Flavour 2010-09

james
martin
the chef
who changed
saturday
morning
tV
Organic
Food
Festival
Our official show guide
inside this issue!
WIN!
A champagne meal
for two at Ronnies
Restaurant!
Bristol, Bath & South West | Issue 31 | September 2010 3 (Where sold)
flavour
for people who love local food
www.flavourmagazine.com
food
from plenty
Diana Henry on the
art of frugal feasts
Proud media partners of
01 Cover and spine:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:02 Page 1
The Catherine Wheel
39 High St, Marshfield, nr Bath,
Wilts SN14 8LR
Tel: 01225 892220
Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk
Email: roo@thecatherinewheel.co.uk
EVENING
25.00 for 3 courses
(pre-booked)
LUNCHTIME
18.00 for 3 courses
(reduced menu available)
Crackers included!
Menu available throughout
December, excluding
Christmas Day and Boxing Day
MARSHFIELD MUMMERS
Monday 27th
December 11am
C
h
r
istm
a
s 2
0
1
0
m
e
n
u

Starters
Parsnip & pear soup with parsnip & beetroot crisps
Salm
on & prawn roulade with dill & horseradish
crm
e fraiche
Chicken liver pate topped with walnut butter,
served with pum
pkin seed toast
Peppered duck breast salad with spicy plum
s
Hom
e sm
oked pheasant breast salad
with honey & beetroot dressing
Goats cheese & cranberries
wrapped in lo pastry, deep fried
Main Courses
Turkey with cranberry & thym
e stufng
on a pork & apricot sausage served
with a light red wine gravy
Fillet of beef with celeriac & horseradish puree,
celeriac chips &
a red wine shallot sauce (add 2.50)
Loin of venison with braised celery,
potato galette and m
orel m
ushroom
s
Roast butternut squash risotto with parm
esan shavings
Roast chicken breast with cabbage & crispy pancetta
Coriander spiced sea bass llets
served with a tom
ato & walnut salad
Puddings
Christm
as pudding with brandy sauce
Sticky cranberry steam
ed pudding with crm
e anglais
Chocolate & ginger cheesecake
Pears & gs in spiced wine with cinnam
on cream
Cherry frangipane tart with vanilla ice cream
Selection of Marsheld ice cream
s
Selection of west country cheese & biscuits
Tea, Coffee & m
ints
02 Catherine Wheel ad:P.52 4/9/10 15:06 Page 2
Please recycle this product.
6 In Season
Tom Bowles and Stuart Ash
bring you the best of the
season's produce
4 WIN!
A champagne meal for two at
Ronnie's Restaurant!
12 James Martin
The chef who changed
Saturday morning TV
20 Food From Plenty
Diany Henry on the art of
frugal feasts
34 Bistrot Coco
A corner of France in the heart
of Cheltenham
12
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take part in any publicity material relating to the
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is final and no correspondence will be entered into.
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20
contents
Editor:
Holly Aurelius-Haddock
Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com
Editorial Assistant:
Faye Allen
Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com
Art Director:
Chris Jones
Email: design@flavourmagazine.com
Advertising:
Miranda Coller, Director of Sales
Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com
Kate Gardner
Email: kate@flavourmagazine.com
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Email: debbie@flavourmagazine.com
Photography:
Misha Gupta, Daniel Hewison, James Walker
Contributors:
Stuart Ash, Martin Blunos, Sin Blunos, Tom
Bowles, Nathan Budd, Helen Aurelius-Haddock,
Sarah Hurn, Rebecca Gooch, Duncan Shine, Ron
Faulkner, Clare Morris and Rebecca Sullivan.
Flavour Magazine
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flavourmagazine.com
Welcome to the
September issue
of flavour!
If the fly-on-the-wall documentary that
followed Vogues formidable Editor-in-Chief
is to be believed, putting together the
September issue is not an undertaking for
the faint hearted.
Predicting key autumn trends renders it
one of the most important issues of the
year within the industry, and by extension,
one of the bulkiest. Having produced the
official Organic Food Festival show guide
which features as a supplement this month,
I can confidently say that flavour has, for
one month only, something in common with
the worlds best-known fashion magazine!
Bristols Organic Food Festival is one of the
largest events of its kind in Europe and
celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, a
year that promises to be the most exciting
to date. In our own celebration of all things
green, weve been down to Rod and Bens
farm in Exeter (PAGE 28), finding out the
truth behind raw organic milk (PAGE 47)
and unearthing some of the New Worlds
leading lights in organic and biodynamic
wine production (PAGE 48).
We hope you enjoy reading this issue and
the show guide as much as weve enjoyed
making them.
Happy Eating!
welcome
Contents:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:50 Page 3
4
> flavour news
this month
If you have any news or events
that you would like to share with
us here at flavour then email
enquiries@flavourmagazine.com
A ROYAL VISIT
The Prince of Wales
is embarking on an
eco-friendly tour of
the UK to promote
sustainable living
by visiting various
green projects
around Britain.
HRH will be promoting the START initiative
in Bristol, joining shoppers around a
special eco-living exhibition in Cabot Circus
and meeting community groups including
the Bristol Cycle group. Hell arrive on the
royal train, which in keeping with the ethos
of the tour, runs entirely on bio-fuel.
VICTORY FOR RONNIES!
Crowds gathered recently at St Nicks Market to watch flavours resident chef Ron
Faulkner (pictured right) go head to head with Berwick Lodges Johnny Evans in a
new Channel 5 programme called Street Market Chefs, due to air this month.
Under the watchful eyes of the public and a panel of tasting judges, the two
competing chefs prepared a two-course menu of local and seasonal fare in the
hope of taking home the title. On eventually being crowned the winner, Ron
Faulkner said: I was delighted, not only for myself but for the whole team as its a
positive reflection on them too theres a real sense of pride whenever we get a
good review or win an award like this.
To celebrate their victory and their 3rd birthday, Ronnies are offering one lucky
flavour reader the chance to WIN a Champagne dinner for two. To enter, simply
email: competitions@flavourmagazine.comstating your name, address, phone
number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!
www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
WINNERS
TIGHTEN YOUR BELTS
Economists have warned that food price
inflation could hit 9% by the end of the year.
It is believed that recent rises of more than
12% of basic commodities such as wheat
up by 60% in the past 3 months will be
passed on to consumers by the autumn.
Over the past year, food prices have gone
up by 3%, with prices of potatoes, onions
and cauliflowers recording the sharpest
rises. High wheat prices caused by poor
Russian and Canadian harvests are also
expected to push up the cost of meat, dairy
products and bread.
Congratulations to Susan
Burton from Bristol who has
won a pair of tickets to Love
Cooking festival!
Congratulations to Caroline Ross
from Corsham who has won an
overnight stay for two at the
Crowne Plaza Hotel in Marlow!
04-05 News:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:09 Page 4
CHUTFEST
A celebration of all things
preserved! Swap your homemade
chutneys with fellow enthusiasts
and taste the delights of
Barrington Courts annual food
fair. Visitors can also get in a
pickle and enter their
concoctions into a competition to
win a day with award-winning
chutney makers Tracklements.
This years Chutfest takes place
on 2 and 3 October.
www.nationaltrust.org.uk
SUCK OR CRUNCH?
Britain might like to think of itself as the nation
that invented good manners, but according to
a new study, weve shed our traditional stiff
upper lip and become a sensual food nation.
A third of Brits admit forgoing cutlery and
eating food with their fingers and one in six
of us even lick the plate! Researchers also
say the way we eat sweets also reveals
our character suckers are strategic
and calm, whereas crunchers are
impulsive and competitive.
5
> flavour news
DELMONICO
Bristol's stylish venue Delmonico is gearing
up for winter parties with its elegant private
dining room, offering complete privacy for
up to 30 guests. Chef Tyrone Tippins and his
team are constantly changing the menus to
move with the seasons, based on fresh
ingredients prepared simply.
The small, expertly selected wine list
includes classic French wines and
champagne, as well as more unusual
bottles from around the world. The list acts
as the perfect complement to the array of
Anglo-French cuisine on offer, as well as
some more contemporary flavours with
American, Asian and Italian influences.
01179 445673
www.delmonico.co.uk
WIN! A YEARS SUPPLY
OF ORGANIC EGGS!
Promising eggs on your plate within 24
hours and conforming to the highest
Soil Association standards, family-run
organic company Eggsilicious are fast
becoming a household name. Egg
lovers will be glad to know that the
Wiltshire farm is not only home to
happy, free-roaming hens, but also
sources quail, duck and goose eggs
too!
To WIN a dozen organic eggs every
month for a year, simply email:
competitions@flavourmagazine.com
stating your name, address, phone
number and where you got your copy of
the magazine. Good luck!
www.eggsilicious.co.uk
04-05 News:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:09 Page 5
POACHED PEARS WITH RED WINE,
ORANGE AND CINNAMON
Serves 4
Place 200g granulated sugar, pint of
water and pint of red wine into a pan and
stir to the boil. When the liquid reaches
boiling point, add the juice of half a lemon,
zest of one orange, 1 clove and 1 cinnamon
stick. Allow to infuse for 10 minutes on a
low heat. Peel 4 pears and put them into a
liquid cover with a paper cartouche and
cook on a low heat until the pears are just
cooked. Allow them to cool in the liqueur.
To serve, core and slice the pears into four
lengthways. Serve with ice-cream, or
reduce the liqueur to make a sauce.
6
> flavour in season
>Sweetcorn
Sweetcorn falls into the category of one
of those things that when you eat it fresh
from the cob, nothing else will do. Tinned
sweetcorn is very handy but could never
match up to a boiled and grilled cob
smothered with butter and black pepper.
Sweetcorn is a form of maize which has
become very popular here in the UK,
stemming from Aztec backgrounds. It is
harvested fairly young to make sure the
kernels are sweet and tender but once
harvested quickly deteriorates losing its
sweetness, very much like peas. If you
can, buy sweetcorn with the husks still
on as this indicates freshness. This
should be green and firm and the kernels
should be firm and tightly packed. Make
sure you eat them quickly to savour their
sweetness.
>Pears
The English pear is a real autumnal treat. Our most
popular is the tender and juicy Conference variety
which is said to take up ninety per cent of pear
production in the UK. Other varieties include
Williams, Comice, Concorde and Worcester Black.
They are usually picked just under ripe to develop
after but they must be eaten ripe as that is the only
way you can truly enjoy a pear. They do turn to
mush very quickly however so keep a close eye on
it! Look for undamaged, slightly firmer pears
with russeting on the surface. When ripe it
should be mellow and beautifully scented with
a subtly granular texture and when you bite
into it should cover you in juice.
At their
best right now
CORN ON THE COB WITH THAI INFUSION
Serves 4
Remove all the tough outer leaves of
2 lemongrass as well as the veins from
5 lime leaves and finely chop with 2 red
chillies and 30g peeled root ginger until
the Thai flavours resemble a paste. Lightly
fry in a little olive oil for 2 minutes then
allow the ingredients to cool in the frying
pan. Plunge the corn into salted boiling
water and cook for approximately 20mins
(depending on size and freshness). When
the Thai flavours have cooled, mix the paste
with 150g softened salted butter and a
handful of chopped coriander. To serve,
remove the leaves from the corn, place in a
bowl and spoon on the butter.
Seasonal:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:24 Page 6
> flavour xxxxxxx
7
>Marrow
The marrow has never been one of those
fashionable ingredients. If, like us, you grow
courgettes you may know all too well that if you blink,
you suddenly have a glut of oversized marrows on your
hands and even your neighbours wont relieve you of them! On
their own these large summer squashes may be a touch bland, but its all about how
you treat them. They have a wonderful texture when roasted so to add a bit of flavour
try stuffing them first. Another way to savour them is in wonderfully spiced marrow
chutney which you can enjoy all year round. Look for firm, weighty marrows with
undamaged skin. Larger marrows have tougher skin and so like other members of
the squash family store well in a cool, dark spot.
At their
best right now
We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodiesand tastier dishes.
Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Stuart Ash from Woods Restaurant
team up to bring you all you need to know about thebest produce of the month.
>Damsons
Damsons are at their best at the end of August through to September. They have
a vibrant dark blue to almost indigo colour and are often very juicy. However,
damsons are very sour and because of this arent really eaten raw but yield a
deliciously sweet flavour when cooked. They can be quite versatile and are most
commonly associated with jellies, jams, chutneys and also make a great
substitute for sloes in a homemade Damson gin. When picking look for firm and
juicy fruits and treat like most other soft fruits. They can be kept in a fridge for a
couple of days but make sure you give them a good wash before you start to
utilise this wonderful ingredient.
SEARED DUCK BREAST WITH MAPLE SYRUP
AND BALSAMIC ROASTED DAMSONS
Serves 4
Cut 8 ripe damsons in half and remove the
stones and stems, place in an oven tray and
sprinkle over 70g of soft brown sugar and 50ml
of balsamic vinegar. Cook at 160C mixing
occasionally until the fruits have softened and
the liquid has caramelised. Place a non stick
pan on the heat, season four Barbary duck
breasts on both sides with salt and black
pepper and place them skin side down in the
hot pan. Cook until golden brown then turn over
the duck breasts to seal the other sides. Drain
any access fat, brush with maple syrup then
place them in a pre-heated oven and cook at
180C to your liking. Remove the duck breasts
from the pan and allow them to rest. To serve
mix 10 shredded basil leaves with the
damsons. Spoon 4 halves on each plate, slice
the duck breast and arrange on top of the
damsons and drizzle with the balsamic jus.
ROASTED MARROW WITH A PORK, APRICOT
AND TARRAGON STUFFING
Serves 4
Finley chop 1 onion and 1 garlic clove and fry
in a little olive oil until soft. Put to one side
and allow to cool. Top and tail, then peel
1 kg of marrow and scrape out the insides.
In a frying pan, gently brown the outside of
the marrow whilst turning it a little at a time
until golden brown. In a bowl, mix 500g of
minced pork, 100g of dried apricot,
1 egg, 70g white breadcrumbs and a small
bunch of chopped tarragon with a large
pinch of salt and pepper. Remember to add
in the cooked onion and garlic. Fill the
marrow with the made stuffing, making sure
it is packed in well. Season the outside of the
marrow with a little more salt and place in an
oven tray to cook at 160c for approximately
40mins. To serve, allow the marrow to rest
for 5 minutesthen slice into four and serve
with dressed salad leaves or a nice sauce.
Seasonal:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:24 Page 7
Cadbury:Layout 1 6/7/10 20:40 Page 1
9
> flavour fab foodie reads
For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends,
our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
COOKING WITH THE MASTER CHEF
MICHEL ROUX JR
Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 25
Michel Roux Jr, renowned chef and
presenter-judge on BBCs
MasterChef: the professionals, has
now released the eagerly awaited
Cooking with the Master Chef. This
delicious cookery book is a
compendium of his favourite
recipes, demonstrating his vast
knowledge and experience on every
page. Michel has a justifiable
reputation for knowing everything
there is to know about food, how it
should taste and how it should be
cooked and as the chef-proprietor
of the award winning Le Gavroche
restaurant in London, it is not hard
to take influence from this master of food in your own kitchen.
THE STUDENT COOKBOOK
SOPHIE GRIGSON
Collins, 12.99
Its coming to that time of year
again when students will be
packing their bags and leaving
home for the not so bright lights of
university lecture theatres and
shared kitchen cupboards. If like
most, youre worried that your
beloved will be relying on take out
menus and a bulk purchase of
penne pasta, then renowned TV
chef, Sophie Grigson is here to help.
The Student Cookbook combines
delicious tasting, simple recipes
with expert tips and easy to follow
guides. This book assumes no prior cooking experience, giving
invaluable advice from chopping an onion to what pans you need
for what job, providing the foodie student with everything they
need to know for a lifetime of delicious dishes, without a pizza box
in sight.
fab foodie reads
BILLS BASICS
BILL GRANGER
Quadrille, 25
Bill Granger, the hugely popular
Australian food writer, television
chef and restaurateur
has worked his renowned magic on
over 100 of his favourite classic
dishes, bringing them effortlessly
into the 21st century. Bills Basics is
a cheats guide to making the recipes
that every home cook wants to
master. Bill has simplified
techniques, minimised fussy
ingredient lists and given these core
dishes a modern twist thats in tune
with our busy lives and our passion for fresh and healthy
flavours. Enjoy lazy breakfasts to late night suppers to delicious
chocolate brownies. We think this will have you cooking from
cover to cover.
BAKE-A-BOO BAKERY COOKBOOK
ZOE BERKELEY
Spruce 14.99
The London based bake-a-boo
bakery has become a local
favourite for those looking to
indulge in the ultimate sweet
treat. For those of us who cant
make it to the countrys capital for
a moment of dessert delight,
bakery owner Zoe Berkeley has
shared some of her tasty secrets
in this, her first cookbook, so we
too can recreate her renowned
sweets in the comfort of our own
home. This gorgeous book
presents a wide range of themed
tea party menus and decoration
ideas to inspire any party or event.
Chose from classics such as a traditional Victoria sponge to the more
adventurous taste of pumpkin and chocolate. Also included is a
selection of gluten. Wheat, sugar and egg free treats.
FabFoodieReads:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:10 Page 9
> flavour loves...
THIS MONTHS MUST DO, BUY & SEE...
Collettes
Cupcakes
Whether you're looking for a little piece of
nostalgia or just a special treat, these
delicious cupcakes are freshly made every day
in Bristol. Each little treasure is lovingly
decorated by hand and delivered to your
doorstep cupcakes are also available in
mini or giant size on request.
Flavour reader offer free delivery on
orders of 12 cupcakes.
T: 07528 342196
W: www.collettescupcakes.co.uk
Allington Farm Shop
Weve just discovered this award-winning,
family run farm shop on the outskirts of
Chippenham in Wiltshire, specialising in
some of the finest locally produced
food around. As well as home reared
meat, home made cakes and pies,
home cooked hams and home grown
potatoes theres a huge range of other
Wiltshire produce on sale including
local honey, cheeses, chutneys and
pickles, ice cream, meringues,
seasonal fresh fruit and vegetables
and much, much more.
Allington is open 7 days a week so
dont delay in dropping by!
T: 01249 658112
W: www.allingtonfarmshop.co.uk
Farm & Cottage Holidays
Families, couples, groups and pets are all welcome be inspired by this
collection of self-catering holiday accommodation in our favourite
places across the South West. Choose between rural and coastal, big
ones and small ones, dog-friendly and eco-friendly, and many more...
T: 01237 426280
W: www.holidaycottages.co.uk
flavour
The Kitchen, Lusty Glaze Beach
Named as one of Europe's finest beach bars, it's nestled in a
small cove on the North Cornwall coast. We've been
daydreaming of the stunning coastal scenery and al fresco
beach dining, with laid-back beach events and acoustic gigs.
There are watersports at the nearby Adventure Centre, so
visitors can choose to join in with the action or relax with a
cocktail or a coffee.
T: 01637 879709
W: www.lustyglaze.co.uk
L
o
v
e
s
Flavour lovesq7:Layout 1 4/9/10 16:20 Page 10
Exmoor Walking Festival
Enjoy Exmoor flora and fauna at The Autumn
Walking festival this 1st-4th October. Guided
walks vary in distance and theme find a deer
rut with Exmoor rangers or follow the West
Somerset Railway track during the Autumn
Steam Gala.
This year the festival has teamed up with the
Exmoor Food Festival six of the guided walks
include some delicious local produce in
glorious surroundings. The ticket price even
includes a stop off for lunch or a cream tea!
T: 01271 863001
W: www.exmoorwalkingfestival.co.uk
11
> flavour loves...
Munch Delis Finca la Fany coffee
A dark chocolaty cup with champagne acidity. This slow drip
filter coffee from El Salvador is very special. Just one of the
tasty products that you can find at Munch Deli, a new deli caf
opening on Saturday 11 September in Clifton.
Whisper Flavour Loves in Lucys ear and shell make you a
free cup (one whisper per customer by the end of September!)
T: 0117 925 0251
W: www.munch-deli.co.uk
The Fox at Broughton Gifford
Head Chef David Waine has created a seasonal, British inspired
menu, with some classical touches. We love the big, secluded garden
and real West Country ingredients. The Fox is working hard to
establish its new vegetable garden, fruit trees and home-reared pigs
and chickens. Just 10 miles from Bath's city centre, we'll definitely
be dropping in for the famous Sunday lunch and a pint of local ale.
T: 01225 782 949
