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CD How To Build A Slotcar Track
CD How To Build A Slotcar Track
6
.
5
'
8 ft. board
8 ft. board
8 ft. board
8 ft. board
9 ft. board
Cutting out Turns
Making your turns is quite easy once you have fgured out my cutting pattern
above. First, you need to make a CUTTING TABLE to do the work on. If you are
building more than one track, and you have the room, you can make this a separate
item from your primary work table. Or, it can be the main work table for all your
projects during the track construction and assembly. Tis table can be as small as 4x8
but is better to be a bit bigger to give more room for laying out a 4x8 piece of MDF
leaving some work room around the edges. You can see from the drawings above a 9
x5 example table with 4x8 MDF boards on it as an example. First of all, you need to
know that you can cut out almost any turn from a 4x8 piece of 1/2 MDF. You will
see in the frst illustration, the 12 ft. radius turn uses a 9 ft. board ... HOWEVER....
If you are very careful and position the 8 ft. board perfectly, a 12 ft. turn piece can
be cut from a 4x8 board. I recommend you use a string and pencil to perfectly mark
it out frst and then do the cutting. Tis is the only size where this is necessary.
Only the two outer radius tips of the turn are clipped of this way, and are not really
needed as part of the racing surface. If you mark it out with pencil and get it perfectly
aligned, you will see that it will work. In our factory, speed was more important than
saving wood, so we just made all 12 ft. turns from a 9 ft. piece. You will also see that
on a 16ft. Piece, the corners are very close but with perfect alignment, it fts easily.
All other turns ft easily in a 4x8 piece.
When doing the actual cutting, you will want to position your turn piece on the
work table. Place your TRAMMEL JIG with the bottom hole positioned so that the
router will make the outer cut. You can make a permanent bolt for the trammel to ft
over, or simply use a dry wall screw and screw it in place. It is a good idea to scratch
the surfrace with your router bit, making the moves with the router of to be sure of
your position. Te inner curve is cut in the same manner, moving the trammel down.
Tere is not really much need to practice. You ll be a pro after you cut the 2nd piece.
Align centered from side to side
and 12 from bottom.
Align 9 from the left side
and 3ft from the bottom.
Align 7 down from the top
and 14 from the left side.
Align all the way to the top
and 10 from the left side.
8
Dead Strip Notes:
The dead strip is that part of your track that is used to count laps and do timing of each lap. It is the
mechanical Start and Finish even though you may have your start line in a different area. You want the
dead strip to be in an area where the cars usually do not de-slot. After a turn, a few feet down a straight,
or even in a big bank where cars go whizzing by but never come off. Not a good idea to have the dead strip
in front of the drivers since you might have someone who will try and use a coin or (?) to short out the strip
and give fake laps. (I know... not your racers!) In the gap between the live braid and the dead strip, you
need to leave about 1 inch so the braid from the car will not make contact with both at the same time. This
will cause so many problems I cant count them.... Nor will your counter either. When you decide on your
lap counter, you may find it uses other options for counting laps other than a dead strip. Look to its instruc-
tions for things like Magnetic Reed Switches, Photo Cells, or LED emitter/collector diodes.
Drivers Stations Notes;
Commercial tracks usually have a long board with drivers stations scattered down its full length.
I have never used this type of drivers panel even though it is the easiest way to do it. Drivers when
possible need to have their backs to a wall with a minimum of 3 feet of distance between the track
and the wall. This gives the drivers a great over view of the rest of the raceway, and gives specta-
tors a great view of the guys in competition.
For each drivers area, simply drill 3 holes in the side of the track in a triangle pattern as shown in
the illustration. Use standard bolts, or better yet, brass bolts and nuts for each terminal. Make the
distance between each bolt farther than a fully inserted alligator clip will reach. (No shorts) Make
the far left one white, the middle one black and the far right one red. This is different than the origi-
nal American tracks and moves the positive and negative wires to opposite sides... again to reduce
the possibility of shorts. Radio Shack has small inexpensive LED lights you can mount in this area
to show that the power is on for the lane. Also a good idea is to use 10amp circuit breakers in the
brake circuit at the Red bolt connection. See wiring notes on how to connect wires and circuit
breakers. Fuses could be used, but are SO much more trouble and costly to replace.
Small plastic baskets (obtainable from a dollar store) can be attached nearby for controllers, etc.
These can be painted in the lane color as well. See pic below (taken before baskets were painted.
