TREASURE OF AN ISLAND TREASURE OF AN ISLAND

By Josie Dale Josie Dale

Stewart Island is one of New Zealands last frontiers a place every Kiwi Stewart Island is one of New Zealands last frontiers should experience. a place every Kiwi should experience.

The bar is jumping regulars and tourists happily sample the favourite Southern Man pride of the south beverage while enthusiastically supporting the Sunday evening quiz. The Amazonian quizmaster, adorned with colourful tattoos and multiple skin piercings, expertly works the crowd. Her vocabulary is liberally peppered with Gordon Ramsays favourite expletive, and the locals love it. She spies me whi spering the answer to a question and bellows an obscenity good-naturedly across the crowded bar. A group of female English tourists abandon all pretence of eating their meal and stare wide-eyed. My husband, Alistair, and I enjoy the atmosphere of the South Sea Hotel, Stewart Island, over a glass of chardonnay and our favourite fish, blue cod, fresh from the sea.

The famous South Sea Hotel, Oban

Living on Waiheke Island, we experience occasional rough crossings, but friends gleefully related horror stories that left me slightly apprehensive of Foveaux Strait. Happily the day dawned fine and calm in Bluff. An hour later wed arrived in Oban, Halfmoon Bay.

Oban wharf, Stewart Island

The ferry was carrying the equivalent of 25 per cent of the islands permanent population, but Oban seemed almost deserted once the passengers disembarked and went bush.

The hotel was only a short walk from our motel very handy. Wed strolled down the hill for a beer with the locals, but on Good Friday the bar was closed. New Zealands strange liquor-licensing laws reach even its most remote corners. The friendly barmaid said her regulars were grumpy about being denied their evening session.

We wake next day to a stunning sunrise the sea glistening pink and gold. Hopefully the old adage, red sky in the morning, shepherds warning, does not apply today. Rakiura is the islands commonly known Maori name and we witness the translation Glowing Skies.

The famous hotel breakfast beckons. Our waitress confirms poached eggs are available with pan-fried blue cod, but chef has other ideas. My breakfast arrives toast with three large blue cod fillets (but no eggs just as well), delicious, and all for a bargain price! The feisty islanders, welcoming and ready to yarn, speak of going to New Zealand as though its another country. Judging by the footwear of choice, Taihapes claim to Gumboot Capital of the World is severely threatened. We learn the population of 400 is supported mainly by fishing, tourism, conservation and aquaculture. That explains the preponderance of rubber boots. Rakiura National Park, favoured destination of wilderness trampers, covers 85 per cent of Stewart Island. One of New Zealands Great Walks, the Rakiura Track, takes about three days. Experienced trampers take 10 to 12 days to walk the full 125km North West Circuit and during the high season Department of Conservation (DoC) huts are bursting at the seams. We have neither the time nor energy this trip and settle on shorter day walks around Oban, and a comfortable bed at night. Even close to the village the bush is beautiful, and singing with bird life. The kaka are especially fascinating but I imagine they cause much angst amongst keen gardeners. They could easily be mistaken for their cousin the kea, as screeching raucously, they fly high above, searching for a garden to plunder.

One of the beautiful beaches near Oban Ulva Island, a 260ha open wildlife sanctuary, forms part of the Rakiura National Park, managed by DoC. Water taxis leave from Golden Bay, a 15-minute walk over the hill from Oban. Our rosy-cheeked skipper, clad in grubby track-pants and the ubiquitous gumboots, is a man of few words One each side of the boat to balance it, pickup at 2.50 a silent ten minute trip ensues! Walking tracks on Ulva are well marked and formed. The primeval bush has an almost spiritual feel a magnificent cathedral of lush green disturbed only by birds and insects, or the occasional walker quietly savouring the peaceful atmosphere.

Chirruping wekas pursue us doggedly along the track like greedy chooks. They are real characters, trying to persuade visitors to ignore DoC signs prohibiting the feeding of wildlife.

Inquisitive Robin, Ulva Island We walk West End Beachs golden crescents and witness a lone weka raiding the lunches of shrieking Americans. In the bush we spot several birds including NZ parakeets, inquisitive Stewart Island robins, tomtits and tui. Apparently kiwi are often about during daylight.

West End beach, Ulva Island Having travelled the world, were a little ashamed we reached retirement before visiting Stewart Island. This is a place every Kiwi should experience at least once. We vow well be back.

Photos and words by Josie Dale