Bone Deep With Subtitles

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BoneDeep: What Beauty Is Now &

What It Means To Your Business
LeoShe Study: Women & Beauty
Original Publication Date: 3/15/98
Authors:
Susan Wayne, Denise Fedewa, Jeanie Caggiano, Cherri Patel
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presents
TM
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Bone
Deep
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Bone
Deep
What Beauty
is Now
TM
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What Beauty
is Now
Bone
Deep
...What it
Means to
Your
Business
TM
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: Mission
Lead new thinking
Beyond synthesis
Whats bubbling up?
Real women
Offer a point of view
TM
We have two key points in our mission statement. The first is to lead new thinking. We want to simply go beyond the synthesis
of whats being written about women today, because quite a bit is being written about women and quite a bit has become clich,
like women are over time pressured or stressed out. What we would like to do is uncover what is really bubbling up. What are
real women saying? The second point in our mission statement is to not just end with the insights that we learned. We will also
share with you a point-of-view. A point-of-view will help your thinking about your brand, it will help you attach yourself to some
of this emerging learning.
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Agenda
Background
A way to target: a segmentation
Forces shaping womens attitudes
A way to connect:
The Bone-Deep Beauty Model
Examples
Dos & donts
I will go through an agenda of what will be covered in our presentation. First, there is a bit of background. Then we will talk
about our segmentation study or a way to think about targeting. Then we will look at forces that are shaping womens attitudes
today, and then take a look at a tool that we have developed, or a way that you can think about connecting your brand, called
the Bone Deep Beauty Model. We will look at some examples, and then some food for thought or dos and donts.
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Background
First, we will start with a little bit of background.
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What we did:
Pop Culture Audit
A dip into the literature
Girlfriend groups
Expert chats
Quantitative segmentation
Discussion and debate!
We did a pop culture audit and surrounded ourselves with what women are reading in books, in magazines, and watching on
television, as it relates to beauty. We also did a bit of a dip into the literature and looked at what the sociologists and
psychologists are writing about beauty. Then we did what well call girlfriend groups. Knowing that this topic of beauty and
appearance may be sensitive to some women, we recruited one woman and then got her to get 4-5 of her girlfriends, so that we
could then go into her home or apartment or dorm room and talk to her in a comfortable safe setting. We also did some expert
chats. We talked to a plastic surgeon, a matte prosthetics rep., a downstate Illinois nail salon owner and then we brought it all
together with some numbers and did a quantitative segmentation study; then we wrapped this all up with hours and hours and
hours of discussion and debate.
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The Beauty
Blur...
It all started with a beauty blur. We made a two-minute video that summarizes some of the contradictions and paradoxes we
were seeing early on as it relates to beauty.
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Bringing order to chaos...
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Postmodernism...
In that discussion, we came upon the concept of post modernism.
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Postmodernism...
Two key characteristics:
Breakdown of traditional norms
No single truthsubject to personal experience
NET: Acts as a filter for how were
seeing and interpreting the world right now
Post modernism, in its simplest form, represents a philosophical shift that occurred within the last 15 years. It seems to help explain some of the
contradictions that we explored in this whole beauty arena. There are two key characteristics of post modernism as we use them or think about them
in this presentation. First, there is a breakdown of traditional norms. There is no single truth and it is subject to personal experience. Whats
relevant for you may not be relevant for someone else. So, we are going to use post modernism as a filter for how we are seeing and interpreting the
world right now, as it pertains to beauty.
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Modernism Post-Modernism
Science and technology =
progress
To help us along with this definition of post modernism, we are going to give you some examples of modernism to post modernism.
If in the world of modernism, science and technology equal progress...
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progress
Progress wont solve all
our problems
In post modernism we know that progress wont solve all of our problems.
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progress
Western Thought
our problems
In modernism, if Western thought was the prevailing way of thinking...
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progress
Western Thought
our problems
Blend of Eastern and
Western thought
...In post modernism its a blend of Eastern and Western philosophies.
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progress
Western Thought
Barbara Bush
our problems
Western thought
If Barbara Bush embodied the modernist world...
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progress
Western Thought
Barbara Bush
our problems
Western thought
Hillary Clinton
...Hilary Clinton embodies post modernism
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progress
Western Thought
Barbara Bush
Stay-at-home mom or
Supermom
our problems
Western thought
Hillary Clinton
And lastly, at one time in modernism you either were a stay-at-home mom or a super mom,
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progress
Western Thought
Barbara Bush
Stay-at-home mom or
Supermom
our problems
Western thought
Hillary Clinton
Whatever works for you
Where in post modernism, whatever works for you is what the name of the game is today.
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The entire Monica Lewinsky story is a quintessential example of post modernism, depending on where you sit and what you believe. You look at this
from your own personal perspective. Does this alleged situation mean that Bill Clinton is not a good president, or does the situation have nothing to do
with his ability to run and lead our country? Its for each one of us to decide and have an opinion on.
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Postmodernism beauty?!?