W: www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk
The Tantivy
In the heart of the beautiful Exmoor town of Dulverton lies
The Tantivy, a traditional, family run shop and caf
steeped in the heritage of this gateway to Exmoor
National Park. It serves delicious teas and coffees year-
round and sells a tantalising range of local favourites
including cider, clotted cream and traditional sweets.
T: 01398 323465
W: www.tantivyexmoor.co.uk
Flavour lovesq7:Layout 1 04/09/2010 16:37 Page 11
12
> flavour james martin
Is it fair to say your debut in the kitchen
was younger than most?
It was an earlier start than some. Like most
chef's training I started out on the pot wash
until I was 8, when I got my first whites and
a set of knives I still have the knives.
How did you come to cook for the Queen
Mother?
I was working at Castle Howard and they
used to have a lot of famous people visiting
the house. I remember it was a rack of
lamb followed by a dessert of strawberries,
ginger ice cream and meringue in the
shape of a swan.
Do you think spending time inFranceis a
rite of passage for professional chefs?
It is to some degree but it's not as
important as it used to be as restaurants in
theUKand elsewhere have significantly
raised the bar. The opportunity to travel has
also becomeeasier for people so it gives
young chefs more choices than I had.
Tell us about Hotel du Vin, was the concept
your idea?
No. I was pastry chef of the Chewton Glen
at the time and the head wine waiter had
the idea of a boutique hotel where I would
have free rein on the food. The idea was to
use the bistro as a shop window to get
people through the door and therefore into
the hotel it worked incredibly well from
day one.
Ahead of his visit to Bristol
for next months Love
Cooking Festival, we talk
with our favourite face of
Saturday morning
television...
10 questions with
James
Martin
James Martin:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:50 Page 12
13
> flavour james martin
You seem to lean more towards British
cuisine, has that always been the case?
It's always been a subject close to my
heart. I was brought up on a farm and still
try and help local producers from theUK.
I think we're missing a trick by looking at
food from abroad when we have such an
abundance of great producers here but just
dont know it or give them the support they
deserve. These people have taken
hundreds of years to forge their craft and
once gone it will never return.
Do you miss the day-to-day buzz of a
working kitchen?
I still have restaurants and cook four to five
nights a week for charities, functions and
large dinners. I haven't stopped cooking it's
just the goal posts have moved. When my
TV career is over, I'd like to buy a pub and
just cook on the stoves doing what I love.
Of all the people you've had on Saturday
Kitchen, who would you pick as a
permanent co-host?
Michel Roux Senior, he's a legendand a
great friend.
What advice would you give to a fellow
celeb chef before going onto Strictly Come
Dancing?
It's not as easy as it seems! Think of the
hardest day's work you've done in the
kitchen, double it and it still won't come
close to the amount of effort required.
What can we expect from the Love Cooking
Festival?
As a brand new festival everyone is really
excited about it I think it has potential to
be more interactive than some of the other
shows I do.
What do you think strikes people most
when they meet you for the first time?
My height 6 foot 3 certainly doesnt look it
on the small screen in your living room!
You can see James Martin demonstrating
alongside Valentine Warner and Thomasina
Miers at the Love Cooking Festival at the
Colston Hall. For more information, visit
www.lovecookingfestival.com
ROASTED GROUSE
WITH POTATO,
CELERIAC AND
PARSNIP ROSTI
Ive been lucky enough to go grouse
shooting up in Scotland. Or rather, the
grouse were lucky, as I couldnt hit a
barn door! Its a good job my butcher
has grouse in stock otherwise Id never
make this dish. The season runs from
the start of August to the start of
December, making this the ideal
autumnal game recipe.
Serves 4
Ingredients
4 grouse
2 onions, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tbsp olive oil
50ml Marsala or other sweet dessert
wine
200ml red wine
1 sprig of thyme, leaves only
600ml beef or chicken stock
25g butter
For the rosti
200g celeriac
2 parsnips
2 medium baking potatoes
2 sprigs of thyme, leaves only
4 tbsp thick crme fraiche
2 egg yolks
3 tbsp olive oil
50g butter
Salt and black pepper
Method
1 Preheat the oven to 200C (400 F),
Gas 6.
2 Season the grouse well with salt and
pepper and put the onions inside the
cavity of each bird. Set a roasting tin on
the hob over a high heat, add the olive oil
to the tin, along with the grouse, and fry
on all sides to seal and brown. Transfer to
the oven and cook for 20 minutes. Baste
the grouse from time to time with the oil
while it is cooking.
3 Meanwhile, peel and grate the celeriac,
parsnip and potato. Wrap in a clean tea
towel and squeeze to get rid of any excess
water, then tip into a large bowl, along
with thyme, crme fraiche and egg yolks.
Mix well and season with salt and pepper,
then divide the vegetable mixture into
heaps of about 2 tablespoons and shape
into 7.5 cm patties of about 2cm in height.
4 Add the olive oil and the butter to a non-
stick frying pan set over a medium-high
heat and, when the butter has melted, add
the vegetable patties to the pan. Cook
slowly turning over after 3-4 minutes and
cooking for the same amount of time on
the other side.
5 Remove the grouse from the oven and
allow to rest. Pour away the fat and set
the tin on the hob over a medium heat.
Pour in the Marsala, the red wine and the
thyme, and stir with a wooden spoon to
deglaze, loosening and incorporating any
sediment from the base of the tin. Add the
stock, bring to the boil, reduce the heat
and simmer to reduce the liquid by two-
thirds. Stir in the butter and season to
taste with salt and pepper.
6 Place one grouse on each plate, spoon
over the sauce and serve with the rosti on
the side.
Were missing a trick by looking at food from abroad
when we have such an abundance of great producers here
but just dont give them the support they deserve.
James Martin:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:50 Page 13
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15
> flavour hazelwood house
Once upon a time, Nick Gregory visited Hazelwood House,
deep in Devons unspoilt woodland
hazelwood
house
Hazelwood2:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:34 Page 15
16
Having witnessed a great beauty in
Hazelwood House and its grounds in 1988,
three inspired ladies embarked on a
remarkable journey to transform a vacant
and tired estate in South Devon into a place
of reassuring calm and tranquillity.
Janie, Gillian and Anabels story is a long
and magical one and not a fairytale I could
do justice to within these pages. However,
ask any one of The Three Musketeers
about Hazelwood Houses rebirth and they
will probably tell you, Hazelwood happened
not because of us, but despite us. A
modest sentiment and not one I agree with,
at all.
Hazelwood is, you see, all about these three
and the hundreds that have resided here
because of them - esteemed musicians,
championed artists and published authors -
and who come to this place because it has
been made into somewhere and something
very special indeed.
The 67 acres of wilderness that the house
and its cottages resides in promise a
ruggedness that will excite any lover of the
outdoors, complete with atmospheric
boathouse set aside the picturesque river.
Whether it be an early morning stroll before
the prepared-to-order breakfast, or a late
afternoon jaunt down to the water
preceding a G&T in the drawing room, the
stunning grounds will put you in the mood
for whatever comes next. Your dog will
enjoy the walk too, with Hazelwood
welcoming the well-behaved companions
on site.
Carol, the Musketeers very own
DArtagnan, met my companion and I on
arrival and immediately made us feel at
home. But this is not your ordinary home
and nor is it your run-of-the mill hotel.
There are no phones or trouser presses,
there is no room service and there is no bar.
Not everyones cup of tea admittedly, nor
did I ever think it would be mine. However,
once you step through the front door and
immerse yourself in the ambience, its
difficult not to be blown away by the
experience.
There is an air of the old colonial about
Hazelwood. You can imagine yourself a
member of the landed gentry, if only for a
couple of days. Cut yourself off from the
world if you like, but equally youre only a
stones throw from Dartmouth, Salcombe
and Dartmoor, while surfs up at Bigbury
Bay and Burgh Island if thats your thing.
Theres plenty for youngsters to do aswell.
Hazelwood will furnish you with all the
information you need and, whether it be an
outing to Pennywell Farm or a trip to
Paignton Zoo, the bundles of fun will not get
bored.
Twenty-six year old head chef Chris
Scantlebury has created a daily-changing
menu that covers most bases and one that
definitely satisfies the palate. Using locally
sourced produce and homegrown herbs and
vegetables wherever possible, you can but
go right whatever your order.
On the first evening I enjoyed pan seared
scallops in a lime a coconut sauce, a dish
both refreshing and unusual, but certainly a
hit. This was followed by a local rack of
lamb with dauphinoise potatoes and roasted
vegetables. Again, a big success, leaving me
barely enough room for a rhubarb and
lemon mouse with shortbread biscuits.
On the second evening, I devoured a
smoked salmon terrine followed by roasted
duck and mashed potatoes. A meringue
with cream and summer berries finished
me off on that occasion.
Whether it be an early morning stroll before the prepared-to-order breakfast,
or a late afternoon jaunt down to the water preceding a G&T in the drawing room,
the stunning grounds will put you in the mood for whatever comes next.
17
The staff are all unfalteringly polite, friendly
and helpful in making sure everything is to
your satisfaction. Youre a world away from
home here, yet youre made to feel like
youve just returned. You can come and go,
potter about, shoot the breeze or fall asleep
on an armchair with a good book.
I would love to talk about the wonderful
licensed chapel and the bat sanctuary on
site, the sister hotel in the Orkneys, the
charity the ladies run and the island they
own. I would like to sing the praises of the
chef more and describe the comfortable
rooms and stunning views across the valley.
I would like to furnish you with a selection
of the stories The Musketeers regaled, the
number of workshops and weddings and
artistic geniuses that have entertained in
these grounds, but some things really are
best experienced first hand.
Theres a charm at Hazelwood House that
Im afraid Im just cant put into words. Its
sole aim is to enrich, enhance and
encourage and it does that with bells on,
ensuring all the while that everyones time
here is bespoke to them.
Hazelwood House
Loddiswell
Nr. Kingsbridge
S. Devon
TQ7 4EB
01548 821232
www.hazelwoodhouse.com.
18
> flavour food from plenty
Brimming with Irish charm and
enthusiasm, Diana Henry takes a moment
out from pressing deadlines and playful
children on a rainy day in the school
holidays to let us in on the inspiration
behind her new book.
Despite appearances Diana did not start her
career in the food industry, but instead
spent many years as a successful television
producer. Becoming a mother convinced
Diana to stop the long hours and weekend
work and devote her time to her first born
son: It was a big decision, but I just
couldnt leave him anymore. It seemed like
a natural transition to move into food
writing. I knew a lot about my subject
already, not through formal study but just
by soaking it up.
Inspiration for Food from Plenty has come
from 10 years of home cooking, recipe
collecting cultures and cooks from all over
the world, not to mention the hours spent
on the London underground putting
together ideas in a little black diary, which
she still has today. Growing up with women
cooks formed the backbone of my cooking.
Cooking forms a bond amongst women as
they have traditionally done all the cooking.
There is a goulash recipe that was given to
me in Italy by a mother. Every time I cook it
I think of her and whether she might be
cooking it at the same time for her family.
Its no secret that current food culture relies
heavily on convenience. In these beautifully
illustrated pages, Diana seeks to conquer
this with ease and minimum cost. I wanted
my book to give a sense of connectedness
with the earth, reconnect people once again
with raw ingredients, with producers and to
cook from scratch once again.
This book is more than a recipe book but a
collection of stories, inspirations and love
that we too can adopt and place proud
amongst our kitchen cook book selection.
Its safe to say that if any cookbook will stay
with you for a lifetime, this will be the one.
Be prepared for Sellotaped pages, sticky
finger marks and the odd carrot peeling.
As well as writing for many magazines, including House and
Garden, Sainsburys Magazine and Waitrose Food Illustrated,
Diana Henry was also named Cookery Writer of the Year by the
Guild of Food Writers in 2007 and 2009 for her work in The
Sunday Telegraphs Stella magazine. This month Diana talks
about her new book Food from Plenty, a book that combines the
pleasure of eating and a healthy respect for sustainability.
food from plenty
APRICOT, PEACH
AND BLACKBERRY
CRUMBLE
This is the quintessential British
never-fails-to-please pudding. Its
also sensible, by which I mean that
it isnt expensive and it is a great
vehicle for celebrating gluts of fruit.
The only thing to remember is that
your fruit must cook to tenderness
in the time it takes the crumble to
become golden. So, when your fruit
is particularly unripe, its a good
idea to cook it slightly in advance.
Serves 8
Ingredients
600g (1lb 5oz) apricots, quartered
and stoned
3 peaches, stoned and sliced
400g (14oz) blackberries
finely grated zest of and juice of 1
lemon
150g (5oz) caster sugar
150g (5oz) plain flour
125g (4oz) ground almonds
175g (6oz) butter, chopped
30g (114oz) flaked almonds
1 Preheat the oven to
180C/350F/gas mark 4. Put the
fruit and lemon juice and zest into
an ovenproof dish and stir in 40g
(1oz) of the sugar. To make the
crumble, mix the flour, remaining
sugar and the ground almonds
together and rub in the butter until
the mixture turns crumbly.
2 Put the crumble on top of the fruit,
scatter the flaked almonds on top
and bake for 40 minutes. The top of
the crumble should be golden and
the fruit tender (insert a small,
sharp knife to test for this). If your
fruit is still a bit hard but your
crumble is already golden, cover the
top with some foil to stop it getting
too dark and bake a little longer.
3 Leave to cool a little and serve
with crme frache or whipped
cream.
Cooking forms a bond amongst women...
There is a goulash recipe that was given to
me in Italy by a mother. Every time I cook
it I think of her and whether she might be
cooking it at the same time for her family.
Plenty:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:47 Page 18
20
Serves 8
Ingredients
FOR THE APRICOTS
50g (1oz) butter, plus more for the tin
78 fresh apricots (not too ripe) halved
and stoned
1 tbsp runny honey
FOR THE CAKE
150g (5oz) unsalted butter
2 eggs, beaten
100g (3oz) plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
100g (3oz) ground almonds
1 tsp vanilla extract
125ml (4fl oz) full-fat milk
1 Butter a 2023cm (89in) cake tin and
prepare the apricots. Put the sugar and
75ml (2fl oz) water into a small saucepan.
Heat slowly until the sugar has dissolved.
When the sugar has completely melted
bring to the boil and watch until the syrup
starts to turn to caramel (it will turn golden
first). Swish the pan a bit. Once it becomes
caramel (you will know by the smell and
colour) take immediately off the heat and
add the butter. Stir once the butter has
melted. Pour into the tin and place the
apricots, close together and cut-side-down,
on top. Preheat the oven to
180C/350F/gas mark 4.
2 To make the cake, cream the butter and
sugar until pale and fluffy, then add the
eggs a little at a time, beating well after
each addition (add a couple of spoonfuls of
flour to the mixture if it starts to curdle). Sift
together the flour and baking powder and
stir in the almonds. Add the vanilla, then
the dry ingredients, alternating with the
milk. Spoon this batter over the apricots
and bake for 50 minutes. When the cake is
cooked, a skewer inserted into the centre
should come out clean.
3 Run a fine knife between the cake and the
tin and invert on to a plate. If some apricots
have stuck to the tin, carefully replace them
on the cake.
4 Gently heat the honey. Using a pastry
brush or spoon, glaze the top of the cake.
The honey will run down the sides to give a
lush, homemade look. Leave to cool
completely. The cake is lovely with crme
frache (you can sweeten it slightly) or a
mixture of sweetened Greek yogurt and
double cream (no need to whip).
Good food made from the plentiful,
the seasonal, the leftover...
APRICOT AND ALMOND UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
One of my favourite cakes, with a good balance of sweet and tart that really makes the best
of apricots, especially those that are lacking in flavour or are underripe.
ALSO TRY
Making this with plums: Red-fleshed ones
are particularly good for their great colour,
or try greengages. You will need to use
more or less of these depending on the size
of the fruit. If you use red-fleshed plums,
make a glaze with melted redcurrant jelly
mixed with a little water for a nice shine,
instead of honey.
Makes 2 x 450g (1lb) jars
Ingredients
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 red chillies, deseeded and cut into
slivers
4cm (1in) cube of fresh root ginger,
peeled and finely chopped
tbsp crushed coriander seeds
seeds from 10 cardamom pods, crushed
5cm (2in) cinnamon stick
150g (5oz) dried apricots, roughly chopped
350g (12oz) fresh apricots, halved, stoned
and chopped
300ml ( pint) white wine vinegar or
cider vinegar
250g (9oz) granulated sugar
4 tbsp roughly chopped coriander leaves
(optional)
1 Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pan and
saut the onion over a medium heat until
soft and pale gold. Add the garlic and all the
fresh and dried spices and cook for another
2 minutes, until the spices release their
fragrance. Now add all the other
ingredients, except the sugar and coriander
leaves, and bring to the boil. Reduce to a
simmer and cook for about 1520 minutes,
until the fruit is soft.
3 Now add the sugar and stir from time to
time to help it dissolve. Continue to cook
until the mixture is thick. It has cooked
enough when you can pull a wooden spoon
across the bottom of the pan and it leaves a
channel before closing again. Discard the
cinnamon stick.
4 Stir in the chopped coriander if you want
to use it (it does discolour slightly over time,
but it tastes great). Spoon the relish into hot
sterilized jars (see page 242) and seal. (You
need to use non-metallic lids that you are
sure will not react with vinegar.) I find this
relish is better when its relatively fresh, so I
generally use it up within about 3 months.
Keep it in the fridge once opened.
21
SALSA MISH MISH
Mish mish is the Arabic for apricot and the
fruit is adored in the Middle East and North
Africa. You will see it not only in puddings,
but in sweet-and-sour meat and poultry
stews such as the tajines of Morocco or the
khoresht of Iran. Sometimes an apricot
sauce is served alongside lamb or chicken
and I so like the combination that I wanted
to make the sauce into a preserve. This is
what I came up with, a kind of Middle
Eastern-flavoured relish. It is particularly
lovely with a leg of lamb that you have
marinated in yogurt and crushed garlic for
24 hours before roasting.
Food from
Plenty is
available at
all good
bookshops.
Published by
Mitchell Beazley.
RRP 25
SHOP
Green Park Stations Saturday
Market is renowned for its diverse
array of local farmers, traders and
eco-artisans. Fresh local produce
can be found at the Bath Farmers
Market (8.30am 1pm).Trading
alongside, from 9am 5pm, are a
range of independent market stalls
selling products from flowers to
vintage clothes, fine art to quirky
second hand wares. If Saturdays
arent your cup of tea why not try
Green Park Friday (first Friday of
every month).
The Station also plays host to a
range of retail residents Hacketts
Mens Hairdressing, Station
Antiques, Framecraft, Artist Colour
and Green Park Leather & Luggage.
From haircuts to handbags theres
something for everyone!
EAT
With all that shopping, youre sure
to want refreshment Green Park
Brasserie offers quality food &
drinks, using local produce where
available. Or grab a takeaway
Fairtrade coffee and local organic
burger from Green Park Express,
stopping off at The Thoughtful
Bread Company, our ethical baker,
as well.
SEE
The beautiful backdrop of the
original Victorian station with
its signature Bath stone faade,
make it worthy of a visit in its
own right as well as being a
popular venue for local events.
With regular Bath Fringe
Festival performances, site-
specific theatre and dance and
recently host to the Bath
Cooler Festival, Green Park
Station really is a thriving
platform for life and culture in
the heart of Bath.
JOIN!
Why not come down and visit
Green Park to become part of our
thriving community?
Where else will your butcher
know your name, your florist ask
how your cat is and your meal be
made from produce grown by the
farmers trading outside? You can
also join the Green Park mailing
list for regular news, competitions
and offers follow @GPS_Bath
on Twitter or join our Facebook
page: Green Park Station- Bath
GREAT PULTENEY ST
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GEORGE ST
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ROYAL CRESC
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BROCK ST
THE CIRC
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CHARLOTTE ST
JAM
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RAILWAY ST
CLAVERTON ST
ROSSITER RD

