Coastal Engineering Introduction

Engineering Applications

2013-04-15

PART ONE. INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES

1 Overview
1.1 1.2 Some Terminology of the Coasts Examples of Coastal Engineering Projects

PART ONE. INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES. Typical zones.

Examples of coastal engineering projects. Cuba. Western Coasts

PART ONE. INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES. Beach Nourishment. Planform and profile dynamic.

Examples of coastal engineering projects Varadero Beach Nourishment. 5,0 million M3

Examples of coastal engineering projects Varadero Beach Nourishment. 5,0 million M3

Examples of coastal engineering projects Varadero Beach Nourishment. 5,0 million M3

Effects of groins interacting with longshore sediment transport

Shore side

Sea side

Maria La Gorda Beach & Groins. Forgetting big frame!

Maria La Gorda Beach & Groins. Forgetting big frame!

Maria La Gorda Beach & Groins. Forgetting big frame, but lucky end!

Maria La Gorda Beach & Groins. Forgetting big frame, but lucky end!

Maria La Gorda Beach & Groins. Forgetting big frame, but lucky end!

Groins

Maria La Gorda Beach & Groins. Forgetting big frame, but lucky end!

Emerged terraces

Maria La Gorda Beach & Groins. Forgetting big frame, but lucky end!

Equilibrated beach profiles

Maria La Gorda Beach & Groins. Forgetting big frame, but lucky end!

Equilibrated beach profiles

Maria La Gorda Beach & Groins. Forgetting big frame, but lucky end!

Rocks on surface, yet beach profile is equilibrated

Cuba. Cristino Naranjo Breakwater. Tetrapods 25-ton weight

Cuba. Cay Coco Roadway. 27 km with 15 bridges.

Cuba. Cay Coco Roadway. Bascule Bridge.

Spain. Cadiz. Camposoto beach

Camposoto Beach Study. Cadiz, Spain.

Camposoto Beach Study. Cadiz, Spain.

Camposoto Beach Study. Cadiz, Spain.

Ebb, Flood currents

Cadiz Port

Estuaries

Ebb, Flood currents

Sweden. Varholmen. Lile Varholmen Pier Enlargement

Sweden. Lile Varholmen Pier Enlargement

Denmark. Arkens Museum Channel

Coastal Engineering. Arken Channel Project

PART ONE. INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES. Sediment Characteristics

2 Sediment Characteristics
2.1 Sand Composition 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 Grain Sizes Shape Porosity Fall Velocity

PART ONE. INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES. Sediment Characteristics

2. Sediment Characteristics
2.1 Sand Composition (70 % from granitic mountains and quartz, 20 % feldespar, there are from calcium carbonates precipitated and from abrasion of coral reefs).

2.2 Grain Sizes. Representative normal diameter is D50, for bimodal samples: Mean diameter=(D84+D50+D16)/3
2.3
where s, sand density , sea water density g, gravity

Fall Velocity. According to Stockes law is:

d, sand diameter
, dynamic viscosity for salt water (aprox. 1/1000 N s/m2), but depends on water temperature.

PART ONE. INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES. Sediment Characteristics. Scale of Sediment Size Classification.

PART ONE. INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES

3 Long-Term Processes
3.1 Relative Sea Level Change. For 2100 estimated between 0,5 and 1,0 m. higher due to earth warming process and climate changes

PART ONE. INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES. Goteborg

sea water levels

HHW 170 +11, 69 MHW 100 +10, 99 LHW 52 +10, 51 MW 0 +9, 99 HLW -40 +9, 59 MLW -62 +9, 37 LLW -112 +8, 87
The average values refer to the year 2012. Uplift Coefficient 0, 16 cm / year The design level for structures near the sea in Gothenburg specified in comprehensive plan and is set at +12.5 which includes 1 m sea-level rise as a result of a warmer climate.

PART ONE. INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES. Coastal Protection Policies

PART ONE. INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES

3 Long-Term Processes
3.2 Equilibrium Beach Prole

The concept of an equilibrium prole, - is the average beach response to the natural forcing- makes it possible to determine several beach responses to changes in forcing.

The equilibrium profile depends on sediment size, wave height and period, and water level.

PART TWO. HYDRODYNAMICS OF THE COASTAL ZONE Profile erosion due to storm tides and waves

PART ONE. INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES.

Equilibrium prole response to sea level rise: Bruuns rule.

Equilibrium prole response to sea level rise: Bruuns rule. (a) Volume of sand generated by horizontal retreat R of equilibrium prole over vertical distance (h + B);

(b) volume of sand required to maintain an equilibrium prole of active width W owing to a rise S in mean water level;

(c) landward (R) and upward (S) components of prole translation to achieve equilibrium relative to increased sea level.

PART TWO. HYDRODYNAMICS OF THE COASTAL ZONE

4 Tides and Storm Surges

4.1 Astronomical Tides (sea level variations by gravitational influence of moon, ranging from cm. till several meters depending on location) 4.2 Storm Surges (wind velocities from scale 1: pressure<980 mbar, 96110 mph, surge 5 ft, moderate damage till scale 5: pressure <920 winds >155 mph surge >18 ft damage Catastrophic)

PART TWO. HYDRODYNAMICS OF THE COASTAL ZONE. Water waves and wave induced Hydrodynamics. Linear Theory.