So, you may be wondering, what does post modernism have to do with beauty besides yellow toenail polish? Well, to bring the notion of post modernism
a little bit closer to beauty and appearance, we will contrast some examples of modernism to post modernism as it relates to beauty and appearance.
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Fashion locus: Paris
For example, if the fashion locust in a modernist time was Paris...
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Fashion locus: Paris Fashion locus: Paris,
Asia, inner cities
...In a post-modern era, the fashion locusts, or loci, are Paris, Asia and inner cities, just to name three.
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Business suits
Fashion locus: Paris,
Asia, inner cities
In a modernist time, business suits were the uniform or corporate America or the corporate world.
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Business suits
Asia, inner cities
Business appropriate
And today, its really business appropriate or anything goes.
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Business suits
Pierced ears
Asia, inner cities
In a modernist time, ears were what were pierced.
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Business suits
Pierced ears
Asia, inner cities
Body piercing
And in a post-modernist time, you pierce pretty much anywhere you can pull up a flap of skin and staple it together.
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Business suits
Pierced ears
Chanel No. 5
Asia, inner cities
Body piercing
In the modernist time, the quintessential female fragrance was Chanel No. 5.
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Business suits
Pierced ears
Chanel No. 5
Asia, inner cities
Body piercing
CK One
In the post-modernist time, its CK-1, a fragrance that is suitable for a man or a woman.
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Where do women sit
on the continuum?
Normative Postmodern
Qualitatively, we found that where a woman sits on the continuum affects her views of beauty. The more normative
a woman may be, the more she buys into the traditional beauty model of being tall, thin, well coifed.
The most post-modern a woman is, the more expansive her view and definition of beauty.
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Our goal:
Quantitatively verify the various beauty points
of view
Surveyed 300 women on attitudes and
behaviors
African American sub-sample
We wanted to quantify these things we were hearing women talk about when we did the girlfriend groups, so we did a quantitative segmentation
study to help verify the various beauty points of view. We surveyed 300 women on their attitudes and behaviors and we did an over-sample of
African-American women because we started to hear differences when we talked to them qualitatively.
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A
Segmentation
Postmodern
Beauty:
Like most segmentations, this one was based on two dimensions.
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Segmentation based on:
Attitudes
Self-esteem
Priorities
Societal perceptions
Behaviors
Time spent
Things done
The first was attitudinal and it had to do with the way a woman viewed her self-esteem, her priorities in life, and her societal perceptions as well.
The second dimension focused more on behaviors... how much time a woman spent with her beauty regime and the things that she did to make
herself beautiful.
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Segments driven primarily
by 5 factors:
Self-esteem
Adherence to societal pressure
Beauty ideal
Appearance-related behavior
Some demographics
The segments were driven by five factors. Those factors included self-esteem, adherence to societal pressures, beauty ideals, appearance related
behavior and some demographics, as well. We will talk in more detail about each of those as we move through the presentation.
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84% of women care
about appearance
Ca r e About
Appea r a nc e
Don' t Ca r e
84%
16%
First and foremost, the study did confirm that of no surprise, most women, 84% do indeed care very much about their appearance. However, the
study also confirmed that 16% of women dont care about their appearance.
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16% dont care
about appearance
84%
Healthy self-esteem (not
appearance driven)
Immune to societal
pressures
Prefer to look as natural as
possible
Minimal beauty routine
65% married, 2534
16%
Now keep in mind, these women are not sloughs or slugs, in fact, they have a very healthy self-esteem, it just has nothing to do with their
appearance. This may be largely driven by the fact that they are relatively immune to societal pressures as it relates to appearance. They prefer
to look as natural as possible and have a very minimal beauty routine. In terms of a demographic skew, this group skewed slightly married and in the
ages of 25-34.
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Segmentation: Those who care
Active
Passive
Now for the rest of the presentation or the segmentation study, we will be talking about those 84% of women who said they do, indeed, care very
much about their appearance. The way the segmentation study works is, let me just explain the axes. On the horizontal axis, we have attitudes,
and those go from the normative side or the more standard, traditional view of beauty, all the way to the post-modern side, which is the broader,
more inclusive open view of beauty. In terms of the vertical axis, it runs in terms of behaviors, from active down to passive.
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Beauty Segments
I. Mad at the Mirror 30%
II. Hip Chicks 23%
III. Strong Sisters 12%
IV. Happy Resisters 19%
Active
Passive
TM
The four segments we found were Mad at the Mirror and Hip Chicks which both fell into the normative side in terms of their attitude, and active in
terms of their beauty behaviors. We also found a group called Strong Sisters which were post modern in their attitudes and active in terms of
their beauty behaviors, and than lastly, a group were calling Happy Resisters. They were post-modern in their attitude, but passive in terms of
their beauty behaviors. We will spend the next few minutes really bringing each of these segments to life.
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Low self-esteem ! unhappy with
appearance
Guided by societal pressures
Conventional beauty ideal thin,
made-up
Engage in variety of beauty practices
89% Caucasian, 3544
First, lets start off with Mad at the Mirror. The Mad at the Mirror group represents 30% of women, and as the name implies, they have a very low
self-esteem. They are really unhappy with their appearance and unhappy with the image that looks back at them in the mirror. Societal pressures
really act like a black cloud to this group of women. They have a very conventional beauty ideal. Remember that they are on the normative side in
terms of attitudes. Their beauty ideal is thin, well coifed and made up. They engage in a variety of beauty practices. They are very active. They
havent disenfranchised themselves from beauty behaviors, and do a lot of things, probably in their quest to get this unrealistic beauty ideal. In
terms of a demographics skew, this group skews Caucasian, and in terms of an age skews late 30s to early 40s.
Lets take a look at a couple of advertisers that we think represent brands that are really tapping into this Mad at the Mirror mindset.
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Avia
This first one is for Avia athletic shoes. The headline reads, although fitness trainers gave her advice, the mirror was her dedicated coach.
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Clarins
The second one is for Clarins of Paris, a cellulite cream, and the headline reads even slimmest women share their fight against cellulite, clearly
tapping into this Mad at the Mirror mindset.
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Parnevu
This last ad is for Parnaview. Its a line of ethnic hair care products and the headline reads good hair is a reflection on you.
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II. Hip Chicks 23%
High self-esteem driven by
appearance
Aware of societal pressures, but pleasing
self more important
Conventional beauty ! fashion trends
Variety of beauty practices ! fun
No demo
Now, lets focus on Hip Chicks. Unlike the Mad at the Mirror counterparts, these women are having fun with their appearance. They have high self-