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WESTGATE ST CHEAP ST
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MIDLAND BRIDGE RD

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LOWER BRISTOL RD (A36)
GREEN ST
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CIRCUS MEWS

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COMPETITION
WIN! A pair of tickets to see
Ainsley Harriott at Love Cooking,
the Colston Hall Bristol on
Tuesday 5th October. For your
chance of winning join our e-
mailing list. Email
gps_bath@ethicalproperty.co.uk
stating your name, and contact
telephone number.
Winners will be drawn on the
27th September.
Discover Green
Park Station
the sustainable
heart of Bath
Discover Green
Park Station
the sustainable
heart of Bath
GreenParkStation - Flavour:Layout 1 04/09/2010 14:50 Page 43
Recently I worked on an event a little closer
to home in Bristol; a dinner for the Princes
Trust held at the Marriott Royal Hotel on
College Green. Hosted and organised by the
West Countrys very own Peter Rowell with
the food being cooked by a band of
salubrious characters and the Marriotts
resident team led by James Martin, the
event was a true West Country showdown.
Daniel Galmiche from Harveys Restaurant
put together a starter of pressed ham hock
terrine with pickled girolles and baby leeks.
He didnt take too kindly to my description
of his dish: spam with boiled long onions
and toadstools in vinegar.
The Tanner brothers, Chris and James,
brought 16 kilos of fresh white crab meat
up from Plymouth to make a memorable
fish course. Despite its everlasting
impression, I am struggling to remember
the dishs name, needless to say however it
truly was gert lush.
My chosen main was lamb shoulder topped
with crispy breast of lamb and a wickedly
decadent sauce of gently reduced cooking
liquor. There was also a fair selection of
canaps, plenty of bubbles and a delicious
cheese course thrown in as well as a mid-
dinner auction of foodie goodies.
No show would be complete without a
celebrity so Popstars Darius swanned in at
the witching hour after a flight from
>flavour columnist martin blunos
One of the South Wests most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath,
his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two
Michelin stars for more than fifteen years and appears regularly on television and radio with
regular slots as guest chef on BBC1s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen,
ITV Daily Cooks and ITVs Saturday Cooks.
23
After dining like a West Country king, Martin
Blunos is back to tell us how it's done...
Ingredients
For the pastry
300g plain flour
pinch salt
200g unsalted butter, cubed
100g icing sugar, sifted
3 egg yolks
For the filling
3 medium lemons, zest and juice
(no white pith)
6 large eggs
250g caster sugar
225ml double cream
pinch salt
Method
For the pastry:
1 Pulse the flour, salt and butter in a
food processor until it resembles
breadcrumbs. Add sugar then egg yolks
and pulse again until it comes together
to form a dough.
Tip the dough out onto a floured work
surface, press together to form a disc,
wrap in cling film and chill for 2 hours.
2 Preheat the oven to 180C / gas mark 4
and place a 23cm flan tin on a baking
sheet. Roll the pastry out. Line the flan
ring with the pastry, trim off any
overhanging pastry. Chill for 10 minutes
before lining with greaseproof paper and
baking beans, then bake for 20 minutes
or until golden brown around the edges.
Remove the beans and paper and bake
for a further 5 minutes to ensure the
base is completely cooked.
For the filling:
3 While the pastry is blind baking, beat
the eggs, salt and sugar together until
smooth, then gently stir in the cream,
lemon juice and zest until combined
(dont whisk otherwise youll end up with
air bubbles in the custard).
4 Turn the oven to 170C / gas mark 3.
Pour the filling into the tart case and
bake for 40 minutes, or until the custard
has just set. Leave to cool completely
before removing the tart ring.
Do not store in fridge, this tart is best
eaten the same day and at room
temperature alone it is king but with a
dollop of clotted cream its the business.
NOT JAMES LEMON TART
Edinburgh (where he had
performed earlier in the
evening) and after a limo
journey up the tarmac hit the
stage, singing along to the
backing track of his hit
colourblind, much to the delight
of the ladies present. Surprisingly,
this didnt do much for me I
got more out of the ice cold
bottles of beer that graced
each hand.
Sadly I couldnt get James so
heres my own recipe for a classic
lemon tart...
A ROYAL
FEAST
23 MartinBlunos:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:34 Page 23
24
> flavour kitchen garden
Kitchen gardener:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:52 Page 24
25
> flavour kitchen garden
This summer has been fantastic for our
harvest. Our soft fruits the raspberries,
tayberries and mulberries have all done
really well, as have the potatoes, peas and
beans. Every year is different and its been
fantastic to have some sunshine on the
gardens in the last few months; the crops
have flourished and there have been fewer
pests and diseases.
Head chef Sam Moody and I talk a lot about
the things I grow and how he can use them.
He has some great ideas and plenty of
enthusiasm. After all these years I know the
sort of things chefs want and tend to grow
these as standard, but will add in new and
unusual crops both of my own choice and
from their suggestions. Being open to ideas
from each other keeps it an enriching
exchange.
Our kitchen garden is not a huge space so
produce that goes a long way is always good
value. We have raised beds which maximise
the crop yield as you can grow more
intensively. We also try and get two crops
out of each bed and try to grow things which
can be cropped time and time again, such
as chard. The chefs often have fun picking
when Im not around and its not unusual to
come back and find an entire bed gone!
The autumn harvest is looking glorious we
have lots of pears to look forward to as well
as apples, quince, sweetcorn, pumpkins,
butternut squash and a very exciting odd
Italian squash, Rugosa Fruiliana, the most
ugly looking variety thats packed with a
wonderful flavour.
For me the challenge is keeping up with the
chefs astheirpreferenceschangeas they
introducenew menus and follow current
food trends.Sam has lots of interesting
ideas onhow to usethe produceand
dininghere is always a great experience as
a result.
kitchen
garden
This month Jane
Moore, head gardener
at the Bath Priory
offers her seasonal
tips for harvesting and
growing in September.
FORK TO FORK LUNCH
THURSDAY 23 SEPTEMBER
Discover more about the relationship
between the garden and the kitchen
with a guided tour of the gardens with
Jane. Afterwards, move into the
kitchens for a glimpse of the chefs
working with the produce as they
incorporate the ingredients into your
lunch menu.
50 per person to include morning
coffee, two course lunch by Michael
Caines, glass of wine and coffee.
Please call 01225 331922 to book.
WHAT TO SOW:
We are getting ready to plant autumn
onion and shallot sets as well as
garlic which will be planted a little
later in November.
WHAT TO PICK
NOW:
Runner beans,
beetroot,
chard,
courgettes,
rocket and
other salads.
Look out for fresh
herbs like dill,
coriander, tarragon and marjoram as
well as turnips, main crop potatoes,
carrots and tomatoes. Also, theres
some fantastic fruit about such as
apples, blackberries and figs.
Kitchen gardener:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:52 Page 25
26
> flavour Clarissa Dickson Wright
I met Clarissa amid a flurry of paperwork,
a verbal joust with the owner of the
establishment over a delivery of an octopus
and a deferential conversation with one of
her many admirers. Aptly chosen, we met at
Edinburghs Valvona & Crolla, a place that
every shopkeeper in the land should visit as
a shining example of how to seduce the
public into buying good food.
Her latest foray into the culinary arena is
Potty, a collection of dishes that need just
one pot to cook them. The idea itself has an
immediate appeal in the frenetic British
lifestyle so many of us lead. Recognising
that not all of us have the space or time we
need, she quickly rose to the challenge and
used her extensive repertoire and flavour
palette to create a jaw-dropping collection
of dishes that would grace the best of tables
for any occasion.
Admittedly, the pot has been used as a
concept in some of the recipes. Pastry
cases, tin mugs and whole vegetables are
garnered to form vessels to encase a host
of mouth-watering food. Influences of
Spain, the West Indies and Malaysia are
infused into the dishes, providing a spice-
laden backdrop to some of the other more
traditional British fare. The resultant dishes
range from dumplings to dfeena, paella to
pies, and tofu to tarts.
Inevitably we then strayed into the minefield
where Clarissa so boldly likes to tread her
distaste for supermarkets. Importation of
food instead of supporting British
producers, tracking welfare and quality of
food on our own turf, a desire to see the
countryside prosper and the poor treatment
and payment of farmers, were the reasons
she cited. Only Waitrose escaped her
scathing criticism by a whisker on the
farming front and Starbucks were even
praised for saving our dairy industry by only
serving British milk.
In her time, Clarissa has owned her own
bookshop in Edinburgh and run the
infamous Books For Cooks in London. She
is amazed at the sheer volume of cookery
works that are produced every year. Like
owning a language CD, she opined that
people love to fantasise over mouth-
watering food shots and recipes, and, as if
by some magical osmosis, they too will be
able to cook it.
At 63, it seems she has no plans to retire.
Her next book The History Of English Food
showcases her not only as a cook, but as an
astute food historian with an encyclopaedic
knowledge of her subject coupled with a
voracious appetite for discovery. Her
research however, has been wholly devoted
to reading after a recent tussle with
Wikipedia and Who Wants To Be A
Millionaire? Never trust the Internet, she
advised, I had to ring and tell them that
Alexander Armstrong was not my cousin. Of
course they apologised profusely. Who
wouldn't when corrected by this Grand
Master?
There are plans for more books, and she
hinted at a desire to write a novel.
Scheduled television appearances are
adding up as well. She will be teaching
Michael Ball to cook, describing him as an
awfully nice chap you know, and taking part
in a series called The Great British Food
Revival. Others will follow, but are still in
their early planning stages. It seems that
CDW is about to enter a Renaissance period
of her own. Well deserved for one so
capable in food related matters.
So, whether you decide to get back to basics
with her Primordial Soup or indulge
yourself with the Tablet and Cheshire
cheese pie, her latest culinary treasure is
most definitely one for the kitchen book
shelf, destined to be lovingly splattered with
evidence of its regular appearance by your
side in the kitchen.
Good food, fewer dishes. Yet another winner
on all sides from Clarissa.
This month Helen Aurelius Haddock takes a hike North of the border to Edinburgh to
talk to Clarissa Dickson Wright about her latest book Potty.
ClarissaDicksonWright
Potty! is available at
all good bookshops.
Published by Hodder
& Stoughton. RRP
20
Her next book The
History Of English Food
showcases her not only
as a cook, but as an
astute food historian
with an encyclopaedic
knowledge of her
subject.
Clarissa:Layout 1 04/09/2010 14:08 Page 26
Clarissa:Layout 1 04/09/2010 14:09 Page 27
From vital vegetables to dainty
Dexters and hearty soups Rod
Hall, owner of Bickham Farm in
Devon certainly knows a thing or
two about organic country living,
even despite a few sniggers
from the neighbours...
28
> flavour Rod and Bens
Rod
and
Bens
Any spare moment in my childhood was
spent on my eccentric neighbours farm.
I worked hard and it kept me out of
trouble, making me aspire to have my own
one day. When the time came, it was run
down and needed a lot of work. I think
people underestimate how much effort
goes into growing your own food, or indeed
Rod and Bens q7:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:59 Page 28
my first two cows at The Devon Show
about seven years ago and from there Ive
built the whole heard. The cows are easy
to manage as well as the beef being
exceptional.
Supporting local organic growers,
increasing our soup menu and getting
better at growing veg is all on the agenda
going forward. But really, who knows what
the future has in store for me? Thats the
great thing about this business, no two
days are the same and I wouldnt have it
any other way.
Rod and Bens
Bickham Farm
Kenn
Exeter
Devon
EX6 7XL
01392 833833
www.rodandbens.com
into agriculture as a whole. It can be very
rewarding but a constant challenge.
I began the business with Ben, a friend
I met in agricultural college. Neither of us
had any experience but both of us believed
in the principles behind organic farming
and knew thats where we wanted to be.
Since then, Ben has moved down the road
to another farm. An opportunity came up
for him to begin a yurt farm and it would
have been crazy if he didnt take it, farms
just dont come up very often. He supplies
our eggs for the veg boxes and were still
very good friends.
The wildlife we have in the farm is
fantastic. We leave large margins for
wildlife to forage in headgerows, we have
bird seeds and support plenty of amber
rated birds, which is the RSPB coding for
the species. We also have countless walks
and take plenty of visits from local
schools.
You have to have a very different mindset
with organic agriculture; there are no
quick fixes with a spray of a chemical. You
really have to plan what youre doing and
know the soil really well. I dont think you
ever crack this type of industry, even
though the knowledge I have now is far
greater and I am more confident, you will
always be at the mercy of the elements.
Nature is in control, not you.
The organic industry has taken a hit since
the recession, theres no doubt about that.
Unfortunately organic food appears to cost
more. In reality, it is the real cost of the food.
Even though weve noticed a cooling down of
our vegetable box sales, we are always
finding new markets for the soups. Its quick,
easy and fits with peoples lifestyles.
My Dexter herd get a lot of ridicule from
other farmers! They are the smallest
English breed, with Irish origins. I bought
Unfortunately organic food appears to cost
more. In reality, it is the real cost of the food.
29
> flavour Rod and Bens
Rod and Bens q7:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:59 Page 29
31
> flavour long shelf life
As the last of the series,
Helen Aurelius Haddock
takes a closer look at the
culinary classics that
should be adorning every
cooks bookshelf...
LONG
SHELF
LIFE...
Collecting cook books can become a bit of
an excessive habit, with one ingredient
books very often appearing on the kitchen
shelf as favourites. Fortune has smiled, as
Lindsey Bareham has produced three
excellent books covering the Holy Trinity of
vegetables: potatoes, onions and tomatoes.
Part of the books' enduring quality are their
faithful bibliographies. In an era of the
effortless Google search, its a comforting
reminder of a time when all this information
was hand gathered, like a harvest, collected
into one place to be safely stored for others.
In this she has been dutiful, with no stone
left unturned. The Food Lords have all been
consulted: Fanny Cradock, Elizabeth David,
Madhur Jaffrey and of course Delia Smith
are but a few who are mentioned in this
august roll of honour.
Sceptics might contend that like a war time
ration of margarine, the choice of recipes
has a self-limiting appeal, and is thinly
spread. In fact it is quite the opposite. If its
a potato cake you want, there is a choice of
at least a dozen or more, from potato only to
rich meat patties and of course the
infamous fish cake. The perfect chip
becomes a reality, banishing soggy
homemade offerings from the domestic
kitchen forever and we also discover that
bread made with potato is surprisingly
lighter than its wheat based counterpart.
Onions Without Tears profiles the entire
onion family, from Nigella to Chinese
chives, garlic to sand leeks. It's all in there,
begging you to shed a tear over their
preparation. Popular prejudice is pushed
aside here too. Leeks are served raw, garlic
is roasted, absenting itself from the
lingering smell and taste so often used as
an excuse for avoidance, onions become
sweet as honey with no added sugar and we
discover that chives will turn eggs rancid in
just thirty minutes. So no garnishes in the
egg sandwiches for the school trip please
mum.
There is a welcome chapter on dealing with
gluts of tomatoes, citing a myriad of ways to
preserve them in sauces, chutneys and even
jams. Tomato combos are explored, giving a
choice of marrying them with bread, rice,
pasta and pastry, with other recipes
allowing meat and fish to take centre stage
while tomatoes subtly enhance the overall
flavour.
Short of physical count, it would be
impossible to calculate the sheer number of
recipes encapsulated in these modest
paperbacks, but it must run into thousands,
enough to satisfy the voracious appetite of
the most ardent cook. I have owned mine
for nearly 20 years and am still wading my
way through them, with new dishes
appearing daily on the Haddock home
menu.
However, in the end it always pays to be
