WHY WE CHOOSE THIS PROJECT

Metal Detecting is an excellent hobby and pastime for the whole family regardless of age Building your own metal detector is an ideal school, college, or hobby project. Requiring very little skill or equipment. Build with confidence this project is completely free, costs nothing, is guaranteed to work, and has been built by thousands worldwide. We have found the circuit to be extremely reliable and self-starting. If you are experiencing any difficulties, it's best to put another kit together kit as you may have damaged a capacitor or the transistor and these are extremely difficult to diagnose. We haven't found any valuable items with our detector

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About Metal Detectors

Metal detectors are handheld devices that are designed to use electromagnetism to detect metal where it may not be seen. It is used in many military and industrial purposes. They are also recreational tools for small-time treasure hunters and hobbyists. Having been around since the 1930s, the metal detector was a milestone in electronic development and continues to be used to this day. 1. Identification o Metal detectors are very easy to identify, though some may have more features than others. They have a handle at one end of a long pole, often with a computer attachment (in modern detectors) and a rounded electromagnet at the other end. Function
o

When powered on, the metal detector is run across the ground or the object being scanned. Electromagnetic rays bounce off any metal and are sent back to the detector, which alerts the user to the presence of the metal via sounds.

Significance
o

Metal detectors have long been used by hobbyists and archaeologists to find buried treasure or objects. The military has an important use for metal detectors, which help soldiers find dangerous land mines.

Features
o

Modern metal detectors feature an array of computer systems that refine the detection capabilities of the device. It helps the metal detector and the user change the sensitivity of the detector, as well as the depth and the range of the device.

Potential
o

The future of metal detectors holds much lighter devices with simpler designs. They will have the same depth and range while being easier to handle by a person.

COMPONENTS FOR METAL DETECTOR

RESISTORS
R1,R4 R2 R3 R5 R6 R7,R9 R8 P1 CAPACITORS C1,C6 C2 C3 C4 C5 C7 TRANSISTORS Q1,2,3,4 - BC547 DIODES D1,2,3,4 IN4148 MISCELLANEOUS LED1 5MM RED LED Coil 1 Metal Detector coil Buzzer ,Supply 9v Battery,PCB 1PF/25V 1KPF/25V 220PF/25V 270PF/25V 12KPF/100V 100PF/25V 56K 3K 22K 2K 2K 680K 15K 5K

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

BLOCK DIGRAM

COIL

RF SECTION

RF AMP

ALARM

PCB LAYOUT

The connections on the PCB should be identical to the circuit diagram, but while the circuit diagram is arranged to be readable, the PCB layout is arranged to be functional, so there is rarely any visible correlation between the circuit diagram and the layout. PCB layout can be performed manually (using CAD) or in combination with an Autorouter. The best results are usually still achieved using atleast some manual routing - simply because the design engineer has a far better judgement of how to arrange circuitry. Surprisingly, many autorouted boards are often completely illogical in their track routing - the program has optimised the connections, and sacrificed any small amount of order that may have been put in place by manual routing. Generally autorouted boards are somewhat harder for a technician to repair or debug, for this reason. Historically, PCBs used to be laid out by drawing or using stick on paper shapes on mylar film, - that really WAS manual routing!

WORKING OF METAL DETECTOR

A METAL DETECTOR IS A DEVICE WHICH IS USED FOR SEARCHING OF METALS. METAL DETECTOR WORKS ON THE PRINCIPLE OF ELECTRO-MAGNETIC INDUCTION. METAL DETECTOR CONSISTS OF TWO COLPITTS R.F RANGE OSCILLATORS WITH DIFFERENT FREQUENCIES,SENSING COIL WILL FORMS PART OF TUNED OSCILLATORS. WORKING: AS THE SWITCH IS KEPT ON THE OSCILLATOR PRODUCE AN ALTERNATING CURRENT. OSCILLATOR: IT IS A DEVICE WHICH CONVERTS DIRECT CURRENT IN TO ALTERNATING CURRENT THE ALTERNATING CURRENT IS FED TO THE RF AMPLIFIER AND SEND TO THE SENSING COIL. THE SENSING COIL DEVELOPS AN ALTERNATING MAGNETIC FIELD. AS THE COIL IS KEPT CLOSE TO A METAL PIECE EDDY CURRENT WILL BE INDUCED IN THE METAL. EDDY CURRENT: AN ELECTRIC CURRENT INDUCED WITH IN THE BODY OF A CONDUCTOR WHEN THAT CONDUCTOR EITHER MOVES THROUGH A NON- UNIFORM MAGNETIC FIELD OR IS IN A REGION WHERE THERE IS A CHANGE IN MAGNETIC FLUX.IT IS ALSO KNOWN AS FOUCAULT CURRENT. DUE TO THE EDDY CURRENT IN THE METAL AN ALTERNATING MAGNETIC FIELD IS DEVELOPED IN THE METAL. THIS MAGNETIC FIELD OPPOSES THE COIL FIELD AND MAKES THE OSCILLATOR TO FAIL. THEN FINAL TRANSISTOR CONDUCTS AND BUZZER IS ACTIVATED WHICH INDICATES THE PRESENCE OF METAL.

