Zuppe

Acquacotta - 'COOKED WATER' Acquacotta II - 'LIGHT VEGETABLE SOUP' PASTA & BEAN SOUP - Pasta fazool BREAD SOUP BROCCOLI SOUP BROTH, CLASSIC ITALIAN BROTH WITH EGG ROMAN-STYLE - Stracciatella alla Romana CARDOON SOUP CHICKPEA, TOMATO AND PASTA SOUP - Pasta e ceci CHICKEN BROTH CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP - La Minestrina CHICKPEA SOUP - Cicerchie PASTA & CHICKPEA SOUP CIOPPINO - ITALIAN FISH SOUP EGG AND CHEESE DUMPLING SOUP - Passatelli EGG AND MARSALA WINE SOUP - Ginestrata FISH BROTH FARRO - Zuppa di farro CASTILIAN GARLIC SOUP - Sopa de ajo GREENS & MEATBALL SOUP HOT AND SOUR SOUP ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP WITH MEATBALLS AND SPINACH - Zuppa maritata ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP WITH MEATBALLS, CHICKEN, ENDIVE AND ESCAROLE Zuppa maritata LEEK & POTATO SOUP WITH VARIATIONS LENTIL & ESCAROLE RED LENTIL SOUP LENTIL SOUP WITH PASTA MEAT BROTH MINESTRONE MILAN STYLE SUMMER MINESTRONE MINESTRONE TUSCAN COUNTRY STYLE - Minestrone di verdura MINESTRONE WITH RICE - Minestrone di riso MUSSEL SOUP PASSATELLI - Northern Broth with Egg, Breadcrumbs and Cheese PASTA AND VEGETABLE SOUP PAVESE STYLE WITH EGGS AND BREAD - Zuppa Pavese PEA SOUP WITH CROUTONS - Cecamariti PEA SOUP - TRADITIONAL PORK NOODLE SOUP WITH ASIAN VEGETABLES RICE AND PEA SOUP - Risi e bisi SARDINIAN SOUP RECIPE - Zuppa Sarda SARDINIAN PORK AND CAULIFLOWER SOUP - Cavolata SAUSAGE AND BEAN SOUP RECIPE SWISS CHARD AND CHICKPEA SOUP

TOMATO SOUP WITH PASTA FROM CALABRIA TOMATO SOUP and CREAMY TOMATO SOUP TORTILLA SOUP TUSCAN BEAN SOUP - La ribollita VEGETABLE BROTH VEGETABLE SOUP WITH RICE - Minestrone di riso WHITE FISH SOUP WINTER VEGETABLE SOUP

CHICKPEA, TOMATO AND PASTA SOUP

Pasta e ceci Preparation - Easy Serves 4 Tasty and satisfying meal. Serve with a tossed green or a tomato salad and crusty Italian or French bread.

1 15-oz can plum tomatoes crushed or pureed in a food processor 1 3-inch sprig fresh rosemary or 1/2 t dried rosemary, oregano or thyme 4 cups beef or chicken broth 2 15 1/2 oz cans chickpeas, drained 5 oz dry pasta (about a cup) - elbow macaroni, or if large pasta break into smaller bits 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 1/3 cup grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese (this dish has a delicate flavor, taste it without cheese first) 3 T extra virgin olive oil salt and freshly-ground black pepper

large pot or saucepan.

SAUT garlic in olive oil till golden. ADD tomatoes and rosemary. Substitute fresh or dry oregano or thyme for the rosemary if you prefer. SIMMER uncovered for 5 minutes. ADD the broth; return to a simmer. ADD pasta. WHILE pasta is cooking, puree 1 cup chickpeas in a food processor or mill. Stir the pureed chickpeas into the broth along with the pasta, some salt and freshly ground pepper. SIMMER, uncovered till the pasta is cooked to your taste (6-12 minutes). ADD remaining whole chickpeas and heat thoroughly. SERVE in soup plates. Pass Parmesan if you wish. NOTE: The pasta absorbs the broth - the longer it sits, the less liquid the soup will be.
Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

COOKED WATER

Acquacotta
Tuscany Preparation - Easy Serves 4

See also: Acqua Cotta II Acquacotta means 'cooked water' in Italian and this simple dish has as many variations as there are people who serve it. (two portions shown)

1 medium onion, thinly sliced 2 + 4 (optional) TBSP extra virgin olive oil 1 medium tomato, diced 1 stalk celery, with leaves, chopped fine 1 quart water 1 leaf basil (some recipes call for 'wild mint' instead) 4 thick slices of stale bread, preferably French or Italian bread - can be toasted 4 fresh eggs at room temperature (optional) salt and pepper to taste grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese

Large, heavy saucepan. IN a heavy saucepan large enough to accommodate the soup, on low/medium heat, saut the sliced onion in the two tablespoons of olive oil until soft and transparent - golden but not browned. ADD the diced tomato and continue sauting on low heat until soft and

combined with onion. ADD 1 quart of water, the chopped stalk of celery, the basil, salt to taste. Cover and cook at very low simmer for an hour. ABOUT five minutes before serving, crack the eggs into a separate bowl and add to the broth. They should cook until the whites are firm, the yellows liquid, about 5 minutes. You can spoon hot soup over the eggs to speed the cooking process. PLACE one slice of the bread (best toasted) in each warmed serving bowl. TASTE soup for seasoning, add salt and pepper if needed, then pour the soup into the bowls, one egg and one T olive oil (optional) in each bowl. SERVE with ample grated cheese.

'COOKED WATER' - A LIGHT VEGETABLE SOUP

Acquacotta
Tuscany Preparation - Easy, but pay attention!

Serves 4

See also: Acqua Cotta I A soup often prepared in the Tuscan countryside. Each cook has his/her version of it using the same ingredients in different quantities and the best olive oil available. This is another inventive use for day or two old bread. This version beats the egg with the cheese before adding to the soup.

1/3 cup olive oil 1 large onion, very thinly sliced or chopped 2 celery stalk with leaves, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, peeled and sliced 1 lb fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or 1 14 - 16 oz can chopped tomatoes fresh thyme, oregano or sage to taste (optional) salt and freshly ground pepper 4 fresh eggs 4 T freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese 8 thick slices of white bread, slightly stale

Heavy saucepan. HEAT the oil in a heavy saucepan. Add the onion and celery and saut over medium/low heat till transparent; 5 -7 minutes, stirring frequently. Do not let onions brown. RAISE heat slightly, add garlic and tomatoes and an herb if using one cooking for 5 minutes more. Stir occasionally. MEANWHILE bring 5 to 6 cups of water to a boil. ADD to the tomato mixture, season with salt and pepper and cook about 1/2 an hour. TASTE for seasoning. TOAST the bread. IN a separate bowl, beat the eggs lightly with the cheese.

REMOVE saucepan from heat and immediately beat in the egg and cheese mixture. PUT the bread in preheated individual soup bowls and ladle on the soup. GARNISH with an herb if you wish. PASS a bowl of grated cheese at table.

PASTA AND BEANS RECIPE

57

Pasta fazool
Puglia Preparation: Medium Prep time: 10 min Cook time: 2 hours Total time: 2 hour 10 min Yield: Serves 4 Vegetarian

A very simple dish, soupy enough to be served in bowls rather than on plates. INGREDIENTS:

1 cup dried white beans, such as cannellini or Great Northern, soaked overnight, or use the *quick-soak method, or 14 oz can, washed and drained 4 TBSP olive oil, plus more for serving 1/2 medium onion, coarsely chopped 1/2 medium carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped 1/2 celery rib, coarsely chopped 1 - 2 garlic cloves to taste, minced 1/2 cup finely chopped ripe plum tomatoes or canned whole plum tomatoes, drained 1 fresh rosemary sprig, finely chopped about 3 1/2 cups boiling water 1/3 package (lb) fusilli, small pasta shells, small ziti, or fettuccine or tagliatelle broken into roughly 2-inch lengths salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/4 cup minced flat-leaf parsley freshly grated Parmigiano cheese for garnish

Large, heavy saucepan with cover. Food processor (to puree some of the beans, makes thicker soup). METHOD: 1. DRAIN the beans and set aside. 2. HEAT the oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat and gently saut the onion, carrots, celery, and garlic until the vegetables are soft but not brown, about 10 minutes. 3. ADD the beans to the vegetables along with the tomatoes, rosemary, and about 3 cups boiling water. 4. BRING back to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, until the beans are tender - 1 to 1 1/2 hours, depending on the age and size of the beans. 5. ADD more boiling water from time to time as necessary: the beans should always be covered with simmering liquid. 6. WHEN the beans are very tender, transfer about 2 cups beans and their liquid to a food processor and process to a thick puree. Or put them through the medium disk of a food mill. 7. STIR the puree back into the beans. 8. ADD the pasta and another cup of boiling water to the beans in the pot. Cook, stirring constantly, until the pasta is tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Taste and add salt and lots of black pepper.

9. SERVE in a warm soup tureen or in individual warm bowls, garnished with a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkle of parsley, and some Parmigiano. 10. PASS more cheese and olive oil with the soup. 11. MOST beans and legumes should be soaked before cooking - lentils are a notable exception. To soak them, simply place them in a bowl with twice their quantity of fresh cool water. Set aside overnight. In the morning, discard the soaking water and start the cooking process with fresh water. 12. *Quick-soak method: Set the beans in a saucepan with twice their quantity of fresh cool water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat and boil rapidly, covered, for 1 to 2 minutes. Then remove from the heat and set aside, still covered, for an hour or more. Drain the beans and use fresh water for cooking. Nutritional Data, per portion Calories 378 Carbohydrate 61g Protein 18g Sodium 25mg 6g Fat 8g Cholesterol 0 Saturated Fat 1g Monounsaturated Fat

BREAD SOUP FROM PUGLIA

Pancotto Puglia Preparation - Medium Serves 6 - 8 The name means simply cooked bread, and like so many similar soups all over Italy the key ingredient is slightly stale bread. In Italian, the bread, once it's no longer fresh, is called pane raffermo, meaning bread that has firmed up - a nicer terminology than our "stale bread" with its negative connotation of bread that is no longer any good. Ideally, pancotto should be flavored with lots of wild herbs and greens like borage, wild fennel, wild chicory, and rocket or arugula, but if you can't find these herbs, use a handful of fresh rosemary, thyme, basil, sage, arugula, and/or parsley, combined and chopped.