esteem and it is largely driven by their self-appearance. They are aware of societal pressures, but pleasing themselves is more important than
pleasing others. They have conventional beauty standards and also buy into fashion trends. They practice a variety of beauty practices, but the
main differences between the Mad at the Mirror; these women are having fun. They are enjoying themselves and having a great time. There is no
demographic skew when we take a look at this segment. Lets take a closer look at them...
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Virginia Slims
Here are some print manufacturers that are targeting Hip Chicks. Lets start with Virginia Slims. The copy for this ad reads, we never know what
is worse, paying for a bridesmaids dress, or wearing one. And they are obviously having a good time with one another.
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Revlon
The next ad is from Revlon, LavenDare which is imploring women to go out and purchase the latest shade of the day and have their nails match the
lavender color of the outfits they may be wearing.
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High self-esteem including appearance
Recognize societal pressures but
open-minded regarding others
Broad definition of beauty strength,
physical health, fashion
Behaviorally active shopping, salon
African-American, married and
divorced, 4555
Now, lets talk about Strong Sisters, moving over into the post-modern side in terms of attitudes, but still active in terms of behavior. Strong
sisters have a very high self-esteem, including their appearance. They recognize societal pressures, but have a very open-minded view regarding
others. Their definition of beauty is broad. It includes things such as strength, physical health and fashion. They are behaviorally very active.
They are doing things like shopping and going to the salons, and in terms of a demographic skew, Strong Sisters skewed towards African-American
women, married and divorced, and women in their late 40s and early 50s.
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Avon
Now, lets take a look at some ads that are targeting the Strong Sister segment. This first one is Avon, and this is part of a campaign that is about
claiming your beauty. Its out there, just go out and get it.
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Coppertone
The next one is for Coppertone. This was a very deliberate choice of using Gabrielle Reese, an athlete and model.
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High self-esteem including appearance
Actively resist conforming to societal
pressures
Natural beauty ideal emphasis on
strength and health
Behaviorally more health focused
Young (1824), single and college educated
The last segments we are going to take a close look at are Happy Resisters, representing 19% of the audience. These women have very high self-
esteem, and it includes their appearance. They actively resist conforming to societal pressures. In that way, they are different from their Strong
Sisters. They have a more natural beauty ideal and the emphasis is on strength and health. These women are behaviorally more health focused and
are more involved in things like Yoga. Demographically, they tend to be young, 18-24, single and college educated. Lets take a closer look at them.
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Gap
Taking a look at manufacturers targeting this segment we are going to begin with Gap. Gaps most recent campaign takes a very minimalistic
approach in the way they chose their models.
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Winston
The next manufacturer is Winston, with its direct, very straight on, straightforward, no-bones-about-it attitude, and we see that expressed in
numerous executions of their newest campaign.
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CK One
Lastly, there is CK-1, which does not conform to societal pressures for men or women, but this is a fragrance for individuals.
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Beauty Segments
II. Hip Chicks 23%
Active
Passive
TM
So, weve seen that the 84% of women who do, indeed, care very much about their appearance, fall into one of these four groups: Mad at the
Mirror, Hip Chicks, Strong Sisters or Happy Resisters. This is simply a snapshot in time, March 1998.
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Where are women
going?
You may be asking yourself, where are women going? This is particularly important if youre thinking about a brand that you need to kick start, to
rejuvenate or if you are thinking about launching a new brand, this is a critical question. Where are women going? Well, while the business of
predicting the future is always a dicey one, at best, we thought we must consider a couple of scenarios.
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One scenario...
More women of all ages and ethnicities
adopt postmodern beauty attitudes
One scenario is that more women of all ages and ethnicities adopt the post-modern attitudes we described.
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Another scenario:
Postmodern beauty collapses on itself
Return to structure and norms
Introduction of outside force
Another scenario is that this post-modern beauty notion just collapses in on itself, and it is not hard to believe that as we approach the
millennium, that there may be a return to structure and norms. There also could be an introduction of an outside force. One of the
pharmaceutical companies here, as they have tackled and launched Viagra, who is to say that they couldnt launch a totally consequence-free diet
pill, and that may be another consequence that may lead to this post-modern beauty ideal falling in on itself.
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Our Conclusion:
Postmodern mindset is where
women are going
Prognosticating where women are going is a tricky business, but we feel quite strongly that women are headed toward post-modern attitudes and
here are some reasons why.
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Why Postmodern?
Attitude is the aspiration: across segments
Opinion leaders: already there
Societys definition of beauty: expanding
The first is, the attitude is the aspiration and we have seen this attitude expressed and articulated across a variety of segments that we have
spoken to. Secondly, we have seen evidence that opinion leaders are already there. There are women that are already practicing these behaviors
and have adopted these mindsets, and we will talk about them, more specifically, in a few minutes. Lastly, when we look at societys definition of
beauty, we see that that has expanded, too, and we will share those examples with you, as well.
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Attitude as Aspiration:
Reflected in Beauty Beliefs
Completely Agree %
A woman can be beautiful at any
age
Its more important to be healthy
than to be thin
Health is more important than
size
First, lets take a closer look at the attitude as the aspiration. In our segmentation study, we asked women to rate a variety of attitudes and we
found that the majority of them agree completely with the statements that were showing here.
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Reflected in Beauty Beliefs
Completely Agree %
A woman can be beautiful at any
age
87
Its more important to be healthy
than to be thin
75
size
64
First, a woman can be beautiful at any age. Secondly, its more important to be healthy than to be thin, and thirdly, health is more important than
size. The majority of women completely agreed with each of these statements.
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Next Generation Advice
Dont stress about appearance
I ts more important whats on the inside
When you die, are you really going to
care if your haircut is perfect or youre not
the exact weight you want to be?
Further, we asked women what advice they would give to the next generation of women, advice that they themselves might not have been able to
practice, but theyd like to pass on to their daughters or those young women that are close to them. What we heard women saying were things
like, dont stress about appearance, or, its more important whats on the inside or, when you die, are you really going to care if your haircut is
perfect or if you are not the exact weight you want to be.
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Top 10 Role Models:
accomplishment, character, and power
Role Model*