Filling the holes.
Two schools of thought here: one (my favorite) is to leave all the countersink screw holes just as
they are and cover well when painting the surface. I recommend 2 to 4 coats of satin fnish exterior
latex acrylic enamel. About $14.00 per gallon from Wal Mart.
2nd idea is to fll all the screw holes. For this I recommend using a good grade of acrylic spackel.
This is a very lightweight fuffy, very white mixture. Almost looks good enough to eat and easy to
use with no special tools. Safe for fngers. Easy to sand and very durable when painted over. I do
NOT recommend the type of spackel that is light brown and very heavy. It will work, but is too hard
to sand. Same for the mix it yourself Durahard putty. Some like it, but the fnal results are acheived
much easier with the lightweight spackel.
Side note on Bondo. Smells great, very fast to work with. Hard to sand, and way too much overkill
for this job.
Live dead
dead
Live
Live
Live
21
Chapter 9 Asssembly Notes
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20
Chapter 9 Assembly Notes
ABOVE: Cutting out the outside edge of a 10 ft. turn on a 4x8 work table. Trammel
is positioned with the router cutting 5 ft. back from the bottom where the trammel is
fxed with a screw. Turn piece is screwed down to work table so it wont move while
being cut. BELOW: pivot point has been moved so that the router cuts out the lower
part of the turn. If this is a totally fat turn with zero banking, you can eliminate
this process and leave the bottom of the turn uncut. Save the cut out piece as it will
become an INFIELD for the fnished product.
9
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Assembling the Legs
Even a Crude jig like this is fne for putting the triangles together to make your legs.
Above, you see an unpainted triangle screwed down to the work table. It is used as
a stop for the top leg piece with the left side and bottom of the table used as left and
bottom guides. Place the top pre-painted leg piece up against your stop with the left
tip aligned with the edge of the table. Ten place the bottom pre-painted leg piece on
top of it, with the left and bottom aligned with the table. With just a little care, you
can get your legs square enough for starters without a complicated time consuming
process. Drop in two 1 inch screws and repeat the process until you are out of pre-
painted pieces. You will have a large pile of legs to work with when you are done. See
pics below. Left: fnished legs. Middle: attaching Ts to track. Right: attaching legs
to Ts. Dont forget to use your slot jig when screwing down Ts to bottom of track
pieces. You dont want to put a screw where you will be running the router later.
10
Chapter 4 - Assembling the Pieces
Chapter 8 Electrical Notes
SUGGESTED WIRING DIAGRAM FOR MILD POWER SYSTEMS. By John Ford
Batteries are best located behind the counter near the time sellers. One 6ga. wire goes from the
neg. pole of battery to the left side of the braid, on all lanes. Eight 12ga. leads go from the positive
pole of the battery, through the time sellers, to the white post at the 8 corresponding drivers panels.
Then, from the black post at the drivers panel, one 12ga. wire goes to the right side of the braid at
the corresponding power tap. And finally, the red post at the drivers panel connects back to the
neg. pole of the battery at the easiest point to connect it.
This circuit allows the current to flow from the negative pole of the battery straight to the motor
on the car, out the right side of the braid to the black post on the drivers panel, up through the
controller and down through the white post at the drivers panel, through the time seller, and finally
back to the batterys positive post.
The theory here is that it is better for your system to have all the switches (controller, time
seller, track relay) on the back side of the circuit. This is a proven wiring diagram that has been
used in hundreds of applications since it was first developed back in 1972. I wish this could
become the industry standard for mild power applications.
If you want a track disconnect relay (and you will need one if you plan to hold races), you simply
place the relay switch between the positive pole on the battery and the time sellers. A double pole
switch such as the Dayton part # 3X748 priced at $15.28 from W.W. Grainger Inc. For the number
of the Grainger nearest you, call 1-800-323-0620.
Direction of travel
+
_
Battery
Drivers panel
White Black
Time Seller
Braid
Right Left
Red
Minimum 6ga.
negative bus to
all taps, all lanes.
Not a
connecting
joint. Typical point for
installing track
power relay.
19
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NOTES: You can use the track power
batteries for this circuit, it is a common
practice and perfectly acceptable.
However, it is my opinion, that an
inexpensive seperate 12 volt power
supply (available from Radio Shack) or a
seperate small battery is ultimately the
best for this circuit. This will keep the
mega amps available at the track batteries
away from this circuit, and eliminate the
possibility of major damage in case of a
short.
