Czech & Slovak Relations A look at the Czech and Slovak Republics twenty years after the Velvet

Divorce published 22.10.2012 | comments (4) | log in to post comments Written by: Ryan Scott

On January 1st, 1993, Czechs and Slovaks didnt just celebrate the New Year; they celebrated the creation of two new countries: the Czech and Slovak Republics. The separation, dubbed the Velvet Divorce, was hailed as an example of peacefully negotiated independence. Twenty years later, a majority of people accept the decision, though desire for a united Czechoslovakia still lingers with some. Going Separate Ways Those who pine for a united Czechoslovakia see the division as the work of two men: Czech Prime Minister Vclav Klaus and his Slovak counterpart Vladimr Meiar. At the time, the state was a federation with one president Vclav Havel but a prime minister for each Republic. On assuming power in 1992, Klaus and Meiar tried to negotiate the terms of the federation. Meiar was angling for a looser federation. Klaus apparently found the demands surprising; despite the fact Meiar had been quite open about his desires. But it wasnt just nationality which divided the men. Klaus was and remains an advocate of free-market economics (at least in theory). Meiar wanted to retain some level of state support for the Slovak economy. Havel, who wanted to keep the federation, resigned in

July 1992 when separation looked inevitable. Given the supposed unpopularity of the decision to split at the time, it is tempting to see the separation as due to the actions (or ineffectiveness) of these men. Through 1991 and 1992, support for a united federation remained high, especially in the Czech lands. In Slovakia, it had majority support in 1991 but waned by July 1992. No wonder the two leaders were against a referendum.

Vclav Klaus & Vladimr Meiar Though the view is tempting, it ignores the cultural differences and points of conflict between the two nations. While Czech and Slovak relations were not on the whole marked by the ethnic tension seen in other post-communist states a fact supported by Dr. Helena Noskov, assistant editor of Listy, a periodical published by the Klub Slovenskej Kultry (Slovakian Culture Club) the desire for independence was there. This discontent had been covered over by communism, Noskov said. Discontent was both immediate and long reaching. Slovaks worried about Czech privatization and wild capitalism which, in hindsight, are well-founded given the scandals that emerged over the voucher system. Some Czechs resented supporting Slovakia and saw shedding Slovakia as a means of getting into Europe. Funny enough, it was Slovakia which integrated more fully, joining the Eurozone in 2009 while the majority of Czechs are against joining. This is not the only matter in which Czechs have changed their mind. Looking Back

Twelve years after the separation, a survey by Stedisko Empirickch Vzkumn (STEM) showed a marked change in attitudes. After a decade, more Czechs and Slovaks were in favor of the split. From the beginning I was for the separation of the Czecho-Slovak Federal Republic and I havent changed my attitude. Czech Republic 18% Slovak Republic 15% I was for the separation of the Czecho-Slovak Federal Republic, but today I think it was a mistake. Czech Republic 6% Slovak Republic 12% I was against the separation of the Czecho-Slovak Federal Republic, but today I think it was a right. Czech Republic 23% Slovak Republic 14% I was against the separation of the Czecho-Slovak Federal Republic, but I have come to terms with it. Czech Republic 31% Slovak Republic 32% From the beginning I was against the separation of the Czecho-Slovak Federal Republic and to today I havent come to terms with it. Czech Republic 22% Slovak Republic 27% Figures courtesy of STEM 2005. In the same survey, STEM found that 72% of Czechs and 61% of Slovaks had changed their mind since the time of the separation. Interestingly, those who identified as left-wing tended to oppose the separation (42%), while those who were on the right were more in favor (26%). The survey also included many younger people, who were children at the time of the split. They supported the change much more than the older generation. STEM wasnt able to provide a more recent survey, but two of the major Czech dailies ran recent surveys which show that a majority remain in favor. A poll in iDnes showed that 62% of a little over 12,000 respondents were in favor. Lidovkys much smaller sample group gave almost exactly the same proportion. Slovaks in the Czech Republic Conflicting figures emerge over the number of Slovaks in the country. According to last years census, there were 120,000 people who identified as Slovaks. Based on citizenship, the number is 84,000. The number of students is estimated at around 30,000. Its true to say that at least from personal experience you can meet Slovak people at all levels. I spoke to some of these people to get their views on the split and the relations between the two nations. Views Across the Generations