The vegetables can be varied with the season - add a handful of fresh fava beans in springtime, a few cauliflower florets in the fall, or bright cubes of butternut squash in winter.

8 TBSP cup chopped fresh wild or garden herbs (see above) 2 zucchini, quartered and cut in chunks 1/2 lb fresh green beans, broken in short lengths 1 lb small new potatoes, preferably white ones, their skins rubbed off - or larger potatoes, peeled and cut in chunks 2 ripe red tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped, or 1 1/2 cups drained canned tomatoes 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed with the flat blade of a knife 8 TBSP cup chopped white onion salt 2 - 1-inch-thick slices slightly stale country-style bread 1/2 small dried hot red chile pepper freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

IN a stockpot or soup kettle place the herbs, zucchini, green beans, potatoes, tomatoes, garlic, and onion and cover with water to a depth of one inch. ADD salt to taste and bring to a simmer over high heat, then turn the heat down to medium-low, cover the pot, and cook until the potatoes are tender, 20 to 30 minutes. CUT the crusts off the bread slices and soak briefly in water, then squeeze the bread to get rid of all the water. TEAR and crumble the soaked bread and add to the simmering soup along with the chile pepper. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the bread has thoroughly broken down and thickened the soup, about 10 minutes longer. TASTE and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt if necessary and pepper if desired. SERVE the soup immediately, with a good dollop of olive oil or olio santo and a little sprinkle of freshly chopped green herbs atop each serving. OPTIONAL: You may also pass a bowl of freshly grated pecorino or Parmigiano-Reggiano at table.

Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

Broccoli Soup Recipe

Prep: 10; Cook: 20 Preparation - Medium Serves 2

This delicious and satisfying soup has several variations... follow your palate!

8 cups small broccoli florets (about a pound) 2 cups fat-free chicken broth 1 large onion chopped (optional) 2 TBS olive oil or butter 2 cups 2% fat milk - or 1 cup milk, 1/2 cup half and half 1 TBS fresh lemon juice 1/2 tsp salt 1/4 tsp black pepper Dash of nutmeg 1/2 cup grated Parmesan or cheddar

Heavy saucepan, small saucepan, blender or food processor.

PUT broccoli and chicken broth in a saucepan. (Optional) SAUT onions in oil or butter till transparent and add to broccoli and broth. BRING to a simmer, simmer till broccoli is soft, about 4 minutes. PUT broccoli mixture in food processor, 1 or 2 cups at a time, process till smooth. RETURN pureed mixture to saucepan. ADD milk to broth and broccoli, stir till well-blended and slightly thickened. SIMMER for 2 to 3 minutes. ADD lemon juice, salt, pepper and nutmeg. STIR, serve with a sprinkling of cheese on top. *VARIATION add a dollop of sour cream instead of the cheese

RICH, CLASSIC ITALIAN BROTH FROM EMILIA ROMAGNA

Brodo classico
Difficulty: Medium Prep: 30 min, Cook: 4 hrs

This savory broth is a great standby, a base for other soups or enjoy on its own or with a bit of pasta or rice. Freezes well.

2 pounds beef chuck I 2 1/2 pound chicken, with giblets 2 pounds marrow bones

6 quarts cold water 1 large yellow onion, larded with 1 clove (stick one clove into the raw onion) 5 medium carrots, scrubbed 3 leeks, roots and green stalks removed, cleaned 2 ribs of celery, cleaned 3 fresh tomatoes, quartered 2 bay leaves, crushed 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon thyme 1/2 teaspoon finely minced garlic 1 teaspoon salt 3 peppercorns 4 egg whites

8 qt. soup pot, strainer, whisk, bowl, cheesecloth or kitchen towel.

1. Place beef, chicken, chicken giblets, and marrow bones in soup pot. Add 6 quarts cold water and bring slowly to a boil. Remove scum that forms on top of water. 2. Add the onion, carrots, leeks, celery, tomatoes, bay leaves, parsley, thyme, garlic, salt, and peppercorns, and simmer very slowly for 3 1/2 hours. Remove meats and use as desired. 3. Strain broth, and place, uncovered, in refrigerator until all fat has congealed at the top. Remove all fat and strain broth through a cheesecloth. 4. Clarification: With a wire whisk beat 1 1/2 cups broth with the egg whites into a very clean greaseless bowl. Bring rest of broth to a boil in a clean saucepan. Then, continually beating the egg white mixture, grad- ually pour the boiling broth into it in a very thin stream. Return mixture to saucepan and set over moderate heat until it barely reaches a simmer, continually stirring it slowly with the wire whisk so that egg whites cir- culate constantly. As soon as the liquid begins to simmer, stop stirring. The egg whites will mount to the surface. Reduce heat even further, so that liquid no longer simmers, and cook for another 10 minutes. 5. Line a colander with four or five layers of clean, damp

cheesecloth and place over a very clean, greaseless bowl. The colander should be of a size that its bottom will not touch the surface of the liquid which is to be poured into the bowl. Very gently ladle the broth and egg whites into the cheesecloth, disturbing the egg whites as little as possible. The liquid will drain through, leaving the egg whites behind. Let egg whites drain undisturbed for 5 minutes before removing colander and discarding egg whites. MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS

BROTH WITH EGG ROMAN-STYLE

Straciatella alla Romana Rome-Lazio Preparation - Easy Serves 4 - 6 A classic Roman soup that is quick, tasty and satisfying. 4 eggs 4 T freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt Nutmeg, a pinch or more to taste 5 cups meat broth Bring the broth or stock to a boil then reduce to a bare simmer. As broth heats, beat the eggs with a fork in a bowl along with the nutmeg, salt and Parmesan. Pour in eggs mixture, beating continuously with a whisk or fork. As soon as the eggs have broken into strands and are cooked through, the soup is ready. Serve hot with toasted Italian-style bread.

CARDOON SOUP
Cardoncie' in brodo Puglia Preparation - Difficult Serves 4 - 6 In February, when spiny clumps of wild cardoons dot the fields and hedgerows of the Massemia Cirillo in the rolling grasslands south of Foggia, Gigliola Bacile uses the wild greens to make a robust soup that is hearty enough for a main course at supper. Traditionally, the soup was made with lamb or mutton broth, with bits of the meat adding sustenance; this lighter version uses vegetable broth, and just a little chopped ham at the end. This, with the beaten-egg stracciatelle (rags), gives the soup extra body. Wild cardoons require laborious cleaning to rid them of their spines and tough filaments, but, as far as I can tell, they are unobtainable in America anyway. Garden-grown cardoons can be found in ethnic or health-food markets and are a fine substitute when you can get them; use only the thick ribs, stripping away the leaves and chopping the ribs in short lengths. Elizabeth Schneider, in her excellentUncommon Fruits and Vegetables, says that cardoons should be precooked in a vast amount of boiling water for 15 to 30 minutes, until tender, then drained and used in the recipe. Since artichokes and cardoons are closely related and have a similar flavor, I have also made this soup very successfully with artichoke hearts - once, indeed, with canned artichoke hearts. 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped 2 T extra virgin olive oil 2 stalks celery, including green tops, coarsely chopped 1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 cup canned chopped tomatoes 4 cups light Chicken Broth or Vegetable Broth salt to taste 2 lbs cardoons, cleaned and trimmed, or 2 pounds artichokes, trimmed to hearts and quartered 1 small dried hot red chile pepper, optional 1 cup very flavorful baked ham or mortadella sausage cubes 1 egg for every 2 people served

In a heavy soup kettle over medium-low heat, saut the garlic and onion very gently in the oil until they are soft but not brown. Add the celery and parsley and continue cooking another 5 minutes or until the celery starts to soften. Stir in the chopped tomatoes, mixing well. Then add the stock. Cover the pan and bring the soup to a boil. Taste, adding salt if desired, then cover again and leave the soup to simmer gently for 15 minutes. Coarsely chop the trimmed cardoons or artichoke hearts and add to the soup. Cover again and simmer about 45 minutes. Add the hot red pepper, if desired, and the ham and let cook another 5 minutes, or just long enough to develop the flavors. The soup may be prepared ahead of time up to this point. Beat the eggs in a small bowl. Bring the soup to a very slow simmer and slowly pour the beaten eggs into it, stirring them into the soup with a fork. The eggs will cook and scramble into stracciatelle (rags), which is what they're supposed to do. Remove from the heat and serve immediately. VARIATION: If you want to make a more traditional version of this old fashioned soup, first make a lamb broth, using very meaty bones - breast of lamb, if you can get it, is an excellent cut for broth-along with the usual flavorings (onion, garlic, carrot, parsley, and herbs if you like). Strain and degrease the broth and use it in place of the chicken or vegetable broth in the recipe. Pick the meat off the soup bones, chop it fine, and add to the soup in place of the ham.

Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

SARDINIAN PORK AND CAULIFLOWER SOUP RECIPE

Cavolata
Preparation: medium Prep: 25 Cook: 2:40

Serves 6

You might try ham hock and bacon as substitutes.

1 pig's foot 4 pound pork rind 1 onion 2 stalks celery 2 carrots 2-3 sprigs parsley salt 1 cauliflower 1 2 medium potatoes, pealed and diced grated Pecorino or Parmesan cheese

Large Saucepan with cover.

CLEAN the trotter and rind thoroughly, and scrape them if necessary. PUT them into a large pan with the vegetables, parsley sprigs and a little salt. Cover with at least 7 1/2 pints water, cover the pan, bring slowly to the boil, and simmer over a low heat for about 2 hours. IN the meantime, pull off the outer stalks of the cauliflower and divide the head into flowerettes. WHEN the trotter and rind are very soft, take them from the pan and put them aside to cool. Strain the stock and return it to the pan, together 'with the cauliflower and the diced potatoes. Check for seasoning, bring to the boil again and cook, covered, over a low- heat for about 20 to 30 minutes. BONE the trotter and cut the meat into small pieces. Cut the rind into pieces of the same size. Return both to the pan and simmer until heated through. Serve the soup very hot, garnished with plenty of grated cheese.

From: Italian Regional Cooking (R)

CHICKPEA, TOMATO AND PASTA SOUP

Pasta e ceci Preparation - Easy Serves 4 Tasty and satisfying meal. Serve with a tossed green or a tomato salad and crusty Italian or French bread.

1 15-oz can plum tomatoes crushed or pureed in a food processor 1 3-inch sprig fresh rosemary or 1/2 t dried rosemary, oregano or thyme 4 cups beef or chicken broth 2 15 1/2 oz cans chickpeas, drained 5 oz dry pasta (about a cup) - elbow macaroni, or if large pasta break into smaller bits 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 1/3 cup grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese (this dish has a delicate flavor, taste it without cheese first) 3 T extra virgin olive oil salt and freshly-ground black pepper

large pot or saucepan.

