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Letters from Spain / by Leucadio Doblado [i.e. J. B. White].
Whte, |oseph Banco, 1775-1841.
London : H. Coburn, 1825.
http://hdl.handle.net/2027/nyp.33433070305580
Public Domain, Google-digitized
http://w w w .hathi tr u s t.o r g /ac c es s _ u s e# pd- g o o g le
Ths work s n the Pubc Doman, meanng
that t s not sub|ect to copyrght. Users are
free to copy, use, and redstrbute the work
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L TT P
P0M
P I .
B
D0 L UC DI0 D0BL D0.
C0 D DITI0 .
P I D D C0PP CT D B TH UTH0P.
L0 D0 - , :
H P C0LBUP , W BUPLI GT0| TP T.
1825. -
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I PP C .
the dsguse of that name was so contrved, as to
be a mark of dentty. Leucado beng derved from
a Greek root whch means whte, the word Dobado
was added, n auson to the repetton of my
famy name, transated nto pansh, whch my
countrymen have forced upon us, to avod the
dffcuty of an orthography and sound, perfecty
at varance wth ther anguage. In short, Do-
bado and hs nseparabe frend, the pansh cer-
gyman, are but one and the same person whose
orgn, educaton, feengs, and eary turn of thnk-
ng, have been made an ntroducton to the per-
sona observatons on hs country, whch, wth a
deep sense of ther kndness, he agan ays before
the Brtsh Pubc.
v.: - - . - |oseph banco whte.
Chesea,. |une. t, 1 25/
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PP C
T0 TH
IP T DITI0 .
ome of the foowng Letters have been prnted
n the ew Monthy Magazne.
The uthor woud, ndeed, be ncned to
commt the whoe coecton to the candour of hs
readers wthout a prefatory address, were t not
that the pan of hs Work absoutey requres some
e panaton.
The sght m ture of fcton whch these Let-
ters contan, mght rase a doubt whether the
sketches of pansh manners, customs, and op-
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v
PP C .
nons, by means of whch the uthor has en-
deavoured to pourtray the mora state of hs
country at a perod mmedatey precedng, and n
part concdent wth the rench nvason, may not
be e aggerated by fancy, and cooured wth a vew
to mere effect.
It s chefy on ths account that the uthor
deems t necessary to assure the Pubc of the
reaty of every crcumstance mentoned n hs
book, e cept the name of Leucado Dobado.
These Letters are n effect the fathfu memors of a
rea pansh cergyman, as far as hs character and
the events of hs fe can ustrate the state of the
country whch gave hm brth.
Dobado s Letters are dated from pan, and, to
preserve consstency, the uthor s supposed to have
returned thther after a resdence of some years n
ngand. Ths s another fcttous crcumstance.
nce the moment when the person dsgused under
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PP C .
II
the above name eft that beoved country, whose
regous ntoerance has embttered hs fe that
country whch, boastng, at ths moment, of a free
consttuton, st contnues to deprve her chdren
of the rght to worshp God accordng to ther own
conscence he has not for a day qutted ngand,
the and of hs ancestors, and now the country of
hs choce and adopton.
It s not, however, from pque or resentmen
that the uthor has dwet so ong and so warmy
upon the panfu and dsgustng pcture of pansh
bgotry. pan, wth a her fauts, s st and
sha ever be the ob|ect of hs ove. But snce no
man, wthn the mts of her terrtory, can venture
to ay open the canker whch, fostered by regon,
feeds on the root of her potca mprovements be
t aowed a sef-banshed panard to descrbe the
sources of such a strange anomay n the ew
Consttuton of pan, and thus to e pan to such
as may not be unacquanted wth hs name as a
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v . PP C .
pansh wrter, the true cause of an absence whch
mght otherwse be construed nto a derecton of
duty, and a deserton of that post whch both
nature and affecton marked so decdedy for the
e erton of hs humbe taents.
Chesea, |une 1822.
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T BL
0
C0 T T .
L TT P I.
Mstakes of Traveers. Townsend s ccuracy. ew of
Cadz from the ea. Pegon bended wth Pubc and Do-
mestc Lfe n pan. Customs reatng to the Host or u-
charst. Manners and ocety at Cadz. Passage by ea to
Port ant Mary s. t. Lucar. Passage up the Guadaquvr
to eve Constructon and nterna conomy of the Houses
n that Town. nockng, and greetng at the Door. De-
voton of the Peope of eve to the Immacuate Concepton
of the rgn Mary p. 1 22
L TT P IT.
Dffcuty of descrbng atona Characters. obes and
Pebeans, n pan. Purty of Bood. Tzon de sparto.
Grandees. Hdagos n Low Lfe. ecuton of an
Hdago. pansh Prde, vsbe among the Lower Casses.
Usua mpoyment of Day at eve. pansh Poteness.
bsence of |eaousy n Modern Tmes. Dnner. esta.
Pubc Waks. Dress of the pansh Lades. arous Uses
of the an. Character of the pansh emaes . p. 23 51
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T BL 0 C0 T T .
L TT P III.
agerness of ree-thnkng panards to become acquanted,
and ther quckness n knowng one another. Incosure of a
detached Paper, nttued few acts connected wth the
ormaton of the Inteectua and Mora Character of
pansh Cergyman ..... p. 52 8
Importance of e amnng the Tendency of Cathocsm. c-
count of two hghy devout Poman Cathocs. urcuar
Confesson. ducaton of a pansh Boy. vs arsng
from the Cebacy of the Cergy. ducaton under the
|esuts. Congregaton of ant Php er. ercses of
ant Ignatus. rstotec Phosophy taught by the Dom-
ncans. ey|oo s Works. pansh Unverstes andCoeges,
caed Mat/ores. Indrect Infuence of the Inquston on the
tate of nowedge n pan. Menta trugges of a young
panard on ponts connected wth the estabshed ystem of
ath. Impressons produced by the Ceremony of Cathoc
0rdnaton. Unty and Consstency of the Cathoc ystem.
Tran of Thought and eeng eadng to the fna Pe|ecton
of Cathocsm p. 58 118
L TT P I .
0n Bu-fghts, and other atona Customs connected wth those
musements. p. 11 140
L TT P .
|ourney to 0suna and 0vera. pansh Country Inn.
The Pay Dabo Predcador ous n Purgatory begged
for: Lottery of Purgatory. Character of Two uns at 0suna.
Country car. Customs at 0vera. Tapadas, or veed
emaes. Dance. The Pberas Lamp . p. 141 170
L TT P I.
The eow ever at eve, n 1800. prtua Methods of
stoppng ts progress caa de Guadara escapes the nfec-
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T BL 0 C0 T T .
|t
ton. Two pansh Mssonares. The rgn o| the ugk.
The Dawn Posary. tate of eve after the dsappear-
ance of the Dsorder p. 171 | 0
L TT P II.
Monks and rars. Instances of gross msconduct among hem.
Ther Infuence. Brother ebastan and Chares III.
The Carthusans. Hermts near Cordova. . p. 1 1 210
L TT P III.
uns. Motves for takng the e. Crcumstances attendng
that Ceremony. ccount of a young Lady compeed by her
Mother to take the Monastc ows. scrupuos, or Pegous
n ety. prtua rtaton. un Doctors. p. 211 228
L TT P I .
Memorandums of some ndausan Customs and estvas.
ant ebastan s Day : Carnva, p. 230. sh-Wednesday,
p. 23 . Md-ent, p. 24. Passon, or Hoy Week, p. 245.
Passon Wednesday, p. 251. Thursday n the Passon Week,
p. 252. Good rday, p. 2r)8 aturday before aster, p. 204.
May Cross, p. 207. Corpus Chrst, p. 208. ant |ohn s
ve, p. 274. ant Barthoomew, p. 277. Detached Pre-
|udces and Practces, p. 280. uneras of Infants and Mads,
p. 282 pansh Chrstan ames, p. 280. Chrstmas,
p. 288.
L TT P .
ketch of the Court of Madrd, n the Pegn of Chares the
ourth, and the Intrgues connected wth the Infuence of the
Prnce of the Peace p. 2 2 320
L TT P I.
Prvate Lfe at Madrd. Pretendentes. Lterary Characters.
p. 321 343
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II
T BL 0 C0 T T .
L TT P II.
vents connected wth the begnnng of the rench Invason.
The scura at the Tme of the rrest of the Prnce of
stuas. Pevouton at ran|uez and Madrd. Massacre of
the 2d of May, 1808 p. 344 372
L TT P III.
tate of pan at the tme of the genera Psng aganst the
rench, as observed n a |ourney from Madrd to eve,
through the Provnce of stremadura ... p. 373
PP DI n ccount of the uppresson of the |esuts n
pan p. 3 5
0T p. 411
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L TT P P0M P I .
L TT P I.
eve, May 17 8.
I am ncned to thnk wth you, that a panard,
who, ke mysef, has resded many years n ng-
and, s, perhaps, the fttest person to wrte an
account of fe, manners and opnons as they e st
n ths country, and to shew them n the ght
whch s most key to nterest an ngshman.
The most acute and dgent traveers are sub|ect
to constant mstakes and perhaps the more so,
for what s generay thought a crcumstance n
ther favour a moderate knowedge of foregn
anguages. traveer who uses ony hs eyes,
w confne hmsef to the descrpton of e terna
ob|ects and though hs narratve may be def-
cent n many topcs of nterest, t w certany
be e empt from great and udcrous bunders.
The dffcuty, whch a person, wth a smatterng
of the anguage of the country he s vstng, e pe-
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2
L TT P P0M P I .
rences every moment n the endeavour to com-
muncate hs own, and catch other men s thoughts,
often urges hm nto a sort of menta rashness,
whch eads hm to sette many a doubtfu pont
for hmsef, and to forget the unmted power, I
shoud have sad tyranny, of usage, n whatever
reates to anguage.
I st recoect the unucky ht I made on my
arrva n London, when, an ous beyond measure
to catch every domatc e presson, and readng
the huge nscrpton of the Cannon Brewery at
nghtsbrdge, as the budng had some re-
sembance to the great cannon-foundry n ths
town, I setted t n my mnd that the genune
ngsh dom, for what I shoud now ca castng,
was no other than brewng cannon. Ths, how-
ever, was a mere verba mstake. ot so that
whch I made when the word nursery stared me
n the face every fve mnutes, as n a fne after-
noon I approached your great metropos, on the
western road. Lu ury and weath, sad I to my-
sef, n a stran approachng to phosophc ndg-
naton, have at ast bunted the best feengs of
nature among the ngsh. urey, f I am to |udge
from ths endess strng of nurseres, the ngsh
ades have gone a step beyond the unnatura prac-
tce of devovng ther frst materna dutes upon
domestc hrengs. Here, t seems, the poor hep-
ess nfants are sent to be kept and sucked n
crowds, m a decent knd of oundng-Hosptas.
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L TT P P0M P I .
.)
o
ou may easy guess that I knew but one sgnf-
caton of the words nursng and nursery. or-
tunatey I was not coectng materas for a book
of traves durng a summer e curson, otherwse
I shoud now be en|oyng a the honour of the
orgnaty of my remarks on the customs and
manners of 0d ngand.
rom smar mstakes I thnk mysef safe enough
n speakng of my natve country but I wsh I
coud fee equa confdence as to the e ecuton of
the sketches you desre to obtan from me. I know
you too we to doubt that my etters w, by some
chance or other, fnd ther way to some of the
London Magaznes, before they have been ong n
your hands. nd ony thnk, I ntreat you, how I
sha fret and fdget under the apprehenson that
some of your pert newspaper wrters may rase a
augh aganst me n some of those uns or tars,
whch, n spte of ntervenng seas and mountans,
can dart a banefu nfuence, and bast the char
racter of nfabty, as an ngsh schoar, whch
I have acqured snce my return to pan. I have
so strongy rvetted the admraton of the Irsh
merchants n ths pace, that, n spte of ther ob-
|ecton to my not cang tea ta, they submt to my
decson every ntrcate queston about your pro-
vokng sha and w: and surey t woud be no
sma dsparagement, n ths and of proud Dons, to
be posted up n a London paper as a murderer of the
ng s ngsh. How fortunate was our famous
B 2
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4
L TT P P0M P I .
pansh traveer, my reatve, sprea (for you
know that there e sts a famy conne on between
us by my mother s sde) to fnd one of the best
wrters n ngand, wng to transate hs etters.
But snce you w not aow me to wrte n my
own anguage, and snce, to say the truth, I fee a
peasure n usng that whch remnds me of the
dear and whch has been my second home the
and where I drew my frst breath of berty the
and whch taught me how to retreve, though m-
perfecty and wth pan, the tme whch, under the
nfuence of gnorance and superstton, I had ost
n eary youth I w not deay a task whch,
shoud crcumstances aow me to compete t, I
ntend as a token of frendshp to you, and of grat-
tude and ove to your country.
ew traveers are equa to your countryman,
Mr. Townsend, n the truth and veness of hs
descrptons, as we as n the mass of usefu n-
formaton and depth of remark wth whch he has
presented the pubc . It woud be mpossbe
for any but a natve panard to add to the co-
ecton of trats descrptve of the natona character,
whch anmates hs narratve and I must confess
that he has rather confned me n the seecton of
my topcs. He has, ndeed, faen nto such ms-
takes and naccuraces, as nothng short of perfect
famarty wth a country can prevent. But I
ee sprea s Letters from ngand.
f He vsted pan n the years 178 and 1787.
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L TT P P0M P I .
may safey recommend hm to you as a gude for
a fuer acquantance wth the paces whose nha-
btants I ntend to make the chef sub|ect of my
etters. But that I may not ay upon you the
necessty of a constant reference, I sha begn by
provdng your fancy wth a oca habtaton for
the peope whose habts and modes of thnkng I
w forthwth attempt to pourtray.
The vew of Cadz from the sea, as, n a fne
day, you approach ts magnfcent harbour, s
one of the most attractve beauty. The strong
deep ght of a southern sky, refected from the ofty
budngs of whte free stone, whch face the bay,
rvets the eye of the navgator from the very verge
of the horzon. The sea actuay washes the ram-
parts, e cept where, on the opposte sde of the
town, t s dvded by a narrow neck of and, whch
|ons Cadz to the neghbourng contnent. When,
therefore, you begn to dscover the upper part of
the budngs, and the whte pnnaces of gazed
earthenware, resembng chna, that ornament the
parapets wth whch ther fat roofs are crowned
the ary structure, metng at tmes nto the dstant
gare of the waves, s more ke a peasng deuson
a knd of ata Morgana than the ofty, unform
massve budngs whch, rsng graduay before
the vesse, brng you back, however unwng, to
the du reates of fe. fter andng on a crowded
quay, you are ed the whoe depth of the ramparts
aong a dark vauted passage, at the farthest end
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L TT P P0M P I .
of whch, new-comers must submt to the scrutny
of the nferor custom-house offcers. ghteen-
pence spped nto ther hands wth the keys of
your trunks, w spare you the ve aton of seeng
your cothes and nen scattered about n the utmost
dsorder.
I forgot to te you, that scarcey does a boat
wth passengers approach the andng-stars of the
quay, when three or four Gaegos, (natves of the
provnce of Gaca) who are the ony porters n ths
town, w take a fearfu eap nto the boat, and
begn a scuffe, whch ends by the stronger sezng
upon the uggage. The successfu champon be-
comes your gude through the town to the pace
where you wsh to take up your abode. s ony
two gates are used as a thoroughfare the sea- gate,
Puerta de a Mar, and the and-gate, Pmrta de
Terra those who come by water are obged to
cross the great Market a pace not unke Covent
Garden, where the country peope e pose a sorts
of vegetabes and fruts for sae. sh s aso sod
at ths pace, where you see t ad out upon the
pavement n the same state as t was taken out of
the net. The nose and dn -of ths market are
absoutey ntoerabe. casses of panards,
not e cudng the ades, are rather oud and
bosterous n ther speech. But here s a conten-
ton between three or four hundred peasants, who
sha make hs harsh and guttura voce be upper-
most, to nform the passengers of the prce and
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L TT P P0M P I .
7
quaty of hs goods. In a word, the nose s such
as w astound any one, who has not ved for some
years near Cornh or Tempe Bar.
Pegon, or, f you pease, superstton, s so ,
ntmatey bended wth the whoe system of pubc
and domestc fe n pan, that I fear I sha tre
you wth the perpetua recurrence of that sub|ect.
I am aready compeed, by an nvountary tran of
deas, to enter upon that endess topc. If, how-
ever, you wsh to become thoroughy acquanted
wth the natona character of my country, you
must earn the character of the natona regon.
The nfuence of regon n pan s boundess. It
dvdes the whoe popuaton nto two comprehen-
sve casses, bgots and dssembers. Do not, how-
ever, mstake me. I am very far from wshng to
be my countrymen. If I use these nvdous
words, t s not that I beeve every panard ether
a downrght bgot or a hypocrte: yet I cannot
shut my eyes to the meancnoy fact, that the
system under whch we ve must unavodaby
gve, even to the best among us, a tant of one
of those vces. Where the aw threatens every
dssenter from such an encroachng system of
dvnty as that of the Church of Pome, wth death
- and nfamy where every ndvdua s not ony
nvted, but en|oned, at the per of both body and
sou, to assst n enforcng that aw must not an
undue and tyrannca nfuence accrue to the be-
evng party re not such as dsbeeve n secret,
,
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8
L TT P P0M P I .
condemned to a fe of degradng deference, or of
heart-burnng sence ence, dd I say o
every day, every hour, renews the necessty of e -
pcty decarng yoursef what you are not. The
most contemptbe ndvdua may, at peasure,
force outa e from an honesty proud bosom.
I must not, however, keep you any onger n
suspense as to the orgn of ths fght ths un-
prepared dgresson from the pan narratve I had
begun. ou know me we enough to beeve that
after a ong resdence n ngand, my andng at
Cadz, nstead of cheerng my heart at the sght of
my natve country, woud naturay produce a
m ed sensaton, n whch pan and goomness
must have had the ascendant. I had en|oyed the
bessngs of berty for severa years and now, aas
I perceved that I had been rresstby drawn back
by the hoest tes of affecton, to stretch out my
hands to the manaces, and bow my neck to that
yoke, whch had formery gaed my very sou.
The convent of an |uan de Dos (augh, my dear
frend, f you w: at what you ca my mona-
chophoba you may do so, who have never ved
wthn range of any of these uropean |unges,
where urks every thng that s hdeous and ve-
nomous) we, then, an |uan de Dos s the
frst remarkabe ob|ect that meets the eye upon en-
terng Cadz by the sea-gate. snge gance at
the convent had awakened the strongest and most
rooted aversons of my heart, when |ust as I was
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L TT P P0M P I .
0
wakng nto the nearest street to avod the crowd,
the we-remembered sound of a hand-be made me
nstanty aware that, uness pretendng not to hear
t, I coud retrace my steps, and turn another cor-
ner, I shoud be obged to knee n the mud t a
prest, who was carryng the consecrated wafer to
a dyng person, had moved sowy n hs sedan-
char from the farthest end of the street to the
pace where I began to hear the be.
The rue on these occasons, s e pressed n a
proverba sayng a Pey, en vendoo a Dos, en
uyendoo whch, after suppyng ts eptca form,
means that e terna homage s due to the kng upon
seeng hm: and to God . e. the host, preceded
by ts never-fang appendage, the be the very
moment you hear hm. I must add, as a prevous
e panaton of what s to foow, that God and the
kng are so couped n the anguage of ths country,
that the same tte of Ma|esty s apped to both.
ou hear, from the pupt, the dutes that men
owe to both Ma|estes and a foregner s often
surprsed at the hopes e pressed by the panards,
that hs Ma|esty w be peased to grant them fe
and heath for some years more. I must add a
very udcrous crcumstance arsng from ths
absurd form of speech. When the prest, attended
by the cerk, and surrounded by eght or ten peope,
bearng ghted fambeaus, has broken nto the
chamber of the dyng person, and gone through
a form of prayer, haf Latn, haf pansh, whch
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10
L TT P P0M P I .
asts for about twenty mnutes, one of the wafers s
taken out of a tte god casket, and put nto the
mouth of the patent as he es n bed. To swaow
the wafer wthout the oss of any partce whch,
accordng to the Counc of Trent, (and I fuy
agree wth the fathers) contans the same Dvne
person as the whoe s an operaton of some dff-
cuty. To obvate, therefore, the mproprety of
odgng a sacred atom, as t mght easy happen,
n a bad tooth, the cerk -comes forth wth a gass
of water, and n a frm and oud voce asks the
sck person, Is hs Ma|esty gone down The
answer enabes the earned cerk to decde whether
the passage s to be e pedted by means of hs
coong draught.
But I must return to my Gaego, and mysef.
o sooner had I caed hm back, as f I had sud-
deny changed my mnd as to the drecton n
whch we were to go, than wth a most determned
tone he sad Dos u Magestad. Pretendng
not to hear, I turned sharpy round, and was now
makng my retreat but t woud not do. red
wth hoy zea, he rased hs harsh voce, and n
the barbarous accent of hs provnce, repeated
/three or four tmes, Dos u Magestad
addng, wth an oath, Ths man s a heretc
There was no resstng that dreadfu word: t
pnned me to the ground. I took out my pocket-
The pansh words are Ha pasado su Magestad
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L TT P P0M P I .
11
handkerchef, and ayng t on the east drty part
of the pavement, knet upon t not ndeed to pray ,
but whe, as another act of conformty to the
custom of the country, I was beatng my breast
wth my cenched rght hand, as genty as t coud
be done wthout offence to curse the hour when
I had submtted thus to degrade mysef, and trem-
be at the mere suspcon of a beng tte removed
from the four-footed anmas, whom t was hs oc-
cupaton to reeve of ther burdens.
In the more popuous towns of pan, these
unpeasant meetngs are frequent. or are you
free from beng dsturbed by the hoy be n the
most retred part of your house. Its sound operates
ke magc upon the panards. In the mdst of a
gay, nosy party, the word u fagestad
w brng every one upon hs knees unt the tnk-
ng des n the dstance. re you at dnner
you must eave the tabe. In bed you must, at
east, st up. But the most preposterous effect of
ths custom s to be seen at the theatres. 0n the
approach of the host to any mtary guard, the
drum beats, the men are drawn out, and as soon as
the prest can be seen, they bend the rght knee,
and nvert the freocks, pacng the pont of the
bayonet on the ground. s an offcer s guard s
aways statoned at the door of a pansh theatre, I
have often aughed n my seeve at the effect of the
chanade both upon the actors and the company.
Dos, Dos / resounds from a parts of the

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12
L TT P P0M P I .
house, and every one fas that moment upon hs
knees. The actors rantng, or the rattng of the
castanets n the fandango, s hushed for a few
mnutes, t the sound of the be growng fanter
and fanter, the amusement s resumed, and the
devout performers are once more upon ther egs,
an ous to make amends for the nterrupton. o
powerfu s the effect of eary habt, that I had
been for some weeks n London before I coud
hear the postman s be n the evenng, wthout
feeng nstnctvey ncned to perform a due
genufecton.
Cadz, though fast decnng from the weath and
spendour to whch she had reached durng her
e cusve prvege to trade wth the Coones of
outh merca, s st one of the few towns of
pan, whch, for refnement, can be compared
wth some of the second rate n ngand. The
peope are hosptabe and. cheerfu. The women,
wthout beng at a beautfu, are reay fascnatng.
ome of the Tertuas, or evenng partes, whch a
smpe ntroducton to the ady of the house enttes
any one to attend day, are very vey and agree-
abe. o stffness of etquette prevas: you may
drop n when you ke, and eave the room when
t suts you. The young ades, however, w soon
ether fnd out, or magne, the house and company
to whch you gve the preference and a week s
acquantance w ay you open to a great dea of
good-natured banterng upon the cause of your
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L TT P P0M P I .
13
short cas. ngng to the gutar, or the pano,
s a very common resource at these meetngs. But
the musca acqurements of the pansh ades
cannot bear the most dstant comparson wth those
of the femae amateurs n London. In sngng,
however, they possess one great advantage that of
openng the mouth whch your ngsh Msses
seem to consder as a great breach of proprety.
The nhabtants of Cadz, beng confned to the
rock on whch ther cty s but, have made the
towns of Chcana, Puerto Pea, and Port t.
Mary s, ther paces of resort, especay n the
summer. The passage, by water, to Port t.
Mary s, s, upon an average, of about an hour and
a haf, and the ntercourse between the two paces,
neary as constant as between a arge cty and ts
suburbs. Boats fu of passengers are ncessanty
crossng from day-break t sun-set. Ths passage
s not, however, wthout danger n case of a strong
wnd from the east, n summer, or of rough weather,
n wnter. t the mouth of the Guadaete, a rver
that runs nto the bay of Cadz, by Port t. Mary s,
there are e tensve banks of shftng sands, whch
every year prove fata to many. The passage-boats
are often e cessvey crowded wth peope of a
descrptons. The panards, however, are not so
shy of strangers as I have generay found your
countrymen. Pace any two of them, mae or
femae, by the merest chance, together, and they
w mmedatey enter nto some conversaton.
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14
L TT P P0M P I .
The absoute dsregard to a stranger, whch custom
has estabshed n ngand, woud be taken for an
nsut n any part of pan consequenty tte
gravty s preserved n these aquatc e cursons.
In fne weather, when the femae part of the
company are not troubed wth fear or sckness,
the passengers nduge n a bosterous sort of mrth,
whch s congena to ndausans of a casses.
It s known by the od pansh word rana,
pronounced wth the outhern asprate, as f
wrtten Haranna. I do not know whether I sha
be abe to convey a noton of ths knd of amuse-
ment. It admts of no bertes of acton, whe
every aowance s made for words whch do not
amount to gross ndecency. It s f I may use
the e presson a conversatona row or, to
nduge a more strange assembage of deas, the
rana s to conversaton, what rompng s to
wakng arm n arm. In the mdst, however, of
hoarse augh and oud shoutng, as soon as the
boat reaches the shoas, the steersman, rasng hs
voce wth a gravty becomng a parsh-cerk,
addresses hmsef to the company n words amount-
ng to these Let us pray for the sous of a that
have pershed n ths pace. The pous address
of the boatman has a strkng effect upon the
company: for one or two mnutes every one
mutters a prvate prayer, whst a saor-boy goes
round coectng a few copper cons from the
passengers, whch are regousy spent n pro-
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L TT P P0M P I . 15
curng masses for the sous n purgatory. Ths
ceremony beng over, the rot s resumed wth
unabated sprt, t the very pont of andng.
I went by and to t. Lucar, a town of some
weath and consequence at the mouth of the
Guadaquvr, or Bcets, where ths rver s ost n
the sea through a channe of more than a me n
breadth. The passage to eve, of about twenty
pansh eagues up the rver, s tedous but I had
often performed t, n eary youth, wth great
peasure, and I now qute forgot the change whch
twenty years must have made upon my feengs.
o pansh conveyance s ether comfortabe or
e pedtous. The t. Lucar boats are cumsy and
heavy, wthout a snge accommodaton for passen-
gers. Haf of the hod s covered wth hatches,
but so ow, that one cannot stand uprght under
them. pece of canvass, oosey et down to
the bottom of the boat, s the ony partton be-
tween the passengers and the saors. It woud be
e tremey unpeasant for any person, above the
ower cass, to bear the nconvenences of a m ed
company n one of these boats. ortunatey, t s
nether dffcut nor e pensve to obtan the e -
cusve hre of one. ou must submt, however, at
the tme of embarkaton, to the dsagreeabe cr-
cumstance of rdng on a man s shouders from the
water s edge to a tte skff, whch, from the fat-
ness of the shore, es watng for the passengers at
the dstance of ffteen or twenty yards.
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1C
L TT P P0M P I .
The country, on both sdes of the rver, s for the
most part, fat and desoate. The eye roves n van
over vast pans of auva ground n search of
some marks of human habtaton. Herds of back
catte, and arge focks of sheep, are seen on two
consderabe sands formed by dfferent branches
of the rver. The ferce ndausan bus, kept by
themseves n arge encosures, where, wth a vew
to ther appearance on the arena, they are made
more savage by sotude are seen straggng here
and there down to the brnk of the rver, tossng
ther shaggy heads, and pawng the ground on the
approach of the boat.
The wndngs of the rver, and the growng
shaows, whch obstruct ts channe, obge the
boats to wat for the tde, e cept when there s a
strong wnd from the south. fter two tedous
days, and two uncomfortabe nghts, I found mysef
under the Torre de 0ro, a arge octagon tower of
great antquty, and generay supposed to have
been but by |uus Cresar, whch stands by the
moe or quay of the capta of ndausa, my na-
tve, and by me, ong deserted town. Townsend
w acquant you wth ts stuaton, ts genera
aspect, and the remarkabe budngs, whch are
the boast of the evanos. My task w be con-
fned to the descrpton of such pecuartes of the
country as he dd not see, or whch must have
escaped hs notce.
The eastern custom of budng houses on the
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L TT P P0M P I .
17
four sdes of an open area s so genera n n-
dausa, that, t my frst |ourney to Madrd, I
confess, I was perfecty at a oss to conceve a ha-
btabe dweng n any other shape. The houses
are generay two stores hgh, wth a gaery, or
corrector, whch, as the name mpes, runs aong
the four, or at east the three sdes of the Pdto,
or centra square, affordng an e terna commun-
caton between the rooms above stars, and formng
a covered wak over the doors of the ground-foor
apartments. These two sutes of rooms are a
counterpart to -each other, beng aternatey n-
habted or deserted n the seasons of wnter and
summer. bout the mdde of 0ctober every
house n eve s n a compete buste for two or
three days. The ower apartments are strpped of
ther furnture, and every char and tabe nay,
the ktchen vesta, wth a her aboratory are
ordered off to wnter quarters. Ths change of
habtaton, together wth mats ad over the brck-
foors, thcker and warmer than those used n sum-
mer, s a the provson aganst cod, whch s
made n ths country. fat and open brass pan
of about two feet dameter, rased a few nches
from the ground by a round wooden frame, on
whch, those who st near t, may rest ther feet
s used to burn charcoa made of brush-wood,
whch the natves ca csco. The fumes of char-
coa are n|urous to heath but such s the ef-
fect of habt, that the natves are sedom aware of
c
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18
L TT P P0M P I .
any nconvenence arsng from the chokng sme
of ther brasers.
The precautons aganst heat, however, are nu-
merous. bout the atter end of May the whoe
popuaton moves down stars. thck awnng,
whch draws and undraws my means of ropes and
pues, s stretched over the centra square, on a
eve wth the roof of the house. The wndow-
shutters are neary cosed from mornng t sun-set,
admttng |ust ght enough to see one another,
provded the eyes have not atey been e posed to
the gare of the streets. The foors are washed
every mornng, that the evaporaton of the water
mbbed by the brcks, may abate the heat of the
ar. very ght mat, made of a decate sort of
rush, and dyed wth a varety of coours, s used
nstead of a carpet. The Pdto, or square, s or-
namented wth fower-pots, especay round a |et
d eau, whch n most houses occupes ts centre.
Durng the hot season the ades st and receve
ther frends n the Pdto. The street-doors are
generay open but nvaraby so from sunset t
eeven or tweve n the nght. Three or four very
arge gass amps are hung n a ne from the street-
door to the opposte end of the Pdto and, as n
most houses, those who meet at nght for a Ter-
ha, are vsbe from the streets, the town presents
a very pretty and anmated scene t near md-
nght. The poorer cass of peope, to avod the
ntoerabe heat of ther habtatons, pass a great
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L TT P P0M P I .
1
part of the nght n conversaton at ther doors
whe persons of a descrptons are movng about
t ate, ether to see ther frends, or to en|oy the
coo ar n the pubc waks.
Ths gay scene vanshes, however, on the ap-
proach of wnter. The peope retreat to the
upper foors the -ghted streets are deserted
at the cose of day, and become so danger-
ous from robbers, that few but the young and
adventurous retre home from the Tertua wth-
out beng attended by a servant, sometmes bear-
ng a ghted torch. The free access to every
house, whch prevas n summer, s now checked
by the cauton of the nhabtants. The entrance
to the houses es through a passage wth two doors,
one to the street, and another caed the mdde-
door (for there s another at the top of the stars)
whch opens nto the Pdto. Ths passage s
caed aguan a pure rabc word, whch means,
I beeve, a porch. The mdde-door s generay
shut n the day-tme : the outer one s never cosed
but at nght. Whoever wants to be admtted
must knock at the mdde-door, and be prepared
to answer a queston, whch, as t presents one of
those tte pecuartes whch you are so fond of
hearng, I sha not consder as unworthy of a
pace n my narratve.
The knock at the door, whch, by-the-by, must
be snge, and by no means oud n fact, a trades-
man s knock n London s answered wth a T ho
c 2
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-20
L TT P P0M P I .
s there To ths queston the stranger repes,
Peacefu peope, Gente de paz and the door s
opened wthout farther enqures. Peasants and
beggars ca out at the door, Ha, spotess
Mary ve, Mara pursma The answer, n
that case, s gven from wthn n the words n
v pecado coneebda : Conceved wthout sn. Ths
custom s a remnant of the ferce controversy,
whch e sted about three hundred years ago,
between the rancscan and the Domncan frars,
whether the rgn Mary had or not been sub|ect
to the pena consequences of orgna sn. The
Domncans were not wng to grant any e emp-
ton whe the rancscans contended for the
proprety of such a prvege. The panards, and
especay the evans, wth ther characterstc
gaantry, stood for the honour of our Lady, and
embraced the atter opnon so warmy, that they
turned the watch-word of ther party nto the
form of address, whch s st so prevaent n nda-
usa. Durng the heat of the dspute, and before
the Domncans had been senced by the autho-
rty of the Pope, the peope of eve began to
assembe at varous churches, and, sayng forth
wth an embematca pcture of the sness Mary,
set upon a sort of standard surmounted by a cross,
paraded the cty n dfferent drectons, sngng a
hymn to the Immacuate Concepton, and repeatng
aoud ther beads or rosary. These processons
have contnued to our tmes, and consttute one of
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L TT P P0M P I . 21
the nghty nusances of ths pace. Though con-
fned at present to the ower casses, those that
|on n them assume that characterstc mportance
and overbearng sprt, whch attaches to the most
nsgnfcant regous assocatons n ths country.
Wherever one of these shabby processons presents
tsef to the pubc, t takes up the street from sde
to sde, stoppng the passengers, and e pectng
them to stand uncovered n a knds of weather,
t the standard s gone by. Ther awkward and
heavy banners are caed, at eve, npecados,
that s, sness, from the theoogca opnon n
support of whch they were rased.
The pansh government, under Chares III.,
shewed the most udcrous eagerness to have the
sness purty of the rgn Mary added by the
Pope to the artces of the Poman Cathoc fath.
The court of Pome, however, wth the cautous
sprt whch has at a tmes guded ts sprtua
potcs, endeavoured to keep cear from a stretch
of authorty, whch, even some of ther own
dvnes woud be ready to queston but spttng,
as t were, the dfference wth theoogca precson,
the censures of the church were eveed aganst
such as shoud have the bodness to assert that
the rgn Mary had derved any tant from her
great ancestor and, havng personfed the Imma-
cuate Concepton, t was decared, that the pansh
domnons n urope and merca were under the
protectng nfuence of that mysterous event.
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22
L TT P P0M P I .
Ths decaraton dffused unversa |oy over the
whoe naton. It was ceebrated wth pubc re-
|ocngs on both sdes of the tantc. The kng
nsttuted an order dstngushed by the embem of
the Immacuate Concepton a woman dressed n
whte and bue and a aw was enacted, requrng
a decaraton, upon oath, of a frm beef n the
Immacuate Concepton, from every ndvdua, pre-
vous to hs takng any degree at the unverstes,
or beng admtted nto any of the corporatons,
cv and regous, whch abound n pan. Ths
oath s admnstered even to mechancs upon ther
beng made free of a Gud.
Here, however, I must break off, for fear of
makng ths packet too arge for the confdenta
conveyance, to whch aone I coud trust t wthout
great rsk of fnshng my task n one of the ces
of the Hoy Inquston. I w not fa, however,
to resume my sub|ect as soon as crcumstances
permt me.
ee ote , at the end of the oume.
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L TT P P0M P I .
23
L TT P II.
eve 17 8.
T0 . D. C. ft.
My Dear r our etter, acquantng me wth
Lady s desre that you shoud take an actve
part n our correspondence on pan, has ncreased
my hopes of carryng on a work, whch I feared
woud soon grow no ess tresome to our frend than
to me. 0b|ects whch bend themseves wth our
day habts are most apt to eude our observaton
and w, ke some dreams, feet away through the
mnd, uness an accdenta word or thought shoud
set attenton on the fast-fadng track of ther course.
othng, therefore, can be of greater use to me
than your queres, or hep me so much as your ob-
servatons.
ou must e cuse, however, my decnng to gve
you a sketch of the natona character of the pa-
nards. I have aways consdered such descrptons
as absoutey unmeanng a mere assembage of
anttheses, where good and bad quates are con-
trasted for effect, and wth tte foundaton n na-
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24
L TT P P0M P I .
ture. o man s powers of observaton can be, at
once, so accurate and e tensve, so mnute and ge-
nerazng, as to be capabe of embodyng the pe-
cuar features of mons nto an abstract beng,
whch sha contan traces of them a. et ths
s what most traveers attempt after a few weeks
resdence what we are accustomed to e pect from
the tme that a Geographca Grammar s frst put
nto our hands. I sha not, therefore, attempt ether
abstracton or cassfcaton, but endeavour to co-
ect as many facts as may enabe others to perceve
the genera tendency of the cv and regous state
of my country, and to |udge of ts nfuence on the
mprovement or degradaton of ths porton of man-
knd, ndependenty of the endess modfcatons
whch arse from the crcumstances, e terna and
nterna, of every ndvdua. I w not overook,
however, the great dvsons of socety, and sha
therefore acquant you wth the chef sources of
dstncton whch both aw and custom have esta-
bshed among us.
The most comprehensve, dvson of the peope
of pan s that of nobes and pebeans. But I must
cauton you aganst a mstaken noton whch these
words are apt to convey to an ngshman. In
pan, any person whose famy, ether by mme-
mora prescrpton, or by the kng s patent, s en-
tted to e empton from some burdens, and to the
en|oyment of certan prveges,- beongs to the cass
of nobty. It appears to me that ths dstncton
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L TT P P0M P I .
25
orgnated n the aotment of a certan porton of
ground n towns conquered from the Moors. In
some patents of nobty I cannot say whether
they are a ake the kng, after an enumeraton
of the prveges and e emptons to whch he rases
the famy, adds the genera cause, that they, sha
be consdered n a respects, as Hdagos de casa y
soar concdo Hdagos, . e. nobes (for the words
are become synonymous) of a known famy and
ground-pot Many of the e emptons attached to
ths cass of rankns, or nferor nobty, have
been wthdrawn n our tmes, not, however, wth-
out a dstnct recognton of the rank of such as
coud cam them before the amendment of the aw.
But st a pansh genteman, or Cavaero a name
whch e presses the prveged gentry n a ts nu-
merous and undefned gradatons cannot be ba-
otted for the mta and none but an Hdago can
enter the army as a cadet. In the routne of promo-
ton, ten cadets, I beeve, must receve a commsson
before a er|eant can have hs turn and even that
s often passed over. uch as are fortunate enough to
be rased from the ranks can sedom escape the re-
serve and sght of ther prouder feow-offcers
and the common appeaton of Pnos, pne-trees
audng, probaby, to the heght requred n a
ser|eant, ke that of freedman, among the Pomans,
mpes a stan whch the frst stuatons n the army
cannot competey obterate.
obesse, as I sha ca t, to avod an equvoca
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2(5 L TT P P0M P I .
term, descends from the father to a hs mae ch-
dren, for ever. But though a femae cannot trans-
mt ths prvege to her ssue, her beng the daughter
of an Hdago s of absoute necessty to consttute
what, n the anguage of the country, s caed, a
nobeman on four sdes nobe de quatro costados :
that s, a man whose parents, ther parents, and
ther parents parents, beonged to the prveged
cass. one but these square nobemen can receve
the order of knghthood. But we are faen on de-
generate tmes, and I coud name many a knght n
ths town who has been furnshed wth more than
one corner by the de terty of the notares, who act
as secretares n coectng and drawng up the
proofs and documents requred on these occasons.
There e sts another dstncton of bood, whch,
I thnk, s pecuar to pan, and to whch the mass
of the peope are so bndy attached, that the mean-
est peasant ooks upon the want of t as a source of
msery and degradaton, whch he s doomed to
transmt to hs atest posterty. The east m ture
of frcan, Indan, Moorsh, or |ewsh bood, tants
a whoe famy to the most dstant generaton. or
does the knowedge of such a fact de away n the
course of years, or become unnotced from the
obscurty and humbeness of the partes. ot a
chd n ths popuous cty s gnorant that a famy,
who, beyond the memory of man have kept a con-
fectoner s shop n the centra part of the -town, had
one of ther ancestors punshed by the Inquston for
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L TT P P0M P I .
27
-a reapse nto |udasm. I we recoect how, when a
boy, I often passed that way, scarcey venturng to
cast a sde gance on a pretty young woman who
constanty attended the shop, for fear, as I sad to
mysef, of shamng her. person free from tanted
bood s denned by aw, an od Chrstan, cean
from a bad race and stan, Chrstano ve|o, mpo
de toda maa raza, y mancha. The severty of ths
aw, or rather of the pubc opnon enforcng t,
shuts out ts vctms from every empoyment n
church or state, and e cudes them even from the
raterntes, or regous assocatons, whch are
otherwse open to persons of the owest ranks. I
very beeve, that were t. Peter a panard, he
woud ether deny admttance nto heaven to peo-
pe of tanted bood, or send them to a retred
corner, where they mght not offend the eyes of
the od Chrstans.
But aas what has been sad of aws and I be-
eve t true n most countres, ancent and modern,
e cept ngand that they are ke cobwebs, whch
entrap the weak, and yed to the strong and bod,
s equay, and perhaps more generay appcabe
to pubc opnon. It s a fact, that many of the
grandees, and the tted nobesse of ths country,
derve a arge porton of ther bood from |ews and
Morscoes. Ther pedgree has been traced up to
those cankered branches, n a manuscrpt book,
whch nether the threats of Government, nor the
terrors of the Inquston, have been abe to sup-
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28 L TT P P0M P I .
press competey. It s caed Tzon de spaha
the Brand of pan. But weath and power have
set opnon at defance and whe a poor ndus-
trous man, humhed by feengs not unke those
of an Indan Para, w hardy venture to saute hs
neghbour, because, forsooth, hs fourth or ffth
ancestor fe nto the hands of the Inquston for
decnng to eat pork the proud grandee, perhaps a
nearer descendant of the Patrarchs, w thnk hm-
sef degraded by marryng the frst gentewoman n
the kngdom, uness she brngs hm a hat, n add-
ton to the s or eght whch he may be aready
entted to wear before the kng. But ths requres
some e panaton.
The hghest prvege of a grandee s that of co-
verng hs head before the kng. Hence, by two or
more hats n a famy, t s meant that t has a rght,
by nhertance, to as many ttes of grandeeshp.
Prde havng confned the grandees to ntermar-
rages n ther own caste, and the estates and ttes
beng nhertabe by femaes, an enormous accumu-
aton of property and honours has been made n a
few hands. The chef am of every famy s con-
stanty to ncrease ths preposterous accumuaton.