Oprah Winfrey

Barbara Walters
94.0%
89.3

Candice Bergen
81.4

Gloria Estefan
80.2

Goldie Hawn
79.5

Meg Ryan
75.5

Helen Hunt
74.9

Tina Turner
73.6

Hillary Rodham Clinton
70.5

Cindy Crawford
70.4
*% agreeing
We also asked women to rate their top role models and we compiled a list of top 10 role models, based on what women said to us. What we can see by
this list is that there are a variety of women, from all walks of life, that made the top 10 list. Women including Oprah Winfrey, Meg Ryan, Tina
Turner. When we look at more traditional women, we also have included Goldie Hawn and Cindy Crawford, and we have older women as well. Again, Tina
Turner would represent this area, and Barbara Walters, as well.
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Why Postmodern?
Another reason we think the post-modern mindset is where women are going, is some key opinion-leading groups are already there. What we mean by
opinion-leading groups are three, and well talk about each individually.
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Opinion Leaders: Already There
African Americans
Young Women (1824)
Baby Boomers
First, in terms of African-American women, this is a group that seems to already be there in terms of the post-modern mindset.
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African Americans: Already There
First, when you take a look at things like how they define beauty.
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Broader definition of beauty...
Completely Agree
AA
%
Health is more important than size 80
A womans personality and character
are what make her beautiful
79
Ethnic women should embrace their
ethnic beauty
61
They agree with statements like health is more important than size. A womans personality and character are what make her beautiful.
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Broader definition of beauty...
Completely Agree
AA
%
Cauc.
%
Health is more important than size 80 57
A womans personality and character
are what make her beautiful
79 58
Ethnic women should embrace their
ethnic beauty
61 48
When you contrast this to what Caucasian women said, there is a significant difference.
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Beauty esteem quite strong...
Completely Agree
AA
%
As long as Im clean, Im happy
with my looks
55
I really dont care what other
people think about my appearance
50
Next, when you take a look at beauty esteem, African-American women agreed with statements like, as long as Im clean Im happy with my looks
and I really dont care what other people think about my appearance.
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Beauty esteem quite strong...
Completely Agree
AA
%
Cauc.
%
As long as Im clean, Im happy
with my looks
55 26
I really dont care what other
people think about my appearance
50 19
Once again, a sharp contrast with their Caucasian counterparts.
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1/3 rate themselves a 10!
Overall appearance
rating: 10
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
A
A
We also asked women to rate themselves on a scale of 1-10, and a full one-third of African-American women rated themselves a perfect 10.
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vs. 3% of Caucasian women
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
A
A
C
a
u
c
Overall appearance
rating: 10
When you take a look at what Caucasian women said, only three percent rated themselves a perfect 10. Beauty, for an African-American woman,
as we found, is not something to be stressed out or angst-ridden about; its something to have fun with.
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Have fun with appearance...
% Completely Agree AA
I enjoy spending time and
energy on my appearance
34
Keeping up with the latest
fashions is fun
29
Completely agreeing with statements like, I enjoy spending time and energy on my appearance and keeping up with the latest fashion trends are
fun, was a big difference...
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Have fun with appearance...
% Completely Agree AA Cauc.
I enjoy spending time and
energy on my appearance
34 10
Keeping up with the latest
fashions is fun
29 12
...Once again, from Caucasian women
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Enjoy the salon experience...
Once a month AA

Manicure
46

Eyebrow wax
27

Massage
28
Once a week

Change hairstyle
40
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Enjoy the salon experience...
Once a month AA Cauc.

