TO MAKE A

An instructionally informative document by Enoctis

 TABLE OF CONTENTS
I. Material Selection ................................................................................pg. 3
1. PVC............................................................................................pg. 3
2. ABS............................................................................................pg. 3
3. Aluminum ..................................................................................pg. 4
4. Carbon Steel Pipe.......................................................................pg. 4
II. Spudgun Construction.........................................................................pg. 4
1. PVC Components.......................................................................pg. 4
2. Additional Components .............................................................pg. 5
3. Required Equipment ..................................................................pg. 5
4. Spudgun Dimensions .................................................................pg. 5
5. Chamber to Barrel Ratio ............................................................pg. 5
6. Calculating Dimensions .............................................................pg. 5
7. PVC Melding .............................................................................pg. 6
8. Installing Ignition Source...........................................................pg. 6
a. Spark Gap Prongs ..........................................................pg. 6
b. Igniter Enclosure............................................................pg. 7
c. Connecting Igniter to Spark Gap Prong.........................pg. 7
9. Protecting the Chamber..............................................................pg. 7
III. Barrel Tapering....................................................................................pg. 7
IV. Potato Selection ....................................................................................pg. 8
V. Firing the Cannon ................................................................................pg. 9
1. Fuel to Air Mixture ....................................................................pg. 9
2. Misfire Occurs ...........................................................................pg. 9
3. Flame Out.................................................................................pg. 10
VI. Spudgun Improvements ....................................................................pg. 10
1. Barrel Rifling ...........................................................................pg. 10
2. Interchangeable Barrels ...........................................................pg. 10
3. Chamber Fans ..........................................................................pg. 10
4. Metered Fuel Injectors .............................................................pg. 10
5. Electronic Igniters....................................................................pg. 10
6. Dual Ignition ............................................................................pg. 11
7. Pressure Gages .........................................................................pg. 11
8. Blow-off Valves.......................................................................pg. 11
VII. Legality of a Spudgun........................................................................pg. 11

2
I. MATERIAL SELECTION
WARNING: Section 921(a)(3) of Title 18, United States Code (USC) states that if you construct a
spudgun with any material aside of PVC, it becomes a firearm (or destructive device) and must
be “registered in accordance with the provisions of the National Firearms Act”.

The type of material used in the construction of a spudgun is of utmost importance. The
reasoning is not all materials will withstand the internal combustion and may explode
during a spud launch. Other materials will get hot and cool slowly. Use the following
data to choose what material will best suit your launcher.

1. PVC – Polyvinyl Chloride

The Good
• Low cost with many dimensions available (fittings cost more)
• Pressure rated
• Moderately light-weight

The Bad
• Chemical resistance issues: Aldehyde and Ketone dissolve PVC glue
• Avoid following propellants:
- Products containing Acetone
- Products containing ‘THF’
- Products containing ‘MEK’
- Carburetor or Part cleaners
- Insect repellants

Notes
• Use SCH 40 (or higher) pipe
• Do not purchase PVC without PSI (pressure rating) listed on side
• Fittings are not pressure rated, but are structurally superior to bulk pipe

2. ABS – Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene
The Good
• Low cost with many dimensions available (fittings cost more)
• More sturdy than most PVC
• Chemical resistance allows a vast variety of propellants
• Light-weight allowing larger, hand-held, spudguns

The Bad
• Not pressure rated; though a tried and proven material
• Splinters into thousands of high-velocity shards when rupture occurs
• Upon rupture, poses high health risk due to punctures and lacerations

Notes
• Be attentive to the chamber to barrel ratio to minimize the risk of rupture
• Propellants usually create caustic gases (inhalation hazard)

3
 3. Aluminum (T6061) – Al; chemical compound
The Good
• Inexpensive bulk pipe
• Very sturdy
• Easy to machine custom parts

The Bad
• Heat conduction & radiation; does not remain cool like PVC or ABS
• Fittings are hard to find and expensive to machine

Notes
• Threaded pipe is not easily obtained; use pressure fittings

4. Carbon Steel Pipe – Fe; chemical compound

The Good
• Relatively inexpensive (though costs more than plastic)
• Extremely sturdy

The Bad
• Heat conduction & radiation; does not remain cool like PVC or ABS
• Rugged material; high friction between potato and barrel
• Very heavy