SUGGESTED WIRING DIAGRAM FOR TIME SELLER / TRACK POWER RELAY SYSTEMS By John Ford
Both the relays and time sellers used in this circuit are available from W.W. Grainger Inc. There are two relays that
I recommend. If you want what I call burn power you must use the Dayton relay, part # 3X748 in the Grainger
catalogue. Its price is listed as $15.28. It is a double pole relay, and you can have a total of 60 amps capacity on
each lane by using both sets of contacts. If you simply want hot power, you can get 25 amps capacity with the
Potter Brumfield relay, part # 4A076 in the Grainger catalogue. Its price is listed as $13.51. It is a single pole relay.
Both these relays are high quality, and long lasting (I know some in use over 20 years) and I recommend them
highly. The only tip I can give you is that even though these are brand new relays, the contacts will have to be
cleaned with fine sandpaper or crocus cloth before you use them. Possibly even a little adjustment will have to be
made to them to make them work properly in the beginning. Once they are working and making contact, they rarely
need servicing.
The time sellers in this circuit are also available from Grainger, part # 2E270C. Its price is listed at $12.72.
For the location of the W.W. Grainger nearest you, call 1-800-323-0620.
Anine or 10 conductor 18, 20, or 22ga. wire commonly used for doorbells, thermostats, or alarm systems is best
for this circuit. 8 conductors will be used for the 8 lanes, and any wires left over will be used for the commons.
This circuit follows the normal negative to positive flow of any D.C. circuit, taking the current straight to the coils
of each of the 8 relays. This can be accomplished by just running a common line to one side of all 8 relays, and
connecting the loose end to the batterys negative terminal.
On the other side of each of the 8 relays, you will need 8 seperate wires leading to one side of each corresponding
time seller. (for example, the relay to the red lane would connect to the time seller for the red lane etc.)
After you have the 8 wires run from the relays to their coresponding time seller, you should have one terminal on
each time seller still with nothing connected to it. All you need to do here is again run a common line to each of the
remaining 8 terminals on the time sellers and connect the loose end back to the positive side of the power source.
Now when you turn on the red timer, the red lane relay should click, allowing power to flow through red the track
circuit. Naturally the same should be true for the other 7 lanes.
+
_
Battery
coil
contacts
From positive pole
of track power source.
To white post
at drivers panel.
Chapter 8 Electrical Notes
relAy noTeS:
Te relays you see used in this booklet are
available through Radio Shack and some
Auto Supplies. Or, you can order through
me at $5.00 each while they last. Te
ones I have were designed for the lighting
system on Dune Buggies competing in the
Baja Race in Mexico. Very rugged with
two 30 amp gold plated contacts.
If you want to purchase the ones I have,
email me at johnford@slotmail.org
18
Left Is what
you should
have with
your Ts and
legs attached
to the bottom
of each piece
of track. Now
it is time to
fip each piece
over and re-
peat the pro-
cess until you
have all your
pieces sitting
on legs.
Now, it is be-
ginning to look
like a track.
Continue the
assembly of
each piece until
you have all the
pieces attached.
You will want
to be careful
to get one side
of the tracks
edges lined up
at the joints so
the router will
have a smooth
path to make
on its frst run
cutting the frst
slot.
If you are building a
totally fat track, you
can completely assemble
all the pieces at this
point. You should have a
totally fat surface if you
have gotten all your legs
properly assembled us-
ing the leg assembly jig
shown on left page. If
however, you are going
to bank any of the turns
on your track, you will
need to attach the fnal
pieces AFTER you have
routed the eintire track
up to the fnal joint.
11
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If you are building your track at home, you may get some extra help whether you need
it or not. Fortunately, they dont ask for much pay, but get plenty of time to relax
after working so hard.
With your pieces asssembled, it is timee to install your Stifs and Bloks. Above
shows the placement of the Bloks around each turn the closer the better, and as you
can see here, it will take a lot of these Bloks to do an entire track. Tey can be made
from almost any scrap pieces left over from cutting the 2x4s.
Te Straights get the Stifeners or Stifs.
Tis process is much easier and you can
cover lots of space much more quickly than
when installing the Bloks. Te process is
the same, using a small air tack hammer and
Plenty of glue. After you have fnished each
one, you can come back with a damp rag
and wipe of the excess glue. if you do not
have this much excess glue, you are NOT
using enough. Remember, the tacks are only
to hold the piece till the glue dries.