5 Waves and Wave-Induced Hydrodynamics

5.1 5.2 Water Wave Mechanics Cross-Shore and Longshore Currents

(x,t) = (H/2)cos(kx-t) k=2/L and =2/T

PART TWO. HYDRODYNAMICS OF THE COASTAL ZONE.

Water waves and wave induced Hydrodynamics. Boussinesq Theory. Shallows waters

Boundary conditions: Variable depth, propagation in x direction, depth averaged velocity and free surface elevation.

PART TWO. HYDRODYNAMICS OF THE COASTAL ZONE.

Wave refraction, difraction, and reflection.

Wave refraction is produced due to interaction of sea bottom in shallow waters with waves and when bathimetry is parallel to the shore the Snell optical law can be applied with waves changing direction to shallower waters.
Wave difraction happens around the border of obstacles. Wave reflexion occurs in front of vertical walls producing stationary effects.

Wave breaking happens in shallow waters when the heigh of wave is about 0,78 water depth.

PART TWO. HYDRODYNAMICS OF THE COASTAL ZONE

Wave refraction, difraction, and reflection. Cuba. Bridges difraction.

PART TWO. HYDRODYNAMICS OF THE COASTAL ZONE.

Cross shore and longshore currents. Schematic of vertically descending eddies with arrows showing the direction of breaker travel

.
The energy radiation by obliquely incident waves and breaking produce additional longshore currents. Reflection of waves energy against shore produce crosshore currents

PART THREE. COASTAL RESPONSE

6 Field Measurement Techniques and Analysis

6.1 Beach Prole Measurements 6.2 Historical Shoreline Change. Planforms Charts 6.3 Sediment transport rates

PART THREE. COASTAL RESPONSE

8
8.1 8.2

Sediment Transport
Incipient Sand Motion and Depth of Closure Longshore Sediment Transport

Forces on a sand particle in an inclined bed. Point A denotes the point of contact between two particles. Cd and CL are drag and lift coefficient depending on Reynolds number R.

After moment balance: c/( s )gd= f (Re), c indicates critical bed shear stress for Incipient motion for a uniform depth, the left-hand side of Eq. is known as the critical Shields parameter, denoted as c , which is used as an indicator of incipient motion

PART THREE. COASTAL RESPONSE. Sediment transport

Shields curve for the initiation of motion for steady ow (Raudkivi 1967)

PART THREE. COASTAL RESPONSE. Sediment transport. Closure depth.

Hallermeir Formula for closure depth:

The variables are here functions of time measured in years, H(t)e is the signicant wave height that is exceeded during only 12 h in the time t, and T(t)e is the associated period. Longshore sediment transport: Bedload transport, which is either in sheet ow or rolled along the bottom Suspended load, which is carried up within the uid column and moved by currents Swash load, which is moved on the beach face by the swash.

For littoral transport:

PART THREE. COASTAL RESPONSE

9 Modeling of Beaches and Shorelines

9.1 Physical Modeling of Coastal Processes (wave basins and wave tanks) 9.2 Analytical Modeling (analytical equations with exact solutions for abstract models of problems, one, two or tridimensional equations) 9.3 Numerical Modeling (One, two or tridimensional equations using computing techniques and processing capacities, calibrated with labs measurements and real data under specific boundary conditions. Some use Boussinesq equation). Represent Short-term & Long-term coastal evolution
How is the randomness of the wave eld to be included? Should one representative wave train or a stochastic approach with different wave scenarios be used and the results ensemble averaged? How are the storms to be included, particularly because they play such a major role in the beach prole?

How are the tides to be included?

PART THREE. COASTAL RESPONSE

9 Modeling of Beaches and Shorelines

9.1 Physical Modeling of Coastal Processes (wave basins and wave tanks)

PART THREE. COASTAL RESPONSE

9 Modeling of Beaches and Shorelines

9.1 Physical Modeling of Coastal Processes (wave basins and wave tanks. Breakwater modeling)

PART THREE. COASTAL RESPONSE. Modular diagram for generic tridimensional coastal model

PART FOUR. SHORELINE MODIFICATION AND ANALYSIS

10 Beach Fill and Soft Engineering Structures

10.1 Beach Nourishment (Beach Fill) 10.2 Submerged Berms (modifying the waves evolution) 11 Hard Engineering Structures 11.1 Perched Beach 11.2 Groins

11.3 Offshore Breakwaters

11.4 Revetments 11.5 Seawalls

PART FOUR. SHORELINE MODIFICATION AND ANALYSIS

10.1 Beach Nourishment (Beach Fill)

PART FOUR. SHORELINE MODIFICATION AND ANALYSIS

10.1 Beach Nourishment (Beach Fill, Rainbow method)

PART FOUR. SHORELINE MODIFICATION AND ANALYSIS

Beach Fill. Qualitative illustration of three components of shoreline recession following a

beach nourishment project shown for two background erosion rates and initial nourished width of 75 m.