Notes
• Use a honing tool to polish the inside of the barrel to reduce friction

II. SPUDGUN CONSTRUCTION

Spudguns, in their most basic form, are comprised of a chamber, a barrel and a spark
igniter. More advanced cannons may include additional features and components such as
rifling, interchangeable barrels, chamber fans, metered fuel injectors, electronic igniters,
dual ignition, pressure gages, blow-off valves, etc. This document will cover only basic
construction using PVC, though the above improvements will be explained. (see section VI)

1. PVC Components (see above, 1 each)

A Threaded cap
B Cap receiver
C Sleeve
D Chamber
E Reducer
F Barrel

4
2. Additional Components
• Screw/Band clamps (2)
• 3” pan-head machine screws w/ nuts (3)
• Grill spark igniter (w/ side burner)
• PVC pipe just large enough to house the main body of the chosen grill igniter
• Cap for the above pipe

3. Required Equipment
• PVC Primer
• PVC Cement
• Hacksaw
• Drill
• Drill bit (size of machine screws)
• Screwdriver
• Electrical tape

4. Spudgun Dimensions
Depending on the type of ammo and propellant to be used, a spudgun will vary in
dimension. These variations would be determined on a trial and error basis considering
there isn’t data available at present to calculate the divergence. With this said, the
dimensions described in this document will be tailored for a typical cannon using ether as
the propellant and potatoes as the ammo.

5. Chamber to Barrel Ratio (CB ratio)

The combustion chamber on any spudgun should have greater volume than the barrel. A
1:1 CB ratio will fire, but is less-than-impressive. You may find works that claim the
“optimal ratio” is x, but that data is unreliable. Again, depending on the construction
material used, propellant and ammo, the ratio will vary. Some propellants have a greater
expansion rate than others, and some projectiles just incur more friction.

6. Calculating Dimensions
The typical high-power cannon is made with a 1.5:1 CB. This means that the chamber
volume is 1.5x greater than the barrel volume. The formula to calculate the volume of a
given pipe is as follows:

v = πr²h (volume = pi * radius squared * height)

Example
• The chamber is 4” x 14”; radius is half the diameter: 2” (2 squared = 4)
• The chamber volume is: 3.14 * 4 * 14 = 175.84 cubic inches
• For a 1.5:1 CB ratio, the barrel volume needs to be ≈117.23 (175.84 / 1.5)
• Supposing a 2” barrel is used, the radius is 1” 1 squared is 1
• So, the problem is: 117.23 = 3.14 * 1 * ?
• 117.23 / (3.14 * 1) = ? (3.14 * 1 = 3.14)
• 117.23 / 3.14 = 37.33; the barrel should be 37.33 inches in length

5
Since tubing diameters are set by the manufacturer you can only adjust the length. Use
the aforementioned example to calculate how long to cut the tubing; whether it be for the
chamber or the barrel. If you want to calculate the chamber length simply multiply your
answer from step 2 by 1.5 instead of dividing.

7. PVC Melding (gluing)

Most people believe that PVC is glued or cemented together. In fact, it is melded.
“Melding” is a combination of the words melting and welding. The cement actually melts
the PVC pieces together, forming a weld-type bond.

When complete, the cement may be dry, but the melding process is not complete. Curing
is the process where the PVC fully returns to its original chemical state. It’s imperative
that you allow at least 24 hours for the bonds to cure before firing your cannon. Failing to
do so can result in serious injury.

1. Remove all rough edges, dirt, oils, moisture, etc. from the pieces to be melded.
2. Ensure that the pieces fit together with minimal pressure. They may not “bottom
out” together, but should go most of the way. If they fit loosely replace them!
3. Apply the primer to both pieces on the surfaces that will contact one another.
4. Immediately and liberally apply the cement to the same areas as the previous step.
5. Quickly fit the pieces together with a 1/4 twist to ensure maximum contact and
hold for about 30 seconds.
6. Allow roughly 5 minutes for the cement to dry.
7. A minimum of 24 hours is required for the meld to cure. Do not fire before the
curing process has completed!

