copy
of

; but

convey Peter's

idea

the been

original.

St.

at

Rome

has

also
canvass

many
paper

times
can

described give the

; but neither

nor

sublime

impression

which
!
"

the first

sight of the original produces. have not seen Niagara "You words which
there I
was

In these truth,
of

is

certain

hidden

con thoroughly subsequently It is necessary to see one's vinced. with own mass eyes the immense of water, rolling from the sky down like a sea into unknown

depths

"

it is necessary
one's

to feel the earth trem

ble under resembling

ed,
or

feet, and
a

to listen to the noise

thunder

thousand

times

repeat the

the plaintive sounds heart of Vesuvius burning tottered

on

issuing from
"

it is necessary
waves,

to have

the tumultuous

to

know

is. No understand what Niagara distance, however a great, should prevent has person from visiting this Fall : whoever

and

seen

it may

greatest
then
rest

safely say that he has seen in the world, natural wonder satisfied.
without
Boast

the and

afterwards,
of thine

weak
own

creature,

blushing,

strength,

thy extensive

plans, thy great

per-

FALLS

OF

NIAGARA.

317 thou

formances,
wast
at

when

thou

recollectest what
!

the foot of Niagara

as

The Falls,
in

Rapids,
are

they

are

called, above

the

formed direction

of stones,
over

every

which, scattered the bottom of the

to its pro fearful resistance a river, make to any thing, gress. If they may be compared a they resemble wild and furious mob, rush

ing forward sion. The

an

in

waves

of delirium and confu be likened to those of cannot

state
or

agitated
:

sea,
no,

to those

near

coast

full

of shoals

there

is in them
are

absolutely
mass

different ; they

something like more

which

of

boiling

water,

from and

issue

clouds of steam.
as smooth tinge; but again as

Here
a

there the surface

is

mirror,

having

greenish

assumes

and

rocks

boiling, and then The stones glittering whiteness. have the resistance make which
about

it appears

nothing
thrown

remarkable

them, the

the

froth

high

in the

air being The

of their existence.
contact

danger

sign in of coming only

is very great : it is the with them forerunner of certain death to the unfortunate between person in the Fall itself. The current

the Rapids

is
come

so

strong
near

that

even

birds, which pos

happen

to

the surface, cannot

sibly escape.

318 An

FALLS

OF

NIAGARA.

Indian,

it is reported,
come

years

ago,

to

too

near

chanced, a few the Falls, in

a

to cross attempting far from Chippewa.

the

river in
no

canoe,

not

Seeing

hope

of escape,

he laid himself quietly down in his frail bark, in the which, in a few minutes, disappeared abyss.
a

small

In the midst island, only

on

is of the strong current few yards in circum a

in grass grow boast of never ; a spot which may abundance having been trodden by mortal footsteps. Its

ference,

which

moss

and

smiling ambitious

verdure
man,

is

tantalizing
is at length

objectto
obliged
to

who

confess that his genius has here suffered ship The depth of the stream wreck. round this island is very considerable, particularly to

wards forms
At

the
a

Canada

side, where

the

shore

semicircle.
resumes

the Falls, the water

colour, immense

and
mass,

rolls

over

the

its green precipice in one

more

contracted

circle, and in the centre. lustre when Each

which, however, becomes at both extremities of the thus loses the colour sooner The
I first
a sun

semi

than

was

stilldiffusing its

came

in sight of the Fall.

drop, at

distance, looked like the most glittering to the eye in va Amidst the Fall, appeared

perfect diamond,

riegated colours.

FALLS

OF

NIAGARA.

319

a a

number
complete

of rainbows,

one

of which

formed

extreme circle, whose side dipped in the white foam at the bottom of the reaches half the dis pit. Before the water
tance
to

the bottom,

it is again

changed

to

white

; and

here

the eye A

is incapable

of fol impene the

lowing trable

it any
as

longer.

vapour
ocean

as

the

fogs of the

involves
in
as a

remaining darkness,
Fall.

part of the cataract and

rises three times

mysterious high
as

the

When

the wind

happens

to be strong,

the
it
was

spray

is carried as far as the hotel, and often impossible to see from one shore

to the other.

As

soon

as

the water

dark
like
snow
a

and

gloomy

collected in the abyss, it appears from above

or

has

moving
"

snow-field,

rather

sea
"

of the

if I may of which

be

allowed

the term

billows
stream

roll with

difficulty.
a

The

remains

in this state for

few hundred

and, apparently exhausted with fatigue by the fall, runs feebly between the high and steep banks, which consist of naked walls of
yards,

rock, dotted only with pines and cypresses. At length itapproaches the beautiful American Fall, the waters from the of which advance
right, and disturbed

both uniting
mass,
now
run

into

agitated and past the ferry, until

one

320

FALLS

OF

NIAGARA.

they disappear
How
can a

together among

the mountains.
of this has
not

conception

of the sublimity
to

picture be imparted

any

one

who

visited Niagara! ing diamonds; earth tremble;

A
a

wall of millions of glitter

noise which vapour of

a

makes

the very with

which thousand
an

mingles

the sky ; rainbows

colours ; a gloomy in the abyss
"

variegated

darkness,
no,

icy atmosphere,
com

the

effect of these
to the mind

bined

cannot

be conveyed

by de

to scription, without doing injustice Niagara. had, in the mean The sun time, set beyond

of and the darkness I had, nevertheless, on night came suddenly. great difficulty in tearing myself away, and if fixed to a rock, till the mid as remained, If Niagara night hour had struck. appeared in majestic the midst of sunshine, it was not less so in the faint light of a summer's night.

the Canada

boundary,

Darkness every by
a

did not

prevent

my

distinguishing surrounded heats summer

but object; in northern

all appeared
as

light mist, such

great

produce
an

allegorical

subject
a
a

regions, and which furnish for poets. The noise

:

itself assumed be likened to

character from an language

solemn

it might

unknown

world. On the following day, I had

occasion

to

see

FALLS

OF

NIAGARA.

321

the Fall from different points ; among which I must forget particularly to mention not It is not Rock. that at the foot of Table
without way
to

difficulty that this spot

:

find his person can loose and detached pieces

a

of rock

render
:

advance
not

it exceedingly dangerous to is bold enough to venture, whoever

himself, by a single false exposes step, to be precipitated to the bottom, but he must also be able to resist the influence of
only
a

and suffocating atmosphere, rising from the bottom of the pit. But the pro spect is unparalleled, and he who accomplishes the descent into the abyss is well rewarded
for

damp

his trouble

he

enters

subterraneous

is a rock, path, the roof of which projecting the rolling mass of whose outer side bounds
water.

This
some

path, about
places

two

feet in width,

and
one

at

hundred known The

the

rock, Rock.

and by

only one, extends about fifty-three feet towards a

name

the

of

Termination considerably
point

roof shoots forward

at
one

towards about

top, and forty feet.

to

projects

It is impossible

cross

the
a

river to the

American
tance

side, unless from the Canada The

at

considerable dis below Fall, and even

in
a

the

American.
II.

passage

ferry,
Y

or

VOL.

322

FALLS

OF

NIAGARA.

rather minutes;
to
an

boat, is performed

in about

fifteen

but it is attended
inexperienced

with many the

dangers
current

boatman, the water

on

being

very strong* and

safely arrived
is obliged

rather rough. side, the

When

the opposite

traveller

to

steps, built along the and finds himself at last

Fall,
as

ascend face of
near

some
a

wooden
rock,

steep

the American
taken

it is called.

This,

by

itself,

deserves
ous
near

as one of the stupend admiration, works of Nature ; but, from its situation so to the other, itseffect is less striking. The

water

is precipitated
at
a

over

an

almost
as

wall, appearing,

distance, form

straight if raised by
a

the hand Loose

of

man,

in the

of

rampart. break

stones

and

fragments

of rock

the
tom,

mass

of water

and

the

before it reaches the bot flies off as far as the spray Viewed
leaves who from
a

stream

above

the Fall. and

below, im

it is most pression
seen
even

imposing,
upon

deep

the Canada

persons Fall.
thrown from main

have

already

Two of

bridges

are

across

this part Fall, uniting

the river, not Island

with

far

the

Goat them
the that

the

land.

One

of

fillsevery rapidity
an

spectator

with

astonishment,
so

of

the

stream

being

great
ex-

eye, not

accustomed

to the sight,

GOAT

ISLAND.

323
it carried

pects

every moment

to

see

away,

the Fall. The visiter and precipitated over hastens knowing across and without why, feels pleasure in setting foot on the island.
None
visit Goat

Island without

being regaled

man, who story of a young with a romantic lived several years as a hermit on this isolated are now-a-days, and woody spot. Hermits,

so

uncommon
a

and

so

much

out

of fashion,

that
ever

traveller often spends years without It is, therefore, not meeting with one.
some

without

interest that the visiter listens

to the gloomy

tunate

tale of the eccentric but unfor The miserable hut Francis Abbott. he dwelt, the beaten path
between

in which

selected for his daily recreation, in the discordant guitar, his only companion the trees,
many
over
a

lonely hour,
on

the

bridge projecting
Rocks,
"

the

which relics

abyss he lowered

Terrapin

from

himself

at times

all these

are

beheld
one,

memory the

with interest, and recall to who, though young, looked upon

world with contempt, and only sought felicityin retirement and wild Nature. Goat Island is still a wilderness. A thick
stands
in its primitive of
man.

forest yet

untouched
on

by the hand

splendour, The banks

;

three sides of this island

are

very low
Y

the

324

DIMINUTIVE

FALL.

fourth, towards
the two

the

North,

situate

between

great Falls, has an elevation of about hundred one the and eighty-five feet above On this side, not far surface of the stream.
from

the American
itself, which

Fall,

diminutive

Fall has
one

formed the most

with
a

is, in my I
ever

opinion,
saw.

of

enchanting*

Compared

the other two

to
a

natural

plaything has worked

amuse

it is like wonders, The water children.

between roots passage of trees and bushes, forming a thick wall, the only banks which the eye can discover. Wind
narrow

ing

in

numerous near

curves,

the

mass

of water

finally draws appears. thrown

A
across

the precipice, where it dis bridge, made beams, is of two

the river, a few steps only from the Fall ; the view from this rustic spot is in Inclosed, as it were, romantic. extremely

the

brushwood,

the

visitef

can

only

see

ob

lying jects

before the Fall, and hear the roar ing of the great Falls, without being able to heights of Canada, discern them. The and
the town
as

of Clifton, or
out

the City of the Falls*,

on

yet only marked

paper,

rise

on

the

other
*

side of the scarcely

visible stream

in

This town, which at present consists of only a few houses, is built on speculation, and will probably, in the course of time, be to those wno come an prefer the grand scenery of agreeable retreat Nature to the noise and bustle of great cities.

DIMENSIONS

OF

THE

FALLS.

325

the valley, and close the prospect in that di forms a beautiful and The rection. whole
picture. romantic The American Fall, according to the infor I received on the spot, is one mation which hundred and sixty-four feet high, and about

That again on the feet wide. Canada side is calculated at about one hun dred and fifty or one hundred and seventy
nine hundred

feet in elevation, and about two thousand feet in width ; if to this height is added that of the Rapids, the aggregate elevation of the

Canada
ten

twenty and the ascertain, with any degree of accuracy, depth of this Fall in the centre is impossible ; but, if the depth

to

Fall will be hundred two

from

two

hundred

and feet. To

half a mile of the current distant, which is two hundred and fiftyfeet, be taken as a criterion, it is not im may probable that the depth in the middle of the great Fall is at least five hundred feet. The is calculated at the rate of six miles current hour, which, with very littlevariety, con an From tinues the whole year through. this it* may
be inferred, that
are

more

than

one

hundred

tonjLof water

hourly precipitated over the Falls, and, consequently, in twenty-four hours, not less than the immense quantity of two

thousand

four hundred

tons,

326

CRUEL

AMUSEMENT.

Scenes of

barbarous

character

have, upon

various occasions, been exhibited at this spot, for the purpose of collecting and amusing- a In the summer of 1827, a of people. number
small
ent

vessel, filled with kinds, was sent down

of differ animals the Falls, in the

presence

of several thousand

animals, unfortunate wolves, dogs, cats, geese, "c.

spectators. The consisting- of bears,

covered
the

deck,

while looked at each other with surprise and fear, as if unable to account for this sudden and unusual association ; but,

and

for

the bark struck against the rocks above beyond the Fall, the confusion on board was

when

description ; and in the midst of it a bear Luckily he swam shoved into the stream. shore,

was on

the rapidity of the notwithstanding The ran current. small vessel, meanwhile, aground, lost its masts, and gradually filled The with water. poor animals gathered on

that part of the above party

which (Jeck
and
in
a

was

most

elevated

the water,
was

second

precipitated down on now tered fragments the sur appeared face of the deep, and of all the animals only
two cat and a goose. picked up alive .a What cruel sport for an enlightened people ! Days passed like hours at this remarkable
"

the whole the Fall. Shat

were

place, where

Nature

has done

so

much,

that

QUEENSTON.

327

Art My main
a

dare
time,

not

venture

to

attempt
permit

any
me

more.

however,

did

not

to

re

any

longer ; I therefore place called Newark,

left Niagara

for the

small

situated where Lake

on

Canada
River
opposite side.

side, at discharges
to

the

spot

Niagara

itself into

Ontario,

Fort

Niagara

on

the American

About
is
a

half way

between
a

the Falls and

Newark
only for
between

Queenston,
English

battle fought the

village remarkable here in October, 1812,

the the Americans,
in
com

and

which
mander,

General
was

Brock,

English

slain. The erected

a

Legislature
monument

of Upper
to

Canada
mory,

has

his

me

consisting of a stone column, form, one hundred and twenty-six

It stands
on
an

of spiral

feet high.

eminence,

two

seventy River,

feet above and

is
a

the surface
conspicuous The prospect

and of the Niagara

hundred

objectin
from

the

neighbourhood. is represented the

the top

to be extremely

beautiful ; but
steamboat pre

sudden
me

departure
from

vented From
steamers

of the visiting it.

the
are,

confluence during

of Niagara the fine season, Prescott

River,
continu

ally

plying
on

between
the

burgh,

St.

Lawrence.

and OgdensOne of the

me across

largest, the Great

Britain, carried

328

LAKE

ONTARIO.

Lake

Ontario
and

to

Prescott,

distance

of two in is

hundred

fifty miles, in thirty hours,

Lake
an

cluding* several stoppages. immense an sheet of water,

and
at
one

Ontario

absolute
to

sea,

times

It is

very hundred
four

dangerous

length, and
circumference unknown.
ten

and hundred

navigators. seventy-one miles in and sixty-seven in is in many places

it is about

; its depth

Opposite
;

to

Kingston

miles wide

dually,

and for
a

it decreases gra afterwards St. Lawrence, forms the River

which,

considerable distance, continues breadth, about two miles. A num of the same ber of islands, scattered, as it were, over the The the name of obtained surface, has
"

Thousand The land

were

Isles."

steamboat

stopped

at several places
:

to

and receive passengers Kingston. Oswego and

to be in to
a

the

principal former The

improving

appeared
state,

flourishing and

owing

its advantageous

at the mouth

of the canal, which the Erie

a

situation unites Lake

at

Ontario
Kingston,

with

Canal

Syracuse. Canada,

again, is

town

in Upper

become that will, according to all appearance, one of the most important places in this part of It is a naval station, which cir the country.
cumstance,

coupled

with

its active

commerce

THE

RIDEAU

CANAL.

329

with

the interior, gives it a life and with the environs,

animation

littleaccording

destitute
and

as

they

are

of every

thing picturesque,

only

distinguished
canal
ment,

by well cultivated corn-fields. A has been cut, at the expence of Govern

for the purpose of avoiding shoals and dangerous every points in the St. Lawrence,
Prescott where found between by the name This canal, known

and

Montreal.

of the Rideau

Canal,

commences

at

short

distance

from

Kingston, which Important

River, at Ottawa and terminates falls into the St. Lawrence at Montreal.
results
to

Kingston
and

are

from this undertaking, they will be realized.

I have

expected littledoubt
lately

Attempts

have

made for Upper

but

been

to

remove now

the seat of government

at York,
success.

Canada,

to Kingston

hitherto

The
not
more was

without distance from than

one one

Prescott hundred

to Montreal

is
:

and

fifty miles

this had and

of the most The

was

wearisome
over

trips I the shoals

that the them.

in Canada.

current
so

sand-banks did

strong,
to

steamboats

not

venture

cross

therefore, obliged to land on arriving a few at three different flats, and to proceed navi miles by stages, until the river became In this manner were the tragable again.

We

were,

330

CANADIAN

INDIANS.

vellers compelled,

hundred

and

this short trip of one fiftymiles, to alight five different

from It is to steamboat
to stage,

during

times, and to

remove

and vice Canadians stronger

versa.

be

hoped

that

the

will remedy and

more

this evil, by

building
of suffi
cur

suitable steamers,

to work cient power against the strong I must rent. also add, that they must

im

prove

stages and roads, which indifferent.

are

really very
frequent

During
portunities
is
common

this excursion, of seeing

I had

op
as

Indians.

