Drafting the Basic Skirt

By: gedwoods http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/drafting-the-basic-skirt

Along with the drafting blocks for a bodice (http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/constructing-the-basic-bodice-block), dress (http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/drafting-a-princess-line-dress-pattern-from-the-basic-bodice-block), and trousers (http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/constructing-the-basic-trouser-block), a block for a skirt represents a rather straightforward use of the approach, as the adjustments for different measurements are relatively simple. Of course, once a basic skirt shape has been found, a vast variety of variations can be constructed. Step 1 Drafting the waist line

You'll need your hip measurement for this. Draw a line from A to B whose length is one half (1/2) your hip measurement plus 1,5 cm (3/5 inch). Within the instructions, all new lines are shown with a thick red line. However, this line is actually a construction line and should be made relatively thin - I shall indicate which lines are final edges and which are construction lines as we go along. . Step 2 Drafting the Center Back Seam

The next line from A to C is the Center Back seam - it needs to be the total length of the skirt (minus the waist band) you are planning to make, and it needs to be at right angles (90 degrees) from the horizontal line A to B. This is an edge line and should be drawn in thicker than the construction lines. Step 3 Drafting the Center Front Seam

Now we need to "square down" from point B the length of the skirt to point D. Again, this is a block edge and should be drawn thicker. Step 4 Drafting the Hem Line

Now, for the basic "frame" of the skirt, it remains to connect points C and D, thus forming the Hem Line at the bottom of the skirt. This is again a block edge and needs a thicker line. Step 5 Drafting the Hip Line

Measure from the Waist Line (from A to E and from B to F) the waist-to-hip measurement and connect E to F. This is the Hip Line - it is another construction line (albeit one that you will preserve through later manipulations) and therefore can be drawn in more thinly. Step 6 Drafting the Side Seam

Now measure from E along the Hip Line, one quarter of the Hip Measurement plus 1,5 cm (3/5 inch) and mark off the point G, then square down to the Hem Line at H. This is a block edge and is drawn with a thick line. This line separates the FRONT panel from the BACK panel. Step 7 Drafting the Back Waist Line - 1

Measure one quarter of the waist measurement along the Waist Line (from A along towards B) and add 4,25 cm (1 and 2/3 inches) - mark off this point (I) and measure 1,25 cm (1/2 inch) straight up and mark off point J. If your waist is more than 30 cm (12 inches) smaller than your hip measurement, you should add 5,25 cm (2 and 1/8 inches) rather than 4,25 cm (1 and 2/3 inches). Step 8 Drafting the Back Waist Line - 2

Now connect the points G and J and the points A and J - these are both construction lines and should be drawn in thinly. Step 9 Drafting the Back Waist Line - 3

Divide the line A to J into three equal pieces. Locate the first point K (one third the distance from A to J) and draw a line at right angles from the A to J line, 14 cm (5 and 1/2 inches) long to point L. This is a construction line and should be drawn in thinly. Step 10 Drafting the Back Waist Line - 4

The darts are 2 cm wide (4/5 inch) at the top (hence 1 cm or 2/5 inch on each side), and are block edges and should be drawn in more thickly. If your waist is more than 30 cm (12 inches) smaller than your hips, then increase the dart width to 2,5 cm (1 inch) at the top. Step 11 Drafting the Back Waist Line - 5

Locate the point at which the second dart begins (point M) - 2/3 of the way between A and J, and draw a new line at right angles to the line linking A to J, this one 12,5 cm (4 and 7/8 inches) long to point N. This is a construction line and hence thin. Step 12 Drafting the Back Waist Line - 6

Finish the second dart (2 cm or 4/5 inch wide at the top, 12,5 cm or 4 and 7/8 inches long). If your waist is more than 30 cm (12 inches) smaller than your hips, then increase the dart width to 2,5 cm (1 inch) at the top. Step 13 Finishing the Back Waist Line

Finish the waist line by curving downwards slightly between A and K, K and M and M and J. These are block edges and should be draw in fairly thickly. Step 14 Finishing the Back Side Seam

Connect the points G and J with an outward curve that deviates 0,5 cm (1/5 inch) at maximum from the straight construction line between G and J. This is a block edge and should be drawn in more thickly. Step 15 Drafting the Front Waist Line - 1

Measure one quarter of the waist measurement from B towards A and add 2,25 cm (7/8 inch), mark the point (P) and draw a construction line straight upwards 1,25 cm (1/2 inch) and mark the point Q. If your waist is more than 30 cm (12 inches) smaller than your hips, then add 2,75 cm (1 and 1/8 inches) rather than 2,25 cm (7/8 inch). Step 16 Drafting the Front Waist Line - 2

Connect the points G and Q and the points B and Q with straight construction lines (thin lines). Step 17 Drafting the Front Waist Line - 3

Measure one third of the distance from point Q towards point B and mark the point (R), then draw a line at right angles downwards from the line connecting Q and B. The length of the this construction line is 10 cm (4 inches). Step 18 Drafting the Front Waist Line - 4

Draw in the dart with a width of 2 cm (4/5 inch) at the top (1 cm or 2/5 inch on either side of the point R) and the point S 10 cm (4 inches) down. The dart lines are block edges and should be drawn in thickly. If your waist is more than 30 cm (12 inches) smaller than your hips, then increase the dart width to 2,5 cm (1 inch) at the top. Step 19 Finishing the Front Side Seam

Connect the points G and Q with a curved line that deviates a maximum of 0,5 cm (1/5 inch) from the straight construction line linking G to Q. This is a block edge and shown be drawn in more thickly. Step 20 Finishing the Front Waist Line

Finish the waist line by bending the line between Q and R and between R and B downwards slightly and then back up. Step 21 Finish the outer block edges

Either erase the non essential construction lines or draw in the block edges more heavily. Step 22 Separate the two panels

Finally, normally you would separate the two panels (although this depends on the subsequent design changes you end up adopting). I normally cut the two panels out and separate them directly, in preparation for additional manipulations. Note that the finished block does not include seam allowances, which must be added before this is a workable pattern.

Drafting the Basic Skirt