SAUT garlic in olive oil till golden. ADD tomatoes and rosemary. Substitute fresh or dry oregano or thyme for the rosemary if you prefer. SIMMER uncovered for 5 minutes. ADD the broth; return to a simmer.

ADD pasta. WHILE pasta is cooking, puree 1 cup chickpeas in a food processor or mill. Stir the pureed chickpeas into the broth along with the pasta, some salt and freshly ground pepper. SIMMER, uncovered till the pasta is cooked to your taste (6-12 minutes). ADD remaining whole chickpeas and heat thoroughly. SERVE in soup plates. Pass Parmesan if you wish. NOTE: The pasta absorbs the broth - the longer it sits, the less liquid the soup will be.
Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

CHICKEN BROTH
Brodo di Pollo Puglia Preparation - Medium Makes about 10 cups Using a so-called free-range or naturally raised bird is the only way to produce a good flavorful chicken broth. These are available in farmers' markets and natural-foods stores, and increasingly in supermarkets, and they make all the difference in the world. Commercial birds are often bland and don't produce a rich and aromatic stock. 1-4 to 5-pound chicken, or 4 to 5 pounds chicken parts, including wings and backs

2 unpeeled onions, quartered 1 medium carrot, quartered 1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves about 10 cups water salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Put all the ingredients in a heavy stockpot or soup kettle, adding more water if necessary to cover the bird to a depth of one inch. Place the pot over medium heat and slowly bring to a simmer, skimming off any froth that rises to the top. Cover the kettle, lower the heat, and simmer very gently for 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours, or until the bird is falling apart. Strain the broth in a colander through a double layer of cheesecloth, discarding the solids. Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning, keeping in mind that if the broth is to be reduced later it will concentrate the salt. Put the strained stock in the refrigerator to let the fat rise and solidify, after which it may be removed easily with a slotted spoon.

Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP ITALIAN STYLE

La minestrina Preparation - Easy Serves 2 An appetizing soup especially when nursing a cold. Children love it. Use any pasta on hand. Throw in different sizes and shapes using up what leftover bits of pasta you might have. 1 medium onion, quartered 1 large carrot cut in 2-inch pieces 1 stick celery cut in 2-inch pieces 1 medium zucchini cut in 2-inch pieces

1 large potato, cut in 2-inch pieces 1 medium tomato, quartered 2 cups chicken broth 2 oz or more dry pasta, small or large broken into bits 1-2 T freshly grated Parmesan 1 egg (optional) Salt and freshly ground black pepper Pour broth into a large pot. Add vegetables. (Do not salt, as salt in broth might be sufficient.) Bring to a boil. Simmer gently for 1/2 an hour or till vegetables are very soft. Remove from stove, let cool for a few minutes. With a slotted spoon remove the tomato skin, the onion and the celery. Puree the rest of the contents in a food processor, a blender or use a potato masher. Place on heat and bring back to boil. Add the pasta. Stir very well and cook till pasta has soaked up a good half of the liquid and is nice and soft; 10 to 15 minutes depending on the type of pasta used. The smaller the bits the faster they will cook. Add (optional) egg, stir. Add cheese, beat well. Egg should be cooked. Serve.

CHICK-PEA SOUP
Minestra di cicerchie Puglia Preparation - Medium/Difficult Serves 6 Cicerchie are small dried beans that look like miniature broad beans or fave, but they are said to be an older, more primitive form of chick-peas. They have long been associated with la cucina povera. Until recently, cicerchie had almost disappeared in Italy except in a few pockets of rural Umbria, the Campagna outside Rome, and in Puglia. Like many similar foods, they have been rediscovered and lent a certain costly chicness by restaurant chefs. It's

not likely that you'll find cicerchie in this country, but the soup is just as tasty made with ceci (chick-peas), fagioli (dried beans of any sort), or fave secche (dried broad beans). Like most bean soups in Puglia, this one may also be served over slices of stale country-style bread, lightly toasted and brushed with a little garlic if you wish. 8 oz (1 cup) dried chick-peas or other dried legumes 1 garlic clove 1 medium yellow onion, cut in half 3 or 4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded, or 2 cups drained canned tomatoes 1 stalk celery, including the top green leaves 1 bay leaf 1 small dried hot red chile pepper salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste a little extra virgin olive oil a little finely minced flat-leaf parsley Put the chick-peas in a bowl, cover with cool water, and set aside to soak for 6 to 8 hours or overnight. Then drain and place in a soup kettle with fresh cold water to cover to a depth of one inch. Put the kettle on medium-low heat and when the water commences to boil, lower the heat, cover the kettle, and simmer until the chick-peas are halfcooked-about 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the age of the beans. Add simmering water from time to time, if needed. When you judge the chick-peas to be half-cooked, coarsely chop the garlic, onion halves, tomatoes, and celery and add to the pot, along with the bay leaf, chile pepper, salt, and pepper. Continue cooking, adding boiling water as necessary, until the chick-peas are tender. Remove the bay leaf and chile pepper. Serve immediately, garnished with the olive oil and parsley. Variations: Brown 1 coarsely chopped red onion over medium heat in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add 1 t red wine vinegar and serve. Saute 2 oz diced pancetta (or bacon that has been blanched 2 minutes in boiling water) in 1 t olive oil until crisp. Scatter the bacon over the minestra just before serving.
Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

CHICKPEA AND PASTA SOUP

Pasta coi Ceci Abruzzi - Molise Preparation - Medium Serves 4 - 6 A wonderfully satisfying soup for a cold winter night. A salad and bread complete the meal. Can be prepared a day or two ahead of time and kept in the refrigerator. 1/2 lb chickpeas, soaked overnight or 1-15 oz can chickpeas (garbanzo beans) drained 1 1/2 lbs chicken wings, necks and back, or cut-up whole chicken 2 stalks celery, in 1/2-inch pieces 1 large onion, quartered 2 medium carrots, sliced 2 cloves garlic, halved 3 bay leaves Parsley-fresh, 2 or 3 sprigs Salt 1/4-cup extra virgin olive oil 1/4 peperoncino crushed, more or less to taste 1/2 lb conchigliette (small shells), broken up fettuccine, any small pasta will do Place the chicken in a large heavy saucepan. Cover with cold water to a depth of 2 inches. Bring to a boil. Skim the surface till clear. Add the rest of the ingredients, and simmer for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, till chickpeas are tender. (If using canned chickpeas, cook chicken and vegetables for about 1 hour and then add the chickpeas for 15 minutes.) Use canned chicken broth to save time. The taste will, of course, suffer, but it is still good. Remove chicken pieces and the bay leaves with a slotted spoon. If you like bits of chicken in your soup, remove what chicken meat you can off the bones. Add to the broth. Add the pasta and cook till tender, about 12 minutes. In a bowl, mix 1/4-cup stock with the olive oil and peperoncino.

Serve soup into individual bowls and then pour a small amount of the hot oil mixture over each serving.

EGG AND CHEESE DUMPLING SOUP

Passatelli Emilia-Romagna Preparation - Easy Serves 6 1 1/2 quarts Brodo Classico (or canned beef broth) 3 eggs plus 1 egg yolk 1 3/4 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese 3/4 cup unflavored breadcrumbs 2 T sweet butter, softened 1/4 t freshly grated or ground nutmeg 1/4 t salt 1/8 t freshly ground black pepper Bring the broth to a boil. Meanwhile, mix 3/4 cup of the Parmesan cheese and the rest of the ingredients thoroughly into a paste. Put the paste into a potato ricer, hold it over the bubbling broth and push paste through so that it falls into the broth in the form of 2-inch long pieces the size of large spaghetti. Reduce heat until broth is only simmering and cook for 6 minutes. Serve immediately with a bowl of the remaining 1 cup of Parmesan cheese. Source: Northern Italian Cooking Francesco Ghedini Hawthorn Books, Inc.

EGG AND MARSALA WINE SOUP

Ginestrata Rome-Lazio Preparation - Medium Easy Serves 4 - 6 6 egg yolks 1/2 cup dry Marsala wine 3 cups Brodo di Pollo (home-made or canned chicken broth) 1/4 t cinnamon 4 T sweet butter, softened 1/4 t sugar 1/4 t nutmeg Beat the egg yolks in a large bowl, and, bit by bit, stirring, add the Marsala the chicken broth, and the cinnamon. Place mixture in double boiler. Cook over moderate heat, adding the butter very slowly. When the soup starts to thicken, remove it from heat. Combine the sugar and the nutmeg and sprinkle on surface of soup. Serve in preheated individual bowls. Source: Northern Italian Cooking Francesco Ghedini Hawthorn Books, Inc.

FISH BROTH
Brodo di pesce Puglia Preparation - Medium Makes 6 - 7 cups The carcasses (head and bones) of any white-fleshed fish may be used to make a flavorful fish stock - monkfish, snapper, cod, haddock, weakfish, whatever is

available at your fishmonger's. Do not use oily fish such as bluefish, mackerel, or salmon, however, because the flavor is too strong. head and bones of one 4- to 6-lb fish, preferably haddock, cod, or snapper 2 or 3 bay leaves 1 medium onion, halved 1 t whole black peppercorns about 15 springs flat-leaf parsley 1 cup dry white wine 6 cups water salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste Combine the ingredients in a heavy soup kettle or stockpot and bring slowly to a boil over medium-low heat. Cover, turn the heat down to a bare simmer, and continue cooking for 45 minutes. Strain the broth through a double layer of cheesecloth in a colander and discard the solids. Taste and adjust the seasoning, keeping in mind that the salt will be concentrated if the stock must later be reduced.

Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

SOUP WITH WINTER GREENS AND MEATBALLS

Zuppa con polpettine

Puglia Preparation - Difficult Serves 4 - 6

A rich meat broth is a prerequisite for this soup, which is often served as a first course for the Christmas feast, especially in the Salento, at the bottom of the Pugliese heel. INGREDIENTS:

1 lb very lean ground beef or veal 3 eggs 1 cup fresh bread crumbs 1/4 cup freshly grated pecorino or Parmigiano-Reggiano 1/4 cup minced flat-leaf parsley 1 garlic clove, finely minced salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/2 cup plus 2 T extra virgin olive oil 6 cups meat broth 2 bunches escarole, chard, or other winter greens about 1/4 cup flour 1 lb stale bread

Mixing bowl, large saucepan, frying pan, 2 soup plates. METHOD: 1. In a small bowl, mix together the ground meat, 1 egg, the bread crumbs, grated cheese, parsley, garlic, a pinch of salt, and black pepper. 2. Form into meatballs, about the size of a walnut. 3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a saut pan over medium heat and brown the meatballs a few at a time. 4. Bring the broth slowly to a simmer in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan over mediumlow heat. Wash the escarole in several changes of water, then sliver the leaves and add the slivers to the meat broth to simmer for 7 to 10 minutes or until the greens are tender. 5. Add the meatballs to the stock and continue to simmer until the meatballs are thoroughly cooked, about 10 minutes longer. 6. While the meatballs are simmering, place the flour on a soup plate. 7. In another soup plate, beat the remaining 2 eggs. 8. Remove the crusts from the stale bread and cut it into cubes no larger than 3/4 inch. Roll the cubes in the flour, then in the beaten eggs.

9. In a small saut pan, heat the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil over medium-high heat and fry the bread cubes until they are golden brown on all sides. When they are done, drain on paper towels. 10. To serve, put a few bread cubes and a few little meatballs in each plate, then pour the simmering broth over. 11. If you wish, pass a bowl with more grated cheese to be added at the table. Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP

ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP WITH MEATBALLS AND SPINACH RECIPE

Zuppa maritata
Naples - Campania Preparation - Medium Prep: 25 min - Cook: 1 hour 20 min - Total: 1 hour 45 min Yield: Serves 4 - 6

Our version of a traditional recipe. *See also Italian Wedding Soup II, with meatballs, chicken and endive.

INGREDIENTS: For the meatballs:

1/2 lb ground beef 1/2 lb ground veal, pork or turkey 1/4 cup bread crumbs (commercial, or grate your own from stale Italian bread) 1 egg 1 T parsley, finely chopped 1/2 clove garlic, minced (optional) 1/2 tsp paprika (optional) 1/2 tsp salt and pepper to taste

For the soup:

4 cups chicken broth 2 cups spinach, chopped 1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese OPTIONAL: Orzo - small grains of pasta shaped like barley.

Large soup pot, baking sheet. METHOD: 1. COMBINE the ground meat, bread crumbs, egg, parsley, minced garlic and salt and pepper in mixing bowl. Mix well with a fork and form into tiny meat balls (shown are about the size of a golf ball, but traditional meatballs are a bit smaller) with your hands. 2. PLACE meatballs on a greased baking sheet and bake for about 25 minutes at 350F, until brown. (See ALTERNATE, below) 3. ABOUT ten minutes before serving, bring the chicken broth to a boil, add the spinach and cook until tender. Add the meatballs and return soup to a simmer. Stir in the Pecorino cheese and serve. ALTERNATE: you can saut the meatballs in olive oil until brown and procede with step 3 (above), or bring your chicken stock to a low boil, add the uncooked meatballs, simmer for about 25 minutes, add the spinach, cook until tender, stir in the cheese and serve.

AMAZON BEST SELLER

ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP WITH MEATBALLS, CHICKEN, ENDIVE AND ESCAROLE

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Zuppa maritata II
Molise Preparation - Medium; Prep: 30 - Cook: 2:00 Serves 4 - 6

INGREDIENTS: For the meatballs:

1 lb ground beef, veal or pork, or mixed 1 egg 1/2 cup bread crumbs 1 clove minced garlic, or to taste Salt and pepper, to taste

For the soup:

1 chicken (cleaned: heart, liver, etc. removed), rinsed inside and out with cold water 2 heads of escarole, or 1 endive, 1 escarole 2 medium onions, chopped 1/4 cup celery, chopped (you can use the tops for this) 1/4 cup carrots, chopped 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Large soup pot, baking sheet. METHOD: 1. IN a large, covered pot place chicken, chopped onion, celery and carrot with water to cover. Simmer 45-60 minutes until chicken is cooked. 2. PREPARE the meatballs. Mix ground meat, egg, breadcrumbs, minced garlic and salt and pepper, adding a little water to moisten, if necessary. Shape into small balls. Bake in a 350F oven for 25 minutes or until browned. 3. BOIL endive and escarole until tender. Drain the greens and set aside.

4. REMOVE chicken and allow to cool. Bone the chicken and return chicken meat to the pot. Add meatballs and greens to the soup and heat. Serve with the grated Parmesan cheese. AMAZON BEST SELLER

SIMPLE LEAK AND POTATO SOUP RECIPE - WITH VARIATIONS

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Parmentier
France Preparation - Easy; Prep: :20 - Cook: 30 Serves 4 Vegetarian

Simple basic soup recipe with variations. INGREDIENTS (and see variations below):

3 cups sliced leeks (white and tender green parts) 3 cups peeled and roughly chopped "baking" potatoes 6 cups water 1-1/2 tsp salt 1/2 cup sour cream, creme fraiche or half and half, optional

Large, heavy, covered stew pot or casserole.

1. PREPARE Leeks: Trim off the root ends, keeping the leaves attached. Cut off tops so the leeks are 6 to 7 inches long. Starting 1/2 inch from the root and keeping leaves attached, slit each leek lengthwise in half and then in quarters. Wash under cold running water, spreading the leaves apart to rinse off all dirt. Leeks can be braised whole or sliced crosswise into pieces for soup. (To julienne, cut leeks crosswise into 2-inch pieces, press leaves flat, and slice lengthwise into matchsticks).

2. BRING ingredients to the boil in a 3-quart saucepan. Cover partially and simmer 20 to 30 minutes, until vegetables are tender. Correct seasoning. 3. SERVE as is, or puree, and/or top each portion with a 1 or 2 TBSP of cream. VARIATIONS: ONION AND POTATO SOUP: Substitute onions for leeks, or use a combination. CREAM OF LEEK AND POTATO SOUP: After simmering the preceding soup, puree it and whisk in 1/2 cup heavy cream. Reheat to the simmer again before serving. WATERCRESS SOUP: Add a bunch of washed watercress leaves and stems to the base soup for the last 5 minutes of cooking. Puree. Garnish with a scattering of fresh watercress leaves. You can throw in any vegetables you might have on hand, suitably diced, for variety.

LENTIL AND ESCAROLE

Minestra di lentiche con verdura

Puglia Preparation - Easy; Prep: 20 - Cook: 50 Serves 4 as a main course Vegetarian

INGREDIENTS:

3 T olive oil

1 large onion, chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped 2 medium carrots, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 3 large tomatoes, chopped 2 bay leaves, torn in half 1 head escarole lettuce (about 1 lb), washed and cut into 1 inch strips. 1/2 lb lentils (if using Italian lentils, soak overnight as they do not cook as rapidly as lentils found here in supermarkets.) Pecorino or Parmesan cheese as shavings (not grated - see photograph) 6 cups water Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Large saucepan. METHOD: 1. IN a large saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. 2. ADD onions, carrots and celery. 3. SAUT, stirring frequently for about 10 minutes or till soft, do not allow vegetables brown. 4. ADD 5 cups of water to start. 5. ADD the lentils and the bay leaf. 6. COOK for 20 minutes. 7. ADD 2/3 of tomatoes. 8. ADD more water if necessary. 9. COOK for another 10 minutes. 10. WHEN lentils done to taste, add the escarole. 11. COOK till escarole turns limp, 3- 4 minutes. 12. LADLE soup into bowls. 13. SPRINKLE surface with remainder of the freshly chopped tomatoes and slivers of Pecorino or Parmesan cheese.

SERVE. AMAZON BEST SELLER

RED OR ORANGE LENTIL SOUP RECIPE

Zuppa con lentiche

Preparation - Easy; Prep: 20 - Cook: 40 Serves 4

A simple, delicious soup for any season. INGREDIENTS:

2 cups Red (orange) lentils or dahl 7 cups water 2 medium onions, chopped 3 TBSP olive oil 2 TBSP or more ground cumin 1 bay leaf broken in 2 or 3 pieces Salt 1/3 cup lemon juice or to taste cilantro (optional) chopped

Large, heavy saucepan. METHOD: 1. Peel and chop onion. 2. In a large saucepan heat olive oil. 3. Add onions and saut till transparent. About 5 minutes. 4. Rinse off lentils and quickly place in large saucepan with water (otherwise lentils tend to clump). 5. Bring to a boil, reduce heat till you have a gentle simmer. 6. Add the cumin and the bay leaf. 7. Simmer for approximately 20 minutes stirring occasionally. 8. You might need to add water to keep mixture "soupy". 9. Taste, and cook till lentils are tender. 10. Add lemon juice and salt. 11. Simmer a few minutes more. 12. Serve. AMAZON BEST SELLER

LENTIL SOUP WITH PASTA RECIPE

Zuppa de lentiche con pasta

Preparation - Easy Serves 4 - 6

INGREDIENTS:

1/2 lb dry lentils (better fresh, and 'green'), rinsed in cold water 3 TBSP olive oil 1 carrot, diced 1 medium onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, chopped 3 TBSP tomato sauce 1/2 cup pasta, ditalini or other small pasta Lemon juice, to taste Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Large, heavy saucepan. METHOD: 1. Heat olive oil in a saucepan. 2. Add onion, carrot and garlic and saut over medium heat until transparent and soft. 3. Add lentils and water to cover to a depth of about an inch. 4. Simmer gently for about 1/2 hour till lentils are nearly cooked through -(more or less depending on type, size and age of lentils).

5. Add tomato sauce and pasta and a little more water if need be, stirring occasionally. 6. Simmer till pasta is cooked through. 7. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice. 8. Serve hot.

MEAT BROTH
Brodo di carne
Puglia Preparation - Medium Makes about 10 cups

About 6 pounds meaty beef bones - ribs and shanks are good; a knuckle bone will add richness and body. INGREDIENTS:

2 yellow onions, unpeeled and halved 2 garlic cloves, if desired, crushed 2 medium to large carrots, halved 1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves 3 bay leaves 1 small dried hot red chile pepper, if desired salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup dry red wine 10 cups water

Stockpot, cheesecloth or similar for straining broth. METHOD: 1. Combine the ingredients in a heavy soup kettle or stockpot and set over medium heat. Bring slowly to a boil, then cover the pan, turn the heat down to a gentle simmer, and cook very slowly, patiently skimming off the scum that rises to the top, for at least 2 1/2 hours.