They

were,

in the vicinity of Whites,

destroyed
debau

by the influence of ardent

spirits and
a

chery, but gave, nevertheless, to the landscape. appearance

In many

characteristic

the flats prevented places, where from advancing, the Indians the steamboats

undauntedly
through

pushed
waves,

forward

their

canoes

blind and between The frail bark flew with shoals in the river. the flats, and the rapidity of lightning over held was with a single oar, easily managed

rushing

by

an

Indian
on

there,

sitting in the stern. shore, I also saw groups

all peaceably

Here

and

of these
in cooking

Red

Men,

occupied

their siesta. The their victuals, or taking is the boundary village of St. Regis, which

CANADIAN

INDIANS.

331

between inhabited
are

Canada
by
an

and Indian

the

United

States,

is

tribe.

These

people
even
a

in

general
where

baptized, divine
partly

and

have

church,

service

is performed.

They
the them, posed

subsist sale

by agriculture,

partly

by
by dis

of trifling articles
are

manufactured amicably

and

said

to

be very

towards

the Whites.

CHAPTER

XII.

Happy

the nations of the moral north ! Where all is virtue, and the winter season Sends Sin, without a rag on, shivering forth.

('Twas

snow

that brought

St. Anthony

to

reason.)
BYRON.

MONTREAL and

is the
on
an

second
island
a

town

in Canada, St.

is situated

in the River it looks

Lawrence.
a

Seen
mass

at

distance,

like

compact

of buildings,
The

confined

within
the

narrow

boundaries.

streets,

with
narrow,

exception crooked,

of St. James's

Street,
out
;

are

and

badly

laid
are

the

houses,
of the

chiefly built of brick,

taste. town,

low

and

destitute
outside

This
so
no

defect is not

perceived

that the first impression

means

of Montreal The
in the roofs,
sun,

is by

disagreeable.
tin, and

covered give them

correct

with
a

glittering appearance,
of the

singular
obscurity

and

partly
streets.

the

gloomy

number

of steeples

rise between appears

the build

ings, at

the

head

of which

the

ma-

MONTREAL.

333

jestic cathedral,
North
Helen's it, the Towards America.

undoubtedly
Opposite

the largest

in

to the town

is St.

Island, which is fortified ; and beside Island of Nuns, and several others. the west, again, is a mountain,

standing which

like

bulwark

the city derives

against its name.

storms,

from

Here

and

there, between
are

the openings

of this mountain, the

whiteness

seen

neat

of which

country-houses, forms an agreeable green

contrast

the surrounding

the

top

of

the

parks and is a thick mountain imparts life

to

with groves. At wood, whole

whose richness landscape. Among generally

and
some

the

the shown

public
to

buildings

at

Montreal

tioned.
Gothic

strangers, the cathedral deserve to be men of the convents first is built of stone, The in the hundred hundred
of

style, two
one

and and

fifty-five feet

in length, and width.

thirty-four in
was

The
six

plan

the

architect

to

build
high
:

two square towers, this has, unfortunately,

hundred
not

feet
car

been

ried into

effect.

Two

towers

those and even has a very so that the front of the church interior con The appearance. unfinished

commenced,

only have been are not finished ;

tains

nothing

remarkable.

The

paintings

334

MONTREAL.

over

the altar be

are

not

cannot

called

particularly good, Behind masterpieces.

few painted and
on

and
the
win

a principal altar there are dows, Christ representing

the

twelve of

Apostles,

deservedly

admired

account

the freshness
ness

of the colours

and

the correct

of the design.
convents
are

The

almost

exclusively

ap

to the care The propriated of the sick. Hotel de Dieu is a spacious hospital, managed by nuns, is not whose zeal in the good cause

surpassed The Grey

convent,

country in Europe. Sisters have another hospital in the

in any

Catholic

where the orphans who had the mis fortune of losing their parents during the of the cholera last year are taken prevalence
care

of*.

It is scarcely

in words kindness,

the

active

possible to express humanity, the extreme

shown

by

these

towards

the unfortunate impossible to convey

nuns charitable children; it is equally

correct

idea

of the

careful education

therless littleones. ciate such

which they give to these fa The Protestant can appre

actions
as

noble

well
a

as

the Catho

lic ; such sacrifices and

all the
*

such

renunciation

of

enjoymentsof

life in favour

of

good

In Quebec, two demic; in Montreal,

thousand five hundred two thousand.

persons died of this epi

POPULATION

OF

CANADA.

335

cause,

must

be
nuns

admired
possess

by
a

every
convent

sect

on

earth.

The

chapel,

fitted up with taste and

is, without
as

A stranger elegance. difficulty, admitted into it, as well

convent
; he

into
a

the

is only expected
nuns.

to

buy

few articles manufactured by the has an extensive trade, and Montreal

as a
more

may

be considered

thriving

place than

Quebec,

the latter city is better although The population of Mont situated for trade. real, in the year 1825, was about twenty-four thousand stated souls ; at this period, it was
to

Lower thirty thousand. exceed had, in the year 1814, a population

Canada
of three
;

hundred present
than
six

and
moment,

thirty-five
it cannot

thousand
amount

at
to

the less by

hundred

thousand.

To

judge

the influx of emigrants

of late years, the po

pulation

of Upper

Canada

ought

to be nearly

Province. equal to that of the Lower Canada, according to a late census,

one sons

contains

million inhabitants.

The

number

of per

hither, within the last ten who have come of settling, is very con years, for the purpose In the increase. siderable, and annually on
the year 1825, nine thousand and ninety-seven emigrants arrived : in 1832, forty-nine thou
sand, four hundred, and

twenty-two.

Large

336

EMIGRATION

TO

THE

CANADAS.

districts, particularly

in Upper

Canada,

are

incredible rapidity as peopled with the same Re in the Western States of the American
" in every direction, Forests are, public. levelled with the ground," says Flint in his large and "and often referred to work
"

or three villages spring up in two the period of erecting the first years from hut." The price of uncultivated land is nearly in the United States. Several as the same

compact

private companies, made

to which

Government of land,
to
are

has striv
the

considerable ing to induce new shores

which
are

grants
comers

settle

near

of

Lake

Huron

; but

the districts to

the tide of emigration principally flows those in the neighbourhood of the River
in Upper

St. Lawrence,
Lake
A

Canada,

and

about

Ontario.

wealthy, and rather better-informed, has, of late class of individuals from Europe Canada, in preference years, settled in Upper Province, on account to the Lower of les Lois
des Seigneurs, These
laws,

which

are

still in force there.

which give proprietors the same during as the existence of the prerogatives in Europe, date their origin feudal system
from

the times

when

Canada
The

French

emigrants.

peopled by Government of the

was

PROPRIETORS

OF

LOWER

CANADA.

337

country, as usual upon such occasions, large grants of was not dilatory in making land to court favourites. The consequence of mother
so

impolitic
new

The

step may proprietors had

; and,
as

easily be imagined. land than they more

could manage
sufficient means
on

they neither possessed to engage hands for carrying

an

agriculture

upon

extensive

scale,

nor

were

permitted, according to an express sti pulation in the French patent, to dispose of

any portion of their land, with a view to the better cultivation of the remainder, it was of wild tracts natural that the improvement

should

proceed

but

"

slowly.

Upon

the

of the interestingwhole," says the author it will seem work, England and America that the establishment of these absurd lord
"
"

after the Dutch ships in the wilderness was, plan in South Africa, the best way to ruin the of the restrictions thereby colony, by means imposed
on

the useful appropriation

of waste

land."
the contrary, where found such laws never existed, the emigrants for settling. If every possible encouragement had a Canada it is considered that Lower
on

In Upper

Canada,

large population
vince
VOL. was
II.

at the

time

the Upper Indians,

Z

Pro if,

peopled

only

by

and

338

RELIGION.

moreover,

the

increase

is added,

which

has

taken

place in the interior only of the country (exclusively that in Quebec, Montreal, and of

other nada

towns,)it will

be

seen

that Upper

Ca

has gained a great accession of inhabit that ten years ants in a very short time, and in have there effected more than one hundred is always Such Canada. Lower the conse

quence

of unreasonable

laws

in this enlight

ened age. The Catholic among

the

religion is the prevailing

particularly and

one

Canadians,

among

those who the whole

inhabit Montreal
of Lower

Quebec, and
where the
still re

Canada,

offspring of former French In Upper Canada, side.

colonists

has again, which received the greater part of its population from England Scotland, the Protestant and religion is prevalent. The
name

of Canada

has

given

rise

to

many
as

and conjectures,
before

to its etymology.

antiquaries stilldiffer The Spaniards visited

French. named

this country

the

One

indi

vidual of the former it is said, expecting

and silver mines,
on

nation,
to

Yelasco,

find abundant gold in disappointed being repeatedly to his Nothing means

"

his expectations, exclaimed followers, Aca nada, which

DESCENDANTS

OF

FRENCH

SETTLERS.

339

is to be found

here."

The

Indians, hearing
often repeat this

the disappointed

Spaniards

expression, remembered tioned it to the French suming

the sound,
on

and

men

their arrival, pre

to the
same

that they belonged

nation,

and
it.

unacquainted Aca nada nification, thought given

to

consequently The French,

understood

the meaning

of

with
was

the sig
name

the

and therefore determined in future to call it Ca Another explanation says, that Kannada. is an Indian word, meaning a village, nada country
or

the

by

the

Indians,

induced of the natives, which the French, it is said, to call the whole coun The real Canadians, I mean try by that name.
the

dwellings

descendants

of French

diminutive

size, strongly healthy, sun-burnt faces, and, upon the whole, Their eyes are black contented and happy.

colonists, are of built, with lively,

and

sparkling,

chin pointed. is a kind of patois, which no Frenchman can They are naturally quiet, and understand. into are satisfied with little: improvements
lerable
to

their cheeks They speak

thin, and the French, but it

them.

Education

has,

unfor

tunately, made
mass

and

but littleprogress among this of people, who are blindly led by priests have Their manners a monks. slight
z

340

DESCENDANTS

OF

FRENCH

SETTLERS.

tinge

of

guished Normandy.

distin characteristics which their forefathers, chiefly natives of the Towards

each other

they

are

friendly and ing, dancing,

to

full of attentions, They and mirth. endure

privations

fond
are

of sing

strangers
misfor

fear, and

and

tunes

with

extraordinary
met

culiar

trait is not

This apathy. pe with in Canada only

have settled in America, Frenchmen wherever have the same their descendants character istics. A traveller will find them in the Wes
tern

States,

from

the

Pacific

Ocean

to

the

of the Mississippi. mouth is unique, but old-fashioned. Their costume The

the
coarse
men wear

jackets,ith w
hats
or

red sash round

mocassins also

waist,

caps,

and

of
a

leather. which

The reminds

women

have

costume,

you of the fashions which prevailed several hundred years ago. I proceeded Montreal From by a steam boat
to

Quebec,

distance

of

one

hundred The

miles, eighty and River St. Lawrence

in eighteen

hours.

has its source forms Lake

in unknown Erie in its

at

regions
course,

in the West, precipitates

itself down

the

Falls

Niagara, Thence

and
to the

is finally lost in Lake

sea,

Ontario.
of St.
its

it goes

by the
to

name

Lawrence.

From

Montreal

Quebec,

SHORES

OF

THE

ST.

LAWRENCE.

341

width

is

continually

changing,

being

in

places only two

as

miles, in others, again, fifteen, of St. Peter's. houses,

at the Lake

The

banks

are

covered
mansions,

with

churches,
to

villages, and
seigneurs.
are

belonging the

wealthy and

The

roofs of with

houses

churches

covered

tin, and

the buildings
them
corn,

generally

meadows, parks, and groves ; and, in the background, lofty mountains, or appear wild forests. On fine wheat, barley, grass, and the banks
tobacco, becomes and,
upon
are

painted white. large fields of

Between
Indian

may
and

be

seen

cultivated. you

The

soil, however,

less fertile as

approach

Quebec
few

advanced
miles

the whole, agriculture appears Canada. A than in Upper

the country, within
a

less

up

short distance

the of the shores of the River St. Lawrence, has not yet touched a single tree ; there axe still stands the virgin forest in all its primi
tive

majesty.
principal places between
are

The

the two
or

cities

just mentioned
and
Three

William
two

Henry,

Sorel,

Rivers,

At spots. agreeable has a Lower Canada

sandy and very dis Sorel, the Governor of

resides with
year.

he country-seat, where his family several months in the

342

QUEBEC.

The

distance

from

Quebec

is stillconsider

Fort, Cape Diamond, the famous able when becomes Near to the city, on the visible.

right shore, the mouth of the river Chaudiere is passed, and Wolfe's Cove, on the other. It was at this point that General Wolfe, in year 1759, led the hundred steep hill, one the English and army
up
a

fifty feet high,

with the intention of taking possession of the heights above, called the Heights of Abraham.

Wolfe,
but

as

it is well known, the satisfaction of

fell in the

action ;

had

of first witnessing

the

discomfiture
the

the of

French victory

army,

and

hearing He

sounds shortly
nation

expired

the English and

afterwards, the inheritance he

proclaimed. but left to

of

Quebec
his

all Canada,

which

sealed

with

blood.

City of Quebec is situated on the left bank of the St. Lawrence, three hundred and fifty miles from immediately the sea, and
The above
the point where
river. the river

St. Charles
has lower

joinsthe
Quebec
The hundred
the water,

mighty into an

Nature and
a a

divided
town.

upper
on

first is built and

steep

rock,

three

forty-five feet above

the level of

by walls, on which and surrounded fortifications have been erected, forming the

QUEBEC.

343

ornament

and

part, again, rock,

celebrity of Quebec. The lower is built at the foot of the same occupied by the lower

and

exclusively

classes and
are narrow

they have

offices. The streets in the upper part even and mean; houses are defect. The the same
stories high, with
are

by merchants'

chiefly built of brick, two

tin roofs
:
a

great

which improves lation, in 1800, amounted

in 1825, to

painted The their appearance.

to twelve

many

white,
popu

thousand,
En

twenty-two

thousand,

souls.

glish is spoken in the higher society : among is as the lower ranks, again, French much heard The English. Indians, of whom as a corrupt there is a great proportion, speak French
even as

well
use

as

their native

tongue,

and

make

of the former

language

among
far
still

themselves. The from

public

buildings

in

Quebec

are

possessing they have more

any remarkable
the appearance

feature; of what
same

they

profess to be than others of the ter in various parts of Canada.

charac The prin

Catholic church, cipal of them are, the Roman with a few tolerable paintings ; the Seminary,
formerly
of

exclusively appropriated but now to theology, open

of learning
; the Court

to the study

branch

every other of Justice ; the

344 Ursuline
in which

CAPE

DIAMOND,

Convent,
a

founded
of girls

as are

early

as

1639,
; the

number

educated

Castle of St. Louis, or the palace of the Go built on a perpendicular vernor, rock, about feet above hundred This two the stream.
building
was

consumed
to my

by fire in the winter

subsequent But the

visit.

greatest Fort

and
at

finest ornament

of

Quebec
called
on

is the
account

Cape

Diamond,

thus

of the glittering appearance of the stones that form the rock, on which the It commands not only the citadel is built. whole the city, but also the surrounding The
immense
to

parts

of

neighbourhood. has expended ment

English
sums

govern these

upon

works,

and

even

this
from

day being

the

gigantic

undertaking When once

completed. finished, the fortress will be im

is far

pregnable on all sides, excepting that on which are the Heights of Abraham situated. These heights are elevation as nearly of the same
the ramparts It
was

them.

of the fortress, and from this side that

close to General

Wolfe
No and

attacked Quebec. point in Canada offers

than

more

extensive
From

delightful view
walls
one

this citadel.

the upper every

hundred

and may see far and near, presents a yards in advance

VIEW

FROM

THE

FORT.

345

Below, lies the confined different prospect. city, with its tin roofs ; the residence of the
the with governor, adjoininggarden ; the harbour, full of ships, steamers, and sloops. for a dis is seen St. Lawrence The mighty
tance

of

some

lofty banks
into two

between miles, rolling its waves the north it is divided ; towards

parts

the

west

Charles,
an

To by the Island of Orleans. the fine river St. of the city runs the other side of it, opens and, on country, which,
as

extensive

and

cottages, follow these

with studded like a long and

as

houses
endless reach.

street,

far

the

eye

can

Behind

cultivated and closely built at rise in succession, some parts, mountains a distance, others quite near, with sharp and The Tsononthuan Mountain, pointed tops. feet, is with its two peaks of two thousand foremost in this chain, which seen extends from the coast
to

of Labrador

to Lake

Superior.
Levi,
a

Opposite

the

city appears

Point

small village, the church-spire of which shoots in the midst up in a most picturesque manner, of the

thick

again, may Loretto, whose

even

wood. be seen

quarter, another the Indian village of romantic situation is pleasing

From

at

this distance.
are

There

two

waterfalls

in the vicinity of

346

THE

MONTMORENCY

FALLS.

