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2b.understanding Quality Procedures in Cutting & Fusing
2b.understanding Quality Procedures in Cutting & Fusing
Procedures practiced for Quality control & Assurance (Cutting & Fusing)
Inputs Details related to Fabric such as face side /Shade bands etc.. 1. Shade swatches along with the face side swatch approved by the buyer should be received from the Go down and Merchandising dept respectively. 2. Shade segregation should be complying with the approved swatches. 3. Verify whether the shade segregation is matching to the standard. 4. Approval from Ho/Buying office mandatory if the received lots of fabric are not matching to standards. 5. The approval must have a checklist form for all the tests & approval standards w. r. t colour, wash, embroidery, printing, hand feel 6. Shade band details (Shade A, B, C, D) after verification should be received from fabric inspector & spreading team also should be given a copy for reference. 7. Shade grouping also must be received from the fabric godown. 8. Fabric details such as to face/back, nap direction; hand feel should be received from the godown duly approved by the merchant. 9. Shade wise/widthwise segregated rolls only should be received, checked & then should proceed for laying. 10.Both ends of every roll should have sticker consisting details of shade no, roll no, width and other relevant detail to enable easy identification of rolls. Cutting Forecast shade wise 1. Cuttable quantities from each lot and shade should be informed to marketing, QA, & Buyer QA in advance for approval. 2. Cutting of rolls/bales should be done shade wise as per the breakdown of the PO Note: Rolls should be allotted in such a way that no of shades included in a single lay or shipment or size range is minimized.
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Fusing-Study of Fusing Shrinkage 1. Cut fabric swatches with square template of size 18 X18(or 12x 12) 2. Fuse the fabric & specified interlining at specified temperature, pressure & time. 3. Allow for cooling of the fused parts. 4. Check for fusing shrinkage and record same ---this should be incorporated into the patterns as allowance for fusing. 5. Check for shade variation if any due to fusing. If you observe any shade variation, report to the Cutting In Charge and initiate corrective action. 6. Check the fusing for defects like peel off, bubbles etc. Inform deviations/defects if any to the concerned for necessary corrective action. 7. QA team has to educate/specify area of fusing, and temperature and pressure to be set for fusing-
8. Fusing tests must be carried out twice a day, once at the start of the machine then in the afternoon.
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1. Cutting incharge, production manager & IE shall plan for the pilot & bulk cutting. 2. Pilot run cutting shall be done as per the colour/size/quantity advised by FM/PM/IE.-the selection of the rolls should cover all the shades and shrinkage groups 3. Make a report of observations, comments, suggestions, amendments, simplification, risk analysis, corrective action plan based on the above analysis. 4. Obtain feed back from the sewing & buying QA and then act upon the necessary corrective action. Marker drawing & Preservation of patterns 1. Carbon Papers could be used for duplication of markers in case of non-CAD markers.In case of some orders it is not allowed---efforts be made to obtain computer markers from a close by plant.. 2. The pattern/marker being suggested by Sampling team is only a starting point for the cutting incharge to work on better fabric utilization. Cutting incharge should try out different markers to maximize fabric 3. A Parts Checklist has to be maintained by the marker drawer to ensure coverage of all parts in the lay. 4. Pattern should be verified for required allowances, tolerances, notches and embellishment placement marks, grain line, nap direction indications before marking.
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5. During laying the layers should check the lay-to-lay shade variation & also center to selvedge variation as a part of online check procedure.
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Bulk Cutting 1. Lay wise manpower requirement must be planned. 2. Cutters must be trained on the methods of accurate cutting, especially for parts with deep curves. If possible diagrammatic representation of the direction of movement of the cutter needs to be illustrated. 3. Cutters shall inspect the cutting machine for oil leakage, straightness of the blade, sharpening quality, evenness in sharpening of the blade, dust accumulation before cutting. 4. Cutters shall cut lay as per the mark up using straight knife m/c and move the parts to band knife as per the discussion in PP meeting. 5. QC shall inspect all the cut parts using patterns and initiate corrective action upon the detection of defect. 6. Prepare 1st cut bundle inspection report; notify fabric defects and cutting defects to FM/PM. 7. QC should have a cutting checklist against which 1 st bundle audit has to be conducted. Checklist should have details of allowances, tolerance included in pattern, notches and embellishments placement markings details.
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Numbering
1. Numbering plan must be given by the numbering incharge, specifying the style #, colour, P.O No., Serial No., No. Of garments cut, sizes. 2. All the parts shall be numbered in a pre determined sequence and at pre determined location. 3. Numbering stickers gum strength (Light/Medium/Heavy) has to be decided keeping in mind the kind of fabric being cut.
Panel Checking
1. The checkers carried out panel checking by placing the cut panels on the pattern and checking for accuracy of notches, grain lines, nap direction, crocked cutting, measurements & tolerance. 2. Mark the pattern on a board (Acrylic. Card Board) along with +/tolerance as dotted lines around the outline marked. Place the cut panel (component) on this marked area. It becomes easier to asses
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10. Notches & drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced. 11. CAD markers are set as per ratio required and width attained . The following marking points should have to be indicated on pattern: 1. Style Number, 2. Size 3. Front Part/ Back Part 4. Straight Bottom/ Tailed Bottom. 5. Grain Line 5. Cutting Line 6. Sewing Line 7. Construction Line. (Measurement line (Point) on Pattern) 8. Folding Line. (Pattern foldingFold / Unfold Cutting) 9. Structural Line (PlacementsPocket, dart, printing, embroidery)
Cutting Quality
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Marker Making Fabric Spreading & Inspection Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay Fabric Cutting Numbering 100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed. Sorting & Bundling Input to Sewing Room.
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8. Layers shall mark both end bits with roll number, cut-lot number, meter age --all the bits every lay shall be bundled and given to recutting department. 9. End-bits should be always laid face-up, no change in laying procedure without prior information from the incharge 10. End-bits should be placed separately (Shade wise) to avoid discrepancies, the roll & taka number should be written and stacked separately 11. Re-Cutting should be done from the same lot of fabric, matching the shade, to avoid shade variation.
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