discerning, even when seduced by such an
enticing array of goodly fare. As a
postscript, Lindsey cites a menu seen on
her culinary travels in the West End that
included garlic and honey ice cream.
Suffice to say she had the presence of mind
not to include the recipe here and for that, I
will always be grateful to her!
Sceptics might contend that like a
wartime ration of margarine, the choice of
recipes has a self-limiting appeal and is thinly
spread. In fact it is quite the opposite.
A student of Bristol University back in
the 70s, Helen has since exchanged her
life in the West Country for the sunnier
climes of Western France. You can
follow her culinary musings across the
Channel on her blog:
www.haddockinthekitchen.wordpress.com
Long Shelf Life:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:56 Page 31
Lucknam Park, Colerne,
Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ
Tel: +44 (0)1225 742777
reservations@lucknampark.co.uk
www.lucknampark.co.uk
AL FRYCD
DINING
THIS SUMMER
AT LUCKNAM
The Brasserie for stylish and contemporary
dining. Using locally sourced fresh ingredients,
our executive chef Hywel Jones has created
an innovative 2 course set menu for 16.
Available Monday to Friday, 12 to 3pm.
And available every evening 3 course
set dinner menu for just 27 per person.
For reservations please call 01225 740575.
01454 263000
For bookings and further information call
tortworth@four-pillars.co.uk
www.four-pillars.co.uk/tortworth
Orangery Restaurant at Tortworth Court Four Pillars Hotel
Tortworth,Wotton-under-Edge, South Gloucestershire, GL12 8HH
A fresh dining experience! The classic Orangery glass domed
ceilings and walls allow guests to take in the glorious estate views
whilst enjoying fine food. All meals are freshly prepared using
ingredients that are seasonal.
Fresh & locally sourced often from theTortworth Estate Farm
Shop. Complimentary glass of house wine with this flyer.
56 - ads (q7):Layout 1 6/7/10 19:45 Page 1
33
> flavour hook and son
Before 1864 it was normal breakfast
etiquette to find a plump glass bottle full of
creamy, fresh milk sat on the kitchen table
from an obliging milker found in your own
backyard; nothing added, nothing taken
away, just milk in its purest form. Then
came the industrial revolution and the
discovery of the pasteurisation process,
which very quickly put a stop to that.
Many sadly, consider going organic a
lifestyle choice for the rich and eco chic.
Yet it was only a few generations ago that
this cultural label was replaced by the
simple and effective term normal. Never
before has it been considered so
remarkable to walk into your backyard, fill a
pail of milk and head back into the kitchen
to serve it up.
Where people were once so in touch with
their food, nowadays it seems consumers
are feeling lost to a marketplace of
misleading labelling, convenience foods and
supermarket price wars. A need to
reconnect to the earth is a pressure felt by
most.
Two champions of natural products are Phil
and Steve Hook from the family run farm
Hook and Son in East Sussex. This
organically run farm specialises in raw milk
milk that has not been through the
pasteurisation or homogenisation process.
When milk has been pasteurised, it has
been heated to a very high temperature and
then quickly cooled with the intention of
killing the bad bacteria. With that, the
process also sees off all of the good
bacteria, and the digestive enzymes
required to break down the protein and
lactose in the milk.
Homogenisation is the physical smashing of
the milks fat particles into smaller
particles. The reason for this is purely
cosmetic as people arent too keen on
seeing a creamy film, which forms at the
top of the bottle. This way, the colour is
consistent and the appearance isnt as off-
putting.
Whilst the health risks were certainly not
unfounded before pasteurisation, today the
story is different. In the UK brucellocis is
eliminated from all herds, and tuberculosis
is rare in most parts of the country. Hook
and Son are proud of their Hailsham Herd,
established in 1959, which has always been
TB and brucellocis free.
Out of a lengthy list of benefits, raw milk is
high in vitamins, full of healthy bacteria
such as acidophilus and seems to also have
a protective effect against asthma and
allergies in children. Steve Hook says,
Most people think all milks the same, but
the people who understand why raw milk is
so different will go to the ends of the earth
to get their hands on it.
The jury still seems to be out with a final
verdict but untreated milk is certainly
making a comeback and people are glad to
be able to feel reconnected to the land once
more. You simply cannot raise a healthy cow
on anything but healthy pasture. The giant
dairies who keep cows on concrete and feed
them grains and soya are not worth
considering so for us, the best place to start
is with Hook and Son.
Test is in the taste.
T: 01323 449494
W: www.hookandson.co.uk
The people who do know why raw milk is different
will go to the ends of the earth to get their hands on it.
As one of our most overlooked modern conveniences, perhaps its time we rethink our attitude to the
white stuff raw milk farmers Phil and Steve Hook certainly think so...
The raw truth
behind raw milk
Hook and Son:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:36 Page 33
34
> flavour bistrot coco
Fortunately for him and his excellent staff
however, the mounting gossip on the
grapevine is good, in fact its very good. In
the late 1990s, Marcel became proprietor of
the Elms Hotel in Worcestershire, a
stunning 18th Century country house. By
2001 he made his mark in Cheltenham,
buying a former cinema that is now a
landmark restaurant, The Daffodil. The
creation of Bistrot Coco is a personal
project to bring traditional French cuisine to
town, which officially opened for business in
March of this year.
Marcels philosophy has always been to
make quality, yet simple French food
accessible to all without the ferocious tug at
the purse strings. An unhurried three-
course meal for two here, with a generous
amount of wine to boot, will set you back
less than youd probably spend going to
watch the latest 3D blockbuster
accompanied by a tray of tasteless nachos
and a watery Coke. And that really is the
beauty of the place, because the food you
are paying for is worth twice the asking
price.
The snails I ordered as a starter were
fantastic (the mess I made on my shirt less
so) and it arrived with a basket of fresh,
warm bread, ample enough for my little
fellows and my companions moules
marinires also a big hit.
I then plumped for the fillet of beef with a
side order of homemade chips and a
peppercorn sauce. The beef was perfectly
cooked and the chips were a treat. The one
option I would lose in future however, was
the sauce. The meal just didnt require it.
My companions fish of the day was a
mackerel accompanied by a side of cous
cous and Im informed it was as fine as it
looked.
A choice of three desserts is not many but it
didnt need to be. My chocolate fondant with
ice cream was the perfect end to the meal
(along with a glass of Muscat), while the
crme brle on the other side of the table
was also a sight to behold. Luckily my
companion had eaten too many mussels
and I swiftly polished off the remains.
The wine list is simple and inexpensive, yet
all have been selected with great authority
and care. My beef and snails were perfectly
matched with a large carafe of Vin de Pays
dOc Merlot (8.30) while the other half had
a small carafe of Vin de Pays dOc
Sauvignon Blanc (4.50).
Tim our waiter could not have been
friendlier, while Jamie, the matre d', was a
bundle of enthusiasm and talked about
Coco as if it were a favourite son. Its
refreshing to see people at work and, to all
appearances, enjoying themselves. It looks
and feels the part too, but then you wouldnt
expect anything less given Marcels
background. Bistrot Coco demonstrates
perfectly that you dont have to spend a
weeks wages to have a memorable meal
out. Hats off (and napkins on) to Marcel and
his crew.
If loose lips sink ships then it could be curtains for Michelin star-
winning Marcel Frichots Bistrot Coco, because word is spreading
fast about this juvenile gem in the centre of Cheltenham
Bistrot Coco
30 Cambray Place
Cheltenham
GL50 1JP
01242 534000
www.bistrotcoco.co.uk
Bistrot Coco
Bistrot Coco2:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:44 Page 34
> flavour bistrot coco
35
An unhurried three-course meal for two here,
with a generous amount of wine to boot, will set
you back less than youd probably spend going to
watch the latest 3D blockbuster.
Bistrot Coco2:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:44 Page 35
The freshest fish available in the
shop or delivered to your door.
info@thescallopshell.co.uk
Brand new home delivery service
to Bath & surrounding area.
Visit www.thescallopshell.co.uk to order.
Special Offer for Flavour Magazine readers: Join our newsletter by emailing
info@thescallopshell.co.uk quoting Flavour101 & well include 2 complimentary
homemade fishcakes from our best selling range in your first home delivery order
The Scallop Shell, Whiterow Farm, Beckington, Frome 01373 831641
www.thescallopshell.co.uk info@thescallopshell.co.uk
Traditional Fishmonger
Seafood Deli
Home Delivery
Cookery School
This place is a gem
The Times Top 10 UK
Fishmongers, July 2010
Shepton Mallet | Somerset | BA4 4PR
T 01749 342 008 | F 01749 346 362
enquiries.charltonhousehotel@bannatyne.co.uk
www.bannatyne.co.uk
Set in the heart of the Mendips, Charlton House is
the perfect setting for a relaxed dining experience.
Indulge in our expertly crafted locally sourced menus, created
by our Executive Head Chef Duncan McKay and his brigade.
Serving Lunch and Dinner daily in the Restaurant.
Our drawing rooms and gardens are a great setting for Cocktails,
Afternoon Tea or Light Bites with friends.
For Reservations please call 01749 342 008
BANNATYNE S
CHARLTON HOUSE
S O M E R S E T
36 Scallop-Charlton:P.52 04/09/2010 15:55 Page 1
37
> flavour ask a chef
If you have a culinary query for Ronnie, write to us at the
usual address or email info@flavourmagazine.com
Q. I want to serve my French
dinner guests some English
wine, whats likely to go down
well?
Giles Robinson, Clifton
A. My favourite producer in
the UK is Camel Valley. I
remember being given a
bottle a couple of years ago
and thinking 'thanks a
bunch' but I was blown
away when I finally opened
it. The nose is fresh with a
grassy character coupled
with a floral note and the
palate is softly floral, clean
and fresh coupled with
soft ripe fruit. You can find
Camel Valley Bacchus 2009
in Great Western Wines for 12.70
Q. Can you recommend an easy
starter that will still impress my
wife? James Doodson, Bath
A. Insalata Caprese, or tomato and
mozzarella salad it's simple Italian
food at its best and won't take more
than five minutes. Be sure to use vine
ripened tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella
(it's the closest we get to fresh
mozzarella in this country) and a good
quality extra-virgin olive oil. Slice the
tomatoes and mozzarella and
arrange on a plate
alternating them to
make a circle. Season
with salt and freshly
milled pepper,
drizzle with the
fruity virgin oil and
finish with a few
leaves of torn basil.
Ask achef
(?)
R
onnie Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnies Restaurant
in Thornbury. Ronnie has had a distinguished career working in
some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe,
for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Cooking
for national and foreign royalty and dignitaries honed Ronnie's skill
and further reinforced his lifelong commitment to food. His menus
showcase the best local produce, earning the restaurant its title as
the Good Food Guides Restaurant of the Year.
Q. Whats the secret to a perfect poached egg? Claudia Walker, Cotham
A. Fresh eggs! You cannot cook a perfect
poached egg with old eggs. Bring some
water to simmer, add a tablespoon of vinegar
which helps the white to remain firm. Crack
the egg into a small ramekin and pour the
egg gently into the simmering water. Cook
for 3 to 4 minutes and gently lift from the
water, drain and serve. Do not stir or whisk
the water and do not add the eggs while the
water is boiling rapidly. Use a little finesse
and it's actually quite easy.
Ronnie Faulkner
T: 0800 849 4455
W: www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
Q. What's a summery alternative to a
Sunday roast? Paul Womar, Hanham
A. It's not the joint that should change
to accommodate the warmer weather
but the garnish. Try serving your
Sunday roast with a warm salad of
summer greens tossed in a vinaigrette
and using new season potatoes in the
skin, gently boiled and rolled in parsley
butter. The sauce should be light too.
Make your gravy the usual way from the
caramelised
meat juices on
the bottom of
the roasting
tray, but whisk
it into a light,
fruity
vinaigrette
instead of
thickening it.
Q. Does it matter what kind of wine
I use in cooking? Hannah Little, Cheddar
A. Yes is the simple answer. White wine is
often used to give soft acidity while reds are
used to give body and richness. Always
reduce the wine to remove the alcohol and
find a wine you enjoy drinking while you
cook with it. Youll soon notice how a spicy
Shiraz adds quite a different note compared
to a budget Merlot.
AskAChefq7:Layout 1 4/9/10 14:56 Page 37
38
> flavour reader review
ROCKFISH GRILL &
SEAFOOD MARKET
BY CATRIN GRIFFITHS, PORTISHEAD
Dodging the British summer downpour, a
warm smile greeted us when we arrived at
the Rockfish Grill. We were swiftly taken to
our table, a booth next to the window. From
the classic crisp white tablecloths and
padded leather seats, to the selection of
charming photos of fisherman with their
catch of the day that adorned the walls, the
dcor oozed character.
The renowned local chef, Mitch Tonks, owns
the restaurant and his passion for seafood
is clearly reflected in the menu. A variety of
tempting dishes were available to choose
from including two types of oysters, smoked
eels and Cornish lobster. The wine list was
extensive, offering most wines by the glass
and included local ales and cider. We opted
for the Prosecco Rustico, which was
delicately dry and lightly sparkling (5.50
per glass).
Delicious smells greeted us from the open
kitchen while we examined the menu. We
decided on two courses for 15 from the
lunchtime menu, both choosing the Megrim
sole with anchovy and capers. It was
without a doubt the best sole Ive ever had.
A generous portion cooked in butter to
perfection, with the fish effortlessly falling
from the bones. Sweet new potatoes
smothered in butter accompanied the sole.
The caper sauce was the icing on the cake,
with the vinegar in the sauce bringing out
the sweetness of the fish. Not many words
passed during the main course, as every
mouthful was savored, and for two Welsh
women that was quite a triumph!
After the success of the sole, I couldnt help
feeling a little disappointed with our chosen
dessert, the summer berries, meringue and
cream (5). The ingredients were clearly
fresh and the strawberries were delicious
and sweet, but there could have been a few
more of them. While the meringue in parts,
was quite hard and extremely chewy.
That aside, I was really impressed with the
Rockfish Grill and thoroughly recommend
seafood lovers to sample their delights
immediately!
Tell us about your favourite place to eat
by writing to us at the usual address or
emailing faye@flavourmagazine.com
Well even give you oneyears free
subscription for your troubles!
R
E
A
D
E
R
R
E
V
I
E
W
Rockfish Grill & Seafood Market
128 Whiteladies Road
Bristol
BS8 2RS
01179 737384
www.therockfishgrill.com
Reader Review:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:20 Page 38
> flavour a perfect day
The quest to organise your dream event might seem
an impossible task, but after searching high and low
weve discovered that perfection is not so hard to find...
39
day
A
perfect
39-46 Events:Layout 1 04/09/2010 14:44 Page 39
40
Cotswolds88 Hotel and Restaurant
Tucked away in one of the timeless side
streets of Painswick you will find
Cotswolds88, one of the gems of the
countys historic country hotels.
In its three years, it has established itself
as one of the regions prime venues for
unforgettable events, whether its a
bespoke wedding, corporate banquet or
black tie social affair.
The 18th Century Palladian house with
panoramic views over the surrounding
Cotswolds countryside has been
extensively altered by a succession of
architects, including the famous Detmar
Blow, whose descendants still live on the
family estate near the town. In 2007 it
was given a 4m refurbishment and
makeover by a top international interior
designer who gave it its unique cutting
edge modern style. And, to back up the
boutique style, the head chef is none
other than internationally renowned Lee
Scott who has cooked for such A-List
celebrities as Tom Cruise, Madonna,
Eddie Murphy and Jim Carrey. The hotel
now boasts four AA stars and two AA
rosettes for its restaurant, the highest that
can be awarded on an initial inspection.
The hotel has already been rated one of
the 60 top new hotels in the world by
Conde Naste Traveller, the independent
travellers bible.
Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner,
traditional Sunday roast, and the
ultimate afternoon tea.
T: 01452 813688
W: www.cotswolds88hotel.com
one of the regions prime venues for unforgettable events, whether its
a bespoke wedding, corporate banquet or black tie social affair