Given these figures, it was surprising to find both Czech and Slovak who were not in favor. Vlado who only gave his first name is an investment consultant working in Prague. He was quite passionate in his opposition. Why did I need a new citizenship? Im Czechoslovak. Vlado is sure that most people feel the same way as he does. His countryman Darius admitted that at the time he was opposed to the separation, but now sees it as benefit even a paradoxical one. In many areas it brought closer togetherness and enhanced cooperation, he said. The strength of the relationship has been reiterated by everyone I spoke with. Zbynk Adam runs Slovensk knihy on Jilsk Street in Pragues Old Town. Adam is Czech and so are most of his customers. He felt the separation was a good thing and agreed with it even at the time. Were not squabbling over who has to pay for what, he said. The few young Slovaks and Czechs I spoke with show equally diverse opinions. These three were all small children or born around the time of the split, so for them the two republics has always been a reality. Tom Hanzalk, David Hrdina, and Michaela Bnov are Czechs, who fall into two camps. Tom and Michaela both thought the break-up was not a good idea. It would have been better if we stayed united, said Tom. If you look at the EU, the bigger the country, the more power they have. Michaela agreed that it would have been better to stay united. We would have been stronger, she said. David, however, thought the separation was a positive step. He reasoned it was better for the Czech Republic. In my opinion, [Czechoslovakia] was slowing down our [Czech] industry. Slovakia was on a much lower level. Whats interesting is of the three David was the only one to say that he had some Slovakian heritage. His grandmother is Slovak. Andrea Kulitov, a Slovak student, had different perspective. She said that she had always taken the Czech Republic as a foreign country, and that her identity was Slovakian. From my childhood, I remember that [it was] clear and normal that Im Slovak, not Czechoslovak, so for me home was just Slovakia. Her description of her relationship with Czechs was a mixture of rivalry and camaraderie. She has Czech friends, shes studied and lived here, but when it comes to sport she might support another team. Similar, if not more intense, porting rivalry can be found among states in closer federations. All the four had slightly different responses to the question of understanding. The three Czechs said they understood though the degree varied. David, who watches Slovak TV shows, said he had no problems. Michaela and Tom said they understood most of it.

I understand about 95%, Michaela said. The rest I wonder what the hell theyre saying. Andrea, however, has found some Czech people who, in her opinion, dont want to understand Slovakian. She herself has no problem with Czech. Two decades on, it seems whether through pragmatism, national determinism, custom, or simple resignation the majority in both countries have accepted the situation. Even the two young Czechs who thought staying together was a good idea realized that the current situation wont change. And maybe their attitudes while not necessarily universal show the best compromise: that separation doesnt have to mean antagonism. What are your opinions? Should the two nations have remained a federation, or was separation the best option? Related articles Adultery, Czech Style - Rates of infidelity and attitudes to extramarital relationships Homeless Tours of Prague - Take a different view of the Golden City Do Czechs Hate Foreigners? Part 3 - Or, do foreigners hate Czechs? Vietnamese New Year starts on Feb 10 - How does the Vietnamese community celebrate in the R? Top 20 Czech Animators, Pt. 2 - The top 10 names in Czech animation Please log in to leave a comment or leave comment as guest Christmas in Prague Christmas in Prague can be a special experience. We know, that sounds completely cliche - but it's true. Christmas on Kampa Island Where else can you have a beautiful and affordable Christmas like you can in Prague? Christmas in Prague is romantic, full of tradition and fun for children too. Best of all, the crowds are surprisingly less intense. This page has a few ideas about what to see and expect during