2. Strain the stock through a double layer of cheesecloth, discarding the solids. Taste the stock and adjust the seasoning, keeping in mind that the salt will be concentrated if the stock must be later reduced. 3. Place the stock in the refrigerator to let the fat rise to the top and solidify, after which it can be easily removed with a slotted spoon Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

VEGETABLE SOUP, MILAN STYLE

> MAIN > SOUP Minestrone Milanese
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Medium difficulty Prep: 30 (plus soaking beans, if necessary) - Cook: 2:00 Serves 8 Vegetarian with vegetable broth

A rustic country soup that should be served hot in winter and cool in summer. Takes time to prepare, but the results are worth it - recruit somebody to help you prepare the vegetables. Serve with fresh Italian bread, no butter. It makes a pleasant summer or autumn soup, using almost any fresh vegetables in season. INGREDIENTS:

1 pound fresh borlotti or cranberry beans, shelled to yield 8 oz; (see note below), or 1 15 1/2 oz canned beans 4 cups chicken broth 8 oz tomatoes, peeled and seeded 8 oz cabbage, shredded 8 oz carrots, scraped, cubed 1 large potato, peeled and diced 8 oz string beans, cut in pieces, or fresh green peas 1 T chopped fresh parsley coarse salt to taste 3 T extra virgin olive oil, plus some in addition for serving 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped 1 clove garlic, chopped 1 rib celery, trimmed, coarsely chopped 8 ounces small zucchini, scrubbed, cut in half, and sliced thin 1 large ripe tomato, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped 4 oz rice, Arborio if possible chopped fresh basil to taste freshly grated Parmesan cheese to taste freshly ground pepper to taste

2 saucepans (rice and soup cooked separate), 1 skillet. METHOD: 1. Bring broth to a boil in a soup kettle. 2. If using fresh beans, add the beans and cook for 30 minutes. If using canned, add with rest of fresh ingredients. 3. Puree the 8 ounces tomatoes in a blender. 4. Add to the beans, along with cabbage, carrots, potato, string beans or peas, and parsley; add salt to taste. 5. Cook for 30 minutes. 6. Heat the 3 tablespoons oil in a saucepan and cook the onion and garlic on low heat until golden. 7. To same pan, add the celery, zucchini, and chopped tomato and cook for 15 minutes. 8. Add to the bean mixture and simmer for 30 minutes. 9. In a separate pan, cook the rice until al dente, about 18 minutes, then drain.

10. Pour 2 cups cold water over to stop the cooking process, then drain again. 11. Drain once more on a tea towel. 12. To serve hot, bring soup to a boil, add the rice and serve at once. 13. To serve tepid, add rice to the cooled soup and mix. Serve in individual bowls (terra cotta if possible) with chopped basil. 14. Pass freshly grated Parmesan, olive oil, and a pepper mill. NOTE: Five ounces dried white beans may be substituted for the borlotti. Soak overnight and cook until tender. Add to broth with vegetables. Source: Italian Cooking in the Grand Tradition Jo Bettoja and Anna Maria Cornetto The Dial Press

SUMMER MINESTRONE
Zuppa di verdura stufata
Puglia Preparation - Medium/difficult; Prep: 2 hours (allow eggplant to lose some water - Cook: 1 hr. Serves 6 - 8

Stufata means a cooking technique similar to a braise, in which the ingredients are cooked in little or no water; the juices from the vegetables themselves serve to give the soup its requisite "soupiness." This makes a very thick soup that should be served immediately, otherwise the vegetables absorb the small amount of liquid and it becomes more like a ciambotta, still delicious but no longer really a soup. INGREDIENTS:

1 lb eggplant (1 or 2 small eggplants) sea salt 1 large or 2 medium potatoes 1 medium carrot 2 medium red or yellow bell peppers 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus a little more for garnish 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped in 1-inch lengths

1/2 lb (1 bunch) fresh green or red chard, thinly sliced 1/2 lb green beans, sliced in 1-inch lengths 5 to 6 ripe red tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 medium zucchini, cubed 1/2 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley 3 or 4 sprigs fresh oregano 1 bay leaf 1 sprig fresh rosemary 1 small dried hot red chile pepper, if desired

Collander, heavy saucpan with cover.

1. Cut the eggplant in 1-inch cubes. Place the cubes in a colander, sprinkling them liberally with salt. Weight the eggplant with a can set on a small plate and set the colander in the sink to drain for at least 1 hour. Then rinse the cubes thoroughly and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Cut the potatoes and carrot into cubes the same size as the eggplant. 3. Cut the peppers in half lengthwise, discard the seeds and inner white membranes, and slice thinly. 4. Add the oil to a big heavy saucepan or rondeau large enough to hold all the vegetables and place over medium-high heat. 5. Quickly saut the eggplant and potato cubes for about 5 minutes, or until they just start to brown along the edges. 6. Stir in the onion and celery, lower the heat to medium-low, and continue cooking and stirring until the onion softens and starts to turn golden. 7. Add the carrot, chard, green beans, and peppers and stir to combine everything well. 8. Add 1/2 cup hot water to the vegetables in the pan, cover, and cook together for about 5 minutes, then stir in the chopped tomatoes, zucchini, and the aromatics, together with the hot pepper if desired. 9. Add a pinch of salt, cover tightly, and cook for 30 minutes, adding a very little water from time to time if necessary. 10. Remove oregano sprigs, bay leaf and rosemary sprig before serving. 11. Garnish each serving with a thin drizzle of olive oil.

Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

VEGETABLE SOUP WITH RICE

Minestrone di riso
Lombardy Preparation - 2 1/2 hrs (beans soak overnight) Serves 6 - 8

In Lombardy a thick minestrone with rice is most often eaten in summer, served cold. The rice is only minimally cooked, as it continues to cook when poured into the soup bowls. If the soup is to be served hot, the rice is cooked for 16 - 25 minutes and the minestrone is then served immediately. INGREDIENTS:

1 cup (6oz/185g) dried borlotti (red) beans 2oz (60g) pancetta or rindless bacon, finely chopped 1 medium-size onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons (1 1/2oz/40g) butter 2 celery stalks, diced 2 medium-size carrots, diced 2 zucchini (courgettes), diced 2 medium-size boiling potatoes, diced salt and freshly ground pepper 4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 tablespoon tomato paste (puree) 8 cups (2qt/21) meat broth (stock) 1 cup green beans, cut into short lengths 1/2 cup Arborio (short grain) rice 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 6 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Large, heavy pot with cover. METHOD:

1. SOAK borlotti beans overnight in cold water to cover; drain. Combine bacon, onion and butter in a large saucepan and cook over medium heat until golden, stirring frequently. 2. ADD the celery, carrots, zucchini, red beans and potatoes, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, broth and green beans and bring to boil. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 2 hours. 3. ADD rice and cook uncovered over high heat for 5 - 25 minutes. 4. Pour soup into bowls and stir 1 tablespoon Parmesan into each. Cool completely before serving. Adapted from: Italy the Beautiful Cookbook Lorenza De'Medici Collins Publishers

SILVANA'S TUSCAN COUNTRY STYLE MINESTRONE

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Minestrone di verdura
Tuscany Preparation - Easy (takes a few hours of cooking, though) Serves 4 - 6

Recipe adapted from Elizabeth Romers delightful "A Tuscan Year" a treat to read and to cook from. INGREDIENTS:

1 large onion 2 large carrots 2 ribs of celery including their leaves 2 TBSP of extra virgin olive oil (you can optionally add a few additional TBSP of olive oil to each bowl when serving) 10 oz (300 g) of cooked white cannellini beans 9 oz (250g) Italian canned peeled tomatoes) or the equivalent weight of peeled and chopped fresh tomatoes 4 leaves of the dark Tuscan cabbage (four outer leaves of a green cabbage) 2 large peeled potatoes stock (beef or chicken broth) as needed a small bunch of parsley salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Large saucepan, optionally with cover. METHOD: 1. Make the trittata by chopping the onion, carrots and celery (the odori) into small dice. 2. In a large saucepan heat up 2 T olive oil and in it cook these chopped odori until they have softened. 3. Next add the white beans, mixing them into the trittata, then in go the tomatoes which you break up as you stir them. At this point you may add a little stock if necessary. 4. Next to go into the pot are the diced potatoes and the roughly torn cabbage leaves. 5. Add a ladleful or two of stock and the parsley sprigs, which can be discarded after they have given up their flavour. Season the soup with salt and pepper and allow the minestrone to simmer over a gentle flame until the vegetables are tender. Characteristically minestrone is laden with vegetables; there should only be enough liquid to keep them moving easily in the pot - you can cover or add liquid or reduce to reach desired consistency.

When it is time for supper Silvana ladles the soup into deep soup bowls and into each bowl pours a little of her best olive oil. This enriches the soup and the hot liquid releases the fruity perfume of the oil, thus enhancing the flavour of the vegetables. Adapted From:

MUSSEL SOUP WITH GARLIC TOAST

Cozze con bruschetta in tegame
Tuscany Preparation - Medium; Prep: 15 - Cook: 25 Serves 4 - 6

You can use mussels, small clams or both in this deliciously satisfying soup, served in individual bowls. One more way to use up leftover bread. Serve it with a green salad and some extra toasted bread and there you have it. INGREDIENTS:

4 lbs clams or mussels 4 cloves garlic, halved 6 T extra virgin olive oil

4 T tomato paste (optional) 1/2 cup dry white wine 1/2 t crushed oregano, or 1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped salt and pepper 2 slices Italian style country bread per person, 1 inch thick, toasted

Large, heavy pot with cover, skillet, bowl. METHOD: 1. Clean shellfish, discard any broken or open ones. 2. Place water to a depth of 1/2 an inch in a heavy pan. 3. Bring to a boil. 4. Drop mussels in and cover, steaming them open over very high heat. 5. Remove from pan, discarding any that are still closed. Place in a warm bowl. 6. Reserve the liquid and strain through cheesecloth to catch any sand that might have been released by mussels. 7. Toast the bread. 8. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and lightly brown the garlic. 9. Add the tomato paste stirring with a wooden spoon and sprinkle on the oregano. 10. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes. 11. Add the wine, the liquid released from the mussels as well as a few grinds of the pepper mill. Simmer gently for 10 minutes stirring occasionally. 12. Add the mussels and heat through. 13. Brush the bread with a clove of garlic and place in individual bowls. 14. Ladle the soup over the bread. 15. Sprinkle with parsley if you wish.