PCB ETCHING

Etching is where the excess copper is removed to leave the individual tracks or traces as they are sometimes called. Buckets, bubble tanks, and spray machines lots of different ways to etch, but most firms currently use high pressure conveyerised spray equipment. Spray etching is fast, ammoniacal etching solutions when sprayed can etch 55 microns of copper a minute. Less than 40 seconds to etch a standard 1 oz, 35 micron circuit board. Many different chemical solutions can be used to etch circuit boards. Ranging from slow controlled speed etches used for surface preparation to the faster etches used for etching the tracks. Some are best used in horizontal spray process equipment while others are best used in tanks. Etchents for PTH work have to be selective and be non aggressive to tin / tin lead plating, which is used as the etch resist. Copper etching is normally exothermic, where high speed etching is carried out solution cooling is normally required. This is normally done by placing titanium water cooling coils into the etchent. Almost all etching solutions liberate toxic corrosive fumes, extraction is highly recommended. All etchents are corrosive and toxic, mainly due to the high metal content. The developed PCB is etched with a 220 g/l solution of ammonium peroxydisulfate (NH4)2S2O8 a.k.a. ammonium persulfate, 220 gram added to 1 liter of water and mix it until everything is dissolved. Theoretically it should be possible to etch slightly more than 60 grams of copper with 1 liter etching solution. Assume an 50% efficiency, about 30 grams of copper. With a thickness of 35 m copper on your PCB this covers a copper area of about 1000 cm2. Unfortunately the efficiency of the etching solution degrades, dissolved ammonium peroxydisulfate decomposes slowly. You better make just enough etching solution you need to etch.

PCB SOLDERING
Soldering is the only permanent way to fix components to a circuit. However, soldering requires a lot of practice as it is easy to destroy many hours preparation and design work by poor soldering. If you follow the guidelines below you have a good chance of success. 1. Use a soldering iron in good condition. Inspect the tip to make sure that it is not past good operation. If it looks in bad condition it will not help you solder a good joint. The shape of the tip may vary from one soldering iron to the next but generally they should look clean and not burnt.

2. A PCB eraser is used to remove any film from the tracks. This must be done carefully because the film will prevent good soldering of the components to the PCB. The tracks can be checked using a magnifying glass. If there are gaps in the tracks, sometimes they can be repaired using wire but usually a new PCB has to be etched. 3. Place the PCB, with its components in position, in the bull clip. This will steady the PCB when you try to use the soldering iron.

PCB DRILLING

Drilling with 0.8mm drill bits can be a bit tricky as it's easy to break the drill bits. Always hold the drill straight and do not bend it when the hole has started. Putting a soft block of wood under the PCB provides a good base to drill into. Once you have become experienced at drilling I would recommend using Tungsten Carbide drills (FE49D) which easily break but last much longer,

1. Dry off the board and clean away the blue etch resist with PCB solvent cleaner 2. Using a 0.8mm PCB drill bit drill out all of the component holes 3. Some 1mm holes may need to be made for connectors, 3mm for corner fixings 4. Finally use a PCB rubber to clean the copper ready for soldering So now your PCB's finished and you can start soldering the components in. You should do this soon after you have cleaned the PCB (within 1 hour) as the copper soon oxidises and becomes hard to solder onto.