41
Clavelshay Barn
the perfect option for a tailored wedding

that wont cost the earth
Clavelshay Barn offers the ideal

venue for a simple country wedding
in a beautiful, natural setting. The
delicious food is fresh and local and
the service is very personal, offering
the perfect option for a tailored
wedding that wont cost the earth.
Even though Clavelshay do not have
a license to marry, they can hold a
blessing or humanist ceremony in
the grounds. Choose from cream
teas or sit down menus to evening
buffets and hog roasts, with drinks
tailored to what you want.
Marquees are also available for hire
from simple tents, perfect for the
more rustic style wedding, to larger
marqees with a few more details.
T: 01278 662629
W: www.clavelshaybarn.co.uk
Aperfect day
Lusty Glaze
Lusty Glaze offers the perfect venue for
a beautiful wedding reception, birthday
party or corporate event. Surrounded by
stunning coastal scenery and
breathtaking views, you can watch the
sun go down in magnificent style all in
the comfort of your own private sandy
cove on the North Cornwall coast.
Whether its a wedding or a birthday
party, you can hire out your own
marquee or even take over the whole
beach to a menu catered to your own
wishes. Beach games and activities can
be arranged, keeping kids and grown
ups entertained at all times too!
T: 01637 872444
W: www.lustyglaze.co.uk
42
42
Kings Weston House
Celebrating its 300th birthday this year,
Kings Weston House is the perfect venue
for bespoke events. Offering experience,
traditional values and excellent service
Kings Weston House prides itself on its
reputation of first class service and
entertainment befitting such a grand
venue.
The impressive three-storey Portrait
Gallery offers a spectacular welcoming
entrance and is an ideal room for
reception drinks. The Great Hall, a
unique room which houses a
spectacular suspended staircase offers a
breathtaking entrance for a wedding or
civil partnership and the superb
acoustics make it a perfect room for
evening musical entertainment. The
Vanbrugh Room, a beautiful light and
airy room with views across the Severn
estuary, is the largest dining room and
can cater for 120 people dining as well
as being a popular choice for
conferences.
Whatever the room you choose, Kings
Weston House offers the opportunity to
hire it individually as well as on an
exclusive basis for both private and
corporate events. All the catering at
Kings Weston House is provided by our
in-house team of experienced chefs
offering you a tailor-made menu to suit
your taste buds.
T: 0117 938 2299
W: www.kingswestonhouse.co.uk
Kings Weston House prides itself on its reputation

of first class service and entertainment

43
Set in 15 acres of secluded woodland
and garden, Berwick Lodge provides a
stunning and unique location for your
wedding or conference, offering a
totally bespoke service to make your
event truly special.
Berwicks tailor-made wedding service
includes a personal menu consultation
with Head Chef Chris Wicks, who will
help create your own special wedding
menu. Weddings can take place within
the beautiful main house and dining
rooms or in an adjoining marquee. The
venue hire includes private use of
Berwicks 10 luxury en suite bedrooms.
For a conference venue with a
difference, Berwick has opened the new
Mews Conference Suite which offers a
flexible range of space including a large
ground floor conference area or a
separate private room on the first floor
which is ideal for select business
meetings or small conferences.
T: 0117 958 1590
W: www.berwicklodge.co.uk
The Berwick Lodge Event Experience
Aperfect day
Mortons House Hotel is an
enchanting 16th Century Manor
in the picturesque village of
Corfe Castle, in the heart of the
Isle of Purbeck. The World
Heritage status of its Jurassic
coast, together with beautiful
beaches, stunning countryside, history, geology, and
wildlife make it a must-see location. The Elizabethan
Room is an ideal suite for a romantic stay, with a
beautiful antique four-poster bed, original fireplace, spa
bathroom and lounge area. The 21 room hotel and
restaurant have received a string of awards, including
Small Hotel of the Year from South West Tourism.
T: 01929 480988 W: www.mortonshouse.co.uk
Mortons House Hotel
With an extensive range of menus from finger and fork
buffets to banquets and barbecues, there is something
for everyone. Plenty of friendly advice and suggestions
are available for every aspect of your event.
Experienced chefs and staff ensure everything runs
smoothly and your guests are properly looked after,
leaving you to enjoythe occasion. Were passionate
about the quality and provenance of our ingredients,
sourcing seasonal produce from local suppliers.
Whether youre planning a large gathering or a small
family occasion, well suit your budget and taste to
help make yourevent a memorable experience.
T: 01275 333308 W: www.toplinecatering.co.uk
Topline Catering
44
44 44
Nibbled Catering specialise in bespoke
catering for all occasions and can
suggest exciting ideas for menus and
events whilst taking into consideration
your requirements, including your
theme, budget or occasion. Nibbled
offer a full catering service and can
organise marquees, venues, flowers,
china, cutlery, glassware, linen and
waiting staff as well as a fully licensed
bar. Their freshly prepared, locally
produced and seasonal foods are a
huge hit. So whether you have a
wedding or corporate event in mind,
they can assist you by providing a
professional service with delicious food
to be remembered.
For a free quote please contact Theresa
on 01225 851072 or email
hello@nibbledcatering.co.uk
Nibbled Catering
Bringing highquality food and excellent
service to your event is priority. Head
chefMarco will create your menu with
fine dining expertise, and is committed
tousing locally sourced produce
wherepossible withaccess to the
finestquality ingredients.
Catering for all occasions fromintimate
dinner parties to larger winterweddings
and corporate events, youreally can sit
back and relax safe in theknowledge
that Taste Buds will take careof all of
your catering needs. Taste Budsalso
offer exclusive private chef hire
servicewhere they will come out to
your homeand treat you and your
guests even doing the washing
upafterwards!
T: 01172 309897
W: www.taste-buds.co.uk
Taste Buds Catering
a professional service with delicious food

45
Lockside
On the edge of the Avon Gorge, with
great views of the Clifton Suspension
Bridge,Lockside is an ideal venue for
birthday parties, civil partnerships,
weddings, corporate events or just an
excuse to get together. Itcan cater for
any special occasion up to 75 people.
Tailored around you, your celebrations
will be with your party exclusively and
will be exactly as you want them to
be.
Perfectly intimate for that private dining
experience with tailor-made menus and
personalised service,it's an ideal venue
for a special daythat you and your
guests will always remember.
T: 0117 9255 800
W: www.lockside.net
Lettuce & Lovage was set up by Jo
Trendall, a Bristol-based restaurant-
trained foodie, to raise the bar on
outdoor catering events. She teamed up
with two chefs equally passionate about
using the freshest produce from locally
sourced suppliers to bring restaurant
quality to your perfect event. So if
youre looking for a catering company
that will tailor-make a five course menu
for a beautiful wedding, or simply
require a caterer for a humble dinner
party, they know how.
T: 0117 985 6767
W: www.lettucelovage.co.uk
Lettuce & Lovage Catering
bring restaurant
quality to your
perfect event.
Aperfect day
46
The Mount Somerset Hotel is situated in
the most tranquil of locations amidst
beautiful countryside with easy access to
the A358 and the M5. The newly and
beautifully restored function rooms offer
a touch of opulence for any occasion.
Enjoy the elegant furnishings; stunning
views and warm atmosphere as the
dedicated staff work hard to ensure your
experience is a special one. Renowned
for its excellent cuisine, whether its for
an intimate dinner for two or a family of
up to 72 people, or indeed a corporate
event for up to 100, this stunning hotel
promises you an event to remember.
T: 01823 442 500
W: www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk
Mount Somerset Hotel
this stunning hotel promises you

an event to remember
Aperfect day
Folly Farm is a stunning 250-acre
nature reserve close to Bath and Bristol
thats owned and managed by Avon
Wildlife Trust. In recent years, theTrust
successfully restored the unspoiled
18th century buildings with the help of
the Heritage Lottery Fund, Biffaward
and the South West Regional
Development Agency. Amongst others,
facilities now include farmhouse
accommodation, a multi-use reception
space and a conference centre.
So whether its birdsong and
wildflowers in spring and summer,
apple trees and golden leaves in
autumn or wood smoke and wide skies
in winter, heres a wedding and party
venue for all seasons.
T: 01275 331590
W: www.follyfarm.org
Folly Farm
a wedding and party