Manicure
46 17

Eyebrow wax
27 15

Massage
28 10
Once a week

Change hairstyle
40 7
Next, lets take a look at a video that includes some real African-American women talking about their views of beauty, a couple of the experts that we
talked to, as well as a clip from the Oprah Winfrey show, which my partner in crime here, Esther Franklin, recently appeared on.
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Young Women:
A truly postmodern generation
The next group of opinion leaders will talk about our young women, who are truly post-modern generation.
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Also have a broader
beauty definition...
Completely Agree 18-24 Total
Athletic bodies are very
beautiful
35 21
Id like to see a broader range of
body types portrayed in the
media
65 54
As you can see, young women have a truly post-modern definition of beauty, agreeing with things like athletic bodies are very beautiful, and Id
like to see a broader range of women portrayed in the media. They agree with these statements at a much higher rate than total women.
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Consider inner dimensions too...
Completely Agree 18-24 Total
A womans personality and
character are what make her
beautiful
79 59
size
81 62
Ethnic women should embrace
their ethnic beauty
63 49
Further, we asked them to rate inner dimensions, as well. Statements like, a womans personality and character are what make her beautiful,"
and, health is more important than size. Also, ethnic women should embrace their ethnic beauty. Again, young women rated these statements
much more strongly than total women did.
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Aging Boomers:
More comfortable in their skin
The last opinion-leading segment is aging boomers who are more comfortable in their skin. We compiled their responses to several of the
attitudinal questions.
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Beauty
esteem
18-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55+
Women's Beauty Esteem:
a reverse bell curve
When we asked them, we found we had an interesting bell curve. Not surprisingly, a womans attitude toward beauty esteem is most positive when
she is younger. As she matures, going into the more responsible years when she is getting married, having children, and caring for others, her
attitude toward beauty esteem seems to plummet. Importantly, this rises again as the woman matures and enters into her 50s. We have a client,
the Prozac client, and we were able to contrast this curve with what happens in the depression years. The opposite is true. In depression, a
woman is most depressed when her beauty esteem is lowest. So, in the late 20s, early 30s, the depression curve is highest. Likewise, it drops
down as a woman matures and has more time to focus on herself.
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Why Postmodern?
The third reason we think that the post-modern mindset is where women are going is that societys definition of beauty is changing. Its
expanding, and there are a couple of different forces that are converging together to make this happen. We will talk about each one individually.
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Wellness Movement Healthy Beauty
Legacy of Title IX Athletic Beauty
Mainstreaming of Diversity Ethnic Beauty
Size Reality Check Real-Size Beauty
Aging of Boomers Mature Beauty
Societys Definition of Beauty:
Expanding
First is the wellness movement. And this is actually a force that has been around for several years. Its created a new look of healthy beauty.
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National Best Sellers
Another way to bring to life this wellness movement that has occurred over the past several years, is if you take a look at the best sellers from
the 1980s, you had things like Jane Fondas work out book, several books by Weight Watchers, and the Rotation Diet and the Power Diet. As you
look into the 1990s, you have best selling books like Making the Connection, Chicken Soup for the Soul and Spontaneous Healing. Clearly, a
different shift in the notion of health and healthy beauty.
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Expanding
The next movement we will take a look at is the legacy of Title 9, how this has resulted in a new look of athletic beauty. For those of you not
familiar with it, Title 9 was a law that was passed in 1972, that required high schools to provide equal access to athletic sports, to girls, as they
did to boys. This has resulted in a whole new generation of young women coming up and appreciating athletic beauty.
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Expanding
A third force thats changing and reshaping beauty is the mainstreaming of diversity, and how this has resulted in a new look of ethnic beauty;
which started as a demographic trend of ethnic groups becoming a significantly larger part of the population in the U.S., has now resulted in this
new look of ethnic beauty.
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Expanding
An area that we are just seeing bubbling up from the surface is real-sized beauty. This is a result of aging women and a prosperous economy.
Given that American women were an average size 14 or larger, its not a big surprise. Were seeing women here featured that have more realistic
body shapes and are beautiful in all sizes.
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Expanding
The last area that we are going to talk about has to do with the aging of women in America. It focuses on mature beauty and what were beginning
to see in media now are a broader range of expressions of women of all ages that are still just as beautiful.
~106~
Expanding
Weve just taken you through a variety of ways societys definition of beauty has expanded. In summary, the wellness movement resulted in
healthy beauty. The legacy of Title 9 gave us athletic beauty. The mainstreaming of diversity lead to ethnic beauty. Size reality check led to
real-size beauty and the aging of the baby boomers led to the area of mature beauty.
~107~
Top 10 beauty role models:
A mixed, postmodern bag
Top 3 Box*

