destination A SilkAir Destination

By Richard Smith

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T he Lembeh Strait is a narrow channel
of water between Lembeh Island and
the mainland of North Sulawesi. This

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unassuming stretch of water has some of
the most unique diving the world has to
offer, with unexpected creatures lurking
on every sponge, seafan and coral.

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In case you’re not familiar with the
area, Lembeh is best known for muck
diving, which may not sound particularly
attractive, but can easily become an all-
consuming passion. The term refers to
diving in murky, relatively non-pretty
conditions for the purpose of searching
for small, often highly camouflaged
critters. Aficionados almost certainly
develop a “must-see” list of the unique
animals that they absolutely want to find.

I’m a muck-diving addict, and to

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give you an idea of what Lembeh
has to offer, here’s my personal Top
10 list (Though if it weren’t for the
limits on space, this would probably
be more like a Top 50 list!).

Lembeh Strait:
Top 10 Must-See List
34 35
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a. Weedy scorpionfish (Rhinopias frondosa). This large individual was living under
a large coral outcrop at 8m depth, which is quite shallow for this species.
b. A weedy scorpionfish which was living in a large patch of Halimeda algae

a. b.
Rhinopias Scorpionfish
Rhinopias frondosa and Rhinopias eschmeyeri
There are few places in the world where these magnificent scorpionfish
can be regularly encountered, and Lembeh is one of them. Of the six
species of Rhinopias, there are two found in the strait. Both can reach up to
20-25cm in length and are found on gently sloping coral and rubble reefs.

R. frondosa, the weedy scorpionfish, is slightly more common than its

cousin R. eschmeyeri, the paddle-flap scorpionfish. Both species can take
on just about any colour, depending on their surroundings, but they can
easily be distinguished by the amount of skin ornamentation present
over the body and head. The paddle-flap species has a smooth body and
fin edges and usually is a single uniform colour. The weedy species, as its
name suggests, is covered in small skin flaps and filaments, making its
outline much harder to distinguish.

Sites: Air Perang, Angel’s Window, Nudi Falls

Depth: 8 to >40m

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Habitat Preference: Sloping coral or rubble reefs often sitting in a
prominent location Blue Ribbon Eel
Rhinomuraena quaesita
Paddle-flap scorpionfish (Rhinopias eschmeyeri) While this is a fairly common species
are easily distinguished from the weedy species throughout the Asia-Pacific region,
by the lack of skin filaments.
the rare yellow form appears to be
relatively more common here. I visited

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one site several times where two
Ambon Scorpionfish large, bright-yellow ribbon eels were
Pteroidichthys amboinensis living two feet apart. One morning I
Named after an island in the Moluccas went to this spot to find both cosily
group of central Indonesia, this ornate living in a single hole. A yellow blue
species can occasionally be found ribbon eel seems like a contradiction
in Lembeh. The huge cirri (long skin in terms but the yellow form is female,
extensions) above the eyes are quite and the more common blue phase
astounding and help distinguish it male. There’s also a bicolour black and
from other species. These elongated yellow phase, which is the juvenile.
appendages have given them an
alternate common name of “Bugs Bunny” Individuals begin life as black and yellow,
scorpionfish, which seems to suit them. then change to blue and finally to yellow.
Changing sex during a lifetime is quite
Since these cirri hide their eyes, the common on the reef and in this case, it’s
fish can easily be mistaken for algae or known as protandry, as the fish begins
weed, like many creatures in Lembeh, life as a male followed by a change to
but a closer look will reveal the fish. If female. Species that begin as female and
one Ambon is found, take some time to change to male are referred to as being
Ambon scorpionfish search the surrounding area, since they protogynous.
(Pteroidichthys
usually live in pairs and are no more than
amboinensis) are also
sometimes called Bugs
a few metres apart. Sites: Police Pier, Angel’s Window and
Bunny scorpionfish any reef with coral growth and sandy areas
Male blue ribbon eels (Rhinomuraena quaesita)
after the appendages Sites: Madidir, Hairball, Retak Larry Depth: 10–25m
are blue and yellow in colour whereas females
over their eyes. Depth: 8–30m Habitat Preference: Reefs with coral
are yellow.
Habitat Preference: Silty and soft growth, where the eels can live in sandy
sediment sites on gentle slopes burrows