venue for all seasons

on the grapevine
47
> flavour wine offer
Tony Wellings of Catalyst Wine Services
spent the last two summers touring the
country and promoting his finds from
around the world. His latest discoveries
include two wines from New Zealand
O:TU Sauvignon Blanc 2009 from the
world famous region of Marlborough, and
Mount Rosa Pinot Noir 2008 from further
South.
This small sub-region of Marlborough, in
the Awatere Valley where the Sauvignon
Blanc is produced has a longer, cooler
growing season than elsewhere -
producing wines of elegance and
complexity, with a mineral finish not that
dissimilar to Sancerre.
Dont just take our word for it though. Only
in its fourth vintage, the producer has
already won Gold Medals in Japan and
Sydney as well as being voted Australian
Winestate Magazines best Kiwi Sauvignon
in 2008.
For New Zealand reds, Pinot Noir is fast
coming to the fore. The Mount Rosa estate
was created ten years ago when Jeremy
and Guy decided to give up sheep farming.
It turned out the southerly latitude, steep
sided valleys and fairly high altitude,
provided ideal conditions to produce this
notoriously difficult to grow grape.
This Pinot Noir exudes redcurrant and
wild exotic fruit aromatics, followed by a
warm, rich and spicy texture with lively
acidity, freshness and a lasting finish.
Great for those cold nights ahead
This month, flavour is celebrating two
New Zealand wines showcased at this
years Bristol Wine and Food Fair with
an exclusive reader offer.
flavour has teamed up with online retailer
Smithfield Wines to offer readers a mixed
6 bottles (3x75cl of each wine) for a price
of just 70 delivered to your door. Thats a
saving of 7.96 (over 10% off normal
retail) plus the normal 6.50 delivery
charge that does not apply.
Go to www.smithfieldwine.comand click
on the Flavour Magazine Offer icon.
Enter the promotional code FLAVOUR1
and order your half case today!
O:TU was voted Winestate Magazines
best Kiwi Sauvignon in 2008.
flavour wine offer:Layout 1 04/09/2010 14:11 Page 47
> flavour forging the new world
Tasting the wines, its easy to
see how the years of
experience have translated
into fantastic tasting
products. The Bonterra
Organic Viognier is delicious
an elegant, aromatic wine
with classic apricot flavours.
A great alternative for
Sauvignon Blanc lovers. Try it
at the enchanting 16th
century Manor House Hotel
in Moreton in Marsh with
their goats cheese starter. The wine is
perfect for cutting through the richness of
the food without overpowering it.
www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk/
property/the_manor_house_hotel
A different style of white wine from the
range is the Bonterra Organic Chardonnay.
Not as heavy on the oak as some
Australian or Burgundy Chardonnays,
there is a delicate balance between
oaky vanilla flavours and lots of citrus
and tropical fruit. This wine needs some
more robust food to match up to it such
as pork belly with truffle pomme
puree. You can find this in the
award-winning restaurant at
Chiseldon House Hotel, a beautiful
country house set in the stunning
Marlborough Downs just outside
Swindon.
www.chiseldonhousehotel.co.uk
A Californian range of wines
wouldnt be complete without the
regions star grape the Zinfandel.
Bonterra Organic Zinfandel is a
great example of classic
characteristics deep purple in
colour, rich and spicy with plum and
blackberry flavours. Not as heavy as the
powerful Bordeaux reds, this is a lovely
partner to rich game dishes, including duck.
Try the pan roasted duck breast with orange
and cranberry sauce at the Bluebird
Restaurant in Lymington, all wooden beams
and homemade dishes tucked away down a
little cobbled street on Lymington Quay.
www.bluebirdrestaurant.co.uk
A great example of the more powerful
style of red wine is the Bonterra Organic
Merlot. The wine spends over a year
maturing in oak barrels which gives
it robust flavours of chocolate,
spice and black fruits. Roasted red
meats are key here to stand up to
the luscious flavours and rack of
lamb with Cumberland sauce could
well be the perfect pairing
especially when enjoyed in a good
old fashioned inn full of character
like the Old Church House Inn in
Torbryan, Devon. Find a quiet
corner and tuck in.
www.oldchurchhouseinn.co.uk
48
Organic and sustainability are two well-
known buzz words of the moment. Despite
many traditional practices in the
winemaking industry, many vineyards have
been re-examining their methods and
adapting a more eco-friendly way of
working. This isn't because it's trendy to do
so, but because the growers claim it
enhances the flavour of their wines. Given
the double digit growth that the organic
wine market has seen over the past few
years, there must be some truth in their
statements as the UK public keeps coming
back for more!
Organic certification basically means
chemical-free farming including no
fertilisers. In the wine industry, a type of
organic farming known as biodynamic is
another current buzz word which goes way
beyond organic farming alone. Biodynamic
farming involves balancing the relationship
of the soil, plants and animals with as little
external input as possible to maximise the
environment in the vineyard. Incredibly, it
goes as far as working with lunar and
cosmic cycles to ensure the plants are
producing the highest quality grapes
possible.
forging the
new world
With a nod to Bristols Organic Food Festival this month we are focusing on a range of
such organic wines. Bonterra wines are based in Mendocino in California and
their vineyards and winemakers live and breathe the organic way of life. In
their words, following natures timetable. As one of the first major vineyards
in the region to commit to organics and the first to receive the Soil Association
accreditation, their expertise in this area has paved the way for other
wineries to follow.
Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years
experience in the drinks industry, consulting with
hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK.
She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET
London Wine and Spirit School.
Wine:Layout 1 04/09/2010 14:02 Page 48
49
> flavour forging the new world
The Fetzer Pinot Grigio is unsurprisingly
popular with the enormous growth
trend in this grapes sales in the UK.
Light and crisp, with pink grapefruit,
apple and lime a great summer
choice. The trick with Pinot Grigio is to
keep the food simple and not too heavy
or the wine will be lost. You cant go
wrong with a bowl of mussels and
some bread to mop up the juices
and where better to experience
this than the fun loving, surf
themed restaurant Hot Rocks on
Bournemouth Pier. They have a
great selection from both the
Fetzer and Bonterra ranges along
with a coastal cuisine inspired
menu which just begs for some
serious experimentation!
www.hotrocks.com
When youve finished at Hot Rocks, make
your way round the corner to Ocean Palace
Chinese Restaurant. Rich Chinese duck
dishes need floral aromatic whites to
partner with and Fetzers Sauvignon Blanc
is definitely up to the challenge. Try the
classic crispy duck pancakes with Hoisin
sauce and Im sure youll agree!
www.oceanpalace.co.uk
Fetzers Shiraz Rose is bang on trend
for the growing sales of drier,
refreshing rose wines. A lovely deep
colour and lots of fruit flavours makes
this a great wine to drink alone or with
food. At super-smart Lanes Restaurant
and Wine Bar in Weymouths historic
harbour you can do either. Why not try a
mixture of tapas dishes such as
chorizo, chilli and garlic king prawns
and bruschetta with a chilled glass.
www.lanesweymouth.co.uk
Our last wine but by no means least is
another Merlot, from Fetzer,
made in a different style to the
Bonterra Merlot. Soft and
subtle, the result is a fruit
driven wine which goes
beautifully with slighter lighter
red meat dishes, creamy
sauces and mushrooms. Try
the beef medallions with
mushrooms and truffle
mash at the Old Bank
Brasserie and Bar in
Swindon a great
combination to enjoy while
listening to one of the bars
live jazz nights perhaps.
www.tobb.co.uk
Above: panorama of biodynamic
vineyard in Sonoma, California
Although Fetzers vineyards in California does not have organic status, they are no less committed to
the sustainable farming cause. Their investment in renewable energy is testament to this 100% of
the energy used within the winemaking process is generated from sources such as solar and wind.
Laid back doesnt begin to describe the attitude its about interfering as little as possible along with
recycled water and glass to support the environment whilst making some great tasting wines.
Wine:Layout 1 04/09/2010 14:02 Page 49
50
> flavour say cheese!
This month, were looking forward to the
Great British Cheese Festival and
celebrating the very best cheeses from across
the UK. Here are some of our favourites
Caws Cenarth Cheese
Established in 1987, the Welsh cheeses have won more than 40
major awards including three times Soil Association Supreme
Champion and three times Best Welsh Cheese at the British
Cheese Awards. Visitors are welcomed to visit the familys organic
farm to view the cheese-making from the special gallery.
01239 710432
www.cawscenarth.co.uk
Sleight Farm
Situated high on the hills overlooking Bath and Bristol,
Sleight Farms herd of goats was established in 1976.
Production is seasonal the goats graze all summer, and
are fed hay in the winter.
Most of the milk is used for the production of Tymsboro,
a lactic curd cheese inspired by traditional French cheeses.
During the summer months other cheeses are produced,
notably Old Ford, a matured hard goats cheese
reminiscent of Mediterranean cheese.
01761 470620
Tymsboro
This raw milk cheese has a silky smooth texture, breaking
down a little at the edges. Its lemony and nutty flavours
are creamy in spring and autumn, and more intense in
summer.
Golden Cenarth
A mild, but complex washed rind
miniature cheesepresented in its own
wooden container. Winner of Soil
Association Dairy Class 2010 - wonderful
as an oven-baked starter for two.
Cenarth Perl Las
A blue-veined cheesewith a rich,
creamy texture. The mellow and
distrinctive flavour makes it a perfect
choice for the cheeseboard. Try it
melted on a sirloin steak.
Cenarth Perl Wen
A soft, white rinded cheese with a very
creamy texture and a delightful aroma
and flavour. A big favourite in Wales.
Say
Cheese!
The Great British Cheese Festival returns to scenic
Cardiff Castle for another year. Its the largest UK
cheese show and a cheese lovers dream with over
450 British and Irish cheeses on offer.
Not only do you get to taste and buy from this
magnificent selection but visitors can really get
involved by creating their own champion cheeseboard
in the Hall of Champions, and playing cheesy games
including Cheese Skittles and Cheese Tossing!
The Great British Cheese Festival is at Cardiff Castle
on the 25th-26th September.
www.greatbritishcheesefestival.co.uk
Say
Cheese!
Cheese Fest:Layout 1 04/09/2010 14:27 Page 50
51
> flavour say cheese!
Butlers
Farmhouse
Cheese
Cheese-making has been in the blood of
the Butler family for three generations
today its in the capable and enthusiastic
hands of Gillian Hall, granddaughter of
Richard and Annie who started the dairy
in Lancashire in 1932.
Cows milk comes from the familys own
farms on the doorstep of the dairy whilst
Gillians niece, Nicola manages the
families herd of 1000 cheeky goats which
live a couple of miles down the road at
Sheardley Fold Farm.
01772 781500
www.butlerscheeses.co.uk
Bath
Soft Cheese
At Park Farm. Kelston, halfway
between Bath and Bristol , Graham
Padfield has 160 organic Friesian cows.
As well as the original Bath Soft
Cheese, his family make a range of
cheeses including the delicious Wyfe of
Bath. This old fashioned large, basket-
shaped cheese has this year, won Gold
at the Royal Bath and West Show, and
Gold at the International Cheese
Awards, Nantwich.
01225 331601
www.parkfarm.co.uk
Blacksticks Blue
A unique soft blue veined
cheese with a distinctive
amber hue, it reveals a
delicious creamy smooth
yet tangy taste. Adding
perfect colour to any
cheese selection, its an
upbeat British classic
truly different to other
blue cheeses.
Ravens Oak Goats Cheese
A smooth and soft goats
cheese, made in small
rounds rather like a
Camembert. Handmade in
small batches, this
distinctive cheese offers a
subtle flavour of almonds
and white wine, developing
a greater depth as the
cheese naturally matures.
Creamy Lancashire
cheese
Mild and creamy in taste,
this is a very versatile and
popular everyday
Lancashire cheese.
Handmade at Inglewhite
Dairy in the traditional
way, each cheese is cloth
bound and matured for
three months.
Bath Soft Cheese
This marvellously soft, gooey and
flavoursome cheese has a mushroomy
coat and a dreamy interior. This cheese is
made to an ancient recipe dating back to
the time of Admiral Lord Nelson, whos
recorded as receiving a gift of two Bath
Cheeses from his father in 1801.
Wyfe of Bath
Succulent and bouncy, this semi-hard
cheese is redolent of buttercups and
summer meadows. Wyfe of Bath takes its
name from Chaucers Canterbury Tales
and, like the tale, when you cut into a
Wyfe of Bath you will see, smell, and
taste that true beauty lies within.
Cheese Fest:Layout 1 04/09/2010 14:28 Page 51
52
> flavour chef profile
Chef profile:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:46 Page 52
53
> flavour chef profile
Name: Christian Abbott
Originally from: Warwickshire
Head Chef: Banglo, Bath
My style of food hasn't changed since I was
Head Chef at the Graythwaite Manor Hotel
in Cumbria. I still have the same level of
passion here that Ive had in all my other
jobs, I just hadto incorporatea style of
cooking that suits our currentclientele but
also something that gets new customers
intrigued and shows off my food. Everything
is fresh, seasonal, modern and British here.
I moved to Bath for the access to fantastic
produce such the beef from Ashdale Farm,
which is some of the best I have ever used.
Its tender and always of a consistently high
quality. Although not strictly from the West
Country, Im also a fan of micro herbs too
red amaranth being a favourite. It tastes of
beetroot and is the same colour. Micro
coriander looks very pretty on the pts as
well.
Banglo is a relaxed, trendy and friendly
place. I really want to keep that atmosphere
and progress with the good work that has
been started. We have Sundays down to a
fine art, being praised for offering the best
roasts in Bath. Ultimately we want those
comments for every day of the week. We
also offer the venue for events which are
really taking off now. Clients discuss their
menu with me and then I make everything
on site, right down to the scotch eggs! If we
can cater for it, we will.
Banglo is a family-run business Robbie,
who looks after the place, has a passion for
catering and hes always keen to get
involved. Hes so good with the customers
and works his heart out for this place. His
attitude is priceless to any bar or
restaurant. He leaves me to get on with the
menu however, I devise everything myself
depending on what the local suppliers can
bring.
Im over gourmet cooking. banglo works
well because we fall somewhere in between
fine dining and home cooked food which
looks great. Its refreshing to be able to
offer Bath something a little bit different.
I love the work Gordon Ramsay does. His
cookbook Just Desserts is a favourite at
home. He achieves Michelin stars by
cooking really good food with a small
amount of ingredients. Although his recipes
arent really designed for the beginner, you
can get creative with them. No dish is the
same twice; its not about replicating a
recipe, its about the execution. People
should just have a go at cooking, see what
works and make it your own dont be
scared if it doesnt look like the picture.
I wouldnt do anything else apart from
cheffing. It keeps you on your toes and you
are challenged everyday. I would
recommend it but only if you are prepared
to work hard and be dedicated. Too many
give up too easily.
Banglo Bar & Restaurant,
44 Lower Bristol Road
Bath
BA2 3BD
01225 345442
www.banglo.co.uk
chef profile
Chef profile:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:46 Page 53
at Park Farm, Kelston
(
just 2 miles west of Bath on A431
)
Visit our
Cheese
Shop
Beautiful award winning
cheeses, hand-made on the
farm and full of natural
goodness from our organic
herd of fresian cows.
GOLD
Royal Bath & West Show
2 010
National Cheese
Awards
GOLD
Nantwich Show
2 010
International
Cheese Awards
The Bath Soft Cheese Co.
Park Farm, Kelston, Bath BA1 9AG
Telephone: 01225 331 601
Email:sales@parkfarm.co.uk
www.parkfarm.co.uk

Dont forget to check our
website for more information
on events coming
up this year!
Winsley, Bradford on Avon
BA15 2JB
[t] 01225 864948
www.hartley-farm.co.uk
54 Hartley/BathSoft:P.52 5/8/10 22:50 Page 1
55
> flavour lucknam park
Hrishikesh Desai is head chef of
Lucknam Parks Brasserie and was
the winner of last years prestigious
Roux Scholarship.
Serves 4
Ingredients
600g white fish, cut into large chunks
1 lemon
12 black cardamoms, lightly crushed
meduim sized cinnamon stick
4g turmeric
3g ginger, finely minced
3g cumin seeds
1 fresh green chilli
100g unsalted butter
litre tomato juice
50gm tomato puree
40g peas
40g broad beans
12 baby carrots
Half bunch of coriander, finely chopped
Salt, to taste
Sugar, to taste
Method
1 Cut the fish into chunks and season with
salt and lemon.
2 Melt the butter on a medium heat in a
large pan, add all the spices and cook for a
few minutes the ideal sign of cooked
spices is the swelling of cardamoms and
cinnamon stick.
3 Add the tomato juice and puree and cook
the gravy on a low heat with a lid on the
pan, stirring frequently. Once it comes to a
gravy-like, thick consistency, season with
salt and sugar to cut the acidity.
5 Blanch the vegetables in salted water and
add to the sauce.
6 To cook the fish, arrange the marinated
fish in a casserole or pie dish and pour the
hot gravy on the top. Cook at 180C for
approximately 15 minutes until the fish
starts flaking.
7 Serve with basmati rice.
This dish is from the northern parts of Kashmir and the style of cuisine is called 'Wazwaan',
which was introduced in the 15th century by the Emperor Timur. The chefs who specialised
in this cuisine were called 'Waza' and there are very few left who still practice it. It often
comprises 36 courses and only the Waza have the right to taste the finished courses before
it leaves the kitchen.
Throughout October Hrishikesh will
showcase the diverse flavours found in
traditional Indian cooking that first inspired
him. Using ingredients and spices from the
contrasting regions of India, diners will be
taken on a culinary journey of this
spectacular and romantic country.
The Spice Route of India event will include
a 3-course menu with a choice of 3 dishes
for each course,
for 27.
For further information or to book your
reservation at The Brasserie please call
01225 740 576 or visit
www.lucknampark.co.uk
Wazwaan
Fish Stew
Lucknam:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:54 Page 55
Garden Design Studio, Middlecombe Nursery, Wrington Road, Congresbury, North Somerset BS49 5AN
01934 876355 / 07990 572698 www.bluestonewater.com
Earth, fire and water are the three elements that make up Bluestone, a garden design and build service which
provides a full garden living experience. Through Bluestone, owner Ben Pike brings together his two passions;
outdoor entertaining and beautiful garden design, enabling you to live at the heart of your own rural retreat.
Based at Middlecombe Nursery in Congresbury, North Somerset, Bluestone provide a friendly and professional
service, from concept through to completion.
E A R T H F I R E WAT E R
56 Bluestone-Neston:P.52 04/09/2010 16:00 Page 1
57
> flavour drops by
Whilst the highs and lows of country life can
send some city dwellers running back to more
comfortable capital surroundings, for others, it's
just their cup of tea. Lady Fuller, owner of the
beautifully restored Neston Park Farm Shop in
Wiltshire, is one such converted welly wearer:
Ten years ago I was living in London running an
art gallery, I had no idea I would be where I am
now chasing cows and giving nature trail
walks!
Beginning life through a meat box scheme, the
farm shop soon grew to incorporate a deli,
butchers, caf, bread and wine collection as well
a stunning cheese selection headed by national
cheese judge, Jenny Gane. Outside, a courtyard
of tables allows customers to watch the
Aberdeen Angus cross Jersey cows grazing. This
elegant herd are just one of the many offerings
at the farm; pigs, chickens and ducks will also
keep the whole family entertained. We can trace
every animal from birth to slaughter, safe in the
knowledge that they have had the best life
possible. Our farm manager Sandy Macfarlane
and cowman Paul Fry love them like children!