Ther chdren are marred, by dspensaton, n ther
nfancy, to some great her or heress and such s
the muttude of famy names and ttes whch every
grandee cams and uses, that f you shoud ook
nto a smpe passport gven by the pansh m-
bassador n London, when he happens to bea mem-
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L TT P P0M P I .
2
ber of the ancent pansh fames, you w fnd
the whoe frst page of a arge fooscap sheet, em-
poyed merey to te you who the great man s
whose sgnature s to cose the whoe. s far as
vanty aone s concerned, ths ambtous dspay of
rank and parentage, mght, at ths tme of day, be
dsmssed wth a sme. But there urks a more
serous ev n the absurd and nvdous system so
studousy preserved by our frst nobty. ur-
rounded by ther own dependents, and avoded by
the gentry, who are sedom dsposed for an nter-
course n whch a sense of nferorty prevas, few
of the grandees are e empt from the natura conse-
quences of such a fe gross gnorance, ntoerabe
concet, and sometmes, though sedom, a strong
dose of vugarty. I woud, however, be |ust, and
by no means ta ndvduas wth every vce of the
cass. But I beeve I speak the prevaent sense of
the country upon ths pont. The grandees have
degraded themseves by ther savsh behavour at
Court, and ncurred great odum by ther ntoerabe
ars abroad. They have runed ther estates by ms-
management and e travagance, and mpovershed
the country by the negect of ther mmense pos-
sessons. houd there be a revouton n pan,
wounded prde, and party sprt, woud deny them
the proper share of power n the consttuton, to
whch ther ands, ther ancent rghts, and ther
remanng nfuence entte them. Thus e cuded
from ther chef and pecuar duty of keepng the
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30
L TT P P0M P I .
baance of power between the throne and the peo-
pe, the pansh grandees w reman a heavy bur-
then on the naton whe, ether fearng for ther
overgrown prveges, or mpatent under reforms
whch must fa chefy on them and the cergy,
they w aways be ncned to |on the crown n
restorng the abuses of arbtrary government.
Woud to Heaven that an opportunty presented
tsef for re-modeng our consttuton after the
ony potca system whch has been sanctoned
by the e perence of ages I mean your own. We
have neary the same eements n e stence and
ow and degraded as we are by the banefu n-
fuence of despotsm, we mght yet by a proper
combnaton of our potca forces, ay down the
bass of a permanent and mprovabe free const-
tuton. But I greaty fear that we have been too
ong n chans, to make the best use of the frst
moments of berty. Perhaps the crown, as we
as the casses of grandees and bshops, w be suf-
fered to e st, from want of power n the popuar
party but they w be made worse than useess
through negect and |eaousy. I am nether what
you ca a tory nor a bgot nor am I ndtng a
prophetc eegy on the dmnshed gores of crowns,
coronets and mtres. eveng sprt I detest
ndeed, and from my heart do I abhor every sort of
spoaton. Many years, however, must pass, and
strange events take pace, before any such evs
can threaten ths country. pansh despotsm s
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L TT P P0M P I .
31
not of that nsutng and rrtatng nature whch
drves a whoe peope to madness. It s not the
despotsm of the taskmaster whose ash sows
vengeance n the hearts of hs saves. It s the
cautous forecast of the husbandman who mutates
the catte whose strength he fears. The degraded
anma grows up, unconscous of the n|ury, and
after a short tranng, one mght thnk he comes at
ast to ove the yoke. uch, I beeve, s our state.
Ta es, among us, are rather -contrved than
grndng and mons of the ower casses are
not aware of the share they contrbute. They a
ove ther kng, however they may dske the
e cseman. egneura rghts are hardy n e st-
ence : and both gentry and peasantry fnd tte to
remnd them of the e orbtant power whch the
mprovdent and sothfu fe of the grandees, at
court, aows to e dormant and wastng n ther
hands. The ma|orty of the naton are more n-
cned to despse than to hate them and though
few men woud ft up a fnger to support ther
rghts, fewer st woud mtate the rench n
carryng fre and sword to ther mansons.
or bshops and ther sprtua power |uan
spano has as greedy and capacous a stomach,
as |ohn Bu for roast beaf and ae. 0ne snge
cass of peope fees gaed and restess, and that
unfortunatey nether s, nor can be, numerous n
name denotng the pan unsophstcated panard.
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32
L TT P P0M P I .
ths country. The cass I mean conssts of such as
are abe to perceve the encroachments of tyranny
on ther nteectua rghts whose prde of mnd,
and conscousness of menta strength, cause them
to groan and fret, day and houry, under the neces-
sty of keepng wthn the mry and crooked paths
to whch gnorance and superstton have confned
the actve sous of the panards. But these, com-
pared wth the buk of the naton, are but a mere
handfu. et, they may, under favourabe crcum-
stances, recrut and augment ther forces wth the
ambtous of a casses. They w have, at frst,
to dsguse ther vews, to concea ther favourte
doctrnes, and even to chersh those natona pre|u-
dces, whch, were ther rea vews known, woud
crush them to atoms. The mass of the peope may
acquesce for a tme n the new order of thngs,
party from a vague desre of change and mprove-
ment, party from the passve potca habts whch
a du and deadenng despotsm has bred and rooted
n the course of ages. The army may cast the
decsve weght of the sword on the popuar sde of
the baance, as ong as t suts ts vews. But f
the church and the great nobty are negected n
the dstrbuton of egsatve power f, nstead of
aurng them nto the path of berty wth the
sweet bat of consttutona nfuence, they are ony
aarmed for ther rghts and prveges, wthout a
hope of compensaton, they may be shoveed and
heaped asde, ke a mountan of dead and nert
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L TT P P0M P I . 38
sand but they w stand, n ther massve and
ponderous ndoence, ready to sde down at every
moment, and bury the sma actve party beow,
upon the east dvson of ther strength. house,
or chamber of peers, composed of grandees n ther
own rght that s, not, as s done at present, by
the transfer of one of the ttes accumuated n the
same famy of the bshops, and of a certan num-
ber of aw ords reguary chosen from the supreme
court of |udcature (a measure of the greatest m-
portance to dscourage the dstncton of bood,
whch s, perhaps, the worst ev n the present
state of the great pansh nobty), mght, ndeed,
check the work of reformaton to a sower pace
than accords wth the natura eagerness of a popuar
party. But the egsatve body woud possess a
reguator wthn tsef, whch woud fathfuy mark
the gradua capacty for mprovement n the naton.
The members of the prveged chamber woud
themseves be mproved and enghtened by the
e ercse of consttutona power, and the pervadng
nfuence of pubc dscusson: whe, shoud they
be overooked n any future attempt at a free con-
sttuton, they w, ke a dseased and negected
mb, spread nfecton over the whoe body, or, at
ast, e pose t to the hazard of a boody and danger-
ous amputaton. But t s tme to return to our
Hdagos.
s the Hdaqua branches out through every
D
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34 L TT P P0M P I .
mae whose father en|oys that prvege, pan s
overrun wth gentry, who earn ther vng n the
meanest empoyments. The provnce of sturas
havng afforded sheter to that sma porton of the
naton whch preserved the pansh name and
throne aganst the efforts of the conquerng rabs
there s hardy a natve of that mountanous tract,
who, even at ths day, cannot shew a ega tte to
honours and mmuntes ganed by hs ancestors, at
a tme when every soder had ether a share n the
terrrory recovered from the nvaders, or was
rewarded wth a perpetua e empton from such
ta es and servces as fe e cusvey upon the
smpe peasantry. The numerous assertors of
these prveges among the sturans of the present
day, ead me to thnk that n the earest tmes of
the pansh monarchy every soder was rased to the
rank of a rankn. But crcumstances are strangey
atered. sturas s one of the poorest provnces
of pan, and the nobe nhabtants havng, for the
most part, nherted no other patrmony from ther
ancestors than a strong muscuar frame, are com-
peed to make the best of t among the more feebe
trbes of the south. In ths capta of ndausa
they have engrossed the empoyments of watermen,
Gente and smpe, as I fnd n those ne haustbe sources
of nteectua deght, the oves b| the author of Waverey,
are used by the cottsh peasants n the same manner as obe,
and Lano, (pan, smpe) by the panards.
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L TT P P0M P I .
porters, and footmen. Those beongng to the two
frst casses are formed nto a fraternty, whose
members have a rght to the e cusve use of a
chape n the cathedra. The prvege whch they
vaue most, however, s that of affordng the twenty
stoutest men to convey the moveabe stage on
whch the consecrated host s paraded n pubc,
on Corpus Chrst day, enshrned n a sma tempe
of massve sver. The bearers are conceaed
behnd rch god-coth hangngs, whch reach the
ground on the four sdes of the stage. The weght
of the whoe machne s enormous yet these twenty
men bear t on the hnd part of the head and neck,
movng wth such astonshng ease and reguarty,
as f the moton arose from the mpuse of steam, or
some steady mechanca power.
Whe these Gentemen Hdagos are empoyed n
such ungente servces, though the aw aows them
the e emptons of ther cass, pubc opnon con-
fnes them to ther natura eve. The ony chance
for any of these dsgused nobemen to be pubcy
treated wth due honour and deference s, unfor-
tunatey, one for whch they fee an unconquerabe
averson that of beng devered nto the rude
hands of a pansh |ack etch. We had here, two
years ago, an nstance of ths, whch I sha reate, as
beng hghy characterstc of our natona pre|u-
dces about bood.
0
gang of fve bandtt was taken wthn the
d 2
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3
L TT P P0M P I .
|ursdcton of ths udenca, or. chef court of
|ustce, one of whom, though born and brought up
among the owest ranks of socety, was, by famy,
an Hdago, and had some reatons among the
better cass of gentemen. I beeve the name of
the unfortunate man was Herrera, and that he was
a natve of a town about thrty ngsh mes from
eve, caed e raha. But I have not, at pre-
sent, the means of ascertanng the accuracy of
these partcuars. fter ngerng, as usua, four
or fve years n prson, these unfortunate men were
found guty of severa murders and hghway rob-
beres, and sentenced to suffer death. The reatons
of the Hdago, who, foreseeng ths fata event, had
been watchng the progress of the tra, n order to
step forward |ust n tme to avert the stan whch
a cousn, n the second or thrd remove, woud
cast upon ther famy, f he ded n md-ar ke a
van presented a petton to the |udges, accom-
paned wth the requste documents, camng for
ther reatve the honours of hs rank, and engagng
to pay the e penses attendng the e ecuton of a
nobeman. The petton beng granted as a matter
of course, the foowng scene took pace. t a
short dstance from the gaows on whch the four
smpe robbers were to be hanged n a custer, from
the centra pont of the cross beam, a dressed n
whte shrouds, w| h ther hands ted before them,
that the hangman, who actuay rdes upon the
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L TT P P0M r I .
37
shouders of the crmna, may pace hs foot as n
a strrup, was rased a scaffod about ten feet
hgh, on an area of about ffteen by twenty, the
whoe of whch and down to the ground, on a
sdes, was covered wth back baze. In the centre
of the scaffod was erected a sort of arm-char, wth
a stake for ts back, aganst whch, by means of
an ron coar attached to a screw, the neck s
crushed by one turn of the hande. Ths machne
s caed Garrote a stck from the od-
fashoned method of strangng, by twstng the
fata cord wth a stck. Two fghts of steps on
opposte sdes of the stage, afforded a separate
access, one for the crmna and the prest, the
other for the e ecutoner and hs attendant.
The convct, dressed n a oose gown of back
baze, rode on a horse, a mark of dstncton pecu-
ar to hs cass, (pebeans rdng on an ass, or
beng dragged on a hurde,) attended by a prest,
and a notary, and surrounded by soders. Back
sk cords were prepared to bnd hm to the arms
of the seat for ropes are thought dshonourabe.
fter kneeng to receve the ast absouton from
the prest, he took off a rng, wth whch the un-
fortunate man had been provded for that mean-
choy occason. ccordng to etquette he shoud
have dsdanfuy thrown t down for the e ecu-
The Cortes have aboshed ths barbarous method of nfct-
ng death.
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3
L TT P P0M P I ,
toner but, as a mark of Chrstan humty, he
put t nto hs hand. The sentence beng e e-
cuted, four sver candestcks, fve feet hgh, wth
burnng wa -candes of a proportonate ength
and thckness, were paced at the corners of the
scaffod and n about three hours, a sutabe
funera was conducted by the posthumous frends
of the nobe robber, who, had they asssted hm to
sette n fe wth haf of what they spent n ths
absurd and dsgustng show, mght, perhaps have
saved hm from hs fata end. But these honours
beng what s caed a postve act of nobesse, of
whch a due certfcate s gven to the survvng
partes, to be recorded among the ega proofs of
ther rank they may have acted under the dea
that ther reatve was ft ony to add ustre to the
famy by the cose of hs career.
The nnumerabe and fancfu gradatons of
famy rank whch the panards have formed to
themseves, wthout the east foundaton n the
aws of the country, are dffcut to descrbe.
Though the Hdagua s a necessary quafcaton,
especay n country towns, to be admtted nto
the best socety, t s by no means suffcent, by
tsef, to rase the vews of every Hdago to a
famy conne on wth the bue bood sangre
azuof the country. The shades by whch the vta
fud approaches ths prveged hue, woud perpe
the best coourst. These pre|udces, however,
have ost much of ther force at Madrd, e cept
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L TT P P0M P I .
among the grandees, and n such martme towns
as Maaga and Cadz, where commerce has rased
many new, and some foregn fames nto conse-
quence. But there s a pervadng sprt of vanty
n the naton, whch actuates even the owest
casses, and may be dscovered n the evdent mor-.
tfcaton whch menas and mechancs are apt to
fee, on the omsson of some modes of address
ntended, as t were, to cast a ve on the humbe-
ness of ther condton. To ca a man by the
name of backsmth, butcher, coachman, woud be
consdered an nsut. They a e pect to be caed
ether by ther Chrstan name, or by the genera
appeaton Maestro and n both cases wth the
pref ed etor uness the word e pressng the
empoyment shoud mpy superorty: as May-
ora, chef coachman Pabadan, chef shep-
herd perador, baff. These, and smar names,
are used wthout an addton, and sound we n
the ears of the natves. But no femae woud
suffer hersef to be addressed cook, washer-wo-
man, c. they a fee and act as f, havng a
natura cam to a hgher rank, msfortune aone
had degraded them. Poverty, uness t be e treme,
does not dsquafy a man of famy for the socety
of hs equas. ecuar cergymen, though pe-
beans, are, generay, we receved but the same
ndugence s not ready e tended to monks and
frars, whose unposhed manners betray too openy
the meanness of ther brth. Whoesae merchants,
f they beong to the cass of Hdagos, are not
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40
L TT P P0M P I .
avoded by the great gentry. In the aw, attorneys
and notares are consdered to be under the ne of
Cavaeros, though ther rank, as n ngand, de-
pends a great dea on ther weath and persona
respectabty. Physcans are neary n the same
case.
Havng now made you acquanted wth what s
here caed the best sort of peope, you w pro-
baby ke to have a sketch of ther day fe: take
t, then, nether from the frst, nor the ast of the
cass.
Breakfast, n pan, s not a reguar famy mea.
It generay conssts of chocoate, and buttered
toast, or muffns, caed moetes. Irsh sat-butter
s very much n use as the heat of the cmate
does not aow the u ures of the dary, e cept n
the mountanous tracts of the north. very one
cas for chocoate whenever t suts hm and
most peope take t when they come from mass a
ceremony sedom omtted, even by such as cannot
be reckoned among the hghy regous. fter
breakfast, the gentemen repar to ther occupa-
tons and the ades, who sedom ca upon one
another, often en|oy the amusement of musc and a
sermon at the church apponted on that day for
the pubc adoraton of the Consecrated Host,
whch, from mornng t nght, takes pace through-
out the year n ths, and a few other arge towns.
Ths s caed e |ubeo the |ubee as, by a
sprtua grant of the Pope, those who vst the
apponted church, are entted to the penary ndu-
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L TT P P0M P I . 41
gence whch, n former tmes, rewarded the troube
and dangers of a |ourney to Pome, on the frst
year of every century a poor substtute, ndeed,
for the ud sacuares, whch, n former tmes, drew
peope thther from a parts of the Poman empre
The bat, however, was so successfu for a tme,
that |ubees were ceebrated every twenty-fve
years. But when the taste for papa ndugences
began to be coyed by e cess, few woud move a
foot, and much ess undertake a ong |ourney, to
spend ther money for the beneft of the Pope and
hs Poman sub|ects. In these desperate crcum-
stances, the Hoy ather thought t better to send
the |ubee, wth ts penary ndugence, to the ds-
tant sheep of hs fock, than to wat n van for
ther comng to seek t at Pome. To ths effort of
pastora generosty we owe the nestmabe advan-
tage of beng abe, every day, to perform a sprtua
vst to t. Peter s at Pome whch, to those who
are ndfferent about archtectura beauty, s n-
fntey cheaper, and |ust as proftabe, as a pgr-
mage to the vcnty of the Capto.
bout noon the ades are at home, where, em-
poyed at ther neede, they e pect the mornng
cas of ther frends. I have aready tod you how
easy t s for a genteman to gan an ntroducton to
any famy: the sghtest occason w produce
what s caed an offer of the house, when you are
teray tod that the house s yours. Upon the
strength of ths offer, you may drop n as often as
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42
L TT P P0M P I .
you pease, and de away hour after hour, n the
most unmeanng, or t may chance, the most n-
terestng conversaton.
The menton of ths offer of the house nduces
me to gve you some dea of the hyperboca cv-
ty of my countrymen. When an ngsh nobe-
man, we known both to you and me, was some
years ago traveng n ths country, he wshed to
spend a fortnght at Barceona but, the nn beng
rather uncomfortabe for hmsef and famy, he was
desrous of procurng a country-house n the negh-
bourhood of the town. It happened at ths tme
that a rch merchant, for whom our frend had
a etter, caed to pay hs respects and n a
strng of hgh-fown compments, assured hs Lord-
shp that both hs town-house and hs va were
entrey at hs servce. My ady s eyes sparked
wth |oy, and she was rather ve ed that her hus-
band had hestated a moment to secure the va
for hs famy. Doubts arose as to the sncerty of
the offer, but she coud not be persuaded that such
forms of e presson shoud be taken, n ths coun-
try, n the same sense as the Madam I am at
your feet, wth whch every genteman addresses
a ady. fter a, the merchant, no doubt, to hs
great astonshment, receved a very cv note, ac-
ceptng the oan of hs country house. But, n an-
swer to the note, he sent an awkward e cuse, and
never shewed hs face agan. The poor man was so
far from beng to bame, that he ony foowed the
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L TT P P0M P I .
43
estabshed custom of the country, accordng to
whch t woud be rudeness not to offer any part
of your property, whch you ether menton or
show. ortunatey, pansh etquette s |ust and
equtabe on ths pont for as t woud not pardon
the omsson of the offer, so t woud never forgve
the acceptance.
foregner must be surprsed at the strange m -
ture of cauton and berty whch appears n the
manners of pan. Most rooms have gass doors
but when ths s not the case, t woud be hghy
mproper for any ady to st wth a genteman, un-
ess the doors were open. et, when a ady s sghty
ndsposed n bed, she does not scrupe to see every
one of her mae vstors. ady sedom takes a
genteman s arm, and never shakes hm by the
hand but on the return of an od acquantance
after a consderabe absence, or when they wsh
|oy for some agreeabe event, the common saute s
an embrace. n unmarred woman must not be
seen aone out of doors, nor must she st tete-a-tete
wth a genteman, even when the doors of the room
are open but, as soon as she s marred, she may
go by hersef where she peases, and st aone wth
any man for many hours every day. ou have n
ngand strange notons of pansh |eaousy. I can,
however, assure you, that f pansh husbands were,
at any tme, what noves and od pays represent
them, no race n urope has undergone a more
thorough change.
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44
L TT P P0M P I .
Dnners are generay at one, and n a few houses,
between two and three. Invtatons to dne are
e tremey rare. 0n some e traordnary occasons,
as that of a young man performng hs frst mass
a daughter takng the ve and, n the more wea-
thy houses, on the sant-days of the heads of the
famy, they make what s caed a convte, or feast.
ny person accustomed to your prvate dnners,
woud be thrown nto a fever by one of these par-
tes. The heght of u ury, on these occasons, s
what we ca Comda de onda a dnner from the
cofee-house. the dshes are dressed at an nn,
and brought ready to be served at tabe. The pa-
nsh houses, even those of the best sort, are so
provded wth every thng requred at tabe, that
wne, pates, gasses, knves and forks, are brought
from the nn together wth the dnner. The nose
and confuson of thesefeasts s nconcevabe. very
one tres to repay the hosptabe treat wth mrth
and nose and though panards are, commony,
water-drnkers, the botte s used very freey on
these occasons but they do not contnue at tabe
after eatng the dessert. Upon the death of any one
n a famy, the nearest reatves send a dnner of
ths knd, on the day of the funera, that they may
save the chef mourners the troube of preparng an
entertanment for such of ther kndred as have at-
tended the body to church. Decorum, however,
forbds any mrth on these occasons.
fter I became acquanted wth ngsh hospta-
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L TT P P0M P I .
45
ty, my mnd was struck wth a custom, whch,
beng a matter of course n pan, had never at-
tracted my notce. n nvtaton to dnner, whch,
by the by, s never gven n wrtng, must not be
accepted on the frst proposa. Perhaps our com-
pmentary anguage makes t necessary to ascer-
tan how far the nvter may be n earnest, and a
good-natured cvty has made t a rue to gve na-
tona vanty far pay, and never, wthout proper
cauton, to trust pot-uck, where fortune so sedom
smes upon that venerabe utens. The frst nv-
taton to eat the soup shoud be answered,
therefore, wth a thousand thanks by whch a
panard cvy decnes what no one wshes hm to
accept. If, after ths skrmsh of good breedng, the
offer shoud be repeated, you may begn to suspect
that your frend s n earnest, and answer hm n
the usua words, no se meta Usted en eso do not
engage n such a thng. t ths stage of the bu-
sness, both partes havng gone too far to recede,
the nvtaton s repeated and accepted.
I mght, probaby, have omtted the menton of
ths custom, had I not found, as t appears to me,
a curous concdence between pansh and ancent
Greek manners on ths pont. Perhaps you reco-
ect that enophon opens hs tte work caed
The Banquet, by statng how ocrates and hs
pups, who formed the greater part of the company
the entertanment theren descrbed were nvted
by Caas, a rch ctzen of thens. The feast waa
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40
L TT P P0M P I .
ntended to ceebrate the vctory of a young man,
who had obtaned the crown at the Panathensean
games. Caas was wakng home wth hs young
frend to the Preus, when he saw ocrates and hs
day companons. He accosted the former n a
famar and payfu manner, and, after a tte ban-
terng on hs phosophca specuatons, requested
both hm and hs frends to gve hm the peasure
of ther company at tabe. They, however, says
enophon, at frst, as was proper, thanked hm,
and decned the nvtaton but when t ceary ap-
peared that he was angry at the refusa, foow-
ed hm. I am aware that the words n enophon
admt another nterpretaton, and that the phrase
whch I render, as was proper, may be apped to
the thanks aone but t may be referred, wth as
much or better reason, both to thanks and refusa,
and the custom whch I have stated ncnes me
strongy to adopt that sense. The truth s, that
wherever dnner s not, as n ngand, the chef
and amost e cusve season of soca converse, an
nvtaton to dne must appear somewhat n the
ght of a gft or present whch every man of de-
cacy fees reuctant to accept at ar from a mere
acquantance, or wthout some degree of compu-
son, from a frend. Besdes, we know the abuse
and rdcue wth whch both Greeks and Pomans
attacked the Parastes, or dnner-hunters and t
ee note B.
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L TT P P0M P I .
47
s very natura to suppose that a true geuteman
woud be upon hs guard aganst the most dstant
resembance to those unfortunate starvengs.
The custom of seepng after dnner, caed esta,
s unversa n summer, especay n ndausa,
where the ntenseness of the heat produces anguor
and drowsness. In wnter, takng a wak, |ust
after rsng from tabe, s very prevaent. Many
gentemen, prevousy to ther afternoon wak, re-
sort to the coffee-houses, whch now begn to be n
fashon.
most every consderabe town of pan s
provded wth a pubc wak, where the better
casses assembe n the afternoon. These paces
are caed amedas, from amo, a common name
for the em and popar, the trees whch shade such
paces. Large stone benches run n the drecton
of the aeys, where peope st ether to rest them-
seves or to carry on a ong tak, n whspers, wth
the ne t ady an amusement whch, n the dom
of the country, s e pressed by the strange phrase,
pear a Pava to puck the hen-turkey. We
have n our ameda severa fountans of the most
decous water. o ess than twenty or thrty
men wth gasses, each hodng neary a quart,
move n every drecton, so de trousy cashng two
of them n ther hands, that wthout any danger of
breakng them, they keep up a pretty vey tnkng
ke that of we-tuned sma bes. o great s
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48
L TT P P0M P I .
the quantty of water whch these peope se to the
frequenters of the wak, that most of them ve
throughout the year on what they thus earn n
summer. uccess n ths trade depends on ther
prompttude to answer every ca, ther neatness n
washng the gasses, and most of a, on ther skfu
use of the good-natured waggery pecuar to the
ower casses of ndausa. knowng ar, an arch
sme, and some honed words of prase and endear-
ments, as My rose, My sou, and many others,
whch even a modest and hgh-bred ady w hear
wthout dspeasure are nfabe means of success
among tradesmen who dea wth the pubc at
arge, and especay wth the more tender part of
that pubc. The company n these waks pre-
sents a motey crowd of offcers n ther regmentas,
of cergymen n ther cassocks, back coaks, and
brood-brmmed hats, not unke those of the coa-
men n London, and of gentemen wrapped up n
ther capas,or n some unform, wthout whch a we-
born panard s amost ashamed to shew hmsef.
The ades wakng-dress s susceptbe of tte
varety. othng short of the house beng on fre
woud obge a pansh woman to step out of doors
wthout a back pettcoat, caed Basqutna, or aya,
and a broad back ve, hangng from the head over
the shouders, and crossed on the breast ke a shaw,
whch they ca Manta. The manta s, gene-
ray, of sk trmmed round wth broad ace. In
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L TT P P0M P I .
4
summer-evenngs some whte mantas are seen
but no ady woud wear them n the mornng, and
much ess venture nto a church n such a profane
dress.
showy fan s ndspensabe, n a seasons, both
n and out of doors. n ndausan woman mght
as we want her tongue as her fan. The fan, besdes,
has ths advantage over the natura organ of
speech that t conveys thought to a greater ds-
tance. dear frend at the farthest end of the
pubc wak, s greeted and cheered by a quck,
tremuous moton of the fan, accompaned wth se-
vera sgnfcant nods. n ob|ect of ndfference s
dsmssed wth a sow, forma ncnaton of the fan,
whch makes hs bood run cod. The fan, now,
screens the ttter and whsper now condenses a
sme nto the dark sparkng eyes, whch take ther
am |ust above t. gente tap of the fan com-
mands the attenton of the careess a wavng
moton cas the dstant. certan twr between
the fngers betrays doubt or an ety a quck
cosng and dspayng the fods, ndcates eagerness
or |oy. In perfect combnaton wth the e pres-
sve features of my countrywomen, the fan s a
magc wand, whose power s more easy fet than
descrbed.
What s mere beauty, compared wth the fascnat-
ng power arsng from e treme sensbty uch as
are ave to those nvsbe charms, w hardy fnd
a pan face among the young women of ndausa.

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50
L TT P P0M P I .
Ther features may not, at frst vew, pease the
eye but seem to mprove every day t they grow
beautfu. Wthout the advantages of educa-
ton, wthout even e terna accompshments, the
vvacty of ther fancy sheds a perpetua gow over
ther conversaton and the warmth of ther heart
gves the nterest of affecton to ther most ndf-
ferent actons. But ature, ke a too fond mother,
has spot them, and uperstton has competed
ther run. Whe the actvty of ther mnds s
aowed to run waste for want of care and nstructon,
the conscousness of ther powers to pease, m-
presses them wth an eary noton that fe has but
one source of happness. Were ther charms the
effect of that cod twnkng fame whch futters
round the hearts of most renchwomen, they
woud be ony dangerous to the peace and usefu-
ness of one haf of socety. But, nstead of beng
the caprcous tyrants of men, they are, generay,
ther vctms. ew, very few pansh women, and
none, I w venture to say, among the ndausans,
have t n ther power to be coquettes. If t may
be sad wthout a soecsm, there s more of that
vce n our men than n our femaes. The frst,
eadng a fe of deness, and deprved by an gnorant,
oppressve, and supersttous government, of every
ob|ect that can rase and feed an honest ambton,
waste ther whoe youth, and part of ther many
age, n trfng wth the best feengs of the tender
se , and posonng, for mere mschefs sake, the very
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L TT P P0M P I . 51
sprngs of domestc happness. But our s s the
most dre and compe dsease that ever preyed
upon the vtas of human socety. Wth some of
the nobest quates that a peope can possess (you
m e cuse an nvountary burst of natona parta-
ty), we are worse than degraded we are depraved,
by that whch s ntended to chersh and e at every
soca vrtue. 0ur corrupters, our morta enemes,
are regon and government. To set the practca
proofs of ths bod poston n a strkng ght s, un-
doubtedy, beyond my abtes. et such, I must say,
s the force of theproofs I possess on ths meanchoy
topc, that they neary overcome my mnd wth
ntutve evdence. Let me, then, take eave of the
sub|ect nto whch my feengs have hurred me,
by assurng you, that wherever the sghtest ad s
afforded to the femae mnd n ths country, t
e hbts the most astonshng quckness and capa-
cty and that, probaby, no other naton n the
word can present more ovey nstances of a gow-
ng and susceptbe heart preservng unspotted
purty, not from the dread of pubc opnon, but n
spte of ts encouragements.
e 2
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52 L TT P P0M P I .
L TT P III.
eve, 17 .
ortune has favoured me wth an acquantance
a young cergyman of ths town for whom,
snce our frst ntroducton, I have fet a growng
esteem, such as must soon rpen nto the warmest
affecton. Common danger, and common sufferng,
especay of the mnd, prove often the readest and
most ndssoube bonds of human frendshp : and
when to ths nfuence s added the bendng power
of an ntercommunty of thoughts and sentments,
no ess unbounded than the confdence wth whch
two men put thereby ther berty, ther fortune,
and ther fe nto the hands of each other ma-
gnaton can hardy measure the warmth and
devotedness of honest hearts thus unted.
panards, who have broken the trammes of
superstton, possess a wonderfu quckness to mark
and know one another. et cauton s so necessary,
that we never offer the rght hand of feowshp
G
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L TT P P0M P I .
53
t, by gradua approaches, the heart and mnd are
carefuy scanned on both sdes. There are bues
n menta no ess than n anma courage: and I have
sometmes been n danger of commttng mysef
wth a pompous foo that was hazardng propo-
stons n the evenng, whch he was sure to ay, n
hepess fear, before the confessor, the ne t morn-
ng and who, had he met wth free and unqua-
fed assent from any one of the company, woud
have tred to save hs own sou and body by carry-
ng the whoe conversaton to the Inqustors. But
the character of my new frend was vsbe at a gance
and, after some conversaton, I coud not fee the
sghtest apprehenson that there mght urk n hs
heart ether the vanry or the foy whch can
betray a man, n ths word, under a prete t of
ensurng hs happness n the ne t. He too, ether
from the crcumstance of my ong resdence n
ngand, or, as I hope, from somethng more pro-
pery beongng to mysef, soon opened hs whoe
mnd and we both uttered downrght heresy.
fter ths mutua, ths awfu pedge, the cythan
ceremony of tastng each others bood coud not
have more cosey bound us n nterest and danger.
The cooness of an orange-grove s not more
refreshng to hm who has panted across one of our
burnng pans, under the merdan sun n ugust,
than the company of a few trusty frends to some
unbendng mnds, after a ong day of restrant and ds-
smuaton. When after our evenng wak we are at
G
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54 L TT P P0M P I .
ast comfortaby seated round my frend s readng-
tabe,where an amabe young offcer, another cergy-
man, and one of the most worthy and hghy-gfted
men that tyranny and superstton have condemned
to pne n obscurty, are aways wecomed wth a
cordaty approachng to rapture I cannot hep
comparng our feengs to those whch we mght
suppose n Chrstan saves at gers, who, havng
secrety unocked the rvets of ther fetters, coud
shake them off to feast and rot n the dead of nght,
cheerng ther hearts wth wd vsons of berty,
and savng ther wounds wth vague hopes of
revenge. Pevenge, dd I say what a fase noton
woud that word gve you of the characters that
compose our tte cub I doubt f ature hersef
coud so undo the work of her hands as to trans-
form any one of my knd, my benevoent frends,
nto a man of bood. s to mysef, mere pro-
testatons were useess. ou know me and I sha
eave you to |udge. But there s a revenge of the
fancy, perfecty consstent wth true mdness and
generosty, though certany more aed to quck
sensbty than to sound and sober |udgment. The
ast, however, shoud be sedom, f at a, ooked for
among persons n our crcumstances. 0ur chdhood
s artfcay protracted t we wonder how we
have grown od : and, beng kept at an mmeasur-
abe dstance from the affars and nterest of pubc
fe, our passons, our vrtues, and our vces, ke
those of eary youth, have deeper roots n the
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L TT P P0M P I .
55
magnaton than the heart. I w not say that
ths s a prevaent feature n the character of my
countrymen but I have generay observed t
among the best and the worthest. s to my con-
fdenta frends, especay the one I mentoned at
the begnnng of ths etter, n strct conformty
wth the temper whch, I fear, I have but mper-
fecty descrbed, they spend ther ves n gvng
vent, among themseves, to the suppressed feengs
of rdcue or ndgnaton, of whch the regous
nsttutons of ths country are a perenna source
to those who are compeed to receve them as of
Dvne authorty. ngand has so far mproved
me, that I can perceve the foy of ths conduct.
I am aware that, nstead of ndugng ths chdsh
gratfcaton of our anger, we shoud be preparng
ourseves, by a profound study of our ancent aws
and customs, and a perfect acquantance wth the
pure and orgna doctrnes of the Gospe, for any
future openng to reformaton n our church and
state. But under ths ntoerabe system of nte-
ectua oppresson, we have assocated the dea of
pansh aw wth despotsm, and that of Chrstanty
wth absurdty and persecuton. fter my return
from ngand I fee amost nvountary reapsng
nto the od habts of my mnd. Wth my frends,
who have never eft ths country, any endeavour
to break and counteract such habts woud be per-
fecty hopeess. Despondency drves them nto a
course of readng and thnkng, whch eads ony to
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5
L TT P P0M P I .
suppressed contempt and whspered sarcasm. The
voence whch they must constanty do to ther
best feengs, mght breed some of the fercer
passons n breasts ess softened wth the mk of
human kndness. But ther hatred of the preva-
ng practces and opnons does not e tend to per-
sons. et I for one must confess, that were I to
act from a frst and habtua mpuse, wthout
stenng to my better |udgment, there s not a sant
or a rec n the country I woud not trampe under
foot, and treat wth the utmost ndgnty. s
thngs are, however, I content mysef wth scoffng
and rang the whoe day. But I trust that, on a
change of crcumstances, I shoud act more sobery
than I fee.
I shoud have found t very dffcut, wthout
ths fortunate ntmacy wth a man who, though
st n the prme of youth, has atey obtaned, by
terary competton, a pace among what we ca
the hgher cergy that s, such as are above the
cure of sous to gve you an nsght nto the n-
terna consttuton of the pansh church, the vces
of the system whch prepares our young men for
the atar, and the runous foundatons on whch the
eccesastca aw, aded by cv power, hazards the
moras of our regous teachers and ther focks.
When I had e pressed to my frend my desre of
havng hs assstance n carryng on ths corres-
pondence, as we as satsfed hs mnd on the m-
probabty of any thng entrusted to you, recong
G
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L TT P P0M P I .
57
upon hmsef n pan he shewed me a manuscrpt
he had drawn up some tme before, under the tte:
few facts connected wth the formaton of the
nteectua and mora character of a pansh
Cergyman. Who knows, he sad, but that
ths sketch may answer your purpose o trave-
er s-gude account of our unverstes and cerca
estabshments, can convey such a vng pcture of
our state, as the hstory of a young mnd traned
up under ther nfuence. ou mght easy fnd a
st of the professors, endowments, and cass-books
of whch the framework of pansh educaton con-
ssts. But who woud have the patence to read
t, or what coud he earn from t I had ntended
that ths tte effuson of an oppressed and
struggng mnd shoud e conceaed t some
future perod, probaby after my death, when my
country mght be prepared to earn and ament the
wrongs she has, for ages, heaped on her chdren.
But, snce you have provded aganst dscovery,
and are wng to transate nto . ngsh any thng
I may gve you, t w be some satsfacton to know
that the resuts of my sad e perence are ad before
the most enghtened and benevoent peope of
urope. Perhaps, f they know the true source of
our evs, the day w come when they may be
abe and wng to hep us.
The queston wth me now was, not whether I
shoud accept the manuscrpt, but whether I coud
do t |ustce n the transaton. Trustng, however
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58
L TT P P0M P I .
that the novety of the matter woud atone for the
fauts of my stye abour and perseverance have,
at ength, enabed me to encose t n ths etter.
s I have thus ntroduced a stranger to you. I am
bound n common cvty to fa nto the back-
ground, and et hm speak for hmsef.
few acts connected wth the formaton of the In-
teectua and Mora Character of a pansh Cer-
gyman.
I do not possess the cynca habts of mnd
whch woud enabe me, ke Pousseau, to e pose
my heart naked to the gaze of the word. I have
nether hs unfortunate and odous propenstes to
goss by an affected candour, nor hs bewtchng
eoquence to dspay, whatever good quates I may
possess : and as I must overcome no sma reuct-
ance and fear of mproprety, to enter upon the task
of wrtng an account of the workngs of my mnd
and heart, I have some reason to beeve that I am
ed to do so by a sncere desre of beng usefu to
others. Mons of human creatures are made to
venture ther happness on a form of Chrstanty
whch possesses the strongest cams to our attenton,
both from ts great antquty, and the e tent of ts
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L TT P P0M P I . 5
way over the most cvzed part of the earth. The
varous effects of that regous system, unm ed
wth any thng unauthorzed or spurous, upon my
country, my frends, and mysef, have been the
ob|ect of my most serous attenton, from the very
dawn of reason t the moment when I am wrtng
these nes. If the resut of my e perence shoud be,
that regon, as t s taught and enforced n pan,
s productve of e quste msery n the amabe and
good, and of gross depravty n the unfeeng and
the thoughtess that t s an nsuperabe obstace
to the mprovement of the mnd, and gves a de-
cded ascendancy to ettered absurdty, and to du-
headed bgotry that t necessary breeds such re-
serve and dssmuaton n the most promsng and
vauabe part of the peope as must check and
stunt the nobest of pubc vrtues, candour and
potca courage f a ths, and much more that
I am not abe to e press n the abstract form of
smpe postons, shoud start nto vew from the
pan narratve of an obscure ndvdua I hope I
sha not be charged wth the sy vanty of attr-
butng any ntrnsc mportance to the domestc
events and prvate feengs whch are to f up the
foowng pages.
I was born of parents who, though possessed 1
of tte property, hed a decent rank among the
gentry of my natve town. Ther characters, how-
ever, are so ntmatey connected wth the forma-
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L TT P P0M P I .
ton of my own, that I sha nduge an honest prde
n descrbng them.
My father was the son of a rch Irsh merchant,
who obtaned for hmsef and descendants a patent
of Hdagua, or nobesse, eary n the regn of er-
dnand I. Durng the fe of my grandfather, and
the consequent prosperty of hs house, my father
was sent abroad for hs educaton. Ths gave a po-
sh to hs manners, whch, at that perod, was not
easy found even n the frst ranks of the nobty.
Ltte more than accompshments, however, was
eft hm, when, n consequence of hs father s death,
the commerca concerns of the house beng: ma-
naged by a stranger, receved a shock whch had
neary reduced the famy to poverty and want.
et somethng was saved and my father, who, by
some unaccountabe nfatuaton, had not been
brought up to busness, was now obged to e ert
hmsef to the utmost of hs power. |onng, there-
fore, n partnershp wth a more weathy merchant,
who had marred one of hs ssters, he contrved, by
care and dgence, together wth a strct, though
not sordd economy, not to descend beow the rank
n whch he had been born. Under these unpro-
msng crcumstances he marred my mother, who,
f she coud add but tte to her husband s fortune,
yet brought hm a treasure of ove and vrtue, whch
he found constanty ncreasng, t death removed
hm on the frst approaches of od age.
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L TT P P0M P I . 1
My mother was of honourabe parentage. he
was brought up n that absence of menta cutva-
ton whch prevas, to ths day, among the pa-
nsh ades. But her natura taents were of a su-
peror cast. he was vey, pretty, and sang sweety.
Under the nfuence of a happer country, her peas-
ng vvacty, the quckness of her apprehenson, and
the e quste degree of sensbty whch anmated
her words and actons, woud have quafed her to
shne n the most eegant and re ned crces.
Benevoence prompted a my fatWs actons, en-
dued hm, at tmes, wth somethng kt supernatu-
ra vgour, and gave hm, for the good of h-u feow-
creatures, the courage and decson he wanted n
whatever concerned hmsef. Wth hardy any
thng to spare, I do not recoect a tme when our
house was not a source of reef and consoaton to
some fames of such as, by a characterstc and
feeng appeaton, are caed among us the Mush-
ng poor. In a seasons, for thrty years of hs
fe, my father aowed hmsef no other rea aton,
after the fatgung busness of hs countng-house,
than a vst to the genera hospta of ths town
a horrbe scene of msery, where four or fve hun-
dred beggars are, at a tme, aowed to ay them-
seves down and de, when worn out by want and
dsease. trppng hmsef of hs coat, and havng
put on a coarse dress for the sake of ceanness, n
Pobres vergonzantes.
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L TT P P0M P I .
whch he was scrupuous to a faut he was em-
poyed, t ate at nght, n makng the beds of the
poor, takng the hepess n hs arms, and stoopng
to such servces as even the menas n attendance
were often oth to perform. ths he dd of hs
own free w, wthout the east conne on, pubc
or prvate, wth the estabshment. Twce he was
at death s door from the contagous nfuence of the
atmosphere n whch he e erted hs charty. But
no danger woud appa hm when engaged n ad-
mnsterng reef to the needy. oregners, cast by
msfortune nto that guf of wretchedness, were the
pecuar ob|ects of hs kndness.
The prncpe of benevoence was not ess pow-
erfu n my mother but her e treme sensbty
made her nfntey more susceptbe of pan than
peasure of fear than hope and, for such charac-
ters, a technca regon s ever a source of ds-
tractng terrors. nthusasm that bastard of re-
gous berty, that vgorous weed of Protestantsm
does not thrve under the |eaous eye of nfabe
authorty. Cathocsm, t s true, has, n a few
nstances, produced a sort of spendd madness
but ts vsons and trances partake argey of the
tameness of a mnd prevousy e hausted by fears
and agones, meeky borne under the authorty of a
prest. The throes of the ew Brth harrow up the
mnd of the Methodst, and gve t that frenzed
energy of despar, whch often settes nto the a-
hopng, a-darng raptures of the enthusast. The
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L TT P P0M P I .