NOTE: Can be prepared without the tomato: Brown garlic and add liquids then the mussels.

PASTA, VEGETABLE AND CHICKEN BROTH RECIPE "The Little Soup"

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La minestrina
Preparation - Medium; Prep: 20 - Cook: 30 Serves 2

This soup is wonderful when nursing a cold and children, even tots love it. Throw in any pasta you have, different sizes and shapes are fine too. A solution to leftover pastas. INGREDIENTS:

1 onion, quartered 1 carrot, cut in large pieces 1 stick celery, cut in large pieces 1 zucchini cut in large pieces 1 medium sized potato, diced in large pieces. 1 tomato, quartered 1 1/2 cups chicken broth (canned is good, home-made is better) 2 oz or more, to taste, of pasta. Break the large sort into small pieces. 1 or 2 T grated fresh Parmesan cheese

Saucepan, blender or masher, slotted spoon. METHOD: 1. Place all the vegetables in a pot with the broth and salt to taste.

2. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer for about 1/2 an hour till vegetables are quite soft and limp. 3. Remove from stove. Let cool for a few minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove tomato skin, onion and celery. 4. Puree the rest of the contents in a food processor, a blender, or with a potato masher. Return to pot and bring back to a boil. 5. Add the pasta. Stir, lower heat and cook till pasta has soaked up most of the liquid and is very soft, about 10 to 15 minutes depending on amount and size of pasta. 6. Pour soup into a bowl and mix in the cheese. 7. For a richer soup use an egg beaten in with the cheese, and stir it slowly into the piping hot soup.

SOUP PAVESE STYLE WITH EGGS AND BREAD RECIPE

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Zuppa Pavese
Lombardy Preparation - Medium Serves 6

According to tradition this dish was born in 1525, on the day King Francis I of France was defeated by Emperor Charles V of the Holy Roman Empire. The king pronounced the historical phrase "Everything is lost but honor." But there was at least one other thing he hadn't lost-his appetite. He stormed the Pavese countryside, famished, in search of something to eat. Finally he arrived at a farm where a peasant woman was brewing a soup. The king told her who he was and that he was very hungry. The woman placed a piece of old bread in a bowl, covered it with broth and then, thinking that this food was not noble enough for a king, even a defeated one, she went to the henhouse, picked up two eggs

and broke them into his soup bowl. Naturally the recipe has grown a bit more sophisticated since then. "Francesco Ghedini - Northern Italian Cooking". INGREDIENTS:

6 TBSP unsalted butter 2 TBSP olive oil 6 slices Italian style bread, 1 inch slices, fried 6 cups chicken or beef broth 6 eggs Salt and freshly ground white pepper 1 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Saucepan, frying pan. METHOD: 1. Heat the butter and olive oil in a skillet and saut the bread browning on both sides. Remove and place on paper towels. 2. Meanwhile bring the broth to a simmer and keep it there. 3. Heat individual soup plates or bowls in an oven. 4. Place a slice of bread in each bowl or plate. 5. Break an egg onto the bread, being careful not to break the yolk. 6. Sprinkle with Parmesan, salt and pepper to taste. 7. Once all eggs are placed on the toast carefully ladle the very hot broth onto the eggs in the bowls. 8. The heat of the broth should cook the eggs. 9. If the eggs are not cooked to your taste, place in a hot oven for a minute or two. 10. Serve with extra Parmesan at table. Note: If you can, try making this soup with a home-made chicken or meat broth. FROM: Northern Italian Cooking Francesco Ghedini

PEA SOUP WITH CROUTONS

> MAIN > SOUP Cecamariti - Muersi
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Puglia Preparation - Difficult; Soaking peas. Prep: 20 - Cook: 2:00 + Serves 6 - 8

Cecamariti is what this was called at the Ristorante Bruna, just 10 minutes outside Lecce in the town of San Donato, and Claudia Bacile told me that it means a dish thrown together with whatever's at hand to placate a hungry husband. At the Ristorante Acaya, on the other hand, in a village of the same name on the other side of Lecce, the exact same dish was called muersi, meaning little morselsthough whether it was morsels of peas or of fried bread wasn't clear. Whatever it's called, this is a real peasant dish, the kind that can be easily transported out to the fields, or that will fill the farmer up in the morning before he leaves the house so he can pass the rest of the day with just a little piece of bread and cheese to keep him going. A pure dish of the Salento, the southeasternmost tip of Puglia, it's proof positive of the goodness of simple ingredients when they're combined as intelligently as they are here. Leftover cooked greens, such as dandelion greens or broccoli rabe, are often stirred in at the last minute before serving, along with the fried bread. INGREDIENTS;

1 lb whole dried peas, soaked overnight* 1 yellow onion, diced 4 or 5 small very ripe tomatoes, peeled and diced, or 1 cup drained canned tomatoes, chopped 1 stalk celery, diced 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped, to make 1/2 to 3/4 cup 1 small dried hot red chile pepper, coarsely chopped sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 4 or 5 slices country-style bread 1/2 cup plus a little more extra virgin olive oil

Heavy pot with lid, frying pan. METHOD:

1. Drain the peas and put in a heavy pan. 2. Add fresh water to cover to a depth of 1 inch about 4 cups of water. (Cooks in the Salento use a handsome terra-cotta pignatta for this, but any heavy, lidded pot will do.) Set the pot over medium-low heat and when the liquid begins to simmer, lower the heat and cover the pan. 3. After about 1 hour of simmering (half an hour for split peas - see below), stir in the diced vegetables, parsley, and chile pepper. 4. Cook 5 minutes, then taste and add salt and pepper as desired. 5. Cover the pan again and continue simmering another hour or longer, until the peas are very tender and have started to dissolve into a mush - time depends on the age and the size of the peas, and split peas will take a good deal less than whole ones. Add a very little boiling water from time to time if the peas become too thick. 6. When the peas are thoroughly cooked, puree the contents of the pan, using a food mill or an immersion mixer. You should have a thick puree that is fairly smooth but with some discernible bits of peas and vegetables in it. Return the puree to the rinsed-out pan and keep hot while you prepare the bread. 7. Cut the bread slices into large croutons about 1 inch square, discarding the crusts. 8. In a frying pan over medium heat, heat 1/2 cup of the olive oil until it is just below smoking.Add the bread pieces and fry until crisp and golden brown on all sides.Remove and drain on a rack covered with paper towels. 9. Transfer the peas to a heated serving dish, stir in the bread cubes, and serve immediately, drizzled with the olive oil left in the pan after sauting the bread pieces - or add fresh olive oil if desired. *NOTE: Whole dried green peas are used in the the Salento, but they're not always easy to find here. I've made the soup very successfully with split peas instead, though the cooking time for the peas may be reduced by half. Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

TRADITIONAL PEA SOUP

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Prep: 15 min; Cook: 2:30 - Easy Serves 4 - 6

This delicious split pea soup takes a bit of time to prepare, but if you crave a satisfying soup, this is perfect. You can add cooked hot dogs or sausage cut in bitesize pieces at the end. INGREDIENTS:

2 TBSP good olive oil 2 TBSP butter 3 slices bacon, or 1 ounce pancetta, chopped 1 medium white onion, diced 2 carrots, diced 2 stalks celery, diced (you can include the leaves) 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1/2 dried hot pepper, or 1/2 tsp hot pepper flakes 2 cups split peas 1 bay leaf salt to taste

Large, covered pot. METHOD: 1. WASH and drain the split peas and set aside. 2. IN a large, covered pot, heat the olive oil, butter and bacon/pancetta. Saute until bacon slightly transparent.

3. ADD the carrots, onion, celery, garlic and hot pepper and a pinch (1/4 tsp) of salt. Saute gently on low-medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is transparent (10-15 minutes). Do not brown or burn. 4. ADD the peas and bay leaf. If you have a ham hock or turkey carcass you can add it here. 5. ADD enough fresh, cold water to cover the peas. 6. BRING to a low simmer. 7. COVER the pot. The peas will absorb the water, so check every 15 minutes or so to make sure that water covers the peas, add water as necessary. Taste for doneness (about 2 hours). 8. TIP: take one or more cups of the soup and process in blender for a thicker, more homogenized soup. 9. TASTE for seasoning, add salt and fresh ground black pepper if you like it. Add cooked sausage chunks here, or serve in separate plate. 10. SERVE with good bread or croutons.

PORK NOODLE SOUP RECIPE

Prep:20, Cook:1:30 Preparation - medium Serves 6

You can add all sorts of favorite vegetables to this soup - it is rich and flavorful as well as a variety of Asian noodles. Good stir-fry practice! INGREDIENTS:

1 1/2 ounces medium-size dried shiitake mushrooms 1 cup cold water 6 cups low-salt chicken broth

peeled and minced fresh ginger to taste (we use about 3 TBSP - 1 1/2 inches of thick root 1 pound fresh noodles - soba, thin wheat noodles, rice vermicelli, or udon depending on your taste 3 tablespoons peanut oil or vegetable oil, divided 12 ounces pork butt, trimmed, cut into thin 2-inch-long strips 1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry Sherry 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 (6 1/2-ounce) can preserved (or make your own) snow cabbage, well drained 1 cup drained canned bamboo shoot strips (most of one 8-ounce can) OPTIONAL: You can also add: 1/2 chopped bok choi cabbage, 1 cup bean sprouts, water chestnuts...

Large skillet, wok or non-stick wok, saucepan for broth. METHOD: 1. PLACE shiitake mushrooms in medium bowl. Add cold water to cover; let soak until soft, about 1 hour. Drain, reserving soaking liquid. Squeeze mushrooms dry. If not pre-sliced, cut off stems; discard. Thinly slice caps. 2. THINLY slice the pork across the grain, then in bite-sized strips. 3. COMBINE broth, ginger, and reserved mushroom liquid in large saucepan; bring to boil. Cover and reduce heat to low. 4. BOIL noodles in salted water until tender but still firm to bite, about 3 minutes. Drain; divide among 6 bowls. 5. HEAT 14-inch-diameter flat-bottomed wok (we have a seasoned, steel wok which yields wonderful results along with lots of smoke) or heavy 12-inchdiameter skillet over high heat until drop of water evaporates on contact. Add 2 tablespoons oil, then pork, spreading evenly. Cook without stirring 20 seconds; then stir-fry pork until no longer pink, about 2 minutes. Stir in rice wine and soy sauce. Transfer to plate. 6. ADD remaining 1 tablespoon oil to same wok (do not clean) over high heat. Add mushrooms; stir-fry 1 minute. Add snow cabbage, bamboo shoot strips, and sugar; stir-fry 30 seconds. Stir in pork and any accumulated juices. Stir-fry 1 minute. Top noodles with pork mixture. Divide hot broth among bowls.