Halle Berry

Meg Ryan
72.3%
63.3

Christie Brinkley
61.8

Cindy Crawford
60.4

Lena Horne
56.7

Goldie Hawn
56.0

Claudia Schiffer
54.6

Gabrielle Reese
50.3

Gloria Estefan
49.7

Naomi Campbell
48.8
*10-point scale
We asked women to rate their top 10 beauty models and what we got was a post-modern beauty bag from ethnic women represented by Halle
Berry, Lena Horne, to more traditional beauties such as Cindy Crawford, to older women, as well, including Lena Horne and Goldie Hawn.
~108~
Why Postmodern?
To summarize, there are three reasons why the post-modern mindset is where women are going. The attitude is the aspiration across segments,
that some key opinion-leading groups are already there, and that societys definition of beauty is changing and expanding. So, weve given you a
way to think about targeting via the segmentation study, as well as a point-of-view on where we think women are going in terms of mindset,
meaning the post-modern attitude.
~109~
A Way to
Connect:
Now, what we will spend the rest of the time going through is the tool that weve developed for the Bone Deep Beauty Value Model.
~110~
A Way to
Connect:
Bone Deep
Beauty
Values
Its a tool that weve developed that we think does a couple of things as you are thinking about building relationship with women, as it relates to
beauty.
~111~
A More Relevant
Expression of Beauty...
Inclusive vs. Exclusive
Authentic vs. Hollywood
Holistic vs. Superficial
Values vs. Image
Bone Deep vs. Skin Deep
We think this tool is a more relevant expression of beauty, one that is more inclusive versus exclusive, one that is more authentic versus
Hollywood, one that is more holistic versus superficial, value based versus image based, and to use our words, bone deep versus skin deep. What
we'll talk about is each of the six values in the beauty model.
~112~
Six values with
beauty power
in a postmodern world...
Six values work with beauty power, in a post-modern world.
~113~
1. Strength and Power
WHAT IT IS:
Physical/athletic strength
Accomplishment
WHO IT IS:
Lets take a look at the first one, which is strength and power. Strength and power: What we mean by that is physical and athletic strength, as
well as inner strength, the notion of accomplishment or overcoming adversity. For each of these values, we have picked a couple of women that
we think really depict what this value is all about. In terms of who this value is about, is Gabrielle Reese, model and athlete, as well as Gloria
Stefan, as woman that is admired by many American women as being someone who is not only talented, but has overcome adversity, be it her
accident and/or coming from another country.
~114~
2. Diversity
WHAT IT IS:
True respect
Celebration
Ethnicity, size, age
WHO IT IS:
The next value is diversity. What we mean by diversity is not just ethnic diversity; its the celebration of the human form in all shapes and sizes
that it may take; diversity that is beyond tokenism and on to a true respect for other cultures. Two women that we think really depict this are
first Queen Latifah, rap singer and actress, as well as talk show phnom Rosie ODonnell.
~115~
3. Female Sexuality
WHAT IT IS:
A womans view of sexuality
Sexuality as source of strength vs. vulnerability
WHO IT IS:
The third bone deep beauty value is female sexuality. What we mean by this is a womans view of sexuality versus a mans. Its where you see
sexuality as a source of strength versus vulnerability. In terms of who really brings this to life, two kind of easy picks were Madonna and Tina
Turner.
~116~
4. Womens Wisdom
WHAT IT IS:
Intuition
Perspective
Sense of priorities
WHO IT IS:
The fourth value is womens wisdom. This value deals with a womans intuition, her perspective on life and her sense of priority. Two women who
really embody this value include Barbara Walters and Maya Angelou.
~117~
5. Wellness
WHAT IT IS:
Synergy of mind/body/spirit
Emphasis on the whole
WHO IT IS:
Our fifth value is wellness. Wellness embodies a synergy of mind, body and spirit. It is an emphasis on the whole and not just on the surface.
Two women who really espouse this include Susan Taylor, editor-in-chief of Essence Magazine, and Emmie, the large sized model we focused on
earlier. Both of these women espouse to audiences, either through a monthly review in the magazine or through her recent book, Emmie, this
whole notion of being one with body, mind and spirit.
~118~
6. Authenticity
WHAT IT IS:
Comfortable with who you are
Daring to be real
WHO IT IS:
The last Bone Deep value is authenticity. Its all about being comfortable with who you are and daring to be real. Two women who embody
authenticity are Helen Hunt, who came up over and over again in association with being real and daring to be different, and Gwen Stefani, from
the band, No Doubt.
~119~
Our Point of View...
Leadership womens brands will be the ones
who:
Speak to the postmodern attitude
Align with and stand for a Bone Deep Beauty
Value(s)
Our point of view is that the leadership brands be the one who does two things: One is speak to this post-modern attitude, and secondly, align
with and stand for a bone-deep beauty value or values.
~120~
Whos Tapping
Into This Power?
Now we will take a look at some examples.
~121~
Whos Tapping
Into This Power?
and who
isnt?
Some brands that we think are tapping into the model of the Bone Deep beauty model and some brands that we think are missing some opportunities.
~122~
Dove
Lets start with Dove. The campaign idea here is for the beauty that is already there. As you can see from these two examples within the campaign,
it features very authentic real women, shot in a very authentic and nonsexual pose.
~123~
Some of the bone deep values that we think this campaign is tapping into are diversity, authenticity and womens wisdom.
~124~
vs. Caress
A brand we contrast this with is Caress, a brand that quite literally has stayed at the skin-deep level. You can see from the headline, Go beyond
soft to silky.
~125~
Revlon
The next example that we are going to look at is Revlon. Revlon is a cosmetics manufacturer that uses women from a variety of ethnic backgrounds
and a variety of ages.
~126~