3
12
Chapter 8 Electrical Notes
these are the things we have to consider when wiring a slot track. iF YoU are
PUtting in a coMMercial oPeration, YoU have the tiMe sellers, which go behind the
coUnter to consider. iF it is a hoMe track, these will not be in the circUit Unless
YoU want theM. as Far as track connections go, YoU have the red, black & white
connections at the drivers Panel. YoU have the relaY at the drivers Panel. YoU
have the track itselF, & FinallY YoU have the batterY.
First lets talk aboUt the batterY. here, YoU onlY have two connections. the nega-
tive side oF the batterY goes straight to the leFt side oF the braid, direction oF
travel. the Positive side oF the batterY goes straight to the white Post on the
drivers Panel. (iF YoU are Using tiMers and relaYs, see notes on relaY below)
next, lets talk aboUt the track itselF. this is easY, we jUst hooked all the nega-
tive braids (leFt side direction oF travel) to the neg. side oF the batterY. now the
right side direction oF travel oF each lane goes to its corresPonding drivers
Panel black Post.
the tiMe seller Panel is Made UP oF 8 individUal tiMers. a siMPle exPlanation here
is that YoU shoUld have 9 wires coMing oUt oF YoUr tiMe seller Panel. one wire
rUns as a coMMon to each tiMer and then on to the negative Pole oF the batterY.
then each oF the 8 other wires goes to their resPective lanes relaY at the drivers
Panel. theY hook UP to the west terMinal. (see relaY notes below.)
RELAYS....
the drivers Panel relaY has 5 connections. theY are labled
at leFt as north, soUth, east, west, & the one leFt over we
call center. (SEE ILLUSTRATION AT LEFT.)
n goes to Positive Pole at batterY
s goes to white terMinal at its drivers Panel
e goes to north connection on relaY.
w goes to corresPonding color coded wire coMing FroM
tiMe sellers. the center goes onlY to one side oF the Panel light.
note: north is the side with the Plastic tab and MoUnting hole. west is the side
with the wiring diagraM Printed on it.
the drivers Panel has 3 Main connections. red, white, black.
(See illuStration at left).
it is best to keeP the white and red aPart since this is YoUr +
& - connections.
REd goes to the negetive Pole oF the batterY. (can be coM-
Moned to all drivers Panel red connections on its waY to the batterY.) note: see
circuit breaker notes below.
whitE goes to the soUth connection on the relaY.
bLAck goes to the braid on the track, right side direction oF travel.
as a Final note, drivers Panels can be enhanced with the addition oF a Panel light
and a circUit breaker. these notes shoUld clear UP how these devices hook UP in
case theY becoMe disconnected, or need rePlaceMent.
pAnEL Light notES:
the Panel light has one lead that connects to the cen-
ter Post on the relaY, and the other lead connects to the cir-
cUit breaker at the Point where the red wire (brake) lead connects.
ciRcuit bREAkER notES: the circUit breaker connects in line between the nega-
tive side oF the batterY, and the REd Post at the drivers Panel. YoUr brake wire
will now attach to the oPen lUg on the breaker. when the breaker triPs, the track
still has Power, bUt the negative has been reMoved FroM the circUit, and this will
caUse the Panel light to blink when the controller trigger is PUlled and brakes
will be inoPerative. siMPlY PUsh back in the PoPPed oUt bUtton to reset.
17
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Chapter 7 - Making it Live
Amazing enough, after all is taken apart, it
still fts in the back of the pick-up the original
new pieces were brought in. So, off we go to
put it back together and Make it Live.
Laying the braid is very tedius and slow go-
ing. You will need to apply contact cement
in the braid recess with a ketchup dispenser.
A bead about half the width of the recess is
all that is needed. Using a paint roller loaded
with contact cement, you can coat one side
of the braid as you pull it off the roll to the
desired length.
Putting down the braid will feel awkward at
frst, but you will be an expert by the time you
are fnished. To install the braid pieces, simply
drill a 1/4 hole and run the braid down to the
bottom side for connection. Do not put left
side and right side braid drops next to each
other. It will be easier to work with down
below if they are offset about 5 inches.
Under the track, you will have lengths of
braid to connect up. Short enough to not
waiste braid and long enough for you to
easily work with. All excess can be cut
off and discarded. Using color dots to
keep up with which color you are work-
ing with is a good idea.
