Build Your Own

Sheet Metal Brake

Plans
 Here is an inexpensive and easy way to build your own
Sheet Metal Brake. It is a nice little weekend project. I have
put a great deal of thought onto this design.

I have built 3 different proto types and found some room

for improvements. So I redesigned it until I found it to be
perfect for my needs.

It was designed to bend aluminum up to 6feet wide and

.040” thick. The last one I built I used to build my own little
motorcycle trailer and it worked great.

I have included in these plans a complete material list

with instructions, illustrations, and photos. My goal here was
to put these plans together so that anyone could understand
them.

You do not have to be an engineer to read these plans.

You can also print out the pages you need which make it
convenient to take to the garage with you. I hope you will find
the plans easy to follow and I hope you enjoy building your
own.

2
 Hello since we designed these plans
some things has certainly changed.
This includes the price of steel.
Most of the material needs to remain
the same however I have re-designed
the legs using a smaller size angle.

In the material list on the next

page you will see at the top of
the page the 3” X 3” X ¼” angle
Example below:

U ANGLE
U (Quantity ) Size Mark
U U UU

(1) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 76” - #1
(1) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 76 1/8” - #2
(1) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 72 ½ ” - #3
(2) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 31” - #’s 4A & 4B
(2) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 28” - #’s 5A & 5B
(2) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 2 ½ ” - #’s 6A & 6B

The four pieces shown here in red (2)

pieces 31” long and 2 pieces 28” long are
the ones you can alter.
We are now using 2” X 2” X 1/8” thick
angle and it is working great. It is also a
good bit cheaper than the 3” X 3” X ¼”
thick angle.
Cut the pieces to size and mark them with the piece numbers (on the right) out from the
dimensions shown here:

ANGLE

(Quantity) Size Mark

(1) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 76” - #1
(1) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 76 1/8” - #2
(1) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 72 ½ ” - #3
(2) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 31” - #’s 4A & 4B
(2) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 28” - #’s 5A & 5B
(2) - 3” x 3” x ¼” x 2 ½ ” - #’s 6A & 6B

ANGLE

(1) - 1” x 1” x 1/8” x 75” - #7

FLAT BAR

(1) - 3” x 1/8” x 60” - #8

FLAT BAR

(4) - 2” x 3” x ½” - (2) #9’s (2) #10’s

COLD ROLL

(2) - 5/8” x 18” - #11

(2) - 5/8” x 2” - #12

(4) - 4” Swivel Casters

(2) 3/8” x 2” Course Thread Socket Cap Screws

(4) 3/8” x 1 1/4 “ Course Thread Bolts
(4) 3/8” Flat Washers
(8) 3/8” Nuts
(4) 3/8” Lock Washers

3
STEP # 1

Take your hinge pins (2pcs) 5/8” x 2” (Marked #12) and have them
machined. It is important to get this cut correct. The pins is what puts
everything in line and insures an accurate bend.

STEP # 2

Next get the Main Frame (1pc) 3” x 3” x ¼” 76” (Marked #1). You
will need to drill (2) 3/8” holes, one on each end as shown.

STEP # 3

Get the Main Frame Angle (1pc) 3” x 3” x ¼” 76 1/8” (Marked #2).

Cut out the area shown.

STEP # 4

Next take the Legs (2pcs) 3” x 3” x ¼” 31” (Marked #’s 4A & 4B)
These pieces need to be cut the same but on opposite ends shown.

Illustrations #’s 4 & 5 and in Photo #4

STEP # 5

Next get the Feet (2pcs) 3” x 3” x ¼” 28” (Marked #’s 5A & 5B)
Measure and mark as shown.

4
STEP # 6

Take the End Caps (2pcs) 2 ½ ” x 3” x ¼ “ 28” (Marked #’s 6A &

6B) Cut out the ¾” notches on opposite corners as shown.

Illustration # 7 and Photo #6

STEP # 7

Now take the Hinge Plates (2pcs) 3” x 2” x ½ “ (Marked # 9) Drill

the 5/8” holes through as shown.

Illustration # 8 and Photo #7

STEP # 8

Take the Clamping Plates (2pcs) 3” x 2” x ½ “ (Marked #10) Drill

the 5/8” hole through as shown.

Illustration # 9 and Photo #8

STEP # 9

Take the Hold Down Clamp (1pc) 3” x 3” x ¼ “ x 72 ½ ” (Marked

#3) and take the (1pc) 3” x 1/8 “ x 60” (Marked #8). Measure and
place on an angle and stitch weld as shown.

Illustration # 10 and Photo #9

Now that you have all the pieces cut and drilled you will need to
clean all the edges for safety.
We are ready to start the assembly.

5
STEP # 10

Leg & Foot Assembly

You will need the legs #’s 4-A & 4-B and the feet #’s 5-A & 5-B. Take
#4-A and 5-A and line up as shown in illustration # 11 and Photo # 10.

