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CONGRESS REPORT EADV 2010

Nobel Prize revolutionises skin care: Cells water channels specifically stimulated
The American biochemist, Prof. Peter Agre, was awarded the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 2003 for a groundbreaking discovery: He discovered that proteins form channels in the cell membrane to facilitate the transport of water as well as other molecules. One of these so-called aquaporins, aquaporin-3 (AQP-3), is specifically stimulated by a highly effective skin moisturiser from Beiersdorf: The scientists at Beiersdorf demonstrated that the innovative active ingredient, gluco-glycerol, is able to increase the formation of aquaporin channels, thereby improving water distribution within the epidermis. This property enables the skins moisture levels to be significantly increased*, as Dr. Annika Schrader, a dermatology researcher at Beiersdorf, Hamburg, explained.
Aquaporins are microscopic water channels located in cell membranes that control the water transfer into and out of the cells.

Long-term strengthening of the skins barrier function. The overall assessment made by Dr. Schrader was accordingly positive: We have found evidence to suggest that targeted stimulation on aquaporin-3 channels plays a key role in treating skin phenomena such as dry skin. The active ingredient, glucoglycerol, used in the formulation clearly leads to an increased supply of moisture to the skin which strengthens its barrier function in the long term and can also make it more resilient to environmental influences. AQUAporin ACTIVE moisturiser from Beiersdorf has been available in pharmacies since March 2010. 7

Aquaporin a key molecule for water transport

Why are aquaporins so important? In osmosis, water flows through a finepore membrane which other substances are unable to flow. This principle has been known since 1877. The reason for this phenomenon was discovered well over 100 years later by Peter Agre: He isolated a previously unknown membrane protein the aquaporin from a red blood cell. This protein subsequently turned out to be a key molecule for transporting water within the cells.

Up to three billion water molecules per second. To date, 13 aquaporins have been discovered in mammals. In some tissues they are capable of conducting water molecules at the astoundingly high rate of up to three billion molecules per second per channel. Significant reduction in transepidermal water loss. One type of aquaporin is the AQP-3 which can also conduct glycerol as well as water. In order to increase AQP-3 production, researchers at Beiersdorf use the innovative active ingredient, gluco-glycerol. Dr. Schrader: In-vivo measurements showed a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss after using topical formulations containing gluco-glycerol. These positive effects were confirmed in clinical studies in which a clear improvement was established on patients with dry, dehydrated skin. In a placebo-controlled study comprising 23 test subjects, great improvements were seen in the most frequently reported parameters of dry skin, scaling and erythema. In further clinical studies, patients treated with a gluco-glycerol formulation showed a significantly greater improvement rate in dryness and erythema compared with patients treated with a formulation that did not contain this active ingredient (85.7% vs. 60% and 71.4% vs. 56.3% respectively). Skin compatibility was rated by more than 85% of the patients treated as either very good or good.

Dr. Annika Schrader, dermatology researcher at Beiersdorf AG

Since then 13 aquaporins have been identified. What is so special about AQP-3? AQP-3 is the most abundant aquaporin in the human epidermis. It belongs to the aquaglyceroporins which also conduct small organic molecules such as glycerol and urea in addition to water. And with AQP-3 it is also true that the more of these water channels a cell membrane has, the more moisture can be distributed. In order to boost the production of AQP-3, we tested numerous bioactive substances until the ideal active ingredient was found in the shape of gluco-glycerol. What connections with nature do you see in your research work? Osmosis is the process that enables a wilted plant to stand proud again. We have tried to achieve similar results on the human skin by increasing the water transport in the cells of the epidermis. In this way we can increase the moisture content of the skin and, in turn, counter the formation of dry skin. 7

* Schrader, A., Hiddemann, S., Scherdin, U., Conzelmann, S., Siefken, W., Blatt, T.: AQP-3: a key target to influence human skin moisturisation. Poster, EADV Congress 2010

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CONGRESS REPORT EADV 2010

Combination of urea and hyaluronic acid effectively counteracts wrinkles

Sustained increase in the skins moisture levels
Around half of all women aged over 50 suffer from dry skin. In addition to ageing processes, dry skin is an important factor in the formation of wrinkles, especially in conjunction with diseases such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. A combination of the active ingredients, urea and hyaluronic acid, in a topical formulation counteracts the formation of wrinkles and has been proven to improve the condition of the skin, explained Dr. Andrea Schlermann from the Department of Medical Affairs at Beiersdorf AG at the European Dermatology Congress (EADV) in Gothenburg. Both substances play a key role in supplying moisture to the skin and maintaining its moisture-retaining capacity. Studies confirm the effect on dry and diseased skin. The application of the cream led to a reduction in wrinkles and crows feet of up to 24% in a six week clinical study comprising 42 women aged between 46 and 61 (average age 53.8 years) suffering from dry to very dry skin 1. According to a further study there was an improvement in skin condition in 96.9% of the patients 2. 32 subjects aged between 36 and 73 (average age 50.7 years) who suffered from psoriasis or atopic dermatitis as well as from dry skin were included in this study. Dryness and scaliness improved after two weeks topical application of the cream. Feelings of tightness in the skin, itching and redness were also reduced. Consumer study: Women reported Affairs at Beiersdorf AG reduced wrinkle formation. Beiersdorf has used this new combination of active ingredients, Hyal-Urea, in a new product line for day, night and eye care for very dry skin and wrinkles. Apart from the known clinical studies, the effectiveness of the active ingredient combination was also confirmed in a four-week consumer study on 128 women suffering from dry or very dry skin: 92% of the subjects reported that their skin was intensively moisturised with a reduction in the feeling of skin tightness. 80% reported significantly firmer skin, with 74% reporting a reduction in the number of wrinkles formed. 7 The HyalUrea Anti-Wrinkle Face Care
HyalUrea Anti-Wrinkle Day Creme 3 HyalUrea Anti-Wrinkle Eye Creme 3 HyalUrea Anti-Wrinkle Night Creme 3 Dr. Andrea Schlermann, Department of Medical

The AQUAporin ACTIVE-Product Family

AQUAporin ACTIVE Light: 3 AQUAporin ACTIVE Rich: 3 for dry and sensitive skin for normal skin types AQUAporin ACTIVE SPF 15 + UVA: 3 AQUAporin ACTIVE Eye Cream: 3 for normal to combination skin

for the delicate area around the eyes

List of references: 1 Beiersdorf AG, Data on file (2010), 2 Beiersdorf AG, Data on file (2010)

Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg Unnastrae 48 D-20245 Hamburg, Germany Fon +49(0)40-4909-0 www.beiersdorf.com www.eucerin.com