3
Cathoc ant suffers n a the passveness of bnd
submsson, t nature snks e hausted, and reason
gves way to a gente, vsonary madness. The na-
tura powers of my mother s nteect were strong
enough to wthstand, unmpared, the enormous
and constant pressure of regous fears n ther most
hdeous shape. But, dd I not deem reason the
ony gft of Heaven whch fuy compensates the
evs of ths present e stence, I mght have wshed
for ts utter e tncton n the frst and dearest ob-
|ect of my natura affecton. Had she become a
vsonary, she had ceased to be unhappy. But she
possessed to the ast an nteectua energy equa to
any e erton, e cept one, whch was not compat-
be wth the nfuence of her country that of ook-
ng body nto the dark recess where urked the
phantoms that harassed and dstressed her mnd.
It woud be dffcut, ndeed, to choose two
farer sub|ects for observng the effects of the re-
gon of pan. The resuts, n both, were ament-
abe, though certany not the most mschevous t
s apt to produce. In one, we see menta soberness
and good sense degraded nto tmdty and ndec-
son unbounded goodness of heart, confned to
the owest range of benevoence. In the other, we
mark taents of a superor knd, turned nto the
ngenous tormentors of a heart, whose man source
of wretchedness was an e quste sensbty to the
beauty of vrtue, and an nsatate ardour n treadng
the devous and thorny path t was made to take
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4
L TT P P0M P I .
for the way whch eadeth unto fe. boder
reason, n the frst, (t w be sad) and a reason
ess futtered by sensbty, n the second, woud
have made those vrtuous mnds more cautous of
yedng themseves up to the fu nfuence of ascetc
devoton. Is ths, then, a that men are to e pect
from the unbounded promses of ght, and the ofty
cams of authorty, whch our regon hods forth
Is t thus, that, when, to obtan the protecton of
an nfabe gude, we have, at hs command, mam-
ed and fast bound our reason, st a precpce yawns
before our feet, from whch none but that nsuted
reason can save us re we to ca for her ad on
the brnk of despar and nsanty, and then spurn
our fathfu, though n|ured frend, est she shoud
unock our hand from that of our proud and treach-
erous eader 0ften have I, from educaton, habt,
and a msguded ove of mora e ceence, been
guty of that nconsstency, t frequent dsap-
pontment urged me to break my chans. Panfu,
ndeed, and ferce was the strugge by whch I
ganed my berty, and doomed I am for ever to
bear the marks of eary bondage. But no power on
earth sha make me agan gve up the gudance
of my reason, t I can fnd a rue of conduct and
beef that may safey be trusted, wthout wantng
reason tsef to moderate and e pound t.
The frst and most an ous care of my parents
was to sow abundanty the seeds of Chrstan vrtue
n my nfant breast. In ths, as n a ther proceed-
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L TT P P0M P I .
5
ngs, they strcty foowed the steps of those whose
vrtue had receved the sancton of ther church.
Pegous nstructon was conveyed to my mnd
wth the rudments of speech and f eary mpres-
sons aone coud be trusted for the future com-
pe on of a chd s character, the musc, and the
spendd pageantry of the cathedra of eve, whch
was to me the frst scene of menta en|oyment,
mght, at ths day, be the soundest foundaton of
my Cathoc fath.
Dvnes have decared that mora responsbty
begns at the age of seven, and, consequenty, ch-
dren of quck parts are not aowed to go much
onger wthout the advantage of confesson. My
mnd had scarcey attaned the frst cmacterc,
when I had the fu beneft of absouton for such
sns as my good mother, who acted as the accusng
conscence, coud dscover n my naughtness. The
church, we know, cannot be wrong but to say the
honest truth, a her pous contrvances have, by a
sad fataty, produced n me |ust the reverse of ther
am. Though the cergyman who was to shrve
ths young snner had md, gente, and affectonate
manners, there s somethng n aurcuar confesson
whch has revoted my feengs from the day when
I frst knet before a prest, n chdsh smpcty,
to the ast tme I have been forced to repeat that
ceremony, as a protecton to my fe and berty,
wth scorn and contempt n my heart.
urcuar confesson, as a sub|ect of theoog-

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L TT P P0M P I .
ca controversy, s, probaby, beneath the notce
of many but I coud not easy aow the name of
phosopher to any one who shoud ook upon an
nqury nto the mora nfuence of that regous
practce, as perfecty vod of nterest. It has been ob-
served, wth great truth, that the most phanthropc
man woud fee more uneasness n the e pectaton
of havng hs tte fnger cut off, than n the assur-
ance that the whoe empre of Chna was to be swa-
owed up the ne t day by an earthquake. If ever, there-
fore, these nes shoud meet the eye of the pubc
n some dstant country (for ages must pass before
they can see the ght n pan), I entreat my read-
ers to beware of ndfference about evs from whch
t s ther happness to be free, and to make a due
aowance for the feengs whch ead me nto a
short dgresson. They certany cannot e pect to
be acquanted wth pan wthout a suffcent know-
edge of the powerfu mora engnes whch are at
work n that country and they w, perhaps, fnd
that a pansh prest may have somethng to say
whch s new to them on the sub|ect of confesson.
The effects of confesson upon young mnds
are, generay, unfavourabe to ther future peace
and vrtue. It was to that practce I owed the frst
taste of remorse, whe yet my sou was n a state
of nfant purty. My fancy had been strongy m-
pressed wth the awfu condtons of the pententa
aw, and the word sacrege had made me shudder
on beng tod that the act of conceang any thought
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L TT P P0M P I .
7
or acton, the rghtfuness of whch I suspected,
woud make me guty of that worst of crmes, and
greaty ncrease my danger of everastng torments.
My parents had, n ths case, done no more than
ther duty, accordng to the rues of ther church.
But, though they had succeeded n rousng my
fear of he, ths was, on the other hand, too feebe
to overcome a chdsh bashfuness, whch made
the dscosure of a harmess trfe, an effort above
my strength.
The apponted day came at ast, when I was
to wat on the confessor. ow waverng, now de-
termned not to be guty of sacrege, I knet be-
fore the prest, eavng, however, n my st of sns,
the ast pace to the hdeous offence I beeve t
was a petty arceny commtted on a young brd.
But, when I came to the dreaded pont, shame and
confuson fe upon me, and the accusaton stuck n
my throat. The magnary gut of ths sence
haunted my mnd for four years, gatherng horrors
at every successve confesson, and rsng nto an
appang spectre, when, at the age of tweve, I was
taken to receve the sacrament. In ths mserabe
state I contnued t, wth the advance of reason, I
pucked, at fourteen, courage enough to unburthen
my conscence by a genera confesson of the past.
nd et t not be supposed that mne s a snguar
case, arsng ether from morbd feeng or the na-
ture of my eary educaton. ew, ndeed, among
the many pentents I have e amned, have escaped
2
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08
L TT P P0M P I .
the evs of a smar state for, what a sy bash-
funess does n chdren, s often, n after-fe, the
mmedate effect of that shame by whch faen
fraty cngs st to wounded vrtue. The necessty
of confesson, seen at a dstance, s ghter than a
feather n the baance of desre whe, at a subse-
quent perod, t becomes a punshment on decacy
an nstrument to bunt the mora sense, by mu-
tpyng the sub|ects of remorse, and drectng ts
greatest terrors aganst magnary crmes.
These evs affect, neary equay, the two
se es but there are some that fa pecuary to
the ot of the softer. et the remotest of a at
east, as ong as the Inquston sha e st s the
danger of drect seducton by the prest. The for-
mdabe powers of that odous trbuna have been
so skfuy arrayed aganst the abuse of sacramen-
ta trust, that few are found base and bnd enough
to make the confessona a drect- nstrument .of de-
bauch. The strctest decacy, however, s, I be-
eve, nadequate fuy to oppose the demorazng
tendency of aurcuar confesson. Wthout the
sghtest responsbty, and, not unfrequenty, n
the conscentous dscharge of what he beeves hs
duty, the confessor conveys to the femae mnd the
frst fou breath whch dms ts vrgn purty. He,
undoubtedy, has a rght to nterrogate upon sub-
|ects whch are |usty deemed awkward even for
materna confdence and t woud requre more
than common smpcty to suppose that a dscre-
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L TT P P0M P I .
tonary power of ths nature, eft n the hands of
thousands men beset wth more than common
temptatons to abuse t w generay be e ercsed
wth proper cauton. But I w no onger dwe
upon ths sub|ect for the present. Men of unpre-
|udced mnds w easy con|ecture what I eave
unsad whe to shew a hope of convncng such
as have made a fu and rrevocabe surrender of
ther |udgment, were ony to be my own.
rom the pecuar crcumstances of my coun-
try, the tranng of my menta facutes was an ob-
|ect of tte nterest wth my parents. There coud
be scarcey any doubt n the choce of a ne of fe
for me, who was the edest of four chdren. My
father s fortune was mprovng and I mght hep
and succeed hm wth advantage to mysef and two
ssters. It was, therefore, n my father s countng-
house, that, under the care of an od trusty cerk,
I earned wrtng and arthmetc. To be a perfect
stranger to terature s not, even now, a dsgrace
among the better cass of panards. But my mo-
ther, whose prde, though greaty subdued, was
never conquered by devoton, fet an ous that,
snce, from prudenta motves, I was doomed to be
bured for fe n a countng-house, a tte know-
edge of Latn shoud dstngush me from a mere
mercante drudge. prvate teacher was accord-
ngy procured, who read wth me n the evenng,
after I had spent the best part of the day n makng
copes of the e tensve correspondence of the house
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70
L TT P P0M P I .
I was now about ten years od, and though,
from a chd, e cessvey fond of readng, my ac-
quantance wth books dd not e tend beyond a
hstory of the 0d Testament a coecton of the
Lves of the ants mentoned n the Cathoc -
manack, out of whch I chose the Martyrs, for
modern sants were never to my taste a tte work
that gave an amusng mrace of the rgn for
every day of the year and przed above a, a pa-
nsh transaton of eneon s Teemachus, whch I
perused t I had neary earned t by heart. I heard,
therefore, wth uncommon peasure, that, n acqur-
ng a knowedge of Latn, I shoud have to read
stores not unke that of my favourte the Prnce of
Ithaca. Ltte tme, -however, was aowed me for
study, est, from my ove of earnng, I shoud
conceve a dske to mercante pursuts. But my
mnd had taken a decded bent. I hated the count-
ng-house, and oved my books. Learnng and the
church were, to me, nseparabe deas and I soon
decared to my mother that I woud be nothng but
a cergyman.
Ths decaraton roused the strongest pre-
|udces of her mnd and heart, whch cod prudence
had ony damped nto acquescence. To have a
son who sha day hod n hs hands the rea body
of Chrst, s an honour, a happness whch rases
the humbest pansh woman nto a sef-compacent
ee ote C.
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L TT P P0M P I .
71
consequence that attends her through fe. What,
then, must be the feengs of one who, to the
strongest sense of devoton, |ons the hope of seeng
the dgntes and emouments of a rch and proud
Church bestowed upon a darng chd The
Church, besdes, by the aw of cebacy, averts that
mghty terror of a fond mother a wfe, who,
sooner or ater, s to draw away her chd from
home. boy, therefore, who at the age of ten or
tweve, dazzed etherby the gaudy dress of an offc-
atng prest by the mportance he sees others
acqure, when the bshop confers upon them the
cerca tonsure or by any other deuson of chd-
hood, decares hs ntenton of takng orders,
sedom, very sedom escapes the heavy chan whch
the Church artfuy hdes under the tnse of
honours, and the ess fmsy, though aso ess
attanabe spendour of her god. uch a boy,
among the poor, s nfaby punged nto a convent
f he beongs to the gentry, he s destned to swe
the ranks of the secuar cergy.
It s true that, n a ages and countres, the
eadng events of human fe are nseparaby
nked wth some of the sghtest ncdents of chd-
hood. But ths fact, nstead of an apoogy, affords
the heavest charge aganst the crafty and barbarous
system of ayng snares, wheren unsuspectng n-
nocence may, at the very entrance of fe, ose
every chance of future peace, happness and vrtue.
To aow a gr of s teen to bnd hersef, for ever,
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72
L TT P P0M P I .
wth vows not ony under the awfu, though
dstant guardanshp of heaven, but the odous and
mmedate superntendence of man ranks, n-
deed, wth the most hdeous abuses of superstton.
The aw of cebacy, t s true, does not bnd the
secuar cergy t the age of twenty-one but ths
s nether more nor ess than a mockery of common
sense, n the eyes of those who practcay know
how frvoous s that attude. man has sedom
the means to embrace, or the apttude to e ercse
a professon for whch he has not been traned from
eary youth. It s absurd and crue to pretend that
a young man, whose best ten or tweve years have
been spent n preparaton for orders, s at fu
berty to turn hs back upon the Church when he
has arrved at one-and-twenty. He may, ndeed,
preserve hs berty but to do so he must forget
that most of hs patrmony has been ad out on hs
educaton, that he s too od for a cadetshp n the
army, too poor for commerce, and too proud for a
petty trade. He must behod, unmoved, the tears
of hs parents and, castng about for subsstence,
n a country where ndustry affords no resource,
ove, the man cause of these strugges, must
content tsef wth bare possbe awfuness, and
bd adeu to the hope of possesson. Wherever
The secuar cergy are not bound by vows. Cebacy s
enforced upon them by a aw whch makes ther marrage ega,
and punshabe by the ccesastca Courts.
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L TT P P0M P I .
73
unnatura prvatons make not a part of the cerca
duty, many may fnd themseves n the Church
who mght be better esewhese. But no great
effort s wanted to make them happy n themseves,
and usefu to the communty. ot so under the
unfeeng tyranny of our eccesastca aw. or,
where sha we fnd that vrtue whch, havng
ature hersef for ts enemy, and msery for ts meed,
w be abe to e tend ts care to the wefare of
others s to mysef, the tenour and coour of
my fe were f ed the moment I e pressed my
chdsh wsh of beng a cergyman. The ove of /
knowedge, however, whch betrayed me nto the v
path of wretchedness, has never forsaken ts vctm.
It s probabe that I coud not have found happ-
ness n uneducated gnorance. canty and truy
hard-earned as t s the store on whch my mnd
feeds tsef, I woud not part wth t for a whoe fe |
of unthnkng peasure : and snce the necessty of
crcumstances eft rae no path to menta en|oy-
ment, e cept that I have so panfuy trodden, I
ha the moment when I entered t, and ony bewa
the fataty whch f ed my brth n a Cathoc
country.
The order of events woud here requre an ac-
count of the system of pansh educaton, and ts
frst effects upon my mnd but, snce I speak of
mysef ony to shew the state of my country, I
sha proceed wth the mora nfuence, that, wthout
nterrupton, I may present the facts reatng
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74
L TT P P0M P I -.
severay to the heart and nteect, n as arge
masses as the sub|ect permts.
The |esuts, t the aboton of that order, had
an amost unrvaed nfuence over the better
casses of panards. They had neary monopozed
the nstructon of the pansh youth, at whch
they toed wthout pecunary reward and were
equay zeaous n promotng devotona feengs
both among ther pups and the peope at arge. It
s we known that the most accurate dvson of
abour was observed n the aotment of ther var-
ous empoyments. Ther canddates, who, by a
refnement of eccesastca pocy, after an unusu-
ay ong probaton, were bound by vows, whch,
deprvng them of berty, yet eft a dscretonary
power of e|ecton n the order were ncessanty
watched by the penetratng eye of the master of
novces : a mnute descrpton of ther character
and pecuar turn was forwarded to the superors,
and at the end of the novcate, they were empoyed
to the advantage of the communty, wthout ever
thwartng the natura bent of the ndvdua, or
dvertng hs natura powers by a mutpcty of
empoyments. Wherever, as n rance and Itay,
terature was n hgh estmaton, the |esuts spared
no troube to rase among themseves men of
emnence n that department. In pan, ther
chef am was to provde ther houses wth popuar
preachers, and zeaous, yet prudent and gente,
confessors. Pasca, and the |ansenst party, of
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L TT P P0M P I . 75
whch he was the organ, accused them of syste-
matc a ty n ther mora doctrnes: but the
charge, I beeve, though pausbe n theory, was
perfecty groundess n practce. If, ndeed, ascetc
vrtue coud ever be dvested of ts connatura ev
tendency f a system of rrfora perfecton that has
for ts bass, however dsavowed and dsgused, the
Manch|ean doctrne of the two prncpes, coud
be apped wth any parta advantage as a rue of
conduct, t was so n the hands of the |esuts. The
strct, unbendng ma ms of the |ansensts, by
urgng persons of a characters and tempers to an
magnary goa of perfecton, brng qucky ther
whoe system to the decson of e perence.
They are ke those enthusasts who, venturng
upon the practce of some Gospe sayngs, n the
tera sense, have made the absurdty of that n-
terpretaton as cear as noon-day ght. greater
knowedge of manknd made the |esuts more
cautous n the cuture of devotona feengs. They
we knew that but few can prudenty engage n
open hostty wth what n ascetc anguage s
caed the word. They now and then traned up a
sturdy champon, who, ke ther founder Loyoa,
mght provoke the enemy to snge combat wth
honour to hs eaders but the crowd of mystc
combatants were made to stand upon a knd of
|eaous truce, whch, n spte of a care, often pro-
duced some |ova meetngs of the advanced partes
on both sdes. The good fathers came forward,
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7
L TT P P0M P I .
rebuked ther soders back nto the camp, and
fed up the pace of deserters by ther ndefa-
tgabe ndustry n engagng recruts.
The nfuence of the |esuts on the pansh
moras, from every thng I have earned, was un-
doubtedy favourabe. Ther kndness attracted
the youth from the schoos to ther company: and,
though ths ntmacy was often empoyed n makng
proseytes to the order, t aso contrbuted to the
preservaton of vrtue n that sppery age, both by
the tes of affecton, and the gente check of e -
ampe. Ther churches were crowded every un-
day wth reguar attendants, who came to confess
and receve the sacrament. The practce of choos-
ng a certan prest, not ony to be the occasona
confessor, but drector of the conscence, was greaty
encouraged by the |esuts. The utmate effects
of ths surrender of the |udgment are, ndeed,
dangerous and degradng but, n a country where
the darkest superstton s constanty mpeng the
mnd nto the opposte e tremes of regous mean-
choy and profgacy, weak persons are sometmes
preserved from ether by the frendy assstance of
a prudent drector and the |esuts were generay
we quafed for that 0ffce. Ther conduct was
correct, and ther manners refned. They kept up a
dgnfed ntercourse wth the mddng and hgher
casses, and were aways ready to hep and nstruct
the poor, wthout descendng to ther eve. nce
the e puson of the |esuts, the better casses, for
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L TT P P0M P I .
77
the most part, avod the company of monks and
frars, e cept n an offca capacty whe the
ower ranks, from whch these professona sants are
generay taken, and where they re-appear, rased,
ndeed, nto comparatve mportance, but grown
boder n grossness and vce, suffer more from ther
nfuence than they woud by beng eft wthout
any regous mnsters.
nce the aboton of the |esuts, ther devo-
tona system has been kept up, though upon a
much narrower scae, by the congregatons of ant
Php er (P0ratore, n rance), an Itaan of
the s teenth century, who estabshed vountary
assocatons of secuar cergymen, vng together
under an easy rue, but wthout monastc vows, n
order to devote themseves to the support of pety.
The number, however, of these assocated prests s
so sma, that, notwthstandng ther zea and ther
studed mtaton of the |esuts, they are but a fant
shadow of that surprsng nsttuton. et these
prests aone have nherted the sk of Loyoa s
foowers n the management of the ascetc con-
trvance, whch, nvented by that ardent fanatc, s
st caed, from hs Chrstan name, ercses of
ant Ignatus. s t woud be mpossbe to sketch
the hstory of my mnd and heart wthout notcng
the nfuence of that powerfu engne, I cannot omt
a descrpton of the estabshment kept by the Ph-
ee note D.
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78
L TT P P0M P I .
ppans at eve the most compete of ts knd
that probaby has ever e sted.
The ercses of ant Ignatus are a seres of
medtatons on varous regous sub|ects, so artfc-
ay dsposed, that the mnd beng at frst thrown
nto dstressng horror, may be graduay rased to
hope, and fnay soothed, not nto a certanty of
Dvne favour, but a tmd conscousness of pardon.
Ten consecutve days are passed n perfect abstrac-
ton from a wordy pursuts. The persons who
submt to ths sprtua dscpne, eave ther homes
for rooms aotted to them n the regous house
where the ercses are to be performed, and yed
themseves up to the drecton of the presdent.
The prest, who for neary thrty years has been
actng n that capacty at eve, en|oys such n-
fuence over the weathy part of the town, that, not
satsfed wth the temporary accommodaton whch
hs convent afforded to the pous guests, he can
now odge the erctants n a separate budng,
wth a chape anne ed, and every requste for com-
pete abstracton, durng the days of ther retre-
ment. or eght tmes n the year the ercses
are performed by dfferent sets of ffty persons
each. The utmost precson and reguarty are
observed n the dstrbuton of ther tme. Poused
by a arge be at fve n the mornng, they mme-
datey assembe n the chape to begn the medta-
ton apponted for the day. t ther meas they
observe a deep sence and no ntercourse, even
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L TT P P0M P I .
7
among each other, s permtted, e cept durng one
hour n the evenng. The setted goom of the
house, the amost ncessant readng and medtaton
upon sub|ects whch, from ther vagueness and
nfntude, harass and bewder the fancy, and that
powerfu sympathetc nfuence, whch affects
assembes where a are ntent on the same ob|ect
and bent on smar feengs, render ths house a
modern cave of Trophonus, wthn whose dark
ces cheerfuness s often e tngushed for ever.
Unskfu, ndeed, must be the hand that, pos-
sessed of ths engne, can fa to subdue the stoutest
mnd n whch there urks a partce of supersttous
fear. But ather ega s one of those men who
are born to command a arge porton of ther fe-
ow creatures, ether by the usua means, or some
contrvance of ther own. The e puson of the
|esuts durng hs probatonshp n that order, de-
ned hm the ampe fed on whch hs eary vews
had been f ed. fter a course of theoogca stu-
des at the Unversty, he became a member of the
0ratoro, and soon attracted the notce of the whoe
town by hs preachng. Hs actve and bod mnd
combnes quates sedom found n the same nd-
vdua. Cear-headed, resoute, and ambtous, the
supersttous feengs whch met hm nto tears
whenever he performs the Mass, have not n the
east mpared the menta darngness he orgnay
owes to nature. Though sedom m ng n socety,
he s a perfect man of the word. ar from compro-
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80
L TT P P0M P I .
rasng hs ofty cams to respect, he fatters the
proudest nobes of hs sprtua tran by we-tmed
bursts of affected rudeness, whch, beng a mere
dspay of sprtua authorty, perfecty consstent
wth a fu acknowedgment of ther wordy rank
and dgnty, gve them, n the eyes of the more
humbe bystanders, the addtona mert of Chrs-
tan condescenson. s an nstance of ths, I reco-
ect hs orderng the Marqus de -Pedroso, one of
the haughtest men n ths town, to fetch up-stars
from the chape, a heavy god frame set wth |ew-
es, n whch the Host s e hbted, for the nspec-
ton of the company durng the hour of recreaton
aowed n the ercses. o man ever shewed
such assurance and conscousness of Heaven s dee-
gated authorty as ather ega, n the Confessona.
He reads the heart of hs pentent mpresses the
mnd wth the useessness of dsguse, and reeves
shame by a strong feeng that he has antcpated
dscosure. In preachng, hs vehemence rvets the
mnd of the hearers a wd u urance of stye en-
gages them wth perpetua varety e pectaton s
kept ave by the remembered fashes of hs wt
whe the homey, and even coarse, e pressons he
aows hmsef, when he fees the whoe audence
aready n hs power, gve hm that ar of supero-
rty whch seems to set no bounds to the freedom
of manner.
It s however, n hs prvate chape that ather
ega has prepared the grand scene of hs trumphs
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L TT P P0M P I .
81
over the hearts of hs audence. Twce every day,
durng the ercses, he knees for the space of
one hour, surrounded by hs congregaton. Day-
ght s e cuded, and a cande s so dsposed n a
shade that, wthout breakng the goom of the
chape, t shnes on a fu-ength scupture of
Chrst naed to the Cross, who, wth a counte-
nance where e quste sufferng s bended wth the
most ovey patence, seems to be on the pont of
movng hs ps to say ather, forgve them
The mnd s at frst aowed to dwe, n the deepest
sence, on the mages and sentments wth whch
prevous readng has furnshed t, t the Drector,
warmed wth medtaton, breaks forth n an m-
pressve voce, not, however, addressng hmsef
to hs hearers, from whom he appears competey
abstracted, but pourng out hs heart n the pre-
sence of the Dety. ence ensues after a few sen-
tences, and not many mnutes eapse wthout a
fresh e|acuaton. But the fre graduay kndes
nto a fame. The addresses grow onger and more
mpassoned hs voce, choked wth sobs and
tears, strugges panfuy for utterance, t the stout-
est hearts are forced to yed to the mpresson, and
the chape resounds wth sghs and groans.
I cannot but shudder at the recoecton that
my mnd was made to undergo such an ordea at
the age of ffteen for t s a custom of the docese
of eve to prepare the canddates for orders by

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82
L TT P P0M P I .
the ercses of ant Ignatus and even those
who are to be ncorporated wth the cergy by the
ceremony of the rst Tonsure, are not easy spared
ths tra. I was grown up a tmd, doce, yet ar-
dent boy. My sou, as I have aready mentoned,
had been eary made to taste the btterness of re-
morse, and I now eagery embraced the offer of
those e patory rtes whch, as I fondy thought,
were to restore ost nnocence, and keep me for
ever n the straght path of vrtue. The shock,
however, whch my sprts fet, mght have unnerved
me for fe, and reduced my facutes to a state tte
short of mbecty, had I not receved from nature,
probaby as a compensaton for a too soft and yed-
ng heart, an understandng whch was born a rebe.
et, I cannot te whether t was my heart or my
head, that, n spte of a frghted fancy, endued me
wth resouton to baffe the bnd zea of my con-
fessor, when, fndng, durng these ercses, that
I knew the e stence of a prohbted book n the
possesson of a student of dvnty, who, out of mere
good nature, asssted my eary studes he com-
manded me to accuse my frend before the Inqus-
ton. 0ften have I been betrayed nto a wrong
course of thnkng, by a desre to assmate mysef
to those I oved, and thus en|oy that nterchange
of sentment whch forms the u ury of frendshp.
But even the chans of ove, the strongest I know
wthn the range of nature, coud never hod me,
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B TT P P0M P I .
83
the moment I conceved that error had bound
them. Ths, however, brngs me to the hstory of
my mnd.
n nnate ove of truth, whch shewed tsef on
the frst deveopement of my reason, and a conse-
quent perseverance n the pursut of t to the e tent
of my knowedge, that has attended me through
fe, saved me from snkng nto the dregs of rs-
totec phosophy, whch, though dscountenanced
by the pansh government, are st coected n a
few fthy poos, fed by the constant e ertons of
the Domncans. Unfortunatey for me, these
monks have a rchy endowed coege at eve,
where they gve ectures on rstote and Thomas
qunas, to a few young men whom they recrut
at the e pense of fatterng ther parents. My
father s confessor was a Domncan, and he marked
me for a dvne of hs own schoo. My mother,
whose heart was wth the |esuts, woud fan have
sent me to the Unversty, where the ast remnant
of ther pups st hed the prncpa chars. But
she was nformed by the wy monk, that eresy
had began to creep among the new professors of
phosophy heresy of such a horrbe tendency,
that t neary amounted to poythesm. The ev-
dence on whch ths charge was grounded, seemed,
ndeed, rresstbe for you had ony to open the
second voume of one ter, a eapotan frar,
whose ements of phosophy are st used as a
cass-book at the Unversty of eve, and you
g 2
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84
L TT P P0M P I .
woud fnd, n the frst pages, that he makes space
uncreated, nfnte, and mpershabe. rom such
premses the consequence was evdent the new
phosophers were ceary settng up a rva dety.
Wth the usua preparaton of a tte Latn,
but n absoute want of a eementary nstructon,
I was sent to begn a course of ogc at the Dom-
ncan coege. My desre of earnng was great n-
deed but the Caegorte ad mentem Dv Tomtc
qunats, n a arge quarto voume, were unsa-
voury food for my mnd, and, after a few van ef-
forts to conquer my averson, I ended n never
openng the dsma book. et, untraned as I was
to readng, books were necessary to my happness.
In any other country I shoud have met wth a va-
rety of works, whch, furnshng my mnd wth
facts and observatons, mght have ed me nto
some usefu or agreeabe pursut. But n pan,
the chances of ghtng on a good book are so few,
that I must reckon my acquantance wth one that
coud open my mnd, among the fortunate events
of my fe. near reaton of mne, a ady, whose
educaton had been superor to that commony
bestowed on pansh femaes, possessed a sma
coecton of pansh and rench books. mong
these were the works of Don ray Bento ey|oo, a
Benedctne monk, who, rsng above the nteectua
eve of hs country, about the begnnng of the pre-
sent (18th) century, had the bodness to attack every
estabshed error whch was not under the mme-
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L TT P P0M P I . 85
date patronage of regon. Hs mnd was endowed
wth e traordnary cearness and acuteness and
havng, by an e tensve readng of Latn and
rench works, acqured a great mass of nformaton
on physca and hstorca sub|ects, he dspayed t,
wth pecuar fecty of e presson, n a ong seres
of dscourses and etters, formng a work of fourteen
arge cosey prnted voumes.
It was not wthout dffcuty that I obtaned
eave to try whether my mnd, whch had htherto
an a perfect waste, was strong enough to under-
stand and resh ey|oo. But the contents of hs
pages came ke the sprng showers upon a thrsty
so. man s opnon of the frst work he read
when a boy, cannot safey be trusted but, to |udge
from the avdty wth whch at the age of ffteen I
devoured fourteen voumes on msceaneous sub-
|ects, and the surprsng mpuse they gave to my
yet unfoded facutes, ey|oo must be a wrter who
deserves more notce than he has ever obtaned
from hs countrymen. If I can trust my recoec-
ton, he had deepy mbbed the sprt of Lord
Bacon s works, together wth hs utter contempt of
the absurd phosophy whch has been unversay
taught n pan, t the ast thrd of the eghteenth
century. rom Baye, ey|oo had earned cauton
n weghng hstorca evdence, and an habtua
ey|oo ded n 17 5. evera of hs ssays were pubshed
n ngsh by |ohn Brett, sq. 1780.
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8
L TT P P0M P I .
suspcon of the numberess opnons whch, t
countres unpurfed by the whoesome gaes of free
contendng thought, are aowed to range unmo-
ested, for ages, wth the same cam to the rghts
of prescrpton as frogs and nsects have to ther
stagnant poos. In a peasng and popuar stye,
ey|oo acquanted hs countrymen wth whatever
dscoveres n e permenta phosophy had been
made by Boye at that tme. He decared open
war aganst quackery of a knds. Mraces and
vsons whch had not receved the sancton of the
Church of Pome dd not escape the scrutnzng
eye of the bod Benedctne. uch, n fact, was the
aarm produced by hs works on the a-beevng
race for whom he wrote, that nothng but the pa-
tronage of erdnand I. prevented hs beng s-
enced wth the utma rato of pansh dvnes the
Inquston.
Had the power of addn s amp paced me
wthn the rchest subterraneous paace descrbed n
the raban ghts, t coud not have produced the
raptures I e perenced from the nteectua trea-
sure of whch I now magned mysef the master.
Physca strength deveopes tsef so graduay, that
few, I am ncned to thnk, derve peasure from a
sudden start of body vgour. But my mnd, ke
a young brd n the nest, had ved unconscous of
ts wngs, t ths une pected eader had, by hs
bodness, aured t nto fght. rom a state of
mere anma fe, I found mysef at once possessed
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L TT P P0M P I . 87
of the facuty of thnkng and I can scarcey con-
ceve, that the 0u, emergng after death nto a
hgher rank of e stence, sha fee and try ts new .f
powers wth a keener deght. My knowedge, t
s true, was confned to a few physca and hstor-
ca facts but I had, a at once, earned to reason,
to argue, to doubt. To the surprse and aarm of
my good reatves, I had been changed wthn a
few weeks, nto a sceptc who, wthout questonng
regous sub|ects, woud not aow any one of ther
setted notons to pass for ts current vaue. My
mother, wth her usua penetraton, perceved the
new tendency of my mnd, and thanked Heaven, n
my presence, that pan was my natve country
ese, she sad, he woud soon qut the pae of
the church.
The man advantage, however, whch I owed
to my new powers, was a speedy emancpaton
from the rstotec schoo of the Domncans. I
had, sometmes, dpped nto the second voume of
ther ements of Phosophy, and had found, to
my utter dsmay, that they dened the e stence of
a vacuum one of my then favourte doctrnes and
attrbuted the ascent of quds by sucton, to the
horror of nature at beng wounded and torn. ow,
t so happened that ey|oo had gven me the cear-
est notons on the theory of the suckng-pump, and
the reatve gravty of ar and water. othng,
therefore, coud equa my contempt of those
monks, who st contended for the whoe system of
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88
L TT P P0M P I .
sympathes and antpathes. reprmand from the
reverend Professor of Logc, for my utter natten-
ton to hs ectures, sprung, at ength, the mne
whch, charged wth the frst scraps of earnng,
and brmfu of boysh concet, had ong been ready
to e pode.
Had the frar remonstrated wth me n prvate,
my habtua tmdty woud have seaed up my ps.
But he rated me before the whoe cass, and my n-
dgnaton fred up at such an ndgnty. Psng
from my seat wth a courage so new to me that t
seemed to be nspred, I body decared my deter-
mnaton not to burden and pervert my mnd wth
the absurdtes that were taught n ther schoos.
Beng asked, wth a sarcastc sme, whch were
the doctrnes that had thus ncurred my dsappro-
baton, I vsby surprsed the Professor no brght
genus hmsef wth the theory of the suckng-
pump, and actuay nonpus d hm on the mghty
queston of vacuum. To be thus bearded by a strp-
ng, was more than hs professona humty coud
bear. He bade me thank my famy for not beng
that moment turned out of the ecture-room as-
surng me, however, that my father shoud be ac-
quanted wth my mpertnence n the course of
that day. et I must do |ustce to hs good-na-
ture and moderaton n checkng the students,
who wshed to serve me, ke ancho, wth a ban-
ketng.
Before the threatened message coud reach my
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L TT P P0M P I .
8
father, I had, wth great rhetorca sk, engaged
materna prde and fear, n my favour. In what
coours the frar may have panted my mpudence,
I nether earned nor cared : for my mother, whose
dske of the Domncans, as the enemes of the
|esuts, had been roused by the pubc reprmand
of the Professor, took the whoe matter nto her
hands, and before the end of the week, I heard,
wth raptures, that my name was to be entered at
the Unversty.
Havngthus ucky obtaned the ob|ect of my
wshes, I soon retreved my character for ndustry,
and receved the pubc thanks of my new Profes-
sor. What mght have been my progress under a
better system than that of a pansh unversty,
vanty w probaby not aow me to |udge wth
farness. I w, therefore, content mysef wth ay-
ng a sketch of that system before the reader.
The pansh unverstes had contnued n a
state worthy of the thrteenth century, t the year
1770, when the Marqus of Poda, a favourte m-
nster of Chares III., gave them an amended pan of
studes, whch though far beow the eve of know-
edge over the rest of urope, seems at east to re-
cognse the progress of the human mnd snce the
revva of etters. The present pan forbds the
study of the rstotec phosophy, and attempts
the ntroducton of the nductve system of Bacon
but s shamefuy defcent, n the department of
terature. Three years successve attendance n
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0
L TT P P0M P I .
the schoos of ogc, natura phosophy, and meta-
physcs, s the ony requste for a master s degree
and, though the e amnatons are both ong and
severe, few of the pansh unverstes have yet a-
tered the od statute whch obges the canddates
to draw ther Theses from rstote s ogc and phy-
scs, and to dever a ong dscourse upon one chap-
ter of each , thus eavng ther day ectures per-
fecty at varance wth the fna e amnatons.
Besdes these preparatory schoos, every unversty
has three or four professors of dvnty, as many of
cv and canon aw, and sedom ess of medcne.
The students are hot requred to ve n coeges
There are, however, estabshments of ths knd
for under-graduates but beng, for the most part,
ntended for a mted number of poor boys, they
make no part of the cademc /system. et some
of these coeges have, by a strange combnaton of
crcumstances, rsen to such a heght of spendour
and nfuence, that I must dgress nto a short sketch
of ther hstory.
The orgna dvson of pansh coeges nto
mnor and ma|or, arose from the branches of earn-
ng for whch they were ntended. Grammar and
rhetorc aone were taught n the frst dvnty,
aw, and medcne, n the ast. Most of the Cocgos
Mayores were, by papa bus and roya decrees,
erected nto unverstes, where, besdes the feows,
students mght repar day to hear the pubc ec-
tures, and fnay take ther degrees. Thus the un-
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L TT P P0M P I .
1
versty of ths town ( eve) was, t atey, at-
tached to ths coege, the rector or head of whch
eected annuay by the feows, was, by vrtue of
hs offce, rector of the unversty. Ths, and the
great coeges of Caste, en|oyng smar prveges,
but far e ceedng ours n weath and nfuence,
formed the terary arstocracy of pan. Though
the statutes gave no e cuson to pebeans, the cr-
cumstances requred n the canddates for feow-
shps, together wth the esprt de corps whch actu-
ated the eectors, confned such paces to the no-
besse. n ous to ncrease ther nfuence, none of
the s great coeges of pan Coud ever be n-
duced to eect any one who was not connected wth
some of the best fames. Ths, however, was but
a prudenta step, to avod the pubc dsgrace to
whch the pruebas, or nterrogatores reatve to
bood, mght otherwse e pose the canddates. 0ne
of the feows was, and s st at eve, accordng
to the statutes, to repar to the brth-pace of the
parents of the eected member, as we as to those
of hs two grandfathers and grandmothers e cept
when any of them s a foregner, a crcumstance
whch prevents the |ourney, though not the nqury
-n order to e amne upon oath, from ffteen to
thrty wtnesses at each pace. These, ether from
ther own knowedge, or the current report of the
town, must swear that the ancestor n queston
never was a mena servant, a shopkeeper or petty
tradesman a mechanc had nether hmsef, nor ny
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L TT P P0M P I .
of hs reatons, been punshed by the Inquston,
nor was descended from |ews, Moors, frcans,
Indans, or Guanchos, . e. the aborgnes of the
Canary Isands. It s evdent that none but the
heredtary gentry coud e pose themseves to ths
ordea: and as the prde of the reporter, together
wth the character of hs coege, were hghy n-
terested n the purty of bood of every member, no
room was eft for the evasons commony resorted
to for the admsson of knghts n the mtary
orders.
Thus, n the course of years, the s great co-
eges coud command the nfuence of the frst
pansh fames a over the kngdom. It was,
besdes, a pont of honour among such as had ob-
taned a feowshp, never to desert the nterest of
ther coege : and, as every cathedra n pan has
three canonres, whch must be obtaned by a te-
rary competton, of whch the canons themseves
are the |udges, wherever a Coegd Mayor had ob-
taned a sta, he was abe to secure a strong party
to any one of hs coege who shoud offer hmsef
as a champon at those terary |ousts. The chap-
There e st n pan some other coeges whch are aso
caed mayores but none, e cept four at aamanca, one at
aadod, and one at eve, were reckoned as a part of the -
terary arstocracy of the country. one but these had the prv-
ege of referrng a ther nterests and concerns to a commttee
of the supreme counc of the naton, e pressy named for that
purpose.
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L TT P P0M P I .
3
ters, on the other hand, were generay ncned to
strengthen ther own mportance by the accesson
of peope of rank, eavng poor and unknown
schoars to grove n ther natve obscurty. o
pace of honour n the church and aw was eft un-
occuped by the coegans: and even the dstrbu-
ton whch those powerfu bodes made of ther
members as f not ony a the best offces and s-
tuatons, but even a choce of them, were n ther
hands was no secret to the country at arge.
eows n orders, who possessed abtes, were
kept n reserve for the terary compettons. uch
as coud not appear to advantage at those pubc
tras were, by means of court favour, provded for
wth stas n the weathest cathedras. The ab-
soutey du and gnorant were made nqustors,
who, passng |udgment n ther secret has, coud
not dsgrace the coege by ther bunders. Med-
cne not beng n honour, there were no feows of
that professon. The ay members of the ma|or
coeges beonged e cusvey to the aw, but they
woud never qut ther feowshps e cept for a pace
among the |udges. ven n the present ow ebb
of coegate nfuence, the Coege of eve woud
dsown any of the feows who shoud act as a mere
advocate.
Whe the coeges were st at the heght of
ther power, a young awyer offered hmsef for one
of the feowshps at aamanca, and was dsdan-
fuy re|ected for want of suffcent proofs of nobesse.
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4 L TT P P0M P I .
By an e traordnary combnaton of crcumstances,
the offended canddate rose to be prme mnster of
state, under Chares III., wth the tte of Marqus
of Poda. The e traordnary success he had met
wth n pubc fe, coud not, however, hea the
wound hs prde had receved n hs youth. But,
besdes the nducement of hs prvate feengs, he
seems to have been an enemy to a nfuence whch
was not e erted by the kng and hs mnsters.
Two powerfu bodes, the |esuts and the coeges,
engrossed so forcby, and, I may say, panfuy, hs
attenton, that t was wtty observed, that the
spectaces he wore had panted gasses, one repre-
sentng a |esut, the other a coegan and thus a-
owed hm to see nothng ese. The destructon to
whch he had doomed them was, at ength, accom-
pshed by hs means. Hs man trumph was, ndeed,
over the |esuts . yet hs success aganst the coeges,
though certany ess spendd, was the more grat-
fyng to hs persona feengs. The method he em-
poyed n the downfa of the ast s not unworthy
of notce, both for ts perfect smpcty, and the
ght t throws upon the state and character of the
country. Havng the whoe patronage of the
Crown n hs hands, he paced, wthn a short tme,
a the e stng members of the aamanca coeges,
n the most desrabe stuatons both of the church
and aw, fng ther vacances wth young men of
no famy. Thus the bond of coegate nfuence
was suddeny snapped asunder: the od members
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L TT P P0M P I .
5
dsowned ther successors and such as a few days
before ooked upon a feowshp as an ob|ect of
ambton, woud have fet mortfed at the sght
of a reatve wearng the gown of a reformed co-
ege. The Coego Mayor of eve was attacked
by other means. Wthout enforcng the admsson
of the unprveged casses, the mnster, by an
arbtrary order, deprved t of ts rght to confer
degrees. The convocaton of doctors and masters
was empowered to eect ther own rector, and
name professors for the schoos, whch were sub-
sequenty opened to the pubc n one of the desert-
ed houses that had beonged to the |esuts. uch
s the orgn of the unversty where I receved my
educaton.
ght, however, are the advantages whch a
young mnd can derve from academca studes n
pan. To e pect a ratona system of educaton
where the Inquston s constanty on the watch to
keep the human mnd wthn the boundares whch
the Church of Pome, wth her host of dvnes, has
set to ts progress woud shew a perfect gnorance
of the character of our regon. Thanks to the
eague between our church and state, the Cathoc
dvnes have neary succeeded n keepng down
knowedge to ther own eve. ven such branches
of scence as seem east connected wth regon,
cannot escape the theoogca rod and the sprt
whch made Gaeo recant upon hs knees hs ds-
coveres n astronomy, st compes our professors
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L TT P P0M P I .
to teach the Coperncan system as an hypothess.