Weld where the two pieces join together shown in Photo #10-B. You will
do the same with #4-B and 5-B with one exception, you turn the leg to
the opposite side as shown in Illustration #12

STEP # 11

Next we will add the casters to the leg & foot assembly unit. You have
two options you can weld them on, or bolt them on it’s your choice. To
weld them on you lay the unit down as shown in Photo # 13 and position
the caster evenly, one on each end. Use a C-Clamp to hold in place and
weld around edges as shown in Photo # 13. To bolt them on you will
need to drill the holes appropriate for your casters, as the bolthole
patterns will vary on different casters. Do the same with the other leg &
foot unit.

STEP # 12

Next we need the Main Frame (1 pc) Marked #1, we will also need (2)
3/8” Bolts, (2) 3/8” Nuts, (2) Hinge Pins #12. Turn the Main Frame #1
over as shown in Photo #14 and put the bolts up through from the
underneath, place the nut over and tighten until firm. Now weld the nut
to the frame as shown in Photo # 14-B. Do the same on both ends.
Leave the bolt in and turn over the Main Frame #1 (the photo does not
show the bolt in the hole, however we decided it should stay in
throughout this procedure to keep the hole free of weld splatter). Take
your Hinge Pins #12, one goes on each end. Place it back as far as you
can keeping it flush. This is very important that you make certain that
the pins lay completely flush on the main frame. Use a C-Clamp to
secure them for welding as shown in Photo #15-B. Leave the C-clamps
on until the weld cools completely to prevent any pulling. You can
remove the bolts now.

6
STEP # 13

Next we attach the (2) Leg & Foot Units A & B to the Main Frame #1.
We need to be sure we get the correct leg units on the correct side. Lay
the Main Frame over as shown in Photo # 16-A and the Leg Unit A on
the left end of the Main Frame shown in Photo # 16-B. Using a C-clamp
to secure it in place use a square to make certain it is squared before you
weld. The relief angle should be to the inside on the
Main Frame Angle as shown in Photo# 16-C. Weld in place. Take the
Leg & Foot Unit B and place on the right end using the same
procedures.

STEP # 14

Next we will add the brace to the Main Frame Unit. Keep the Main
Frame Unit laying on it’s back. Take the Brace (1pc) 1” x 1” x 1/8“ x
75” (Marked #7), measure up from the bottom 5” on the inside of the
legs and clamp the brace in place and weld as shown in Photo #17-A and
17-B

STEP # 15

Now get the Main Forming Angle (1pc) 3” x 3” x ¼” x 76 1/8”

(marked #2) and the End Caps (2pcs) 3” x 3” x ¼” x 2 ½”
(marked #6-A & 6-B). Lay the Main Forming Angle as shown in Photo #
18-A. Take the End Cap #6-A at the left end of the Main Forming Angle
#2 as shown in Photo #18-B and place #6-B at the right end. Make sure
it is squared and use a C-clamp to secure and weld inside seem as shown
in Photo #18-C.

STEP # 16

We need to take the Main Forming Angle #2 and clamp it to the Main
Frame Unit. The Main Forming Angle is 1/8” longer than the Main
Frame so there will be a 1/16” overhang at each end. You will need to
use your level to make certain the two pieces are flush as shown in Photo
#19-A. You will need to clamp these together.

7
STEP # 16 Cont.

Now we are going to attach the Hinge Plates (2pcs) 3” x 2” x ½”

(Marked #9). Place the Hinge Plates over the Hinge Pins (this is a tight
fit, you might have to use a hammer to tap in place). Make sure the
plates are squared with the Main Forming Angle and weld as shown in
Photo # 19-C. Be sure you see the notice on Photo # 19-C. (Do not weld
past the point shown in the photo). You can now remove the C-Clamps.

STEP # 17

Take the Clamping Plates (2pcs) 3” x 2” x ½” (Marked #10), (2)

3/8” Socket Head Cap Screws, and (4) 3/8” Flat Washers. Place the first
washer over the socket head cap screw and place through the Clamping
plate and place a second washer over the bolt and spot weld the second
washer in place as shown.

Illustrations #13 & 13-B and in Photo #21-A

STEP # 18

Next get the Clamping Plate #10 and the Hold Down Clamp Unit and
the Main Frame Unit. First take the Hold Down Clamp Unit and sit it on
top of the Main Frame Unit as shown in Photo #20. You will place the
Hold Down Clamp Unit back .040” from the front edge of the Main
Frame Unit and 1 ¾” back on each end as shown in Photo #20-A. Now
place the Clamping Plate on the end of the Hold Down Clamp Unit.
Line up the bolt in the 3/8” hole in the Main Frame and also square up
the side with the edge of the Hold Down Clamp Unit and weld as shown
in Photo #21-B.