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 04
Hairy Frogfish
Antennarius striatus
The hairy frogfish is a variation of the
striped frogfish, which can also have
a smooth skin texture. The hairy form
Sharon Y. K. Yong is commonly found in Lembeh, often
Air Asia Berhad near similarly coloured and textured soft
corals or algae, occurring in black, white
and pink colour forms. The frogfish has
a.
a worm-like, fleshy lure, which it waves
in front of its mouth, awaiting a curious
or hungry fish to approach closely, at
which point it opens its huge mouth,
sucking in the hapless fish.

One morning I was lucky enough to

observe a face-off between a small
mantis shrimp and hairy frogfish, which
occurred as the fish strayed too close to b.
the shrimp’s hole. The mantis left the
hole and attacked the frogfish with its
sharp arm spines until the fish backed off.
Sites: Air Perang, Pantai Parigi, TK3
Depth: 10–40m
Habitat Preference: Sloping sandy
c.
a. The hairy variation of the striped
frogfish (Antennarius striatus)
is often found living near soft
coral colonies in Lembeh.
b. This hairy frogfish strayed too
close to the hole of a small
mantis shrimp so the shrimp

SAY NO TO SHARK FIN

attacked the unsuspecting fish.
areas usually with some soft coral or c. The smooth phase of the hairy
algal patches frogfish can also be found in d.
areas where there is a lack of
filamentous algae and soft corals.
d. Hairy frogfish sometimes
seek refuge next to urchins
to break up their outline.

Muck diving is the bread-and-butter
of tourism in Lembeh, so don’t visit
expecting pristine reefs. At first
glance, the bottles, cans, shoes, ropes
and other things that litter many dive
sites may horrify you. Bitung is an
economically important and bustling
port and is the source of much of
this waste, but Lembeh’s underwater it may not be natural or encouraged,
residents appear to embrace the rubbish. the organisms of Lembeh seem to
A wine bottle might be the perfect approve of these new reef structures.
home for an octopus. An old bag of
nachos might provide a challenge for a
ghost pipefish to mimic, or an old boot
might house a small moray eel. This is
the way of life in Lembeh, and while

All employees and shareholders of have chosen — we abstain from consuming sharkfin. 39
 05
Unusual Nudibranchs
For nudibranch lovers, there is no
beating Lembeh for the diversity of
species that can be found, and there
are new treasures to be found at every
site. For instance, the solar powered
a. d. slug (Phyllodesmium longicirrum) can
occasionally be seen feasting on soft
corals from which it extracts microscopic
algae. These algae are then relocated to
the processes, called cerata, on the back,
allowing the slug to sunbathe and gather
energy as the algae photosynthesise,
providing the slug with nutrients.

Another highlight for me was the

b. e.
c.
a. The solar powered nudibranch (Phyllodesmium
longicirrum) can reach 20cm in length.
b. Ceratosoma tenue laying eggs on the sand
c. Euselenops luniceps uses its huge half moon shaped
head to seek out prey.
d. Flabellina rubrolineolata is an especially beautiful
reef dwelling nudibranch.
e. Bursatella leachi are generally quite rare and
therefore do not have a common name.
nocturnal slug Euselenops luniceps, of
which I saw half a dozen at TK3. The
unusual half-moon shape of the head
and spotted colouration are its most
distinctive features, and it actively glides
over the sandy surface as if hovering.
Sites: All
Depth: Any
Habitat Preference: Wide range of
habitats from sand to coral

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Wunderpus octopuses (Wunderpus
Wunderpus photogenicus) can change their
Wunderpus photogenicus colouration to blend into the substrate.

