Restraint of the Savage Beast

Bonnie V. Beaver, DVM, MS, DPNAP, DACVB College of Veterinary Medicine Texas A&M University

Dealing with aggressive or fearful animals can be particularly stressful in a practice, but an understanding of various types of equipment and handling techniques can make these situations much less discomforting for the patient, the owner, and the veterinary staff. Each time the animal responds to a fear-evoking situation, the experience reinforces the fear. In the long run, there is a significant elevation of the problem. And, as it should be, safety to all involved is the single most important factor. There are many different types of equipment on the market designed to make working with aggressive and fearful animals easier and safer. No one thing will work in all situations. Ultimately, safety is dependent on controlling the ability of the animal to use its weapons defensively. For the dog, the main weapons are the teeth, so head control is priority one. Head halters (head collars) can be particularly useful. The Gentle Leader head halter is my top choice of commercial products in this category. This head halter can be fitted in such a way that it can be left on a dog, even if it is in the home or a cage and a leash can be left attached so that the animal is easy to capture without having to get hands anywhere near the mouth. It also gives excellent control of the head but allows the dog to pant, eat, and drink water if necessary. If I simply need moderate head control, there are a number of other types of head halters: Halti, Stop Pulling, Black Dog Halter, Comfort Trainer, Snoot Loop, Canny Collar, New Trix. The other trick that can be used in a difficult situation is to create a pseudo head halter with a thin rope leash and regular collar. The leash is attached to the collar and then the a loop is created and fed through the D-ring of the collar and over the nose of the dog. Obviously the dog can pull it off if there is slack in the rope, but in a difficult situation, firm control of the leash results in good control of the head. When one thinks of working with aggressive dogs and cats, muzzles come to mind first. For dogs, the basket muzzles are less confining to the dog and yet safe for those working with the dog. The Mikki (soft) muzzles are commonly seen in veterinary hospitals. They should fit reasonably well but not be so tight as to create panic in the dog. Simply taking away the ability of an animal to respond with its natural behavior often results in a submissive behavior. For cats, muzzles only control the teeth weapons. These are designed to not only prevent the mouth from biting, but to also cover the eyes. Many cats calm down by covering their eyes a technique that can be used to help calm a mildly fearful cat too. Excessive barking can be a real distraction to an owner and can certainly be stressful to hospitalized animals as well as to veterinary staff. There are several devices available that help reduce nuisance barking humanely. Spray collars are the most acceptable to owners and ultrasonic devices have become popular as well. In general, shock collars are not recommended for this problem because settings are difficult to set properly. E-collars are useful at separating the head (and its teeth) from the rest of the body. We particularly like the Saf-T-Shields because they are thicker and so stand up to the rigors of use some animals will give them. Another favorite type of equipment, especially for cats, is a thick

towel. It protects the hands of the person trying to hold the animal and it can be used to hide the cats face. Synthetic pheromones (Feliway and DAP) can be useful for some animals. Spraying a towel before it is used, plugging in a room diffuser, or even using an impregnated collar will give some dogs and cats the reassurance they need to prevent fear from building. Because smells are important to cats, it is recommended that owners of cats use a carrier in which the top half can be easily removed. This allows the veterinarian to be able to do a physical examination of the cat while it is still surrounded by familiar scents. One other unique cat device has been used occasionally. A Cat Scruffer Clamp puts a gently pressure on the skin and worries the cat, thus distracting it from other ongoing procedures. This has been tried at Ohio State using binder clips, and they report that some of the cats will even purr with the clips in place. One of the biggest problems people experience in restraint is the tendency to over restrain. While a little snugness can be comforting to some animals, when done by strangers, it can be very stressful. Most puppies and kittens can have routine examinations and vaccinations with cheese restraint. Because we are working in the animals personal space, it is important to be aware that it is potentially stressful. Watching the weapons and being cautious to protect yourself will ensure that a sudden change in attitude does not result in an adverse event. Carefully handling of the classic fearbiter can be safely done by remembering what the dog perceives as a threat mainly the face. Backing into a cage instead of reaching out works better. For cats there are a few extra tricks to safe handling. Mild ear twitches or held hold usually result in a freeze attitude. The lateral hold uses the head hold and front limb restraint while the cat is in lateral recumbency to position it for a jugular blood draw. Examining cats in the bottom half of a carrier gives them the security of familiar smells and they often tolerate handling that they would not on the regular table. If the cat is difficult, a thick towel can be slid between the top and bottom halves of the carrier and then wrap the towel around the cat. If anesthesia is needed, an anesthesia box can be placed over the cat instead. Because cats that are upset then to remain upset of a long time, it is always a good idea to recommend that the owner put the cat carrier and cat into a separate room, open the crate, and shut the cat in the room for several hours.