TRIP REPORT: TRINIDAD & TOBAGO

SEPTEMBER 21 - OCTOBER 9, 2001

Leader: Bill Murphy
Assistant Leader: Phil Davis

I often keep a written record of trips that I take. I find that reading them months or years later always reminds me
of things I had forgotten and helps me relive the experiences. I thought that, having shared this trip with you, I
would share my notes with you as well. I hope they stimulate some good memories.

Sept. 21 Our group (minus Gus, who flew directly from New York and would meet us at Asa Wright)
assembled at the BWIA gate in Miami International Airport to fly to Port of Spain in Trinidad.
About 3-1/2 hours later we arrived in the velvety tropical darkness at the brand-new Piarco
International Airport terminal building. Our luggage was all present and accounted for and customs
and immigration went smoothly, except for Bunny’s banana.

Our guides, Jogie and Ramdass, and driver, Singh, met us and then whisked us away to the Asa
Wright Nature Centre (AWNC), our home for the next week. At the Centre we were greeted by the
manager, Louis Julian, and treated to refreshing icy glasses of rum punch as the staff showed us to
our rooms, where fresh sandwiches and ice water had been set out for us. It had been a very long
travel day for most of us, so we retired for the night, falling asleep to the exotic sounds of the
tropical night.

Sept. 22 Many of us arose before dawn to enjoy what must be one of the most enchanting places anywhere,
the AWNC veranda. Aided by resident naturalist Jason Radix, we began to sort through the
overwhelming variety of birds into species. By breakfast, names like Bananaquit, Blue-gray
Tanager, Palm Tanager, Crested Oropendola, Great Kiskadee, Green and Purple Honeycreeper, and
many other new names were becoming part of our vocabulary.

After breakfast we took our first walk with Jogie to explore the Center's entrance drive. During our
walk Jogie introduced us to many new species of birds and a number of tropical plants, including
Wild Tobacco, with berries that attract tanagers and Bare-eyed Thrushes; Heliconia, with its
lobster-claw-shaped red flowers; Deermeat, whose tubular red flowers were clearly designed for
hummingbirds; and the conspicuous Cecropia tree.

Later, on the veranda, we met a birding group led by Richard ffrench, author of “A Guide to the
Birds of Trinidad and Tobago.” We were to see them on almost every subsequent day of the trip,
including on Tobago.

After lunch we explored more of the AWNC grounds on our own, following the many nature trails
through various habitats.

Some of the new birds seen this day included White and Short-tailed Hawks, Ornate Hawk-Eagle, a
flock of Lilac-tailed Parrotlet (which we would see many more times during our stay at AWNC),
many of the hummingbirds, White-tailed and Violaceous Trogons, Blue-crowned Motmot, Channel-
billed Toucan, Chestnut Woodpecker, Great and Barred Antshrikes, Ochre-bellied and Yellow-
breasted Flycatchers, White-bearded and Golden-headed Manakins, both of the wren species on the
island (Rufous-breasted and House), and lots of tanagers, honeycreepers, and other nectar-loving
species. The feeders just outside the veranda proved, as always, to be a magnet for birds.

Complimentary tea and crumpets were served at 5 pm daily, followed by the much anticipated
complimentary rum punch at 6 pm. After a fine dinner we watched a video about the Asa Wright
Nature Center, tallied up the day's birds, and then took a nocturnal nature walk with Jason, who
showed us a huge tarantula, among many other interesting creatures.

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Sept. 23 Awakening to a chorus of Cocoa Thrushes, Crested Oropendolas, and other exotic bird songs, some
of us went on another pre-breakfast walk, following the entrance road. Blue-crowned Motmots,
Boat-billed Flycatchers, hummers, and other birds flew among the giant bamboo, Heliconia, and
bromeliad-covered trees that lined the road.

After breakfast we met Jogie, Ashford, and Singh for our first field trip. We traveled the winding
Blanchisseuse Road across the Northern Range to the village of Blanchisseuse on the Caribbean
Sea. At each stop along the way, our guides called in and showed us such species as Blue-headed
and Orange-winged Parrots, Plain-brown and Cocoa (recently split from “Buff-throated”)
Woodcreepers, White-winged Swallow, and many others.

We stopped for lunch at a beach near the mouth of the Marianne River, overlooking the blue surf of
the Caribbean. Brown Pelicans patrolled offshore for fish, Magnificent Frigatebirds flew overhead,
and a few distant Brown Boobies scaled over the waves as we walked down the coconut-lined beach
to the Marianne River lagoon. Among the memorable birds at this stop was a Sanderling that
landed almost atop Barbara’s feet.