Quebec,
One

which

every

traveller

is called Montmorency,

visit. the other Chaueight miles

same name,

should

diere. The from

not

Montmorency
a

is about

it discharges where The stream itself into the St. Lawrence. runs spot
a

city, on far from the

the

river of the

great

distance between

narrow

tillit cliffs,

approaches in width.

the Fall, which is one hundred feet It there precipitates itself,with

a

extraordinary velocity, over hundred forest-clad rock, two high, and

is transformed

perpendicular

and

forty feet
foam be

into white

fore it reaches the bottom. has here, as in many other

nature,

The places

love of gain

destroyed

the

beauty

of the like of the Fall, by

purpose

the erection

of saw-mills,

for which

has been portion of the water considerable from Several diverted mass. the general have formed on themselves small cataracts

the
ter,

sides of it, which

now,

so

that in
an

the quantity undivided

of

wa

column, the rock, is small in precipitates itself down be if the stream proportion to what it would into the abyss. In winter, fell uninterruptedly heights are the surrounding used as Mon
tagues

Russes.

The

Chaudiere
name,

Falls

river of that

situated on the nine miles from its influx

are

THE

CHAUDIERE

FALLS.

347
is about

into the St. Lawrence.

four hundred

The

stream

Fall rocks forms which

one

feet wide, and the height of the hundred thirty-five. Several and that, properly

divide it, so

speaking,

it

three different Falls close to each afterwards

unite into
a

other,

single undivid

ed mass of water, before reaching the bottom. is extremely The romantic, neighbourhood and enhances the beauty of the whole. Which
ever

way

the eye turns,

are

nothing
seen,

but

rocks

of

shapes manifold forest-trees bend The

waters

whilst
over

verdant

their heads

the stream.
of

uniform

noise sublime and is heard in every direction.

to

rolling The spot

deserves

be
as

called the
Trenton

Lover's

Waterfall
States

in Canada,

in the

United

is denominated.
is conducted by of Canada government for each province, appointed by a governor Britain. These the King of Great officers

The

select seventeen

Members

of the Council, together with

or

Upper
Lower

House, House,

which,

the

are members whose chosen by legislative or the people, form the Parliament body that rules the English colony of Ca To possess a right to vote, it is neces nada,

sary to be settled in the country, to have an income to pay taxes a year, and of five pounds

348
to

GOVERNMENT

OF

CANADA.

the amount
No
law

of ten

pounds,

Canada

cur

rency.

is valid until it has

no

received
of

the sanction

whatever before

of the King, and import it maybe, can been

measure,

be acted upon and signed

on

it has

submitted

the other side of the Atlantic. Is Canada ruled as it is by really happy, English King ? This question is often put an by natives, as well as foreigners, visiting the

country.
given
to
me

I will answer Canada :

"

it in the very

words

past,
means

been have

in

has, for several years feverish state, and yet no adopted

for

been

allaying
a

the

symptoms.
once

On

the

uncertain

and malady;
of

contrary, hesitating,
so

policy, at has visibly

com

increased ponent
culture,

the

that

all the

parts

the

State,

commerce,

agri

industry, have suffered very and it is true, has England, endea seriously.
voured
to conciliate the

affections

of the

co

in various granting advantages regard to duties on timber, the principal arti the whole country cle of export from Canada, being, with few exceptions, nothing but forests.

lonists, by

But
a

the colonists know,

service
to

also, that they render

by country, mother receiving and providing for the poor surplus of Great Britain, unable to live at population
great the

GOVERNMENT

OF

CANADA.

349
to

home. England that

much

They

know

that
so

it is
a

misfortune

to possess
serves

large the

population,

and

Canada
as

herself, when is
a

bosom

that which

as country she receives into her to real incumbrance

mother

the other.

England

can

therefore only blame

herself, if she neglects the opportunity of deriving from the colony all the advantages which may be expected from a country posses
sing in her soil so many Restless demagogues
selves of the
treasures

and
avail
excite

riches.

adroitly

them
waver

and conjuncture,

ing minds

English

against Governors
in the

the mother country. daily losing are

same

The

their
as

popularity,

proportion

the

democratic
Principles

the ascendency. party is gaining from the neighbouring of freedom

States
rising

penetrate

imperceptibly
force

among

the

generation, and the later induce or will sooner

of example
to

the Canadians

hoist the standard of rebellion, and independent." themselves

All this is possible, perhaps such a step, I ask, so would
the condition of Canada, of first taking
as

to declare

probable ; but improve much

to

preclude

the

expediency the many

into consideration

perils to which by

the colony would

be of

exposed

declaring

itself independent

350

ST.

JOHN'S.

Great

Britain?
to
answer

I do

not

know

enough

of

Canada
help upon

this question

; yet I cannot

thinking

that such

measure,

if acted

by the colony, would mother

country.

rather benefit than

the injure
In order

to be able

to return

to the United to Mont

States, I
real, and
steam, town

was

obliged

to travel back

thence

continue

my

route,

partly by
a

partly by land, to St. John's,

on

small
unites

the

River

Richelieu, Champlain
discharging

which
with

the waters

of Lake

those

of

the

St.

Lawrence, into the

itself subse
at Sorel.

quently
veral

latter stream lately been

Se

have projects La
means

in contempla between

tion to facilitate the

communication Prairie,
on

St. John's
Lawrence,
but

and

the River
or

St.

by

of

canal

railroad,
execution

neither
summer

had

been

carried

into

in the At
steamer

of 1834. I went
on

St. John's
Franklin,

board
on

the the

fine fol
situ

lowing1 morning

started which for Whitehall, a extremity

town

ated at the southern

plain, which forms States of New York hundred

teen

of Lake Chambetween the the boundary

and

Vermont.

It is

one

and

forty miles
at
so

in length, and part.

as

four both
a

in width,

the widest
confined

At

extremities

it is

to

resemble

TICONDEROGA.

351 in

narrow

river.

The

banks

are

some

places
mo

in their natural state, full of woods and has made rasses : in others, cultivation progress.

some

the exception of the country about Burlington, pretty, which is extremely I found nothing grand or striking in the ap pearance the
of the shores
war,

With

of this lake. the

During
for inde

French

and

struggle

pendence, the
scene

frequently was this neighbourhood battles between the of sanguinary

hostile
existing

armies.

Of

the

fortifications then
but

nothing Ticonderoga and

which has
a

remains

the

ruins

of

Crown

Point,

the

first of

very
two
was

between George.

the
It

appearance, picturesque Champlain lakes, and

in

1756, and the English.

erected by the French, fell into the hands afterwards The

year Americans took

of

possession

of it in the

1775,

when retook it.

a

1777,

the English
At

and retained it till General, Burgoyne,

moment,

the present
a

it is only

heap

of ruins, with

few

of the walls

still

standing.
Lake
America.

George
It

is

one

of the finest lakes thirty-six of

miles
a

in
in

is about

length, and

from

three quarters

mile to

four miles in width.

a

It is interspersed

with

number

of islands ; among

which

Diamond

352

LAKE

GEORGE.

Island
The
so

deserves

to
a

occupy

the

first place. known

be

water

has
over

peculiar

clearness,

well
a

all

the country,

that

it has

come

Lake

to say clear as the water proverb of The banks, chiefly consisting of George.
are

mountains,

clad with the verdure

sometimes

of trees

and

bushes,

and

shoot up close to recede

towards and

the water's the the

edge, sometimes interior, leaving between

of the

the margin

top

ascents,

which

long mountains the husbandman The

cultivate to advantage.

and gradual is able to whole lake had

something
was

so

pleasing
utmost
on

with

the

and inspiring, that it difficulty the visiter

to

could be prevailed ing neighbourhood. traversing the Lake Loch

quit this enchant

than did
once,

More

while

George,

beautiful that

Katerine

I call to mind I in Scotland. haunted banks

;

thought Lake,

I recognised

Helen's
romantic

its magic

island, and
once
more

I fancied myself Scott. Walter

At

in the country

of

the southern
small by

extremity
called and
summer

of Lake

George
distin
si

is

village,

Caldwell,

guished
tuation.

its pleasant

country-like

During

the

place is much

frequented

months by inhabitants
of
some

this
from

the larger cities, desirous

relaxation

RETURN

TO

NEW

YORK.

353

after the noisy pleasures of a winter's town life. From this place I proceeded to Saratoga, Glen Falls, an passing, on the road, through insignificant known
Last
are

place,

by Cooper's

a waterfall, with interesting novel,

"

only The

of the Mohicans,"

the

scenes on

of which

partly laid here, partly Lake George.

From

the shores

of

Saratoga

I again

travelled

to New

York,
The

in the beginning
was

of September, oppressive
not
; and

]833.

heat

extremely
as were

such
to

of the citizens remain

sea-coast, at

actually

obliged
to

home

had

repaired,

some

the of

refreshing

others to the breezes.

North,

in quest

VOL.

II.

CHAPTER

XIII.

In peace thou art the gale of spring; in

war

the mountain-storm. OSSIAN.

WHO
making

can
a

States without visit the United Yernon, to Mount and, pilgrimage

of Washington,

at the grave moments

man

devoting

few

to the memory

of America's

greatest
was
ex

Like

the
a

impelled
amine

by

pilgrim in the East, I strong desire to view and

the spot, which contained the ashes I proceeded, Washington. consequently,

my

of
on

journey, without
of Alexandria,
on

loss

of

time.

Mount

Vernon
town

is situated about

eight miles from

the banks

the

of Potomac

River. kind

I readily accepted and attentive friend

the proposal
to

of
me

accompany morning,

thither, and started early one by the finest weather voured

fa

imaginable.
but

The

road

offered

no

other

interest

the

JOVIAL

QUAKER.

355

often travelled over reflexion that Washington it. Like probably other visiters, I should have made sad complaints of deep sand, heaps of stones, and holes in various places, if I had
not

been

fortunate

enough

to

have

lively

belong travelling companion, and agreeable ing to the Society of Quakers. Before I had an opportunity of becoming acquainted with I had, like many this gentleman, other Euro peans, entertained
sect.
an

erroneous

idea of that

It is something

so

common

with
a

us

to

attach

to

the

name

of

Quaker

certain de

and unsociableness, gree of stiffness,reserve, that, I candidly confess, I was not a little surprised and delighted to meet with an indi vidual, brimmed with a square-cut coat and broadhat, disposed to laugh and joke, and the faculty of making This and contented.
others

possessing him happy

as

all around gentleman,

same

well

as

belonging

to

the

sect,

whom
upon

I subsequently met at his house, me the impression, that a Quaker

a

left
can

be

merry as he may although

as

Lutheran

or

Catholic,
his

appear

little stiff at

think him a sin the world may I shall never for gular and reserved being. happy hours I spent in his get the many

meeting,

and

356

MOUNT

VERNON.

company

they

ble I passed Mount Vernon ington

a

among in America.

were

the most

agreea

still belongs

to the Wash

family,

and

is

now

in

the

hands

of

Mrs.
a

Washington,
relative

was

whose deceased of the General's.

husband
The
pro

perty requires large funds to keep it in repair, but yields nothing. This circumstance, coupled with frequent absence on the part of the lady, has had an injurious effect on the appearance in the time of Fields, which of the estate.

Washington
productive
sures are

un yielded large crops, are now The incloand filled with weeds. Gardens, in which all in ruins.

exotics
once

and fruit trees of both hemispheres hardly give an flourished, now idea of
the gar had one the effects

the splendour of former times ; even dener bore the aspect of a man who

foot in the grave.

of ague
was as

Labouring

under

and

other disorders, his countenance that scarcely yellow as the lemons

ripened

The decayed state under his care. also bespoke neglect : servants of the house sluggish, and as if aban and slaves appeared

doned

their mistress. ; even short, looked sombre

thing seemed
to remind
one

by

Every

thing,

in

the most

trifling

of the dissolution

of

the

great

proprietor.

No

husbandmen

MOUNT

VERNON.

357

faithful dog fro visible in the fields, no licked in the yard, not a single bird was heard in the groves, nor could the sound of a
were

Within solitary cattle-bell be distinguished. the house reigned only grief and sorrow ; the
room once
scene

occupied
of tears,

by

Washington
seemed
woe.*
on an never

was

still
cease

the

which

to

flowing

in this abode

of

The

house

is

built of wood,
to the

and stands Potomac.

eminence front
row

close

beautiful

The by
a

facing

the

stream

is embellished

of pillars,

supporting the
wall,

the

and

roof, which thus forms

beyond projects
an

open

corridor, climate, In front of

certainly very pleasant in a warm but not very tasteful to the eye.
this corridor wards the
is
a

sloping

river

and
a

to extending in a steep terminating

lawn,

hill,covered again appears

by

Below the hill thick wood. the Potomac, overspread with

sails, and

the opposite

shore

exhibits

hilly

and variegated country. The forms building main surrounding the house is
to it by
*

quadrangle,
each

a a

court-yard.
small

On

side of

wooden The

building,
windows

joined
are as

an

open

portico.

present Mrs. Washington, who only a few days previously Vernon a on arrived at Mount visit,had received the distressing intelligence of the death of her sister, a few moments before my
The

arrival.

358

MOUNT

VERNON.

small

those of ordinary garrets, and the door suitable for a small cottage. Inside the house I found only one which excited peculiar
as

object

interest, and

which

is contemplated,

no

doubt, I

with
mean

looks

of curiosity

by

every

visiter.

the key
as
a

sent

of the Bastille, which Lafayette immediately present to Washington, destruction

of that prison,
at

after the
time

the

of the French and

Revolution.

It is heavy,

a prison key strong, such as generally is ; the handle is in the form of a What a number of victims has corkscrew. from this key excluded all connexion with

clumsy,

the world

What

deeds sanguinary No individual on

of dark and multitude has it consigned to oblivion !

a

earth

was

certainly

better

of the Bas entitled to it after the overthrow liberty. tille than the champion of American

felt this, and disposed of it accord This former instrument ingly. of iniquity, of blood, and of torture, is now exhibited to the Lafayette world in a glass frame. his tomb. Washington I now stood near in a vault the was at first interred above
close to the ground, house is built, whence between surrounding
was one

eminence

on

which
was

the

the stream
trees.

visible

Although

this

of the

finest and

most

suitable spots

TOMB

OF

WASHINGTON.

359

in the neighbourhood,

his remains

were

lately

few hundred a grave, This rather ex yards south of the former. cited my surprise, for the present situation is near as so the former ; but Wash not good

removed

to

another

ington,

it appears,
a

and, with

view

selected this spot himself; to fulfilhis wishes, the rela

tions consented to the otherwise unpardonable a long time act of disturbing his ashes. It was
in contemplation
to
remove

them

to

Wash

ington, and place them under the dome of the Capitol, as those of Nelson are deposited un der the cupola ; but of St. Paul's in London his relatives have
proposal. be obliged
wise
not
as

Government
to purchase

yet acquiesced will, however,

Mount

in the
soon

Vernon

; other

the residence of Washington may possi bly fall into the hands of some mercenary fit to impose a think may who speculator,
certain

contribution

on

individuals
moreover,

desirous dispose
as

of seeing

the grave,

and,

perhaps monks

of the bones, do in Catholic

of

the

deceased,
with

countries

those

of saints and martyrs. The present sepulchre the

extremity

is built of brick, at

is of iron.

The door of a small hillock. In front, round it, and on the

bushes and
trees

grave

itself, grow

of various

360

TOMB

OF

WASHINGTON.

kinds,

but

mostly

cedars,

all

more

or

less

of travellers who mutilated by the thousands hither every year, and cannot resort resist

the

temptation
some

of carryingrelic from

to

their remote

homes How

Washington's

tomb.

dear

Missouri
in Maine, interest
:

! In these relics to Americans in Louisiana, in Florida and and they have the same value, the same
are even

in distant
are

Europe,

these green with

emotion

cedar
and

twigs

contemplated

yet what are they ? Com a mighty mon twigs of cedar ! Many monarch in the arms the of death, under slumbers respect.

And

pressure ages roll flower near pilgrim,

as

of
on

monument

without his grave

a

statues ; and and fragment or a single being disturbed by a

memento

of the deceased.
a

Pos
monu

terity seldom
ments:

sheds

tear

over

showy

you may

read in letters of gold records

deeds, but after-ages, and noble how to appreciate such records, will knowing The them. not remember marble perhaps
of virtue may
ness

but neither its white strike every one, inscription induces its golden the nor

to pause and to call to memory the wanderer brick tomb at Mount past. But, at the simple

multitude daily paying homage From the frozen regions to the deceased. of

Vernon,

seethe

QUAKER

WEDDING.

361

the orange-groves of Sicily, from to the land of the northern forests of Canada flock thither, to see the men the Patagonians, Lapland
to

last resting nal show,

no

place of Washington.