STEP # 19

Take the Handles (2pcs) 5/8” x 18” (Marked #11), turn the Main
Forming Angle up as shown in Photo #22 and clamp one Handle on
each end to the End Caps of the Main Forming Angle. Lining it up with
the Hinge Plate and the bottom of the End Cap as shown in Photo #21-A

8
Illustration #1

Hinge Pins - 5/8" X 2" Long - Cold Roll (2pcs marked 12)
End View Side View
5/16" 1"

2 5/16"
5/8" 222 #12

5/8" 2"

(Machine) Cut out the area 5/16" X 1" as shown here marked with X's.
These are the most important parts you will need to be sure of the
measuring and machining. They are what lines everything up for your
pieces to bend even and square.
Illustration #2

Main Frame - 3" X 3" X 1/4" X 76 " Long (marked # 1)

1"
1"

1 1/4" 1 1/4"
.
Drill 3/8" Hole
3" Through

#1

76 " Long
Illustration #3

Main Forming Angle - 3" X 3" X 1/4" X 76 1/8" Long (Marked #2)
1 1/4"
Side View

22 22 2 3/4"
Cut out these
portions 3/4"
Down & 1 1/4"
Over both sides
and on the opposite
corner
#2
3"
76 1/8" 3/4"
End View 3/4"
Photos of the completed
piece follows on the next page 3"
 Illustration #4

Legs - 3" X 3" X 1/4" X 31" (2pcs Marked # 4-A & 4-B)
31"

#4-A
3/8"
2
2
2
1/2"
2
1/2" This is the legs 2 pieces marked #'s 4-A & 4-B. you will need to make two cuts
shown above. This first one we will show is the releaf angle. Measure back 3/8"
1/2" and up 1/2" at one corner join marks and cut this angle off as shown.

The second cut is a 3/8" releaf on the opposite end from the angle releaf.
You will need to measure back 3/8" all the way up and then 3/8" over
the back edge as shown and cut away.

On the piece marked 4-B you will need to cut the angle and the 3/8" releaf
on the oppsite ends as shown on the next page
Illustration #5

Legs - 3" X 3" X 1/4" X 31" (2pcs marked #4-A & #4-B)

#4-B

31"
#4-A

As described on the previous page on #4-A and #4-B you

cut the 1/2" releaf angle on opposite ends. You will also cut
the 3/8" releaf on opposite ends from the 1/2" releaf angle
as shown here. There are photos to show the releaf angle
and 3/8" releaf on the next page
Illustration #6
Feet - 3" X 3" X 1/4" X 28" (2pcs #'s 5-A & 5-B)
28"
#5-A

12 1/2"

12 1/2"
#5-B

On #5-A you will need to measure and mark over

12 1/2". On #5-B you will measure and mark from the
opposite end as shown in the drawing here. This is
to line the legs up when we begin assembly. Go
ahead and set these aside.
Illustration #7

End Caps 2 1/2" X 3" - ( 2pcs marked #6-A & 6-B)

3/4" 3/4"

3"
#6A
2 3/4" 3/4"
2 #6B
Cut out the 3/4" 3"
places as shown
marked
here with
an X
3"
3"

2 1/2" 2 1/2"
Illustration #8

Hinge Plates - 3" X 2" X 1/2" (2pcs marked 9)

1/2"
Front View Side View

1/2"
5/8"

2"
Drill 5/8" Hole
Through
#9
3" 1/2"

Before you drill the 5/8" hole it would be

a good idea to first drill a pilot hole with
a 3/8" bit first to insure you get a true
5/8" hole.
Illustration #9

Clamping Plates - 3" X 2" X 1/2" (2pcs marked #10)

5/8"
Front View Side View

#10
1"

Drill 5/8" Hole 2" 5/8"

Through

3" 1/2"

Before you drill the 5/8" hole it would be

a good idea to first drill a pilot hole with
a 3/8" bit first to insure you get a true
5/8" hole.
 Illustration #10
Hold Down Clamp
3" X 3" X 1/4" X 72 1/2" - Marked #3
3" X 1/8" X 60" - Marked #8
Front View
72 1/2"
#3
#8
Stitch Weld Here
60"
5/16"

6 1/4" 6 1/4"
Weld Here

End View Set the Flat Bar

#8 5/16" back from the
3" front edge as shown
5/16" here and 6 1/4" over
#3 from each end and
stitch weld.
3"
Illustration #11
#4-A Leg and Foot Assembly

Place Leg #4-A and Foot #5-A

together as shown here making sure
they are square and weld where the join
together.

Photo # 10 shows the leg assembly and

Photo's # 11 & 12 show a close view of
the welding.

12 1/2"
#5-A
 Illustration #12 #4-B Leg and Foot Assembly

This Leg and Foot Assembly will be

put together the same way as the
first one with the exception of turning
the leg to the opposite side as shown
here in this illustration #12

Place Leg #4-B and Foot #5-B

together as shown here making sure Photo # 10 shows the leg assembly and
they are square and weld where the join Photo's # 11 & 12 show a close view of
together. the welding on next page.

12 1/2"
#5-B
Illustration #13

Clamping Plate Assembly

3/8" Washer
Exploded View Bottom of Plate

2" X 3" X 1/2"

Clamping
Plate

3/8" Washer Top of Plate

3/8" Socket
Head Cap
Screw
Illustration #14

Clamping Plate Assembly

Spot Weld Spot Weld

Around This Around This
3/8" Washer 3/8" Washer
As Shown As Shown

Bottom of Plate

2" X 3" 1/2"

Clamping
Plate

Top of Plate
3/8" Socket
Head Cap
Screw
 Now that your Brake is
completed you can paint it
any color you want.
This is what your
completed project
should look like.
Enjoy!