8. Installing Ignition Source

Once all of the pieces have been melded together, but not necessarily before they’re
cured, it’s time to install the grill sparker. Never install the igniter directly into the
combustion chamber as it could be ejected during ignition and cause injury!

a. Spark-Gap Prongs
1. Locate the center of the combustion chamber (length-wise) and drill a hole using
the drill bit from the “required equipment” list.
2. Drill another hole 90º from the hole in the previous step. This does not have to be
exactly 90º, but should be centered as the other one. The easiest way to
accomplish the angle is to rotate the cannon so that the first hole is situated on the
side. Now, drill the second hole on the top. This gives you roughly a 90º
separation.
3. Place a screw in each hole and screw them in until they have between 1/8” and
3/8” gap between them. Each screw should be inserted the same depth.
4. Measure the distance from the pipe to the bottom of the screw head.
5. Remove the screws, put the nuts on them further than the above measurement. If
you do not do this you’ll have an incredibly hard time with step 7.
6. Use the hacksaw to cut off the measured amount of the screw from step 4. This
cut is made from the ends opposite the screw heads.

6
 7. Remove the nuts from the screws and place them partially back into the holes in
the chamber. Place the nuts on the screws from the inside of the chamber.

b. Igniter Enclosure
1. Use the drill bit to drill a hole in the small cap from the “additional components”
list. This hole should be drilled to one side of the end/top of the small cap.
2. The sparker/igniter should have 2 wires coming from it. Cut off the connectors
from the other end of these wires (opposite the sparker).
3. Wrap the wires around the screwdriver to make them appear like a spring.
4. Cut the pipe from the “additional components” list to roughly 1/2 the length of the
chamber. The desired measurement is ultimately up to the user.
5. Feed the wires from the igniter through the pipe mentioned above while trying to
maintain the spring-like shape created in step 3.
6. Place a few wraps of electrical tape around the body of the igniter to make it fit
snuggly into the pipe. The collar of the igniter should now be flush with the pipe.
7. Feed the wires through the hole you drilled in the cap in step 1, and place the cap
on the pipe. This step does not require primer or cement.
8. Position the igniter enclosure between the screws installed in the “spark-gap
prongs” section (II-8.a), and with the collar of the igniter just over the slope of the
reducer.
9. With the hole in the cap facing the chamber, use the screw/band clamps to secure
the igniter enclosure to the chamber.

c. Connecting Igniter to the Spark Gap-Prongs

1. Pull out just enough wire from the cap to reach the screws.
2. Strip the ends of the wires and wrap one around each screw.
3. Tighten the screws until the screw head meets the chamber and the wires are
secured against the side of the chamber. Ensure there is still a 1/8” to 3/8” gap
between the spark-gap prongs inside the chamber, otherwise spark will not occur.
4. Tighten the nuts inside the chamber.

9. Protecting the Chamber

Many enthusiasts prevent their ammo from entering the chamber by making marks or
installing stoppers on their ramrod (the tool for loading the ammo). A better method is to
install a stopper in the barrel itself. This is where the 3rd screw from the “additional
components” list comes into play.

1. Drill a hole all the way through the barrel (centered) approximately 1/4” from the
reducer.
2. Insert the final screw from the “additional components” list and tighten the nut.
3. Use the hacksaw to cut off the excess screw.

III. BARREL TAPERING

Arguably, the best method for inserting a spud into a launcher is by tapering the end of
the barrel on the outside. With a tapered barrel, the excess potato will be ‘sliced’ off
during the loading process, which includes a twisting motion.

7
By cutting (or grinding) out notches from the tapered edge, the excess potato will be
removed more easily. This serration is obviously superior to a smooth-tapered barrel
because you’re almost surely never going to end up with a ‘razor sharp’ edge. Also, the
serration will allow you to keep a thicker edge on your barrel thereby retaining structural
integrity in addition to increased safety from possible lacerations.

There have been posts on the internet stating that one should taper the barrel on the inside
rather than the outside. The theory behind this is that the potato will be somewhat
compressed as it is loaded, thereby creating increased pressure buildup during launch. It
is crucial to note that using this taper method will cause a considerable increase in the
friction between the barrel and the potato. That being said, if you choose this taper
method you will need to adjust your chamber to barrel ratio accordingly.

For example, in a test of the above theory on a launcher utilizing a 1.5:1 chamber-
to-barrel ratio with a chamber of 4”x14” and a barrel of 2”x37”:

With outside tapering the spud launched, on average, approximately 200 meters,
whereas with inside tapering the distance was reduced to approximately 75 meters.

By slightly tapering the barrel to the inside one can get a better seal. Again, there should
be very little inside taper as to minimize unnecessary friction.