No

exter

Carrara

marble,

recording

heroic

deeds and unusual virtues, is to be found there. Of what use is the cold stone to such a man ? Every
nument.

noble bosom There

man,

is Washington's may

best

mo

tyrants

of

great

materials During

and for his life.

my
one

the

read the actions historian collect

residence

in

Alexandria
to to
was

this
the

time, I had

day

occasion

attend

of persons belonging wedding The ceremony of Friends. with all that simplicity which

the Society

conducted characterises

the sect, and took place at one of their meet forenoon at eleven ings, held every Thursday

On all ordinary occasions, it is not o'clock. to sit together, or even usual for both sexes
to enter

at the
one,

same

door ; but

on

an

extraor

dinary
has
a

like the present,

the

bridegroom

right to lead the bride by the hand, and to take his place by her side this was pro
"

bably

first and that this liberty was the

was

last time

in their

lives

allowed.
to

Neither the
"

dressed

as

if belonging

party Society
at-

of Friends,"

but

both

were

fashionably

362

QUAKER

WEDDING.

tired.
stance

I remarked
to
are
an

this unexpected
respectable

circum

elderly

Quaker.
he; "youth
"

"They and Not

both young,"

answered

go together." was a word uttered, during the space of hour, by any individual in the congrega an their hands tion : all had clasped together, wisdom
not

do

always

their eyes fixed on the floor. The immoveable like two statues, appeared and
inanimate,
at each

lovers and
ven

other's

side, without

turing passed

to

steal

around.
a

at any thing glimpse At length service was

that
over

and, upon
rose,

certain signal, the whole

meeting
towards

when

the bridegroom,

turning

the bride, asked in a loud voice if she would his wife, and fulfilall the obligations become The bride faithful spouse. incumbent on a
put nearly the
same

question

to

him,

after
con

which
tract,

both
which

parties signed
was

the marriage

elder Quakers. the instrument ; during congregation couple, with

of the read aloud by one Any one might then witness

which The dispersed. their

to

ceremony

the

parents,

new-married left the then honeymoon

in

meeting-house,

spend
some

the

travelling through

returning to New found I already winter

On

parts of the country. York, late in the fall,

amusements

in full

ITALIAN

OPERA

AT

NEW

YORK.

363

operation.
tions

Among
in vogue
men

the
was

then

recrea principal the Italian Opera.

Several

leading
course

in

the

higher

circles

had, in the
arrangements exclusively

of

the year,
an

for building

entered into Opera-house,

of

intended
It
was a

for the performance reasonably

Italian music. that, in

a

city with

dred which

and
a

thirty

population inhabitants, thousand

anticipated of two hun

of

Europeans, a are great proportion taste for the Italian school would sufficiently the expence of an Opera. prevail, to support
An enterprizing

individual

was

selected and

despatched gaging
return

to Europe,

vocal and to New York,

so

for the purpose of en instrumental artists. On his

in the autumn,

he found

the
soon

Opera-house
able
to

open

far ready, that he was it, as he hoped, under

new patronage, several with The house, built with some taste, operas. deserves the rank of the finest unquestionably States. The propor theatre in the United

distinguished

tions and

arrangements with
the

of the

interior have
an

been

calculated

ability of

expeparti for its

perienced
cular,

artist, and be

the

ceiling, in

cannot

beauty

and

sufficiently admired lightness.

of the
season,

In the

course

several operas

364

ITALIAN

OPERA

AT

NEW

YORK.

Gazza Ladra, : La namely performed, II Barbiere di Seviglia, La Donna del Lago,

were

Mathilde

di Shabran,

Gli Arabi

nelle Gallic,
in Ita

II Matrimonio lia.
Fanti

Segreto, and

and Bordogni both

// Turco
were

the
for
a

two

principal palm and

singers

contended The first had

the
fine

of prima

donna.

full voice, formed practice.

much

by good instruction and Bordogni, again, had a weak much might be made,
her the
ing-

contralto, of which method voice

was

being
not

though unobjectionable,
yet developed.

The
was

remain

artists, of whom

the company
no

composed,
to talent

had, in truth,
as

great
tenors

pretensions
were,

singers

:
a

both
severe

to

use

the

ex

pression of In a word,

critic, "very, execution

was

very

bad."
and

the

of Rossini's

Cimarosa's
might
were

masterpieces

far from

what

have

been expected,

and

the performers The

little above
was

mediocrity.

orchestra,

however,
That

good. Yorkers, the New

for music, doubt this
; but
season

in general,

have
not

real taste

is

thing
result

am

in per

clined

to

the
was

of the

formances

encouraging
was
new

certainly far from The house to the Italian corps.

than half

seldom
operas

more were

filled,although
performed
:

constantly

and

THEATRES

AT

NEW

YORK.

365 in
a

the manager,

the indefatigable

manager,

on stead of acquiring any thing bordering fortune, contracted, as report says, only heavy debt for his pains. Reasons were as

for this apathy to good the high price of admission, signed

in the formers,
some

music,

such

as

the depression
of the per

money-market,

mediocrity

"c.

These

may objections
are

have

claim
remove

to truth ; stillthey

insufficient
much
!"

to

the inference may

call out, by
"

that, however
Bravo

amateurs at each

! Bravissimo

air sung

Fanti

and
may

Bordogni, endeavour

and
to

however take

much

Fashion music

unappreciated protection, stillNew

an

York

its special is not yet ripe for

under

Italian Opera. Besides the

in the

Opera,

there

are

three
Bowery,

other and

theatres

city, the

Park,

Richmond highest
station

Hill.
among it seems

The
American
to

first formerly theatres,

ranked but this

defect its

have

lost by second

some

in the management.

The

devotes

boards of

almost

exclusively and
on

to the performance

national
as

dramas

plays,
some

particularly
well

such Indian

are

founded
The

known

story.

frequented speaking,

by the

last, again, lower classes.

is chiefly

Generally
at

American

performances,

least

366

THEATRICAL

PERFORMERS.

three-fourths

of

them,
on

consist the

of dramatic stage
:

pieces, first acted their merits

English the

of

this is not

With

regard to native for the most are, part, wretched productions, Christmas hurried juvenile often resembling
farces.
are

place to judge. dramas, they American

The

principal performers
Forrest,

in tragedy
"

Booth,

medy,

Hackett Drake

and and

in co Hamblin and Placide. Among the

actresses,

McClure
actors,

occupy

the

first rank. The the first two, are would,

the in most

tragic
not

particularly

deficient in talent, and countries, gather laurels on

are

stage : they from faults common Hackett masterly language

is already

not,

however,

exempt

to all English

performers. for his

of
:

known by

in Europe

delineation,
and
manners

mimickry,

the

of the West

of him, every

therefore, nothing can knows. Placide one

talent, but,
as
a

be said but what

comic

ability possesses actor, he has not

and
suf

ficient expression
sion. by he This

to be perfect in his profes

defect every

he

overdoing

to conceal endeavours part, but in the attempt

a

often descends

into

kind

but please none which can As a tragic actress, Mrs. Drake the American stage. Possessing

of vulgarity, the lower classes.

is
a

star

on

considerable

THEATRICAL

PERFORMERS.

367

natural

talent, without

having

enjoyed the

good models, as the greater part of her time has been spent in the West, she is really an of admiration.
opportunity

of studying

object

She is completely
sing every infuse so much

mistress of the art of expres passion by her features, and can

warmth

into her performance, of Juliet, for actually

con

that when she plays the part instance, the spectator would ceive that he had before him
ginal whom

the Mrs.

very

ori

she with

represents.

McClure
I
never

performs
saw

dignity
the

and

force.

her

tread
to

stage

without and

imparting leaving
a

interest

her

performance,
on

deep

impression

the auditory.

Among the

foreign theatrical artists who visited States during United my residence, the
were

following
Mr.

and

Mrs.

distinguished particularly Mr. Charles Wood, Kemble,

Kemble, Mrs. Austin,
or

Miss
Power.

Fanny

and
seen

Mr. these

Whoever performers, The Woods'

has

heard

eminent

will certainly

never

forget

them.
the

Hawthorn Julia

and
of the

Rosetta*,
Kembles,

Mercutiof and Austin's Ariel ",and

In the Opera of " Love f " Romeo and Juliet." | " The Hunchback."
*

Power's

Pandeen

O'Raf-

in

Village."

"

"

The

Tempest."

368

FINE

ARTS

IN

AMERICA.

ferty

*,

are

masterpieces

which

acquire addi
I have

tional value by time. The fine arts in America fore observed,

are,

as

be

Want of stillin their infancy. is, no doubt, one of the prin encouragement of the slow progress they have cipal causes in in comparison their advance with made
Europe
artists

during
are,

the few

same

period.

Young

with

exceptions,

have

recourse

to portrait-painting,

obliged to in which a
of distinc

few have tion.

more

arrived

at

some

degree historical

Landscapes
scarce

and
taste

pieces
not

are

; the

for them

being

the public sets less value upon them This is particularly than they often deserve. If the picture in the latter branch. the case

general,

does

not

represent

scripture

majorityof
what

spectators

the subject, invariably object to in the dress of the

they call impropriety

figures, Adam
were

"c.

Two
Eve,

paintings, before
and
towns

representing
Fall,

and

after the
of the

exhibited could only

in most insure

Union,
being this pious
come

and

spectators
; but,
even

by

called moral
veil, they
matrons,
were

paintings

under
many

condemned
that
a

by

show

alleged their daughters who

*
"

they had

to

distinguished
Luck."

per-

Born

to

Good

AMERICAN

LITERATURE.

369
to

formance, make

but

by

no

means

with

view

observations on the symme This form. try and proportions of the human is also the case with statuaries, who are com
anatomical

pelled either to confine themselves exclusively to the lower department of their art, that of making busts, or to settle in foreign countries, where they
the

may
young*

live by

their

rising America, of taste for the fine arts symptoms here and there discovered ; and, if wealth are increases in the same proportion as the popu
and
lation, it may

With

profession. in generation

be

inferred that The

are, as

new

era

in

the arts is at hand. artists

now

living

principal American painters, Trumbull,

Sully, Alston,
Dunlap
;
as

Morse,

Harding,

Weir,

sculptors, Goodenow and American literature derives its best works from England. Independently of the injurious
effect which this produces it has another also ances,
"

and Frazee.

on

native perform

that of forming the It is taste exclusively for English literature. to only lately that the learned have begun think of directing the national taste into a different channel, by translations from other has very An American languages. author littlehopes of being known, unless his works
come

to the
II.

country via England,

after having
B
B

VOL.

370

NEWSPAPERS.

been
But

first printed, read, and praised there. it must hence be inferred that the not States
are

United

without

individuals
themselves

who
to

solely and

exclusively

devote
are

literature ; of these
enumerate

there

numbers.

To

them,

and

to criticise their works,

time than these limits require more I will only mention few names, a permit. which stand at the head of an almost endless

would

list,and known

great

proportion

to the reading

of which are well : portion of Europeans

Washington

Irving,

Cooper,

Bryant,

Mar

Sedge wick, shall, Dwight, ney, Flint, "c.

The newspapers
of the

Paulding,

Sigour-

in America

form of the

an

essen

tial part

literature

country.

Their

great

make States, there

one

circulation enables the editors to In known. the United themselves

are

at

thousand
of

two

present hundred

not

fewer

than
*,

daily
the

papers

exclusively

periodicals,

number

of

which the
"

is very considerable,

North

American

which and among Review," edited in a occupies

masterly

manner,

deservedly

the

first place.
their columns

A number

of these papers
to

devote

literary produc from tions ; others, again, only give extracts exclusively
H

Vide "American

Almanac

for 1834."

NEWSPAPERS.

371 That works. either for want of far from large

published

and

unpublished

portion of the citizens, who, from means, living too or

cities, cannot procure

themselves,

obtain,

the latest productions however, the through

a medium of these newspapers, superficial knowledge of them. Without a would periodical press, America

never

have

made

the progress
to make

and

stillcontinues
so

she has made, ; for, in so exten

sive,

peopled

little cultivated and comparatively discoveries a should country, how

and diffused ? otherwise be generally known Nor the remote citizen be able to would judge for himself of the Government and its is influence of the journals The measures. truly astonishing there is a degree
:
even

in the

larger

cities

of anxiety

and

impatience

their appearance. until the newspapers make To many they are real oracles, whose veracity
none

dare
some

question.

Every

journalbelongs
principles it have so per

to

political party, whose many

on

advocates ; and fect a reliance

ness

persons

and correct be prevail of its views, that they cannot

to read

the clearness

ed upon

which espouse the In many small opposite side of the question. places in the country, it is not unusual to see the papers
B

372

NEWSPAPERS.

the political sentiments by the

the

of the people governed party,

which confirm

journals of

one

inhabitants

in their opinions

by

always

In the larger cities, keeping* up party-spirit. is considerable, a simi where the population lar monopoly cannot well take place ; but, by

the

number

of subscribers,

pretty correct
opi

calculation nion The and

of the general may be made feeling on the spot. number of newspapers

greatest

and and

in New periodicals are published Boston. In 1833, they amounted

to eighty-one,

York

in Boston

and

in New
are

York

to sixty-five ;

in this calculation
cals, published vals. In New Morning
"

not
or

included

quarterly York,

periodi inter at longer

the

"

the newspaper entitled En York Courier and New

quirer

of sub number greatest in the year 1834, to four scribers, amounting, The three hundred. thousand sub annual
scription
was

has

the

ten

dollars.
population
of the

According

to the present

United
is
one

States, it may
newspaper

be calculated that there for every ten thousand which

other

eight

hundred

proportion

persons, than in any

greater country in the

is

world. On the 25th of November,

1833, the fiftieth

TRADES'

UNION.

373
of New

anniversary

of the evacuation
was a

York
parade

by

the

English

celebrated procession

by

of the military, and

ent

of the differ The

trades through

the principal streets.

latter ceremony was not without effect. Each trade had its particular ensigns or colours, To headed by the elder members. and was my

great

surprise, I did not

see

single indi whose

ap

vidual
pearance

indifferently dressed,
did not
After
announce

and the

enjoyment of
the customary
or

comfort.

having
entered

made
a

exhibition, they
where
an

church
was

appropriate hailed with

nature,"

speech

chapel, delivered,

which was In human

"

delight by all present.

"

said the speaker,

reigns
to avail

selfish principle, which

induces

men

themselves

of the industry

of others, without in return

; this

giving

corresponding

share

to aristocracy and principle conduces In laws this country, the sion.

oppres do not yet

of pro
a

acknowledge progressive perty, which has produced

as a

any

privileged

class ;

and unequal
no

accumulation

titled and

possibly anticipate, baneful effect nearly the same hereditary aristocracy. This checked by the formation the labouring classes, for
to them
a

law could

evil could
of
a

only be
between

union

the purpose

of insuring

reasonable

374

THE

MILITIA

SYSTEM.

remuneration
act

for their labours.

to aristocracy, to effect
a

To

counter
a

this tendency
of monopoly,
to

to prevent

kind
in

greater who
are

equality
unem

society,
to

assist those

ployed,
the

raise

the

character

and

improve
a

situation
to
"

of the

working rights

classes ; in
as men

word,

citizens

protect their this is the very

and

of object

this union."
were

Of

different description

the

processions who

of the militia and

its opponents,

had

formed

society

with

view

to

The laws ridicule the whole militia system. that American citizens, with few excep enjoin tions, shall contribute to the defence of the The militia, as it is called, which is country. conscription, has equivalent to the European formed itself into several small companies, at Free-born drilled by their officers. times Americans are over not satisfied and above

with

an

institution

which and

them subjects

to

slavish

obedience,
means
so

therefore

endeavour,

by every system

in their power,

to exhibit the

to com a light, as unfavourable if possible, to relinquish it pel Government,

in

altogether,

or

at

least

to

make

some

more

suitable regulations. Another attempt of this nature

was

now

carried

into effect by

procession

of indivi-

BURLESQUE

PROCESSION.

375

duals, fantastically dressed,

their

head.

"

The

parade

chief at of fantasticals of
newspapers
scene,
"

having

yesterday,"

New

York,

says one of the in describing the

"

of
an

was

exhibition sui generis like it before on earth, neath it. It wras Babylon kitchen
"

there
or

never

was

aught under

in the waters

broken

up

"

the whole

cabinet

of Beelzebub

in insurrection

perfect

kaleidoscope

of absurdities,

and

magazine
Every
one,

of monstrosities." from the general

wore
a

down

to

the

simple each

musician,

other
as

in appearance.

uniform, There

all unlike a Don was

"

Quixote
binson

well
as

as

Sancho
as
a

Panza

Ro

Crusoe
a

well

Jack

Downing.

To
or

give draw

correct

description of this carnival,

obscurity
all the ridiculous

from \vhich

figures

formed

the

members

of

this

be impos procession, would sible. Suffice it to say, that the tout ensemble afforded a hearty laugh to all the citizens of caricature-like

New

York
no
was

; and

there
or

did, for
system The
amounts

change

all the good it relaxation in the militia ceased

effected by this exhibition. militia in the million

one

present
to
one

United
hundred

States
and

three

sixteen thousand The

hundred

and

fifteen men.

regular army,

again, consists ofsixthou-

376
four hundred hundred and
seven

TAXES.

sand
three
one

and

twelve

men are

; of whom

thousand

ninety-three hundred and

two

cavalry,

artillery, and three thousand twenty-five from

eighty-eight hundred and

who, of Sep

infantry ; besides
to

recruits,

the 1st of January

1833,
were

the 30th
at two

tember,
and

computed

thousand

thirty-six
direct
to the

*.

No States

taxes

are

Federal
the

paid in the United Government ; but it is

arising from by
an

supported
customs,

by which

revenue

the
in

has, in later times,

to
so

creasing
a sum,

trade, amounted
that not

considerable

the whole of the but also by it, national debt has been liquidated the current of the year, always on the expences only almost increase,
Thus

have

been

discharged
one

by

its

aid.f
to

it is free to every

in America

contribute

to the maintenance

Government, The

either

by small
from
towns

of the Federal large sums. or

are

contributions larger than from

naturally

clined to think
the proportion
*

the country, and that the former are

one

am

in

nearly

in

of

and

half to the latter ;

statement

an It may Jiere be interesting to make approximate United States and that of Sweden : of the army of the
UNITED STATES.
.