We feel they are tapping into diversity and female sexuality. If you are familiar with the television campaign, youll see more of the female
sexuality dimension coming through.
~127~
...vs. Maybelline
We contrast this with Maybelline, which is using a single model and is more unidimensional in its portrayal of beautiful women.
~128~
Ally McBeal
The next example is of television shows, the first is Ally McBeal. This is a show that is truly post-modern. It has been the subject of many Leo-She
Tuesday morning debriefs.
~129~
It taps into several of the Bone Deep beauty values, including strength and power, female sexuality, womens wisdom and authenticity. This is a show
that frequently blends fantasy and reality, and often you dont know if the action is taking place in the characters head or in real time. When the
show was submitted for a Golden Globe, just to show how truly post-modern it is, they couldnt decide whether it was a comedy or a drama, and in the
end, it was decided to be a comedy that beat out Seinfeld.
~130~
vs. Melrose Place
This is in contrast to a show like Melrose Place, who this year has seen a significant slip in the ratings. As you can see, headlines like, She stole her
husband, slept with her boyfriend, ruined her career; but tonight, Sydney will finally push Jane too far, is a show that we feel like, in todays era of
post-modernism and this post-modern mindset is staying at more of the normative skin-deep side.
~131~
Clinique Happy
Next, is an example from Clinique, which has a fairly new fragrance, called Happy.
~132~
We feel strongly that this fragrance embodies wellness.
~133~
vs. Beautiful
We contrast this with Beautiful, a more traditional fragrance, which focused more skin deep versus Bone Deep.
~134~
Jump
Jump is a very successful new magazine for teenagers. Its mantra is for girls who dare to be real. They feature traditional fare like a break up
survival guide, but they also feature things like, Real bodies. Heres proof that fit comes in all shapes and sizes.
~135~
We think this is tapping into several of the Bone Deep values like strength and power, diversity, wellness, and authenticity.
~136~
vs. Seventeen
You contrast this with a more normative, Seventeen magazine.
~137~
Vanity Fair
The next example is from Vanity Fair, which features a new campaign focusing on more mature women. Ill read the copy. How could you know when
you are 20 and impossibly sexy, and unable to imagine yourself otherwise, that time would teach you something? That age is not a loss, but an
exchange of wisdom for youth, grace for foolishness, and love for lust. And it is an exchange that will seem a very unfair trade, not for the woman,
but for the girl.
~138~
We believe this taps into womens wisdom and female sexuality
~139~
...vs. Wonderbra
We contrast it with a more skin deep Bachelorette lingerie campaign which features Wonderbra.
~140~
1998 Milk
The last example is the milk mustache campaign and for this one we are going to compare it to itself. The ads that you see here are the most
recent editions in the milk mustache campaign, where they feature women like Donna Shelele, one of the cabinet members of the White House,
Olympic gold medallist Amy Van Dykan and a very pregnant supermodel, Elle McPherson.
~141~
vs. Launch Milk Campaign
You compare this to the original launch of the milk campaign a few years ago where they only showed the beautiful people, like Naomi Campbell and
super model Iman.
~142~
We think that theyve now gone bone deep and are talking things, Bone Deep values, like strength and power,
wellness and diversity.
~143~
Final
Thoughts
Some Dos
and Donts
Well end the presentation today with some final thoughts or really some food for thought as you walk away from the presentation, and we put this
section in the form of do's and donts.
~144~
Do
Pick a beauty
segment as a
target
The first do is picking a beauty segment as a target.
~145~
Do Dont
Pick a beauty
segment as a
target
Assume
everyones the
same
Dont assume that every woman is the same.
~146~
Do
Go Bone Deep!
Align brand with
a beauty value(s)
Do go Bone Deep, to use our language. Align your brand with a beauty value or values.
~147~
Do Dont
Stay skin deep
Go Bone Deep!
Align brand with
a beauty value
Dont stay at the skin-deep level.
~148~
Do
Speak to the
attitude as
aspiration
Do speak to the attitude as the aspiration.
~149~
Do Dont
Speak to the
image as
aspiration
Speak to the
attitude as
aspiration
Dont speak to the image as the aspiration.
~150~
Champion
An example here is Champion. This print ad shows the attitude jumping off the page.
~151~
Do
Be sensitive that
there are no
single ideals in a
postmodern
society
Do be sensitive that there are no single ideals in a post-modern society...
~152~
Do Dont
Simply set new
standards
Be sensitive that
there are no
single ideals in a
postmodern
society
... and dont simply set new standards, which is pretty easy to do.
~153~
Special K
An example here is a new Kellogg advertisement which intentionally shows a blurred image of a woman.
~154~
Do
Embrace all body
types and sizes
Do embrace all body types
~155~
Do Dont
Assume every
woman aspires
to be a size 6
Embrace all body
types and sizes
Dont assume that every woman aspires to be a size 6.
~156~
Saks Fifth Avenue: Salon Z
A good example here is the department store, Sax Fifth Avenue, recently launched a new department for real-sized women, size 14 or larger.
Theyre calling it Salon Z, and as you can see from this advertisement, it shows a very sexy woman who is over size 14.
~157~
Special K
The Special K example, another installment in this campaign, is you can see a little black dress that says, a perfect 10, and the body copy goes
on to say, and size 12, and 14 and 16, and so on and so on.
~158~
Do
Reflect inner-
driven feelings of
beauty
Do reflect inner driven feelings of beauty.
~159~
Do Dont
Rely solely on
male
appreciation for
a beauty payoff
Reflect inner-
driven feelings of
beauty
Dont rely solely on male appreciation for beauty payoff.
~160~
Dove
A good example here is the Dove campaign we talked about earlier, that talk about sharing that beauty is already there.
~161~
Salon Selectives
This is contrasted with Salon Selectives, a new campaign that really reflects a male appreciation: Starting today you wont