Christmas. It also includes a few interesting local Czech traditions. Snowy Mala Strana What to See and Do The center of Christmas in Prague is Old Town. It's square is filled with Christmas markets, a concert stage and enormous tree. The markets sell a wide variety of things - so it's a great place to pick up little gifts and souvenirs. I always like to watch the blacksmith as he pounds out candlesticks or bells. Of course there's lots to eat and drink at the Christmas markets too. Decorated gingerbread is very popular in Czech Republic and I recommend trying the warm treat, trdlo. It's a doughy roll baked on a rotisserie then rolled in your choice of toppings like cinnamon, sugar and crushed nuts. Warm drinks are also on hand. Mulled wine (svak) and honey wine (medovina) are a couple of good ones. The markets start early in December and run through the first few days of January. Here's a list of a few things to consider regarding Christmas here: Concerts are a lovely warm retreat from shopping and the cold. The National Theatre always has a good program this time of year. Tours are always a good idea. A tour by foot or warm bus will take you by the markets and you can see lots of street decorations this way. A private guide of course, will offer a lot more personal insight regarding Christmas in Prague. Attend midnight mass. The Prague Cathedral (at Prague Castle) is incredible during the day. But take time to see it in action at midnight. It's very impressive to say the least. Of course, it's not heated inside, so bring your gloves. Christmas in Prague is traditionally celebrated with a meal of fried carp on the 24th of December. Locals buy carp from vendors on the street. You can't miss the large tubs of water and carp being cleaned in front of your eyes. It's just tradition. Shopping. As usual all the stores in Prague will be fairly crowded with shoppers. But, visitors usually find Prague to be cheaper than elsewhere. If you need standard gifts like clothing, head to the larger malls. There's one at the metro stations Andl and Nmst Republiky. Here you'll find stores like H&M and Zara. For authentic Czech items try the smaller shops throughout the city. You'll find a variety of antiques, ceramics, wooden toys and lots of crystal, amber and garnet shops as well.

Weather and Christmas in Prague I will be one of the fist people to wish for a white Christmas - well, me and all the children in Prague. But sadly, a white Christmas is rare. The weather in December is certainly cold enough to snow (average -2/2 C -- 27/36 F), but it seems to always come after Christmas. But, Prague is absolutely gorgeous when it snows. So, keep your fingers crossed. Of course, you can always go to higher elevations for a taste of snow. There are national parks and quite a few ski options about 2 hours from Prague. What to pack: Bring warm clothes to enjoy a cold Christmas in Prague. Gloves, hat, scarf... all those things. And, be sure to bring warm shoes and socks. You won't enjoy the attractions with cold toes!

Traditions Christmas in Prague is celebrated on the 24th of December. And of all the Czech holidays, this one brings out the most traditions. Christmas carp. Fried carp is the traditional Christmas meal. They are sold live in the streets. Baking. Many families start baking Christmas cookies far in advance. You can find them in shops as well. Other baked items include Christmas bread (vanoka) and gingerbread items (pernky).

 Czechs don't follow the Santa Claus method - here it's all about Baby Jesus (Jeiek). He arrives in a separate room from where dinner is eaten. A ring of a bell notes his arrival and children rush to the room to find presents, etc. Baby Jesus also brings a decorated Christmas tree. Most trees are kept hidden until this moment. Christmas trees are decorated with a variety of things. Our home uses items like sliced dried oranges, straw ornaments, lights and even chocolate. Other traditional items include: advent wreaths, lots of Christmas carols and as always, chocolate for kids.