I had never seen a wunderpus before

visiting Lembeh, so my ears perked up
when the guide mentioned them during
a briefing. The striking rusty-brown
and white coloured octopus isn’t shy
and can be seen moving around the
reef at dusk and dawn while searching
for crustaceans and other prey. They
hunt by flaring their arms and webbing
over small rocks and holes, and then
searching the area beneath with their
arm tips in an attempt to find their prey
within. I was ecstatic to finally see one
and was not disappointed by its display.

Sites: Tandu Rusa, TK3, Air Perang

Depth: 10–20m
Habitat Preference: Varied habitat
tolerance from sandy patches to coral-
rich areas

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Bumblebee shrimp (Phyllognathia ceratophthalmus)
are stunning shrimp that are usually found in pairs on
sponge- or coral-dominated reefs.
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a.
Juvenile Fish
Lembeh is a nursery ground for many
different fish. Both common reef fish and
more unusual species are found here,
and the contrast between juvenile and
adult forms can be quite stark. Juveniles
are usually more colourful or highly
camouflaged than adults. Colouration is
a form of protection from predators, as
colourful critters tend to be either toxic
or mimic a toxic species. In addition,
well-camouflaged juveniles are able to
avoid the attention of predators. The
highlight in Lembeh for me was finding
42 b.
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Bumblebee Shrimp
Phyllognathia ceratophthalmus
Bumblebee shrimp can easily be
distinguished from other shrimp by the
vibrant colours and intricate patterning
of orange patches and small blue spots
over a beige background. This species
is most frequently found around small
coral or sponge outcrops where pairs
tend to inhabit a small home range. They
are quite shy, and patience is required
before the shrimp can be seen straying
from their small lair, which is usually an
overhang or hole in the reef.
Sites: Police Pier, TK1
Depth: 5–20m
Habitat Preference:
Coral or sponge reef
juvenile barramundis, which closely
resemble the pattern of a Dalmation.
I saw several of these brilliant juveniles
around Police Pier, ranging in size from
2.5-cm long individuals with oversized
fins and a flamenco swimming style to
larger adolescents with more subdued
colouration.
Sites: All
Depth: Any
Habitat Preference: Most often
found around small coral bommies,
or among seagrass or algae
c.
Whitemargin stargazers (Uranoscopus sulphureus)
rarely can be found swimming freely and are
identified by the large black spot on the dorsal fin.
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Stargazers
Uranoscopus spp.
Stargazers really are menacing-looking
fish, and must strike terror into the hearts
of Lembeh’s small fish. As they lurk with
their bodies covered by the substrate,
all that gives them away are their large
eyes and sinister smile protruding from
the sand. They wait patiently in this pose
for hours on end using their tongue,
which is modified to resemble a worm, to
attract fish to within striking range. A row
of teeth then impales prey and prevents
escape. If stargazers were any larger,
I would have to reconsider diving!
Sites: Madidir, TK3, Hairball
Depth: Any
Habitat Preference: Sandy or muddy
sites, most often seen at night
a. Juvenile Batavia batfish (Platax batavianus) are intricately patterned with black and white bands.
b. Juvenile flying gurnards (Dactyloptena orientalis) have very prominent false eye spots on the pectoral
fins which deter larger fish from attacking the seemingly “bigger” fish
c. This juvenile sole was quite striking against the black sand and appears to be undescribed.
d. The coat of the barramundi (Cromileptes altivelis) would have Cruella De Vil green with envy.
e. A juvenile black-saddled toby (Canthigaster valentini) seeking refuge among branches of soft coral
f. Juvenile warty frogfish (Antennarius maculatus) are highly photogenic.
d. e. f. 43
 A SilkAir Destination