The truth s that, wth Cathoc dvnes, no one
pursut of the human mnd s ndependent of re-
gon. nce the frst appearance of Chrstanty, ts
doctrnes have ever been bended wth the phoso-
phca vews of ther teachers. The scrptures
themseves, nvauabe as they are n formng the
mora character, frequenty touch, by ncdent, upon
sub|ects unconnected wth ther man ob|ect, and
treat of nature and cv socety accordng to the
notons of a rude peope n a very prmtve perod.
Hence the encroachments of dvnes upon every
branch of human knowedge, whch are st sup-
ported by the hand of power n a great part of
urope, but n none so outrageousy as n pan.
stronomy must ask the nqustors eave to see
wth her own eyes. Geography was ong com-
peed to shrnk before them. Dvnes were made
the |udges of Coumbus s pans of dscovery, as we
as to aot a speces to the mercans. spectre
monk haunts the Geoogst n the owest cavtes of
the earth and one of fesh and bood watches the
steps of the phosopher on ts surface. natomy
s suspected, and watched cosey, whenever she
takes up the scape and Medcne had many a
pang to endure whe endeavourng to e punge the
use of bark and nocuaton from the cataogue of
morta sns. ou must not ony beeve what the
Inquston beeves, but yed mpct fath to the
theores and e panatons of her dvnes. To ac-
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knowege oh the authorty of Peveaton, that man-
knd w rse from ther graves, s not suffcent
tb protect the unfortunate Metaphyscan-, who
shoud deny that man s a Compound of two sub-
stances, one of whch s naturay mmorta. It
was ong a great obstace to the re|ecton of the
rstotec phosophy, that the substanta forms
of the schoos were found a e ceedngy conve-
nent ve for the nvsbe work of transubstanta-
ton for our good dvnes shrewdy suspected, that
f coour, taste, sme, and a the other propertes
of bodes were aowed to be mere accdents the
bare mpressons on our sense of one varousy
modfed substance t mght be pausby urged
that, n the consecrated Host, the body of Chrst
had been converted nto bread, not the bread nto
that body. But t woud be endess and tedous to
trace a the nks, of whch the Inquston has
formed the chan that bnds and weghs down the
human mnd among us. cquescence n the
voumnous and mutfarous creed of the Poman
chufrch s by no means suffcent for safety. man
who coses hs work wth the 0. . C. . P. .
(0mna sub correctone anctee Pomance ccesee)
may yet rue the moment when he took pen n hand.
Heterodo y may be easy avoded n wrtng but
who can be sure that none of hs perods smacks of
heresy (sapens haeresm) none of hs sentences
are of that uncouth speces whch s apt to grate
pous ears (parum aurum of ensvas) Who thet
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8
L TT P P0M P I .
w venture upon the path of knowedge, where
t eads straght to the Inquston
et such s the energy of the human mnd,
when once acquanted wth ts own powers, that
the best organzed system of nteectua tyranny,
though so far successfu as to prevent pansh
taent from brngng any frut to maturty, fas
most competey of checkng ts actvty. Coud I
but accuratey draw the pcture of an ngenuous
young mnd struggng wth the obstaces whch
pansh educaton opposes to mprovement the
aarm at the sprngng suspcons of beng purposey
betrayed nto error the supersttous fears that
check ts frst ongngs after berty the honest
and ngenous casustry by whch t encourages
tsef to eave the prescrbed path the maden |oy
and fearofthe frst transgresson the rapdy-grow-
ng ove of newy dscovered truth, and consequent
hatred of ts tyrants the fna despar and wd
phrenzy that possess t on fndng ts doom n-
evtabe, on seeng wth an appang evdence, that
ts best e ertons are ost, that gnorance, bgotry,
II s est tab dans Madrd un systeme de berte sur
a vente des productons, qu s eend meme cees dea presse
et que, pourvu que |e ne pare en mes Merts n de autorte, n
du cue, n de a potque, n de a morae, n des gens en pace,
n des corps en credt, n de 0pera, n des autres spectaces, n
, de personne qu tenne a queque chose, |e pus tout mprraer
brement, sous nspecton de deu ou tros censeurs. Mar-
rage de garo, ct 5, e. 3,
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L TT P P0M P I .
and superstton cam and can enforce ts homage
no pot of romance woud be read wth more n-
terest by such as are not ndfferent to the nobest
concerns of manknd. s I cannot, however, pre-
sent an anmated pcture, I sha proceed wth a
statement of facts.
n mperfect knowedge of ogc and natura
phosophy was a I acqured at the unversty
before I began the study of dvnty and ke most
of my countrymen, I shoud have competed my
studes wthout so much as suspectng the e st-
ence of eegant terature, had t not been for my
acquantance wth an e ceent young man, much
my senor at the unversty, who, by hs own un-
asssted ndustry, had made some progress n the
study and mtaton of the casscs. To hm I
owed my frst acquantance wth pansh poetry,
and my earest attempts at composton n my own
anguage. My good fortune ed me, but a short
tme after, to a member of the Coego May r
of ths town another sef-mproved man, whose
e traordnary taents havng enabed hm, at the
age of nneteen, to cast a geam of good taste over
the system of hs own unversty of 0suna, made
hm subsequenty, at eve, the centre of a sma
cub of students.-| Through the nfuence of hs
genus, and the gratutous assstance he gave them
Don Manue Mara de Marmo.
f Don Manue Mara de r|ona,
H 2
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100
L TT P P0M P I .
n ther studes, some of hs prvate pups rose so
far above the mass of ther academca feows, as
to shew by the far, though scanty, produce of
ther mnds, the rch promse whch the state of
ther country yeary basts.
In a the pansh unverstes wth whch
I am acquanted, I have observed a smar strug-
ge between enterprsng genus and consttuted g-
norance. aenca, Granada, the coege of an
ugenco at Murca aamanca, above a, and
eve, the east among them have e hbted
symptoms of rebeon, arsng from the undaunted
ardour of some young members, who havng opened
for themseves a path to knowedge, woud, at some
tme or other, make a desperate effort to aure
the rsng generaton to foow ther steps. The
bodest champons n ths hopeess contest, have
generay started among the professors of mora
phosophy. Government had confned them to
the puny ements of |acquer and Hennecus
but a mnd once set on the proper study of man-
knd, must be weak ndeed not to e tend ts
vews beyond the mts prescrbed by the gno-
rance of a despot or hs mnsters. Wth aarm
and consternaton to the whe-tasseed heads, and
cooured tasse on the cap s, n pan, the pecuar
dstncton of doctors and masters. I hte, denotes dvnty :
green, canon aw: crmson, cv aw: yeow, medcne and
bue, arts, . e. phosophy. Those caps are worn ony on pubc
occasons at the unverstes.
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L TT P P0M P I .
101
thrng hopes to ther secret enemes, connected
seres of Theses have of ate appeared among us,
whch, n spte of the studed cauton of ther
anguage, betrayed both ther orgn and tendency.
Genune offsprng of the rench schoo, the very
turn of ther phrases gave strong ndcatons of a
stye formed n defance of the Hoy Inquston.
But these fts of restess mpatence have ony
secured the yoke they were ntended to oosen.
I have vsted aamanca after the great defeat of
the phosophca party, the strongest that ever
was formed n pan. man of frst-rate terary
character among us, whom mert and court favour
had rased to one of the chef seats n the |udcature
of the country, but whom court caprce had, about
ths tme, sent to rustcate at aamanca, was dong
me the honours of the pace, when, approachng the
convocaton-ha of the unversty, we perceved the
members of the facuty of dvnty strong about,
whe watng for a meetng of therbody. runaway
save, st bearng the marks of the ash on hs
return, coud not have shrunk more nstnctvey at
the sght of the panters meetng at the counc-
room, than my frend dd at the vew of the cows,
whte, back, and grey, whch partay hd the
seek faces of hs offended masters. He had, t s
true, been ucky enough to escape the mprson-
ment and subsequent penance n a monastery
Metrrdez atdeTT.
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102 L TT P P0M P I .
whch was the sad ot of the chef of hs routed
party but he hmsef was st suspected and
watched cosey. The rest of hs frends, the fower
of the unversty, had been kept for three or four
years, n constant fear of ther persona berty,
beng often caed before the secret trbuna to
answer the most captous nterrogatores about
themseves and ther acquantance, but never put
n possesson of every count of the ndctment.
fter ths and a few such e ampes, we have, at ast,
perceved the foy of engagng n a desperate game,
where no possbe combnaton can, for the present,
gve the dssentng party a snge chance of success.
rench phosophy had not found ts way to
the unversty of eve, at the tme when I was
studyng dvnty. ven the knowedge of the
rench anguage was a rare acqurement both
among the professors and ther hearers. I have
mentoned, at the begnnng of ths sketch, that one
of the few books whch deghted my chdhood
was a pansh transaton of Teemachus. for-
tunate ncdent had now thrown nto my hands the
orgna of my od favourte, and I attempted to un-
derstand a few nes by comparng them wth the
verson. My success e ceeded my hopes. Wthout
ether grammar or dctonary, I coud, n a few
weeks, read on : guessng a great dea, t s true, but
vsby mprovng my knowedge of the dom by
comparng the force of unknown words n dfferent
passages. n odd voume of Pacne s tragedes
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L TT P P0M P I .
103 v
was my ne t rench book. Imperfecty as I must
have understood that tender and eegant poet, hs
pays gave me so much peasure, that by repeated
readngs I found mysef abe to understand rench
poetry. It was about ths tme that I made my
nvauabe acquantance at our coege. My frend
had earned both rench and Itaan n a smar
manner wth mysef. He was acquanted wth one
of the |udges of our udenca, or provnca court
of |udcature, a man of great terary ceebrty,
who possessed a very good brary, from whence I
was nduged wth rench books, as we as Itaan
for by a tte ngenuty and the anaogy of my own
anguage, I had aso enabed mysef to read the
anguage of Petrarch.
Htherto I had never had courage enough to
take a forbdden book n my hands. The e com-
muncaton mpendng over me by the words pso
facto, was ndeed too terrfc an ob|ect for my ne -
perenced mnd. Deghted wth my newy ac-
qured taste for poetry and eoquence, I had
never brooded over any regous doubts or rather,
sncerey adherng to the Poman Cathoc aw,
whch makes the e amnaton of such doubts as great
a crme as the dena of the artce of beef they
affect, I had aways shrunk wth terror from every
heterodo suggeston. But my now ntmate frend
and gude had made canon aw hs professon.
Don |uan Pabo rne .
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U)4 LfcTT P . P0M P I ,.
ccesastca hstory, v whch he was deepy
versed, had, wthout weakenng hs Cathoc prn-
cpes, made hm a pup of that schoo of canonsts
who, hoth n Germany and rance, havng e posed
the forgeres, by means of whch papa power bad
made tsef paramount to every human authorty
were but too vsby dsposed to a separaton from
Pome. My frend dened the e stence of any
power n the Church to nfct e communcaton,
wthout a decaratory sentence n consequence of
|he tra of the offender. Upon the strength of ths
doctrne, e made me read the c Dscourses on
ccesastca Hstory, by the bbe eury a
work teemng wth nvectve aganst monks and
frars, doubts on modern mraces, and strctures
on the vrtues of modern sants. ve s heart, I
confess, when
her ra h. hand n ev hour
orth reachng to the frut, she puck d, she ate,
coud not have beaten more convusvey than wne,
as I opened the forbdden book. ague fears and
doubts haunted my conscence for many days,
But my frend, besdes beng a sound Cathoc,
was a devout man. He had atey taken prest s-
orders, and was now not ony my terary but m)f
sprtua drector. Hs abtes and hs, affecton,
to me had obtaned a most perfect command over
my mnd, and t was. not |ong before I coud match
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L TT P P0M P I . 105

hm n menta bodness, on ponts unconnected

wth artces of fath.
Ths was, ndeed, the happest perod of my
fe. The greatest part of my tme, wth the e -
cepton of that requred for my day attendance at
the du ectures of the dvnty professors, was
devoted to the rench crtcs, ndre, Le Bossu,
Batteu , Pon, La Harpe, and many others of
ess note. The habt of anayzng anguage and
deas, whch I acqured n the perusa of such
works, soon ed me to some of the rench meta-
physcans, especay Condac.
It was the favourte amusement of mysef and
those constant assocates of my youth that formed
the knot of frends, of whom the often mentoned
Coegd Mayor was the centre and gude to e a-
mne a our feengs, n order to resove them nto
some genera aw, and trace them to ther smpe
eements. Ths habt of anayss and generazaton
e tended tsef to the customs and habts of the
country, and the day ncdent-s of fe, t n the
course of tme t produced n me the decetfu,
though not uncommon noton, that a knowedge
stohe resut of deveoped prncpes, and gave me a-
dstaste for every book that was not cast nto- a
reguar theory.
Whe 1 was thus amused and deceved by the
actvty of my mnd, wthout endeavourng to gve
t the. weght and steadness whch, depends upon
the knowedge of faet Cathocsm, wth ts, ten-
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10 L TT P P0M P I .
thousand rues and practces, was mechancay
keepng up the -contrved structure of devoton,
whch t had rased more n my fancy than my
heart. It had now to contend, however, wth an
enemy whom nothng but f ed hope can keep
wthn bounds but regon had eft me no hope.
Instead of engagng ove on her sde, she had forced
hm nto an nseparabe eague wth mmoraty. I
w not descrbe the msery that embttered my
youth, and destroyed the peace of my maturer
years the strugges, perhaps the crmes, certany
the remorse, that were n me the consequence of
the barbarous aws of my country. They are too
ntmatey bended wth sef, too ntrcatey entwn-
ed wth the feengs of others, to be eft e posed
for ever to the cod ndfference of the mu-
ttude. Whatever on ths pont s connected
wth the genera state of pan, has aready
been touched upon. Mne, ndeed, s the ot
of thousands. 0ften dd I reco at the approach
of the moment when I was to bnd mysef
for ever to the cerca professon, and as often my
heart faed me at the sght of a mother n tears
It was no wordy nterest t was the eterna we-
fare of my sou, whch she beeved to depend on
my foowng the ca of Heaven, that made the
best of mothers a snare to her dearest chd. The
persuasons of my confessor, and, above a, the
happness I e perenced n restorng cheerfuness
to my famy, deuded me nto the hope of preserv-
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L TT P P0M P I . 107
ng the same feeng through fe. very short
tme, however, was suffcent to open my eyes.
The ne orabe aw that bound me, was the btter-
est foe to my vrtue. et devoton had not ost her
power over my fancy, and I broke oose, more than
once, from her thradom, and was as often recam-
ed, before the awfu perod whch was to rase me to
the presthood.
If menta e ctement, attended wth the most
thrng and subme sensatons, the effect of
decepton, coud be nduged wthout n|ury to
our nobest facutes f fe coud be made a
ong dream wthout the panfu startngs produced
by the dn and coson of the word f the opum
of deuson coud be argey admnstered wthout a
compete enervaton of our ratona energes the
ot of a man of feeng, brought up n the undsturbed
beef of the Cathoc doctrnes, and rased to be a
dspenser of ts mysteres woud be envabe above
a others. o abstract beef, f I am to trust
my e perence, can ether sooth our fears or feed
our hopes, ndependenty of the magnaton and
I am strongy ncned to assert, that no genune
persuason e sts upon unearthy sub|ects, wthout
the co-operaton of the magnatve facuty. Hence
the powerfu effects of the spendd and strkng
system of worshp adopted by the Poman church.
foregner may be ncned to augh at the strange
ceremones performed n a pansh cathedra, be-
cause these ceremones are a conventona anguage
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108 L TT P . P0M P I .
to whch he attaches no deas. But he that from
the crade has been accustomed to kss the hand of
the prest, and receve hs bessng that has
assocated the name and attrbutes of the Dety wth
the consecrated bread that has observed the awe
wth whch t s handed how none but annonted
hands dare touch t what couds of ncense, what
brancy of gems surround t when e posed to the
vew wth what heartfet an ety the gare of
ghts, the sound of musc, and the unnterrupted
adoraton of the prests n watng, are made to
evnce the overpowerng feeng of a God dweng
among men such a man aone can conceve the
state of a warm-hearted youth, who, for the frst
tme approaches the atar, not as a mere attend-
ant, but as the soe worker- of the greatest of mra-
ces.
o anguage can do |ustce to my own feengs
at the ceremony of ordnaton, the performance of
the frst mass, and durng the nterva whch
eapsed between ths fever of enthusasm and the
cod sceptsm that soon foowed t. or some
months prevous to the awfu ceremony I vounta-
ry secuded mysef fk m the word, makng re-
gous readng and medtaton the soe empoyment
of my tme. The ercses of ant Ignatus,
whch mmedatey preceded the day of ordnaton,
fed my heart wth what appeared to me a setted
dstaste for every wordy peasure. When the con-
s ccatng rghts had been.: performed when my
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L TT P P0M P I .
10
hands had been annonted the sacred vesture, at
frst foded on my shouders, et drop around me by
the hands of the bshop the subme hymn to the
a-creatng prt uttered n soemn strans, and the
power of restorng snners to nnocence, conferred
upon me when, at ength, rased to the dgnty of
a feow-worker wth God, the bshop addressed
me, n the name of the avour: Henceforth I
ca you not servant.... but I have caed you
frend I truy fet as f, freed from the matera
part of my beng, I beonged to a hgher rank of
e stence. I had st a heart, t s true a heart
ready to burst at the sght of my parents, on ther
knees, whe mpressng the frst kss on my newy-
consecrated hands but t was dead to the charms
of beauty. mong the frendy crowd that sur-
rounded me for the same purpose, were those ps
whch a few months before I woud have ded to
press yet I coud but |ust mark ther superor
softness. In van dd I e ert mysef to check e u-
berance of feengs at my frst mass. My tears be-
dewed the corporas on whch, wth the eyes of
fath, I behed the dsgused over of manknd whom
I had drawn from heaven to my hands. These are
dreams, ndeed, the usons of an over-heated
fancy but dreams they are whch some of the
nobest mnds have dreamt through fe wthout
wakng dreams whch, whe passng vvdy be-
fore the menta eye, must entrey wrap up the sou
of every one who s nether more nor ess than a man.
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110 L TT P P0M P I .
To e ercse the prveges of my offce for the
beneft of my feow-creatures, was now my e cu-
sve am and purpose. I day ceebrated mass, wth
due preparaton, preached often, and re|ected none
that apped to me for confesson. The best ascetc
wrters of the Church of Pome were constanty n
my hands. I made a study of the athers but,
though I had the crptures among my books, t
was, accordng to custom, more for reference than
perusa. These feengs, ths state of menta ab-
stracton, s by no means uncommon, for a tme,
among young prests whose hearts have not been
wthered by a course of premature profgacy. It
woud be absurd to e pect t n such as embrace
the cerca state as a trade, or are ed to the church
by ambton, and east of a among the few that
woud never bnd themseves wth the aws of cebacy,
had they not prevousy freed ther mnds from a
regous fears. et, among my numerous acquant-
ance n the pansh cergy, I have never met wth
any one, possessed of bod taents, who has not,
sooner or ater, changed from the most sncere pety
to a state of unbeef. Were every ndvdua who
has undergone ths nterna transformaton to de-
scrbe the steps by whch t was accompshed, I
doubt not but the genera outne woud prove ake
n a. I sha, however, concude my narratve by
fathfuy reatng the orgn and progress of the
ee ote .
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L TT P P0M P I .
I
tota change that took pace n my mnd wthn
tte more than a year after takng prest s orders.
The deas of consstency and perfecton are
strongy attached by every sncere Cathoc to hs
system of fath. The church of Pome has payed
for many centures a desperate though, t atey,
a successfu game. Havng once procamed the
necessty of an abtract creed for savaton, and
made hersef the nfabe framer and e pounder
of that creed, she eaves her votares no aternatve
but that of recevng or re|ectng the whoe of her
doctrnes. Lucky for her nterests, men sedom
go beyond a certan nk n the chan of thought,
or aow themseves to ook nto the sources of
tradtonary doctrnes. Her theoogca system on
the other hand, havng so shaped ts gradua growth
as to f up defcences as they were perceved,
affords an ampe range to every mnd that, wthout
venturng to e amne the foundatons, sha be con-
tented wth the symmetry, of the structure. I
have often heard the queston, how coud such
men as Bossuet and eneon adhere to the church
of Pome and re|ect the Protestant fath The
answer appears to me obvous. Because, accord-
ng to ther f ed prncpes on ths matter, they
must have been ether Cathocs or Infdes. Lay-
ng t down as an a om, that Chrstanty was
chefy ntended to revea a system of doctrnes ne-
cessary for savaton, they naturay and con-
sstenty nferred the e stence of an authorzed
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112 L TT P P0M P I .
|udge upon questons of fath, otherwse the n-
evtabe doubts arsng from prvate |udgment woud
defeat the ob|ect of reveaton. Thus t s that
Bossuet thought he had trumphanty confuted the
Protestants by merey shewng that they coud not
agree n ther rtces. Lke Bossuet, most Cathoc
dvnes can see no medum between denyng the
nfabe authorty of the Church and re|ectng
reveaton.
e o proposton n ucd coud convey stronger
convcton to my mnd than that whch I found n
ths demma. Let me but prove, sad I to mysef,
that there e sts a snge faw n the system, and t
w a crumbe nto dust et, as n a Cathoc,
once to doubt s once to be resoved, I mght have
eternay cosed my eyes, ke many others, aganst
the mpresson of the most garng fasehoods for
how coud I retreve the rash step of hodng my
|udgment n suspense whe I e amned The
most hdeous crmes fa wthn the |ursdcton of
a confessor but the morta tant of heresy can-
not be removed e cept by the Pope s deegated
authorty, whch, n pan, he has deposted n the
hands of the Inquston. houd I deberatey
nduge my doubts for a moment, what a mountan
of crme and msery I shoud brng upon my head
My offce woud, probaby, ay me under the ne-
cessty of ceebratng mass the ne t day, whch, to
do wth a conscousness of unabsoved sn, s sacr-
ege whe ths partcuar offence woud besde
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L TT P P0M P I .
113
nvove me n the eccesastca sentence of suspen-
son and nterdct. The recurrng necessty of
offcatng at the atar, before I coud remove these
nabtes, woud ncrease them every day tenfod,
and gve my fe a foretaste of the torturng fre to
whch I shoud be doomed by the sentence of my
church. These fears are not pecuar to tmd or
weak characters: they are the egtmate conse-
quences of a consstent and compcated system, and
cannot be dspeed but by a decded re|ecton of
the whoe.
The nvountary tran, however, both of feeng
and thought, whch was to make me break out
nto compete rebeon, had ong been sappng
the foundatons of my fath, wthout my beng
aware that the whoe structure nodded to ts run.
du sense of e stence, a heavness that paed
my taste for fe and ts concerns, had succeeded
my frst ardour of devoton. Conscentousy fath-
fu to my engagements, and secuded from every
ob|ect that mght ruffe the cam of my heart, I
ooked for happness n the performance of my
duty. But happness was fed from me and,
though totay e empt from remorse, I coud not
bear the death-ke sence of my sou. n unmean-
ng and e tremey burdensome practce ad by the
Church of Pome upon her cergy, contrbuted not
a tte to ncrease the rksomeness of my crcum-
stances. Cathoc cergyman, who empoys hs
whoe day n the dscharge of hs duty to others,
I
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114 L TT P P0M P I .
must yet repeat to hmsef the servce ot the day n
an audbe voce a performance whch nether
constant practce, nor the most rapd utterance can
brng wthn the compass of ess than an hour and
a haf n the four-and-twenty. Ths e haustng
e ercse s en|oned under pan of morta sn, and
the resttuton of that day s ncome on whch any
porton of the offce s omtted.
Was mne a fe of usefuness Dd not the
word, wth a ts strugges, ts mseres, and ts
vces, hod out nober and more e ated ends
than ths tame and deadenng system of per-
fecton How strong must be the probabty of
future reward, to baance the actua certanty of
such proonged msery uppose, however, the
reaty and magntude of the recompence am I
not day, and houry, n danger of eterna perd-
ton My heart snks at the vew of the ntermn-
abe st of offences every one of whch may fnay
punge me nto the everastng fames. verastng
and why so Can there be revenge or cruety n the
mghty uch were the harassng thoughts wth
whch I wrested day and nght. Prostrate upon
my knees I day prayed for deverance but my
prayers were not heard. I tred to strengthen my
fath by readng Berger, and some of the rench
poogsts. But what can they ava a doubtng
Cathoc Hs system of fath beng ndvsbe,
the evdences of Chrstanty ead hm to the most
garng absurdtes. To argue wth a doubtng
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L TT P P0M P I . 115
Cathoc s to encourage and hasten hs deserton.
Chateaubrand has perfecty understood the nature
of hs task, and by engagng the feengs and ma-
gnaton n defence of hs creed, has gven t the
farest chance aganst the dry and tasteess phoso-
phy of hs countrymen. Hs book propped up
my fath for a whe.
most on the eve of my menta crss, I had to
preach a sermon upon an e traordnary occason
when, accordng to a fashon derved from rance, a
ong and eaborate dscourse was e pected. I made
nfdety my sub|ect, wth a most sncere desre of
convncng mysef whe I aboured to persuade
others. What effect my arguments may have had
upon the audence I know not they were certany
ost upon the orator. Whatever, n ths state, coud
break the habt of awe whch I was so tenacousy
supportng whatever coud urge me nto utterng
a doubt on one of the rtces of the Poman Creed,
was sure to make my fath vansh ke a soap-bubbe
n the ar. I had been too earnest n my devoton,
and my Church too pressng and demandng. Lke
a cod, artfu, nterested mstress, that Church ether
e hausts the ardour of her best overs, or harasses
them to destructon. s to mysef, a moment s
daance wth her great rva, reedom, converted
my former ove nto perfect abhorrence.
0ne mornng, as I was wrapt up n my usua
Beautes of Chrstanty, 3 vos. 8vo.
2
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11
L TT P P0M P I .
thoughts, on the banks of the Guadaquvr, a gen-
teman, who had atey been named by the govern-
ment to an mportant pace n our provnca |ud-
cature, |oned me n the course of my rambe.
We had been acquanted but a short tme, and he,
though forced nto cauton by an eary danger from
the Inquston, was st frendy and communca-
tve. Hs taents of forensc eoquence, and the
sprghtness and eegance of hs conversaton, had
nduced a convcton on my mnd, that he beonged
to the phosophca party of the unversty where
he had been educated. Urged by an rresstbe m-
puse, I ventured wth hm upon neutra ground
monks, eccesastca encroachments, e travagant
devoton t the stream of thought I had thus a-
aowed to gde over the feebe mound of my fears,
sweng, every moment, broke forth as a torrent
from ts ong and voent confnement. I was sten-
ed to wth encouragng kndness, and there was not
a doubt n my heart whch I dd not dscose.
Doubts they had, ndeed, appeared to me t that
moment but utterance tranformed them, at once,
nto demonstratons. It woud be mpossbe to
descrbe the fear and trepdaton that sezed me the
moment I parted from my good-natured confdant.
The prsons of the Inquston seemed ready to
cose ther studded gates upon me and the very
he I had |ust dened, appeared yawnng before
my eyes. et, a few days eapsed, and no ev had
overtaken me. I performed mass wth a heart n
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L TT P P0M P I .
117
open rebeon to the Church that en|oned t: but
I had now setted wth mysef to offer t up to my
Creator, as I magne that the enghtened Greeks
and Pomans must have done ther sacrfces. I was
ke them, forced to e press my thankfuness n
an absurd anguage.
Ths frst taste of menta berty was more de-
cous than any feeng I ever e perenced but t
was succeeded by a burnng thrst for every thng
that, by destroyng my od menta habts, coud
strengthen and confrm my unbeef. I gave an
e orbtant prce for any rench rregous books,
whch the ove of gan nduced some pansh book-
seers to mport at ther per. The ntutve know-
edge of one another, whch persecuted prncpes
mpart to such as chersh them n common, made
me soon acquanted wth severa members of my
own professon, deepy versed n the phosophca
schoo of rance. They possessed, and made no
dffcuty to end me, a the ntchrstan works,
whch teemed from the rench press. Where there
s no berty, there can be no dscrmnaton. The
ravenous appette rased by forced abstnence makes
the mnd gorge tsef wth a sorts of food. I sus-
pect I have thus mbbed some fase, and many
crude notons from my rench masters. But my
crcumstances precude the cam and dspassonate
e amnaton whch the sub|ect deserves. aspe-
rated by the day necessty of e terna submsson
to doctrnes and persons I detest and despse, my
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118
L TT P P0M P I .
sou overfows wth btterness. Though I acknow-
edge the advantages of moderaton, none beng
used towards me, I practcay, and n spte of my
better |udgment, earn to be a fanatc on my own
sde.
Pretendng studous retrement, I have ftted
up a sma room, to whch none but my confden-
ta frends fnd admttance. There e my proh-
bted books, n perfect conceament, n a we-con-
trved nook under a starcase. The Brevary aone,
n ts back-bndng, casps, and gt eaves, s kept
upon the tabe, to check the suspcons of any
chance ntruder.
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L TT P P0M P I .
11
L TT P I .
eve
n une pected event has, snce my ast, thrown
the nhabtants of ths town nto raptures or |oy.
The bu-fghts whch, by a roya order, had been
dscontnued for severa years, were atey granted
to the wshes of the peope. The news of the most
decsve vctory coud not have more eated the
sprts of the ndausans, or roused them nto
greater actvty. o tme was ost n makng the
necessary preparatons. In the course of a few
weeks a was ready for the e hbton, whe every
heart beat hgh wth |oyfu e pectaton of the ap-
ponted day whch was to usher n the favourte
amusement.
ou shoud be tod, however, that eve s ac-
knowedged, on a hands, to have carred these
fghts to perfecton. To her schoo of bumanshp,
that art owes a ts refnements. Bu-fghtng s
consdered by many of our young men of fashon
a hgh and becomng accompshment and m-
mckng the scenes of the amphtheatre forms the
chef amusement among boys of a ranks n nda-
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120
L TT P P0M P I .
usa. The boy who personates the most mportant
character n the drama the bu s furnshed
wth a arge pece of board, armed n front, wth
the natura weapons of the anma, and havng
handes fastened to the ower surface. By the ast
the boy keeps the machne steady on the top of the
head, and wth the former he unmercfuy pushes
such of hs antagonsts as are not de terous enough
to evade, or suffcenty swft to escape hm. The
fghters have sma darts, ponted wth pns, whch
they endeavour to f on a pece of cork stuck fat
on the horned board, t at ength the bu fas,
accordng to rue, at the touch of a wooden sword.
0ur young country-gentemen have a substtute
for the reguar bu-fghts, much more approachng
to reaty. bout the begnnng of summer, the
great breeders of back catte generay men of
rank and fortune send an nvtaton to ther negh-
bours to be present at the tra of the yearngs, n
order to seect those that are to be reserved for the
amphtheatre. The greatest festvty prevas at
these meetngs. temporary scaffodng s rased
round the was of a very arge court, for the ac-
commodaton of the ades. The gentemen attend
on horseback, dressed n short oose |ackets of sk,
chntz, or dmty, the seeves of whch are not
sewed to the body, but aced wth broad rbbons of
a sutabe coour, sweng not ungracefuy round
the top of the shouders. profuson of hangng
buttons, ether sver or god, mosty sver gt,
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L TT P P0M P I .
121
twnke n numerous rows round the wrsts of both
se es. The saddes, caed bardones, to dstn-
gush them from the peak-sadde, whch s sedom
used n ndausa, rse about a foot before and be-
hnd n a tranguar shape. The strrups are ron
bo es, open on both sdes, and affordng a com-
pete rest:the whoe ength of the foot. Both coun-
try-peope and gentemen rdng n these saddes,
use the strrups so short, that, n defance of a the
rues of manage, the knees and toes pro|ect from
the sde of the horse, and, when gaopng, the rder
appears to knee on ts back. whte beaver-hat,
of rather more than two feet dameter, fastened
under the chn by a rbbon, was t atey worn at
these sports, and s st used by the horsemen at
the pubc e hbtons but the Montera s now
prevaent. I fnd t dffcut to descrbe ths part
of the natona dress wthout the ad of a drawng.
Imagne, however, a bshop s mtre nverted, and
cosed on the sde ntended to receve the head.
Conceve the two ponts of the mtre so shortened
that, paced downwards on the sku, they scarcey
cover -the ears. uch s our natona cap. Lke
Don u ote s head-pece, the frame s made of
paste-board. ternay t s back vevet, orna-
mented wth sk frogs and tasses of the same co-
our.
ach of the cavaers hods a ance, tweve feet
n ength, headed wth a three-edged stee pont.
The weapon s caed Garrocha, and t s used by
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122
L TT P P0M P I .
horsemen whenever they have to contend wth the
bus, ether n the feds or the amphtheatre. The
stee, however, s sheathed by two strong eather
rngs, whch are taken off n proporton to the
strength of the bu, and the sort of wound whch
s ntended. 0n the present occason no more than
haf an nch of stee s uncovered. Doube that
ength s aowed n the amphtheatre though the
spear s not ntended to k or dsabe the anma,
but to keep hm off by the panfu pressure of the
stee on a superfca wound. uch however, s the
voence of the bus when attackng the horses, that
I once saw the bunt spear I have descrbed, run
aong the neck nto the body of the beast and k
hm on the spot. But ths s a rare occurrence, and
fou pay was suspected on the part of the man,
who seems to have used more stee than the ance
s aowed to be armed wth.
The company beng assembed n and round the
rura arena, the one-year-od bus are sngy et n
by the herdsmen. It mght be supposed, that an-
mas so young woud be frghtened at the approach
of the horseman couchng hs spear before ther
eyes but our ndausan breeders e pect better
thngs from ther favourtes. young bu must
attack the horseman twce, bearng the pont of the
spear on hs neck, before he s set apart for the
boody honours of the amphtheatre. uch as fnch
from the tra are nstanty thrown down by the
herdsmen, and prepared for the yoke on the spot.
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L TT P P0M P I .
123
These scenes are often concuded wth a more
crue sport, named Derrbar. strong bu s
drven from the herd nto the open fed, where he
s pursued at fu gaop by the whoe band of horse-
men. The pansh bu s a feet anma, and the
horses fnd t dffcut to keep up wth hm at the
frst onset. When he begns, however, to sack n
hs course, the foremost spearsman, couchng hs
ance, and amng obquey at the ower part of
the spne, above the haunches, spurs hs horse to hs
utmost speed, and, passng the bu, nfcts a wound,
whch, beng e ceedngy panfu, makes hm
wnce, ose hs baance, and come down wth a
tremendous fa. The shock s so voent that the
bu seems unabe to rse for some tme. It s
hardy necessary to observe, that such feats requre
an uncommon degree of horsemanshp, and the
most compete presence of mnd.
0ur town tsef abounds n amusements of ths
knd, where the professona bu-fghters earn ther
art, and the amateurs feast ther eyes, occasonay
|onng n the sport wth the very owest of the
peope. ou must know, by the way, that our
town corporaton en|oys the prvege of beng our
soe and e cusve butchers. They aone have a
rght to k and se meat whch, comng through
ther nobe hands, (for ths muncpa government
s entaed on the frst ndausan fames) s the
worst and dearest n the whoe kngdom. Two
droves of ean catte are brought every week to a
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124
L TT P P0M P I .
arge saughter-house (e matadero) whch stands
between one of the cty gates and the suburb of an
Bernardo. To wak n that neghbourhood when
the catte approach s dangerous for, notwth-
standng the emacated condton of the anmas,
and though many are o en and cows, a crowd s
sure to coect on the pan, and by the wavng of
ther coaks, and a sharp whstng whch they
make through ther fngers, they generay succeed
n dspersng the drove, n order to snge out the
fercest for ther amusement. othng but the
pansh coak s used on these occasons. Hodng
t gracefuy at arm s ength before the body, so as
to concea the person from the breast to the feet,
they wave t n the eyes of the anma, shakng ther
heads wth an ar of defance, and generay cang
out Ha Toro, Toro The bu pauses a moment
before he rushes upon the nearest ob|ect. It s sad
that he shuts hs eyes at the nstant of pushng wth
hs horns. The man keepng hs coak n the frst
drecton, fngs t over the head of the anma,
whe he gances hs body to the eft, |ust when the
bu, ed forward by the orgna mpuse, must run
on a few yards wthout beng abe to turn upon
hs adversary, whom, upon wheeng round, he
fnds prepared to deude hm as before. Ths sport
s e ceedngy vey and when practsed by
profcents, sedom attended wth danger. It s
caed Capeo. The whoe popuaton of an Ber-
nardo, men, women and chdren, are adepts n ths
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L TT P P0M P I . 125
art. Wthn the was of the saughter-house, how -
ever, s the pace where the bu-fghters by pro-
fesson are aowed to mprove themseves.
member of the town corporaton presdes, and
admts, grats, hs frends among whom, notwth-
standng the fth natura to such paces, ades do
not dsdan to appear. The Matadero s so we
known as a schoo for bu-fghtng, that t bears the
cant appeaton of the Coege. Many of our frst
nobesse have frequented no other schoo. or-
tunatey, ths fashon s wearng away. et we
have often seen scount Mranda, the head of one
of the proudest fames of the proud cty of Cor-
dova, step nto the pubc amphtheatre, and k a
bu wth hs own hand. Ths genteman had
reared up one of hs favourte anmas, and ac-
customed hm to wak nto hs parour, to the
great consternaton of the company. The bu,
however, once, n a sury mood, forgot hs acqured
tameness, and gored one of the servants to death
n consequence of whch hs master was compeed
to k hm.
That pansh gentemen fght n pubc wth
bus, I suppose you have heard or read. But ths
does not reguary take pace, e cept at the corona-
ton of our kngs, and n ther presence. uch
nobemen as are abe to engage n the perous
sport, vounteer ther servces for the sake of the
reward, whch s some vauabe pace under govern-
ment, f they prefer t to an order of nghthood.
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12 L TT P P0M P I .
They appear on horseback, attended by the frst
professona fghters, on foot, and use short spears
wth a broad bade, caed Pe|ones.
Bu-day, (Da de Toros), as t s emphatcay
caed at eve, stops a pubc and prvate bus-
ness. 0n the precedng afternoon, the amph-
theatre s thrown open to a sorts of peope nds-
crmnatey. Bands of mtary musc enven the
bustng scene. The seats are occuped by such as
wsh to see the promenade on the arena, round
whch the ades parade n ther carrages, whe
every man seems to take peasure n movng on the
same spot where the ferce combat s to take pace
wthn a few hours. The sprts of the company
are, n fact, ptched up by antcpaton to the gay,
nosy, and bod temper of the future sport.
0ur amphtheatre s one of the argest and hand-
somest n pan, great part s but of stone
but, from want of money, the rest s wood. rom
ten to tweve thousand spectators may be accom-
modated wth seats. These rse, uncovered, from
an eevaton of about eght feet above the arena, and
are fnay crowned by a gaery, from whence the
weathy behod the fghts, free from the nconve-
nences of the weather. The owest ter, however,
s preferred by the young gentemen, as affordng a
cear vew of the wounds nfcted on the bu. Ths
ter s protected by a parapet. nother strong-
fence, s feet hgh, s erected round the arena,
eavng a space of about twenty, between ts area
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L TT P P0M P I .
127
and the ower seats. 0penngs, admttng a man
sdeways, are made n ths fence, to aow the men
on foot an escape when cosey pursued by the
bu. They, however, most generay eap over
t, wth uncommon agty. But bus of a cer-
tan breed, w not be eft behnd, and teray
cear the fence. ang nto the vacant space
before the seats, the anma runs about t one of
the gates s opened, through whch he s easy
drawn back to the arena.
ew among the ower casses retre to ther beds
on the eve of a Bu-day. rom mdnght they
pour down the streets eadng to the amphtheatre,
n the most rotous and offensve manner, to be
present at the ncerro shuttng-n of the bus
whch beng performed at the break of day, s aow-
ed to be seen wthout payng for seats. The devoted
anmas are conducted from ther natve feds to a
arge pan n the neghbourhood of eve, from
whence eghteen, the number e hbted day durng
the feasts, are ed to the amphtheatre, on the ap-
ponted day, that ong confnement may not break
down ther ferceness. Ths operaton has some-
thng e tremey wd n ts character. the
amateurs of the town are seen on horseback wth
ther ances hastenng towards Tabada, the spot
where the bus are kept at arge. The herds-
men, on foot, coect the vctms of the day nto a
drove ths they do by means of tame o en, caed
Cabestros, taught to be ed by a hauter, carryng,
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128 L TT P P0M P I .
ted round ther neck, a arge deep-soundng be,
wth a wooden capper. What the habt of fo-
owng the bes of the eaders fas to do, the crack-
ng of the herdsmen s sngs s sure to perform, when
the anmas are not drven to madness. The horse-
men, aso, stand on a sdes of the drove t they
get nto a round trot. Thus they proceed to
wthn haf a me of the amphtheatre. t that
dstance a path s cosed up on both sdes, wth
stout poes, ted horzontay across uprght stakes
a feebe rampart, ndeed, aganst the fury of a
herd of wd bus. et the evan mob, though
fuy aware of the danger, are mad enough to take
peasure n e posng themseves. The ntoerabe
nose n my street, and the nvtaton of a Member
of the Maestranza a corporate assocaton of nobe-
men, whose ob|ect s the breedng and breakng of
horses, and who n ths town en|oy the e cusve
prvege of gvng bu-feasts to the pubc nduced
me, durng the ast season, to get up one mornng
wth the dawn, and take my stand at the amph-
theatre, where, from ther prvate gaery, I com-
manded a vew of the pan yng between the rver
Guadaquvr and that budng.
t the dstant sound of the o en s bes, shoas of
peope were seen drvng wdy over the pan, ke
couds before a strong gae. 0ne coud read n
ther motons, a strugge between fear on one sde,
and vanty and habt on the other. ow they ap-
proached the pasade, now they ran to a more
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L TT P P0M P I . 12
dstant spot. Many cmbed up the trees, whe
the more darng or foo-hardy, kept ther staton on
what they esteemed a post of honour. s our vew
was termnated by a narrow pass between the rver
and the ancent tower caed de 0ro, or Goden,
the cavacade broke upon us wth great effect. It
approached at fu gaop. The eadng horsemen,
now confned wthn the pasades, and havng the
whoe herd at ther hees, were obged to run for
ther ves. ew, however, ventured on ths des-
perate servce, and ther greatest force was n the
rear. The herdsmen cngng to the necks of the
o en, n order to keep pace wth the horses, ap-
peared, to an unpractsed eye, doomed to nevtabe
destructon. The cres of the muttude, the sound
of numberess horns, made of the hoow stem of a
arge speces of thste, the shr and penetratng
whstng, whch seems most to harass and enrage
the bus, together wth the confused and rapd
moton of the scene, coud hardy be endured wth-
out a degree of dzzness. It often happens, that
the bodest of the mob succeed n decoyng a bu
from the drove but I was, ths tme, fortunate
enough to see them safey odged n the Tor a
sma court dvded nto a seres of compartments
wth drop-gates, n the form of suces, nto whch
they are successvey goaded from a surroundng
gaery, and odged sngy t the tme of ettng
them ose upon the arena.
