Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Clocks Bonus 12 66
Clocks Bonus 12 66
Fretwork Clock inspired by 18th century Victorian elegance. 28H x 16W. Requires a 3 1/2 clock insert.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
Top Assembly
I I P M J J
12 9 3 6
L Q H K
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
Bottom Assembly R
F F
G F
B A B
C D
#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
#P551 - Americas Pride Fretwork Clock Description Base Front & Back Side Front Overlay Side Overlay Bottom Floor Front & Back Panel Window Panel Top Floor Clock Panel Front & Back Top Window Side Fence Front Fence Clock Overlay Crest Top Window Overlay Top Roof Top Floor Spacer Spacer Bottom Window Overlay Base Front & Back (A)
Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each. Right pattern piece.
Size 1/4T x 5W x 15L 1/4T x 5W x 7 1/2L 1/8T x 3 1/8W x 15 1/4L 1/8T x 3 1/8W x 8L 3/8T x 8 3/4W x 16 1/2L 1/4T x 9 1/2W x 14 1/2L 1/4T x 7 1/2W x 9 1/2L 3/8T x 6 1/2W x 14 1/2L 1/4T x 10 1/2W x 13L 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 7 3/8L 1/8T x 2W x 3 1/2L 1/8T x 2W x 8 1/4L 1/16 - 1/8T x 3 3/4W x 7 1/2L 1/4T x 9 1/2W x 15 1/4L 1/16 - 1/8T x 2W x 3 3/4L 1/4T x 4 7/8W x 7 1/4L 1/4T x 2 1/2W x 7L 1/4T x 3 13/16W x 7L 1/16 - 1/8T x 3 5/16W x 7 1/2L
#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Side (B)
Side (B)
#P551 Pattern overlap line Small dashed lines indicate placement of Front Overlay (C) on Base Front only.
#P551
Side (B)
#P551
Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
#P551
Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Back
Bottom Window (G) Side Overlay (D) Side (B) Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails. #P551
Note: dashed lines indicate placement of Back (A) and Back Panel (F).
Note: Dashed lines for (F) & (G) indicate placement on top of Floor (E).
#P551
#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
Small dashed line indicates placement of Bottom Window Overlay (S). Attach with glue or silicone. Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
#P551 Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails. Clock Panel Back (I)
Attach Top Floo Spacer (Q) here with glue and finishing nails.
Front
Stock: 3/8, cut 1 Right pattern piece. Side Fence (K) Attach Top Floor Spacer (Q) here with glue and finishing nails. Pattern overlap line
p To
o Ro
f(
P)
#P551
Front
35
Bore a hole in the Front only to insert the clock of your choice. Be sure of the size opening you need as not all clocks require the same size opening. Pattern overlap line
#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Small dashed line indicates placement of Top Window Overlay (O). Attach with glue or silicone. Cut slot for Front Fence (L) Attach to Top Floor Spacer (Q) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Stock: 1/8
#P551
Crest (N)
Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.
#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Crest (N)
Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.
#P551
Roof Front
Cut at 35
Cut at 35
#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Spacer (R)
Stock 1/4 Attach to top of Bottom Floor (E) with glue and finishing nails.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
B Y Y FF A D C EE
12 9 6 3
H Q CC
AA S U
Z V T I N J K R W P BB V Z L AA O X M
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
#P568
#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line Dashed line indicates placement of Clock Underlay (EE). Drill hole for clock shaft.
#P568
Attach to Top Window Panel with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
#P568
#P568
x 18 # nd ea u l g th wi t ron fF o Ro to h tac At . ils na g in ish n i f 5/8
Crest (B)
Stock 1/4 Left pattern piece.
#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Deer (F)
Stock 1/4
#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Tree (G)
#P568
Attach Bottom Window Panel (K) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
Attach Rail Bracket (O) here. Cut slots in Front Panel only.
Cut Door opening and Roof slots in Front Panel (I) only.