RICE AND PEA SOUP RECIPE

Risi e bisi
Venice - Veneto Preparation - Medium Serves 6

On April 25, the day of Saint Mark the Evangelist, patron saint of the Venetian Republic, this soup was offered with much pomp to the doge, because the peas represented the arrival of spring and the rice the bonanza offered by the return of warm weather. INGREDIENTS:

6 TBSP sweet butter (unsalted) 5 oz lean prosciutto, chopped 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped 1 TBSP chopped fresh parsley 1 1/2 cups uncooked long grain rice 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 cups shelled, fresh small green peas 6 1/2 cups hot meat or chicken broth 1 1/2 tsp salt 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Heavy saucepan with cover. METHOD: 1. Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a heavy saucepan. 2. Add the chopped prosciutto, onion, and parsley, and cook for 5 minutes, over very low heat, stirring constantly. 3. Add the rice and cook until opaque. 4. Add the wine and cook, over low heat, stirring for about 2 minutes. 5. Add the peas, 2 cups broth, salt, and black pepper. (You can use low-sodium canned broth)

6. Cover, bring to a boil, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally with a fork, until the broth is absorbed. 7. Add 1 more cup of broth. 8. When this is absorbed, add the remaining broth and cook until the rice and peas are tender. 9. The entire process of cooking, after the rice and peas are added, should take approximately 18 to 20 minutes. 10. Stir in the Parmesan cheese, the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and serve immediately. Our note: You may substitute small frozen green peas and canned broth. Obviously, it is tastier with the original ingredients. FROM: Northern Italian Cooking Francesco Ghedini

SWISS CHARD AND CHICKPEA SOUP RECIPE

Preparation - Easy; Prep: 10 - Cook: 25 Serves 2 - 4

Simple, fresh, nourishing soup. INGREDIENTS:

1 15 oz can chickpeas 1 bunch (4 cups) washed, coarsely cut Swiss chard 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1/4 t nutmeg 2 T lemon juice Peperoncino, small piece (optional)

Saucepan large enough for all ingredients. METHOD: 1. Place washed and chopped Swiss chard in pot along with chicken broth. Bring to a boil and simmer till nearly soft, about 10 minutes. 2. Add chickpeas, nutmeg and peperoncino adding more liquid if needed or to taste. 3. Simmer for 10 minutes. 4. Stir in lemon juice, check for seasoning. 5. Serve with toasted Italian-style bread

TOMATO SOUP WITH PASTA RECIPE

Calabria Preparation - Easy; Prep: 15 - Cook: 45 Serves 4 - 5

Delicious, especially with fresh, ripe tomatoes. INGREDIENTS:

1/3 cup olive oil 2 garlic cloves, bruised 5 ripe tomatoes, skinned and coarsely chopped, or 1 14/15 oz tin plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 2 tbsp chopped parsley salt and freshly ground black pepper 5 oz ditalini or other small tubular pasta freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Saucepan. METHOD: 1. HEAT the oil in a saucepan, preferably earthenware, and gently saut the garlic until golden. Remove and discard the garlic.

2. ADD the tomatoes, onion and half the chopped parsley. Saut gently for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. 3. ADD 7 cups of water, salt and plenty of ground pepper. Bring to a boil and cook, uncovered, over very low heat for about 20 minutes. 4. RAISE the heat and drop in the pasta. Cook until al dente and then add the remaining parsley before serving. PASS Parmesan at the table.

TORTILLA SOUP RECIPE

Sopa de Tortilla
Mexico Preparation - Medium; Prep: 20 - Cook: 40 Serves 4

This very popular soup has as many variations as there are cooks. All seem to have some 'corn' taste, some 'smoky' taste, onion, cheese and of course, some kind of hot pepper. Use the variations depending on the ingredients at hand, and your taste.

INGREDIENTS:

8 dried corn tortillas, or tortilla chips, about 2 cups, coarsley crumbled. See variation below. 1 tablespoon of oil or butter 1 medium onion, chopped fine 6 cloves garlic, minced 1 ear of fresh corn, cleaned (optional but good if you have to use plain flour tortillas), OR 1 cup drained canned corn. 1/2 chipotle chili pepper, packed in adobo sauce, chopped (see variation below) more to taste - OR 1/2 tsp (more to taste, hot, so be careful) chipotle paste 2 medium tomatoes/ small tin canned tomatoes 3 tablespoons of tomato paste 4 cups chicken, meat or vegetable broth 1 cup of grated cheddar or jack cheese 1/2 cup cilantro (leaf coriander), chopped 1 avocado in 1/2 inch cubes or thin slices (optional) salt and freshly ground pepper to taste sour cream (optional)

Large saucepan. OPT: charcoal grill, blender. METHOD: 1. IF possible, prepare at least one of the vegetable ingredients by grilling on charcoal or toasting on low heat in a frying pan on the top of the stove. Cook slowly so that the vegetable is soft and the skin is gently browned/blackened in places. This could include the tomatoes, the corn, and/or if you don't have chipotle chillies packed in adobo sauce, jalapeno or other peppers. This will impart a vital 'smokey' taste to the soup. 2. IF you don't have tortilla chips, you can cut dried (leave them out) corn or flour tortillas in strips and fry them in oil until lightly browned. 3. IN a large saucepan gently saut the onions on low heat for a minute or two, add the minced garlic and allow to cook slowly on low heat for about ten minutes, until transparent but not browned. 4. ADD the tomatoes/tomato paste (you can use all tomato paste - 6 tablespoons, or mix with grilled fresh or canned tomatoes, about a cup, or use all fresh or canned tomatoes, about 2 cups. 5. ADD the chili pepper. These can be hot, so taste before adding. You can always add heat, but it is hard to get rid of once in the soup. Mix well with the

onions and continue cooking on low heat, stirring until well blended. VARIATION: Grill jalapeno or other chili pepper on charcoal, under a broiler or in a pan until soft and flecked with black. 6. ADD corn (drained if from can). 7. ADD the broth, stir and allow to reduce slightly, about ten minutes. Taste and add salt if needed. (prepared ingredients like tomato paste, packed chipotle chilis and broth may be salty). 8. DURING this time, if you like a thicker soup, you can measure a few cups of the soup into a blender and liquify the solid ingredients. BE CAREFUL - the soup is hot and if the top of the blender is not firmly on and held in place, you can have hot soup all over the kitchen. Taste for seasoning, add salt and pepper if necessary. 9. WHEN ready to serve, measure some partially crumbled tortilla chips, grated cheese, cilantro and optional avocado into the soup bowls. Add the soup and garnish with additional cilantro. 10. SERVE with side plates of extra dried tortilla chips, grated cheese and sour cream.

BEAN SOUP FROM TUSCANY

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15

La ribollita
Preparation - Needs time (beans soak 8 hours, long stove time) Serves 4 - 6

Ribollita means 're-cooked' in Italy, and slow cooking is the secret of this hearty winter vegetable soup designed for wood stoves or back burners. There are many different recipes, but most Tuscan recipes call for cavolo nero - black leaf kale - the closest substitute being savoy (green, crinkled, loose-leafed) cabbage - and cannelini tuscan white beans - the closest substitute being Great Northern beans. I have used green cabbage and Brussels sprouts with success. Most recipes call for the leek, onion, carrot, celery and tomato. You can use any other vegetables you might have at hand. You can also add more vegetables and water on succeeding days, cook for about an hour, and serve a new version. Good quality olive oil is also important. INGREDIENTS:

1 cup (dried) cannellini or Great Northern beans 1 head of cavolo nero (black-leaf kale) (or 1/4 head green cabbage, 6 or more Brussels sprouts, etc.) shredded (sliced very thinly) 1/4 head of Savoy cabbage - shredded 1 bunch of Swiss chard - shredded 1 leek - chopped fine 1 onion - chopped fine 1 large carrot - chopped fine 1 large celery stalk including leaves - chopped fine 2 peeled plum tomatoes, ripe or canned - diced 2 cloves garlic, chopped fine (optional) 1/2 dried hot chili pepper -pepperoncino- (optional) 2 potatoes (optional) - diced 2 zucchini (optional) - diced 2 - 3 TBSP extra virgin olive oil (use more if you like) 1/2 tsp dried rosemary, or leaves from one fresh sprig, chopped fine (optional) 1/2 tsp dried or fresh oregano (optional) salt and pepper Italian or French bread one or two days old (optional variation) Water - enough to cover and add - remember that the taste of the water can also affect the way your 'ribollito' will taste.

Large, covered oven-proof casserole or pot. METHOD: SOAK the beans in plenty of water for 8 hours or over night. Drain and rinse. 1. IN A large casserole or cast iron or cast aluminum pot, with a cover and a thick bottom (one variation calls for putting the soup in the oven for 1/2 hour, so consider this when choosing your cooking vessel), heat the olive on a bit more than medium heat - you want to sautee the ingredients slowly until the onion is transparent or lightly golden NOT browned - add the chopped onion, carrot, celery, leek, optional garlic and chili pepper, stirring often until the onion has turned color (about ten minutes, depending on the heat) 2. ADD the tomatoes, cabbage and the beans, more olive oil if you wish, and stir well to mix the ingredients. 3. ADD the optional rosemary/oregano, a pinch of salt and ground black pepper to taste and mix again. 4. ADD enough water to cover the ingredients by about 1/4 inch. 5. BRING to a very slow simmer and cook, covered, for about 1 1/2 hours or until the beans start to soften. 6. ADD water as necessary to keep the ingredients just covered. (for a 'soupier' soup, keep the water level a bit higher). 7. ADD the optional diced potatoes/zucchini (you can also do this on the following day if there is soup left over, to give it a new taste) - cook for another hour, until potatoes are cooked. Longer cooking softens the ingredients and blends them more. 8. THE soup can stand for a few hours in a cool kitchen and be re-heated for the meal. The longer it lingers, the better it gets, and some recipes call for refrigerating the soup, covered, over night and serving it re-heated the next day. VARIATION: Lightly toast the French or Italian bread and put a slice at the bottom of each soup bowl before ladling in the soup. VARIATION: A Tablespoon of good olive oil on top of each serving.