Relays are needed to turn on and off the
power to all lanes and above you see an
example of a relay panel under the power
tap section of the track. This application
looks very good, and again color dots
helps you keep up with which relay con-
trols which lane. These relays can also
be placed under each drivers panel and
this is a favorite method with no need of
having to make up a relay panel.
16
While you are waiting on the glue to get good and dry on your Stifs and Bloks,
you can kill time working on the sides you will soon need to fnish up your master-
piece. Here, we used simple 1/8 Masonite pieces. Painted the full sheets frst, and
then using the table saw, ripped them to 5 & 1/2 wide pieces. If you are building
an all fat track, you can rip all sides at only 4 wide. A wider side is needed for the
banked turns and is cut down to the proper height while it is on the track.
After you have fnished cutting your sides down and all your Bloks and Stifs are
good and dry, it is time to begin the routing process. Be sure the side you will begin
routing from is very smooth all the way around. Tis is most important because it is
from this frst cut that all other lanes will be based on. Above, you can see me making
a frst cut using a router mounted to a simple MDF board jig and above right, you can
see a well worn jig that has routed many miles of slots. It is made from plexiglass and
uses shower door wheels
as guides to follow the
outside edge of the
track. At right, you can
see a close up of this
same jig with pins at-
tached and placed down
in a slot to follow and
cut each remaining slots
until all 8 are done.
Careful here when
placing your pins and
wheels. I recommend
no wider than 7.5 for
the wheels and no more
than 5 for the pins.
Make sure your pins go about half way down into the slot. Shallower
and they will slip out too easily in the turns. Deeper and they will plow
up too much excess sawdust and jam making you have to stop every 10
ft. to clean the slot out again.
13
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Chapter 5 - A Word About Banking
Banking a track is simply folding wood
and making it bowl up from fat to
banked. This is much more EZ than you
would think. Look at the picture at left.
You see a turn which has been banked by
pulling with a come-a-long, the straight
to a point where you see it here. Origi-
nally, the turn was totally fat and the two
straights coming off the turn were paralell
to each other. This turn is 8 ft. across but
the process is the same for any size. The
bigger the turn, the more you can pull it
up. On a King track, the big bank is 14ft.
Wide, is totally fat with parallel straights
and the back straight is pulled all the
way over to meet with the front straight
making the famous 33 degree main bank
so familiar with all King tracks. In the
second picture, you see another shot
showing how the two straights have been
pulled together. The banking is there, but
because of angles, does not look so steep.
The next picture shows how legs must be
taken apart and adjusted to compensate
for the elevation of the banking. This is
why you should not glue your leg pieces
together. In the bottom picture you can
see the trackhas been painted and all the
fnal leg adjustments have been made.
In all these pictures, you can clearly see
the Bloks and understand how they play
a part in allowing the turn to be banked.
In the last picture below, you can see the
pin stripes being put on. All the informa-
tion you need on pin striping tools can be
obtained by simply doing a Google search
for pin striping tools. Tip: Dont mis-
spell striping using 2 Ps. What you will
get is not G rated.
14
Chapter 6 Final Touches
SIDES: Putting on the sides is EZ
for fat tracks, but will take a little
patience for banked tracks. You will
need to have two people to do this and
there will need to be some fnish work
to make it all look as good as you see
at left here. Always use plenty of glue
and plenty of tacks or screws to hold
things up until the glue dries.
At left, you can see this track is fn-
ished. Now it is time to take it all apart
and install at the location. Of course,
if you are building on site, it is time to
wire it up and mak it live.
INFIELDS: Infelds are both easy and
functional for fnishing out the inside
of each turn. You could simply run
the side up and around and back but
it is very hard to make the sharp turns
required by the inside radius. So, I
devised a simple method of putting
back the piece that was cut out in the
beginning. (Note: with perfectly fat
turns, you do not need to cut out the
inside radius at all.) In the picture
above and at left, you can see the
unpainted infelds and how the sides
are placed up to the infeld and across.
This method is much easier and when
the infelds are painted green they give
a great look and are perfect places to
put deslotted cars during competition.
In the two pictures at left and below,
you can see more about how infelds
are installed. Simply leave an over-
hang on your bloks in the infeld area
and glue and attach your infeld to the
bloks. Then, using bloks or stiffner
material, run along the outside edge of
infeld for both strength, and a place
to attach the side where it will come
across.
Custom cutting of the sides will be
required to make a good fnished
look where they come together, but
in many places, it is not necessary to
take great care because this area is
hidden from view.
15