The custom of ths town requres that a bu be

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130 L TT P P0M P I .
gven to the popuace mmedatey after the shuttng-
n. The rreguar fght that ensues s perfecty ds-
gustng and shockng. The ony tme I have
wtnessed t, the area of the amphtheatre was actu-
ay crowded wth peope, both on horse and foot.
ortunatey ther numbers dstracted the anma :
on whatever sde he charged, arge masses ran
before hm, on whch he woud have made a dread-
fu havock, but for the muttude whch drew hs
attenton to another spot. et one of the crowd,
evdenty n a state of nto caton, who stood st
before the bu, was tossed up to a great heght, and
fe apparenty dead. He woud have been gored
to peces before our eyes, had not the herdsmen
and some other good fghters, drawn away the beast
wth ther coaks.
uch horrors are frequent at these rreguar
fghts yet nether the cruety of the sport, nor the
unnecessary danger to whch even the most e pert
bu-fghters e pose ther ves, nor the debauch
and profgacy attendant on such e hbtons, are
suffcent to rouse the zea of our fanatcs aganst
them. 0ur popuar preachers have succeeded
twce, wthn my recoecton, n shuttng up the
theatre. I have mysef seen a frar wth a crucf
n hs hand, stop at ts door, at the head of an
evenng processon and, durng a consderabe
part of the performance, con|ure the peope, as
they vaued ther sous, not to venture nto that
abode of sn but I never heard from these hoy
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L TT P P0M P I . 131
guardans of moras the east observaton aganst
bu-fghtng : and even our hgh-fyers n devoton
the Phppans, whom we mght ca our Me-
thodsts, aow a, e cept cergymen, to attend
these boody scenes, whe they deny absouton to
any who do not renounce the pay.
Before quttng the amphtheatre I was taken by
my frend to the gaery from whch the bus were
goaded nto ther separate stas. s t stands ony
two or three feet above ther heads, I coud not
but fee a degree of terror at such a cose vew of
these fery savage eyes, those desperate efforts to
reach the behoders, accompaned by repeated and
ferocous beowngs. There s an ntegence and
nobeness n the on that makes hm ook much
ess terrfc n hs den. I saw the Dvsa, a bunch
of rbbons ted to a barbed stee pont, stuck nto
the bus necks. It s ntended to dstngush the
breeds by dfferent combnatons of coours, whch
are stated n handbs, sod about the streets ke
your court-caendars before the asszes.
Ten s the apponted hour to begn the mornng
e hbton and such days are f ed upon as w
not, by a ong church-servce, prevent the attend-
ance of the canons and prebendares, who choose
to be present for the chapter, n a body, receve
a reguar nvtaton from the Maestranza. uch,
therefore, as have secured seats, may stay at home
ee Letter III. p. 77.
2
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132
L TT P P0M P I .
t the tong of the great be announces the ee-
vaton of the host a ceremony whch takes pace
near the concuson of the day mornng servce.
The vew of the eve amphtheatre, when fu,
s very strkng. Most peope attend n the n-
dausan dress, part of whch I have aready des-
crbed. The coour of the men s coaks, whch are
of sk, n the fne season, vares from purpe to
scaret. The short oose |ackets of the men dspay
the most vey hues, and the whte ves whch the
femaes generay wear at these meetngs, te beau-
tfuy wth the rest of ther gay attre.
The cearng of the arena, on whch a muttude
ounges t the ast moment, s part of the show,
and has the approprate appeaton of Despe|o.
Ths s performed by a battaon of nfantry. The
soders enterng at one of the gates n a coumn,
dspay ther ranks, at the sound of marta musc,
and sweep the peope before them as they march
across the ground. Ths done, the gates are cosed,
the soders perform some evoutons, n whch the
commandng offcer 3 e pected to shew hs n-
genuty, t, havng paced hs men n a con-
venent poston, they dsband n a moment, and
hde themseves behnd the fence.
The band of Toreros (bu-fghters), one haf n
bue, the other n scaret coaks, now advance n
two nes across the arena, to make obesance to
the presdent. Ther number s generay tweve
or fourteen, ncudng the two Matadores, each at-
-
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L TT P P0M P I .
133
tended by an assstant caed Medaespada (dem-
sword). Cose n ther rear foow the Pcadores
(pkemen) on horseback, wearng scaret |ackets
trmmed wth sver ace. The shape of the horse-
. men s |ackets resembes those n use among the
ngsh postboys. s a protecton to the egs and
thghs, they have strong eather overas, stuffed to
an enormous sze wth soft brown paper a sub-
stance whch s sad to offer great resstance to the
bu s horns. fter makng ther bow to the pre-
sdent, the horsemen take ther post n a ne to
the eft of the gate whch s to et n the bus,
standng n the drecton of the barrer at the ds-
tance of thrty or forty paces from each other.
The fghters on foot, wthout any weapon or means
of defence, e cept ther coaks, wat, not far from
the horses, ready to gve assstance to the pkemen.
very thng beng thus n readness, a constabe,
n the ancent pansh costume, rdes up to the
front of the prncpa gaery, and receves nto hs
hat the key of the Tor or bu s den, whch the
presdent fngs from the bacony. carcey has
the constabe devered the key under the steward s
gaery, when, at the wavng of the presdent s
handkerchef, the buges sound amd a storm of
appause, the gates are fung open, and the frst
bu rushes nto the amphtheatre. I sha descrbe
what, on the day I aude to, our connosseurs
deemed an nterestng fght, and f you magne t
repeated, wth more or ess danger and carnage,
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134
L TT P P0M P I .
eght tmes n the mornng and ten n the evenng,
you w have a pretty accurate noton of the whoe
performance.
The bu paused a moment and ooked wdy
upon the scene then, takng notce of the frst
horseman, made a desperate charge aganst hm.
The ferocous anma was receved at the pont of
the pke, whch, accordng to the aws of the
game, was amed at the feshy part of the neck.
de trous moton of the brde-hand and rght eg
made the horse evade the bu s horn, by turnng
to the eft. Made fercer by the wound, he n-
stanty attacked the ne t pkeman, whose horse,
ess obedent to the rder, was so deepy gored n
the chest that he fe dead on the spot. The m-
puse of the bu s thrust threw the rder on the
other sde of the horse. n awfu sence ensued.
The spectators, rsng from ther seats, behed n
fearfu suspense the wd bu gorng the: faen
horse, whe the man, whose ony chance of safety
depended on yng motoness, seemed dead to a
appearance. Ths panfu scene asted but a few
seconds for the men on foot, by runnng towards
the bu, n varous drectons, wavng ther coaks
and utterng oud cres, soon made hm qut the
horse to pursue them. When the danger of the
pkeman was passed, and he rose on hs egs to
vaut upon another horse, the burst.of appause
mght be heard at the farthest e tremty of the
town. Dauntess, and urged by revenge, he now
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L TT |I P0M P I .
135
gaoped forth to meet the bu. But, wthout de-
tang the shockng sghts that foowed, I sha
ony menton that the ferocous anma attacked the
horsemen ten successve tmes, wounded four horses
and ked two. 0ne of these nobe creatures,
though wounded n two paces, contnued to face
the bu wthout shrnkng, t growng too weak,
he fe down wth the rder. et these horses are
never traned for the fghts but are bought for the
amount of thrty or forty shngs, when, worn out
wth abour, or broken by dsease, they are unft
for any other servce.
foursh of the buges dscharged the horsemen
t the begnnng of the ne t combat, and the
amusement of the peope devoved on the Ban-
dereros the same whom we have htherto seen
attentve to the safety of the horsemen. The
Bandera, teray, tte fag, from whch they
take ther name, s a shaft of two feet n ength,
ponted wth a barbed stee, and gay ornamented
wth many sheets of panted paper, cut nto re-
tcuated coverngs. Wthout a coak, and hodng
one of these darts n each hand, the fghter runs
up to the bu, and stoppng short when he sees
hmsef attacked, f es the two shafts, wthout
fngng them, behnd the horns of the beast at the
very moment when t stoops to toss hm. The
panfu sensaton makes the bu throw up hs head
wthout nfctng the ntended bow, and whe he
rages n mpotent endeavours to shake off the
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13
L TT P P0M P I .
hangng darts that ga hm, the man has fu
esure to escape. It s on these occasons, when
the BanderUeros fa to f the darts, that they re-
qure ther surprsng swftness of foot. Beng
wthout the protecton of a coak, they are obged
to take nstanty to fght. The bu foows them
at fu gaop and I have seen the man eap the
barrer, so cosey pursued by the enraged brute,
that t seemed as f he had sprung up by pacng
the feet on ts head. Townsend thought t was
teray so. ome of the darts are set wth squbs
and crackers. The match, a pece of tnder, made
of a dred fungus, s so ftted to the barbed pont
that, rsng by the pressure whch makes t pe-
netrate the skn, t touches the tran of the fre-
works. The ony ob|ect of ths refnement of
cruety s, to confuse the bu s nstnctve powers,
and, by makng hm competey frantc, to dmnsh
the danger of the Matador, who s never so e -
posed as when the beast s coected enough to
medtate the attack.
t the wavng of the presdent s handkerchef,
the buges sounded the death-sgna, and the Ma-
tador came forward. Pepe o, the prde of ths
town, and certany one of the most gracefu and
de trous fghters that pan has ever produced,
havng fung off hs coak, approached the bu
wth a quck, ght, and fearess step. In hs eft
hand he hed a square pece of red coth, spread
upon a staff about two feet n ength, and n hs
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L TT P P0M P I .
137
rght, a broad sword not much onger. Hs at-
tendants foowed hm at a dstance. acng the
bu, wthn s or eght yards, he presented the
red fag, keepng hs body partay conceaed be-
hnd t, and the sword entrey out of vew. The
bu rushed aganst the red coth, and our hero
spped by hs sde by a sght crcuar moton,
whe the beast passed under the ure whch the
Matador hed n the frst drecton, t he had
evaded the horns. nraged by ths decepton, and
unchecked by any panfu sensaton, the bu co-
ected a hs strength for a desperate charge. Pepe
Io now eveed hs sword, at the eft sde of the
bu s neck, and, turnng upon hs rght foot as the
anma approached hm, ran the weapon neary up
to the ht nto ts body. The bu staggered, tot-
tered, and dropped genty upon hs bent egs but
had yet too much fe n hm for any man to ven-
ture near wth safety. The unfortunate Io has
snce pershed from a wound nfcted by a bu n
a smar state. The Matador observed, for one or
two mnutes, the sgns of approachng death n the
ferce anma now crouchng before hm, and at hs
bddng, an attendant crept behnd the bu and
struck hm dead, by drvng a sma ponard at the
|onture of the spne and the head. Ths operaton
s never performed, e cept when the prostrate bu
ngers. I once saw Io, at the desre of the
spectators, nfct ths mercfu bow n a manner
whch nothng but ocuar demonstraton woud have
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138 L TT P P0M P I .
made me beeve. Takng the ponard, caed Putv-
ta, by the bade, he posed t for a few moments,
and |erked t wth such unerrng am on the bu s
neck, as he ay on hs bent egs, that he ked the
anma wth the quckness of ghtnng.
our mues, ornamented wth arge morrce-bes
and rbbons, harnessed a-breast, and drawng a
beam furnshed wth an ron hook n the mdde,
gaoped to the pace where the bu ay. Ths
machne beng fastened to a rope prevousy thrown
round the dead anma s horns, he was swfty
dragged out of the amphtheatre.
I have now gven you a more mnute, and, I
trust, more correct descrpton of every thng con-
nected wth the bu-fghts than has ever been
drawn by any traveer. Townsend s s the best
account of these sports I ever met wth yet t s
not free from mstakes. o dffcut s t to see ds-
tncty, scenes wth whch we are not famary ac-
quanted.
The rsk of the fghters s great, and ther de te-
rty aone prevents ts beng mmnent. The ves
most e posed are those of the Matadores and few
of them have retred n tme to avod a tragca end.
Bu fghters rse from the dregs of the peope.
Lke most of ther equas, they unte superstton
and profgacy n ther character. one of them
w venture upon the arena wthout a scapuary,
two sma square peces of coth suspended by
rbbons, on the breast and back, between the shrt
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L TT P P0M P I .
13
and the wastcoat. In the front square there s a
prnt, on nen, of the rgn Mary generay, the
Carrne Mary, who s the patron goddess of a the
rogues and vagabonds n pan. These scapuares
are bessed, and sod by the Carmete rars. 0ur
great |kfatador, Pepe Io, besdes the usua amuet,
trusted for safety to the patronage of t. |oseph,
whose chape ad|ons the eve amphtheatre.
The doors of ths chape were, durng Io s fe,
thrown open as ong as the fght contnued, the
mage of the ant beng a that tme encrced by
a great number of ghted wa -candes, whch the
devout gadator provded at hs own e pense. The
ant, however, unmndfu of ths homage, aowed
hs cent often to be wounded, and fnay eft hm
to hs fate at Madrd.
To en|oy the spectace I have descrbed, the fee-
ngs must be greaty perverted yet that degree of
perverson s very easy accompshed. The dspay
of courage and address whch s made at these e h-
btons, and the contagous nature of a emotons n
numerous assembes, are more than suffcent to
bunt, n a short tme, the natura dsgust arsng
from the frst vew of bood and saughter. If we
consder that even the estas at Pome were pas-
sonatey fond of gadatora shows, we sha not be
surprsed at the pansh taste for sports whch, wth
nfnte ess waste of human fe, can gve rse to the
strongest emotons.
The foowng nstance, wth whch I sha con-
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140
L TT P P0M P I .
eude, w shew you to what degree the passon for
bu-fghts can grow. genteman of my ac-
quantance had some years ago the msfortune to
ose hs sght. It mght be supposed, that a bnd
man woud avod the scene of hs former en|oyment
a scene where every thng s addressed to the eye.
Ths genteman, however, s a constant attendant at
the amphtheatre. Mornng and evenng he takes
hs pace wth the Maestranza, of whch he s a
member, havng hs gude by hs sde. Upon the
appearance of every bu, he greedy stens to the
descrpton of the anma, and of a that takes pace
n the fght. Hs menta concepton of the e hb-
ton, aded by the we known cres of the mut-
tude, s so vvd, that when a burst of appause
aows hs attendant |ust to hnt at the event that
drew t from the spectators, the unfortunate man s
face geams wth peasure, and he echoes the ast
cappngs of the crcus.
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L TT P P0M P I .
141
L TT P .
eve, 1801.
The caamty whch has affcted ths town and
swept away eghteen thousand of ts nhabtants,
w more than suffcenty account for my ong
sence. But, durng the nterrupton of my cor-
respondence, there s a former perod for whch I
owe you a more detaed e panaton.
My traves n pan have htherto been as mted
as s used among my countrymen. The e pense,
the danger, and the great nconvenence attendng
a |ourney, prevent our traveng for peasure or
curosty. Most of our peope spend ther whoe
ves wthn ther provnce, and few among the
femaes have ever ost sght of the town that gave
them brth. I have, however, brought home some
of your ngsh restessness and, as my dear frend,
the young cergyman, whose account of hmsef
The yeow fever n 1800.
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142
L TT P P0M P I .
s aready n your hands, had to vst a very pecu-
ar spot of ndausa, I |oned hm most wngy
n hs e curson, durng whch I coected a few
trats of our natona manners, wth a vew to add
one more to my precedng sketches.
My frend s destnaton was a town n the moun-
tans or erra de Ponda, caed 0bera, or 0vera,
for we make no dfference n the pronuncaton of
the b and the young man of that town had
been eected to a feowshp of ths Coego Mayor
and my frend, who s a member of that body, was
the apponted commssoner for coectng the
pruebas, or evdence, whch, accordng to the sta-
tutes, must be taken at the brth-pace of the can-
ddate, concernng the purty of hs bood and
famy conne ons. The badness of the roads, n
that drecton, nduced us to make the whoe |our-
ney on horseback. We were provded wth the
coarse dress whch country gentemen wear on
smar occasons a short oose |acket and sma-
cothes of brown serge thck eather gaters a
coak ted up n a ro on the pomme of the sadde
and a stout spencer, ornamented wth a knd of
patchwork ace, made of peces of varous coours,
whch s a favourte rdng-dress of our ndausan
beau . ach of us, as we as the servant, whose
horse carred our ght uggage, was armed wth a
musket, hangng by a hook, on a rng, whch a
traveng-saddes are furnshed wth for that pur--
pose. Ths manner of traveng s, upon the
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L TT P P0M P I .
whoe, the most peasant n ndausa. Pobbers
sedom attack peope on horseback, provded they
take care, as we dd, never to pass any wooded
ground wthout separatng to the dstance of a mas-
ket-shot from each other.
My feow-traveer took ths opportunty to pay
a vst to some of hs acquantance at 0suna, a town
of consderabe weath, wth a numerous nobesse,
a coegate church, and a unversty. t the end
of our frst days |ourney we stopped at a pretty
popuous vage caed raha. The nn, though
far from comfortabe, n the ngsh sense of the
word, was not one of the worst we were doomed to
endure n our tour, for traveers were not here
obged to starve f they had not brought ther own
provsons and we had a room wth a few broken
chars, a dea tabe and two fock beds, ad upon
panks rased from the brck-foor by ron tresses.
dsh of ham and eggs afforded us an agreeabe
and substanta dnner, and a botte of cheap, but
by no means unpeasant wne, made us forget the
|og-trot of our day s |ourney.
We had |ust fet the approach of that pecuar
knd of ennu whch urks n every corner of an nn,
when the sound of a ffe and drum, wth more of
the sportng and mrthfu than of the mtary cha-
racter, awakened our curosty. But to ask a ques-
ton, even at the best pansh fonda (hote), you
must ether e ert your ungs, cang the water,
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144
L TT P P0M P I .
chambermad, and andord, n successon, to mu-
tpy the chances of fndng one dsposed to hear
you or adopt the more quet method of searchng
them through the house, begnnng at the ktchen.
Here, however, we had ony to step out of our
room and we found ourseves wthn the cook s do-
mnons. The best country nns, ndeed, consst
of a arge ha contguous to the street or road, and
paved ke the former wth round stones. t one
end of ths ha there s a arge hearth, rased about
a foot from the ground. wood-fre s constanty
burnng upon t, and traveers of a ranks and
degrees, who do not prefer mopng n ther cod,
ungazed rooms, are gad to take a seat near t,
where they en|oy, grats, the wt and humour of
carrers, coachmen, and cowns, and a cose vew
of the hostess or her mad, dressng successvey n
the same fryng pan, now an omeet of eggs and
onons, now a dsh of dred fsh wth o and ove-
appes, or t may be the mbs of a tough fow
whch but a few moments before had been struttng
about the house. The doors of the bed-rooms, as
we as that of the stabe-yard, a open nto the
ha. Leavng a suffcent space for carrages and
horses to cross from the front door to the stabes,
the pansh carrers, or harreros, who trave n
partes of twenty or thrty men and doube that
number of mues, range themseves at nght aong
the was, each upon hs arge packsadde, wth no
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L TT P P0M r I .
145
other coverng but a knd of horse-coth, caed
manta, whch they use on the road to keep them
dry and warm n wnter.
Into ths truy common-ha were we brought by
the sound of the drum, and soon earned from one
of the oungers who sauntered about t, that a
company of strong-payers were n a short tme
to begn ther performance. Ths was good news
ndeed for us, who, unwng to go eary to bed
wth a certanty of not beng aowed to seep,
dreaded the cose of approachng nght. The per-
formance, we were tod, was to take pace n an
open court, where a cow-house, open n front,
afforded a convenent stuaton both for the stage
and the dressng-room of the actors. Havng each
of us pad the amount of a penny and a fracton,
we took our seats under a brght starry sky, muffed
up n our coaks, and perfecty unmndfu of the
danger whch mght arse from the e treme arness -
of the theatre. horrbe screamng fdde, a
grumbng voonceo, and a deafenng rench-
horn, composed the band. The drop-curtan con-
ssted of four counterpanes sewed together and
the scenes, whch were red gambroon curtans,
hangng oose from a frame, and fappng n the
wnd, et us nto the secrets of the dressng-room,
where the actors, unabe to afford a dfferent person
for every character, mutped themseves by the
assstance of the taor.
The pay was Dabo Predcador The Dev
L
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14
L TT P P0M P I .
turned Preacher one of the numerous dramatc
compostons pubshed anonymousy durng the
atter part of the ustran dynasty. The character
of ths comedy s so snguar, and so much of the
pubc mnd may be earned from ts popuarty a
over the country, that I w gve you an abstract
of the pot.
The hero of the pay, desgnated n the Dramats
Persona by the tte of prmer gaan (frst gaant),
s Lucfer, who, dressed n a sut of back vevet
and scaret stockngs the approprate stage-dress
of devs, of whatever rank and staton appears
n the frst scene mounted upon a grffn, summon-
ng hs confdant smodeus out of a trap, to ac-
quant hm wth the danger to whch the newy-
estabshed order of ant rancs e posed the
whoe kngdom of darkness. Itay (accordng to
the arch-demon) was overrun wth mendcant
frars and even Ltcca, the scene of the pay,
where they had met wth a sturdy opposton,
mght, he feared, consent to the budng of a
rancscan convent, the foundatons of whch were
aready ad. Lucfer, therefore, determnes to as-
sst the Lucchese n dsodgng the cowed enemes
from that town and he sends smodeus to pan
upon a smar servce. The chef engne he puts
n moton s Ludovco, a weathy and hard-hearted
man, who had |ust marred 0ctava, a paragon of
vrtue and beauty, thus cruey sacrfced by her
father s ambton. ecano, a cousn of 0ctava,
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L TT P P0M P I . 147
and the ob|ect of her eary affecton, avang hm-
sef of the husband s gnorance of ther now-broken
engagement, makes hs appearance at Lucca wth
the determnaton of seducng the brde and takng
revenge on Ludovco. The Guardan of the new
convent of ant rancs, beng obged by the rue
of hs order to support the frars by day ams
coected from the peope, and rndng the nha-
btants of Lucca determned to starve them out of
ther cty, appes to Ludovco for hep. That
wcked man thrusts the Guardan and hs ay-bro-
ther nton the gracoso of the pay out of the
house, to be hooted and peted by the mob. o-
thng, therefore, s eft for the frars but to qut the
town : and now, the poet consderng Horace s rue
for supernatura nterference as perfecty appcabe
to such a desperate state of thngs, the no Dos
(the Chd God), and Mchae the archange, come
down n a coud (you w ready conceve that the
actors at our humbe theatre dspensed wth the
machnery), and the ast, addressng hmsef to
Lucfer, gves hm a peremptory order to assume
the habt of ant rancs, and under that dsguse
to stop a the mschef he had devsed aganst 0c-
tava to obtan support from the peope of Lucca
for the rancscans and not to depart t he had
but two convents nstead of the one he was tryng
-to np n the bud.
ee ote .
L 2
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148
L TT P P0M P I .
To gve, as you say n ngand, the Dev hs
due, t must be confessed, that Lucfer, though
now and then e camng aganst the severty of hs
punshment, e ecutes hs commsson wth e em-
pary zea. He presents hmsef to the Guardan,
n the garb of the order, and havng Brother n-
ton apponted as hs attendant, soon changes the
hearts of the peope, and obtans abundant suppes
for the convent. The under-pot proceeds n the
mean tme, nvovng 0ctava n the most mmnent
dangers. he snatches from ecano a etter, n
whch she had formery avowed her ove to hm,
whch, mperfecty torn to peces, fas nto Lu-
dovco s hands, and nduces hm to pan her death.
To accompsh ths purpose, he takes her nto the
country, and stabs her n the depth of a forest, a
few mnutes before Monk Lucfer, who fary and
honesty had ntended to prevent the bow, coud
arrve at the pace wth hs ay-companon.
To be thus taken by surprse puzzes the e -
archange not a tte. t he observes, that snce
0ctava s sou had nether gone to heaven, pur-
gatory, nor he, a mrace was on the pont of
beng performed. or was he deceved n ths
shrewd con|ecture for the rgn Mary descends
n a coud, and touchng the body of 0ctava,
restores her to fe. ecano arrvng at ths mo-
ment, attrbutes the mrace to the two frars and
the report of ths wonder e poses nton to a u-
dcrous mobbng n the town, where hs frock s
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L TT P P0M P I .
14
torn to peces to keep the shreds as recs. Lucfer
now endeavours to prove to the resusctated wfe,
that, accordng to the canon aw, her marrage has
been dssoved by death but she, dstrustng the
casustry of that earned personage, mmedatey
returns to her husband. Her unwng protector
s therefore compeed to prevent a second death,
whch the desperate Ludovco ntends to nfct
upon hs too fathfu wfe. fter ths second rescue
of the beautfu 0ctava, Lucfer makes a most
edfyng address, urgng Ludovco to redeem hs
sns, by gvng ams to the rancscans. Hs eo-
quence, however, makng no mpresson upon the
mser, ant Mchae gves the word from behnd
the scenes, and the obdurate man s swaowed up
by the earth. Mchae now makes hs appearance
and, upon a very sensbe remonstance of Lucfer,
as to the hardshp of hs present case, he aows
the atter to strp off the cow, and carry on hos-
ttes aganst the rancscans by the usua arts
he empoys aganst the other regous orders, .e.
assautng the monks vrtue by any means e cept
ther stomachs. ood the rancscans must never
want, accordng to the heaveny promse made to
ther founder.
Ths curous pay s performed, at east once a
year, on every pansh theatre when the ran-
cscan frars, nstead of enforcng the standng rue,
whch forbds the e hbton of the monksh dress
upon the stage, reguary end the requste suts to
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1.50
L TT P P0M P I .
the actors : so favourabe s the mpresson t eaves
n favour of that mendcant order.
0ur truy Thespan entertanment was |ust con-
cuded, when we heard the church-be to what
n pan s caed Las nhnas the ous. man,
bearng a arge antern wth a panted gass, re-
presentng two naked persons enveoped n fames,
entered the court, addressng every one of the
company n these words : The Hoy ous, Bro-
ther Pemember the Hoy ous. ew refused the
pettoner a copper con, worth about the eghth
part of a penny. Ths custom s unversa n pan.
man, whose chef empoyment s to be agent for
the sous n purgatory, n the evenng the ony
tme when the nvsbe sufferers are begged for
about the towns and for some sant or Madonna,
durng the day, parades the streets after sunset,
wth the antern I have descrbed, and never fas
to vst the nns, where the traveers, who ge-
neray entrust ther safety from robbers to the
hoy sous, are aways ready to make some pe-
cunary acknowdegement for past favours, or to
engage ther protecton n future dangers. The
tenderness of a sorts of beevng panards for the
sous n purgatory, and the reance they pace on
ther ntercesson wth God, woud amost be af-
fectng, dd t not orgnate n the most supersttous
creduty.
The doctrne of purgatory s very easy, nay,
consstenty embraced by such as beeve n the
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L TT P P0M P I .
151
e patory nature of pan and sufferng. The best
feengs of our hearts are, besdes, most ready to
assst the magnaton n devsng means to keep up
an ntercourse wth that nvsbe word, whch
ether possesses aready, or must soon possess,
whatever has engaged our affectons n ths. Gref
for a departed frend oses haf ts btterness wth a
Cathoc who can frmy beeve that not a day sha
pass wthout repeated and effectua proofs of at-
tachment, on hs part, t he |on the conscous ob-
|ect of hs ove n bss. Whe other artces of
the Cathoc fath are too refned and abstract for
chdren, ther tender and benevoent mnds eagery
seze on the dea of purgatory fre. parent or a
brother, st knd to them n another word, yet
sufferng e crucatng pans that may be reeved,
shortened, and perhaps put an end to by some
prvaton or prayer, are notons perfecty adapted
to ther capacty and feengs. very year brngs
round the day devoted by the church to the reef
of the departed sous. The hoy vestments used
at the three masses, whch, by a speca grant,
every prest s aowed to perform that mornng,
are back. Large candes of yeow wa are paced
over the graves wthn the churches and even the
church-yards, those humbe paces of repose ap-
ponted among us for crmnas and paupers, are
not negected on that day of revved sorrows.
Lght are provded for them at the e pense of the
socety estabshed n every town of pan for the
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152
L TT P P0M P I .
reef of the frendess sprts, who, for want of
assstance, may be ngerng n the purfyng names
and many of the members, wth a prest at ther
head, vst these cemeteres for nne successve
evenngs.
Thus, even benevoence, under the gudance of
superstton, degenerates nto absurdty. It does
not, however, stop here but, rushng headong
nto the udcrous, forces a sme upon the face of
sympathy, and panfuy compes our mrth where
our tears were ready to fow. The regous n-
genuty of the Cathocs has gone so far as to pub-
sh the scheme of a ottery for the beneft of such
sous as mght otherwse escape ther notce. It
conssts of a arge sheet of paper f ed n a frame,
wth an open bo beneath t. Under dfferent
heads, numbered from one to nnety, the nventor
of ths pous game has dstrbuted the most n-
terestng cases whch can occur n the debtors sde
of the nferna ewgate, aottng to each a prayer,
penance or offerng. In the bo are deposted
nnety peces of card, dstngushed by numbers
correspondng to the nnety casses. ccordng as
the pous gamber draws the tckets, he performs
the mertorous works en|oned n the scheme
generay a short prayer or sght penance trans-
ferrng ther sprtua vaue to the fortunate sous
to whom each card beongs. 0ften n my chd-
hood, have I amused mysef at ths good-natured
game. But the Inquston s growng fastdous
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L TT P P0M P I . 153
and though the ottery of purgatory s as fary
grounded on the doctrnes of Pome, as the papa
bus for the reease of sufferng sous, whch are
sod for s pence, wth a bank for nsertng the
name of the person n whose behaf t s purchased
the nqustors, t seems, w not aow the bera-
ton of the departed to become a matter of chance,
and the ottery scheme has atey been prohbted.
ortunatey, we st have varous means of assst-
ng our frends n Hades for, besdes masses,
Bus, prayers, and penances, the Pope has esta-
bshed eght or ten days n the year, on whch
every panard (for the grant s confned to pan)
by kneeng at fve dfferent atars, and there pray-
ng for the e trpaton of heresy, s entted to send
a speces of habeas anmam wrt to any of hs frends
n purgatory. The name of the person whose
beraton s ntended shoud, for fear of mstakes,
be mentoned n the prayers. But, est the order
of reease shoud fnd hm aready free, or perhaps
wthn those gates to whch no Pope has ever ven-
tured to appy hs keys, we are taught to endorse
the sprtua b wth other names, addressng t
fnay to the most worthy and dsconsoate.
These prveged days are announced to the
pubc by a prnted notce, paced over the bason
of hoy water, whch stands near every church-
door and, as no one enters wthout wettng hs
forehead wth the bessed fud, there s no fear
that the happy season shoud pass unheeded by
0
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154
L TT P P0M P I .
the pous. The words wrtten on the tabet are
pan and peremptory: Hoy se saca mno- te-
ray, Ths s a sou-drawng day. We must,
however, proceed on our unnterrupted |ourney.
0suna, where we arrved on the second day after
eavng eve, s but on the decvty of one of
the detached hs whch stand as out-posts to the
erra de Ponda, havng n front a arge -cut-
vated pan, from whence the prncpa church,
and the coege, to whch the unversty of that
town s attached, are seen to great advantage. The
great square of the town s neary surrounded by
an arcade or pazza, wth bacones above t, and s
s atogether not unke a arge theatre. uch
squares are to be found n every arge town of
pan, and seem to have been ntended for the e h-
bton of tournaments and a knd of bu-fghts, ess
ferce and boody than those of the amphtheatre,
whch bear the name of regoc|os (re|ocngs.)
The ne of dstncton between the nobesse and
the unprveged cass beng here drawn wth the
greatest precson, there cannot be a more dsagree-
abe pace for such as are, by educaton, above the
ower ranks, yet have the msfortune of a pebean
brth. n honest respectabe abourer wthout
ambton, yet wth a conscous dgnty of mnd not
uncommon among the pansh peasantry, may, n
ths respect, we be an ob|ect of envy to many of
hs betters. Gentemen treat them wth a ess
haughty and dstant ar than s used n ngand to-

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L TT P P0M P I .
155
wards nferors and dependents. rabaddn (chef
shepherd), or an aperador (steward), s aways n-
duged wth a seat when speakng on busness wth
hs master, and men of the frst dstncton w
have a knd word for every peasant, when rdng
about the country. et they w e cude from
ther cub and bard tabe a we-educated man,
because, forsooth, he has no ega tte to a Don
before hs name.
Ths town, though one of the thrd order, sup-
ports three convents of frars and two of nuns.
genteman of ths pace who, beng a cergyman,
en|oys a hgh reputaton as a sprtua drector,
ntroduced us to some of the ades at the nun-
neres. By ths means I became acquanted wth
two very remarkabe characters a worker of mra-
ces, and a nun n despar (mon|a desesperada). The
frst was an edery woman, whose countenance
and manners betrayed no symptoms of menta
weakness , and whom, from a I was abe to earn,
t woud be dffcut to cass ether wth the de-
cevng or deceved. The frm persuason of her
companons that she s sometmes the ob|ect, some-
tmes the nstrument of supernatura operatons,
nspres them wth a respect borderng upon awe.
It woud be tedous to reate the aeged nstances
of her pryng nto futurty, and searchng the re-
cesses of the heart. Peports ke these are ndeed
easy rased and propagated : but I sha brefy
reate one, whch shows how stores of ths knd
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15
L TT P P0M P I .
may get abroad through the most respectabe
channes, and form a chan of evdence whch n-
genuty cannot trace up to nvountary error, and
candour woud not attrbute to deberate fase-
hood.
The communty of the Descazas (unshod nuns)
had more than once been thrown nto great conster-
naton on seeng ther proress for to that offce
had her sanctty rased the sub|ect of my story
reduced, for many days together, to absoute abst-
nence from food and drnk. Though prostrate, and
wth hardy any power of moton, she was n fu
possesson of her speech and facutes. Dr. Carnero,
a physcan we known n these parts for sk and
persona respectabty, attended the patent, for
though t was frmy beeved by the nuns that
human art coud not reach the dsease, t s but
|ustce to say, that no attempts were vsbe to gve
t a supernatura character among strangers. The
doctor, who seems to have at frst consdered
the case as a nervous affecton, wshed to try the
effect of a decded effort of the patent under
the nfuence of hs presence and authorty for
among nuns the physcan s ne t n nfuence to
the professor. Havng therefore sent for a gass of
water, and desrng the attendants to boster up the
proress nto a sttng posture, he put t nto her
hand, wth a peremptory n|uncton to do her
utmost to drnk. The unresstng nun put the
water to her ps, and stopped. The physcan
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L TT P P0M P I .
157
was urgng her to proceed, when to hs great amaze-
ment he found the contents of the gass reduced to
one ump of ce. We had the account of ths
wonder from the cergyman who ntroduced us to
the nun. 0f hs veracty I can entertan no doubt:
whe he, on the other hand, was equay confdent
of Dr. Carnero s.
0ur vst to the other convent made me ac-
quanted wth one of the most ptabe ob|ects ever
produced by superstton a reuctant nun. 0f
the actua e stence of such mserabe bengs one
sedom hears n pan. sense of decorum, and
the utter hopeessness of reef, keep the btter re-
grets of many an mprsoned femae a profound
secret to a but ther confessor. In the present
case, however, the vehemence of the sufferer s fee-
ngs had ad open to the word the state of her
harassed mnd. he was a good-ookng woman,
of tte more than thrty: but the contrast be-
tween the monastc weeds, and an ndescrbabe
ar of wantonness whch, n spte of a cauton,
marked her every gance and moton, rased a
m ed feeng of dsgust and pty, that made us un-
comfortabe durng the whoe vst. We had, never-
theess, to stay t the customary refreshments of
preserves, cakes, and chocoate were served from
wthn the doube grate that dvded us from the
nhabtants of the convent. Ths s done by
means of a semcrcuar wooden frame whch fs
up an openng n the wa: the frame turns upon
ts centre, presentng aternatey ts concave and ts
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158
L TT P P0M P I .
conve sde. The refreshments beng paced wth-
n the hoow part, a sght mpuse of the hand paces
them wthn reach of the vstors. Ths machne
takes the name of torno, from ts rotatory moton.
But I must eave the convents for a future etter.
fter a few days not unpeasanty spent at 0suna,
we proceeded to 0bera. The roads through a
the branches of the erra de Ponda, though often
wd and romantc, are generay e ecrabe. ms-
take of our servant had carred us wthn two mes
of a vage caed Pruna, when we were overtaken
by a tremendous storm of ha and thunder. Pan
succeeded n torrents, and forced us to gve up a
dea of reachng our destnaton that evenng. We,
consequenty, made for the vage, an ous to dry
our cothes, whch were perfecty wet through
but so wretched was the nn, that t had not a room
where we coud retre to undress. In ths awkward
stuaton, my frend as a cergyman, thought of ap-
pyng to the vcar, who, upon earnng hs name,
very cvy receved us n hs house. The dress of
ths worthy prest, a handsome man of about forty,
shewed that he was at east as fond of hs gun and
ponter, as of hs mssa. He had a tte of the
swaggerng manner of ndausa, but t was softened
by a frankness and a genteman-ke ar, whch we
tte e pected n a retred pansh vcar. The fact
s, that the vngs beng poor, none but the sons of
tradesmen or peasants have, t very atey, entered
the church, wthout we-grounded hopes of obtan-
ng at once a pace among the dgnfed cergy.
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L TT P P0M P I . 15
But I shoud rather say that the rea vcars are
e empted from the care of a parsh, and, under the
the name of benefcados, receve the tthes, and
spend them how and where they pease. The no-
mnaton of curates beongs to the bshops some of
whom, much to the credt of the pansh preacy,
have of ate contrved to rase ther ncome, and
thereby nduced a few young men, who, not ong
ago woud have dsdaned the offce, to take a
parsh under ther care. The superorty, however,
whch was vsbe n our host, arose from hs beng
what s known by the name of cura y benefcado, or
havng a church, of whch, as s sometmes the case,
the ncumbency s nseparabe from the curacy. He
was far above hs neghbours n weath and conse-
quence and beng fond of fed sports and freedom,
he preferred the wd spot where he had been born,
to a more spendd staton n a pansh cathedra.
The prncpa, or rather the most frequented,
room n the vcar s house was, as usua, the ktchen
or great ha at the entrance. we-ookng
woman, about fve and thrty, wth a very pretty
daughter of ffteen, and a peasant-gr to do the
drudgery of the house, formed the canonca
estabshment of ths happy son of t. Peter.
To scrutnze the reaton n whch these ades
stood to the prest, the aws of hosptaty woud
forbd whe to consder them as mere servants,
we shrewdy guessed, woud have hurt the feengs
of the vcar. Havng therefore, wth becomng
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1 0
L TT P P0M P I .
gaantry, wound ourseves nto ther good graces,
we found no dffcuty, when supper was served
up, n makng them take ther occustomed paces,
whch, under some pretence, they now seemed
prepared to decne.
0ur hearty mea ended, the acade, the escrbano
(attorney), and three or four of the more substanta
farmers, dropped n to ther nghty tertua. s
the vcar saw no professona squeamshness n my
reverend companon, he had no hestaton to ac-
quant us wth the estabshed custom of the house,
whch was to pay at faro t bed-tme and we
|oned the party. green gazed earthen |ar,
hodng a quart of brandy, favoured wth anse,
was paced at the foot of the vcar, and a gass be-
fore each of the company. The nhabtants of the
erra de Ponda are fond of sprts, and many e -
ceptons to the genera abstemousness of the
panards are found among them. But we dd not
observe any e cess n our party. Probaby the n-
fuence of the cergyman, and the presence of stran-
gers kept a wthn the strctest rues of decorum.
e t mornng, after takng a cup of chocoate, and
corday thankng our knd host, we took horse
for 0bera.
ome mes from that vage, we passed one of
the e tensve woods of e , whch are found n
many parts of pan. In summer, the beauty of
these forests s very great. Wd fowers of a
knds, myrtes, honeysuckes, cystus, c. grow n
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L TT P P0M P I .
1 1
the greatest profuson, and ornament a scene douby
decous from the coo shade whch succeeds to the
gare of open and desoate pans, under a burnng
sun. Dd not the monumenta crosses, erected on
every spot where a traveer has faen by the hands
of robbers, brng goomy deas to the mnd, and
keep the eye watchng every turn, and scourng
every thcket, wthout aowng t to repose on the
beautes that court t on a sdes pan woud af-
ford many a peasant and romantc tour. Wd boars,
and deer, and a few woves, are found n these forests.
Brds of a knds, hawks, ktes, vutures, storks,
cranes, and bustards, are e ceedngy numerous n
most parts of the country. Game, especay rabbts,
s so abundant n these mountans, that many peope
ve by shootng and though the number of dogs and
ferrets probaby e ceeds that of houses n every
vage, I heard many compants of annua depre-
datons on the crops.
We had traversed some mes of dreary rocky
ground, wthout a tree, and hardy any verdure to
soften ts aspect, when from a deep vaey, formed
by two barren mountans, we dscovered 0bera, on
the top of a thrd, hgher than the rest, and more
rugged and steep than any we had htherto passed
Both the approach and vew of the town were so
perfecty n character wth what we knew of the n-
habtants, that the dea of spendng a week on that
spot became goomy and uncomfortabe at that
m oment.
M
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1 2 L TT P P0M P I .
The rustc and amost savage manners of the
nobesse of 0bera are unparaeed n ndausa.
Both gentemen and peasants cam a wd ndepen-
dence, a berty of msrue for ther town, the e st-
ence of whch betrays the rea weakness whch
never fas to attend despotsm. n ndausan
proverb desres you to your man and fy to
0bera Mata a hombre y vete a 0bera. re-
markabe nstance of the mpunty wth whch
murder s commtted n that town occurred two
years before our vst. The aguac mayor, a aw-
offcer of the frst rank, was shot dead by an un-
known hand, when retrng to hs house from an
evenng tertua. He had offended the chef of a
party for they have here ther Capuets and
Montagues, though I coud never dscover a |uet
who was known to have formery dspatched an-
other man n a smar way and no doubt e sted n
the town, that Lobo had ether ked the aguac,
or pad the assassn. The e pectaton, however, of
hs acqutta was as genera as the beef of hs gut.
To the usua datorness of the |udca forms of the
country, to the corrupton of the scrveners or nota-
res who, n takng down, most artfuy ater the
wrtten evdence upon whch the |udges ground
ther decson, was added the terror of Lobo s
name and party, whose vengeance was dreaded by
the wtnesses. We now found hm at the hght of
hs power and he was one of the persons e amned
n evdence of the nobe brth and famy honours of
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L TT P P0M P I . 10.3
the canddate n whose behaf my frend had receved
the commsson of hs coege. Lobo s a man
between ffty and s ty, wth a countenance on
whch every ev passon s marked n ndebe
characters. He was, n earer fe, renowned for
hs forwardness n the savage rotng whch to ths
day forms the chef amusement of the youth of ths
town. The fact s, that the constant use of sprts
keeps many of them n a state of habtua nto ca-
ton. 0ne cannot cross the threshod of a house at
0bera wthout beng presented wth a gass of
brandy, whch t woud be an affront to refuse.
The e pots performed at ther drnkng-bouts
consttute the tradtona chronce of the town,
and are recounted wth great gee by young and
od. The dea of mrth s assocated by the fashon-
abes of 0bera wth a rudeness that often dege-
nerates nto downrght barbarty. The sports of
the fed are generay termnated by a supper at
one of the cort|os, or farm-houses of the gentry,
where the gracoso or wt of the company, s e -
pected to promote some practca |oke when ms-
chef s rfe among the guests. The word cuebra,
for nstance, s the sgna for puttng out the ghts,
and ayng about wth the frst thng that comes to
hand, as f tryng to k the snake, whch s the
pretended cause of the aarm. The stomachs of
the party are, on other occasons, tred wth a raw
hare or kd, of whch no one dares refuse to eat hs
share : and t s by no means uncommon to pro-
m 2
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1 4
L TT P P0M P I .
pose the aternatve of osng a tooth, or payng
a fne.