All this and still we were back to AWNC in time for rum punch on the veranda.

Sept. 24 Ahh, another beautiful morning in paradise! Those of us who took an early walk had good views of
a number of species in the cool of the morning, including a White-flanked Antwren. The veranda
yielded a female Tufted Coquette making her morning appearance to feed on the vervain, a Bearded
Bellbird clanging down the valley, and exceptionally close views of a large Tegu lizard at the
feeders.

On today's field trip we traveled to the east coast of Trinidad. As we passed the eastern outskirts of
Arima we spotted a resident Pearl Kite on the powerline along the road. This Kestrel-sized species
was extremely rare in Trinidad when I first began birding there.

We stopped at the Agricultural Research Station, where cattle and water buffalo are crossbred to
produce a drought-hardy breed of milking cattle. Although concern about hoof-and-mouth disease
precluded our entry, from a neighboring lane we still got good views of Wattled Jacanas and
Southern Lapwings in the wet areas in the field. Savanna Hawks perched and flew for good views,
and Pied Water-Tyrants and their close relatives, the White-headed Marsh-Tyrants, were present in
good numbers.

We made a rest stop in the village of V alencia, where we purchased soft drinks to cool off. We ate
lunch at beautiful Manzanilla Beach, which is lined with coconut palms. We stayed there for a
while to escape the heat of the afternoon and enjoyed the chance to walk along the surf or just sit in
the shade and watch the locals swim and play cricket.

Back on the road, we made several stops, observing perched Savanna Hawks, Common Black-
Hawks, and Yellow-headed Caracaras. A bit further along, we stopped at Bush-Bush Creek to try
without luck to call in the very shy Silvered Antbird. This stop provided our first close-up view of a
mass of mangrove roots.

Continuing on into the Nariva Swamp’s Melon Patch, a good “tick” was Azure Gallinule. Gray
Hawks gave us superb close-up scope views. Several Pinnated Bitterns were visible in the swamp
above the vegetation, holding their classic “skypointing” poses. The dwellings in this part of
Trinidad were the most rustic we would see, most of them accessible only by traversing a single
plank over a ditch or small pond.

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 We ended our day at Wallerfield, the abandoned U.S. Army Air Corps facility. We watched as
flocks of Red-bellied Macaws flew in and around us in the Moriche Palms. Fork-tailed Palm-Swifts
darted overhead. We also saw a number of Sulphury Flycatchers, a rare species seldom found on any
Trinidad bird tour.

After dinner we held our tally, then watched a video on hummingbirds.

Sept. 25 This morning after our traditional pre-breakfast walk, which featured a Squirrel Cuckoo and a pair
of Piratic Flycatchers, followed by a savory breakfast, we headed down the Arima V alley to spend
time in the lowlands. But first, Jogie took us partway up the Guanapo V alley, where he worked hard
to call in a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl that most of us got to see and a Forest Elaenia that some of us
got to see.

From the Guanapo V alley we headed southeast to Wallerfield again, where Jogie was able to
produce a hyperactive female Ruby-topaz, a species not usually present in Trinidad during the time
of our visit.

After birding Wallerfield, we had lunch in the village of Cumuto at LC's store, where we cooled off
with sodas and enjoyed the casserole and salad that the Center had prepared for us. Across from the
store, in front of the old police station, is a traditional colony of Yellow-rumped Caciques with their
oriole-like nests. The colony, however, had dispersed temporarily following their breeding season,
so we had to locate them farther on, along a road through the lowland Arena Forest.

Once inside the forest, Jogie attracted a White-bellied Antbird close to us, but it declined to come
into view despite Jogie’s tenacity. Later, while birding between raindrops, Jogie heard and pointed
out the two-note call of the Striped Cuckoo. Just about that time the rain really began in earnest, so
we headed back to the Center.

Some of the other delectable species we saw this day were Savanna, and Zone-tailed Hawks, Ornate
Hawk-Eagle, and Lineated Woodpecker.

After dinner we had our tally, then watched an unforgettable video about giant tarantulas.

Sept. 26 Today was originally scheduled as our free day, but in the Tropics one must be flexible about
changes in schedules, as ours did change on this day. Our free day was postponed until the
following day.