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INDONESIA
The swimming style of this undescribed species is
similar to that of the Australian seadragons.
New and Undescribed
Species
One of the most amazing features of
diving in Lembeh is that you never know
what you might find. Sites change, and
while one may be “hot” for some time, SilkAir operates regular international flights from PLUGS
a new site with a different array of critters
will no doubt be ready for your next visit.
Lembeh has the potential to surprise
even veteran divers and guides. Earlier
this year, a brand new species of pygmy
pipehorse was discovered here, which
might turn out to be a new genus.
Reaching only three centimetres in
length and as thin as a piece of string,
this diminutive syngnathid swims like
a sea dragon but holds onto small
hydroids or algae with a prehensile tail.
This species has now also been found
at Wakatobi in southern Sulawesi too,
which just illustrates how much remains
Passports must be valid for at least six months, and
Fact File if a visa is required, a blank page in your passport
is also needed. Citizens for non-ASEAN countries
MANADO
require a US$25 visa on arrival for stays between
three and thirty days. Departure taxes have recently
increased to Rp 150,000 for international flights.
NORTH
SULAWESI
LEMBEH GSM coverage with international roaming
BITUNG
capability is available. Internet connection is
available at some resorts.
Singapore to Manado. Various domestic Indonesian 230V, 50Hz. 110V is also
carriers, including Garuda, Merpati and Lion Air, available at many resorts
fly to Manado from several hubs including Bali, and liveaboards.
Jakarta and Sorong.
Indonesian Rupiah, but some resorts will accept
Diving is possible year-round in the strait due to US$ or even Euros. Tipping is not generally
the protection afforded by Lembeh Island. There is practiced but is appreciated.
some seasonality to the critters, so the critters you
see can vary depending on the time of year. While No vaccinations are required but avoiding biting
a 3mm suit may be sufficient for some people, the insects is always to be encouraged. Travellers
water temperatures are generally slightly lower than from yellow fever areas are required to have a
Manado reefs, some people may require a 5mm suit. valid yellow fever vaccination certificate. Care
AVG TEMP AVG RAINFALL (CM) should be taken while diving due to the number of
30˚c 40 scorpionfish and stonefish that hide in the sand.
25˚c 30
20˚c 20 GMT + 8 hrs
15˚c 10

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to be discovered in these rich Indonesian
I believe you will get more out of waters. So keep searching!
your trip if you take the effort to
learn a little about the local culture Sites: Any
and interact with local people. Depth: Shallows to the depths
Learning a few basic words and Habitat Preference: Check out any
phrases of the local language, and all habitats.
Bahasa Indonesia, will be greatly
appreciated by local residents:

Please Tolong
Thank you Terima kasih
Yes Ya special thanks to the staff at Diver’s Lodge
No Tidak Lembeh. My guide, Ungke, had amazing enthusiasm
Good Bagus for Lembeh’s bountiful organisms and humoured my
Already Sudah endless searches for hard-to-find critters!
Not yet Belum
One Satu
Two Dua From the author
Three Tiga www.oceanrealmimages.com
Good morning Selamat pagi “While each muck dive location has its own array of
Good afternoon Selamat siang unique creatures, I think you would be hard-pressed
Good evening Selamat sore to beat Lembeh. Both times I’ve visited, I’ve seen
Good night Selamat malam Richard Smith countless new species and behaviours. Plus, the ease
Goodbye Sampai jumpa of diving and sheltered conditions make it great at any
time of year. I’ve already planned my next visit!”

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Lembeh Dive Sites

1 Bimoli wreck
2 Goby-A-Crab
3 Kapal Indah
4 Pulau Abadi
5 Mawali wreck
6 Critter Hunt
7 Police Pier
8 Sarena West
9 Nudi Falls
10 Aer Perang
11 Pantai Parigi
12 Jahir
13 Makawide
14 Tanjung Tebal
15 Nudi Retreat
16 Magic Rock
17 Batu Sandar
18 Retak Larry
19 Teluk Kembahu1
20 Teluk Kembahu2
21 Angel's Window
22 Hairball2
23 Hairball1
24 Aw Shucks
25 Batu Merah
26 Pulau Putus
27 Batu Angus
28 California Dreaming
29 Jiko Dance
 LEMBEH DIVE SITES

1 Bimoli Wreck - Propeller 40m,Length 60m

A Japanese WWII wreck lying on its starboard side in 100' of water. It suffered major damage when it was hit by torpedo.
The twisted wreckage is heavily overgrown and great for exploring. A giant lobster usually puts in an appearance and a
school of giant Barracuda circle the ship.