SWEDEN.

Population. Army

13,000,000 6,412

Population, Army

nearly

3,000,000 32,694

f The

expences

for the Federal Government

itself, without taking

LOCAL

TAXES.

377
to

it is, however,
any

impossible

degree
a

of accuracy.

On

this with the other hand,

state

there is

direct property-tax

in favour

State in which
of the the
city
or

the citizen resides, or he is settled. town where these

funds
are

of the in favour In the

country,

applied
to

to

maintenance

of public

roads,

all possible of

internal improvements,

to the remuneration

the clergy, to the building

the towns
to

of schools, "c.

In

again,

the

revenue

is appropriated

the

embellishment
to

of

the

city, in
as

some

places
case

the building where

of schools,

in the

at

Boston,

the authorities

of the

city have set forty thousand

new

schools.

year, the sum of aside, for one dollars for the erection of two The in New have, York taxes
owing,

of late years, been rather considerable,

into account
were

the annual payment

in extinction of the National Debt,

under
MONROE.
Dollars.

Cents.

1822 1823

1824
1825 1826

1827
1828 1829 1830 1831 1832

1833

378
in part,
to

LOCAL

TAXES.

the

extra

charges

to

which

the

city

was

subject

during

the prevalence

of the

cholera, and

of streets partly to the widening of every kind, which were and improvements in the midst indispensable of a considered

dense
stance,
two

population.
a

In
no

Cedar

Street, for in
one on

tax

of

less than
was

thousand the proprie expence

of
a

hundred of two

dollars

laid

tor

houses
the
street

to to

defray the

the

widening

distance

of few

hundred
This
towns.
on
on

yards.
taxation varies, however,
in different

In Pennsylvania in
a

it is principally laid

real estate, and

very small

proportion

floating capital.
is far from

Although

taxation

being

this mode of in equity, founded

it has, nevertheless, in that part, been attended it has induced as with good results, inasmuch
a

of capitalists to settle there ; great number has been advan and their large expenditure the lower classes. tageously circulated among
is not

This all are

the

case

in Massachusetts,

where

taxed alike, and the imposts

on

fall equally property

;

heavy
but

real estate

and

on

personal

has been, that many consequence capitalists have quitted the State, for they the
dollars five hundred here paid one thousand in taxes, whereas in Pennsylvania the assess-

LOCAL

TAXES.

379

ment
or

would

not

amount

to

more

than

thirty

forty dollars. by
that
men

This

assessment

is annually

made for

appointed They they

by

the
tax

Legislature the
them

purpose.
to

citizens
to be

according*
worth.
are

what

consider high

Complaints
heard
a

of too
of, because

assessment

seldom

the complainant
to state
on

would,
oath

in such

case,

be compelled

the actual make such

amount
a

of his property.

Rather

than

disclosure
to
a

to the world,

the
at
an

Americans hazard,

submit
if not
too

taxation This

assessed
explains

high. repeated

observation,
no

often is it
more

by strangers,

that the

where

difficult to find out

an

real

property States

of

individual

than

in

the

United

of North

America.

CHAPTER
"

XIV.
"

Private credit is wealth the feather public honour is security that adorns the royal bird supports his flight ; strip him of his and you fix him to the earth. plumage, JUNIUS.

OF all the events that occurred in the United States, during of two years, residence my
there
was none a

which greater

created

greater

sensa

tion, caused
tween
two

degree

of bad

feeling be
each

parties already

excited against

other, and

had

more

important

results, than
on

the remarkable

contest

carried the Bank

by

Presi

dent

Jackson

against

States,
personal

occasioned,
animosity
and

of the United by in a great measure, to the institution and its

will figure in history by

president, the
name

which

it already

bears, namely,

"Jackson's
in

responsible

experiment."
this
correct

But,

order and and

to

understand
convey
a

subjectthoroughly,
idea of the attack

to

de

fence of the contending

parties, it is necessary the present

for
a
mo-

that I should

abandon

BANKING

SYSTEM.

381

ment,

and

retrace,

succinctly,

occurrences

of

former

times. of credit

It is to the system

that the Ame

small degree, indebted for the incredible progress which industry, in various

ricans

are,

in

no

branches,
tem
was

has made

in the country.

This

sys
the of

already

in full operation
:

during

dominion
the
war

of the British

at the conclusion

it became stillmore of Independence, Republic, from an aug in the new prevalent

mented

spirit of speculation

the inhabitants. bers, and them

Banks
were

were ever
no

the part of formed in num

on

the States

ready

to grant
or

charters. these

Subjectto
banks
soon

control began
to

in

spection,
notes

issue

to any

amount

they pleased, and

inun

dated

the country with their paper. Abuses, often repeated, created distrust
public mind, which shortly

in

the

afterwards
these

produced
unsafe

the

effect of
one was

overthrowing

establishments, Bank

after another.

A
far

kind
back

of National
as

instituted,
"

as

of North

1781, under the name of the America," but it did not answer intended
was

Bank the

purpose

; and,

in 1790,

the

United

States' Bank
gested
ment

formed,

upon

by Alexander
at

Hamilton. held
a

the plan sug The Govern opinion

that

time

different

382

ADVANTAGE

OF

NATIONAL

BANK.

as

to the

usefulness

of National

Banks

from

by the present entertained The Secretary of Finance tion. that

"

Administra respectfully

reports,"

says

Hamilton,

in his well-known
of the
a

Report
13th

to the House

of Representatives,

of December,
a

1790,

''that, from
is
an

con

viction that

National

Bank

institution

of primary
ministration

importance

to the prosperous

ad be of
con

the

of the finances, and would greatest utility in the operations

nected with the support of the public credit, his attention has been drawn to devising- the
plan of such place, in the lowing of
or
a are an same

institution," "c.

In another
:
"

Report,

he says

The

fol

Bank.

among 1. The

the principal augmentation

a

advantages

capital of facility to the Government

niary

productive

of the active 2. Greater country.

in obtaining
pecu

aids, especially in sudden

emergencies.

3. The

facilitating of the payment of taxes, firmly persuaded," "c." "I am says again Mr. Taney, Secretary to the Treasury, in his Re
port to Congress

of the 3rd of Dec. 1833,

a

"that
mo

the existence nopoly people

of such

powerful
to

moneyed

is dangerous

the

liberties of the

and to the purity of our Further: Bank tutions." "A

States
is not necessary,

political insti

of the United either for the fiscal

UNITED

STATES'

BANK.

383

operations

of the

Government,

or

the public

convenience."

The Bank made

Charter
expired
for
a

granted to the United States' in 1811. Application was for

an

renewal

additional the ground

period, that
a

but Congress

refused
was

it,on

similar institution
to
a

moneyed
was

considered as tending At that time the aristocracy. divided

between
two

country
who took

parties,

question as a subject in the solution of which they intended to have for life or death. Three a struggle years,
however,
man*

up the Bank

had

hardly

elapsed, before the

same

the

had so who Bank proposed

a new

zealously fought against to Congress the forma

as

tion of

Bank,

the only

means

of

re

storing Treasury
helpless pressive

public from

confidence,
an

and

saving

the
even

situation. lesson

and embarrassing had been the "Such by

a

im

taught says

very

brief
in his

but
re

fatal experience," port of the 13th

McDuffie,

of April, 1830, to the House that the very institution of Representatives, had been so recently denounced, and which
"

by rejected

the Republican
by
a

recommended
tion,
was
*

party, being now Administra Republican both branches

of

carried

through

Mr. Madison,

at, that time

President.

384

UNITED

STATES'

BANK.

Congress^

as

Republican

measure,

by

an

overwhelming The party."

majority of
minor

the
were

Republican
no

Banks

longer

in specie ; their stock payments able to make None of their of paper increased every day.
notes

had

Bxed

value,

some

bringing

only

Bankrupt eighty, sixty, -'even fifty per cent. and loud cies followed in close succession, system of the whole Banking condemnations
were

every

where

heard.

In this emergency,
was

present United tuted : it commenced the Its head

States' Bank
its operations

insti
in 1817.

Philadelphia, but it has are -quarters In in every part of the Union. Banks Branch States, however no place within the United distant, is
a

higher

per cent, paid for a fixed at thirty-five millions of Its capital was States owe onedollars, of which the United fifth. According
funds
to
an

quarter note issued by this Bank.*

discount

than

one

Act

of Congress,
were

received by the deposited in this Bank,

Treasury without

all to be
:

interest

for

these

of the privileges, the Bank States had only to pay a bonus United of The collec one million and a half of dollars. therefore tion of the funds of the nation was

exclusive

to be effected upon
*

the plan, that the Treasury

Vide McDuffie's report above referred to.

APPLICATION

TO

RENEW

THE

CHARTER.

385

department larger
cessary
sum,

should
at
a

never

retain in its coffers

was

time, than

for actual and current : to be lent to the nation. the surplus funds were Two years had scarcely passed, before the country

absolutely ne disbursements

already felt the salutary effect of this increased with useful institution. Commerce incredible rapidity; agriculture, and every branch
of industry, Debt
was

seemed

to

flourish ; the

gradually liquidated, with perfect ease to Government; confidence, within and without, became consolidated ; and the currency was placed upon ing. With nearly twenty
solid foot millions in specie, of silver and gold in
a

National

more

(the aggregate America,)Bank

six millions five hundred
were

stock
notes

to the amount

put

of eightyin circulation, besides

millions in private notes, private Bank thing rested on con notes, ",c. Every fidence ; and of this the new Bank in was Such was the situation perfect possession.
of the country,

when

motion

was

Congress

to

renew
on

the Charter the 3rd

in made of the Bank,

expires which The proposal and

was

adopted

1836. of March, by both Houses,

only required the assent of the President however, was to become a law ; his sanction, to Congress refused, although, in his message
VOL
II.

386

REMOVAL

OF

GOVERNMENT

DEPOSITS.

1831, he states that he of the 6th December, had resolved to leave the investigation of this
matter

in the hands

of

an

and

its Representatives.
on

enlightened people On the 14th July,

this

1832, his veto

the Bill followed ; but

not

death-blow
over,

was

enough

he wished,

more

to make

sure

of its extinction, and

issued

accordingly to Mr. Duane, the then Secretary the Go of the Treasury, an order to remove from deposits the Bank vernment of the This gentle States to State Banks. United
man,

not
a

ing

in conceiving himself justified adopt step, in direct opposition to his own opinion

conscientious

The resignation. placed him by Mr. tation, acquiesced

and views, tendered President immediately

Taney,
in the

his
re

who,
measure

without

hesi

determined

upon. On

the

1st of October,

1833,

the

removal

of of the deposits took place from the Bank the United States to thirty-six different State
Banks, the with small capitals, and States in which they were chartered

by

the month

of September,

In situated. had in cir the Bank

of eighteen mil culation notes to the amount lion, four hundred thirteen thousand, and
two

hundred
:

cents

dollars, and eighty-seven its discounts at the same period

seven were

CONSEQUENCES

OF

THAT

MEASURE.

387

sixty-two million, six hundred and fifty-three thousand, three hundred and fifty-ninedollars,
fifty-nine cents,
the

which,

after the removal

to

of

deposits,

was

reduced

two ninety-four thousand, dollars, ninety-three cents.

were

sixty million, hundred and two

In October, there

nine mil stillin the vaults of the Bank lion, eight hundred and sixty-eight thousand, four hundred and thirty-five dollars, fifty-

eight cents, lion, at the

in deposits.
same

The
was

amount ten

of bul

million, six hundred and sixty-three thousand, four hun dred and forty-one dollars, fifty-one cents. The on the of this measure, consequence
part of the President, both in the opinion of many

period,

uncalled-for and felt. He had adopted experienced to his according any sponsibility upon therefore, fell the
Bank
was

soon arbitrary, was it without consulting

man

or
own

practical words, himself:

; he

had,
re

taken
on

the

general obliged, in consequence

alone, discontent. The

him

duced
counts.

amount

of a re at its disposal, to limit its dis

again, although in possession of the funds of the nation, did not to discount more than formerly, being venture
uncertain
to

The

State Banks,

how

long they

might
too

be permitted
extensive
c c

keep

the deposits ; and

an

388

DECLINE

OF

CREDIT.

accommodation,

they

sibly place them in a feared as they had, in the Bank

conceived, might dilemma, the more

pos to be

of the United

States, to deal with a powerful opponent. Each party placed itself in a state of de fence, determined to guard against surprise
in
were of attack, and thus large sums The from circulation. of withdrawn wheel its revolutions less began to make credit soon

case

Pressure regularly. first felt in New was

in

the

money

market
and Phi

York,
one

Boston,
to

ladelphia, where per month

was

spread all over to Louisiana only

to

per cent, paid : in a short time it also the country, and from Maine
one

from

three

voice

was

heard

"

Woe

About of all this evil!" sixty York, bankruptcies took place in New and other cities in the Union had their proportion. Several Banks stopped payment, and thou the author Public funds fell from ruined. sands were forty to fifty per cent., and all kinds of goods in value. Factories were depreciated became shut

up, and
a

workmen
picture

discharged.
in comparison

This

is

indeed
that

sorry

with

by the United States only a presented before this crisis. The few months currency in confusion, was commerce of the country lingering, manufactories
were

stopped,

and

HOSTILITY

OF

THE

PRESIDENT.

389

agricultural than before. peared,

always

was of far less value produce In a word, confidence had disap

calamity

stood
to

at
enter
were

every

threatening

other door, De the house.

sent to Wash

putations ington

of all classes

to entreat

the President
At
was

to desist from

his ruinous
them

experiment.

first he received
the
case

graciously,

which

deputation New

of merchants

with a and traders sent from

York,

with

petition

thousand
angrily
them

persons
;* and

; others

signed by six he dismissed rather

refused
to

at

last

he

receive of the

at all, and

to hear

the complaints

people,

f
however,
met
on

Congress,
cember, sage

the

2nd

of De
mes

1833 ; and

the President,
on

in his

to both

Houses,

the 3rd of December, in the

of the Treasury, and also the Secretary his Report, were not dilatory in defending removal of the deposits.

Among

advanced
*

in the last mentioned

things many document, I

the deputation from Baltimore he used the following lan Sir ; go to the monster, come Ni not to me, guage : Relief, Sir ! Biddle ! Sir, I could have destroyed the monster in thirty cholas days ; but the President would not do it. Andrew Jackson lives yet to put his foot upon the head of the monster, and crush him to the The mammoth has bled you. I put him down, Sir, dust. When institutionswill meet the wants the other moneyed all of the people. to talk to me It is folly in the extreme thus, Sir ! I would rather undergo the tortures of ten Spanish Inquisitions, than that the de
To
"
"

be re-chartered." posits should be restored, or the monster f This was the case with a deputation from Boston.

390

COMPLAINTS

AGAINST

THE

BANK.

have

selected

the

followingis to

"

The

Act

in

corporating
a one

the Bank
between

be

contract

the United

as regarded States, of the

part, and these

As

the stockholders, of the other. have agreed that the stockholders

to the Secretary

power

reserved
over

of the Trea

sury
to

the deposits particular

of the

shall not be restricted order, of the Treasury, to be deposited

as
a

any

contingencies,

the

therefore, directing elsewhere,

violation

Secretary
money
event

the
can

public in no
the

be regarded

of
nor

contract

with

the

stock

holders,
by

impair

the charter.

any right secured to them It is, besides, not necessary be unsafe

in order to

that the deposits the justify

should The

removal.

Bank

may

be

per

fectly solvent, and prepared to meet promptly all demands upon it ; and yet the public inter ests may require the deposits to be with drawn." The
principal

complaints

advanced
.

by the Secretary

A : 1 were of the Treasury on the part of of the discounts curtailment the State towards the Bank, and its conduct

Banks,

by which

they and

were

obliged

to confine
was

their operations,

the whole

country

2. The great money-pressure. Directors appointed exclusion of the five Bank 3. The attempt by Government. of the Bank

subjected

to

DEFENCE

OF

THE

BANK.

391

to influence the elections, by circulating large

sums,
ence

and thereby

to acquire

political influ

in the country.