After our pre-breakfast bird walk and breakfast, we had an optional field trip to the highest point on
Blanchisseuse Road, the Textel microwave relay station. We first walked along the rather steep
entrance drive and then, at the summit, around most of the perimeter of the security fence. Birds
were scarce. The best birds sighted were a high-flying Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift or two. As we
looked around we could see the Caroni Plains to the south and the Caribbean to the north
simultaneously. A little farther north on Blanchisseuse Road we picked out a flock of Speckled
Tanagers, a real treat.

The highlight of the afternoon was a hike through the rainforest at the Center to Dunstan Cave,
home of the unique Oilbird. Along the way we saw a beautiful Collared Trogon sitting quietly on its
perch. When we reached the grotto that contains the cave, we entered in small groups. We could see
several Oilbirds in their nests, one of which contained two young. Our guide explained that in times
past, the nestlings, fattened on an oil-rich diet of palm fruits, were collected by the native
inhabitants and rendered into oil, giving rise to the species' name. We also found tiny cricket frogs
(Calistethis) calling along the Guacharo River, the stream that runs through the cave. After
spending so much time in the twilight of the rainforest, when we emerged into the sunlight it felt as

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 if we had begun a new day. On the walk back to the Center, those of us who tarried got a good look
at the spectacular Chestnut Woodpecker; a real treat for those who had missed it a the AWNC
feeders earlier in the trip.

In the evening, Jogie drove some of us on another optional trip, this one back to Wallerfield to look
for nocturnal birds. Near his house in V erdant V ale, a flock of perhaps 25 White-collared Swifts
zoomed overhead, looking like nighthawks on steroids. At Wallerfield, between showers, we were
able to hear Tropical Screech-Owl and Pauraque. Using Jogie’s million-candlepower light we
picked out those species as well as White-tailed Nightjar and Common Potoo. The rain persisted, so
we didn’t linger after seeing our target species.

Sept. 27 Now then -- today was our free day. With our too many options having been reduced to a
manageable number, some of us left the Center in the morning, while others left the Center later in
the afternoon and met us near the Caroni Swamp boat docks. Those of us on the early shift stopped
at the Trincity Sewage Ponds, where Least Grebe, Purple Gallinule, Common Moorhen, White-
winged Swallow, Yellow-billed and Large-billed Terns, Striated Heron, Little Egret, Yellow-
chinned Spinetail, Pied Water-Tyrant, Yellow-hooded Blackbird, and several 3- to 6-foot-long
Spectacled Caiman (Caiman crocodilus) were among the new species we found in and around these
ponds. The bird of the day, if not the trip, was a Gray Heron, a species that belongs on the other side
of the Atlantic.

From there we headed west, toward Port-of-Spain, then turned south toward several towns on the
Gulf of Paria. Between showers, near the Hindu crematorium at Waterloo, we added a large number
of shorebirds, herons, terns, stilt, cormorant, skimmer, and other waterbirds to our list.

Heading further south we visited the Orange Grove / Brickfield area. Jogie drove us out onto a long
jetty where we searched the shoreline though our optics for an elusive Maguari Stork that had been
present up to the day before (and which was never seen again). Blue-and-white Swallows flying over
the sugarcane fields were new for the trip.

After lunch in a bar in Brickfield, we headed back north and searched the Caroni rice fields for
birds. Larry Peebles and I were fortunate to have the only Stripe-backed Bittern of the trip fly across
the lane in front of our car. The group saw Fulvous and Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks, Red-
breasted Blackbird, and a Long-winged Harrier in the distance. The cycling of rice production in the
Caroni rice fields ensures that there are always a lot of newly planted fields attracting birds.

In midafternoon, we all rendezvoused at the Caroni boat docks for the highlight of the day, a
leisurely cruise through magnificent red mangroves to view Scarlet Ibis flying in to roost for the
night. Our good luck held, as even before we had boarded the boat, we saw one of the rarer species
of this mangrove habitat. A Red-capped Cardinal landed in good view across the canal from us.
Then, as we pulled away from the dock, it flew across the channel and landed on the benches next
to the boat ramp. Another mangrove specialist, the Bicolored Conebill, made an appearance in
response to pishing. Most of the doves rocketing across the swamp were Eared Doves, a species that
is uncommon in Trinidad but which we found to be rather common in Tobago. We also saw a
Common Potoo imitating a piece of dead wood.

As we made our way deep into this brackish mangrove swamp, along the way we were treated to
very close views of an arboreal snake called Cooke’s tree boa. Other wildlife we saw included Four-
eyed Fish (Anableps) and root-climbing crabs. Our boat eventually stopped in a huge open lagoon,
where we shared cakes and drinks, with and without rum. The sunset-lit ibis were luminous as they
flew over in groups of up to 25, silent and beautiful. Then it was back to the Center to pack for our
morning flight to Tobago.

