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Pump Controller
Pump Controller
Pump Controller
Any solar water heating system (DIY or otherwise) with a pump must have an electronic controller of some sort if everything is to run optimally.
This controller detects the temperature of the solar panel as well as that of the tank which stores the heated water. Whenever the solar panel is hotter than the stored water, the pump should run to send hot water from the panel into the hot water tank. However, when the stored water is hotter than the solar panel, the pump (pictured below) should be off since the stored water would otherwise be cooled by the panel.
Since this is a very simple concept, it is possible for anyone to build their own solar water heating pump controller relatively easily, and very cheaply. 12V 5 Watt pumps are available which can be powered directly by similarly rated PV Solar Panels providing completely renewable energy water heating.
The circuit diagram displayed above is from the Silicon Chip Online article entitled Pump Controller for Solar Water System. (Click on the circuit diagram to view a larger printable version). This very simple circuit is made up of just a few components. Key are the two temperature sensors (LM335Z) which are used to measure the temperatures of the solar panel and the water tank, and the comparator chip (LM393) which compares the two temperature readings. An STP60NE06 mosfet (a type of transistor) is used to turn on the pump when triggered by the output from the comparator. When the temperature of Sensor 1 (solar panel) is higher than the temperature of Sensor 2 (water tank), the 12V solar water pump is activated pumping hot water from the solar panel to the water tank as desired. When the temperature of the water tank is higher than that of the solar panel (for example at night) the pump is off.
The LM335Z temperature sensor (LM335Z Datasheet PDF available here) will accurately measure temperatures between -40 and 100 degrees Celcius. The voltage measured between the ground and the positive terminals of the LM335Z increases at 10mV per C. Since absolute zero is -273C, at 0C, the voltage measured at 0C is 2.73V . At room temperature the voltage will be 273 + 20 = 2.93 Volts etc. Since every sensor is slightly different, the circuit includes a couple of 10k variable resistors which can be used to set the voltage output of the two sensors used so that they give exactly the same reading when they are at the same temperature.
Since the sensors are accurate to within 1C, the variable resistors (trimpots) can be left out to simplify the circuit as shown above. Put the sensor with the higher output voltage at a particular temperature as Sensor 2 so that if both sensors are at the same temperature, the pump will be off.
Sensor 1 should be stuck against the copper pipe as it leaves the solar panel, and Sensor 2 should be
connected to the outside of the hot water tank underneath the insulation. In this way the two sensors will measure the temperature of the water pretty accurately without getting themselves wet. ( Note that water + sensor = broken sensor) NEW LM335Z Precision Temperature Sensors are now available in the REUK Shop.
For testing purposes the two temperature sensors have been placed side by side on the breadboard, and a 12V LED Spotlight Bulb is used instead of the hot water pump. Since the two temperature sensors are at the same temperature the pump is off. The 1 MOhm 10 MOhm resistor across legs 1 and 3 of the comparator chip provides 12mV of hysteresis - i.e. the readings from Sensor 1 and Sensor 2 have to differ by at least 12mV (1.2C) for the output from the comparator chip to be changed.
When Sensor 1 (solar panel) is warmed up slightly by the heat of a finger, the light bulb used in this prototype turns on as it should.
If the hot water pump is a 220-240 Volt AC model (or 120 VAC for US visitors), then this same circuit can still be used by using a 12V relay (and diode) in place of the 12V pump in the circuit. When the temperature of the solar panel sensor is higher than that of the hot water tank, the relay will be triggered supplying electricity (from an external 240 Volt AC source) to the hot water pump.
Water Pump Relay Control Circuit Diagram Parts: R1 = 15K - 1/4W Resistors R2 = 15K - 1/4W Resistors R3 = 10K - 1/4W Resistor R4 = 1K - 1/4W Resistor D1 = LED - any type and color D2 = 1N4148 - 75V 150mA Diode Q1 = BC337 - 45V 800mA NPN Transistor IC1 = 4001 Quad 2 Input NOR Gate CMos IC SW = SPDT Toggle or Slide Switch (Optional) RL1 = Relay with SPDT 2A @ 230V switch Coil Voltage 12V - Coil resistance 200-300 Ohm
SIMPLE WELL PUMP CONTROLLER FIND OUT HOW TO AUTOMATICALLY GET WATER FROM THE WELL INTO A HEADER TANK
water | electronics | electric circuit
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In this article we will look at how a simple system using float switches and relays can be put together to automate the process of getting water from a well, spring, or stream into a header tank ready for use. This system design uses no electronics, is very cheap and simple to put together, and it is reliable in operation. In our article Simple Sump Pump Controller we put together an electronics-free system to automatically pump out a sump pit when it gets full. One float switch at the top of the pit detects when it is full (turning on the pump), and a second near the bottom detects when it has been emptied (turning off the pump). If you have not already done so, you may wish to read that article first so you understand the concept behind the system described here.
Pictured above is the connection diagram for this modified system. The float switches are configured such that they sit horizontally when they are not in water, and float upwards when they are in water: in water = switch open, out of water = switch closed. When the water level in the header tank falls below the lower float switch (LFS), that switch closes
energising the relay. Since the upper float switch (UFS) must also be out of water and closed, the
following connection is made: battery 12V -> UFS -> relay COM -> relay NO -> relay coil
Therefore, the relay is latched - i.e. will remain energised - for as long as the UFS remains closed (which it will as long as it is not under water). When the level of the water pumped up from the well finally reaches up above the UFS, it opens that switch breaking the connection between the battery and the relay coil and so turns off the pump.
If a mains powered pump is to be used, then a qualified electrician must do the wiring (or at least check it and sign it off) and ensure that everything is correctly earthed and insulated etc.
Note that adding the LEDs made this circuit more complicated since it quite difficult to make an LED light up when a switch is open (which the float switches are when they are under water). In the circuit
pictured above a 4001B quad NOR gate integrated circuit was used to control the LEDs. NEW Pictured below is our latest circuit design for this system which gets rid of the need for an integrated circuit making it easier to solder together.
This version uses the mini-circuit pictured below to turn the red and yellow LEDs on only when the relevant float switch is open. When the float switch is closed, the voltage on the positive and negative legs of the LED is 12V - therefore the LED is off. When the float switch is open, 12V is on the positive leg of the LED and the negative leg is connected to GND (0V) via a current limiting resistor - therefore the LED is lit.
If you would like to have a pump controller such as the one pictured above put together, please contact neil@reuk.co.uk with full details of your requirements. Our latest circuit is available for around 17.