In

reply

to

these

accusations,

the

Bank by its
its

endeavoured
its directors, foundation, attention
to

to prove,

in

Report
the

signed

that, from

it had

period of exclusively devoted

to the improvement

of the currency,

the

maintenance

of public

credit, and

to

of every facility to trade ; that granting had already, the Government at Washington the
as

far back

as

1829, attempted
; but

to

make

the

Bank

its organ

miscarried,

vengeance have been the Bank

case

that, when this scheme the Government vowed hatred and against the Bank ; that it would
to attack

the duty of the President

legally before competent in judges, he considered that it had committed any

infraction of its privileges : now, it is himself by the removal who has broken the contract, of the

deposits
avows,"

without

legal the

cause. same

"

The

President
"

continues

Report, passed
a

that, although

the last Congress

bill re-chartering the

own same

this very Bank Congress, a few months that

; although

ago, at his

invitation, declared

posits Bank
;

might

be
a

safely
new

the public de in this continued

many of

although

Congress,

392

DEFENCE

OF

THE

BANK.

whose
since

members his
own

by chosen election, is about

are

the
to

people
meet

in

in existence ninety days, and will continue for two years ; although, at the end of those Congress, fresh from the two years, a new

people, will meet

before

the charter

expires
the

yet, notwithstanding sident, declares, on

that
matter

all this, he,

Pre

his shall

own

responsibility,
; no removed has of the Bank

the

deposits

be

whether

the conduct bad, and

no

been

good or deposits are

matter

whether

the

safe

or

unsafe;

and

accordingly
remove
remove

he dismisses
them, and
At

the officerwho another

refuses to who will

appoints
the end

them."
ment,

of this interesting is said been

:
"

docu
unex

the following
violence has

war

of

ampled Bank.

waged defends called

against itself.

the Its

The
are

institution what
are

assailants

politicians ;
an

and, when
swer
are

statements

which
to

they cannot
country,

presented

the

they

re

proach

the Bank

with
never

interfering

in politics.

It has, however,
est degree

interfered in the slight

never

in politics, and

influenced

or

sought
be

to influence

elections ; but
menaces or

it will not of

deterred

by

the

clamours in defend

politicians from

executing

its duty

ing

itself."

DISCUSSIONS

IN

CONGRESS.

393

Several
country,
were

of the such
as

in the principal statesmen Clay, Webster, Calhoun, opinion

as

of the

same

to

the Bank

and add,

their speeches those

in the Senate, in the

of Binney

and, I may Lower House,

operated powerfully on public opinion against in We are the President and his cabinet, the midst of a revolution," says Clay, in his
"

speech rapidly

"a

revolution

hitherto bloodless, but

a

tending*

towards

total change of the govern

of

the pure
ment,

republican

character

and to the concentration of all power The general cur in the hands man. of one rency of the country, the life-blood of all its
is in the
most

business, universal

imminent confusion.

danger
The

of

disorder

and

of internal improvement the

veto

lies crushed

power beneath

of the

Was the removal of the President. deposits in conformity with the con
and
laws of the

stitution The

United

States ?

of the United States in requires that the public deposits be made It also gives the Secretary of the its vaults.
charter of the Bank

Treasury
The

to power Secretary is at

remove

them;

the head

and why? of the finances

Weekly reports are made of the Government. He is to report to Con to him. by the Bank gress, annually ; and to either House, when-

394

DISCUSSIONS

IN

CONGRESS.

he shall be called upon. He is the Sen tinel of Congress, the Agent of Congress, the He has been Representative of Congress.
ever

created
scribed

by and
to

Congress.
has

Congress
his

has

pre

defined
to

duties.
not
as

He

is

required sident.
sentative

report is put

them,
us

to
our

the Pre

He
:

there by

Repre

he is required to remove the de they shall be in danger, and we posits when he does this, he is not in session : but, when the fact, with required to report to Congress his reasons for it. Was for the the urgency removal of the deposits so great that he could
not

wait

sixty days, until the assembling

?

of

Congress

admits that they were per fectly safe in the Bank ; that it promptly met it ; and that it faithfully upon every demand Why then, not, all its duties. performed
await

He

the

arrival

of Congress
of aiming

The

Bank

has been
ence

accused

at political influ
can

in the

country.

Who
"

doubt,"

con

tinues

Clay, ironically,
is
a

that

this ambitious

corporation

dency
Bank

The

candidate for the next presi he had the President thought and that he could break The Bank has avowed
its purpose
to

in his power,
at
a

it down

openly and itself on all suitable

word. declared

defend
what

occasions.

And,

DISCUSSIONS

IN

CONGRESS.

395
of being

is still more

provoking*,
as

instead
it

bankrupt,

was

expected, than

seems

that

it

got more to do with."

"

has

money

it is known

what

the and Secretary has not yet found places of deposit for the public moneys, as substitutes for the States' Bank. United He has not even yet
months

Three

have

elapsed,

received
selected
be
more

the
as

charters

from

all the

Banks thing-

places of deposit. than

to

Can

any

improvident
undertake knowing

that the

Secretary
Banks,

should

contract

with

without

to contract venture to

and capacity power by their charters ? that he should deposit

a

their

the

people's

money

in

Banks,*

without

full knowledge

of every

thing respecting their actual condition ? The people of the American eyes and the hopes They feel are anxiously turned to Congress.
that
they have been

deceived

and

insulted ;

In the United States, there are, ifI mistake not, more than three York has eighty-two, Banks : of these, the State of New hundred dollars. The proportion of with a capital of about thirty millions of dollar. Sixtyis as seven to notes in these Banks cents to one silver " itis called, the system Safety Fund," as nine of them belong to the is to require of each Bank an annual tax of one per cent, of which fund is created, which, in case a its capital. By these means on of its debts ; failure of any Bank, is appropriated to the payment the of fund is finally divided should this application not be necessary, the This sounds very well on paper ; but the ex the Banks. among Space does not permit me to point out ecution is rather hazardous. it to consequences attending this system : suffice all the dangerous
*

396

DISCUSSIONS

IN

CONGRESS.

their confidence

trayed
see
a

; and

abused ; their interests be They their liberties in danger. alarming

man's

rapid
in

and
one

concentration

of all
that, of
ex
man

power

hands.

They

see

by the the
erted
alone

exercise

of the

positive

authority
power
one

Executive,
over

and

his

negative
\vill of

Congress,
and is no

the

prevails,

laws question will Congress pass, but, what will the Executive The veto ? not symptoms premonitory of despotism do are upon us ; and, if Congress
not

The

the governs longer what

Republic.

apply

an

instantaneous

and

effective
on, mean,

remedy,
and and
we

the fatal collapse shall die

"

come will soon ignobly die ! base,

slaves abject
"

"

the

scorn

and

contempt
!"

of mankind

unpitied,

unwept,

unmourned
after
an

In consequence

of this, and

unusu

ally long debate on declared the Senate

this important
twice, and

question, the last time

say, that, if the United States' Bank, which kept all other Banks in order, had not existed, those which stand under the control of the Safety Fund would not only have destroyed each other by too great issue of notes, which would have deteriorated in value, but ruined an the whole country by the disappearance of metallic currency, to make " for a great proportion of paper money. I have great doubts, room if doubts they may be called," says Mr. Calhoun, in his speech in the Senate of the 13th of January, 1834, " as to the soundness and I have great tendency of the whole system, in all its modifications fears that it will be found hostile to liberty and the advances of fatally hostile to liberty in our the country, where civilization svstem exists in the worst and most dangerous form."
"

DISCUSSIONS

IN

CONGRESS.

397

by

by

that the reasons great majority, the Secretary of the Treasury

of the deposits
were

assigned for the

removal

insufficient, and

should be restored to the Attempts States. Bank were of the United in the Senate to renew the repeatedly made
that these charter lutions House of the United
to

funds

States' Bank,
were

and

reso

that

effect

sent

to

; but

the government and

party therefore It
was,

the other there had

still the

ascendency,

rejected
however,

the proposal this

of the Senate.
alone

which subject

absorbed
months

the atten
; tillthe

tion of Congress

for several
were

Bank
room

and for
a

its affairs

still

more

forgotten, to make important question

"

the violent infraction of the laws the

constitution
"

by
real

the

President which Calhoun,

himself.
now

and is What
the
"

question

agitates

country?"
answer,

tive

in his speech; I says it is a struggle between the Execu departments Legislative and of the
"

government
the

existence
or

struggle, not in relation to but which, Con of the Bank,

a

gress

the President,

should the

have

the power
con

of creating trol
men over

Banks,

and

consequent

the currency
money,

of the country. down

;

With
Roman
money

and

Caesar struck

liberty at the battle of Philippi

with

398

THE

SENATE

AND

THE

PRESIDENT.

and

corrupt
to

partisans,

great

effort is

now

making

choke and stiflethe voice of Ame the deed shall be done, rican liberty. When the revolution will be completed ; and all the Republic, in like manner, be of our powers
in the President, consolidated ated by his dictation."*

and

perpetu

On

the

28th

of March,

1834,

the

Senate
had
con

declared

solemnly
a

that

the

President

assumed
ceded laws,
to

power

which by the

him
was

neither been Constitution nor had opposed against

the
to

but

diametrically
To

its

provisions. serious and

defend

himself

these

charges, the President sent to the a protest, in the form of a message, Senate, dated the 17th of April, with a fur

loud

ther

date the 21st bearing explanation, April, in which he says that he has been unheard raigned and condemned in having violated the laws and
*

of
ar

for treason,
constitution

incident to the.libertiesof a country, when sword left in the hands of the Executive, have been con and purse firmed by the experience of all ages. " It would indeed be littleless Hamilton, in his Report, already than a miracle," says Alexander " be at the disposal of the the Bank should the credit of quoted, Government, if,in a long series of time, there was not experienced it. It is true that it would be the real interest a calamitous abuse of the Government not to abuse it; its genuine policy to husband of guarded circumspection, as an ines and cherish it with the most ever But what government timable treasure. uniformly consulted its true interests, in opposition to the temptations of momentaryblessed with a constant ever suc nation was exigencies ? What ? cession of upright and wise administrators
The dangers
are
"

THE

SENATE

AND

THE

PRESIDENT.

399

of the country.

arguments remarkable

a variety of adducing in his favour, he concluded this

After

against

protesting the resolutions of the Senate, as irrewith

document

by formally

the spirit and meaning of the The Senate was long while a constitution. hesitating whether this protest should be re
concileable

ceived

or

not,

and

declared,

at

length, by

of majority

twenty-seven

teen, that the President

against six had assumed illegal an forgetting the

to

voices

power,

and

that the Senate, not which

it
owes

responsibility
must

the
as

people,
to

to the whole appeal justness its conduct. of

nation

the

The between

warfare,

the

which President

was

and

commenced the Senate, conti

thus

till the breaking up of uninterruptedly The four Bank Directors appointed Congress. by the Se by the former were not confirmed nued
nate.

General

Jackson

renewed

the

same

nomination,

adding
once
more

his determination,

that, if

they

were

rejected

by

the Senate,

he would appeal to the decision of the people. for the Even this language, and his contempt whole Senate, had no influence on the resolu
tions

of the

Legislative
were a

Assembly second
time

the

four

Bank

Directors

rejected,
formerly,

and

with

greater

than majority

400

CHANGE

IN

PUBLIC

OPINION.

thirty voices to eleven. Several other by the President were nominations made namely,
in rejected of Mr. Taney Mr. like
manner

by

the

immoveable
were

Senate ; among-

the most

important

that and

to the Treasury to the embassy

Department,

Stevenson
great
mean

in England. opinion
over
was,

A
the with

change

in public

in

time, effected all

to the present regard Several States, which had formerly

the country Administration.

voted

for

General under the New

shown

Jackson,

were

now

severely suffering
and joined The City of

the effects of his experiment,

ranks of the Opposition. York, at former which

a

considerable

majority

elections had in favour of

the President
election for
a

and his adherents, gave, at the in 1834, the small ma Mayor,

votes
;*

jority of
might
rious

this number and even be questioned, in consequence of va illegal acts alleged to have been con

179

summated party. The

than
*

during

the election by the Jackson

newspapers,
in any

country

in America more which in the world express the

1832, Jackson had a At, the election in November, majority fourteen votes. If the trifling ma of five thousand five hundred and hundred and ninety-seven votes be deducted, the actual jority one of

declineof votes will be, in the course of six months, five thousand three hundred and thirty-five.

not

less than

OPPOSITION

TO

THE

PRESIDENT.

401

the real opinions of the nation respecting measures of Government, ranged themselves,
for the greater part,
sition. In the City of New of about two hundred habitants, there were
on

the side of the Oppo

York,

population in and thirty thousand papers which

with

only two

the cause of the President against advocated In Philadel eleven daily Opposition papers. phia, Baltimore, Boston, and several smaller the proportion of those in favour of to those who were the Administration against it was The to four, six, even as one eight.
towns,

class of people almost exclusively wealthy differed in opinion from General Jackson as To be revenged on to his political measures. these independent citizens for their opposition,

called them In fact, silk stocking and ruffled gentry." two parties developed themselves in the course
the
"

Administration

Journals

bore great hatred to which each other, and involved in one general vortex all the petty parties that had hitherto divided of this winter, the country among Anti-Jacksonmen,
mocrats,

themselves.

Jacksonmen,
De

National

Republicans,

Anti-Freemasons,

"c., disappeared
for Whigs constituted
D D

room altogether, and made Tories, the former of whom

VOL.
II.

and
the

402

THE

POSTMASTER

GENERAL'S

REPORT.

Opposition,

and sent Government.

the latter supported

the pre

During- the sitting of Congress, a report of General, respecting the state the Postmaster laid was of the finances of that department, before the legislative body.
not
a

The

nation

was

that the observing itself, and also Post Office, instead of paying in so ruinous a slate a surplus, was showing
on

little astounded

that, unless

an

appropriation it would

were

purposely
to go

made
on

by Congress,

be

unable

took all. At the investigation which that the present ascertained place, it was
at

Postmaster
in 1829, had

General,
sunk,

who

entered

upon

office

since that period, indepen

dently of the whole revenue of the department, left him by his predecessor, amount the sum ing, according to the statement of the former,
to two

hundred and

and

eighty-nine

thousand

one

hundred

forty dollars, seventeen

to that of the actual
one,

cents
to only

but, according hundred two dred

and

thirty thousand

four

hun

dollars : and moreover and eighty-nine six hundred and three thousand eight hundred he had bor and twenty-five dollars, which rowed
ment,

in the

name

without

of the Post Office depart authority from Congress.

of the mails in America is

The

conveyance

THE

POSTMASTER

GENERAI/S

REPORT.

403

contracted much These

a

for with

year, which sums, at firstmoderate,

private individuals at so is fixed by the Postmaster.

were

fore the expiration and for political

of the contract,
reasons,

often, be by favour
or even

doubled,
for the

trebled. 30th

The

revenue

year

ending
mil

stated at two lion thirty-seven thousand four hundred

was

January,

1833,

and

ten

dollars, eighty-one
million
two
one

cents

; the expences,

again, at two
three thousand

hundred

and twenty-

hundred

and

eighty-nine

dollars, forty -two cents ; consequently, there two deficit of eighty-five thousand was a hundred and seventy-eight dollars, sixty-one average, the expence of con veying by mail, in the year 1833, may be cal cents and a half per mile. culated at seven The the con number of miles over which
cents.
an

Upon

tractors
master

carry

the

mail

was,

by

the

Post

General's

statement,

twenty-six four

million eight thousand four hundred

at computed hundred and fifty-

the Committee,

again, who fixed accounts of the Post Office department, the mileage at only twenty-one million one
hundred and fifty-sixthousand forty-four.
short sitting of Congress

eighty-five; investigated the

and

eight hundred did not permit

D D

and The

404

POST

OFFICES.

further inquiry into the

till next

and subject, The

it

was

postponed
statement
some

session.

following
to

may

not

prove

uninteresting

readers. In the year 1790, there

of my

were

only seventy-

Offices in the country, and one thou and seventy-five posteight hnndred sand The revenue arising from postages roads.
five Post
was

then thirty-seven thousand thirty-five dollars.

nine hundred

and

Congress
June,

at length

on adjourned

the 30th of

returned to their dif and the members in done nothing ferent homes, after having the important matter which shook the founda
tion of the
not

States.
to yield
a

Both

parties

resolved

position they

parted,

point ; and determined to influence

different

appeared in this dis

their favour

constituents

in
own

districts in

of

their

Opposition

founded

The political views. its hopes on the elections expected

a

in the fall, when

they
to

to

have

the in

friends of the Administration to decry as the the Bank again continued It of the existing money-pressure. author

upperhand, Congress.

so

as

command

majority

The

LAFAYETTE.

405

will be

seen,

at

the end

the

victorious
or

party,

is of the year, which Tories, the Whigs or

Senate
I had
on

the President.
now

only

few days

left to remain
were

the free soil of America

; they

marked

by the memory panion

more.

tribute which the nation paid to the The friend and com of Lafayette.
in
arms

of Washington

was

now

no

The

melancholy

intelligence had packet,

been

brought
American

by the last European

felt the profoundest
from

Every

grief; lamenta

tions resounded

all parts
were

But

the New

Yorkers

of the country. the first who cele

"

brated
mourn

his obsequies the

man,''

by

procession.
"

We

said they,
over

of nineteen,

came

to
we

us

who, at the age from a foreign had neither

re was

land, at
sources

moment

when
"

nor

credit

when

our

feeble army

in want
man

of clothes and who,

arms.

We

mourn

the

notwithstanding
our

all this, placed

himself in
The

26th

ranks, and of June was

bled in fixed
as

our

cause." on

the day

to take place. Early was which the ceremony in the morning closed, and all the shops were flags waved half mast-high on all the ships in

port, and

on

all public edifices.