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Sept. 28 Today we said farewell to the Asa Wright Nature Centre and took the early flight to Tobago. A new
species of martin welcomed us the instant we stepped off our BWIA (“bee-wee”) airplane. The only
martins we saw in Trinidad had been Gray-breasted Martins; however, the only ones we saw in
Tobago were Caribbean Martins, emphasizing the different set of bird species that results from the
islands being separated by 26 miles of ocean.

At the Tobago airport we met Adolphus James, who would be our guide on Tobago. Adolphus drove
us around the perimeter of the airport, where we had excellent views of Gray Kingbirds and White-
tipped Doves. Except for Ospreys, Royal, Gull-billed, and some distant (=unidentifiable) Sterna
terns, the Caribbean seemed devoid of birds at that moment, so we birded other spots in the
southern lowlands of Tobago. As usual, the best spot was Buccoo Marsh, which offered excellent
looks at marsh birds, including several uncommon species like White-cheeked Pintail. Other
wetland species present included Cattle, Great, and Snowy Egrets, Black-crowned Night-Heron,
Whimbrel, Spotted and Solitary Sandpipers, and both species of Yellowlegs. We also picked up
some nice Tobago specialists such as White-fringed Antwren, Red-crowned Woodpecker, and Scrub
Greenlet. Many species awaited us deeper in the swamp, among them a skitish Stilt Sandpiper and
an exhausted Semipalmated Sandpiper that fed almost at our feet.

Having satisfied our immediate thirst for new species, we headed some 20 miles north on the
Windward Road, to the Blue Waters Inn near the village of Speyside. As we crested the last ridge,
we stopped at an overlook to take in the panoramic vista before us – Batteaux Bay, Speyside, Goat
Island, Little Tobago Island, and St. Giles islands far offshore.

Following check-in and lunch (and a siesta for some), we took a leisurely hike up the entrance drive
and along the hillside path, viewing Short-tailed Swifts from above, which allowed us to examine
their diagnostic tan rump color, and both Black-faced and Blue-black Grassquits. Those birders who
lingered at the Inn saw Brown and Red-footed Boobies, Brown Noddy, and Royal Tern. We noted
that on Tobago, Frigatebirds replace the vultures that patrol the skies of Trinidad.

We shared the dining room with the ffrench group, then we conducted our tally on the far side of
the bar. At night the hummingbird feeder near the main desk, which hosted Bananaquits and
hummingbirds during the day, came alive with large numbers of fruit bats imbibing the sugar water.

Sept. 29 We were awakened this morning by the grating calls of nearby Rufous-vented Chachalacas, which
walked among the branches of the trees around the Blue Waters Inn. Common birds on the property
included Bare-eyed Thrush, Black-faced Grassquit, White-tipped Dove, Blue-gray Tanager, and
practically domestic (so it seemed) Ruddy Turnstones.

Today's field trip was quite exotic, traveling by glass-bottomed boat to Little Tobago Island. The
boat trip was quite an adventure, as we viewed smooth and rough brain corals, fan corals, tube
corals, and giant clam corals, all of which provided suitable habitat for a variety of gaudily-colored
tropical fish. As we left the reef, the deeper water produced an intense blue glow through the boat's
glass bottom, a sight that was nearly as spellbinding as the fish we had just seen. We were all
looking up again soon enough, as we approached Little Tobago Island. Wordworth Frank's
experience and abilities as a boatman were obvious as he skillfully guided our boat through the
waves to the landing at Little Tobago Island. The Sterna terns that flew near our boat were
identifiable as Roseate Terns, which have all-black bills but no trace of rose coloration on the breast
in this plumage. Because of the new piers that had been constructed at the Blue Waters Inn and
Little Tobago, this was the first dry embarking and landing we had ever had on a Little Tobago trip.