Browsing through chef Mark Nacchis lunch time
menu is enough to whet anyone's appetite. The
Great Taste Awards have given Gold to the shops
homemade salami and faggots, and their scotch
eggs and sausage rolls are in constant demand:
One gentleman from Norwich phoned up for
four weeks in a row for Scotch eggs. We had to
keep posting them out, but its great to be in the
position to do that!
The farm offers a nature trail that children can
follow to learn more about the countryside.
Theyre guided around to learn about the
important role bees play in the eco-system,
followed by a lesson in the shop on cows which
provide the beef honey influences local produce.
According to Lady Fuller, The future without
doubt is to move forward with the educational
programme. We want to work with local schools,
helping to teach the next generation about
farming and sustainability.
What lies at the heart of the farm shop are
values that are reminiscent of any English
country village; the time it takes to care about
people. Neston Park is something for the
community and we dont just want customers to
be clients, but friends. If it seems that no one
has time anymore, Neston is a haven to catch up
on a few hours and rejuvenate, whether thats for
a life in the fast lane or the country pathway.
Neston Park Farm Shop
Bath Road
Atworth
Wiltshire
SN12 8HP
01225 700881
www.nestonparkfarmshop.com
flavour
drops by...
neston
park farm
shop
Flavour Drops by q7:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:14 Page 57
www. s t ant onhous e. c o. uk
The Avenue,
Stanton Fitzwarren,
Swindon SN6 7SD
Tel: 0870 084 1388
Fax: 01793 861857
restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk
Rosemary Restaurant
Japanese Sunday buffet lunch
All you can eat dinner on
Thursdays
Japanese la carte menu
Afternoon cream tea
on the patio
Stanton House Hotel Stanton House Hotel
58 Stanton-BathPriory:P.52 4/9/10 16:08 Page 1
>flavour dirty girl diary
TIME TO THINK PIG
The RSPCA has launched a new
campaign asking consumers to
Think Pig as they do
their weekly shop.
The UK is a
nation of pork
lovers last
year we spent a
whopping 1.2
billion on bacon.
Yet, the majority of the
160m pigs raised annually in Europe
for meat experience terrible living
conditions during their lives. This
includes highly restricted pens, no
bedding and having to sleep on
slatted floors, castrations without
anaesthetic and untreated illness and
infections such as ulcerated lesions
or cuts on their flesh.
The Think Pig campaign has a simple
checklist to help consumers buy
higher welfare according to their
budget. Look out for the Freedom
Foods logo and if this isnt available,
buy free range, outdoor reared or
outdoor bred. Also, check your
favourite brand has signed up to a
new voluntary code by going to
www.rspca.org.uk/thinkpig.
A happy pig is a healthy pig!
DirtyGirl
DIARY
Known for giving the big two to the big four, Rebecca Sullivan is a staunch soldier for the green
revolution who worked on the launch of both the Real Food Festival in London and Slow Food Nation
in San Francisco. Picking up her London life six years ago, Rebecca recently moved to a smallholding
in the Cotswolds to embark on various foodie adventures such as digging trout ponds, building
smokehouses, installing beehives and making jam for her community-supported agriculture project
Dirty Girl Kitchen. With her finger firmly on the pulse, each month Rebecca gives recommendations
that no foodie should be without...
COOL AS A CUCUMBER
The last time I used a cucumber it was over my eyes in a home beauty treatment.
However, now that mine are ready to harvest from my garden, they will be put to
much better use. My greenie goods reached an impressive 40cm in length this year
and will be used in everything! The cucumber is actually a highly nutritious
vegetable. Not only is it high in vitamins
A and C, folic acid and potassium, it
contains silica, which is good for the
skin, and helps prevent fluid retention.
Cucumber is part of the squash family,
which includes the similar-looking
marrow and courgette. My favourite way
to preserve the crispy, crunchy
cucumber for the months to come is to
simply pickle it. Try it at home, its
super simple.
59
Dirty Girls Cucumber Pickle
1kg cucumbers
3 small red onions
1 tsb chopped dill or fennel (your
choice)
250g granulated sugar
1 tsb salt
200ml cider vinegar
1 Slice the cucumbers and onions as
thin as you can (or use a food
processor) then combine the onions
and cucumber slices with the dill or
fennel in a large mixing bowl. Mix the
sugar, salt and vinegar and pour over
the cucumber mix. Leave overnight
for the best result or at a bare
minimum 3 hours, as the flavours
need to mingle.
2 Pack into an airtight container or in
wide necked jars and store in the
fridge for up to four weeks. Beware,
they are addictive!
HARVEST FESTIVAL
The Real Food Harvest Festival, an all-new event
celebrating the abundance of British autumnal produce,
will be making its appearance at Londons Southbank
Centre from 23-26 September. Bringing together around
120 producers, a top line-up of chefs, livestock and
entertainment to an expected 50,000 people, The Real Food
Harvest Festival offers a fantastic opportunity to taste and
buy the very best the UK has to offer. Oh, and its free!
www.realfoodfestival.co.uk
DirtyGirlDiaryq7:Layout 1 4/9/10 14:58 Page 59
60
> flavour garricks head
Garricks Head
Theatre Royal
7-8 St. Johns Place
Bath
BA1 1ET
01225 318 368
www.garricksheadpub.com
garricks
head
These are places where such distractions
as comfort and decoration are eschewed;
where middle-aged, bearded men sit
wearing T-shirts from a beer festival
attended in 1986; where the only food on
offer is a packet of pork scratchings; and
woe betide you if you have the temerity to
ask for a coffee or sheer heresy a glass
of wine!
Fortunately, the truth is that, while such
pubs do exist (and I confess I love them),
there are more and more venues in which
offering a selection of well-kept ales is
merely an extension of the desire to provide
the highest quality sustenance and the best
possible surroundings to customers of all
types.
One such pub is The Garricks Head in St
Johns Place in Bath. Thought to have been
a pub since around the turn of the
18th/19th century, it forms a part of a truly
palatial building. Named for David Garrick,
the actor, playwright and all-round thesp
who frequented the city more than 200
years ago and whose friend Bishop
Warburton lived at nearby Prior Park the
pub may even predate the opening of the
Theatre Royal next door.
It is also thought to have been the home of
Richard Beau Nash, a still greater figure
in the history of Bath. As Master of
Ceremonies from 1704, he was at least in
part responsible for Baths transformation
from medieval walled city to the social
Mecca of the eighteenth century and
beyond. He is commemorated at nearby
Bath Abbey.
These days, the Garricks Head is a pub
and dining room, with diners attended to in
the ornate restaurant area to the left as you
enter. The kitchen was fully refurbished in
August, and the Garricks Head continues
to offer an imaginative and well-thought
out menu. Ingredients are sourced from
West Country suppliers (Pan-fried Cornish
mackerel with samphire and mussels in Ivy
Farm cream, anyone?) and this dedication
to local produce extends to the beers on
A common perception of real ale pubs is that to be any
good, they have to be 100% exclusively at-the-expense-of-
all-else fundamentalist real ale churches where only the
truly devout can worship.
Garrick's Head:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:25 Page 60
61
> flavour garricks head
offer in the bar area to the right.
With its bare wooden floors, dark wood
furnishings and feature mirrors, this is just
the sort of bar where you can imagine the
literary giants of old supping a pint of ale
and exchanging witticisms about the fops
and dandies parading outside. There is a
ceiling-height blackboard boasting a
bewildering array of wines by the glass or
bottle, and three (sometimes four)
handpumps on the bar boasting ever-
changing local ales.
The combination when I visited, of a pale
ale, a best bitter and a dark old ale
demonstrated an understanding of the
need for variety in beer selection. Buildings
of this age and construction tend to lend
themselves well to temperature control.
This, along with the quick turnaround of
beers, ensures your pint or half is always
fresh and eminently quaffable.
A notice on the blackboard behind the bar
proclaims We gurt loves our ciders and
this is evidenced by Worleys Whole Juice
cider, a Somerset special made using
traditional methods, as well as the
fearsome Broadoak Perry and the gentler
Pheasant Plucker.
Hosts Charlie & Amanda Digney manage to
strike the balance between an impressive,
even imposing building, and a relaxed and
friendly informality. Whether youre having
a pre-theatre meal, or popping in for a
drink and a break from shopping and
tourist activities, this is a cracking example
of a pub that offers a decent pint and a
whole lot more besides.
Raise a glass to...
Palmers Best Bitter (4.2%)
From Dorset. Have a waft of this mid-
brown bitter under your nose before
tasting. That fruity aroma gives a real
clue to the charm of the beer. On
tasting, youll find the bitterness is
nicely understated, with the malt
coming to the fore.
Box Steam Dark & Handsome (5%)
From Colerne in Wiltshire. A strong
dark ale with a hint of those old sweet
shops where you bought things by the
quarter pound! Definitely
blackcurrant in there, and lemon,
even liquorice allsorts. But all
presented in a smooth and creamy
beer.
Exmoor Ale (3.8%)
A citrus, zesty pale ale with a clean
crisp taste. Smells to me of lemon or
even grapefruit, but the hops come
through in the end too.
The beers listed here were available
at the time of our visit, but change
frequently, so may very well not be
the ones on offer when you visit.
A regular contributor to
CAMRA magazine Pints
West, Duncan Shine
champions the virtues of
real ale and traditional
cider. Hes also editor of the website
britishpubguide.com
Garrick's Head:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:26 Page 61
The Blue Bowl Inn, Bristol Rd, West Harptree BS40 6HJ
Tel. 01761 221269
www.thebluebowl.co.uk
The Blue Bowl Inn
Country Pub & Restaurant
Good food, well kept ales
and a warm welcome!
THE LOVELIEST
fISH &cHIpS
In THE
SOUTH WEST!
Papas Fish Restaurant and Takeaway ~ 20 Waterloo Street ~
Weston-Super-Mare ~ BS23 1LN
Telephone: 01934 626565 ~ Visit: www.papasukltd.com
fish restaurant
anD taKeaWaY
papas
Independently voted by
Daily Mirror readers as the
Best Fish & Chips in the South West!
~
Recent winners of
The Regeneration Partnership
and Weston Mercury and
Star FMs Business of the Year
Award
Fruit
Vegetables
Dairy
Bread
Quality ingredients for restaurant
kitchens in the West Wilts and
Bath area. Local produce grown
exclusively for us including
specialist crops.
If you are passionate
about your food wed
like to talk to you
01225 708838
lovejoys@live.com
Lovejoys
Melksham
We only use the purest spirits blended or distilled with the
finest natural ingredients, resulting in the smoothest, most
delicious drinks suitable for drinking neat, over ice, in a
cocktail, or as an ingredient in delicious food dishes.
Tel: 07902 209532 Web: www.fabulousvodka.co.uk
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V
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62 BlueBowl-Vodka-Lovejoys-Papa:P.52 04/09/2010 15:50 Page 1
Figs are small and luscious fruits, with a
chewy texture and a very sweet smell. A
member of the mulberry family (Ficus
Carica), they first originated in Northern
Asia. The Romans were avid lovers of the
fruit and considered it a gift from the
fertility God Bacchus. It is also believed
that the fig was Cleopatras most loved
fruit. Whatever the rumours may be, it is
certainly one of my favourites and with it
being crammed full of natural nutritional
goodness ideal for our growing children, its
not hard to see why.
A rich source of calcium and potassium,
figs help to maintain healthy bones and
provide an excellent source of calcium that
is beneficial to those who are lactose
intolerant. Theres also good news for
dieters as they are low in fat and high in
fibre, providing more fibre than any other
common fruit or vegetable. Also, look to
figs for a good source of iron, magnesium
and vitamin B6.
What is not so well-known about the
humble fig is their ability to promote good
sleep through a nutrient called tryptophan,
which also helps the brain use glucose
properly. Being the fruits with the highest
levels of natural sugars, figs provide us
with an excellent source of energy all day.
Good news for all of us!
Figs can be used for savoury or sweet
dishes. One of my favourite dishes using
figs is with a salad, which is always a
winner with my kids. Full of fresh flavours
and very colourful, this only takes minutes
to make.
63
> flavour sin blunos
COOKING
FOR COCO
Like most busy mothers, Sin wanted to
feed her baby well, but didn't have a lot of
free time on her hands. Her solution was
to develop recipes using a wide variety of
fresh, available foods, which could be
batch-cooked and used to stock the
freezer. Now, she always has a range of
delicious dishes on hand, and you can too.
With a little care and planning you can
give even the youngest of children the
experience of good, fresh food, which is
tasty and nutritious.
To order a personally signed copy
of Cooking for Coco for only 8.50
(including postage), RRP 9.99,
email sian@blunos.com
Baby leaf salad
with Serrano
ham, fresh figs
and orange
segments
Serves 4
2 bags of prepared mixed
baby leaf salad
6 figs quartered
250g Serrano or Parma ham, thinly
sliced
50g pecorino, parmesan or manchego
(whichever you can buy)
2 tbsp virgin oil
2 tsp balsamic vinegar
1 large orange segmented (keep the
juice)
1 Simply put the salad leaves on a
large plate; arrange the figs, ham and
orange segments on top of the leaves.
2 With a potato peeler shave the
cheese over the ham and figs
3 Whisk together orange juice, oil and
vinegar and dress the salad just
before serving.
Chef, food writer, author and
mother Sin Blunos is passionate
about childrens health and their
eating habits, and believes that
expanding your knowledge of food
can only help benefit your child.
F
R
U
I
T
F
R
U
I
T
know your
FRUIT
Sian Blunos:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:19 Page 63
64
> flavour reader survey
1. I am...
Male Female
under 20 21-25 26-35 36-45
46-55 56-65 66-75 75+
2. How often do you buy a food magazine?
Never 0-2 times a month
3+ times a month I have a regular subscription
3. Have we got too much or not enough of the following?
Too much Just right Not enough
Recipes
Restaurant reviews
Interviews
Current affairs news
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Food and travel
Farm and producer information
Reader interaction
4. What are your favourite things about flavour?
The design/layout The editorial content
Chef profile Recipes
The size Paper quality
Imagery Restaurant
Product recommends
5. Would you be interested in reading about these in future issues?
Dinner party recipes Farming and producers
New cooking equipment Seasonal foods
Food festivals Foodie things to do with kids
6. Have you visited places or purchased products you have seen
featured in flavour?
Yes No
7. How often do you holiday in the South West?
Never Sometimes Often
8. How often do you do the following?
Eat out
Visit country pubs
Try out new food products
Try out new recipes
Pay more for quality food and drink
Entertain at home
Attend food festivals
9. On average, how much money do you spend in your household
on food and drink per week?
Below 19 20-39 40-59
60-79 80-99 100-150 150+
10. How often do you shop online?
For cookware
For food and drink
For homeware
11. I am interested in the following:
Short breaks Updating my kitchen
Food/venues for weddings Cook and housewares
Using outside caterers Wine
Cookery courses Restaurants
12. Are there any great foodie places that you would love to see
featured?
WIN! A bread-making course at
The Foodworks Cookery School!
Foodworks Cookery School are offering one lucky flavour
reader a day withglobetrotting artisan bread-maker Maurice
Chaplais. Your course includes coffee in the morning, a buffet
lunch with a complimentary glass of wine and a bag full of
your own delicious breads.
For your chance to win, send this questionnaire back to us
along with your name, address and phone number: Flavour
Magazine, 151-153 Wick Road, Bristol BS4 4HH
over to you...
Name:
Email address:
Please sign me up for the flavour monthly eNewsletter!
!
64 Questionnaire:Layout 1 04/09/2010 16:34 Page 64
Serves 4
For the lamb
600g lamb neck fillet
6-8 shallots
2 cloves garlic
1 red pepper
Handful chopped dried apricots
teaspoon cinnamon
teaspoon cumin
Pinch of Cayenne pepper
Handful fresh mint
Handful fresh parsley
200ml tomato juice
Handful flaked almonds
Zest 1 lemon
Juice of lemon
4 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
For the warm lentil salad
150g dry-weight Puy lentils soaked
overnight
1 courgette
cucumber
1 clove garlic
Juice of lemon
Teaspoon clear honey
Tablespoon olive oil
Handful fresh mint and parsley
2 tablespoons natural yogurt
Salt and pepper to taste
1 Chop the lamb into bite sized chunks.
Also finely chop the shallots and garlic
and roughly chop the red pepper. Place
all prepared ingredients in a plastic food
bag with the spices, lemon zest, dried
apricots and almonds and leave for at
least 1 hour or ideally, overnight.
2 Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed
saucepan and fry the contents of the bag
briskly until the lamb browns. Add the
tomato juice, lemon juice and chopped
herbs and cook for a further 5-10
minutes
3 For the salad, bring a saucepan of
water to the boil, add the lentils then
simmer for 10 minutes or until lentils
are tender.
4 Grate the courgette and cucumber and
finely chop the garlic, place in a bowl
with all the remaining ingredients. Drain
the cooked lentils and mix with the cold
ingredients to make the warm salad.
MOROCCAN LAMB WITH A WARM LENTIL SALAD
This one pot dish is tasty, entirely seasonal and comforting. Its preserved by so many
herbs, spices and a bit of seasoning that it will keep well for a day of walking. If youre
cooking it at home, try it with monkfish or pork.
65
> flavours food heroes
Feeling inspired by our talented readers, each month flavour will be
looking at the unsung heroes of the foodie world you! This month
we talk to Stewart Mahoney who is a gourmet on the go
> Whether you want to give us your favourite brownie recipe or have a friend who breeds
their own pigs, please email faye@flavourmagazine.com or call us on 01179 779188.
D
espite being a hardy nation when it
comes to the weather, only a rare
few follow Ray Mears example by
heading into the wilderness during the
chillier months.
One such intrepid traveller is Stewart
Mahoney, eager food enthusiast and
camper critter. Stewart is ingenuous
enough to pack up the kitchen necessities,
set out on his travels and create great
dinners within natures kitchen, much to
the delight of his camping friends. Stewart
comments: My friends used to laugh at me
for pulling out pre-prepared dinners from
my rucksack. Now, its just expected that I
bring the food.
Stewart has become renowned for his
fishing tackle box. Inside youll struggle to
find anything useful for a fishing trip but
instead everything you need to create
delicious meals wherever you are,
including mini cubes of parmesan, small
containers of pre-prepared stocks, herbs,
spices and oils.
Travelling around the country and picking
up different recipes since the age of 15 has
influenced this Keynsham-born boy with
the creativity and spontaneity so evident in
his food. Start by growing your own, even if
the only space you have is a sunny
windowsill to grow some parsley on. Dont
forget natures garden either why spend a
fortune in the supermarkets when you can
do a bit of rummaging and pick it fresh, for
free?
So next time you think about embracing
your more adventurous side, leave the tin of
beans at home and plan a meal that you
look forward to getting back to your tent for.
flavourS
foodheroes
Signature Dish Signature Dish
FoodHeroes:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:30 Page 65
66
> flavour food for thought
This paradox, this polarisation, this curse of
the bizarre modern world we live in, sums
up the entire mess we have gotten
ourselves into. And its set to get worse. If
this is one vision of the future, what else
have we got to look forward to? Ive had a go
at predicting where we are all heading and
its not comfortable reading:
Commodities will become the oil of the
future, if they already havent. A trader
recently bought 241,000 tonnes of cocoa
beans sending prices to their highest level
since 1977. Scarcity (real or generated) is
great for business. Hoarding food reserves
or burning coffee fields to restrict supply
will become the norm.
Similarly, natural disasters will wipe out
huge swathes of crops. Concentration of
commodity production in certain areas of
the world will mean
poorer nations dont grow
food for themselves,
because they cant afford
to. This will lead to greater
levels of starvation when
crops fail or are destroyed.
The world will become
increasingly addicted to
fertilisers and pesticides.
As I write, BHP Biliton has
made a $39 dollar bid for
Canadian fertiliser firm
PotashCorp. One of the
worlds most powerful purveyors of scarce
materials wants to buy a fertiliser company.
Think about it.
More foods will be grown artificially,
either as a result of the now barren land, or
because of something more sinister. The
worlds hunger for meat will be fulfilled by
growing proteins in controlled
environments. Genetics will allow us to
grow artificial chicken; perhaps even at
home.
Cloning will become the norm and GM foods
will enter all elements of the food system.
Global organisations will begin to patent
nature, forming rights over genetically
modified seeds and even livestock this is
already happening in the US. As these
elements mix into the natural organic food
chain they will launch legal actions to
control organic production, citing misuse of
patents.
Green taxes will be placed on meat
producers as a result of methane concerns.
Livestock will be fed modified foods and
producers forced to rear them indoors. Bio-
fuels will increase prices of all foods, as
land is turned over to fuel production.
The polarisation between rich and poor
diets will become even greater. Richer
nations will have the greatest levels of
disparity. Sadly, this will echo socio-
economic categories and lead to epidemic
levels of obesity, heart disease and the new
killer, diabetes, within the poorer
communities. Crippling costs will drain
health and social services from those that
need it.
Supermarkets will control around 95%
of food consumption. They will also
control around 80% of farmland, as
economies of scale become the only way
to make agri-business work. Mass-dairy
farms and enriched indoor environments
will become the norm and there will be
just three slaughterhouses throughout
the entire UK.
Am I scaring you? Because, let me tell
you, Im trying to. You are the only
person who can do anything to stop this.
Eat your own food, clean your plate, buy
local, seasonal and ethical, and educate
your children. Take exercise and enjoy
every mouthful of food you consume.
Your future depends on it.
to the future
Welcome
In a world where around one
billion people are overweight
and a further one billion are
undernourished, Nathan Budd
weighs up the cost of making
the grass greener
A B L E A K O U T L O O K ?
Food For Thoughtq7:Layout 1 4/9/10 15:00 Page 66
67 Boniti:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:35 Page 1
Telephone: 0845 475 0145
www.chefforallseasons.co.uk
If youve got a special event coming up or are simply after
a dinner party to remember, then why not hire a private
chef to cook for you in the comfort of your own home?
Our chefs are on hand to cook whatever whets your ap-
petite.They'll construct a menu with you and give you those
little tips gleaned from years of expertise in the trade.
We'll also send a waitress and take care of all the washing
up, so all you have to do is concentrate on sitting back and
enjoying your evening.
Chef For All Seasons recently catered for my dinner party of 16 guests.
They went out of their way to help me, providing three exceptional menus
to suit my budget - the food was excellent and exceeded all my
expectations. Both the chef and the waitress were a pleasure to have
around, they found their way around the kitchen and left it cleaner than
when they arrived! Thanks for a most enjoyable evening; I just need an
excuse to have another dinner party now!
Helen Nash
LET US BRING THE RESTAURANT
TO YOUR DOOR!