2 Goby-A-Crab - Depth 5m - 25m

A point on Lembeh across from Bitung Town. A fringing reef runs down to about 80' where it turns into sand. The reef has
giant sea fans and sponges, which are home to mollusks, squat lobsters and nudibranchs. In the shallows look for mantis
shrimps and crab-eyed-gobys.

3 Kapal Indah - Wreck & Coral - prop 25m, length 40m

Means beautiful ship. It is a small wreck about 180' long, it sits in 100' of water along side a fringing reef. The wreck has
been down for 40+ years so is covered in coral life; a great spot for finding black coral crabs on sea whips and crinoid
critters also large scorpion fish. When your bottom time is up simply swim into the shallows where you can find devilfish
and crab-eyed gobies.

4 Pulau Abadi - Depth 5m - 25m

A shallow reef with good coral growth and many giant sea fans, pygmy sea horses have been found here along with crab-
eyed goby's and mantis shrimp.

5 Mawali Wreck - Propeller 30m,Length 70m

A wreck named for the near-by village on Lembeh. A Japanese WWII ship that was scuttled lies on its port side in 100' of
water; it's about 250' long, intact and heavily overgrown. The highlight of the dive is its many large lionfish that suspend
themselves around the masts. Also seen are many kinds of nudibranchs huge scorpion fish and a banded sea snake
often puts in an appearance.

6 Critter Hunt - Depth 5m - 25m

At the southern tip of Sarena Kecil or Small Island does not look like much at first. It is a sandy slope dotted with small
coral heads down to a sand rubble area at 60'. Sharp eyes can find seahorses, decorator crabs, squat lobsters and
nudibranchs. Bob-tailed squid and tiny red waspfish come out at night.

7 Police Pier - Depth 3m - 25m

A muck dive underneath the pier used by the police. A gradual sandy slope runs from the shallows. The bottom is covered
with patches of sponges and rubble that conceal thorny seahorses and frogfish. They blend in well with their habitat but
our guides are experts at finding them.

8 Sarena West - Depth 5m -25m

At the northwest tip of Sarena Kecil, it is a steep reef with lots of nooks and crannies for critters to hide. The reef is
beautiful with many green branching corals. Two giant frogfish are often seen and also crab-eyed gobies in the shallows.

9 Nudi Falls - Depth 3m - 28m

A beautiful miniwall that gives way to a sand and rubble slope. This site is well known for it's variety of nudibranchs, comet
fish and pygmy seahorses.

10 Aer Perang - Depth 3m - 25m

Means War-water. Just after WWI, a passing warship blasted a hole in the rocks to get at the fresh water, hence the
name. The sandy bottom is dotted with patches of elegance coral which is teeming with commensal shrimp and crab life,
while the sand is home to many unusual critters like snake eels, fingered dragonettes, seahorses and robust pipefish. At
night, stargazers and bubble shells have been spotted.

11 Pantai Parigi - Depth 3m - 28m

A gentle slope just off of Lembeh Island, hiding in the sand we've seen seahorses, devil fish and robust pipe fish, in the
shallows is a very pretty patch reef in which to end the dive.

12 Jahir - Depth 3m - 30m

Named after the dive guides that discovered it. Another great muck site with lots of purple heart urchin's home to the
beautiful Zebra crab. Ambon scorpion fish are regulars along with tiny frogfish and many eels. Nighttime gives a good
opportunity to see the strange stargazer.

13 Makawide - Depth 5m - 30m

A gradual slope which is a great place to find lots of different kinds of sand dweller's including the Black-rayed shrimp
goby and dragonettes, the depths have lots of sea whips where black coral crabs and shrimps make their home, pygmy
seahorses have been spotted around 90'.
14 Tanjung Tebal - Depth 5m - 25m
A point on Lembeh Island from which a series of canyons stretches out from the land into the strait. The canyons are lined
with gorgonians and seawhips that attract schooling bannerfish and fusiliers.