Once ashore, having discovered that feral chickens were the source of the many strange sounds we
were hearing, we climbed the steps and inclines to the warden’s house. Along the way we passed

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 dozens of specimens of a gigantic aroid called Anthurium hookeri. The island was beautiful, with
the virgin seasonal dry forest appearing the same as it did 10,000 years ago. A descending,
melancholy note was the only sign we had of a V enezuelan Flycatcher somewhere up in the canopy.
Not long after passing the warden’s house, some members of the group lost sight of the lead group
and took the wrong trail, which resulted in an unscheduled foray almost to sea level. By the time
they joined the main body of birders, there had been quite a lot of excitement at the overlook. While
relishing the view from the high cliffs on the Atlantic/windward side of the island, the lead group
had looked down on Red-billed Tropicbirds and Red-footed (both phases) and Brown Boobies as
they soared over the ocean. They had also had a terrific view of one of only two White-tailed
Tropicbirds known to be anywhere around T&T. We who made up the rear guard heard later that
Frank had given an excellent tour, discussing the names and uses of many of the plants as well as
the history of the island.

As we prepared to depart from Little Tobago Island, a flock of six Broad-winged Hawks appeared
overhead. Similarly, just after we docked at the Blue Waters Inn, and just ahead of a rain squall, a
group of four Great Black-Hawks soared above Pigeon Peak in company with a “kettle” of at least
100 Magnificent Frigatebirds. Later that afternoon, along the entrance drive Paul discovered an
immature Yellow-crowned Night-Heron wading in the stream. First identified as an immature
Black-crowned Night-Heron, a highly reasonable choice, subsequent examination showed the face
to have the beginnings of the black stripes that are diagnostic for adult Yellow-crowned Night-
Heron.

After dinner we were entertained by one of the most prominent steel bands in Tobago. Steel drums
were invented in Trinidad. The music, called "pan", along with calypso, another T&T original
music style, are national treasures and a focus of the famous "Carnival" celebrations held in
February. In addition to local musical selections, the renditions of “Hotel California” (by the Eagles)
and “I Did It My Way” (Sinatra) were favorites of some members of our group. Even the normally
reserved Richard ffrench was seen swaying to the irresistable beat of the music.

Sept. 30 This morning's warm, sunny weather along the beach belied the rain that awaited us in the
highlands of Tobago's Main Ridge. All-day rain is uncommon here, even in the rainy season, and
the weather this day was typical – showers interspersed with dry periods, during which we did our
birding. Looking on the bright side, everyone should experience rain in the rainforest, right?

Some of our best birds were seen at the Forestry Section station on top of the Main Ridge. Near a
fruiting fig tree we saw Yellow-legged Thrush, a normally highly secretive species, a Blue-backed
Manakin, which is more to be expected deep in the rainforest, and two juvenile Red-legged
Honeycreepers. After donning our “wellingtons,” or rubber boots, we mushed along Gilpin Trace,
where between showers we found the rare White-tailed Sabrewing hummingbird, Rufous-tailed
Jacamar, and a pair of Plain Antvireos. Fuscous Flycatcher was also new for the trip. This was a
most impressive area of rainforest, with a dense canopy, many epiphytes, and more palms than we
had found in other areas we had visited. One member of our group exclaimed, “Tobago is the
greenest place I’ve ever seen!” We walked through the greenery as far as the second waterfall,
which is farther than most birding groups penetrate this rainforest.

On our drive back we finally nailed an elusive species, Pale-vented Pigeon. As luck would have it,
we found a second individual of this species at the same stop. Back at the Blue Waters Inn, two
intrepid birders (Solange and Jeanne) hired a boat to take them out to the St. Giles Islands, where
they saw large numbers of nesting Magnificent Frigatebirds and Brown and Red-footed Boobies,
along with numbers of Red-billed Tropicbirds.

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 This was our last night together. After dinner we all discussed our favorite parts of the trip and
made our final tally (see the attached bird list). Our trip total was 215, which puts it in the Top Ten
of the 45 trips I’ve led to T&T.

Oct. 1 V ery early the next morning we bid farewell to the Blue Waters Inn. Adolphus drove the group to
the airport for the flight back to Trinidad and then home.

I hope you will agree that this was a fantastic experience combining great bird species, unforgettable
scenery, good food and lodging, and lots of congenial camaraderie.

I'm going to miss the sights and smells of these tropical islands and the smiling faces and accents of
the local people. I feel like I made some new friends among you, too. Hardly ever have I enjoyed a
trip or the company of a group more.

So as they say in Trinidad and Tobago -- Until, mon!!

“Best” birds of the trip, all things considered:

Oilbird
Scarlet Ibis
Gray Heron
Blue-and-white Swallow
Ornate Hawk-Eagle
Azure Gallinule
Stripe-backed Bittern
Pinnated Bittern
Little Egret
White-tailed Sabrewing
Short-tailed Hawk (light and dark morphs overhead together)

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