IV. POTATO SELECTION

WARNING: Section 921(a)(3) of Title 18, United States Code (USC) states that if you load a
spudgun with anything other than potatoes, it becomes a firearm (or destructive device) and must
be “registered in accordance with the provisions of the National Firearms Act”.

As stated before, your choice of ammunition is key to the construction of a spudgun. The
reason this decision is so pertinent is because different materials incur varying amounts
of friction when launched. This document only covers potatoes as they are legal and the
most cost-effective projectile.

It is critical to an impressive launch that you get a good seal between the potato and the
barrel. If the seal is not air-tight then the gases from the thermal combustion will escape
around the projectile rather than pushing it, thereby reducing the ejection velocity.
Adversely, if the seal is overly tight then the potato will incur too much friction and eject
poorly.

After testing various types of potatoes it has been decided that the best type for launching
are the medium-sized spuds. The smaller potatoes are often too small, thereby giving the
user fewer potatoes to launch per sack. The larger potatoes simply do not launch well;
this has been attributed to problems with structural cohesion. In other words, the potato
doesn’t hold its shape during ejection, which allows gases to escape.

8
When choosing a sack of potatoes for ammo, get only the firmest potatoes you can find.
This ensures that the potato will maintain its shape and eject in a satisfactory manner.

V. FIRING THE CANNON

The most commonly used propellant is hairspray. This is a terrible choice because of the
residue left behind, which gums up the chamber and other components. The threads on
the cap will become “glued” shut and/or the spark-gap prongs will cease to fire.

A much more efficient fuel is ether. Ether can be found in the form of “Starting Fluid” at
any hardware/garden store. Starting fluid is almost purely ether, and burns extremely
clean; producing very little residue. In addition to the benefits of a clean-burning fuel,
ether is also extremely combustible. Ether is heavier than air, so when loading a chamber
with it the barrel should be pointing at a downward angle.

1. Fuel to Air Mixture

Fuel, in liquid form, is not flammable; never has been, never will be. The fumes/gases
produced by these liquids, however, are quite flammable. A fuel to air mixture that is too
rich is the most common cause of a misfire with combustion cannons.

A proper fuel to air ratio is .02-.08:1. In percentages this is between 2% and 8% fuel
vapor. Very little vapor is required, therefore, a propellant that evaporates quickly is
going to give you the quickest result. For this very same reason, rapidly evaporating
propellants will over-saturate a chamber very easily as well.

The exact amount of starting fluid to spray is hard to determine. However, if you press
and release the spray button as quickly as you possibly can you’ll get about 1/2 the
amount of fuel you need for a 4” x 14” chamber. This is, of course, with a new can of
starting fluid. As the aerosol diminishes a slightly longer press will be necessary.

1. Loosen (but do not remove) the threaded cap on the chamber.

2. Insert the spud into the barrel with a twisting motion to remove the excess. If you
have gaps between the spud and the bore of the barrel you will get poor results.
3. Use any type of ramrod to shove the spud into the barrel until it bottoms out.
4. Ensure the barrel is facing downward. Remove the threaded cap and load the
chamber with a quick spray of ether (or other propellant).
5. Replace the threaded cap. There is no need to be extremely fast.
6. Place the chamber at your side and aim the barrel in a safe direction. Never place
the chamber next to your head; otherwise, in the event of a rupture you could die!
7. Press the plunger on the igniter and BOOM!

2. Misfire Occurs
In the event of a misfire try pushing the igniter several more times. If it still fails to
launch, aim the barrel towards the ground and remove the threaded cap for roughly 2
seconds. Replace the cap and try again.

9
3. Flame Out
If you still fail to get an ignition, perform what is called a “flame out”.

1. Remove the threaded cap

2. Point the chamber towards the ground (barrel towards the sky).
3. Rapidly press the igniter several times.
• Flame from chamber: too much fuel was used (more than 8% fuel to air mixture).
• No flame: too little fuel was used (less than 2% fuel to air mixture).
4. Reload the chamber with fuel and try again.

VI. SPUDGUN IMPROVEMENTS

As mentioned above, this document outlines a basic combustion cannon, also known as a
spudgun. The following are improvements, and although they do not include step-by-step
instructions, the user’s ingenuity is required; this is what makes any spudgun unique.

1. Barrel Rifling
Rifling means that gradually twisting grooves are cut into the bore of the barrel. By
ordering (or making) rifled barrels the accuracy and distance of launched spuds will be
increased. Be careful when rifling your own barrels; if the grooves are cut too deep the
combustion efficiency, as well as the structural integrity, of the barrel will be negatively
affected.