PART FOUR. SHORELINE MODIFICATION AND ANALYSIS

14 Shoreline Management
14.1 Options and Factors 14.2 The Role of Setbacks and Construction Standards (frozen construction shorelines spaces areas up to 500 m.)

14.3 Protective Value of a Wide Beach

PART FOUR. SHORELINE MODIFICATION AND ANALYSIS Adaptation of flood protection.

PART FOUR. SHORELINE MODIFICATION AND ANALYSIS

1. -

Climate Change will have direct and indirect effects on Coastal Areas water levels will increase wave heights may increase in some areas wave directions will change

frequency and intensity of storms will increase at least in some areas, which might also cause more intensive wave conditions This will result in: 2. Higher loads on the coast and on coastal structures

retreat of the coast

changed long-shore sediment transport

PART FOUR. SHORELINE MODIFICATION AND ANALYSIS

3. 4. -

without adaptation increase in probability of failure increase of flooded area increase of water level in flooded area higher risks in coastal areas with adaptation higher costs for coastal protection

PART FOUR. SHORELINE MODIFICATION AND ANALYSIS Swedish approach on sustainable use of coastal zones.

Varholmen. Existing Pier and Berthing Dolphins

Varholmen. Existing Pier and Berthing Dolphins

Varholmen. Existing Pier and Berthing Dolphins

Varholmen. Existing Pier and Berthing Dolphins

Varholmen. Existing Pier and Berthing Dolphins

Varholmen. Existing Pier and Berthing Dolphins

Varholmen. Existing Pier and Berthing Dolphins

Varholmen. Pier Enlargement Project

Varholmen. Rays of wind

Varholmen. Pier Enlargement Project. Varholmen waves hindcasting SMHI

Varholmen. Pier Enlargement Project. Varholmen Winds and Bathimetry

Varholmen. Pier Enlargement Project. Varholmen Main Winds, Currents and Bathimetry
Main currents in fjord against main winds and waves. Conflict of evidences!!

Coastal Engineering. Arken Channel Project

Coastal Engineering. Arken Channel Project

Coastal Engineering. Arken Channel Project

Coastal Engineering. Arken Channel Project

Coastal Engineering. Arken Channel Project

Coastal Engineering. Arken Channel Project

Coastal Engineering. Arken Channel Project

Channel Typical Section A-A and slopes. Concept Solution

Concrete slabs and blocks Crushed rocks and gravels 15,5 m. 2,5 m.

Centerline

3,15 m.

6,85 m. + 1,65 m. surface level

+ 0,35 m. water level

- 1,90 m. channel bottom Existing soil 28 m.

Channel Typical Section B-B and sheet pile walls. Concept Solution

10,0 m. + 1,65 m. surface level + 0,35 m. water level + 1,65 m. surface level

Existing soil

- 1,90 m. channel bottom

Existing soil

sheet pile walls

- 9,30 m. sheet pile foot

- 9,30 m. sheet pile foot

Coastal Engineering. Arken Channel Project. Budget.

Coastal Engineering Design data

Maritime boundaries
Coastal topography and bathymetry Geology and soil parameters Existing coastal defences and maritimes structures Erosion trends. Land cover changes (50 years). Aerial photography, satellites and surveys. Winds Waves regimes Currents Water sea level rise (long term, global changes) River and coastal sediment transport Areas of high ecological values and protection structures Coastal Management planning

General methods and toolkits in Coastal Engineering

Databases
Surveys and local campaings Numerical models Physical models Engineering references and projects Regional guidelines and coastal management policies

Approach to Coastal Engineering Problems

1. Specification of the problem and definitions on wider context (socio-economic, legal, political, environmental, administrative aspects, etc.).
2. Formulation of general objectives and desired state of knowledge, - required level of accuracy, - available time and budget. 3. Determination of problem dimensions and analysis of physical system (current state of knowledge), - relevant user functions, - physical parameters of interest, - space and time scales involved, - state of the system* (indicators). - existing knowledge (literature, charts, interviews). 4. Formulation of hypotheses related to problem, 5. Generation of alternative solutions and cost estimates, - selection and application of tools (existing databases, measurements/monitoring, models), - application of specialist knowledge. 6. Selection of optimum solution. Cost benefits analysis. Impacts, risk and consequences. - dimensions and Concept Design of Solution. 7. Discussion of results, final solution (Description, construction specifications, BOQ, Drawings, Program) - delivery, Monitoring and Control of Coastal Project System 8. Lessons learnt

* To counter the recurring problem of lack of data (waves, currents, other), a major tenet of coastal engineering should be to design exibility wherever possible into every project to correct for unknown parameters and poorly estimated factors and to allow for ne-tuning of the project afterwards.

Engineering approach to coastal engineering

The best understanding of coastal processes, including the nearshore ows and the resulting sediment transport, and the ability to transform it into effective engineering measures require the following: A blend of analytical capability,
An interest in the workings of nature, The ability to interpret many complex and apparently conicting pieces of evidence, and 4. Experience gained from studying a variety of shorelines and working with many coastal projects.

Engineering approach to coastal engineering

End of presentation.Thank for attention!