68 CFAS:P.52 4/9/10 15:03 Page 1
4
> flavour news
this month
If you have any news or events
that you would like to share with
us here at flavour then email
enquiries@flavourmagazine.com
A ROYAL VISIT
The Prince of Wales
is embarking on an
eco-friendly tour of
the UK to promote
sustainable living
by visiting various
green projects
around Britain.
HRH will be promoting the START initiative
in Bristol, joining shoppers around a
special eco-living exhibition in Cabot Circus
and meeting community groups including
the Bristol Cycle group. Hell arrive on the
royal train, which in keeping with the ethos
of the tour, runs entirely on bio-fuel.
VICTORY FOR RONNIES!
Crowds gathered recently at St Nicks Market to watch flavours resident chef Ron
Faulkner (pictured right) go head to head with Berwick Lodges Johnny Evans in a
new Channel 5 programme called Street Market Chefs, due to air this month.
Under the watchful eyes of the public and a panel of tasting judges, the two
competing chefs prepared a two-course menu of local and seasonal fare in the
hope of taking home the title. On eventually being crowned the winner, Ron
Faulkner said: I was delighted, not only for myself but for the whole team as its a
positive reflection on them too theres a real sense of pride whenever we get a
good review or win an award like this.
To celebrate their victory and their 3rd birthday, Ronnies are offering one lucky
flavour reader the chance to WIN a Champagne dinner for two. To enter, simply
email: competitions@flavourmagazine.comstating your name, address, phone
number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!
www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
WINNERS
TIGHTEN YOUR BELTS
Economists have warned that food price
inflation could hit 9% by the end of the year.
It is believed that recent rises of more than
12% of basic commodities such as wheat
up by 60% in the past 3 months will be
passed on to consumers by the autumn.
Over the past year, food prices have gone
up by 3%, with prices of potatoes, onions
and cauliflowers recording the sharpest
rises. High wheat prices caused by poor
Russian and Canadian harvests are also
expected to push up the cost of meat, dairy
products and bread.
Congratulations to Susan
Burton from Bristol who has
won a pair of tickets to Love
Cooking festival!
Congratulations to Caroline Ross
from Corsham who has won an
overnight stay for two at the
Crowne Plaza Hotel in Marlow!
04-05 News:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:09 Page 4
CHUTFEST
A celebration of all things
preserved! Swap your homemade
chutneys with fellow enthusiasts
and taste the delights of
Barrington Courts annual food
fair. Visitors can also get in a
pickle and enter their
concoctions into a competition to
win a day with award-winning
chutney makers Tracklements.
This years Chutfest takes place
on 2 and 3 October.
www.nationaltrust.org.uk
SUCK OR CRUNCH?
Britain might like to think of itself as the nation
that invented good manners, but according to
a new study, weve shed our traditional stiff
upper lip and become a sensual food nation.
A third of Brits admit forgoing cutlery and
eating food with their fingers and one in six
of us even lick the plate! Researchers also
say the way we eat sweets also reveals
our character suckers are strategic
and calm, whereas crunchers are
impulsive and competitive.
5
> flavour news
DELMONICO
Bristol's stylish venue Delmonico is gearing
up for winter parties with its elegant private
dining room, offering complete privacy for
up to 30 guests. Chef Tyrone Tippins and his
team are constantly changing the menus to
move with the seasons, based on fresh
ingredients prepared simply.
The small, expertly selected wine list
includes classic French wines and
champagne, as well as more unusual
bottles from around the world. The list acts
as the perfect complement to the array of
Anglo-French cuisine on offer, as well as
some more contemporary flavours with
American, Asian and Italian influences.
01179 445673
www.delmonico.co.uk
WIN! A YEARS SUPPLY
OF ORGANIC EGGS!
Promising eggs on your plate within 24
hours and conforming to the highest
Soil Association standards, family-run
organic company Eggsilicious are fast
becoming a household name. Egg
lovers will be glad to know that the
Wiltshire farm is not only home to
happy, free-roaming hens, but also
sources quail, duck and goose eggs
too!
To WIN a dozen organic eggs every
month for a year, simply email:
competitions@flavourmagazine.com
stating your name, address, phone
number and where you got your copy of
the magazine. Good luck!
www.eggsilicious.co.uk
04-05 News:Layout 1 04/09/2010 13:09 Page 5
Please recycle this product.
6 In Season
Tom Bowles and Stuart Ash
bring you the best of the
season's produce
4 WIN!
A champagne meal for two at
Ronnie's Restaurant!
12 James Martin
The chef who changed
Saturday morning TV
20 Food From Plenty
Diany Henry on the art of
frugal feasts
34 Bistrot Coco
A corner of France in the heart
of Cheltenham
12
Competition Terms & Conditions
In addition to any specifically stated terms and
conditions, the following applies to all competitions.
All information forms part of the rules. All entrants
are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to
be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry
drawn at random from all the entries sent back after
the closing date and will be notified by either post,
email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they
are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be
offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old.
Competitions are open to UK residents only. One
entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of
entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries
lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to
take part in any publicity material relating to the
competition. The name of the winner will be
published in the next edition. The judges decision
is final and no correspondence will be entered into.
Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such
as travel). All prizes are subject to availability.
Please state if you do not wish to receive any
further correspondence from flavour or competition
organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.
flavour magazine provides effective communication
through design. We specialise in brochures,
corporate identity, advertising, direct mail,
marketing and design for print.
We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to
communication problems for a number of corporate,
sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients.
We maintain the highest of standards, throughout
each individual project and our client relationship.
We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs
and ideas that will get you noticed.
For more information, please contact
Peter Francomb
Tel: 01179 779188
Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com
20
contents
Editor:
Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com
Editorial Assistant:
Faye Allen
Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com
Art Director:
Chris Jones
Email: design@flavourmagazine.com
Advertising:
Miranda Coller, Director of Sales
Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com
Kate Gardner
Email: kate@flavourmagazine.com
Debbie Wylde
Email: debbie@flavourmagazine.com
Photography:
Misha Gupta, Daniel Hewison, James Walker
Contributors:
Stuart Ash, Martin Blunos, Sin Blunos, Tom
Bowles, Nathan Budd, Helen Aurelius-Haddock,
Sarah Hurn, Rebecca Gooch, Duncan Shine, Ron
Faulkner, Clare Morris and Rebecca Sullivan.
Flavour Magazine
151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH
Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com
Please send any comments or suggestions
to the publisher at the above address.
For general enquiries:
Peter Francomb
For competition entries:
Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com
Copyright 2010 flavourmagazine.com
All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced
without permission of flavour. While we take care to
ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate,
flavourmagazine.comaccepts no liability for reader
dissatisfaction arising from the content of this
publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are
the views of the individual authors, and do not
necessarily represent the views or policies of
flavourmagazine.com
Welcome to the
September issue
of flavour!
If the fly-on-the-wall documentary that
followed Vogues formidable Editor-in-Chief
is to be believed, putting together the
September issue is not an undertaking for
the faint hearted.
Predicting key autumn trends renders it
one of the most important issues of the
year within the industry, and by extension,
one of the bulkiest. Having produced the
official Organic Food Festival show guide
which features as a supplement this month,
I can confidently say that flavour has, for
one month only, something in common with
the worlds best-known fashion magazine!
Bristols Organic Food Festival is one of the
largest events of its kind in Europe and
celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, a
year that promises to be the most exciting
to date. In our own celebration of all things
green, weve been down to Rod and Bens
farm in Exeter (PAGE 28), finding out the
truth behind raw organic milk (PAGE 47)
and unearthing some of the New Worlds
leading lights in organic and biodynamic
wine production (PAGE 48).
We hope you enjoy reading this issue and
the show guide as much as weve enjoyed
making them.
Happy Eating!
welcome
Contents:Layout 1 04/09/2010 12:50 Page 3

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