2. Interchangeable Barrels
By utilizing threaded end pieces between the chamber and the barrel, multiple barrels can
be used with the same chamber. This improvement also allows the launcher to be
disassembled for easier transport and storage.

3. Chamber Fans
These are fans that circulate the air inside the chamber. This is especially useful when
using larger chambers because the fuel may not mix well, thereby creating dead-spots
inside the chamber where combustion pressure is lost.

4. Metered Fuel Injectors

Measured amounts of fuel can be used with these devices. They’re almost always made
from scratch by the user, and are the most effective way to ensure you get the proper fuel
to air mixture every time. Trial and error is required initially, but once the ratio is found,
metered fuel injectors eliminate misfires almost completely.

5. Electronic Igniters
Electric igniters require the user to push a plunger to generate a spark. Electronic igniters,
however, create a rapid sequence of sparks. This is more of a lazy man’s improvement as
opposed to an efficiency improving measure.

10
6. Dual Ignition
Having two ignition sources inside the chamber creates a better environment for
combustion to occur. Furthermore, it allows an even distribution of ignition, which
creates a faster combustion. This ensures that all the fuel is combusts simultaneously,
thereby creating a greater expulsion force.

7. Pressure Gages
A pressure gage will give the user feedback about the efficiency of the propellant they’re
using in conjunction with their projectile. With a trial and error method, this could lead to
better launches. Also, pressure gages can be used as a safety measure.

8. Blow-off Valves
Purely a safety precaution. Basically, this device is a spring-loaded valve that opens when
a certain PSI is reached allowing pressure to escape as long as the chamber pressure
exceeds the valves pressure limit. Obviously, this will prevent a rupture, and possibly
save your life!

VII. LEGALITY OF A SPUDGUN

The information below is an excerpt from a letter in response to an inquiry by the owner
of http://www.SpudTech.com about the legality of a spudgun. Again, this was not sent
directly to me, it is only being cited in this document.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Department of the Treasury
Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Washington, DC 20226

As defined in section 921(a) (3) of Title 18, United States Code (USC) the term "firearm"
means --

(A) any weapon (including a starter gun) which will or is designed to or may readily be
converted to expel a projectile by the action of an explosive;
(B) the frame or receiver of any such weapon;
(C) any firearm muffler or firearm silencer; or
(D) any destructive device. Such term does not include an antique firearm.

As defined in 26 USC subsection 5845(f) (2) the term destructive device includes any
type of weapon by whatever name known which will, or which may readily be converted
to, expel a projectile by the action of an explosive or other propellant, the barrel or barrels
of which have a bore of more than one-half inch in diameter, except a shotgun or shotgun
shell which the Secretary or his delegate finds is generally recognized as particularly
suitable for sporting purposes; and (3) any combination of parts either designed or
intended for use in converting any device into a destructive device as defined in
subparagraphs (1) and (2) and from which a destructive device may be readily assembled.
The term 'destructive device' shall not include any device which is neither designed nor
redesigned for use as a weapon; any device, although originally designed for use as a
weapon, which is redesigned for use as a signaling, pyrotechnic, line throwing, safety, or

11
similar device; surplus ordnance sold, loaned, or given by the Secretary of the Army
pursuant to the provisions of section 4684(2), 4685, or 4686 of title 10 of the USC; or any
other device which the Secretary of the Treasury or his delegate finds is not likely to be
used as a weapon, or is an antique or is a rifle which the owner intends to use solely for
sporting purposes.

It is unlawful for anyone to make or possess a destructive device which is not registered
in accordance with the provisions of the National Firearms Act.

We have previously examined that certain muzzle loading devices known as "potato
guns." These potato guns are constructed from PVC plastic tubing. They use hair spray or
a similar aerosol substance for a propellant, and have some type of spark ignitor. We
have determined that these devices, as described, are not firearms provided that they are
used solely for launching potatoes for recreational purposes. However, any such devices
which are used as weapons or used to launch other forms of projectiles may be firearms
and destructive devices as defined.

Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms

Firearms Technology Branch, Room 6450
650 Massachusetts Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20226

Sincerely Yours,

(signature)

Curtis H. A. Bartlett
Acting Chief, Firearms Technology Branch
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

12