Attach to Bottom Floor Spacer (V) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
Stock 1/4, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece. Bottom Floor Spacer (V)
Please note: it may be necessary to sand the inside edges of the Door so that it will open and close more easily.
Stock 1/4
Top
Bracket (BB)
#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Bracket (BB)
#P568
#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Front Pan
Step (W)
Front Rai
#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Step (W)
#P568 Back Panel (I) Cut on these lines for Bottom Floor Spacer (V). Pendulum Bracket (P)
Clock Panel Front (A) Cut on Solid line for Pendulum. Note: check opening for pendulum movement you are using.
#P568
te Stoc ps (W k 1/ 4, c ) ut S
Stock 1/4, cut on outer solid line. Right pattern piece.
1 ea ch
L ock St
Br 4 er 4, cut w o 1/
et ack
(T)
#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
B ock St
F t2 cu om t t 4 o 1/ ,
t ron
Bra
t( cke
X)
#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
34
Roof (Y)
Stock 1/4, cut 2 Attach to Front & Back (A) with #18 x 5/8 finishing nails and glue. Top
Front
34
Attach to front edge of Top & Bottom Floors with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails. Pattern overlap line
#P568
Overlay (DD)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN
L L H G
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
12 9 6 3
K F
#P569
Front (A)
Stock: 1/4. Top pattern piece.
#P569
Front (A)
Stock: 1/4 Middle pattern piece.
e tab
Front (A)
Stock: 1/4 Bottom pattern piece.
#P569
Back (B)
Stock: 1/4. Top pattern piece.
Back (B)
Stock: 1/4 Middle pattern piece.
Back (B)
#P569
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Side (D)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Top pattern piece.
#P569
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Side (D)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece
#P569
Side Base (F) Base Anchor (K) Base Anchor (K) Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each
#P569
#P569
Side Sp
ire (H)
) nchor (L Spire A
) nchor (L Spire A
#P569
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
) nchor (L Spire A
Floor (I)
Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.
Adjust slots, if necessary, for the thickness of the material used. Insert Front tab here. Front
#P569
Floor (I)
Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.
#P569
Side (D)
#P569 Spire (G) Note: Due to the angle of the Spire assembly, it may be necessary to sand the inside and/or outside edges of the tabs to fit in the Ceiling slots easier. Spire (G)
Ceiling (J)
Stock: 1/4
ir 1/4 Sptock:
S
h nc cut 4 A e ,
( or
L)
#P569
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
#P570 - Leavenworth Requires a pendulum movement kit (#A309 - #A312) 24H x 14W
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
D C A C Q A P E
12 9 3 6
E B N
H J M I
F G K
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
#P570
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
Note: Cut a 4 diameter hole in Back Panel (A). This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.
Use glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails to attach Front & Back to Window Panels. Spacer (N)
#P570
#P570
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Spacer (N)
Spacer (N)
#P570
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
26
Roof (C)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2
Top
Front
26
#P570
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Ro
C) of (
(C)
Crest (D)
Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.
(C)
Crest (D)
Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.
Bottom (G)
#P570 Attach to Floor (M) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
Bottom (G)
Stock: 1/4, top pattern section Left pattern piece. Pattern overlap line
Floor (M)
Floor (M
Floor (M)
Overlay (L)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
Overlay (Q)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
Front (A)
Floor (M)
Stock: 1/4
Spacer (N)
Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece. Cut on these lines for Spacer (N).
Floor (M)
#P570
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Bottom (R)
Stock: 1/4, Glue to bottom of Bottom (G).