The

bells of

the churches tolled nearly the whole day, and March heard in every street was the Dead

406

TRIBUTE

TO

LAFAYETTE.

through
windows

which
were

the

procession

moved.
men,

The
women,

filled with
men,

old

and children : with Lafayette fighting with

women,

who

still remembered
cause

in the

of freedom the
ve

who

had

not

forgotten

but a few years ago, nerable General when, he visited the United States ; with children, had been taught, from their cradle, to who
place in their prayers

the

name

of Lafayette The

immediately procession was in New York.

after that of Washington.

the largest ever seen probably It was composed of all classes down to trades of citizens, from the mayor
men,

strangers,
six thousand

clergymen,
men

and

officers. army

About

of the regular
arms.

and militia were under At Castle Garden, a mony bishop,

was on

kind by
an

performed which
occasion

of funeral cere the Protestantoration

was

de the

livered, enumerating,

in suitable

terms,

important epochs in the principal and most In a word, the tribute life of the deceased. was worthy of Lafayette paid to the memory of
a

great

and grateful people.

as

He

was

truly

looked

upon

the

champion

of liberal prin

live as such ciples, and will, for ages to come, in the memory of the American people, as well
as

in that of every

other liberal nation.

FAREWELL

TO

AMERICA.

407 for my depar and

of

The
ture.

time

had 8th I

now

arrived

On

the

of July,
was

I embarked,
out

before the and

morning'

already
of

of sight

hospitable tedious shore packet

on

shores

America.
me

long
to the

voyage
; and
on

brought thence,
eve

again

British
rican

by

the first Ame

the

of

sailing, I bid
of the

my
a

friends long
"

the

other
a

side
"

Atlantic

perhaps

last

farewell.

1N

E X.

Amusement, cruel, ii,326 Anecdote ii,256 a steamboat, of Adams, John Quincy, some account of, Annapolis, an insignificant town, i, 307 Anniversary i, 216 interview with him, 218 of July 4, its celebration Alabama board an American river, beauty of its scenery, ii, on ship, i, 7 Argument, ii,244 41 one, a conclusive Arkansas, territory of, ii, 102 Alarm, nocturnal, ii,280 Ash, white, its effect on the rattlesnake, Albany, pleasant trip to, ii,255 origin i, 377 the city, 2:8" bustle in, 259" in of habitants of, 260 from, to Athens, village of, i, 81 railroad Saratoga, 261 Auburn, some account of the prison at, Alleghany Mountains, appearance of the, ii, 196, 217 ii,143 Augusta, river, excursion up the, i, 409 American i, in the town improvements on, architecture, remarks of, bustle 140 i, 410 stores at, 411 cotton American in, 412 Bible Society, some account of, i, 249 American ii, Backwoodsman, history of a, ii,281 Constitution, remarks on, Ball in America, described, i. 220 173 American hospitality, ii,176 dies of cholera, i, Ballow, an old man, Institute, a society for the en American 152, 154 Ballston Spa, celebrity of, ii,269 couragement of manufactures, i, 236 American Baltimore, appearance i, 16 one, of the city of, pilot, picture of American i,295 ii, 192 its attractions to the traveller, on, prisons, remarks Catholic Church at, Au 296" the Roman the penitentiary system, 194 burn 297 218 at, monument prison, 196, prison at of Washington Singsing, 197 298" national monument at, 299 prison at Wethersfield,217 death of Charles Carroll at, 300" in hu in the population of, 307 literature, state of, ii,369 American crease Americans, 308 commerce political information of, ii, miliation of slaves at, 100 difference in their character, 178 rail-road at, ib. of, 309 projected in New York, ii,370 dancing, a Bankruptcies, manners of the, 180 favourite amusement 181 Banks in the United States, ii,381 of, American Banks at Philadelphia, i, 271 stage-coaches, i, 66

ACADEMY
60
"

OF

CADETS,

at West

Point, i,

course

of instruction

at, 62

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

410
"

INDEX.

Calhoun, speeches of, ii, 105 Cambridge, University of, near Boston, i, 213 Canada, population of, ii, 335 emigra tion to, 336 proprietors of land in, 337 religion in, 338" derivation of its name, ib. descendants of French settlers in, 339 excursion from Mon treal to Quebec, 340 government of, 347 Canadian Indians, ii,330 Canal-boats, described, ii,277, 286 Canandaigua, situation of the town of,ii, ii,237 298 Capitol, at Washington, Blennerhassett's Island, ii,140 described, i, Boarding-houses, in America, ii,152 310 arrange Carolina, South. See South Carolina. ments of, i, 33 Boilers, bursting of, in steamers, ii,50, Carroll, Charles, his death, i, 300 81 301" tribute to sketch of his career, his memory, Boston, cleanliness at, i, 43 description of his 303 approach funeral, 304 to, 127 of, cottages and churches Cascades, near Pine Orchard, visit to, i, for com 128 advantageously situated 72 129 merce, 73 originally called Triremarkable tree near, ib. spacious harbour of, Catskill, i, 66 journey from, to Pine mountain, Orchard, 67 130 appearance of the city,ib. nar rowness Auburn, near the State- Cemetery at Mount Bos the streets, 131 of house at, ib. Chantrey's statue of ton, described, i, 211 Washington, 133 at Wicacoa, i, 292 neglected prome fair singers at, 135 246 at Plymouth, described, ii, nade at, 134 Chantrey, his statue of Washington, Faneuil Hall, 136" the market, 137 i, Lodge 133 the Freemasons' at, 139 Charleston, advantageous situation of,i, Relief Asso night serenade at, 151 dilapidated state of the buildings institutions at, 379 155 ciation at, public 157" Peace Society at, 162" state of trade of, ib. at, 380" climate of, 381 freedom of religion St. Andrew's Society at, 382 164 education at, Charlestown, a naval station, i, 181 distinctionbetween the sects, at, 166 167 the seat of the Unitarians, 178 the Constitu spacious dock at, 182 beauty of the environs, 209 Ja Bunker's Hill at, tion frigate at, 183 Cemetery at Mount distance from to Lynn, ib. 184 maica pond, 210 Chatahoochee, river, ii,5 Auburn, near,z'6. University of Cam Chaudiere Falls, near Quebec, ii,347 bridge, near, 213 account of Nahant, Cherokee Journal, ii,34 219 near, the President reception of 232, 236 language, ii,35 at, Breakneck Hill, cataract at, i, 190" fate Chess, game the insane, i, of, among 262 a party of Indians at, ib. of Children, uneducated, Brighton, celebrated cattle-fair at, i, 222 number of, in i, 248 America, Broadway, instruction of, in the principal street at New York, described, i, 30 the Houses of Refuge, 267 refor Brooklyn, naval station of, i, 232 mation of, 270 Cholera, havoc made by, at New York, Bryant, lines by, i, 39 i, 15, 40, 44" case of, 152-*subsides Buffalo, trip to, ii, 303 prosperity of the place, 307 at, 230 Church, Roman Bunker's Hill, at Boston, i, 184 Catholic, at Baltimore, i, 297 Point, i, Church, scene Cadets, Academy of, at West round a, in North Caro lina, i, 364 instruction at, 62 60
Baptists, doctrines of the, i, 171 meet York, ing of the, at New in 172 crease 175 of, Bathing, sociable, ii,52 Battery at New York, i, 26 York, i, 17 In Bay, spacious, at New dian tradition respecting it, ] 9 Beaufort, small town of, i, 403 Bon Franklin steamer, described, ii,125 Betsy, a negro woman, sold, i, 325 Beverley, persons hung for witchcraft at, 186 Black Hawk, a celebrated Indian chief,
" " " "
" " "
"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

INDEX. Cincinnati, epithets applied to, ii, 126

flourishing state of the city, 127 hotel at, 129 its situation, 128 fame Mrs. Trollope's bazaar at, 130 the place, 131 character of the of inhabitants of, 132 Clay, the most popular speaker in Ame
"
" "

411

Duponceau, Mr. i, 257 Durant, aerial ascent of, ii,238 Earthquake Madrid, ii, 113 at New East, River, scenery of the, i, 228 Education, state of, at Boston, i, 164-" 241 general state of in America,
"

"

"

"

rica, ii,164

Cleanliness, neglect of,at New

41

York, of,

i,

Clergymen,
176

on

the

education

i,

Captain Basil Hall's account de of, in 1828, ii,2 of the in 1832, 4 scription of, Confinement, first moments of, ii,221 discus Congress, speeches in, ii,158

Columbus,

comparative table of, 245 Elections in America, i,281 remarks on the benefit of, 285 their import 287 ance, Elysian fields, a beautiful retreat at New York,i, 37
"
"

town

"

Emancipation
347

of slaves, remarks

on,

i,

Emigrants, Swedish, to the banks of the Delaware, i, 288, 289 Emigrants, leaving their feelings on sions in, 393 hardships of, on their England, i, 2 Conscience, liberty of, in America, i, 106, 165 arrival in America, ii,200 prospects for 203 frigate, victo Constitution, American Emigration, to the United States, i, ries of, i, 183 Americans," 197 Cooper's "Notions encouragement given to, 202 of the from Carolina, 363 from, i, 32 extract Corn, Indian, singular appearance of, Emigration to Canada, ii,336 Employment, benefit of, ii,223 1, 365 Erie Canal, completion of, ii,290 Cotton, cultivation of, i, 366 mode of fine dressing, 367 trade in, 381 kind of, 403 of shipping, ii, Fair Mount, Philadelphia, account mode of the waterworks 42 at, i, 276 in, ii, Falls of Niagara, visit to the, ii,313 Cotton factories, girls employed Falls of St. Anthony, ii,76 250 Fanaticism, in America, ii, 187 Creed of the Shakers, i, 92 Fanaticism of the Shakers, i, 89 Creek Indian, sudden appearance of a, Faneuil Hall, at Boston, i, 136 432 degradation of, i, 431 ii,59 in America, comforts of, Farm-houses, Creoles, passionate temper of, i, 111 described, 60 their persons Fayetteville, origin of the town i, 145 Crimes, from intemperance, of, i, fireat, 368 367 ii,216 causes extensive of, i, 192 Females, attention to in America, i, 51 Curiosity of the Americans, Fine Arts in America, ii,368 exemplified, 193 Fir, beautiful species of, i, 373 The Fire, calamitous, at the Richmond Dance on ship-board, i, 10 for in Ame in 1811, i, 321 atre, Dancing, a favourite amusement monument on that occasion, those who perished rica, ii, 181 board York, i, 28 323 on Dandy, Negro, at New at Fayetteville, 368 destructive, at ii, 107 State of, a through the steamer, Delaware, journey New York, 185 i, 293 Fire-engines, ii, 185 Dinner, a singular one, ii, 10 Fireflies,disappearance of, i, 57 Diseases, incident to emigrants, i, 201 Firemen in New York, ii,184 some Dismal Swamp, account of, i, 359 Flour Mills, at Rochester, ii,300 Dock at Charlestown, i, 182 Forests, variety of trees in the, i, 373 Dreams, golden, put to flight,i, 427 ii,344 Fort at Cape Diamond, view Dressing for landing, i, 12 from, 345 i, 109 Drivers, not coachmen, i, Fort Mitchell, miserable road to, ii,9 one, Drunkard, upon experiment
"
" " "

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

149

412

INDEX.
Hudson,
38, 51

Fort of oyster shells, i,407 France, neglect of religion in, i, 174 Franklin, Benjamin,memory of, i,278
"

beautiful scenery of the, i, 36,

visit to his tomb, ii, 126

i, 314

279

"

letter of,

Freclericksburg, bad
near,

state

of the roads

Freemasons' Lodge, at Boston, i, 139 Funeral procession, i, 300 fatal conflict bet ween two.ii, 40 in steamers, 110 Gang of slaves described, i, 429 Genesee Falls, described, ii,302 Genoa, village of, ii,297 Georgetown, i, 372 price of land near,
"

Gamblers,

elegance of the steamboats on the rocks on, called Palisades, 52 Majesticx53traditions re surnamed specting the highlands of the, 55 on thunderstorm the, 58 excursions up the, 65, ii,254 Negro Humphries, Solomon, a shop keeper, i, 425 his hospitality, 426 Hunting party, Indian, ii,21 Husking, so called, i, entertainment
45
"
"

"

"

"

"

205, 208 Hut of an Indian chief, visited, ii, 16 Hymns of the Shakers, i, 86, 87

arrival at, 378 Georgia, soil of, i, 417 Goat Island, hermit of, ii, 323 Goffe, the regicide, i, 117, 118 Golconda, disappointment respecting,
"

Independence, anniversary of, ii,252 Indians, reflections on their disappear

contiguity to the, ii,15 hunting party visit to a chief, 16 addicted to spirituous of the, 21 liquors, 23 their debased state, 24 duties of the chiefs, 26 their cos described, 27 tume their persons, 29 28 condition of the women, their religious notions, 31 vindictive spirit of, 32 carousal of the, 33 farewell to the, 36 a solitary one, 103 estimate of their total number, 104 their gradual decrease, 105 of
ance,
"

i,24,172
"

"

"

ii, 120

"

Grog

and i, 144 i, 145

whisky
on

shops
the
causes

in

America,

"

"

"

Grundy,

Mr.,

of crime,

"

"

"

Guide's story, i, 77
Hall, Captain, his remarks on the Aca demy of Cadets at West Point, i, 61 Hall of the Representatives, at Wash ington, ii,155 Hamburg, a small village, i, 413
Hat, various uses of the, i, 223 Hayne, General, Governor of South his oratorical pow Carolina, i, 383
"

"

"

"

"

"

"

ers,

384

Helen M'Gregor, steamer, accident to 44 the, ii, Hell Gate, whirlpool at, i, 229 Heroism, female, i, 191 i, 55 Highlands on the Hudson, Hogs, York, i, nuisance of, at New
42
"

of the, i, 261 Institutions, public, at Boston, i, 158 Intemperance, baneful effects of, i, 143 from, 145 crimes Inundation, destructive, on the Ohio, ii,135 York, ii,363 Italian Opera, at New
"

Canada, 330 Insane, mild treatment

enemies

of

rattlesnakes,

i,

374 Holyoke,
"

difficultascent of, i, 114 extensive view from, 115 Hospitality of the Americans, ii,176 inferior to European, Hotels, American, i, 32 Houses, American, mode of building, i,
Mount,
110
"

Jackson, General, elected President of the United States, i, 284 proclama drawing-room held by, tion of, 397 his person and manners, ii, 166 168 inauguration accusation of, 169 his against, 189 assaulted, 231 tour through the Northern and East States, 232" his reception at New ern his journeyto Boston, York, 233 h.s his reception there, 236 235 his responsible to Lowell, 251 visit ii, 380 his hostility to experiment, the Bank, 389 charges against, 398
" " "

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

at New

York,

described, i, 31

comfortless, in North Carolina, i, 362" and at Macon, 421 of Refuge at Philadelphia, i,265 children educated in, 267
"

opposition Jamaica Pond,

"

to, 401

beauty

of, at Boston,
on

i,

210

Jefferson, his

remarks architecture, i, 140

American

INDEX.

413
"

423 River, the Great, ii,136 commerce Kenhawa of the town, mild Negro ness Kentucky the climate at, 424 traveller, conversation with of a, ii,37 shopkeeper at, 425 Maine, aspect of the country in, i, 189 Knickerbocker, his account of the situ i, 20 Amsterdam, soil of, 196 worth of timber in,199 ation of New In Mammoth, Knowledge, skeleton of the, i, 273 progress of, i, 177 i, dian tradition respecting, ib. to his memory, Kosciusko, monument Manchester, in Mississippi, search for, 64 ii, 121 i, Manhattoes, derivation of the name, Labour of prisoners, ii,212 19, 53 Labourers, scarcity of, i, 206 Manufactures, Ladies, fashionable, dress of, ii,271 exhibition of, at New York, i, 237 Land, joyon beholding, i, 1 1 prices of, Market at Boston, described, i, 137 in the United States, 189 purchase Marketing in America, ii,138 of, 202 in Georgia, i, 419 Maryland, trafficin slaves in, i, 308 Lottery Massachusetts, a rich and flourishing Springs, account of the, i,83 Lebanon description of the religious sect at, state, i, 1 08 aspect of the country ,110 Matrimony, Shakers, ib. argument against, i, 87 called Lafayette, intelligence of his death, ii, Meeting of the Shakers, particular ac 406 405 count tribute to his memory, of it, i, 98 Lee, Ann, the founder of the religious Miasma, fatal,i, 276 her fana Militia system, in America, ii,374 sect called Shakers, i, 85 Miracle, a modern one, i, 90 as the tical ravings, zi. worshipped Missionaries, Christian, efforts of the, Redeemer, 86 strange commands dangerous i, 173 issued by, 87, 88 interference of, miracle said to be by, 90 343, 351 arrives in America, wrought Mississippi River, description of the, ii, her death, ib. 91 72 its tributary Life, human, carelessness of, ii,81 , 108 source of the, 74 Falls of St. Anthony, Literary institutions, at Philadelphia, i, 75 streams, its general features, 77 on 257 the, 76 287 its various Little Falls, romantic situation of,ii, on the, 78 reflexions 288 79 near, steamboat accidents on aspects, scenery Lockport, village of, ii,306 the, 80 "walls on the banks of, 85 dif Logan, the Indian chief, cruelties to sugar-plantations along the, 86 ficulties its navigation, 88 remarkable speech of, wreck of wards, ii,137 his assassination, 139 138 90 on, snag-boat on of a steamer Long Island, extent of, i, 17 the, 91 consumption of fire-wood on Long Level, plain of, ii,289 the, 94 unhealthiness of its banks, New York, Lottery offices, numerous, 96 at o junctionf adieu to the, 116 Ohio with the, 117 i, 231 Mobile, fires at, ii,44 Louisiana, legislation of, ii,70 trade of, 45 described, ii,83 Montgomery, to, steamer journey ii.38 affrays Louisville, flourishing condition of, ii, at, 40 124 Montmorency Falls, near Quebec,ii,346 i, 22 Lover, strange picture of one, Montreal, appearance of, ii,332 pub Lowell, prosperity of the town lic buildings of, 333 at, convents of, ii,
" " "

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

at, 249 manufactories General Jackson to, 251 visit of Lyceum at Boston, i, 157
"

248
"

cotton

Lynn, boots and shoes manufactured i,184

at,

Macon,

desolate approach to, i, 418 description of the environs, 420 dan smallness of the houses, 421 gerous state of the streets, 422
"
"

334 population of, 335 Auburn, Mount cemetery at, described, i, 211 view of Boston from, ib. Museum at Salem, i, 186 Music, fine, at Boston, i, 135 Muskets, manufactured at Springfield, i, 119
" "

"

"

Nahant, i, 219"

public resort

near

Boston,

curiosities at, ib.