The reatons of the young man whose pedgree
was to be e amned by my frend, made t a pont
to entertan us, by rotaton, every nght wth a
dance. t these partes there was no musc but a
gutar, and some mae and femae voces. Two or
four coupes stood up for segudas, a natona
dance, not unke the fandango, whch was, not
ong snce, modfed nto the boero, by a dancng-
master of that name, a natve of the provnce of
Murca, from whch t was orgnay caed e-
gudas Murcanas. The dancers, rattng ther
castanets, move at the sound of a snge voce,
whch sngs coupets of four verses, wth a burthen
of three, accompaned by musca chords that,
combnng the s strngs of the gutar nto har-
mony, are ncessanty struck wth the nas of the
rght hand. The sngers reeve each other, every
one usng dfferent words to the same tune. The
sub|ect of these popuar compostons, of whch a
copous, though not very eegant coecton s pre-
served n the memory of the ower casses, s ove
and they are generay approprate to the se of the
sngers.
The umnaton of the room conssted of a
cand a rude amp of cast-ron, hung up by a
hook on an uprght pece of wood f ed on a three-
footed stoo, the whoe of pan dea. ome of the
ades wore ther mantas crossed upon the chn so
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L TT P P0M P I .
1 5
as to concea ther features. woman n ths garb
s caed tapada and the practce of that dsguse,
whch was very common under the ustran dy-
nasty, s st preserved by a few femaes n some of
our country-towns. I have seen them at 0suna
and raha, covered from head to foot wth a
back wooen ve fang on both sdes of the face,
and crossed so cosey before t that nothng coud
be perceved but the geamng of the rght eye
paced |ust behnd the aperture. 0ur od dramatc
wrters found n the tapadas an ne haustbe re-
source for ther pots. s the aws of honour pro-
tected a veed ady from the ntrusons of curosty,
|eaousy was thus perpetuay mocked by the very
ob|ects that were the man source of ts aarms.
My ntroducton, at the frst evenng-party, to
one of the ades of 0bera, w gve you an dea
of the etquette of that town. young genteman,
the acknowedged gracoso of the upper ranks, a
character whch n those parts must unte that of
frst buy to support t had from the day of our
arrva taken us under hs patronage, and engaged
to do for us the honours of the pace. Hs ony
fauts were, drnkng ke a fsh, and beng as
quarresome as a bu-dog au reste, he was a knd-
hearted sou, and woud serve a frend- the whoe
ength of the broad-sword, whch, accordng to the
good od fashon, he constanty carred under the
eft arm, conceaed by the arge fodngs of hs
coak. t the dances, he was master of the ce-
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1
L TT P P0M P I .
remones, and, as such, -he ntroduced us to the
company. We had not yet seated ourseves, when
Don |uan de a Posa such was our patron s name
surprsed me wth the queston, whch of the
present ades I preferred to st by. Thnkng t
was a |est, I made a sutabe answer but I soon
found he was serous. s t was not for me to n-
novate, or break through the audabe customs of
0bera, no other cause remaned for hestaton but
the dffcuty of the choce. Dffcut t was n-
deed not, however from the baanced nfuence of
contendng beauty, but the formdabe host of
ether coy or grnnng faces, whch neary fed
one sde of the room. To take my post by one of
the rustc nymphs, and thus engage to keep up a
reguar frtaton for the evenng, was more, I con-
fess, than my courage aowed me. Peversng,
therefore, the ma m whch attrbutes ncreased
horrors to thngs unknown, I begged to be ntro-
duced to a tapada who sat n a corner, provded a
young man of the town, who was at that moment
speakng wth her, had not a paramount cam to
the pace. The word was scarcey spoken, when
my frend, Don |uan, advanced wth a bod step,
and, addressng hs townsman wth the berty of
an estabshed gracoso, decared t was not ft for
a cown to take that pace, nstead of the stranger.
The young man, who happened to be a near rea-
ton of the ady, gave up hs char very good-
humouredy, and I was gad to fnd that the ar-
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L TT P P0M P I .
1 7
ness and superor eegance of shape, whch ed me
to the choce, had drected me to a gentewoman.
My veed takng partner was hghy amused I
w not say fattered wth what she chose to ca
my bunder, and, pretendng to be od and ugy,
brought nto fu pay a my pansh gaantry.
The evenng was passed ess heavy than I dread-
ed and durng our stay at 0bera we gave a de-
cded preference to the ady of whom I had, thus
strangey, decared mysef the corte|o pro tempore. . - .
he was a natve of Maaga, whom her husband,
an offcer on haf-pay, had nduced to resde n hs
natve town, whch she most corday detested.
Perhaps you wsh to know the reason of her ds-
guse at the dance. Moved by a smar curosty,
I ventured to make the nqury, when I earned
that, for want of tme to dress, she had avaed
hersef of the custom of the country, whch makes
the manta a speces of dshabe ft for an evenng
party.
In the ntervas of the dance we were sometmes
treated wth dramatc scenes, of whch the da-
ogue s composed on the spot by the actors. Ths
amusement s not uncommon n country-towns. It
s known by the name of |uegos a word teray
answerng to pays. The actors are n the habt of
performng together, and consequenty do not fnd
t dffcut to go through ther parts wthout much
hestaton. Men n women s cothes act the femae
characters. The truth s, that far from beng sur-
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1 8
L TT P P0M P I .
prsed at the backwardness of the ades to |on
actvey n the amusement, the wt and humour of
the |uegos s such, that one ony wonders how
any modest woman can be present at the per-
formance.
0ne nght the dance was nterrupted by the
hoarse voce of our worthy frend Don |uan, who
happened to be n the ktchen on a vst to a fa-
vourte |ar of brandy. The ades, though pos-
sessed of strong nerves, shewed evdent symptoms
of aarm and we a hurred out of the room,
an ous to ascertan the cause of the threatenng
tones we had heard. Upon our comng to the ha,
we found the doughty hero standng at a wndow
wth a cocked gun n hs hands, sendng forth a
voey of oaths, and protestng he woud shoot the
frst man who approached hs door. The assaut,
however, whch he had thus gaanty repused,
beng now over, he soon became coo enough to n-
form us of the crcumstances. Two or three n-
dvduas of the adverse party, who were takng
ther nghty rounds under the wndows of ther
mstresses, hearng the reve at Posa s house, were
tempted to nterrupt t by |ust settng fre to the
door of the entrance-ha. The house mght, n a
short tme, have been n fames, but for the un-
quenchabe thrst of the owner, whch so season-
aby drew hm from the back to the front of the
budng.
We were once retrng home at break of day,
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L TT P P0M P I .
1
when Don |uan, who never qutted us, nssted
upon our beng ntroduced at that moment to one
of two brothers of the name of Pbera, who had,
the evenng before, arrved from hs farm. Pe-
monstrance was n van : Don |uan crossed the
street, and the wcket openng wth a atch, n
prmtve smpcty, we behed one of the most re-
nowned braggadocos of 0bera yng n bed, wth a
gun by hs sde. Pbera, so unceremonousy ds-
turbed, coud not hep greetng the vstors n rather
rough anguage but he was soon appeased, on
percevng that we were strangers. He sat up n
hs bed, and handed to me a tumber of brandy,
|ust fed from the ever-present green |ar, that stood
wthn hs reach upon a dea tabe. The fe I was
eadng had gven me a severe cough, and the
muzze of Pbera s gun cose to my head woud
scarcey have aarmed me more than the brm-fu
rummer wth whch I was threatened. terrbe
ft of coughng, however, came to my assstance
and Don |uan nterposng n my favour, I was
aowed to ay down the gass.
The facetousness of the two Pberas s greaty
admred n ther town. These ovng brothers had,
on a certan occason, gone to bed at ther cort|o
(farm), forgettng to put out the cand, or amp,
hung up at the opposte end of the ha. The frst
who had retred urged that t was ncumbent on
hm who sat up atest, to have eft every thng n
proper order but the offender was too azy to qut
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170 L TT P P0M P I .
hs bed, and a ong contest ensued. fter much,
and probaby not very temperate dsputng, a brght
thought seemed to have crossed the younger bro-
ther. nd so t was ndeed for stoppng short n
the argument, he grasped the gun, whch, as usua,
stood by hs bed-sde, took a sure am, and put an
end both to the dspute and ts sub|ect, by shootng
down the cand. The humour of ths potent con-
cuson was unversay appauded at 0bera. I
have been assured that the same e tngusher s
st, occasonay, resorted to by the brothers
and a gun heard n the nght, nfaby remnds the
nhabtants, of the Pberas amp.
ee ote G.
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L TT P P0M P I .
171
L TT P I.
eve, 1801.
My resdence n ths town, after vstng 0bera,
was short and unpeasant. The yeow-fever,
whch had some months before appeared at Cadz,
began to show tsef n our arge suburb of Trana,
on the other sde of the Guadaquvr. s no mea-
sures were taken to prevent communcaton wth
Cadz, t s supposed that the nfecton was brought
by some of the numerous seafarng peope that n-
habt the vcnty of the rver. The progress of the
maady was sow at frst, and confned to one sde
of the street where t began. Meetngs of a the
physcans were convened by the chef magstrates,
who, though e tremey arbtrary n matters of day
occurrence, are, n pan, very tmd and datory
on any e traordnary emergency. Unconscous of
the mpendng danger, the peope focked to these
meetngs to amuse themseves at the e pense of our
doctors, who are notorousy quarresome and
abusve when ptted aganst each other. few of
the most enghtened among them ventured to
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172 L TT P P0M P I .
decare that the fever was nfectous but ther
voce was drowned n the camour of a arge ma|o-
rty who wshed to nduge the stupd confdence of
the nhabtants. The dsease n the mean tme
crossed the rver and foowng the drecton of the
street where t orgnay appeared at Trana now
qute overrun by the nfecton began ts ravages
wthn the ancent was of our town. It was
aready hgh tme to take aarm, and symptoms of
t were shewn by the chef authortes. Ther mea-
sures, however, cannot fa to strke you as perfecty
orgna. o separaton of the nfected from the
heathy part of the town : no arrangement for con-
fnng and reevng the sck poor. The governor
who, by such means, had succeeded n stoppng
the progress of the fever woud have been caed to
account for the severty of hs measures, and hs
success aganst the nfecton turned nto a demon-
straton that t never e sted. n ous, therefore,
to avod every questonabe step n crcumstances
of such magntude, the cv authortes wsey re-
soved to make an appcaton to the archbshop
and chapter, for the soemn prayers caed Pogat-
vas, whch are used n tmes of pubc affcton.
Ths request beng granted wthout deay, the
Pogatva was performed at the cathedra for nne
consecutve days, after sunset.
The goom of that magnfcent tempe, scarcey
broken by the ght of s candes on the hgh
atar, and the gmmerng of the amps n the ases,
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L TT P P0M P I .
173
combned wth the deep and pantve tones of forty
sngers chantng the pententa psams, mpressed
the throng of suppcants wth the strongest fee-
ngs, whch superstton can graft upon fear and
dstress.
When the peope observed the nfecton makng
a rapd progress n many parts of the town, not-
wthstandng the due performance of the usua
prayers, they began to cast about for a more effec-
tua method of obtanng supernatura assstance.
It was eary suggested by many of the edery nha-
btants, that a fragment of the true Cross, or Lg-
num Cruets, one of the most vauabe recs pos-
sessed by the cathedra of eve, shoud be e h-
bted from the ofty tower caed Grada for they
st remembered, when, at the vew of that mra-
cuous spnter, myrads of ocusts whch threa-
tened destructon to the neghbourng feds, rose
ke a thck coud, and conveyed themseves away,
probaby to some nfde country. The Lgnum
Crurs, t was frmy beeved, woud, n ke man-
ner, purfy the atmosphere, and put an end to the
nfecton. 0thers, however, wthout any dspa-
ragement to the hoy rec, had turned ther eyes to
a arge wooden crucf , formery n great repute,
and now shamefuy negected, on one of the mnor
atars of the ustn rars, wthout the gates of the
town. The effectua ad gven by that crucf n
the pague of 1 4 was upon record. Ths won-
derfu mage had, t seems, stopped the nfec-
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174
L TT P P0M P I .
ton, |ust when one haf of the popuaton of eve
had been swept away thus evdenty savng the
other haf from the same fate. 0n ths ground,
and by a most natura anaogy, the hope was very
genera, that a tmey e hbton of the crucf
through the streets, woud gve nstant reef to the
town.
Both these schemes were so sound and ratona,
that the chef authortes, unwng to shew an
undue partaty to ether, wsey determned to
combne them nto one great ustraton. day
was, accordngy, f ed for a soemn processon
to conduct the crucf from the convent to the
cathedra, and to ascend the tower for the purpose
of bessng the four cardna wnds wth the Lgnum
Crurs. 0n that day, the chapter of the cathedra,
attended by the cv governor, the |udges, the
nqustors, and the town corporaton, repared to
the convent of ant ugustn, and, havng paced
the crucf upon a moveabe stage covered wth a
magnfcent canopy, waked before t wth ghted
candes n ther hands, whe the sngers, n a
mournfu stran, repeated the names of the sants
contaned n the Cathoc tany, nnumerabe
voces |onng, after every nvocaton n the ac-
customed response 0ra pro nobs. rrved at
the cathedra, the mage was e posed to pubc
adoraton wthn the presbytery, or space reserved
ee ote H.
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L TT P P0M P I .
175
for the mnsterng cergy, near the hgh atar.
fter ths the dean, attended by the chapter, the
nferor mnsters of the church, and the sngers,
moved n soemn processon towards the entrance
of the tower, and, n the same order ascended
the fve-and-twenty ncned panes, whch afford
a broad and commodous access to the open befry
of that magnfcent structure. The worshp pad
to any fragment of the true Cross s ne t n de-
gree to that whch s due to the consecrated
host. 0n the vew of the prest n hs robes at one
of the four centra arches of the ma|estc steepe,
the muttude, who had crowded to the neghbour-
hood of the cathedra from a parts of the cty, fe
upon ther knees, ther eyes streamng wth tears:
tears, ndeed, whch that unusua sght woud have
drawn from the weak and supersttous on any
other occason, but whch, n the present affcton,
the stoutest heart coud hardy repress. n acc-
denta crcumstance heghtened the mpressveness
of the scene. The day, one of the hottest of an n-
dausan summer, had been overcast wth eectrc
couds. The prest had scarcey begun to make
the sgn of the cross wth the goden vase whch
contans the Lgnum Cruets, when one of the tre-
mendous thunder-storms, so awfu n southern c-
mates, burst upon the trembng muttude.
few consdered ths phenomenon as a proof that
the pubc prayers were heard, and ooked upon
the ghtnng as the nstrument whch was to ds-
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17 L TT P P0M P I .
perse the cause of the nfecton. But the greatest
number read n the frowns of the sky the unap-
peased anger of Heaven, whch doomed them to
dran the btter cup that was aready at ther ps.
as they were not deceved. That doom had
been seaed when Provdence aowed gnorance
and superstton to f ther dweng among us
and the evs whch my countrymen feared from
a preternatura nterposton of the avengng powers
above, were ready to arse as the natura conse-
quences of the means they themseves had empoyed
to avert them. The mmense concourse from a
parts of the town had, probaby, condensed nto a
focus the scattered seeds of nfecton. The heat, the
fatgue, the an ety of a whoe day spent n ths
strkng, though absurd, regous ceremony, had
the most vsbe and fata effect on the pubc
heath. ght and forty hours after the proces-
son, the compant had eft but few houses un-
vsted. The deaths ncreased n a ten-fod propor-
ton, and at the end of two or three weeks the day
number was from two to three hundred.
Provdence spared me and my best frend by the
most unforeseen combnaton of crcumstances.
Though sufferng under an obstnate ague, Leandro
so he s caed at our prvate cub had deter-
mned not to qut hs coege, at the head of whch
he was paced for that year. Hs famy, on the
other hand, had for some tme resded at caa de
Guadara, a vage beautfuy stuated wthn tweve
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L TT P P0M P I .
177
mes of eve. armed at the state of the town,
and unwng to eave my frend to persh, ether
by the nfecton, or the negect to whch the gene-
ra consternaton e posed an nvad, I prevaed
upon hm to |on hs famy, and attended hm
thther. Ths was but a few days before the re-
gous ceremony whch I have descrbed from the
narratve of eye-wtnesses. It was my ntenton to
have returned to eve but the danger was now
so mmnent, that t woud have been madness
to encounter t wthout necessty. Thus a vst
whch I meant for a week, was nevtaby pro-
onged to s months.
or you, however, who ove deta n the descrp-
ton of ths htherto tte known country, my tme
was not spent n van. et I must begn by a fact
whch w be of more nterest to my od frend,
Doctor than yoursef.
caa de Guadara s a town contanng a popu-
aton of two thousand nhabtants, and standng on
a hgh hy spot to the north-east of eve. The
greatest part of the bread consumed n ths cty
comes day from caa, where the abundant and
pacd stream of the Guadara, factates the con-
structon of water-ms. Many of the nhabtants
beng bakers, and havng no market but eve,
were under the necessty of reparng thther du-
rng the nfecton. It s not wth us as n ngand,
where every tradesman practcay knows the ad-
vantages of the dvson of abour, and s at berty,

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178 L TT P P0M P I .
to consut hs own convenence n the sae of
hs artces. The bakers, the butchers, the gar-
deners, and the farmers, are here obged to se n
separate markets, where they generay spend the
whoe day watng for customers. 0wng to ths
reguaton of the poce, about s ty men, and
doube that number of mues, eave caa every
day wth the dawn, and stand t the evenng n
two rows, ncosed wth ron rangs, at the Paza
de Pan. The constant communcaton wth the
peope from a parts of the town, and so ong
an e posure to the atmosphere of an nfected pace,
mght have been supposed powerfu enough to
communcate the dsease. We, certany, were n
day apprehenson of ts appearance at caa. o
tte, however, can we cacuate the effects of
unknown causes, that of the peope that thus
braved the contagon, ony one, who passed the
nght n eve, caught the dsease and ded.
the others, no ess than the rest of the vage, con-
tnued to en|oy the usua degree of heath, whch,
probaby owng to ts ary stuaton, s e ceent at
a tmes.
The day accounts we receved from our cty,
ndependent of the danger to whch we beeved
ourseves e posed, were such as woud cast a
goom over the most sefsh and unfeeng. uper-
stton, however, as f the prospect had not been
suffcenty dark and dsma, was busy among us,
ncreasng the terrors whch weghed down the
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L TT P P0M P I .
17
mnds of the peope. Two brothers, both cergy-
men, weathy, proud, conceted of the |argon they
mstook for earnng, and ambtous of power under
the coak of zea, had, upon the frst appearance
of the fever, retreated to caa, where they kept
a country-house. Two more odous specmens of
the pampered, thorough-bred, fu-grown pansh
bgot, never appeared n the ranks of the cergy.
The edest, a dgntary of the church, was a sefsh
devotee, whose decded taste for good vng, and
morta averson to dscomfort, had made hm ca-
cuate wth great ncety how, by an economy of
peasure n ths word, he mght secure a reason-
abe share of t n the ne t. But whatever degree
of sef-dena was necessary to keep hm from gross
msconduct, he ampy repad hmsef n the en-
|oyment of contro over the conscences and con-
duct of others.
rom the comparatve poverty of the parsh
prests, and the shade nto whch they are thrown
by the upper cergy, the power of the frst s so
mted, that the most bgoted and voent among
them can gve but tte troube to the aty. The
true prest of od tmes s ony to be found among
those eccesastcs, who to a dgnfed offce |on
that degree of fanatcsm whch makes men con-
ceve themseves commssoned by Heaven to weed
the word of ev, and tear up by the roots what-
ever offends ther prveged and nfabe eyes.
Thus t was, for nstance, that the hoy personage
n 2
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180
L TT P P0M P I .
at caa camed and e ercsed a rght to e -
cude from church such femaes as, by a showy
dress, were apt to dsturb the abstracted, yet sus-
ceptbe mnds of the cergy. The ady of a |udge
was, wthn my recoecton, turned by ths proud
bgot out of the cathedra of eve, n the pre-
sence of a muttude assembed for the ceremones
of the Passon-week. The husband, whose ds-
peasure woud have brought run on a more hum-
be ndvdua, was obged to devour ths nsut n
sence. It shoud be observed, by the way, that
as the wakng-dress of the pansh femaes abso-
utey precudes mmodesty, the conduct of ths
regous madman admts no e cuse or paaton.
et ths s so far from beng a snguar nstance,
that, what sumptuary aws woud never be abe to
accompsh, the rude and nsoent zea of a few
prests has fuy obtaned n every part of pan.
0ur femaes, especay those of the better casses,
never venture to church n any dress but such
as habt has made famar to the eyes of the
zeaots.
Whatever be the feengs that produce t, there
1 , m pan, a sort of standng crusade aganst the
far se , whch our prests, e cept such as have
been secrety ganed over to the enemy, carry on
ncessanty, though not wth the same vgour, at
a tmes. The man sub|ect of contenton s a
rght camed by the cergy to reguate the dress
of the ades, and prevent the growth of such arts
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L TT P P0M P I .
181
of charmng as mght endanger the peace of the
church. Upon the appearance of a new fashon,
the drum eccesastc never fas to sound the
war-note. Innumerabe are the sermons I heard
n my younger days aganst sk shoes for the
pansh femaes have the e travagance to use them
out of doors the wearng of whch, especay
embrodered wth sk or god, was decared by
the soundest dvnes to be a morta sn. Patence,
however, and that watchfu perseverance wth
whch ature has armed the weaker se aganst
the tyranny of the stronger, have graduay ob-
taned a toeraton for sk shoes, whe taste has
e tenuated the sn by banshng the embrodery.
et the Demon of Mnery had atey set up
another stumbng-bock, by sy suggestng to
the ades that ther pettcoats were monstrous
ong, and conceaed those fary feet and ankes
whch are the prde of ndausa. The pettcoats
shrunk frst by bareycorns haf an nch was then
pared off by some boder sempstress, t at ength
the ground, the former pace of safety for conse-
crated eyes, was found thck set wth snares. In
van have the most powerfu preachers thundered
aganst ths abomnaton nor dd t ava that
some of our bshops, deemng the occason worthy
of ther nterference, grasped the ong-negected
pen to enter a most soemn protest aganst the
profaneness of the femae dress. But the case
seemed hopeess. pont ganed upon pettcoats
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182
L TT P P0M P I .
was sure to be ost on top-knots and when the
pous were trumphng on the fna sub|ecton of
pro|ectng stays, a pn threw them nto utter con-
fuson by aterng ts poston on the orthodo
neck-kerchef.
0ften had some great caamty been foretod
from the pupt as the punshment of the ncorrg-
be perverseness of our femaes and, on the frst
appearance of the fever, there was but tte doubt
among the chosen few as to ts rea cause. Many
a sttch was undone at eve, and many a founce
torn off, by the same pretty hand that, but a few
days before, had dstrbuted ts fodngs wth a con-
scous feeng of ts future arness and ght futter-
ngs. The pn, whch, n pan, forces the cambrc
kerchef to do, both mornng and evenng, the
transent mornng duty of your ruffs and spencers
that mysterous pn whch vbrates day at the
toette under the contendng nfuence of vanty
and decacy the pn, n short, whch, on our
femaes, acts as the nfabe barometer of devo-
ton, had rsen to the hghest pont of dryness,
wthout, aas checkng the progress of the dsease.
0ur two dvnes, fearfu of beng swept away
wth the guty, were, at ths tme, perfecty out-
rageous n ther zea to brng the bakers wves at
caa to a due sense of the ev nfuence of ther
garng, bushy top-knots and short pettcoats.
Havng, therefore, wth tte ceremony to the vear,
taken possesson of the parsh church, they began
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L TT P P0M P I .
183
a course of preachng for nne days, known by the
name of ovena, a defnte number whch, wth
many other supersttons, has been apped to re-
gous rtes among the Cathocs snce the tmes
of Poman pagansm.
Most of the pansh vages possess some mra-
cuous mage generay of the rgn Mary
whch s the paadum of the nhabtants. These
tutear detes are of a very rude and ancent work-
manshp, as t seems to have been the case wth
ther heathen prototypes. The Great Dana
of the caawns s a sma, ugy, wooden fgure,
neary back wth age, and the smoke of the amp
whch burns ncessanty before t, dressed up n a
tunc and mante of sver or god tssue, and bear-
ng a sver crown. It s dstngushed from the
nnumerabe host of wooden vrgns by the tte
of rgen de gua the rgn of the age,
and s worshpped on a hgh romantc spot, where
stood a hgh fortress of the Moors, of whch arge
runs are st vsbe. ehurch was erected, pro-
baby soon after the conquest of ndausa, on the
area of the ctade. sprng-we of the most
decous water s seen wthn the precncts of the
tempe, to whch the natves resort for reef n a
sorts of dstempers. The e treme purty of both
ar and water, on that eevated spot, may ndeed
greaty contrbute to the recovery of nvads, for
whch the rgn gets a the credt. .
The ovena, whch was to avert the nfecton
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184
L TT P P0M P I .
from the vage, woud have been neffcent wth-
out the presence of the age patroness, to whom
t was dedcated. The mage was, accordngy,
brought down to the parsh church n a soemn
processon. The edest Mssonay for such
prests as preach, not for a dspay of eoquence,
but the converson of snners, assume that tte
among us havng a shr, dsagreeabe voce, and
beng apt, when he addressed the peope, to work
hmsef nto a feversh e ctement approachng to
madness, generay devoved that duty on hs bro-
ther, whe he devoted hmsef to the confessona.
The brother s, ndeed, cast n the true moud of
a popuar preacher, such as can make a powerfu
mpresson on the ower casses of pan. Hs
person s strong, hs countenance amost handsome,
hs voce more oud than peasng. He has, n
fact, a the characterstcs of an ndausan Ma|o :
|et back passonate eyes, a shnng bush beard
darkenng hs cheeks from wthn an nch of hs
ong eye-ashes, and a swaggerng gat whch, n
the e pressve dom of the country, gves such as
move wth t, the name of Perdonavdas Lfe
sparers, as f other peope owed ther ves to the
mercy, or contempt of these heroes. The effects
of hs preachng were |ust what peope e pect on
smar occasons. Mssonary fees baffed and
dsapponted when he s not nterrupted by groans,
and some part of the femae audence w not go
nto hystercs. If he has a gran of sprt about
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L TT P P0M P I .
185
hm, such a perverse ndfference nettes hm nto
a furous passon, and he turns the nsensbty of
hs hearers nto a vsbe proof of ther reprobate
state. Thus t often happens, that, the peope
measurng ther sprtua danger by the orgna
duness or ncomprehensbty of the sermon, the
fna trumph of the mssonary s n e act pro-
porton to hs absurdty. To make these wd ds-
courses more mpressve, as we as to sut the con-
venence of the abourng casses, they are com-
mony devered after sunset. 0ur orator, t s
true, omtted the e hbton of a sou n he-fames,
whch a few years ago was reguary made from
the pupt n a transparent pcture but he worked
up the feengs of the audence by contrvances
ess dsgustng and shockng to common sense.
mong others he f ed a day for coectng a the
chdren of the town under seven years of age,
before the mage of the rgn. The parents, as
we as a others who had attaned the age of
mora responsbty, were decared to be unworthy
of addressng themseves n suppcaton, and there-
fore e cuded from the centre of the church, whch
was reserved for the throng of nnocent suppants.
When the frst perod of nne days had been
spent n ths mockery of common sense and re-
gon, the ferte mnds of our mssonares were
not at a oss to fnd a second course of the same
pous mummery, and so on t the nfecton had
ceased at eve. The preservaton of the vage
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180
L TT P P0M P I .
from the fever whch, more or ess, had e sted for
three or four months n the neghbourng towns,
you w easy beeve, was attrbuted by the
preachers to ther own e ertons. The ony good
effect, however, whch I observed, n consequence
of ther sermons, was the ncreased attendance of
the mae part of the popuaton at the Posaro de
Madrugada the Dawn Posary one of the few
usefu and peasng customs whch regon has n-
troduced n pan.
It s an estabshed practce n our country towns
to awake the abourng popuaton before the break
of day, that they may be eary n readness to
begn ther work, especay n the corn-feds,
whch are often at the dstance of s or eght
mes from the abourers dwengs. othng but
regon, however, coud gve a permanency to ths
practce. Consequenty a rosary, or processon,
to sng prases to the rgn Mary before the dawn,
has been estabshed among us from tme mme-
mora. man wth a good voce, actve, sober,
and fond of eary rsng, s ether pad, or voun-
teers hs servces, to perambuate the streets an
hour before day-break, knockng at the doors of
such as wsh to attend the processon, and nvtng
a to qut ther beds and |on n the worshp of the
Mother of God. Ths nvtaton s made n short
coupets, set to a very smpe meody, and accom-
paned by the pretty and vared tnkng of a hand-
be, beatng tme to the tune. The effect of the
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L TT P P0M P I . 187
be and voce, especay after a ong wnter-nght,
has aways been very peasng to me. or s the
fuer chorus of the subsequent processon ess so.
The chant, by beng somewhat monotonous, har-
monzes wth the stness of the hour and wth-
out chasng away the soft sumbers of the mornng,
reeves the mnd from the deas of sotude and
sence, and whspers fe and actvty returnng
wth the approachng day.
The fever havng stopped ts ravages about the
end of autumn, and neary dsappeared a few weeks
before Chrstmas, my frend and mysef prepared
to return home. I sha never forget our mean-
choy arrva n ths town on the ast evenng of
December. Besdes the st e stng danger of
nfecton to those who had been absent, there was
a vsbe change n the aspect of the town, no ess
than n the ooks and manner of the nhabtants,
whch coud not but strke the most thoughtess on
the frst approach to that scene of recent msery
and woe. n unusua stness regned n every
street and the few pae faces whch moved n
them, worked n the mnd a vvd representaton of
the ate dstress. The heart seemed to reco from
the meetng of od acquantances and the sgns of
mournng were evey where ready to check the frst
rsngs of |oy at the approach of frends that had
been spared.
The unday after our arrva, we went, accordng
to custom, to the pubc wak on the banks of the
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188
L TT P PP0M P I .
rver. But the thousands who made t ther resort
before the ate caamty, had now absoutey de-
serted t. t the end of the wak was the buryng-
ground, whch, durng the great mortaty, had
been apponted for that quarter of the cty. The
prevaent custom of buryng n vauts wthn the
churches kept the town unprovded wth an ap-
proprate pace for nterment out of the was and
a porton of waste and, or common, now contaned
the remans of ten thousand nhabtants, who n
ther hoday rambes had, not ong before, been
sportng unconscousy over ther graves. s we
approached the arge mounds, whch, wth the
ofty cross erected on the turf, were yet the ony
marks whch dstngushed the consecrated from
the common ground, we saw one of the Posaros,
or processons n honour of the rgn, sowy ad-
vancng aong the avenue of the pubc wak.
Many who formery frequented that pace for re-
creaton, had, under the mpresson of gref and
supersttous terror, renounced every speces of
amusement, and marshang themseves n two
fes, preceded by a cross, and cosed by the pcture
of the rgn on a standard, repared every unday
to the prncpa pace of bura, where they sad
prayers for the dead. our or fve of these pro-
cessons, consstng ether of maes or femaes,
passed towards the cemetery as we were returnng.
The meanchoy tone n whch they ncessanty
sang the ve Mara and the Lord s Prayer, as they
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L TT P P0M P I .
18
gded aong a former scene of fe and anmaton
and the studed panness of the dresses, contrasted
wth the gay appare whch the same persons used
to dspay on that very spot, eft us no wsh to
proong our wak. mong the ades whose pe-
ntent dress was most strkng, we observed many
who, not satsfed wth mere panness of attre,
had, probaby under a prvate vow, cothed them-
seves n a stuff pecuar to some of the regous
orders. The grey m ture used by the rancscans
was most prevaent. uch vows are ndeed very
common n cases of danger from ness but the
number and cass of the femaes whom we found
submttng to ths speces of penance, shewed the
e tent and pressure of the past affcton.
o transent, however, are the mpressons of
supersttous fear when unsupported by the pre-
sence of ts ob|ect, that a few months have suffced
neary to obterate the sgns of the past terror.
The term of the vows havng e pred wth most,
our femaes have recovered ther wonted sprts,
and put asde the du weeds of ther hoy patrons.
Many, t s probabe, have obtaned from ther
confessors a commutaton of the rash engagement,
by means of a few pence pad towards the e -
penses of any war that may arse between hs Ca-
thoc Ma|esty and Turks or nfdes a Crusade,
for whch government coects a vast yeary sum,
n e change for varous ghosty prveges and n-
dugences, whch the ng buys from the Pope at a
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1 0
L TT P P0M P I .
much cheaper rate than he retas them to hs
ovng sub|ects.
0ne oss aone w, I fear, be permanent, or of
ong duraton to the gay part of ths town. The
theatrca representatons, whch, on the frst ap-
pearance of the epdemc fever, were stopped, more
by the camour of the preachers than the appre-
hensons of the nhabtants w not be resumed
for years. The opnon formery entertaned by a
comparatvey sma number, that the openng of
the theatre at eve had never faed to draw the
vengeance of heaven sometmes on ts chef sup-
porters, sometmes on the whoe town has been
wonderfuy spread under the nfuenqe of the ast
vstaton : and government tsef, arbtrary and
despotc as t s among us, woud have to pause
before any attempt to nvove ths most regous
cty n the unpardonabe gut of aowng a com-
pany of comedans wthn ts was.
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L TT P P0M P I .
1 1
L TT P II.
eve, 1803.
I have connected few sub|ects wth more fee-
ngs of dsgust and pan, than that of the Pegous
0rders n ths country. The ev of ths nsttuton,
as t reates to the mae se , s so unm ed, and
unredeemed by any advantage, and ts abuse, as
apped to femaes, so common and crue, that I
reco nvountary from the tran of thought
whch I fee rsng n my mnd. But the tme
approaches, or my wshes overstep my |udgment,
when ths and such gross bemshes of socety w
be fnay e trpated from the face of the cvzed
word. The strugge must be ong and desperate
and nether the present nor the ensung generaton
are key to see the end. Let me, however, fatter
mysef wth the dea, that by e posng the ms-
chevous effects of the e stng system, I am con-
trbutng no matter how tte towards ts fna
destructon. uch a noton aone can gve me
courage to proceed.
Gbbon has deneated, wth hs usua accuracy,
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1 2
L TT P P0M P I .
the orgn and progress of monastc fe and to
hs eegant pages I must refer you for nformaton
on the hstorca part of my sub|ect. But hs ac-
count does not come down to the estabshment of
the Mendcant 0rders of rars. The dstncton,
however, between these and the Monks s not very
mportant. The Monks, as the orgna name m-
pes, retred from the word to ve n perfect so-
tude. s these fanatcs ncreased, many assoca-
tons were formed, whose members, professng the
same rue of regous fe, were dstngushed by
the approprate name of Camobtes. f- When, at
ength, the frantc sprt whch drove thousands to
ve ke wd beasts n the deserts, had rea ed,
and the orgna remtes were graduay gathered
nto the more soca estabshment of convents, the
orgna dstncton was forgotten, and the prmtve
name of Monks became prevaent. t hodng
up ther cams to be consdered nachortes, even
when they had become possessed of ands and
prncey ncomes ther monasteres were founded
n the neghbourhood, but never wthn the pre-
cncts of towns : and though the servce of ther
churches s spendd, t s not ntended for the
beneft of the peope, and the Monks are sedom
seen ether n the pupt or the confessona.
The rars date ther orgn from the begnnng
of the thrteenth century, and were nsttuted for
-
Chapter v. f Persons who ve n common.
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L TT P P0M P I . 1 3
the e press purpose of actng as au ares to the
cergy. ant Domnc, the most odous, and ant
rancs, the most frantc of modern sants, ensted
ther hoy troops wthout any mtaton of number
for, by quarterng them on the productve popua-
ton of Chrstendom, the founders took no concern
for the day suppy of ther numerous foowers.
The Domncans, however, havng succeeded n
the utter destructon of the bgenses, and sub-
sequenty monopozed, for more than three centu-
res, the offce of nqustors, enrched themseves
wth the spos of ther vctms, and are n the en-
|oyment of consderabe weath. The rancscans
contnue to thrve upon ams and, reyng on the
promse made to ant rancs n a vson, that hs
foowers shoud never fee want, pont to the
abundant suppes whch fow day nto ther con-
vents as a permanent mrace whch attests the ce-
esta orgn of ther order. Wth the hstorca
proofs of t. rancs s fnanca vson I confess
mysef perfecty unacquanted. But when I con-
sder that the genera or chef of these hoy beggars,
derves from the coectons day made by hs frars,
a persona ncome of twenty thousand a year, I
cannot wthhod my assent to ts genuneness for
who, e cept a supernatura beng, coud possess
such a thorough knowedge of the absurdty of
manknd
It woud be tedous to enter nto a descrpton of
the numerous orders comprehended under the two
o
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L TT P P0M P I .
casses of Monks and rars. The dstngushng
characters of the frst are weath, ease, and ndu-
gence those of the ast, vugarty, fth, and vce.
I sha ony add that, among the Monks, the Be-
nedctnes are at the top of the scae for earnng
and decency of manners, whe the Heronmtes
deservedy occupy the bottom. To the rars I
am forced to appy the pansh proverb There
s tte to ehoose n a mangy fock. The ran-
cscans, however, both from ther muttude and
ther ow habts of mendcty, may be hed as the
proper representatves of a that s most ob|ecton-
abe n the regous orders.
The nveterate superstton whch st supports
these nsttutons among us has ost, of ate, ts
power to draw recruts to the coster, from the
mdde and hgher casses. ew monks, and scarcey
a frar, can be found, who by takng the cow, has
not escaped a fe of menta to. Boys of ths rank
of fe are receved as novces at the age of ffteen,
and admtted, after a year s probaton, to the per-
petua vows of obedence, poverty, and cebacy. n-
gagements so dscordant wth the frst aws of
human nature coud hardy stand the test of tme,
even f they arose from the deepest feengs of
enthusasm. But ths affecton of the mnd s
sedom found n our convents. The year of nov-
cate s spent n earnng the cant and gestures of
the vest hypocrsy, as we as n strengthenng, by
th e ampe of the professed young frars, the or-
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1 5
gna gross manners and vcous habts of the pro-
batons. The resut of such a system s but too
vsbe. It s a common |est among the frars them-
seves, that n the act of takng the vows, when
the superor of the convent draws the cow over
the head of the novce, he uses the words Totte
verecundam Put off shame. nd ndeed, were
the frars haf so true to ther professon as they are
to ths supposed n|uncton, the Church of Pome
woud reay teem wth sants. hameess n beg-
gng, they share the scanty mea of the abourer,
and e tort a porton of every product of the earth
from the farmer. hameess n conduct, they spread
vce and demorazaton among the ower casses,
secure n the respect whch s fet for ther pro-
fesson, that they may engage n a course of pro-
fgacy wthout any rsk of e posure. When an
nstance of gross msconduct obtrudes tsef upon
the eyes of the pubc, every pous person thnks t
hs duty to hush up the report, and cast a ve on
the transacton. ven the sword of |ustce s
ganced asde from these consecrated crmnas. I .
sha not troube you wth more than two cases,
out of a muttude, whch prove the power of ths
popuar feeng.
The most ucratve empoyment for frars, n
ths town, s preachng. I have not the means to
ascertan the number of sermons devered at eve
ee de I.
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L TT P P0M P I .
n the course of the year but there s good reason
to suppose that the average cannot be ess than
tweve a-day. 0ne preacher, a cergyman, I know,
who scarcey passes one day wthout mountng the
pupt, and reckons on three sermons every for-
and-twenty hours, durng the ast haf of Lent.
0f these ndefatgabe preachers, the greatest
favourte s a young rancscan frar, caed Padre
P z, whose mert conssts n a soft cear-toned
voce, a tender and affectonate manner, and an
ncredbe fuency of anguage. Beng, by hs pro-
fesson, under a vow of absoute poverty, and the
rancscan rue carryng ths vow so far as not to
aow the members of the order to touch money, t
was generay understood that the produce of these
apostoca abours was fathfuy deposted to be
used n common by the whoe regous communty.
n ncdent, however, whch atey came to ght,
has gven us reason to suspect that we are not qute
n the secret of the nterna management of these
socetes of santy paupers, and that ndvdua n-
dustry s rewarded among them wth a consderabe
share of profts. young femae cousn of the
zeaous preacher n queston, was vng qute aone
n a retred part of ths town, where her reatve
pad her, t shoud seem, not unfrequent vsts.
ew, however, e cept her obscure neghbours, sus-
pected her conne on wth the frar, or had the
east noton of her e stence. n od woman at-
tended her n the day-tme, and retred n the even-
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L TT P P0M P I .
ng, eavng her mstress aone n the house. 0ne
mornng the street was aarmed by the od servant,
who, havng ganed admttance, as usua, by means
of a prvate key, found the young woman dead n
her bed, the room and other parts of the house
beng staned wth bood. It was cear, ndeed,
upon a sght nspecton of the body, that no vo-
ence had taken pace yet the powerfu nterest
e cted at the moment, and before measures had
been taken to hush the whoe matter, spread the
crcumstances of the case a over the town, and
brought the fact to ght, that the house tsef be-
onged to the frar, havng been purchased by an
agent wth the money arsng from hs sermons.
The hungry vutures of the aw woud have reaped
an abundant harvest upon any ay ndvdua who
had been nvoved n such a tran of suspcous cr-
cumstances. But, probaby, a proper douceur out
of the sermon fees ncreased ther pous tenderness
for the frar whe he was so embodened by the
dsposton of the peope to shut ther eyes on every
crcumstance whch mght suy the far name of a
son of ant rancs, that, a few days after the.
event, he preached a sermon, denouncng the curse
of Heaven on the mpous ndvduas who coud
harbour a beef derogatory to hs sacred character.
Crmes of the backest descrpton were eft un-
punshed durng the ast regn, from a f ed and
avowed determnaton of the ng not to nfct
Chares III.
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1 8
L TT P P0M P I .
the punshment of death upon a prest. Town-
send has mentoned the murder of a young ady-
commtted by a frar at an Lucar de Barrameda
and I woud not repeat the panfu narratve, were
t not that my acquantance wth some of her rea-
tves, as we as wth the spot on whch she fe,
enabes me to gve a more accurate statement.
young ady, of a very respectabe famy n the
above-mentoned town, had for her confessor a frar
of the Peformed or Unshod Carmetes. I have
often vsted the house where she ved, n front of
the convent. Thther her mother took her every
day to mass, and frequenty to confesson. The
prest, a man of mdde age, had conceved a passon
for hs young pentent, whch, not venturng to ds-
cose, he mady fed by vstng the unsuspectng
gr wth a the frequency whch the sprtua rea-
ton n whch he stood towards her, and the frend-
shp of her parents, aowed hm. The young
woman now about nneteen, had an offer of a
sutabe match, whch she accepted wth the ap-
probaton of her parents. The day beng f ed for
the marrage, the brde, accordng to custom, went,
attended by her mother, eary n the mornng to
church, to confess and receve the sacrament. fter
gvng her absouton, the confessor, stung wth the
madness of |eaousy, was observed whettng a
knfe n the ktchen. The unfortunate gr had,
n the mean tme, receved the host, and was now
eavng the church, when the van, meetng
her n the porch, and pretendng to speak a few
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L TT P P0M P I . 1 0
words n her ear a berty to whch hs offce
entted hm stabbed her to the heart n the pre-
sence of her mother. The assassn dd not endea-
vour to escape. He was commtted to prson and
after the usua deays of the pansh aw, was con-
demned to death. The ng, however, commuted
ths sentence nto a confnement for fe n a fortress
at Puerto Pco. The ony an ety ever showed by
the murderer was respectng the success of hs
crme. He made frequent enqures to ascertan
the death of the young woman and the assurance
that no man coud possess the ob|ect of hs passon,
seemed to make hm happy durng the remander
of a ong fe.