#P570
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
C B
CC Z AA
G Z
DD T Z S I F X EE J BB Z
#P571
Q P
N M O
N O M
12 9 6 3
#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Stock: 1/4 Stock: 1/4. Bottom pattern piece. Pattern overlap line
(N
pp
nel
pp
ort
Pa
Pa
ort
nel (N
Su
#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Su
pp
ort
Pa
nel
(O (O )
) Pa nel
Su pp ort
(N
pp
nel
Su pp
ort
Pa
Pa
ort
nel (N )
3rd Floor
Su
pp o
rt P
ane
l (O l (O )
rt P ane
2nd Floor
1st Floor
#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
#P571 Pattern overlap line 2nd Floor Dashed lines indicate Bottom Frame Spacer (X)
1st Floor
3rd Floor
3rd Floor
#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
2nd Floor
1st Floor
#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Fr
t on
Le
eg
Fr on tL
#P571
Left Side Panel (I) Separator (DD) Front Frame Support (EE) Front Frame (A)
o Fr
nt
eg
Fr on tL
eg
#P571
Fr
L nt
eg
Front
#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
14
45
#P571
Separator (DD)
Stock: 1/8, cut 2
12
#P571
12
Stock: 1/4
#P572 - Victorian Lynn Pendulum Clock Feel a sense of accomplishment when you create one of these treasured keepskakes. 34H x 13W.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
I B
E D
12 9 3 6
B
H
P S
F G R
GREAT AMERICAN
Q
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
J J G L S F
N
#P572
#P572
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Crest (A)
Stock 1/4 Left pattern piece.
#P572
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Attach to Roof (I) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
Crest (A)
Stock 1/4 Right pattern piece.
#P572
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Note: Cut a 4 diameter hole in Back (B). This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.
#P572
#P572
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
#P572
Front (B)
Stock 1/4
Roof (I)
Stock 1/4, cut 2
Top
36
Front
Attach to Front & Back (B) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
36
#P572
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Attach Side Arch (K) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
#P572 Pattern overlap line Note: Adjust pendulum rod so that the bob hangs in this approximate location.
#P572
Front (J)
Stock 1/4
#P572 Back (B) Bracket (M) Back (B) Cut on solid line for Pendulum in Top Spacer (G) only.
Stock 1/4
Stock 1/4
#P572
Stock 1/8
#P572
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
A C
L T B U S
K N
M V2 V3 V6 I H J R O V5
3 6
P O
12 9
F V4
V1 Z2 W
X Z1
Y Y
Z1 V4 V1 G
#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
Size
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 W X Y Z1 Z2
1/4T x 3W x 10 1/2L 2 1/4T x 5 1/2W x 6 3/8L 2 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 6 5/8L 2 1/4T x 4 3/4W x 7 3/8L 1 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 16L 1 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 16L 1 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 16L 1 1/8T x 3 1/2W x 7 1/2L 2 1/8T x 3 5/8W x 7 5/8L 2 1/8T x 3 1/4W x 7 3/8L 4 2 ea 1/8T x 2 5/8W x 4 1/4L 1/8T x 1 7/8W x 4L 4 1/8T x 5/8W x 4L 8 1/8T x 3W x 3 1/8L 2 1 ea 1/4T x 7 3/8W x 7 3/8L 1/4T x 4W x 6 7/8L 2 1/4T x 4W x 7 3/8L 2 1/16-1/8T x 2 5/8W x 6 3/4L 2 1/8T x 3 1/2W x 7 1/4L 2 1/8T x 3 5/8W x 6 1/4L 2 1/8T x 3 1/8W x 6L 4 1/8T x 3W x 15 7/8L 2 1/8T x 3W x 4 3/4L 2 1/8T x 3W x 4 1/2L 2 1/8T x 3W x 5 3/4L 4 1/8T x 5/8W x 7 3/8L 8 1/8T x 3W x 6 1/2L 1 1 ea 1/4T x 3 7/8W x 14 1/2L 1/4T x 3 7/8W x 4 1/2L 2 1/4T x 4 1/2W x 14L 2 1/4T x 3 1/8W x 8 3/8L 2 1/4T x 3 5/8W x 8 3/8L 2
Crest (A)
Stock 1/4, cut 2
#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Ro of
(C
(C
of
#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Ro
Top 58
Roof (C)
Stock 1/4, cut 2. Bevel edge by sanding on a belt sander to fit against Center Crest (D). Front
30
#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
(B)
(B)
Crest (A)
#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Rail (V2)
Roof (C)
#P573 Back Gable (B) Front Wall (T) Pattern overlap line Front Wall (S) Front Gable (B) Front Rail (V6) Crest (A)
Roof (C)
Crest (A)
Rail (V2)
Rail (V4)
Spacer (P)
Stock 1/4, cut 2 Left pattern piece. Pattern overlap line
Rail V1
Rail (V4)
#P573
Spacer (P)
Stock 1/4, cut 2 Right pattern piece. Back Wall (I)
Rail (V4)
Side (X)
Spacer (Y)
Stock 1/4, cut 2 Left pattern piece.