15 Nudi Retreat - Depth 3m - 28m

A small-protected cove along the Sulawesi coast. The reef slope starts in only 10' of water and gradually works its way
deeper. A colorful wall abuts the slope in the shallows. It has resident cockatoo waspfish, and a pair of Pegasus sea
moths. Frogfish often put in an appearance and on night dives a coral cat shark can be seen.

16 Magic Rock - Depth 3m - 25m

A small fringing reef leads to patch reefs and coral heads at 35'. The site takes its name from the small rock that teems
with life, ribbon eels; pearl-eyed morays, sweepers, leaf fish and devilfish have been seen. The shallows are a good place
to spot large cuttlefish.

17 Batu Sandar - Depth 4m - 25m

Or Leaning Rock, it is found midway up on Lembeh Island. The fringing reef in the shallows gives way to sand and patch
reefs that go down to 80', ornate ghost pipefish are regulars here.

18 Retak Larry - Depth 3m - 25m

Classic black sand muck dive. Frogfish and Ambon Scorpionfish are among the many critters to inhabit this site.

19 Teluk Kembahu 1 - Depth 3m - 25m

Named after the village in the bay is another gentle black sand slope with a great chance of seeing many different types of
pipefish, from ornates to robust, also in the sand stargazers and devilfish have been seen.

20 Teluk Kembahu 2 - Depth 3m - 25m

Next door to Teluk Kembahu 1. Regular sightings of the infamous Rhinopious on this site.

21 Angel's Window - Depth 3m - 28m

A submerged pinnacle off the North Coast of Lembeh Island that rises to just under the surface. Visibility is usually good
the pinnacle has several swimthroughs at 80' where Jacks and snappers hang out. It also has an assortment of critters
like pygmy seahorses, devilfish, and leaf fish.

22 Hairball 2 - Depth 3m - 30m

A site similar to Hairball 1 but with a great chance of seeing common seahorses in the shallows.

23 Hairball 1 - Depth 3m - 30m

A true "Muck" site that is home to some of our most unusual critters. There are no corals, only black sand, algae and an
occasional patch of sponges. Some of the critters found here grow skin filaments to blend in with the algae, often seen are
the frogfish, Ambon scorpion fish, snake eels, devilfish, dragonettes and even the flamboyant cuttlefish.

24 Aw Shucks - Depth 3m - 28m

Is a patch reef near one of the pearl farms along the Sulawesi Coast, The mushroom corals here sometimes have the tiny
commensal white pipefish. A seemingly endless sand slope can hold surprises like devilfish, nudibranchs and snake eels.

25 Batu Merah - Depth 3 - 24m

Or Red Rock, it is a gradual sand slope with a fringing reef that has several beautiful ribbon eels. At 80' there is a
depression in the sand that houses and marvelous rock that is filled with sweepers, feather stars, cleaner shrimp,
dragonettes, eels and many other critters.

26 Pulau Putus - Depth 3 - 30m

On the Northern end of Lembeh Island is a steep reef that gives way to a sand slope at 80'. A very pretty site with good
visibility and lots of fish life. You can we see the shy jaw fish on a sand slope by the mooring.

27 Batu Angus - Depth 2m - 12m

Situated at the Northern end of the Straight. This shallow site is visited at sunset to see the colourful Mandarin fish mating!
Regular sightings of the blue ring octopus also at this beautiful dive site.

28 California Dreaming - Depth 3m - 40m

On the northern coast of Lembeh Island so visibility is usually good. The area is full of gorgonians, sea fans and brilliant
orange tree corals that bloom when the current is running. Giant green frogfish have been seen and there are plenty of
fish. A shallow plateau at 40' is a great place for hunting unusual critters.

29 Jiko Dance - Depth 3m - 40m

This is the Northern most site and often has the clearest water. This is a steep reef slope filled with beautiful soft corals,
sea fans and sponges. The pygmy seahorse is often spotted here.