Christmas Accommodation Generally hotel rates during Christmas are a bit higher than other months. But, you can still find a good deal. Consider booking early or even very late if you can chance it. There's always a deal to be found. Some specialty hotels will fill up rather fast, but the hotels are often less booked than New Year's. You can save money and have more space by booking an apartment. Apartments are ideal for families spending their Christmas in Prague. Get your accommodation right - it's very important. If you have a question about a hotel's location or reputation feel free tocontact us. Quick Guide to Prague Castle Prague Castle deserves plenty of attention. It's the largest castle in the world and is the seat of the Czech government. The castle has become a symbol of Czech Republic as a

whole. And in our opinion, it's the most important tourist site or monument in Prague. The castle is actually a complex of buildings. It's almost a small town on its own with a variety of walls, gardens and buildings. Founded in the year 880, Prague Castle took nearly 700 years to complete. So, we recommend giving the castle plenty of time to experience. Then, come back once more before you depart. Tickets to Prague Castle The castle grounds, gardens and much of the cathedral are free to enter. But, tickets are required for many individual buildings and areas. There are two basic unguided tickets to Prague Castle, the long tour and the short tour. Tickets are good for two days. The long tour is 350 CZK and gets you into each area of the castle (see map). While, the short tour is 250 CZK and doesn't include the two galleries and "The Story of Prague Castle". NOTE: You can also pay to enter some individual areas. Get official admission details here. TIP: Get the short tour ticket unless you really fancy the galleries. This will give you plenty to see. Spend the rest of your time exploring the castle grounds and enjoying the various views above the city.

St. Vitus Cathedral St. Vitus' Cathedral (or Prague Cathedral) is the most recognizable part of Prague Castle. Its size and imposing spires seems like an entire castle unto itself. Founded in 1344 by Charles IV it now combines Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. Over centuries, changes have been made to the cathedral until its consecration in 1929. There is a small free area in the rear of the cathedral for those who wish to pray. But tourists should consider buying either along or short tour ticket - see ticket info above. These tickets will give you access to the entire cathedral and a fuller idea of the history represented here.

At the northern end, you will find incredible effigies, statues, the Royal Mausoleum and the impressive silver tomb of St. John of Nepomuk. Be sure not to overlook the stairs leading down to the Royal Crypt. It houses remains of past Czech leaders such as Charles IV, Rudolf II and Wenceslas IV. The cathedral also includes a number of side chapels. Be sure not to miss theChapel of St. Wenceslas. Its detail and decor is exquisite. But even more intriguing might be the nearby door with seven locks. Behind this door is a staircase to the Coronation Chamber and the Czech crown jewels. The jewels are only displayed publicly upon word of the president which is very rare. TIP: If you don't mind tight spaces, climb the narrow stairs up the cathedral's tower. You will pass the clockworks and enormous 16th century bells on your way to splendid views. The whole experience will be incredibly memorable.

Watch Our Video of the Castle Take 47 seconds and watch our video of the castle to get an idea of how massive and complex the area is. Oh, and of course, the views from a variety of spots around the castle are spectacular.

Old Royal Palace Just next to St. Vitus Cathedral sits the Old Royal Palace. It dates from the 10th century and has been the home of numerous princes and kings. And, every president of the republic has been sworn in here. A particular highlight of the palace is Vladislav Hall (pictured). Its beautifully interlaced ceiling is absolutely remarkable. The hall has been used for banquets, coronations and even jousting tournaments. Knights entered the hall from the aptly named Riders' Staircase.

The exhibition The Story of Prague Castle can be found on the ground floor of the palace. Admission is included in the long tour. It's a quick way to see the changes and developments of 1000 years of Prague Castle.

St. George's Basilica St. George's Basilica has Romanesque foundations dating to the 10th century. But most of what is seen today is from subsequent modifications in later years (19th and 20th centuries). The basilica remains one of my favorites. It somehow maintains a simplicity that seems more personal and separates itself from other Prague churches. The basilica includes the tombs of Prince Boleslav II and Prince Vratislav I (founder) both from the 10th century. Under the stairs you will find the crypt of the Premysl kings. And, be sure to find the bizarre sculpture of Vanity from the 16th century. Adjacent to the basilica is the Convent of St. George. This was the first convent in Bohemia and dates from 973. The convent now houses the National Gallery and its impressive Gothic and baroque art collection. (Like most museums and galleries in Prague, the National Gallery is closed on Mondays.) TIP: You can buy single admission tickets to the basilica. If you're short on time or cash, visit St. Vitus for free and buy a ticket for the basilica only.

Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower The Golden Lane is a small romantic row of 16th century dwellings. They were originally built as homes for castle servants, marksmen and possibly goldsmiths - hence the name. The homes were occupied until World War II and Franz Kafka lived at No. 22 for a brief time. Today the lane is marked by little souvenir shops. We wouldn't say the lane is essential sightseeing, but the buildings are certainly a unique feature to Prague. You can enter the lane with either tour ticket or it's free after 4 pm. The Daliborka Tower was built in the 15th century as part of the castle's fortifications.

The bottom floor was used as a prison and the tower is named after its first prisoner, Dalibor of Kozojedy. Today there is an exhibition of gruesome torture devices and a history of prison "services" from the Middle Ages to the 18th century.

TIP: The Golden Lane is narrow and can get quite crowded - so visit in the late afternoon when the crowds thin out a bit. After 4 pm it's free without a tour ticket!

Powder Tower (Mihulka) The Powder Tower is another fortification tower built in the 15th century - similar to Daliborka Tower. It sits on the north end of the castle grounds and overlooks the Stag Moat. Admission is included in either tour ticket or you can buy a single admission ticket. The tower was never battle tested and likely has a more interesting history based on its prior inhabitants. In the 16th century the bell maker Tomas Jaros lived and worked here. And his bell, Zikmund, still rings overhead in the cathedral's bell tower. Jaros also made the Singing Fountain which is still in use in the Royal Gardens. During the rule of Rudolf II, the tower was inhabited by alchemists who were convinced they could turn lead into gold. Afterward it was used as a storage for gunpowder - hence the tower's name. TIP: Have a look through the little windows for pleasant views of Prague and the Stag Moat. There's a very nice pathway through the Stag Moat that is hardly visited. Check it out if you have some extra time.

Castle Picture Gallery The Picture Gallery offers a significant European collection of nearly 4,000 paintings. The collection was first started by Rudolf II in the 16th century. His joy for art compelled

him to acquire a variety of works. The collection is now housed just off the second courtyard of the castle. The building is the former imperial stables where Rudolf II kept his Spanish horses and rotates a number of paintings from the permanent collection as well as temporary ones. The collection includes works from Lucas Cranach, Tintoretto, Titian and others.

TIP: Admission is free every Monday from 4pm to 6pm.

Prague Castle Gardens There are at least six gardens that encircle Prague Castle. And, thankfully they are all free. The gardens range from carefully terraced and manicured to a bit wild and reclusive. Some gardens have limited accessibility (April - October). But, when everything is open, you can walk a green ring almost all the way around the castle. I particularly like the Stag Moat (Jeleni Prikop) on the northern side of the castle. Turn right just before the guarded northern entrance to the castle and follow the path down into the moat. Even in summer this relaxing pathway is nearly deserted. There's a cafe hidden just above the moat for a nice refreshment. The gardens also include a variety of walls and beautiful buildings. The Summer Palace, located at the eastern end, was built by Emperor Ferdinand I for his wife, Anne Jagiello. Many people consider it to be the "most beautiful building north of the Alps." On the southern slopes of the castle you'll find a maze of grapevines and incredible views over Mala Strana. But, you'll need a little extra time to find some of the more interesting spots. But it's well worth it.

View The Castle in a larger map

Prague Castle - final thoughts It's easy to spend a whole day touring the castle. But, it's do-able in half a day. It just depends on whether or not you choose a tour or individual spots of interest. If you can, get out early or visit in the afternoon. The crowds are thinner then. If you need a place to eat and don't want a tourist hot spot, find U Zavnho Kafejust below the castle at Uvoz 6. Good Czech food with local prices.