Rail V1
Side (X)
Spacer (Y)
Rail (V4)
#P573
#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Ceiling (N)
Stock: 1/8, cut 2
Front
Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails. Spacer (P)
Spacer (P)
#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Spacer (P)
#P573
Spacer (P)
#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Overlay (R)
#P573 Bottom Floor and Center Floor Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails. Stock 1/8, cut 2 Top Floor (E)
Outside edge
Attach Top Floor (E) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Rail (V2)
Side (X)
#P573
Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each Note: cut design in Front only. Right pattern piece.
Side (X)
Spacer (Y)
Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each Note: cut design in Front only. Left pattern piece.
Spacer (Y)
#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Side (X)
#P574 - Pendulum Clock 15H. Order Movement #C131 & Hands #C137 or #C138
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
F I
#P574 - The Eagle Black Forest Clock Description Item Qty Front & Back A 1 ea Roof B 6 Gable C 2 Gable Underlay D 2 Side Overlay E 2 Bottom Overlay F 1 Side G 2 Dial H 1 1 Bottom I 1 Eagle J Leaf Overlay K 2 Pendulum L 1 Door M 1 Leaf N 2 Size 1/4T x 6W x 10 7/8L 1/4T x 2W x 5L 1/4T x 2 3/8W x 7L 1/4T x 1 5/8W x 5 7/8L 1/4T x 2W x 7 1/4L 1/4T x 2 1/8W x 5 3/8L 1/4T x 3 1/2W x 7 3/4L 1/8T x 5 1/2W 5 1/2L 1/4T x 3 1/2W x 5 1/2L 1/16 - 1/8T x 5W x 8 3/4L 1/16 - 1/8T x 4 3/4W x 8 1/2L 1/16 - 1/8T x 4W x 11 1/8L 1/16 - 1/8T x 2 1/2W x 5L 1/8T x 4 1/8W x 5 1/8L
f oo
(B
Ro
of
o Ro
f oo
(B
Side (G)
Dashed line indicates Dial (H). Drill 5/16 hole for clock shaft.
Note: Cut a 4 diameter hole in the Back. This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.
#P574
Bottom (I)
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Side (G)
Roof (B)
Stock: 1/4, cut 6 Back (A)
Top
Front (A)
Front
f oo
(B
Outside edge
o Ro
f(
B)
f oo
(B
Gable (C)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2
#P574
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Side (G)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2
Bottom (I)
#P574
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Stock: 1/4
Front
Dial (H)
Stock: 1/8 Drill 5/16 hole for clock shaft.
le Ea g
#P574
St oc
k:
1/
16 ) -
(J
1/
#P574
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Door (M)
Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin
Pattern overlap line 1/8 1/4 1/4
Pendulum Hook
Pendulum (L)
Stock: 1/8. Top pattern piece.
1/4 side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement. Clock movement Hook
Leaf (N)
Stock: 1/8, cut 2
Pendulum (L)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8. Bottom pattern piece.
#P574
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001