414

INDEX.

Natchez, town of, ii,92 i, 229 cholera subsides at, 230 National debt, amount bustle and activity in, 231 of, ii, 161 number Navy of the United States, stations of, of lottery officesat, ib. naval station i, 232 232 of Brooklyn, near, society at, Negro boatmen, i, 371 for the encouragement 378 songs of, of manufac fashionables at New York, i, 27 Negro free-school at, 238 tures, 236" flirta their extravagant dress, ib. general state of education at, 240 tion among, 28 School Agents' Society at, 217 festival at New York, ii,253 Bible Society at, 248 from journey Negroes, free-school for, at New York, Washington firemen, 184 to, ii,183 i, 238" fanaticism at, 188 destructive fire privilege of, 239 creed of the, 333 the President's reception at, at, 185 Negro shopkeeper, at Macon, i, 425 233 accident on the occasion, 234 former name Amsterdam, New the anniversary of independence at, 252 of New York, i, 20, 289 Italian opera at, 363 theatres at, Newbury 365" Trades'Unionat,37 3" burlesque port, decline in its trade, i, 187 taxes at, 377 procession at, 375 New Hampshire, mountains of, i, 187 Niagara, passage over the, ii, 308 New Madrid, destructive earthquake at, Falls of, described, 313 the Rapids for flat ii,113 boats, 114 a rendezvous 317 of, New Orleans, dangers of travelling to, Norfolk, some account of the town of, i, i, 414 description of the city of, ii, 356 DismalSwamp coach from, 357 53 the port of, near. 358 cotton trade of, 54 55 North America steamer, at, 56 various nations gro elegantly fitted 57 i, 47 tesque scene at, population of, up, punctuality of, ib. French Opera 58 lands near, i, 109 Northampton, at the waste affray House delightfully situated, 112 trade at, 59 advantageously situ 63 fever the town, ib. ated for commerce, yellow of North Carolina, aspect of, i, 361 un at, 64 at, mildness of the weather diseases at, 66 65 mortality at, emigra comfortable houses in, 362 festivity 67 tion from, 363 at, 69 political sitting Nullification,debates on, ii,160 of the legislature at, 70 frequented in summer, Newport, much Nullifiers, their opposition to the new ii, 239 Tariff, i, 385 compromise with the, News-boats, at New York, i, 14 401 Newspapers, in America, ii,370 New York, havoc made by the cholera Officers, American, their gentlemanly i, 234 at, i, 15, 40, 152 spacious bay at, 17 character, Knicker beautiful view of, 18 Ohio, river, its junctionith the Mis w bocker's account of the city, when scenery on the, 118, sissippi, ii, 117 20 Amsterdam, destructive inundation of the, 134 called New reflec tions on its modern the 135 state, 23 Battery at, 26 Negro fashionables Ontario, Lake, extent of, ii,328 description of Broadway, 27 30 Oyster-shells, fort of, i, 407 at, its the houses, 31 appearance of the principal Palisades, or rocks, on the Hudson, i,52 singular locality, 32 hotels, ib. boarding-houses Palmetto-tree, luxuriance of the, i, 406 at, 33 increased Passaic, fallof the, near New York, i,235 strange mode of lifeat, 34 Patterson, rise of the town of, i, 234 population of, 35 view of the Hud from, 36" the Elysian Fields, 37 son cataract at, 235 Pawtucket, grandeur of the scenery at, 38 cotton-factories at, i, 224 hogs in Peace Society at Boston, neglect of cleanliness at, 41 of, objects i, desolate appearance 162 the streets, 43 Peale's Museum, extra steamboats from, 46 at Philadelphia, i, 272 of, 44 TemperanceSociPenitentiary system, remarks on, ii,194 ordinary number of Penn, William, bronze statue in honour eties in the State of, 147, ii, 242 at, arrival of the President steamer of, i,263
"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

INDEX.

415

Pennsylvania,
of, i, 286

democratic

constitution

American man-of-war, 280 Hospital, at Philadelphia, described, i, 259 mild treatment of the insane at, 261 Performers, theatrical, at New York, ii, 366 Philadelphia, a nocturnal drive through, disagreeable quarters, at, 254 i, 253 a coquettish aspect of, city, ib. disposition of the streets, ib. 255 disadvantageously situated for com literary institutions at, 256 merce, Parties," 258 257 the "Wistar Sunday School Association at, 259 account of the Pennsylvania Hospital, Penn ^."statue at, 263 of William houses of refuge at, 265 education institutions at, benevolent at, 267 Peale's buildings at, 272 27 1 public Museum, ib. the Statehouse, 274" descrip environs romantic of, 275 tion of the waterworks at Fair Mount, 276" tomb of Franklin at, 279" elec tion of President at, 280 church of Wicacoa new at, 291 prison at, ii, 219, 226 Philip, King, an Indian warrior, his in trepidity and noble daring, i, 227 described, i, 15 Pilot, American, from Catskill to, Pine Orchard, journey i,67 view from the hotel magnificent to the cascades near, 69, 70 at, visit 71 ii,245 ceme Plymouth, islands near,
"

President, steamboat, excellent accom modations of, i, 225 Prisoners, labour of, in America, ii, 212, firstmoments of confinement,
"

"

221

Prisons

in America,
"

ii, 192

"

disci

"

"

"

"

"

pline in,214 results of different ones, 227 deserted, at Boston, i, 134 Promenade, Providence, some account of the town i, 224 of, Purgatory and Paradise, ii,240 Putnam, Fort, near Point, i, 63 West ii,355 described, ii,361 wedding, descended from Negroes, Quarteroons, ii,60 the, 61 marriages among Quebec, journeyfrom Montreal to, ii, description of the city of, 343 341 fort of Cape Diamond at, 344 Falls near, Montmorencv 346 the Chaudiere Falls, 347 Queenston, village of, ii, 327 Quincy,near Boston, residence of J. Q, Adams at, i, 216
one, Quaker, a jovial
" " " " "

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

Railroad,

at projected, Baltimore,

i, 30'J

grand
to

one,

ii,147

Saratoga, ii,261, 268

"

"

"

tery at, 246 Pompey, a slave, anecdote of, i, 337 to, ii,48 en Pontchartrain, steamer trance to the lake of, 51 York, increase in, i, Population of New
"

35 Portland, state of the streets in, i, 195 from Portsmouth, state of the town fire, i, 188 prediction respecting, ii, 136 General, report of, ii,402 Postmaster Post-offices, number of, ii,404 Potomac, river, grandeur of the scenery of the, i, 312 Presbyterians of Rochester, ii,301 President, account of the election of, i, in 280 proclamation of the, 397 the, ii,169" assault on, auguration of
"
"

ii,266 Railroads, great number of, in the United States, ii,262 list of, 265 desirable in the Southern States, i, 317 Rattlesnake, killed, i, 76 extraor dinary story of one, ib. Rattlesnakes, abundant in the northern i, 374 woods, enemies of the, ib. remedy for their bite, 375 mode of defence against, 376 effect of white ash on, 377 Relief Association, established at Bos ton, i, 154 rules of, 155 Religion, freedom of, in America, i, 166 Rice-fields, unhealthy situation of, i,
" " " " " " "

to Schenectady,

378

Richmond,
318
"

visit

its picturesque situation, i, ^o the Capitol of, 319

" "
"

"

at, ib. the of Washington Courthouse, 320 account of the dreadful fire at the theatre of, in 181 1 321 monument at, for those who statue
,
"

231

Presidential Palace at Washington, scribed, ii, 151

de

ac perished on that occasion, 323 a count at, 324 slave auction of to creed of the Negroes at, 333 bacco manufactory at, 354
" " "

416

INDEX.

Rideau canal, extent of, ii,329 Rip Van Winkle, his long slumber,
68 Rivers, danger

Shakers,
i,

of crossing, i, 369 Roads, execrable, in the Southern States, i, 108, 314, 360 Rochester, of, ii, 299 population Presbyterians flour mills at, 300 of, 301 Rodney, small town of, ii,93
"
"

a religious sect, visitto a vil lage of, i, 84 disposition of their houses, ib. some account of their founded by Ann Lee, ib. origin, 85 86 their hymns, singular ceremo
"
"

"

"

"

principles of the, tobaccoof the, 103 smoking festival of, 104 of the, ii, Shore, busy preparations for going en, 341 i, 12 Singsing, particular account of the pri Salem, its trade and navigation, i, 185 son museum at, ii, 197 at, ib. Situation, a perilous one, ii, 146 Santee, the great and little, passage over Sketch Book, by Washington Irving, the, i, 370 Saratoga, railroads to, ii, 261, 268 extracts from and allusions to it,i, 18, 54, 68 the resort of invalids, 270 visiters Slaves, extensive traffic i,308 in, auc to, 272 at, quality of the waters for the sale of at Richmond, tion 325 275 first Savannah, general remarks on their condition in excursion to, i, 402 lives of the, description of the town, 407 the United States, 335 view of, desertion of, ib. 339 incapable of 408 Schenectady, appreciating the blessings of liberty, railroad to, ii, 266 341 beauty of the environs of, 267 crimes of the, 343 emancipa tion of, 345 School discipline, i, 268 against them, prejudices York, 346 School Agents' Society, at New abject state of, ib. picture re i, 247 of a female, 404 arrangements description of a gang Schoolmaster, the haunted, i, 54 specting, 405 York, i, School for Negroes, at New of, 429 narrative of one, 430 Sleepy Hollow, described by Washing 238 ton Irving, i, 54 Schools, great number of, in the State Snag-Boat, on the Mississippi, ii,91 York, i, 241 New of Snow-storm, ii, 123 Schools of the Shakers, i, 96 Sodom, village of, lawless pursuits of the Schuylkill, beautiful shores of the, i,275 inhabitants of, ii, 7 fatal misasma arising from. 276 Solitude, benefits of, ii,222 Scott, Sir Walter, tribute to his me of, effects 224 mory, i, 383 South Carolina, opposition of to the Sea-island cotton, superiority of, i, 403 New Tariff, i, 385 Sea-life,its uniformity, i, 2 South Hadley, waterfalls at, i, 117 Sea-monster, its reported appearance, Speeches in Congress, ii,158 Nahant, i, 221 near Spirits,imported into the United States distinction between, Sects, religious, in J824 and 1830, i, 147 i, 167 Springfield, gun-manufactory Senate, composition of the, ii,163 at, i, 118 ii, 157 it, 119 account Senate Hall, at Washington, of prosperity of the workmen the locksmith Serenades, nocturnal, at Boston, i, 150 at, 121 Sermon of the Shakers, i, 103 of, 123 Serpents, Indian remedy for the bite of, Squatters, on the Mississippi, ii,94 his dislike to 97 i, 375 picture of one, Sexes, intercourse between the, ii,182 neighbours, 99
"

Sabbath, disregarded in France, i, 174 Society, benevolent St. Andrew's ob

nies of, 87, 89 rulers of the society, 91 their creed, 92 rules and re the, 93 their oc-gulations among cupations, 94 effects of their doc trines, 95 ac schools of the, 96 their costume cusation against, 97 described, ib. particular account of
"
" "
"

"

"

"

"

"

their meeting,
102
"

98

jectsf, i, 382 o St. John's, town of, ii,350 St. Lawrence, river, scenery

sermon

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

INDEX.

417

in the Southern States, Travelling dangers of, i, 414 ii, 145 Tree, a remarkable one, near ii,241 the Cas companions, i, 73 in one, i, 193 cades, conversation Stage-coaches, American, described, i, Trenton, tedious journeyfrom New hotel at, tc, i, 251 Brunswick 66 State-House, at Boston, description of, 252 Trenton Falls, described, ii,292 i, 131 State-House, at Philadelphia, historical Trollope, Mrs., her bazaar at Cincinnati, her disappointment, 131 ii, 130 recollections attached to it, i, 274

Stage-coach

accidents, i, 315, 416, 428,

"

"

"

"

election of President in, 282 in America, Statesmen, eminent,

166

ii,

misrepresentations her writings, 177

of, 175

"

effect of

Statistics, lecture on, ii,122 a Steamboat accidents, ii,80, 82, 101

ii,49 annoyances, Steamboats on the Hudson, elegance lug of, i, 46 punctuality of, 48 gage on deck of, 49 passengers in, 50Ri number of, on the Western ii,82 fire 89 vers, wreck of one, board one, in, 109 on 107 company in, 110 scenes on deck, gambling
" " "
-

Unitarians
tenets,

at

i, 178

Boston, their religious do not believe in the

"

"

"

"

"

"

111

Storm
i, 4

at

sea,

description of its effects,

Storm, awful, ii, 309 Sugar Plantations on the banks of the Mississippi, ii,86 Sunday School Association, at Phila delphia, i, 259 Susquehanna river, course of the, i,294 Swedish colony, ancient i, 289 con by the Dutch, 290 quered
"

Trinity, 179 United States, religious sects in, i, 170 to the, 197 produc emigration tions of the, 204 stations of the na general state of education vy of, 233 in, 241 condition of slaves in, 334 dangerous travelling in, 415 rail in, ii,262 taxation numerous roads banks in the, 381 in the, 376 ii, 383 Bank, appli its charter, 385 to renew cation deposits from, removal of government de 386 against, 390 complaints discussions in Con fence of, 391
" "

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

gress respecting, 393

University of Cambridge,
lectures at, i, 213 students at. ib. opening of, 215
" "

near

Boston,

education of the ceremonies at the

"

277 Utica, canal-boat to, ii, picture of, Tariff, new, South Caro 291 opposition of lina to the, i,385 Temperance description of, Societies,establishment of, Vernon, Mount, ii,354 i, 146 ii,242 356 Tennessee and Cumberland rivers, ii, Virginia, cultivation of tobacco in, i, 119 354 Thunder-storm i, 57 Voting, right of, i, 286 on the Hudson, Timber, worth of, i, 199 Tobacco, its cultivation in Virginia, i, Ware, a manufacturing place, i, 126 Chantrey's statue of, i,133 353 Washington, Baltimore, to, at at Richmond, monument manufactory vi 298 319 statue of, at Richmond, sit to, i, 354. Tobacco-smoking Festival of the Sha tomb of, 359 kers, i, 104 appearance of the Capitol Towns, to, ii, singular names of given of,i,310,ii,152" difficulty procuring 120 at, i,149 accommodations plan of the Trades' Union, at New York, ii,373 the Presidential Palace at, city, 150 Travellers, late European, ii, 179 151 description of the Hall of Re 142 the Senate at, 155 presentatives sleeping, ii, ii, 12 two, Hall, 157 picture of Travelling, accidents in, i, 316 Water, beneficial influence of, ii,242
" "

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

418

INDEX.

Webster, sound reasoning of, ii, 165 Wedding of a Quaker, described, ii,361 West Point, arrival of the steamboat at, Academy i, 59 of Cadets at, 60 Anto romantic scenery round, 63 Nose near, 64 ny's i, Picture West's of the Redeemer,
"

"

"

Wheeling, to,ii, 133 steamboat Wicacoa, the church at, account of 291" cemetery at, 292 Winter, i, 424 mild, atMacon, Wistar Parties, at Philadelphia, i, 258 Worcester, appearance of, i, 126 Workmen, i, 207 wages of,

264

Wethersfield,
son

some

account

of the pri

Yankee,
Yankee

at, ii,217

Whalley

and Goffe, the regicides, i, 117

Yellow

speculation of a, ii,68 Doodle, national song of, i, 9 Fever at New Orleans, ii,64.

THE

END.

LONDON
SHOBERL, JUNR.,

:
STREET, LEICESTER

4,

LEICESTER

SQUARK.

RETURN TO" """

DEPARTMENT CIRCULATION 202 Main Library

DUE AS STAMPED

BELOW

FORM

NO.

DD6,

60m,

BERKELE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, 1/83 BERKELEY, CA 94720

"P