care how you look in a bathing suit, because everyone will be looking at your hair.
~162~
Finesse
Another example of a contrast of relying solely on a male appreciation is the new campaign from Finesse.
~163~
Do
Stress the fun
of appearance
Do stress the fun of appearance
~164~
Do Dont
Play the guilt
game
Stress the fun
of appearance
Dont play the guilt game.
~165~
Clairol Herbal Essences
An example here is Clairol. This example really comes to life when you see the television advertising, which tells how much fun the woman is
having with the product.
~166~
Elizabeth Arden
We contrast that with what Elizabeth Arden is doing, which clearly this woman, as she looks at herself in the mirror, is not having a very good
time.
~167~
Do
Recognize older
womens comfort
with mature
beauty
The next do is recognizing older womens comfort with their mature beauty.
~168~
Do Dont
Assume theyre
all trying
desperately to
stay young
Recognize older
womens comfort
with mature
beauty
Dont assume they are all trying desperately to stay young.
~169~
The Body Shop
A few good examples...the first one is for The Body Shop, where the headline reads, the only way to avoid wrinkles is never to smile again.
~170~
Oil of Olay
Another good example is the recent campaign from Oil of Olay. Its pretty difficult to tell from looking at this shot, but clearly this is an older
woman with wrinkles, that is obviously beautiful.
~171~
Do
Communicate
with AA women
recognizing their
unique attitudes
toward beauty
Do communicate with African-American women, recognizing their unique attitudes towards beauty.
~172~
Do Dont
Assume only
their skin color
is different
Communicate
with AA women
recognizing their
unique attitudes
toward beauty
Dont simply assume that only their skin color is different.
~173~
Coach
Coach is doing a wonderful job. We see the attitude of this woman literally leaping off the page.
~174~
Ally McBeal
And also, Ally McBeals roommate, Renee, was cast for her attitude and her outlook on life, and not for her skin color alone.
~175~
Cover Girl
We contrast this with the advertising for Cover Girl, which any model could be interchanged in this beauty shot.
~176~
Cover Girl
We contrast this with the advertising for Cover Girl, which any model could be interchanged in this beauty shot.
~177~
Do
Dare to be real
in casting!
Do dare to be real in casting.
~178~
Do Dont
Succumb to
conventional
images of
women
Dare to be real
in casting!
Dont always succumb to conventional images of women.
~179~
Actual Basketball Players
A really good example of this is, you can see here is the cover of Sports Illustrated. It was an Olympic preview issue and its showing real
female basketball players.
~180~
WNBA Barbies
This is whats about to be launched by Mattel, the WNBA Barbies. Clearly, a very different look in terms of not daring to be real in their
choice of casting.
~181~
Do
Work hard to get
the subtleties
right
Do work hard to get the subtleties right.
~182~
Do Dont
Underestimate
how easy it is to
miss the mark!
Work hard to get
the subtleties
right
Dont underestimate how easy it is to miss the mark.
~183~
Lady Speed Stick
A couple of examples of doing this, our first is, this is an ad from Ladys Speed Stick. It says, what the first female president will be wearing
on the campaign trail. Clearly, they were going for strength and power, but came across as a bit clich.
~184~
Nicole Shoes
The next example is for Nicole shoes, and if you can read the headline, it says the pair you will be wearing to your cooking class, will also look
great at your weight-loss seminar. Clearly, an attempt to go for a post-modern mindset, but just a real miss-match in terms of a very thin
woman going to a weight loss seminar.
~185~
Phenomenal Woman
Maya Angelou Phenomenal Woman
Many people wonder where my secret lies.
I am not cute or built to suit a fashion models size.
When I start to tell them, they think Im telling lies.
I say, its in the reach of my arms, the span of my hips,
The stride of my step, the curl of my lips.
I am a woman, phenomenally.
I walk into a room just as cool as you please
And to a man the fellows stand or fall down on their knees. Then they swarm around
me a hive of honeybees.
I say, its the fire in my eyes, the flash of my teeth,
The swing in my waist, the joy in my feet.
Men themselves have wondered what they see in me.
They try so much, but they cant touch my inner mystery. When I try to show them,
they say they still cant see.I say, its in the arch of my back, the sun of my smile,
The ride of my breasts, the grace of my style.
Now you understand just why my heads not bowed.
I dont shout or jump about or have to talk real loud.
When you see me passing, it ought to make you proud.
I say, its in the click of my heels, the bend of my hair,
The palms of my hands, need for my care. Because,
Im a woman, phenomenally.
Phenomenal woman.
Thats my mother and all your mothers,
And my grandmothers and your grandmothers.
And my great grandmothers, and your greats and my great greats,
And all you women, and me.
Well leave you with a poem by Maya Angelou, a true postmodernist women, whose words embody our message and theme today.
~186~
Lead Team:
Denise Fedewa -- x4082
Cherri Patel -- x4649
Susan Wayne -- X5668
Jeanie Caggiano -- x4804
TM
We, Denise, Cherri, Susan & Jeanie, lead the LeoShe effort here at Leo Burnett in Chicago. Please call us if you have questions
or thoughts on this presentation.
~187~
Thanks to the Team!!!
Project Core Team
Esther Franklin, Planning
Kati Fritzsche, Planning
Amy Henry, Client Service
Elizabeth Likens, Segmentation Group
~188~
Thanks!!! (contd)
Project Support Team
Janet Doligale, Secretarial Services
Helga Eidok, Graphic Services
Liz Fairfax, Client Service
Linda Goldberg, Creative
Fletcher Hayes, Graphic Services
~189~
Thanks!!! (contd)
Project Support Team
Leslie Mockenhaupt, Technology
Deidre Reed, Creative
Angie Sartori, Client Service
Tierney Scheller, Creative
Deionna Wilburn, Creative
~190~
~191~
~192~
~193~
~194~
~195~

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BoneDeep: What Beauty Is Now &

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