Instances of enthusasm are so rare, even n the
most austere orders, that there s strong ground to
suspect ts seeds are destroyed by a pervadng cor-
rupton of moras. The 0bservant rancscans, the
most numerous communty n ths town, have not
been abe to set up a vng sant after the death,
whch happened four or fve years snce, of the ast
n the seres of servants to the order, who, for tme
mmemora, have been a source of honour and
proft to that convent. Besdes the ay-brothers
a knd of upper servants under regous vows, but
e cuded from the dgnty of hoy orders the
frars admt some peasants, under the name of
Donados, Donat, n the Latn of the mdde ages,)
who, ke ther predecessors of serve condton, gve
themseves up, as ther name e presses t, to the
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200
L TT P P0M P I .
servce of the convent. s these peope are now-a-
days at berty to eave ther vountary servtude, none
are admtted but such as by the weakness of ther
understandng, and the natura tmdty arsng from
a degree of mbecty, are e pected to contnue for
fe n a state of regous bondage. They wear the
habt of the order, and are empoyed n the most
mena offces, uness, beng abe to act, or rather
to bear the character of e traordnary sanctty,
they are sent about town to coect ams for ther
empoyers. These dot sants are seen day wth a
vacatng step, and ook of the deepest humty,
bearng about an mage of the chd |esus, to whch
a basket for ams s appended, and offerng, not
ther hand, whch s the prvege of prests, but the
end of ther rght seeve, to be kssed by the pous.
To what nfuence these mserabe bengs are some-
tmes rased, may be earned from a few partcuars
of the fe of Hermanto ebastan (Ltte Brother
ebastan) the ast but one of the rancscan co-
ectors n ths town.
Durng the ast year of Php . Brother ebas-
tan was presented to the fotfantes, the kng s sons,
that he mght confer a bessng upon them. The
courters present, observng that he took most notce
of the kng s thrd son, Don Caros, observed to
hm that hs respects were chefy due to the edest,
who was to be kng. ay, nay, (t s reported he
answered, pontng to hs favourte) ths sha be
kng too. ome tme after ths ntervew, Don
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L TT P P0M P I .
201
Caros was, by the arrangements whch put an end
to the uccesson War, made overegn Prnce of
Parma. Conquest subsequenty rased hm to the
throne of apes and, asty, the faure of drect
hers to hs brother erdnand I. put hm n pos-
sesson of the crown of pan. Hs frst and une -
pected promoton to the soveregnty of Parma had
strongy mpressed Don Caros wth the dea of
ebastan s knowedge of futurty. But when, after
the death of the prophet, he found hmsef on the-
throne of pan, he thought hmsef bound n
honour and duty to obtan from the Pope the
Beatfcaton, or potheoss, of Ltte ebastan.
The Church of Pome, however, knowng the ad-
vantages of strct adherence to rues and forms,
especay when a kng stands forward to pay the
arge fees ncdent to such tras, proceeded at a
pace, compared to whch your Court of Chancery
woud seem to move wth the veocty of a meteor.
But when the day arrved for the e hbton, before
the Hoy Congregaton of Cardnas, of a papers
whatever whch mght e st n the hand-wrtng of
the canddate for santshp, and t was found neces-
sary to ay before ther mnences an orgna etter,
whch the ng carred about hs person as an
amuet good Caros found hmsef n a most per-
pe ng demma. Dstracted between duty to hs
ghosty frend, and hs fears of some persona ms-
fortune durng the absence of the etter, he e erted
the whoe nfuence of hs crown through the
pansh ambassador at Pome, that the tra mght
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202
L TT P P0M P I .
proceed upon the nspecton of an authentc copy.
The Pope, however, was ne orabe, and nothng
coud be done wthout the autograph. The kng s
mnsters at home, on the other hand, fndng hm
restess, and scarcey abe to en|oy the day amuse-
ment of the chase, succeeded, at ength, n brngng
about a pan for the e hbton of the etter, whch,
though attended wth an nevtabe degree of
an ety and pan to hs ma|esty, was, nevertheess,
the most key to spare hs feengs. The most
actve and trusty of the pansh messengers was
chosen to convey the nvauabe epste to Pome,
and hs speed was secured by the promse of a arge
reward. 0rders were then sent to the ambassador
to have the Hoy Congregaton assembed on the
mornng when the messenger had engaged to arrve
at the atcan. By ths skfu and deep-ad pan
of operatons, the etter was not detaned more than
haf an hour at Pome and another courer re-
turned t wth equa speed to pan. rom the
moment when the ng tore hmsef from the
sacred paper, t t was restored to hs hands, he dd
not venture once out of the paace. I have gven
these partcuars on the authorty oh- a man no ess
known n pan for the hgh staton he has fed,
than for hs pubc vrtues and taents. He has been
mnster of state to the present ng, Chares I .,
and s ntmatey acquanted wth the secret hstory
of the precedng regn.
|oveanos see ppend .
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L TT P P0M P I .
203
Great remnants of sef-tormentng fanatcsm are
st found among the Carthusans. 0f ths order
we have two monasteres n ndausa, one on the
banks of the Guadaquvr, wthn two mes of our
gates, and another at erez, or herry, as that
town was formery caed n ngand, a name whch
ts wnes st bear. These monasteres are rch n
and and endowments, and consequenty afford the
monks every comfort whch s consstent wth ther
rue. But a the weath n the unverse coud not
gve those wretched saves of superstton a snge
moment of en|oyment. The unhappy man who
bnds hmsef wth the Carthusan vows, may con-
sder the precncts of the ce aotted hm as hs
tomb. These monks spend day eght or nne
hours n the chape, wthout any musc to reeve
the monotony of the servce. t mdnght they
are roused from ther beds, whther they retre at
sunset, to chaunt matns t four n the mornng.
Two hours rest are aowed them between that servce
and mornng prayers. Mass foows, wth a short
nterrupton, and great part of the afternoon s
aotted to vespers. o communcaton s permtted
between the monks, e cept two days n the week,
when they assembe durng an hour for conversa-
ton. Confned to ther ces when not attendng
church-servce, even ther food s eft them n a
whee-bo , such as s used n the nunneres,
ee Letter . page 141.
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204
L TT P P0M P I .
from whch they take t when hungry, and eat t n
perfect sotude. few books and a sma garden,
n whch they cutvate aprofuson of fowers, are the
ony resources of these unfortunate bengs. To these
prvatons they add an absoute abstnence from
fesh, whch they vow not to taste even at the rsk
of ther ves.
I have on dfferent occasons spent a day wth
some frends at the Hospedera, or tranger s Lodge,
at the Carthusans of eve, where t s the duty
of the steward, the ony monk who s aowed to
m n socety, to entertan any mae vstors who,
wth a proper ntroducton, repar to the monastery.
The steward I knew before my vst to ngand,
had been a merchant. fter severa voyages to
pansh merca, he had retred from the word,
whch, t was evdent n some unguarded moments,
he had known and oved too we to have entrey
forgotten. Hs frequent vsts to the town, osten-
sby upon busness, were not entrey free from
suspcon among the de and nqustve and I
have some reason to beeve that these rumours
were found too we grounded by hs superors. He
was deprved of the stewardshp, and dsappeared
for ever from the haunts of men.
The austerty of the Carthusan rue of fe woud
cast but a transent goom on the mnd of an en-
ghtened observer, f he coud be sure that the m-
sery he behed was vountary that hope kept a crown
of gory before the eyes of every wretched prsoner,
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L TT P P0M P I .
and that no unwng vctm of a temporary u-
son, was pnng for ght and berty, under the
tombstone seaed over hm by regous tyranny.
But nether the vew of the monks, f ed as statues
n the stas of ther goomy church, nor those that
are seen n the darkest recesses of the costers,
prostrate on the marbe pavement, where, wrapt
up n ther arge whte mantes, they spend many
an hour n medtaton nor the bent,gdng fgures
whch wander among the earthy mounds under the
orange-trees of the cemetery that east meanchoy
spot wthn the wa of the monastery, nothng
dd ever so harrow my feengs n that manson
of sorrow, as the accdenta meetng of a repnng
prsoner. Ths was a young monk, who, to my
great surprse, addressed me as I was ookng at the
pctures n one of the costers of the Carthusans
near eve, and very potey offered to shew me
hs ce. He was perfecty unknown to me, and I
have every reason to beeve that I was equay so
to hm. Havng admred hs coecton of fowers,
we entered nto a terary conversaton, and he
asked me whether I was fond of rench terature.
Upon my shewng some acquantance wth the
wrters of that naton, and e pressng a m ed fee-
ng of surprse and nterest at hearng a Carthusan
venturng upon that topc, the poor young man was
so thrown off hs guard, that, eadng me to a book-
case, he put nto my hands a voume of otare s
Peces ugtves, whch he spoke of wth rapture.
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20
L TT P P0M P I .
I beeve I saw a voume of Pousseau s works n the
coecton yet I suspect that ths unfortunate man s
seect brary conssted of amatory rather than pho-
sophca works. The monk s name s unknown to
me, though I earned from hm the pace of hs
brth and many years have eapsed snce ths
strange meetng, whch from ts nsuaton amdst
the events and mpressons of my fe, I compare to
an ntervew wth an nhabtant of the nvsbe
word. But I sha never forget the thrng
horror I fet, when the abyss of msery nto whch
that wretched beng was punged, opened suddeny
upon my mnd. I was young, and had, t that
moment, mstaken the nature of enthusasm. ed
as I saw t n a Carthusan convent, I frmy be-
eved t coud not be e tngushed but wth fe.
Ths ocuar evdence aganst my former beef was
so panfu, that I hastened my departure, eavng
the devoted vctm to hs sotude, there to wat the
odous sound of the be whch was to dsturb hs
seep, f the subsequent horror of havng commtted
hmsef wth a stranger, aowed hm that nght to
cose hs eyes.
Though the number of Hermts s not consderabe
n pan, we are not wthout some estabshments
on the pan of the Lauras descrbed by Gbbon.
The prncpa of these sotudes s Monserrat n
Cataona, an account of whch you w fnd n
Chapter v.
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L TT P P0M P I .
207
most books of traves. My own observaton on
ths pont does not, however, e tend beyond the
hermtages of Cordoba, whch, I beeve, rank
ne t to the above-mentoned.
The branch of erra Morena, whch to the
north of Cordoba separates ndausa from La
Mancha, rses abrupty wthn s mes of that
cty. 0n the frst ascent of the hs the country
becomes e ceedngy beautfu. The sma rvuets
whch freshen the vaeys, aded by the powerfu
nfuence of a southern atmosphere, transform these
spots, durng pr and May, nto the most spendd
gardens. Poses and es, of the argest cutvated
knds, have sown themseves n the greatest profu-
son upon every space eft vacant by the mountan-
herbs and shrubs, whch form wd and romantc
hedges to these natve fower-pots. But as you
approach the mountan-tops to the rght and eft,
the rock begns to appear, and the scanty so,
scorched and puverzed by the sun, becomes unft
for vegetaton. Here stands a barren h of dffcut
approach on a sdes, and precptous towards
the pan, ts rounded head ncosed wthn a rude
stone parapet, breast hgh, a sma church rsng
n the centre, and about twenty brck tenements r-
reguary scattered about t. The dmensons of
the huts aow |ust suffcent room for a few boards
rased about a foot from the ground, whch, co-
vered wth a mat, serve for a bed: a trvet to st
upon, a dmnutve dea tabe supportng a crucf ,
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208
L TT P P0M P I .
a human sku, and one or two books of devoton.
The door s so ow that t cannot be passed wthout
stoopng and the whoe habtaton s ngenousy
contrved to e cude every comfort. s vstng
and takng together s forbdden to the hermts,
and the ces are at some dstance from one another,
a sma be s hung over the door of each, to ca
for assstance n case of sckness or danger. The
hermts meet at chape every mornng to hear mass
and receve the sacrament from the hands of a
secuar prest for none of them are admtted to or-
ders. fter chape, they retre to ther ces,
where they pass ther tme n readng, medtaton,
patng mats, makng tte crosses of pansh
broom, whch peope carry about them as a preser-
vatve from eryspeas, and manufacturng nstru-
ments of penance, such as scourges and a- sort
of wre braceets brsted nsde wth ponts, caed
Ccos, whch are worn near the skn by the utra-
pous among the Cathocs. ood, consstng of
puse and herbs3 s dstrbuted once a day to
the hermts, eavng them to use t when they
pease. These devotees are usuay peasants, who,
sezed wth regous terrors, are drven to ths
strange method of escapng eterna msery, n the
ne t word. But the hardshps of ther new pro-
fesson are generay ess severe than those to
whch they were sub|ect by ther ot n fe and
they fnd ampe amends for ther oss of berty
n the certanty of fopd and cothng wthout a-
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L TT P P0M P I . 20
bour, no ess than n the secret prde of superor
sanctty, and the consequent respect of the peope.
Thus far these hermtages e cte more dsgust
than compasson. But when, dstracted by super-
stton, men of- a hgher order and more decate
feengs, fy to these sotudes as to a hdng-pace
from menta terrors the consequences are often
truy meanchoy. mong the hermts of Cordoba,
I found a genteman who, three years before, had
gven up hs commsson n the army, where he
was a coone of artery, and, what s perhaps
more panfu to a panard, hs cross of one of
the ancent orders of knghthood. He |oned our
party, and showed more peasure n conversaton
than s consstent wth that hgh fever of enthu-
sasm, wthout whch hs present state of fe must
have been worse than death tsef. We stood upon
the brow of the rock, havng at our feet the e ten-
sve pans of Lower ndausa, watered by the
Guadaquvr, the ancent cty of Cordoba wth ts
magnfcent cathedra n front, and the mountans
of |a n, sweepng ma|estcay to the eft. The
vew was to me, then a very young man, truy
grand and mposng and I coud not hep congra-
tuatng the hermt on the en|oyment of a scene
. whch so powerfuy aftected the mnd, and wrapt t
up n contempaton. as (he answered wth
an ar of de|ecton) I have -seen t every day these
three years s hermts are Hot bound to ther
professon by rrevocabe vows, perhaps ths unfor-
p
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210
L TT P P0M P I .
tunate beng has, after a ong and panfu strugge,
returned to the habtatons of men, to hde hs face
n an obscure corner, bearng the reproach of apos-
tacy and backsdng from the bgoted, and the
sneer of rdcue from the thoughtess hs pros-
pects basted for ever n ths word, and darkened
by fear and remorse, n the ne t. Woe to the
ncautous who pubcy engage ther servces to re-
gon, under the mpresson that they sha be
aowed to wthdraw them upon a change of vews,
or an abatement of fervour. The very few estab-
shments of ths knd, where soemn vows do not
bansh the hopes of berty for ever, are fu of cap-
tves, who woud fan burst the nvsbe chans
that bnd them but cannot. The church and her
eaders are e tremey |eaous of such defectons:
and as few or none dare rase the ve of the sanctu-
ary, redress s neary mpossbe for such as trust
themseves wthn t. But of ths more n my
ne t.

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L TT P P0M P I .
211
L TT P III.
eve, 1805.
When the ast census was made, n 1787, the
number of pansh femaes confned to the coster,
for fe, amounted to thrty-two thousand. That n
a country where weath s sma and dstrbuted,
and ndustry angushes under nnumerabe re-
strants, there shoud be a great number of porton-
ess gentewomen unabe to fnd a sutabe match,
and consequenty gad of a dgnfed asyum,
where they mght secure peace and competence, f
not happness s so perfecty natura, that the
founders and supporters of any nsttuton ntended
to fuf those ob|ects, woud deserve to be reckoned
among the frends of humanty. But the crue
and wcked church aw, whch, aded by e ter-
na force, bnds the nuns wth perpetua vows,
makes the convents for femaes the Bastes of
superstton, where many a vctm ngers through
a ong fe of despar or nsanty.
Though I do not mean to enter nto a pont of-
theoogca controversy, I fnd t mpossbe to
p 2
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212
L TT P P0M P I .
dwe for a moment on ths sub|ect wthout e -
pressng my utter abhorrence and detestaton of
the cod ndfference wth whch our Church ooks
on the garng ev consequences of some of ts
aws, when, accordng to her own doctrnes, they
mght be ether repeaed or amended, wthout re-
nqushng any of her chams. The authorty of
the Poman Pontff, n a matters of church govern-
ment, s not questoned among Cathocs. et,
from a proud affectaton of nfabty, even upon
such ponts as the most voent partsans of that
absurd pretenton have never ventured to pace
wthn ts reach, the church of Pome has been so
sparng of the power to reform her aws, that t
mght be suspected she wshed to abandon t by
prescrpton. ways ready to bnd, the hers of
ant Peter have shewn themseves e tremey
averse to the more humane offce of oosng on earth,
e cept when t served the purposes of gan or am-
bton. The tme, I beeve, w never come when
the church of Pome w agree to make concessons
on what are caed matters of fath. But I cannot
dscover the east shadow of reason or nterest for
the obstnacy whch preserves unatered the bar-
barous aws reatng to the regous vows of
femaes uness t be that ve anma |eaousy,
whch persons, deprved of the peasures of ove,
are apt to mstake for zea n the cause of chastty
such zea as your ueen zabeth fet for the
purty of her mads.
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L TT P P0M P I .
213
The nunneres n ths town amount to twenty-
nne. 0f these, some are under the e cusve
|ursdcton of the rars, whose rue of regous
fe they profess and some under that of the ps-
copa ee. The ast, generay foow the monastc
rues of ant Benedct, ant Bernard, or ant
|erom and t s remarkabe, that the same supe-
rorty whch s observabe n the secuar above the
reguar cergy, s found n the nuns under the
epscopa |ursdcton. ome of these nhabt arge
convents, whose courts and gardens aow the
nhabtants ampe space for e ercse and amuse-
ment. Instead of narrow ces, the nuns ve n
a comfortabe sute of apartments, often at the
head of a sma famy of younger nuns whom they
have educated, or of pups, not under regous
vows, whom ther parents pace there for nstruc-
ton. The fe, n fact, of these communtes, s
rather coegate than monastc and were t not
for the tyrannca aw whch deprves the pro-
fessed nuns of ther berty, such estabshments
woud be far from ob|ectonabe. The dress of
these nuns s st that whch the Duenas, or
edery matrons, wore when the convents were
founded wth the addton of a arge mante,
back, whte, or bue, accordng to the custom of
the order, whch they use at the chor. rom a
head-dress not unke that whch, f I may venture
upon such matters, I beeve you ca a mob-cap
hangs the back ve. rosary, or cbapet of
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214
L TT P P0M P I .
back beads wth a cross at the end, s seen hang-
ng over the neck and shoudeps, or oosey coed
on a eather strap, whch tghtens the tunc or
gown to the wast. sp of coth of the breadth
of the shouders, caed the scapuary, hangs down
to the feet both before and behnd, probaby wth
a vew to concea every outne of the femae shape.
The mdness of these monastc rues beng un-
satsfactory to the fery sprt of bgotry, many
convents have been founded under the tte of
Peformed, where, wthout the east regard to the
se of the votares, young and decate femaes are
sub|ected to a fe of prvaton and hardshp, as the
ony nfabe method of obtanng the favour of
Heaven. Ther dress s a tunc of sackcoth, ted
round the wast wth a knotted rope. The rue
aows them no nen ether for cothng or beddng.
Wooen of the coarsest knd frets ther bodes,
day and nght, even durng the burnng summers
of the outh of pan. mante of the same sack-
coth s the ony addton whch the nuns make to
ther dress n wnter, whe ther feet, shod wth
open sandas, and wthout ether socks or stockngs,
are e posed to the sharp wnter basts, and the
deadenng ch of the brck-foors. band of
coarse nen, two nches n breadth, s worn by
the Capuchn nuns, bound tght s or eght tmes
round the head, n remembrance, t s sad, of the
crown of (horns and such s the barbarous sprt
of the rue, that t does not aow ths band to be
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L TT P P0M P I .
215
taken off, even under an access of fever. young
woman who takes the ve n any of the reformed
convents, renounces the sght of her nearest rea-
tons. The utmost ndugence, as to communca-
ton wth parents and brothers, e tends ony to a
short conversaton once a month, n the presence of
one of the eder nuns, behnd a thck curtan spread
on the nner sde of the ron gratng, whch com-
petey ntercepts the vew. The regous vows,
however, among the Capuchn nuns, put a fna
end to a communcaton between parents and
chdren.
To those unacquanted wth the character of our
speces of Chrstanty, t w be dffcut to con-
ceve what motve can nfuence the mnd of a
young creature of s teen thus to sacrfce hersef
upon the atars of these Moochs, whom we ca
ants and Patrarchs. To me these horrd effects
of superstton appear so natura, that I ony won-
der when I see so many of our regous young
femaes st out of the convent. Pemorse and
menta horrors goad some young men nto the
strctest monasteres, whe more amabe, though
equay mstaken vews, ead our femaes to a sm-
ar course of fe. We are taught to beeve sef-
nfcted pan to be acceptabe to the Dety, both
as an atonement for crme, and a token of thank-
funess. The femae character, among us, s a
compound of the most ardent feengs vehement
to derum, generous to devotedness. What won-
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21
L TT P 0M P I .
der then f, eary ( mpressed wth the oveness
and sufferngs of an ncarnate Dety, an e qustey
tender mnd grow restess and dssatsfed wth a
word, as yet known ony through the pctures of
morose fanatcs, and pant after the most effectua
means of gvng her ceesta over an unqueston-
abe proof of grattude The frst nascent wsh of
takng the ve s eagery watched and sezed by a
confessor, who, to a voent |eaousy of earthy
brdegrooms, |ons a confdent sense of mert n
addng one vrgn more to the ten thousand of the
sprtua Harem. Pous parents trembe at the
thought of standng between God and ther daugh-
ter, and often wth a beedng heart ead her to
the foot of the atar.
There s an e treme eagerness n the Cathoc
professors of cebacy, both mae and femae, to
decoy young persons nto the tos from whch they
themseves cannot escape. Wth ths vew they
have dsgused the awfu ceremony whch cuts off
an nnocent gr from the sweetest hopes of nature,
wth the pomp and gaety, whch manknd have
unanmousy bestowed on the trumph of egtmate
pve. The whoe process whch condemns a femae
to wther on the vrgn thorn, and ve a
barren sster a her fe, s studousy made to
represent a weddng. The unconscous vctm, ge-
neray n her ffteenth year, fnds hersef, for some
tme prevous to her takng the ve, the queen
( nay, the do of the whoe communty whch has
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L TT P P0M P I .
217
obtaned her preference. he s constanty ad-
dressed by the name of brde, and sees nothng but
gay preparatons for the e pected day of her sp-
rtua nuptas. ttred n a spendd dress, and
decked wth a the |ewes of her famy and frends,
she takes pubc eave of her acquantance vsts,
on her way to the convent, severa other nunneres,
to be seen and admred by the recuse nhabtants
and even the crowd whch coects n her progress,
foows her wth tears and bessngs. s she ap-
proaches the church of her monastery, the dgnfep
eccesastc who s to perform the ceremony, meets
the ntended novce at the door, and eads her to
the atar, amd the sounds of bes and musca n-
struments. The monastc weeds are bessed by
the prest n her presence and havng embraced
her parents and nearest reatons, she s ed by the
ady who acts as brde s-mad to the sma door ne t
to the doube gratng, whch separates the nuns
chor from the body of the church. curtan s
drawn whe the abbess cuts off the har of the
novce, and strps her of her wordy ornaments.
0n the remova of the curtan she appears n the
monastc garb, surrounded by the nuns bearng
ghted tapers, her face covered wth the whte ve
of probatonshp, f ed on the head by a wreath of
fowers. fter the Te Deum, or some other hymn
of thanksgvng, the frends of the famy ad|ourn
to the Locutory, or vstng-room, where a coaton
of ces and sweetmeats s served n the presence of
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218
L TT P P0M P I .
the mock brde, who, wth the prncpa nuns, at-
tends behnd the gratng whch separates the vstors
from the nmates of the convent. In the more
austere nunneres the partng vst s omtted, and
the sght of the novce n the whte ve, mme-
datey after havng her har cut off, s the ast
whch, for a whoe year, s granted to the parents.
They agan see her on the day when she bnds her-
sef wth the rrevocabe vows, never to behod her
more, uness they shoud ve to see her agan
crowned wth fowers, when she s ad n the
grave.
Instances of novces quttng the convent durng
the year of probaton are e tremey rare. The ce-
remony of takng the ve s too soemn, and bears
too much the character of a pubc engagement, to
aow fu berty of choce durng the subsequent
novcate. The tmd mnd of a gr shrnks from
the dea of appearng agan n the word, under the
tact reproach of fckeness and rea ed devoton.
The nuns, besdes, do not forget ther arts durng
the nomna tra of the vctm, and she ves a
whoe year the ob|ect of ther caresses. uns, n
,fact, who, after professon, woud have gven ther
ves for a day of free breathng out of ther prson,
t has been my msfortune to know but I cannot
recoect more than one nstance of a novce qut-
tng the convent and that was a woman of ob-
scure brth, on whom pubc opnon had no n-
fuence.
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L TT P P0M P I . 21
That many nuns, especay n the more bera
convents, ve happy, I have every reason to be-
eve but, on the other hand, I possess ndubtabe
evdence of the e quste msery whch s the ot
of some unfortunate femaes, under smar crcum-
stances. I sha menton ony one case, n actua
e stence, wth whch I am crcumstantay ac-
quanted.
vey and nterestng gr of ffteen, poor,
though connected wth some of the frst gentry n
ths town, havng receved her educaton under an
aunt who was at the head of a weathy, and not
austere, rancscan convent, came out, as the
phrase s, to see the word, prevous to her takng
the ve. I often met the ntended novce at the
house of one of her reatons, where I vsted day.
he had scarcey been a fortnght out of the
coster, when that word she had earned to abhor
n descrpton, was so vsby and rapdy wnnng
her affectons, that at the end of three months she
coud hardy dsguse her averson to the ve. The
day, however, was now fast approachng whch
had been f ed for the ceremony, wthout her fee-
nc suffcent resouton to decne t. Her father,
a good but weak man, she knew too we, coud
not protect her from the -treatment of an un-
feeng mother, whose vanty was concerned n
thus dsposng of a daughter for whom she had no
hopes of fndng a sutabe match. The kndness
of her aunt, the good nun to whom the dstressed
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220
L TT P P0M P I .
gr was ndebted for the happness of her chd-
hood, formed, besdes, too strong a contrast wth
the unkndness of the unnatura mother, not to
gve her waverng mnd a strong though panfu bas
towards the coster. To ths were added a the
arts of- pous seducton so common among the re-
gous of both se es. The preparatons for the
approachng soemnty were, n the mean tme, n-
dustrousy carred on wth the greatest pubcty.
erses were crcuated, n whch her confessor sang
the trumph of Dvne Love over the wy sugges-
tons of the mpous. The weddng-dress was shewn
to every acquantance, and due notce of the ap-
ponted day was gven to frends and reatves. But
the fears and averson of the devoted vctm grew
n proporton as she saw hersef more and more n-
voved n the tos she had wanted courage to burst
when she frst fet them.
It was n company wth my frend Leandro, wth
whose prvate hstory you are we acquanted,
that I often met the unfortunate Mara rancsca.
Hs efforts to dssuade her from the rash step she
was gong to take, and the warm anguage n whch
he spoke to her father on that sub|ect, had made
her ook upon hm as a warm and sncere frend.
The unhappy gr on the eve of the day when she
was to take the ve, repared to church, and sent
hm a message, wthout mentonng her name, that
ee Letter III.
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L TT P P0M P I .
221
a femae pentent requested hs attendance at the
confessona. Wth panfu surprse he found the
future novce at hs feet, n a state borderng on
dstracton. When a food of tears had aowed her
utterance, she tod hm that, for want of another
frend n the whoe word to whom she coud ds-
cose her feengs, she came to hm, not, however,
for the purpose of confesson, but because she
trusted he woud sten wth pty to her sorrows.
Wth a warmth and eoquence above her years, she
protested that the dstant terrors of eterna punsh-
ment, whch, she feared, mght be the consequence
of her determnaton, coud not deter her from the
step by whch she was gong to escape the nces-
sant persecuton of her mother. In van dd my
frend vounteer hs assstance to e trcate her from
the appang dffcutes whch surrounded her: n
van dd he offer to wat upon the archbshop, and
mpore hs nterference: no offers, no persuasons
coud move her. he parted as f ready to be con-
veyed to the scaffod, and the ne t day took the
ve.
The rea kndness of her aunt, and the treacher-
ous smes of the other nuns, supported the pnng
novce through the year of probaton. The scene
I behed when she was bound wth the perpetua
vows of monastc fe, s one whch I cannot reco-
ect wthout an actua sense of suffocaton. so-
emn mass, performed wth a the spendour whch
that ceremony admts, preceded the awfu oaths of
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222 L TT P P0M P I .
the novce. t the concuson of the servce, she
approached the superor of the order. pen, gav
ornamented wth artfca fowers, was put nto her
trembng hand, to sgn the engagement for fe, on
whch she was about to enter. Then, standng
before the ron grate of the chor, she began to
chaunt, n a weak and fantng voce, the act of
consecraton of hersef to God but, havng uttered
a few words, she fanted nto the arms of the sur-
roundng nuns. Ths was attrbuted to mere fatgue
and emoton. o sooner had the means empoyed
restored to the vctm the /powers of speech, than,
wth a vehemence whch those who knew not her
crcumstances attrbuted to a fresh mpuse of hoy
zea, and n whch the few that were n the panfu
secret saw nothng but the madness of despar she
hurred over the remanng sentences, and seaed
her doom for ever.
The rea feengs of the new votaress were, how-
ever, too much suspected by her more bgoted or
more resgned feow-prsoners and tme and de-
spar makng her ess cautous, she was soon ooked
upon as one key to brng dsgrace on the whoe
order, by dvugng the secret that t s possbe for
a nun to fee mpatent under her vows. The storm
of conventua persecuton, (the fercest and most
ptess of a that breed n the human heart), had
been owerng over the unhappy young woman
durng the short tme whch her aunt, the proress,
survved. But when death had eft her frendess,
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L TT P P0M P I .
-223
and e posed to the tormentng ngenuty of a crowd
of femae zeaots, whom she coud not escape for
an nstant unabe to endure her msery, she re-
soutey attempted to drown hersef. The attempt,
however, was neffectua. nd now the mercess
character of Cathoc superstton appeared n ts
fu gare. The mother, wthout mpeachng whose
character no |udca steps coud be taken to prove
the nvadty of the professon, was dead and
some reatons and frends of the poor prsoner
were moved by her sufferngs to appy to the church
for reef. sut was nsttuted for ths purpose
before the eccesastca court, and the cearest
evdence adduced of the ndrect compuson whch
had been used n the case. But the whoe order
of ant rancs, consderng ther honour at stake,
rose aganst ther rebeous sub|ect, and the |udges
sanctoned her vows as vountary and vad. he
ves st n a state approachng to madness, and
death aone can break her chans.
uch an nstance of msery s, I hope, one of
those e treme cases whch sedom take pace, and
more sedom transpre. The common source of
sufferng among the Cathoc recuses proceeds from
a certan degree of regous meanchoy, whch,
combned wth such compants as orgnate n per-
petua confnement, affect more or ess the greater
number. .
he ded n 1821.
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224
L TT P P0M P I .
The menta dsease to whch I aude s com-
mony known by the name of scrupuos, and
mght be caed regous an ety. It s the natura
state of a mnd perpetuay dweng on hopes con-
nected wth an nvsbe word, and an ousy prac-
tsng means to avod an unhappy ot n t, whch
keep the apprehended danger for ever present to
the magnaton. Consecraton for fe at the atar
promses, t s true, ncreased happness n the
word to come but the numerous and dffcut
dutes attached to the regous professon, mutpy
the hazards of eterna msery by the chances of
faure n ther performance and whe the pan
Chrstan s offences aganst the mora aw are often . .-.-
consdered as mere frates, those of the professed
votary sedom escape the aggravaton of sacrege.
The odous dgence of the Cathoc morasts has
raked together an endess cataogue of sns, by
thought, word, and deed, to every one of whch the
punshment of eterna fames has been assgned.
Ths st, ake horrbe and dsgustng, haunts the
magnaton of the unfortunate devotee, t, re-
duced to a state of perpetua an ety, she can
nether thnk, speak, nor act, wthout dscoverng
n every vta moton a sn whch nvadates a her
past sacrfces, and dooms her panfu efforts after
Chrstan perfecton, to end n everastng msery.
bsouton, whch adds bodness to the resoute
and profgate, becomes a fresh source of ds-
quetude to a tmd and scky mnd. Doubts n-
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L TT P P0M P I .
numerabe dsturb the unhappy sufferer, not, how-
ever, as to the power of the prest n grantng
pardon, but respectng her own fufment of the
condtons, wthout whch to receve absouton s
sacrege. These agonzng fears, chershed and fed
by the sma crce of ob|ects to whch a nun s
confned, are generay ncurabe, and usuay ter-
mnate n an untmey death, or nsanty.
There are, however, consttutons and tempers
to whch the atmosphere of a nunnery seems na-
tura and congena. Women of uncommon cever-
ness and |udgment, whose strength of mnd pre-
serves them n a state of ratona happness are
sometmes found n the costers. But the true,
the genune nun such, I mean, as, unncumbered
by a barbarous rue, and bessed wth that Lpu-
tan actvty of mnd whch can convert a parour
or a ktchen nto an unverse presents a most cu-
rous modfcaton of that amusng character, the
od mad. Lke ther vrgn ssters a over the
word, they too have, more or ess, a frtng pe-
rod, of whch the confessor s aways the happy
and e cusve ob|ect. The heart and sou of amost
every nun not passed ffty, are centred n the prest
that drects her conscence. The convent messen-
gers are seen about the town wth ots of sprtua
bets-dou , n search of a soothng ne from the
ghosty fathers. The nuns not ony address them
by that endearng name, but w not endure from
them the common form of speech n the thrd
person : they must be tutoye, as chdren are by
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22
L TT P P0M P I .
ther parents. |eaousy s a frequent symptom of
ths nameess attachment and though t s m-
possbe for every nun to have e cusve possesson
of her confessor, few w aow the presence of a
rva wthn ther own convent.
I do not ntend, however, to cast an mputaton
of evty on the cass of pansh femaes whch
I am descrbng. Instances of gross msconduct
are e tremey rare among the nuns. Indeed, the
physca barrers whch protect ther vrtue are
fuy adequate to guard them aganst the conse-
quences of a most unbounded ntmacy wth ther
confessors. ether woud I suggest the dea that
nothng but obstaces of ths knd keeps them, n
a cases, wthn the bounds of modesty. My ony
ob|ect s to e pose the absurdty and unfeeng-
ness of a system whch, whe t surrounds the
young recuses wth strong was, massve gates,
and spked wndows, grants them the most n-
tmate communcaton wth a man often a young
man that can be carred on n words and wrtng.
The strugge between the heart thus barbarousy
tred, and the unnatura dutes of the regous
state, though sometmes a mystery to the modest
sufferer, s pany vsbe n most of the young
captves.
bout the age of ffty, (for sprtua frtaton
sedom e hausts tsef before that age,) the genune
nun has setted every feeng and affecton upon
that shftng centre of the unverse, whch, ke
some crces n astronomy, changes wth every
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L TT P P0M P I . 227
step of the ndvdua I mean sef. It has been
observed that no uropean anguage possesses a
true equvaent for your ngsh word comfort
and, consderng the state of ths country, pansh
woud have tte chance of producng a smar
substantve, were t not tor some of our nuns, who,
as they make a constant practca study of the
sub|ect, may, at ength, enrch our dctonary
wth a name for what they know so we wthout
t. Ther comforts, however, poor sous are std
of an nferor knd, and arse chefy from the n-
dugence of that temper, whch, n the anguage
of your ades mads, makes ther mstresses very
partcuar and whch, by a strange appcaton
of the word, confers among us the name of rnper-
tnente. The squeamshness, fastdousness, and
morbd sensbty of nuns, make that name a pro-
verba reproach to every sort of affected decacy.
s great and weathy nunneres possess consder-
abe nfuence, and none can obtan the patronage
of the Hoy sters (Mothers, they are caed by
the panards,) wthout accommodatng themseves
to the tone and manners of the socety every per-
son, mae or femae, connected wth t, acqures a.
pecuar mncng ar, whch cannot be mstaken by
an e perenced observer. But n none does t ap-
pear more udcrousy than n the od-fashoned
nun-doctors. Ther patence n stenng to ong,
mnute, and often-tod reports of cases the mock
authorty wth whch they enforce ther prescrp-
tons, and the pecuar wt they empoy to rase the
a2
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2 28 L TT P P0M P I .
sprts of ther patents, woud, n a more free coun-
try, furnsh comedy wth a most amusng cha-
racter. ome years ago a very stupd practtoner
bethought hmsef of takng orders, thus to unte
the sprtua and body eech, for the convenence
of nuns. The Pope granted hm a dspensaton of
the eccesastca aw, whch forbds prests to
practse physc and he found hmsef unrvaed n
powers, among the facuty. The scheme suc-
ceeded so we that our doctor sent home for a ad,
hs nephew, whom he has brought up n ths two-
fod trade, whch, for want of drect hers, of whch
prests n ths country cannot boast, s key to be
perpetuated n the coatera branches of that famy.
Wth regard to ther curatve system, as t appes
to the sous, I am a very ncompenent |udge: the
body, I know at east the haf-sprtuazed bodes
of the nuns they treat e cusvey wth syrups.
Ths s a fact of whch I have a meanchoy proof
n a near reaton, a most amabe young woman,
who was aowed to drop nto an eary grave, whe
her growng dsease was opposed wth nothng but
syrup of voets I must add, however, that the
wary doctor, not forgettng the ghosty concerns of
hs patent, never omtted to add a certan dose of
gnus Castus to every ounce of the syrup a
practce to whch, he once tod a frend of mne,
both he and hs unce most regousy adhered
when attendng young nuns, wth the benevoent
purpose of makng ther regous dutes more
easy.
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L TT P P0M P I .
L TT P I .
eve, 180 .
s, n order to hep my memory, I have been
for some tme coectng notes under dfferent heads,
reatve to the customs, both pubc and prvate,
whch are most remarkabe n the annua crce
of evan fe, I fnd mysef possessed of a number
of detached scraps, whch, though affordng abun-
dant matter for more than one of my usua ds-
patches, are much too stubborn to bend themseves
nto any but ther orgna shape. fter castng
about n my mnd for some pcturesque or dramatc
pan of arrangement, I had, most cowardy, I con-
fess, and ke a mere novce n the art of author-
shp, determned to suppress the detached contents
of my common-pace book, when t occurred to
me that, as they were no ess key to gratfy
your curosty n ther present state than n a more
eaborate form, a smpe transcrpt of my notes
woud not stand amss n the coecton of my
etters. I sha, therefore, present you wth the
foowng sampe of my ast Hspaenses, or e-
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230
L TT P P0M P I .
van manack, wthout, however, bndng mysef
to furnsh t wth the three hundred and s ty-fve
artces whch that name seems to threaten. 0r,
shoud you st fnd the tte too ambtous and
hgh-soundng for the mere gossp and pratte of
ths seres of scraps, I beg you w ca t (for
I have not the heart to send out my productons
not ony shapeess, but nameess)
M M0P DUM 0 0M D LU I
CU T0M D TI L .
| U P 20TH. I T B TI D .
Carnva has been ushered n, accordng to an
ancent custom whch authorses so eary a com-
mencement of the gaetes that precede Lent.
Ltte, however, remans of that sprt of mrth
whch contrved such ampe amends for the de-
mure behavour requred durng the annua grand
fast. To |udge from what I have seen and heard n
my boyhood, the generaton who ved at eve
before me, were, n ther ove of nosy merrment,
but one step above chdren and contrved to pass
a consderabe porton of ther tme n a rou d
of amusements, more remarkabe for |oty than
for ether show or refnement yet unm ed wth
any grossness or ndecorum. I sha gve a spec-
men n a famy of mdde rank, whose crcum-
stances were not the most favourabe to cheerfu-
ness.
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L TT P P0M f I .
231
The |oy and deght of my chdhood was cen-
tered n the house of four spnsters of the good od
tmes, who, durng a perod of between ffty and
s ty years, passed n snge bessedness, and
wth cams to respectabty, as ampe as ther
means of supportng t were scanty had waged the
most resoute and successfu war aganst mean-
choy, and were now the seasoned veterans of
mrth. Poverty beng no source of degradaton
among us, these ades had a pretty numerous cr-
ce of frends, who, wth ther young fames, fre-
quented ther house one of the od, arge, and
substanta budngs whch, for a trfng rent, may
be had n ths town, and whch care and neatness
have kept furnshed for more than a century, wth-
out the addton or substtuton of a snge artce.
In a ofty drawng-room, hung round wth tapestry,
the faded remnants of ancent famy prde, the
good od ades were ready, every evenng after
sunset, to wecome ther frends, especay the
young of both se es, to whom they showed the
most good-natured kndness. Ther scanty revenue
dd not aow them to treat the company wth the
usua refreshments, e cept on partcuar days an
e pense whch they met by a we-panned system
of starvaton, carred on throughout the year, wth
the utmost good humour. n ancent gutar, as
arge as a moderate voonceo, stood up n a cor-
ner of the room, ready at a moment s notce, to str
up the sprts of the young peope nto a dance
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232
L TT P P0M P I .
of the pansh egudas, or to accompany the
songs whch were often forfeted n the games that
formed the stape merrment at ths season.
The games, n truth, whch n ngand are
neary forgotten, even wthn ther ast asyums
ades schoos and nurseres, were thrty years
ago a favourte amusement n ths country. That
they have, at some perod, been common to a great
part of urope, w not be doubted by any one
who, ke mysef, may attach such mportance
to ths sub|ect as to be at the troube of comparng
the dfferent sports of that knd whch preva n
rance, ngand, and pan. I wsh, ndeed, that
antquarans were a more |ova and voate race
than I have found them n genera and that some
one woud trace up these amusements to ther com-
mon source. The rench, wth that sprt of
system and scentfc arrangement whch even ther
perfumers, Marchandes de Modes, and dancng-
masters dspay, have aready, accordng to a trea-
tse now yng before me, dstrbuted these games
nto |eu d acton and |eu cfesprt.
In markng ther smarty among the three
natons I have mentoned, I sha pass over the
former for who can doubt that rompng (so I
w venture, though ess eeganty, to e press the
rench acton) s an nnate prncpe n manknd,
mpeng the human anma to smar pranks
a over the gobe, from the frst to the thrd of hs
cmactercs But to fnd that, |ust at the age
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L TT P P0M P I .