VARIATION: Prepare a 'soffrito' - saut some onion, carrot, celery a minced clove of garlic in olive oil in a separate pan and stir in to the soup at about a half hour before serving. After adding the 'soffrito' some recipes call for thinly slicing a red onion on top of the soup, then putting the cooking vessel, uncovered, in the oven at 350 degrees F. for about a half hour before serving. VARIATION: Spoon out up to half the soup and puree it by running through a 'mouli' or food mill, a food processor (a few bursts) or forcing it through a coarse sieve with the back of a wooden spoon; return the puree to the soup - makes for a much thicker version. CHEESE is not served with this soup in Tuscany, but suit yourself.

VEGETABLE BROTH - VEGETARIAN RECIPE

> MAIN > SOUP Brodo di verdura per i vegeriani
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Puglia Preparation - Medium/Difficult; Prep: 1:00 - Cook: 1:45 + About 2 quarts.

You will never get the same flavor impact with vegetable broth as you do with broth made from meat, chicken, or fish, so using olive oil to unite and boost the flavors is important. Vegetable broths as such are rarely used in Pugliese kitchens-this one is for the benefit of strict vegetarians. INGREDIENTS:

2 medium yellow onions, quartered 3 carrots, peeled and cut in chunks 3 dark green outer celery ribs, cut in chunks 3 garlic cloves, lightly crushed with the flat blade of a knife 2 T extra virgin olive oil 6 plump brown mushrooms, cleaned and quartered (cremini or shitake are more flavorful than ordinary supermarket mushrooms; wild mushrooms, if you can find them, are best of all) 1 cup dry white wine

9 cups hot water 1 fat leek, rinsed carefully 1 fennel bulb, including the leafy green tops, chopped 1 T chopped fresh thyme, or 1 t dried, crumbled 1 3-inch cinnamon stick, optional 6 whole cloves, optional 6 slices of dried porcini mushrooms salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Ovenproof baking dish, stockpot METHOD: 1. Preheat the oven to 425 deg. F. In a flameproof glass or metal baking dish, turn the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic in the olive oil to coat them well. 2. Roast for 15 minutes; then add the mushrooms and stir to mix well. 3. Return to the oven for another 15 minutes, after which the vegetables should be brown and crispy on the edges and should give off a delicious aroma. 4. Remove the dish from the oven and serape the vegetables into a heavy stockpot or soup kettle. 5. Add the wine to the oven dish and set over medium heat. Cook the wine, scraping up the brown bits in the pan, until it is slightly reduced, about 10 minutes, then add to the stockpot with 9 cups hot water. 6. Add the leek, fennel, thyme, cinnamon, and cloves. Bring the stock to a simmer over medium-low heat, cover, and cook for at least 1 hour. 7. Meanwhile, put the dried mushrooms in a 1-cup measure and fill with boiling water. Let soak for 15 minutes. Remove the mushrooms (do not discard the soaking liquid) and rinse under running water to get rid of grit. Chop them coarsely and add to the stockpot along with the soaking liquid, strained through a fine-mesh sieve. 8. When the stock has finished cooking, strain it through a double layer of cheesecloth or a fine-mesh sieve. 9. Discard the vegetables and aromatics. 10. Taste the broth for seasoning, adding salt and pepper if necessary - be mindful of the salt, however, because reducing the broth later may concentrate the salt too much.

Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

WHITE FISH SOUP

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Puglia Preparation - Difficult Serves 6

A fish soup that does not call for tomatoes! This one is a good deal more refined than most Pugliese fish soups, a dish you'd be more likely to find in upscale restaurants than in home kitchens or humble fishermen's trattorie. Spice it up, if you wish, by adding a little dried hot red chile peperoncino, either whole or in flakes.In the course of testing this recipe, I discovered by accident something that would probably shock my Pugliese friends deeply: This tart soup is delicious cold and deeply refreshing during the dog days of summer. INGREDIENTS:

2 1/4 pounds boneless, firm-textured white fish (cod, hake, haddock, halibut) sea salt 4 cups Fish Broth 1/3 cup minced flat-leaf parsley 6 small bay leaves 2 TBSP white wine vinegar 1 lemon, very thinly sliced - at least 6 slices 2 garlic cloves, crushed and coarsely chopped 1 tsp black peppercorns 6 small sprigs flat-leaf parsley best quality extra virgin olive oil

Large, heavy pot with cover. METHOD:

1. Prepare the fish by cutting into 2-inch pieces. Set on a cake rack and sprinkle lightly with the sea salt. Leave for at least 10 minutes, no more than 30 minutes, in order to firm up the texture. 2. Bring the fish broth to a very gentle simmer in a stockpot over low heat. 3. Add minced parsley, bay leaves, vinegar, lemon slices, garlic, and peppercorns. Cover the pot and simmer and infuse for about 10 minutes. 4. Add the fish pieces to the pot and continue simmering very gently until the fish is cooked through, about 5 minutes. 5. Remove the bay leaves. 6. Serve immediately, making sure that each plate has, in addition to the fish and broth, a slice of lemon, a few black peppercorns, and a small bay leaf. Float a parsley sprig on the top of each serving and pass a cruet of fine olive oil for garnishing. Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

WINTER VEGETABLE SOUP

> MAIN > SOUP Minestra maritata alla Foggiana
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Puglia Serves 6 - 8 Preparation - Difficult; Prep: 1:00 - Cook: 1:30

When icy blasts from the Daunian mountains sweep across the wintry plains of the Tavoliere around Foggia, the country folk huddle inside next to smoky fires, venturing forth only to scavenge whatever scraps are left from summer's abundance. A little of this, a little of that, a pinch of something else, go into the layers that make up a proper maritata. But don't make the mistake of thinking you can just throw any old leftovers together.Each of these greens is carefully, separately, cooked, then layered and dressed with little squares of pancetta and a grating of pecorino before the

final bath of rich meat broth and a quick turn in a hot oven to marry the flavorswhence, apparently, the name maritata. Since the usual ingredients of the maritata-including wild fennel, wild chicory, and other wild greens-are not easy to obtain in this country, I have adapted the concept with greens that can be found here.You could even use Asian greens, such as tatsoi and bok choy. If you wish to make a vegetarian version, simply leave out the bacon and use vegetable stock instead of meat stock. A maritata can be infinitely varied, depending on what's in the market. Cauliflower might make one of the layers, for instance, or even thinly sliced potatoes.Some cooks like to increase the soup's warming potential with a few sprinkles of crushed red pepper flakes, and it's often served in a deep soup plate over a toasted crust of bread that's been rubbed with garlic and drizzled with olive oil. INGREDIENTS:

1/2 lb pancetta or slab bacon, cut into 1/4-inch dice 2 1/2 to 3 cups meat broth 1 bunch (1 lb) escarole, rinsed 1 bunch, (1 lb) red or green chard, rinsed 1 bunch (1 lb) dandelion greens, broccoli rabe, spinach, or turnip greens, or whatever is available, rinsed 4 to 5 T extra virgin olive oil 2 medium yellow onions, coarsely chopped 1 bulb fennel, coarsely chopped 1 bunch celery hearts, coarsely chopped 3/4 cup freshly grated pecorino or Parmigiano-Reggiano 1/2 cup freshly grated bread crumbs salt and freshly ground black pepper

Large pot, saucepan, saut pan, ovenproof casserole. METHOD: 1. If you are using slab bacon, immerse the diced bacon in a pan of rapidly boiling water and blanch for 2 minutes to get rid of the excessively smoky flavor. 2. Add the pancetta or blanched bacon squares to the meat stock in a saucepan and bring to a simmer very slowly over low heat. Once the stock reaches the simmering point, turn the heat down very low, so that the stock remains hot without actually cooking. 3. Place the rinsed and still wet escarole in a large pot and cook until tender but still al dente. If necessary, add just a little water to the liquid clinging to the

leaves to keep them from burning. When done, remove from the pot, chop coarsely, and set aside. 4. Add the chard to the liquid remaining in the pot, cook until al dente, remove, chop, and set aside. 5. Now add the final bunch of greens and proceed as for others. As you do this, you'll build up a few tablespoons of flavored vegetable stock in the bottom of the pot. 6. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a saut pan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. 7. Adjust so that the onions soften and turn golden but do not become brown.Using a slotted spoon, remove the onions from the pan, leaving most of the oil behind, and set aside. 8. Add another tablespoon of oil to the pan and saut the fennel until soft and golden. Remove, drain, and set aside. 9. Finally, adding yet another tablespoon of oil if necessary, gently cook the chopped celery till soft and golden, drain, and set aside. 10. Preheat the oven to 425 deg. F 11. Layer the cooked escarole in the bottom of an ovenproof soup pot, preferably an earthenware casserole. 12. Arrange a few squares of the pancetta or bacon over the top and sprinkle with a tablespoon of grated cheese. 13. Top with the sauted onions, add more pancetta and cheese, and continue in this manner, layering the vegetables in the pot - chard, fennel, dandelion or other greens, celery - interspersed with pancetta ad cheese. 14. Taste and add salt and pepper as necessary. 15. Make a thick layer of cheese on the topmost layer of vegetables and sprinkle with the bread crumbs. 16. Use the oil remaining in the pan to drizzle over the top, or add a fresh tablespoonful if necessary. 17. Add any juices left from the greens pot to the almost simmering stock and pour it over the layers in the soup pot.

18. The liquid should just come to the topmost layer of vegetables.Place the pot in the preheated oven and bake for 45 minutes, checking from time to time. If the top gets too brown, turn the heat down to 325 degrees F and continue cooking. Source: Flavors of Puglia Nancy Harmon Jenkins Broadway Books

SARDINIAN SOUP WITH BROTH, EGG, CHEESE AND BREAD

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Zuppa Sarda
Preparation: medium Prep: 25 Cook: 45 minutes Serves 6

INGREDIENTS:

8 cups clear stock 2 eggs 5 TBSP grated Parmesan cheese 1 pound Mozzarella cheese, diced 4 tsp finely chopped parsley 12 slices fried bread Freshly ground black pepper

Large Saucepan, small saucepan, ovenproof dish or casserole. METHOD: 1. THE stock for this soup is made from mixed chicken, beef and veal. 2. BRING the stock to the boil. Beat the eggs with the Parmesan and a sprinkling of freshly ground pepper. As soon as the stock comes to the boil, pour in the

egg-mixture and let it cook for a minute or so until set. Add the Mozzarella and parsley. 3. PUT 2 slices of hot fried bread into each soup bowl and ladle the hot soup over the top. From: Italian Regional Cooking (R)