233
when he perceves the necessty of assumng the
demureness of maturty, he shoud, n dfferent
paces and under a varety of crcumstances, fa
upon the same contrvances n order to despere n
oco, or to fnd a oop-hoe to nduge hmsef n
payng the foo, s a phenomenon whch I beg
eave to recommend to the attenton of phoso-
phers.
The |eu a esprt, whch I fnd to be used, wth
some sght varatons, n rance, ngand, and
pan, or, at east, n some two of those countres,
are The vary, or gvng the heart to one brd,
commttng one s secret to another, and puckng a
feather from a thrd at the rsk of mstakng
the ob|ects of the ntended raery or gaantry,
dsgused under the name of dfferent brds. In
The oder, the payers beng questoned by the
eader about the cothng they mean to gve a
decayed veteran, must avod the words yes, no,
whte, and back. The ngenuty dspayed n ths
game s much of the knd that appears n some
of our taes of the seventeenth century, where
the author engaged to omt some partcuar vowe
throughout hs narratve. haustng a etter, each
payer beng obged to use three words wth the
nta proposed by the eader. The ngsh game,
/ ove my ove, s a modfcaton of ths : n pansh
t s commony caed e |ardn, the Garden. La
Paza de Toros, or the Bu mphtheatre, n
rench, U mphgour, s a story made up of
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234
L TT P P0M P I .
words coected from the payers, each of whom
engages to name ob|ects pecuar to some trade.
Le mot pace, a refnement on Cross purposes, n
pansh Los Dcsprop stos, s a game n whch
every payer n the rng, havng whspered to hs
neghbour, on the rght, the most unusua word
he can thnk of, questons are put n the opposte
drecton, the answer to whch, besdes beng per-
tnent, must contan the gven word. The stoo of
repentance, (Gace) La eette, (Hspan.) La
Berna, s, as my rench author wsey observes, a
dangerous game, where the pentent hears hs
fauts from every one n company through the me-
dum of the eader, t he can guess the person who
has netted hm most by hs remarks.
I w not deny that a taste among grown peope
for these chdsh amusements, bespeaks a great want
of refnement but I must own, on the other hand,
that there s a charm n the remnants of prmtve
smpcty, whch gave a resh to these scenes of
domestc gaety, not to be found n the more af-
fected manners of the present day. The rench,
especay n the provnces, are st addcted to
these |oyous, unsophstcated famy meetngs. or
my part, I ament that the perod s neary gone by,
when nether bgotry nor fastdousness had as yet
condemned those cheap and smpe means of gvng
vent to the overfow of sprts, so common n the
youth of a countres, but more especay under
ths our anmatng sky and cannot endure wth
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L TT P P0M P I .
235
patence, that fashon shoud begn to dsdan those
frendy meetngs, where mrth and |oy, sprngng
from the young, dffused a fresh gow of fe over the
od, and Hope and Pemembrance seemed to shake
hands wth Peasure n the very teeth of Tme.
s Carnva approached, the sprt of rompng
ganed fast upon ts assduous votares, t t ended
n a fu possesson, whch asted the three days pre-
cedng sh-Wednesday.
The custom auded to by Horace of stckng
a ta, s st practsed by the boys n the streets,
to the great annoyance of od ades, who are ge-
neray the ob|ects of ths sport. 0ne of the ragged
strpngs that wander n crowds about eve,
havng tagged a pece of paper wth a hooked pn,
and stoen unperceved behnd some sow-paced
femae, as, wrapt up n her ve, she tes the beads
she carres n her eft hand fastens the paper-ta
on the back of the back or wakng pettcoat, caed
aya. The whoe gang of ragamuffns, who, at a
convenent dstance, have watched the de terty of
ther companon, set up a oud cry of Ldrgao,
Idrgao Drop t, drop t whch makes every
femae n the street ook to the rear, whch, they
. . . ho ut sapentor, e
u te derdet, caudam tahat, at. II. .
o be who dared thy madness to derde,
Though you may franky own yoursef a foo,
Behnd hm tras hs mark of rdcue.
ravcs.
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23 L TT P P0M P I .
we know s the f ed pont of attack wth the merry
ght-troops. The aarm contnues t some frendy
hand reeves the vctm of sport, who, spnnng and
noddng ke a spent top, tres n van to catch a
gance at the fast-pnned paper,- unmndfu of the
physca aw whch forbds her head to revove
faster than the great orbt on whch the omnous
comet fes.
Carnva, propery so caed, s mted to un-
quagesma- unday, and the two foowng days, a
perod whch the ower casses pass n drnkng and
rotng n those streets where the meaner sort of
houses abound, and especay n the vcnty of the
arge courts, or has, caed Corraes, surrounded
wth sma rooms or ces, where numbers of the poor-
est nhabtants ve n fth, msery, and debauch.
In front of these horrbe paces are seen crowds
of men, women, and chdren, sngng, dancng,
drnkng, and pursung each other wth handfus of
har-powder. I have never seen, however, an n-
stance of ther takng bertes wth any person
above ther cass yet, such bacchanas produce a
feeng of nsecurty, whch makes the approach of
those spots very unpeasant durng the Carnva.
t Madrd, where whoe quarters of the town,
such as vapes and Maravas, are nhabted e -
cusvey by the rabbe, these aturnaa are per-
formed upon a arger scae. I once ventured wth
three or four frends, a muffed n our coaks, to
parade the vapes durng the Carnva. The
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L TT P P0M P I .
-237
streets were crowded wth men, who, upon the
east provocaton, rea or magnary, woud have
nstanty used the knfe, and of women equay
ready to take no sght share n any quarre: for
these ovey creatures often carry a ponard n a
sheath, thrust wthn the upper part of the eft
stockng, and hed up by the garter. We were,
however, upon our best behavour, and by a ook of
compacency on ther sports, and keepng at the
most respectfu dstance from the women, came
away wthout meetng wth the east dsposton to
nsoence or rudeness.
genteman who, ether out of curosty or de-
praved taste, attends the amusements of the vugar,
s generay respected, provded he s a mere spec-
tator, and appears ndfferent to the femaes. The
ancent pansh |eaousy s st observabe among
the ower casses and whe not a sword s drawn
n pan upon a ove-quarre, the knfe often
decdes the cams of more humbe overs. et, ove
s, by no means, the man nstgator of murder among
us. consttutona rrtabty, especay n the
southern provnces, eads, wthout any more as-
sgnabe reason, to the frequent sheddng of bood.
sma quanty of wne, nay, the mere bowng of
the eastery wnd, caed odno, s nfaby at-
tended wth deady quarres n ndausa. The
average of dangerous or morta wounds, on every
great festva at eve, s, I beeve, about two or
three. We have, ndeed, a we-endowed hospta,
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238
L TT P P0M P I .
named de os Herdos, whch, though open to a
persons who meet wth dangerous accdents, s
from ths unhappy dsposton of the peope, amost
confned to the wounded. The arge arm-char
where the surgeon n attendance- e amnes the
patent |ust as he s brought n, usuay upon a
adder, s known n the whoe town by the name
of the Bues char a de os Guapos. very
thng, n fact, attests both the generaty and nve-
teracy of that horrbe propensty among the
panards. I have met wth an orgna unpub-
shed prvege granted n 1511, by ng Don
Manoe of Portuga, to the German merchants
estabshed at Lsbon, whereby ther servants, to
the number of s , are aowed to carry arms both
day and nght, provded such prveged servants be
not panards. Had ths cause been nserted
after the Portuguese naton had thrown off the
pansh yoke, I shoud attrbute t to potca
|eaousy but, consderng ts date, I must ook
upon t as provng the nveteracy and notorety of
the barbarous dsposton, the menton of whch has
ed me nto ths dgresson.
The Carnva amusements st n use among
the mddng ranks of ndausa are, swngng, pay-
ng a manner of trcks on the unwary, such as
breakng egg-shes fu of powdered tac on the
0s quas servdores nao seau Hespanhdes para gozarem
de dta be tade.
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L TT P P0M P I .
23
head, and throwng handfus of sma sugar-pums
at the ades, whch they repay wth hesprnkng
the assaants wth water from a squrt. Ths ast
practca |oke, however, begns to be dsused, and
ncreased refnement w soon put an end to them
a. Dancng and a supper to tht frequenters of
the day Terua, s, on one of the three days of
Carnva, a matter of course among the weathy.
H-W D D .
The frocs of Carnva are sometmes carred on
t the dawn of ths day, the frst of the ong fast
of Lent, when a sudden and most unpeasant tran-
ston takes pace for such as have set no bounds to
the nosy mrth of the precedng season. But, as
the regous dutes of the church begn at mdnght,
the amusements of hrove-Tuesday cease, n the
more correct fames, at tweve, |ust as your 0pera
s hurred, on aturdays, that t may not encroach
on the foowng day.
Mdnght s, ndeed, a most mportant perod
wth us. The obgaton of fastng begns |ust when
the eadng cock of every town strkes tweve and
as no prest can ceebrate mass, on any day what-
ever, f he has taken the smaest porton of meat
or drnk after the begnnng of the cv day, I have
often seen cergymen devourng ther supper aganst
tme, the watch upon the tabe, and the an ous
eye upon the fata hand, whe arge mouthfus,
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240
L TT P P0M P I .
chasng one another down ther amost convused
throats, appeared to threaten suffocaton. uch
hurry w seem ncredbe to your we-fed n-
gshmen, for whom supper s an empty name. ot
so to our worthy dvnes, who, havng had ther
dnner at one, and a cup of chocoate at s , fee
strongy the necessty of a substanta supper before
they retre to bed. prest, therefore, who, by
some untoward accdent, s overtaken by the dead
waste and mdde of the nght, wth a cravng
stomach, havng to perform mass at a ate hour
ne t mornng, may we fee aarmed at hs mpend-
ng sufferngs. The strctness, n fact, wth whch
the rue of recevng the acrament nto a fastng
stomach s observed, w hardy be beeved n a
Protestant country. I have known many a prof-
gate prest yet never but once met wth any who
ventured to break ths sacramenta fast. The n-
fracton of ths rue woud strke horror nto every
Cathoc bosom and the convcted perpetrator of
such a darng sacrege as dvdng the power of
dgeston between the Host and common food,
woud fnd t dffcut to escape the ast vengeance
of the Church. Ths aw e tends to the aty
whenever they ntend to communcate.
I must now acquant you wth the rues of the
Poman Cathoc fast, whch a persons above the
age of one-and-twenty, are bound to observe durng
Lent, undays e cepted. 0ne mea aone, from
whch fesh, eggs, mk, and a ts preparatons,
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L TT P P0M P I .
241
such as cheese and butter, caed Lactcna, are e -
cuded, s aowed on a fast day. It s under ths
severe form that your ngsh and Irsh Cathocs
are bound to keep ther Lent. But we panards
are the darngs of our Mother Church of Pome,
and en|oy most vauabe prveges. The Bu of
the Crusade, n the frst pace, dspenses wth our
abstnence from eggs and mk. Besdes throwng
open the hen-house and dary, the sad Bu unocks
the treasure of ad-up merts, of whch the Pope
keeps the key, and thus we are refreshed both n
body and sou, at the trfng cost of about three-
pence a-year. et we shoud have been compeed
to ve for forty days on your ewfoundand fsh
not a savoury food n these hot countres had t
not been for a new knd of hosttes whch our
Government, n concert wth the Pope, devsed
aganst ngand, I beeve durng the sege of Gb-
ratar. By aowng the panards to eat meat four
days n the Lent weeks, t was proposed to dmnsh
the profts whch Great Brtan derves from the
e portaton of dred fsh. We had accordngy an-
other prvege, under the tte of esh-Bu, at the
same moderate prce as the former. Ths add-
tona revenue was found too consderabe to be re-
nqushed on the restoraton of peace and the
Pope, who has a share n t, soon dscovered that
the weakness of our consttutons requres more
sod natrment than the dry chps of the ew-
foundand fsh can afford.
P
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242
L TT P8 P0M P I .
The Bu of the Crusade s procamed, every
year before Lent, by the sound of kette-drums
and trumpets. s no one can en|oy the prveges
e pressed n these papa rescrpts wthout possessng
a prnted copy thereof, wheren the name of the
owner s nserted there s a house at eve wth
a prntng-offce, by far the most e tensve n
ndausa, where, at the e pense of Government,
these Bus are reprnted every year, both for pan
and pansh merca. ow, t has been wsey
arranged that, on the day of the yeary pubcaton,
copes for the precedng twevemonth sha be-
come absoutey stae and unproftabe a measure
whch produces a most prodgous hurry to obtan
new Bus, n a who wsh we to ther sous and
do not qute overook the ease and comfort of ther
stomachs.
The artce of Bus hod a conspcuous staton
n the pansh budget. The prce of the copes
beng, however, more than doube n pansh me-
rca, t s from thence that the chef proft of ths
sprtua |ugge arses. Cargoes of ths hoy paper
are sent over every year by Government to a our
transatantc possessons, and one of the most se-
vere consequences of a war wth ngand, s the
dffcuty of conveyng these ghosty treasures to
our brethren of the ew Word, no ess than that
of brngng back the wordy, yet necessary, dross,
whch they gve n e change to the Mother-country.
But I fear I am betrayng state secrets.
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L TT P P0M P I .
243
MID-L T.
We have st the remnants of an ancent custom
ths day, whch shews the mpatent feengs wth
whch men sacrfce ther comforts to the fears of
superstton. Chdren of a ranks those of the
poor n the streets, and such as beong to the
better casses n ther houses appear fantastcay
decorated, not unke the ngsh chmney-sweep-
ers on May-day, wth caps of gt and cooured
paper, and coats made of the Crusade Bus of the
precedng year. In ths attre they keep up an n-
cessant dn the whoe day, cryng, as they sound
ther drums and rattes, serrar a ve|a a pcara
pee|a: aw down the od woman, the rogush
b ch. bout mdnght, partes of the common
peope parade the streets, knockng at every door,
and repeatng the same words. I understand that
they end ths reve by sawng n two, the fgure of
an od woman, whch s meant as the embem of
Lent.
There s tte ground, however, for these peevsh
feengs aganst od Lent, among the cass that e -
hbts them most for few of the poorer nhab-
tants of arge towns taste any meat n the course
of the year, and, vng as they do upon a very
scanty pttance of bread and puse, can afford to
confne themseves to one mea n the four-and-
twenty hours. The prvatons of the fastng season
are fet chefy by that numerous cass who, unabe
r 2
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244
L TT P P0M P I .
the other hand, a strong sense of regous duty
submt ke unwng saves to the unwecome task
whch they dare not omt. Many, however, fa
off before the end of Lent, and take to ther break-
fasts and suppers under the sanctcn of some good-
natured Doctor, who decares fastng n|urous to
ther heath. 0thers, whose heathy ooks woud
bee the dspensng physcan, compound between
the Church and ther stomachs by addng an ounce
of bread to the cup of chocoate whch, under the
name of Parvedad, our dvnes admt as a vena
nfracton. There s, besdes, a fast-day supper,
whch was ntroduced by those good sous the pr-
mtve Monks at ther evenng conferences, where,
fndng that an empty stomach was apt to ncrease
the hoowness of ther heads, they aowed them-
seves a crust of bread and a gass of water, as a
support to ther fantng eoquence. Ths rea a-
ton of the prmtve fast took the name of Coato,
or conference, whch t preserves among us. The
Cathoc casusts are not agreed, however, on the
quantty of bread and vegetabes, (for any other
food s strcty e cuded from the coaton,) whch
may be aowed wthout beng guty of a deady
sn. The Probabstc e tend ths berty as far as
s ounces by weght, whe the ProbaborstcB w
not answer for the safety of a hungry sou, who n-
duges beyond four ounces. Who sha decde when
doctors dsagree I have known an e ceent man
who weghed hs food on these occasons t he
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L TT P P0M P I .
245
brought t wthn some grans of four ounces. But
few are ncned to take the matter so serousy,
and, confdng n the decetfu baance of ther eyes,
use a system of weghts n whch four ounces fa
tte short of a pound.
P I0 , 0P H0L W .
Pandte, nunc, Hecona, Dece, mght I say, n
the true sprt of a natve of eve, when enterng
upon a sub|ect whch s the chef prde of ths town.
To te the honest truth, we are quzzed evey where
for our concet of these soemntes and t s a
standng |oke aganst the evans, that on the ar-
rva of the ng n summer, t was moved n the
Cabdo, or town corporaton, to repeat the Passon-
week for the amusement of hs Ma|esty. It must
be owned, however, that our Cathedra servce on
that soemn Chrstan festva yeds not n mpres-
sveness to any ceremones of modern worshp,
to dspe ther supersttous fear, and wantng, on
The Casusts are dvded nto Probabtes and Proba-
borsta. The frst, among whom were the |esuts, mantan
that a certan degree of probabty as to the awfuness of an
acton s enough to secure aganst sn. The second, supported by
the Domncans and the |ansensts (a knd of Cathoc Cavnsts,
condemned by the Church) nsst on the necessty of aways
takng the safest, or most probabe sde. The rench proverb
Le meu est I ennem du ben, s perfecty appcabe to. the
practca effects of these two systems, as they are observed n
pan.
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24
L TT P P0M P I .
wth whch I am acquanted, ether by sght or
descrpton.
It s mpossbe to convey n words an adequate
dea of archtectura grandeur. The dmensons
of a tempe do not go beyond a certan pont n
augmentng the ma|esty of effect. tempe may
be so ggantc as to make the worshppers mere
pgmes. n mmense structure, though t may be
favourabe to contempaton, must greaty dmnsh
the effect of such soca rtes as am at the magna-
ton through the senses. I have been tod by a
natve of ths town, who vsted Pome, and on
whose taste and |udgment I greaty depend, that
the servce of the Passon-week at ant Peter s,
does not produce a stronger effect on the mnd than
that of our Cathedra. If ths mpresson dd not
arse from the power of eary habt, I shoud ac-
count for t from the e cessve magntude of the
frst tempe n Chrstendom. The practce, aso,
of confnng the most strkng and soemn cere-
mones to the tne Chape seems to shew that the
Pomans fnd the Church of ant Peter unfavour-
abe to the dspay of regous pomp. I sha add,
though fearfu of venturng too far upon a sub|ect
wth whch I am but sghty acquanted, that the
ancents appear to have been carefu not to d-
mnsh the effect of ther pubc worshp by the
too arge dmensons of the tempes.
The sze of our Cathedra seems to me happy
adapted to the ob|ect of the budng. Three hun-
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L TT P P0M P I . 247
dred and nnety-eght feet ong by two hundred
and nnety-one broad the breadth dstrbuted nto
fve ases, formed by one hundred and four arches,
of whch those of the centre are one hundred and
thrty-four feet hgh, and the rest nnety-s re-
move the mts of an undvded structure enough
to requre that effort of the eye and pause of the
mnd before we conceve t as a whoe, whch e -
ctes the dea of grandeur. Ths, I beeve, s the
mpresson whch a tempe shoud produce. To
am at more s to forget the soemn performances
for whch the structure s ntended. Let the house
of prayer, when sotary, appear so ampe as not to
e cude a snge suppant n a popuous town yet
et the throng be vsbe on a soemn feast. Let
the oftness of the ases soften the nose of a movng
muttude nto a gente and contnuous rustng
but et me hear the voce of the sngers and the
peas of the organ returned n deep echoes not
ost n the too dstant vauts.
The smutaneous mpresson of archtectura
and rtua magnfcence produced at the Cathedra
of eve s, I conceve, dffcut to be rvaed. The
pars are not so massve as to obstruct the sght at
every turn and were the nfuence of modern taste
strong enough to preva over the canonca vanty
whch bocks up the mdde of every Cathedra wth
the cumsy and absurd ncosure of the chor, t
woud be dffcut to magne a more strkng vew
than that whch our Church presents on Hoy
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248 L TT P P0M P I .
Thursday. In one respect, and that a most mport-
ant one, t has the advantage over ant Peter s at
Pome. The scene of fth and rreverence whch,
accordng to traveers, sometmes dsgusts the eye
and revots the mnd at the Church of the atcan
those crowds of peasants and beggars, eatng,
drnkng, and seepng, on Chrstmas eve, wthn the
precncts of the tempe are not to be seen at eve.
0ur Church, though amost thronged day and nght
on the prncpa festvas, s not profaned by any
e terna mark of ndevoton. The strctest watch
s kept by members of the chapter apponted for
that purpose, who, attended by ther vergers, go
ther rounds for the preservaton of order. The
e cuson of every knd of seats from the Church,
though rather nconvenent for the peope, prevents
ts beng made a oungng-pace and, besdes a-
owng the beautfu marbe pavement to appear
unbroken, avods that dsma ook of an empty
theatre, whch benches or pews gve to churches
n the ntervas of dvne servce.
ary on Pam- unday the meanchoy sound of
the Passon-be announces the begnnng of the
soemntes for whch the fast of Lent s ntended
to prepare the mnd. Ths be s one of the argest
whch are made to revove upon pvots. It s
moved by means of two ong ropes, whch, by
swngng the be nto a crcuar moton, twne
genty at frst, round the massve arms of a cross,
of whch the be forms the foot, and the head ts
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L TT P P0M P I .
24
counterpose. men then draw back the ropes
t the enormous machne conceves a suffcent
mpetus to co them n an opposte drecton and
thus aternatey, as ong as rngng s requred. To
gve ths be a tone approprate to the sombre cha-
racter of the season, t has been cast wth severa
arge hoes dsposed. n a crce round the top a
contrvance whch, wthout dmnshng the vbra-
ton of the meta, prevents the dstnct formaton of
any musca note, and converts the sound nto a
dsma cangour.
The chapter, consstng of about eghty resdent
members, n ther chora robes of back sk wth
ong trans and hoods, preceded by the nferor m-
nsters, by thrty cergymen, n surpces, whose
deep bass voces perform the pan or mbrosan
chaunt, and by the band of wnd-nstruments and
sngers, who e ecute the more artfca strans of
modern or counterpont musc move n a ong pro-
cesson round the farthest ases, each hodng a
branch of the orenta or date pam, whch, over-
toppng the heads of the assembed muttude, nod
gracefuy, and bend nto eegant curves at every
step of the bearers. or ths purpose, a number of
pam-trees are kept wth ther branches ted up to-
gether, that, by the want of ght, the more tender
shoots may preserve a decate yeow tnge. The
ceremony of bessng these branches s soemny
performed by the offcatng prest, prevousy to
the processon after whch they are sent by the
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250
L TT P P0M P I .
cergy to ther frends, who te them to the ron
bars of the bacones, to be, as they beeve, a pro-
tecton aganst ghtnng.
t the ong church-servce for ths day, the
organ s sent, the voces beng supported by
hautboys and bassoons. the atars are covered
wth purpe or grey curtans. The hoy vestments,
durng ths week, are of the frst-mentoned coour,
e cept on rday, when t s changed for back.
The four accounts of our avour s passon apponted
as gospes for ths day, Wednesday, Thursday, and
rday, are dramatzed n the foowng manner.
0utsde of the gt-ron rang, whch ncoses the
presbytery, are two arge pupts of the same ma-
teras, from one of whch, at the day hgh-mass,
the subdeacon chaunts the epste, as the deacon
does the gospe from the other. moveabe pat-
form wth a desk, s paced between the pupts on
the Passon-days and three prests or deacons, n
abes (the whte vestment, over whch the damatc
s worn by the atter, and the chasube by the for-
mer) appear on these eevated posts, at the tme
when the gospe shoud be sad. These offcatng
mnsters are chosen among the sngers n hoy
orders one a bass, another a tenor, and the thrd a
counter-tenor. The tenor chaunts the narratve,
wthout changng from the key note, and makes a
pause whenever he comes to the words of the nter-
ocutors mentoned by the vangest. In those
passages the words of our avour are sung by the
-
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L TT P P0M P I . 251
/
bass, n a soemn stran. The counter-tenor, n a
more ford stye, personates the nferor characters,
such as Peter, the Mad, and Pontus Pate. The
cres of the prests and the muttude, are m-
tated by the band of muscans wthn the chor.
P I0 -W D D .
The mass begns wthn a whte ve, whch con-
ceas the offcatng prest and mnsters, and the
servce proceeds n ths manner t the words
the ve of the tempe was rent n twan are
chaunted. t ths moment the ve dsappears, as
f by enchantment, and the ears of the congregaton
are stunned wth the nose of conceaed fre-works,
whch are meant to mtate an earthquake.
The evenng servce named Tnebas (darkness)
s performed ths day after sunset. The cathedra,
on ths occason, e hbts the most soemn and m-
pressve aspect. The hgh atar, conceaed be-
hnd dark grey curtans whch fa from the heght
of the cornces, s dmy ghted by s yeow-wa
candes, whe the goom of the whoe tempe s
broken n arge masses by wa torches, severay
f ed on each par of the centre ase, at about
one-thrd of ts ength from the ground. n ee-
gant candestck of brass, from ffteen to twenty
feet hgh, s paced, ths and the foowng evenng,
between the chor and the atar, hodng thrteen
candes, tweve of yeow, and one of beached wa ,
dstrbuted on the two sdes of the trange whch
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252 L TT P P0M P I .
termnates the machne. ach cande stands by a
brass fgure of one of the apostes. The whte
cande occupyng the ape , s aotted to the rgn
Mary. t the concuson of each of the tweve
psams apponted for the servce, one of the yeow
candes s e tngushed, t, the whte taper burn-
ng aone, t s taken down and conceaed behnd
the atar. Immedatey after the ceremony, the
Mserere, as we ca the ffty-frst psam, set, every
other year, to a new stran of musc, s sung n a
grand stye. Ths performance asts nether more
nor ess than one hour. t the concuson of the
ast verse the cergy break up abrupty wthout
the usua bessng, makng a thunderng nose by
cappng ther moveabe seats aganst the frame of
the stas, or knockng ther ponderous brevares
aganst the boards, as the Pubrc drects.
THUP D I TH P I0 W .
The ceremones of the hgh mass (the ony one
whch s pubcy performed on ths and the ne t
day) beng especay ntended as a remembrance
of the ast supper, are, very appropratey, of a
m ed character a spendd commemoraton whch
eads the mnd from grattude to sorrow. The ser-
vce, as t proceeds, rapdy assumes the deepest
hues of meanchoy. The bes, whch were |on-
ng n one |oyous pea from every steepe, cease at
once, producng a pecuar heavy stness, whch
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L TT P P0M P I .
253
none can conceve but those who have ved n a
popuous pansh town, ong enough to ose the
conscous sense of that perpetua tnkng whch
agtates the ear durng the day, and great part of
the nght.
host, consecrated at the mass, s carred wth
great soemnty to a temporary structure caed
the Monument, erected n every church wth
more or ess spendour, accordng to the weath of
the estabshment. There t s deposted n a sver
urn, generay shaped ke a sepuchre, the key of
whch, hangng from a god chan, s commtted
by the prest to the care of one of the most respect-
abe nhabtants of the parsh, who wears t round
hs neck as a badge of honour, t the ne t morn-
ng. The key of the Cathedra Monument s en-
trusted to the archbshop, f present, or to the dean
n hs absence.
The strkng effect of the ast-mentoned struc-
ture s not easy conceved. It fs up the space
between four arches of the nave, rsng n fve
bodes to the roof of the tempe. The coumns of
the two ower ters, whch, ke the rest of the
monument, mtate whte marbe fetted wth
god, are hoow, aowng the numerous at-
tendants who take care of the ghts that cover t
from the ground to the very top, to do ther duty
durng four-and-twenty hours, wthout any ds-
turbance or unseemy buste. More than three
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254
L TT P P0M P I .
thousand pounds of wa , besdes one hundred and
s ty sver amps, are empoyed n the um-
naton.
The god casket set wth |ewes, whch contans
the host, es deposted n an eegant tempe of
massve sver, weghng fve hundred and ten
marks, whch s seen through a baze of ght, on
the pedment of the monument. Two members of
the chapter n ther chora robes, and s nferor
prests n surpces, attend on ther knees before
the shrne, t they are reeved by an equa num-
ber of the same casses, at the end of every hour.
Ths act of adoraton s performed wthout nter-
rupton from the moment of depostng the host n
the casket t that of takng t out the ne t morn-
ng. The cathedra, as we as many others of the
weathest churches, s kept open and umnated
the whoe nght.
0ne of the pubc sghts of the town, on ths
day, s the spendd cod dnner whch the arch-
bshop gves to tweve paupers, n commemoraton
of the postes. The dnner s to be seen ad out
on tabes, fng up two arge rooms n the paace.
The tweve guests are competey cothed at the
e pense of ther host and havng partaken of a
more homey dnner n the ktchen, are furnshed
wth arge baskets to take away the spendd com-
mons aotted to each n separate dshes, whch
they se to the gourmands of the town. ach,
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L TT P P0M P I .
255
besdes, s aowed to dspose of hs napkn, cu-
rousy made up nto the fgure of some brd or
quadruped, whch peope buy both as ornaments to
ther chna cupboards, and as specmens of the
perfecton to whch some of our poorer nuns have
carred the art of patng.
t two n the afternoon the archbshop, attended
by hs chapter, repars to the Cathedra, where he
performs the ceremony, whch, from the noton of
ts beng teray en|oned by our avour, s caed
the Mandatum. The tweve paupers are seated on
a patform erected before the hgh atar and the
preate, strpped of hs sk robes, and kneeng
successvey before each, washes ther feet n a
arge sver bason.
bout ths tme the processons, known by the
name of Cofradas, (Confraterntes) begn to move
out of the dfferent churches to whch they are at-
tached. The head of the poce apponts the hour
when each of these pageants s to appear n the
square, where stand the Town Ha, and the ud-
enca or Court of |ustce. rom thence ther route
to the Cathedra, and out of t, to a certan pont,
s the same for a. These streets are ned by two
rows of spectators of the ower casses, the wndows,
beng occuped by those of a hgher rank. n
order s prevousy pubshed by the town-crer,
drectng the nhabtants to decorate ther wndows,
whch they do by hangng out the showy sk and
chntz counterpanes of ther beds. The proces-
sons themseves, e cept one whch en|oys the pr-
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25
L TT P P0M f .
vege of paradng the town n the dead of nght,
have tte to attract the eye or affect the magna-
ton. Ther chef ob|ect s to convey groups of
fgures, as arge as fe, representng dfferent scenes
of our avour s passon.
There s somethng remarkabe n the estabshed
and characterstc marks of some fgures. The
|ews are dstngushed by ong aqune noses.
ant Peter s competey bad. The dress of the
poste |ohn s green, and that of |udas Iscarot
yeow and so ntmatey assocated s ths crcum-
stance wth the dea of the trator, that t has
brought that coour nto unversa dscredt. It s,
probaby, from ths crcumstance (though yeow
may have been aotted to |udas from some more
ancent pre|udce,) that the Inquston has adopted
t for the anbentto, or coat of nfamy, whch per-
sons convcted of heresy are compeed to wear.
The red har of |udas, ke Peter s badness, seems
to be agreed upon by a the panters and scuptors
of urope. |udas har s a usua name n pan
and a smar appeaton, t shoud seem, was used
n ngand n hakspeare s tme. Hs har, says
Posand, n s you ke t, s of the dssembng
coour: to whch Cea answers omethng
browner than |udas s.
The mdnght processon derves consderabe
effect from the stness of the hour, and the dress
of the attendants on the sacred mage. one are
admtted to ths regous act but the members of
that fraternty generay young men of fashon.
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L TT P P0M P I .
25/
They a appear n a back tunc, wth a broad bet
so contrved as to gve the dea of a ong rope ted
tght round the body a method of penance com-
mony practsed n former tmes. The face s co-
vered wth a ong back ve, fang from a sugar-
oaf cap three feet hgh. Thus arrayed, the nomna
pentents advance, wth sent and measured steps,
n two nes, draggng a tran s feet ong, and
hodng aoft a wa -cande of tweve pounds, whch
they rest upon the hp-bone, hodng t obquey
towards the vacant space between them. The
ves, beng of the same stuff wth the cap and tunc,
woud absoutey mpede the sght but for two sma
hoes, through whch the eyes are seen to geam,
addng no sma effect to the dsma appearance of
such strange fgures. The peasure of appearng
n a dsguse, n a country where masquerades are
not toerated by the Government, s a great n-
ducement to our young men for subscrbng to ths
regous assocaton. The dsguse, t s true, does
not n the east rea the rues of strct decorum
whch the ceremony requres yet the mock pen-
tents thnk themseves repad for the fatgue and
troube of the nght by the fresh mpresson whch
they e pect to make on the aready won hearts of
ther mstresses, who, by preconcerted sgnas, are
enabed to dstngush ther overs, n spte of the
ves and the unformty of the dresses.
It s scarcey forty years snce the dsgustng e -
hbton of peope streamng n ther own bood,
s
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258
L TT P P0M P I .
was dscontnued by an order of the Government.
These pentents were generay from among the
most debauched and abandoned of the ower casses.
They appeared n whte nen pettcoats, ponted
whte caps and ves, and a |acket of the same
coour, whch e posed the naked shouders to
vew. Havng, prevousy to ther |onng the pro-
cesson, been scarfed on the back, they beat them-
seves wth a cat-o -nne-tas, makng the bood
run down to the skrts of ther garment. It may
be easy conceved that regon had no share n
these vountary nfctons. There was a noton
afoat that ths act of penance had an e ceent
effect on the consttuton and whe vanty was
concerned n the appause whch the most boody
fageaton obtaned from the vugar, a st stronger
passon ooked forward to the rresstbe mpresson
t produced on the strappng bees of the ower
ranks.
G00D PID .
The crowds of peope who spent the evenng
and part of the nght of Thursday n vstng the
numerous churches where the host s entombed,
are st seen, though greaty thnned, performng
ths regous ceremony, t the begnnng of servce
at nne. Ths s, perhaps, the most mpressve of
any used by the Church of Pome. The atars,
whch, at the end of yesterday s mass, were pub-
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L TT P P0M P I . 25
cy and soemny strpped of ther coths and rch
tabe-hangngs by the hands of the prest, appear
n the same state of dstressed neggence. o
musca sound s heard, e cept the deep-toned
voces of the psam, or pan chaunt sngers. fter
a few preparatory prayers, and the dramatzed hs-
tory of the Passon, aready descrbed, the offcatng
prest, (the archbshop at the cathedra) n a pan
abe or whte tunc, takes up a wooden cross s or
3even feet hgh, whch, ke a other crosses, has
for the ast two weeks of Lent been covered wth
a purpe ve and standng towards the peope,
before the mdde of the atar, graduay uncovers
the sacred embem, whch both the cergy and aty
worshp upon ther knees. The preate s then
unshod by the assstant mnsters, and takng the
cross upon hs rght shouder, as our avour s re-
presented by panters on hs way to Cavary, waks
aone from the atar to the entrance of the presby-
tery or chance, and ays hs burden upon two
cushons. fter ths, he moves back some steps,
and approachng the cross wth three prostratons,
ksses t, and drops an obaton of a pece of money,
nto a sver dsh. The whoe chapter, havng gone
through the same ceremony, form themseves n
two nes, and repar to the monument, from whence
the offcatng prest conveys the deposted host to
the atar, where he communcates upon t wthout
consecratng any wne. Here the servce term-
nates abrupty a candes and amps are e tn-
s 2 -
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2 0
L TT P P0M P I .
gushed and the tabernace, whch throughout the
year contans the sacred wafers, beng eft open,
every ob|ect bespeaks the desoate and wdowed
state of the church, from the death of the avour
to hs resurrecton.
The ceremones of Good- rday beng short and
performed at an eary hour, both the gay and the
devout woud be at a oss how to spend the reman-
der of the day but for the grotesque Passon er-
mons of the suburbs and neghbourng vages
and the more soemn performance known by the
name of Tres Horas three hours.
The practce of contnung n medtaton from
tweve to three o cock of ths day the tme whch
our avour s supposed to have hung on the cross
was ntroduced by the pansh |esuts, and par-
takes of the mpressve character whch the mem-
bers of that order had the art to mpart to the re-
gous practces by whch they chershed the devo-
tona sprt of the peope. The church where the
three hours are kept, s generay hung n back,
and made mpervous to day-ght. arge cru-
cf s seen on the hgh atar, under a back canopy,
wth unbeached wa -candes, whch cast a
sombre gmmerng on the rest of the church. The
femaes of a ranks occupy, as usua, the centre of
the nave, squattng or kneeng on the matted
ground, and addng to the dsma appearance of
the scene, by the coour of ther ves and dresses.
|ust as the cock strkes tweve, a prest n hs
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L TT P P0M P I . . 2C1
coak and cassock ascends the pupt, and devers a
preparatory address of hs own composton. He
then reads the prnted Medtaton on the even
Words, or entences spoken by |esus on the cross,
aottng to each such a porton of tme as that,
wth the nterudes of musc whch foow each of
the readngs, the whoe may not e ceed three
hours. The musc s generay good and appro-
prate, and, f a suffcent band can be coected,
we repays to an amateur the nconvenence of a
crowded church, where, from the want of seats,
the mae part of the congregaton are obged ether
to stand or knee. It s, n fact, one of the best
works of Haydn, composed, a short tme ago, for
some gentemen of Cadz, who shewed both ther
taste and beraty n thus procurng ths master-
pece of harmony for the use of ther country. It
has been atey pubshed n Germany, under the
tte of ette Paroe.
very part of the performance s so managed
that the cock strkes three about the end of the
medtaton, on the words It s fnshed. The de-
scrpton of the e prng avour, powerfuy drawn
by the orgna wrter of the Tres Horas, can
hardy fa to strke the magnaton when stened
to under the nfuence of such musc and scenery
and when, at the frst stroke of the cock, the prest
rses from hs seat, and n a oud and mpassoned
voce, announces the consummaton of the awfu
and mysterous sacrfce, on whose panfu and
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2 2 L TT P P0M P I .
boody progress the mnd has been dweng so
ong few hearts can repe the mpesson, and st
fewer eyes can concea t. Tears bathe every cheek,
and sobs heave every femae bosom. fter a part-
ng address from the pupt, the ceremony concudes
wth a pece of musc, where the powers of the
great composer are magnfcenty dspayed n the
mtaton of the dsorder and agtaton of nature
whch the vangests reate.
The Passon ermons for the popuace mght be
taken for a parody of the Three Hours. They are
generay devered, n the open ar, by frars of the
Mendcant 0rders, n those parts of the cty and
suburbs whch are chefy, f not e cusvey, nha-
bted by the ower casses. uch gay young men,
however, as do not scrupe to reeve the duness of
Good- rday wth a rde, and fee no danger of e -
posng themseves by any unseasonabe aughter,
nduge not unfrequenty n the froc of attendng
one of the most compete and perfect sermons of
ths knd, at the neghbourng vage of Caste|a.
moveabe pupt s paced before the church
door, from whch a frar, possessed of a stentoran
voce, devers an mproved hstory of the Passon,
such as was reveaed to ant Brdget, a rancscan
nun, who, from the dctaton of the rgn Mary,
has eft us a most mnute and crcumstanta ac-
count of the fe and death of Chrst and hs
mother. Ths yeary narratve, however, woud
have ost most of ts nterest but for the scenc
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L TT P P0M P I .
ustratons whch keep up the e pectaton and
rvet the attenton of the audence. It was for-
mery the custom to ntroduce a vng ant Peter
a character whch beonged by a natura and n-
aenabe rght to the badest head n the vage -
who acted the poste s dena, swearng by Chrst,
he dd not know the man. Ths edfyng part
of the performance s omtted at Caste|a though
a practsed performer crows wth such a shr and
natura note as must be answered wth a chaenge
by every cock of sprt n the neghbourhood. The
foursh of a trumpet announces, n the seque, the
pubcaton of the sentence passed by the Poman
governor and the town crer devers t wth ega
precson, n the manner t s practsed n pan,
before an e ecuton. Hardy has the ast word
been uttered, when the preacher, n a frantc pas-
son, gves the crer the e drect, cursng the tongue
that has uttered such basphemes. He then n-
vtes an ange to contradct both Pate and the
|ews : when, obedent to the orator s desre, a boy
gaudy dressed, and furnshed wth a par of gt
pasteboard wngs, appears at the wndow, and pro-
cams the true verdct of Heaven. ometmes n
the course of the preacher s narratve, an mage of
the rgn Mary s made to meet that of Chrst, on
hs way to Cavary, both takng an affectonate eave
n the street. The appearance, however, of the
Caa, madta engua, the usua e camaton whch
stops the crer, has become a |ocuar e presson n ndausa.
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2 4
L TT P P0M P I .
rgn bearng a handkerchef to coect a sum for
her son s bura, s never omtted, both because t
mets the whoe femae audence nto tears, and
because t produces a good coecton for the con-
vent. The whoe s cosed by the Descendmento,
or unnang a crucf as arge as fe from the cross
an operaton performed by two frars, who, n the
character of |oseph of rmathea and codemus,
are seen wth adders and carpenters toos, ettng
down the |onted fgure, to be paced on a ber and
carred nto the church n the form of a funera.
I have carefuy gded over such parts of ths
absurd performance as woud shock many an ng-
sh reader even n narratve. et such s the
strange m ture of superstton and profaneness n
the peope for whose gratfcaton these scenes are
e hbted, that though any attempt to e pose the
ndecency of these shows woud rouse ther zea
to the knfe, I cannot venture to transate the
|okes and saes of wt that are frequenty heard
among the pansh peasantry upon these sacred
topcs.
TUPD B 0P T P.
I have not been abe to ascertan the reason why
the Poman Cathoc ceebrate the resurrecton ths
mornng, wth an antcpaton of neary four and
twenty hours, and yet contnue the fast t md-
nght or the begnnng of unday. Ths practce
s, I beeve, of hgh antquty.
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L TT P P0M P I .
2 5
The servce begns ths mornng wthout ether
the sound of bes or of musca nstruments. The
Pascha Cande s seen by the north-sde of the
atar. But, before I menton the sze of that used
at our cathedra, I must protest aganst a charges
of e aggeraton. It s, n fact, a par of wa ,
nne yards n heght, and thck n proporton,
standng on a reguar marbe pedesta. It weghs
eghty arrobas, or two thousand pounds, of tweve
ounces. Ths cande s cast and panted new, every
year the od one beng broken to peces on the
aturday precedng Whtsunday, the day when
part of t s used for the consecraton of the bap-
tsma font. The sacred torch s ghted wth the
new fre, whch ths mornng the prest strkes out
of a fnt, and burns durng servce t scenson-
day. chorster n hs surpce cmbs up a gt-
ron rod, furnshed wth steps ke a fag-staff, and
havng the top raed n, so as to admt of a seat
on a eve wth the end of the cande. rom ths
crows nest, the young man ghts up and trms the
wa par, drawng off the meted wa wth a arge
ron ade.
Hgh mass begns ths day behnd the great ve,
whch for the two ast weeks n Lent covers the
atar. fter some preparatory prayers, the prest
strkes up the hymn Gora n e cess Deo. t ths
moment the ve fes off, the e poson of freworks
n the upper gaeres reverberates n a thousand
echoes from the vauts of the church, and the four-
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2
L TT P P0M P I .
and-twenty arge bes of ts tower, awake, wth
ther dscordant though gaddenng sounds,- those
of the one hundred and forty-s steepes whch
ths regous town boasts of. brsk frng of
musketry, accompaned by the howng of the n-
numerabe dogs, whch, uncamed by any master,
ve and mutpy n our streets, adds strength and
varety to ths unversa dn: The frng s drected
aganst severa stuffed fgures, not unke the Guy
awkes of the ffth of ovember whch are seen
hangng by the neck on a rope, e tended across the
east frequented streets. It s then that the pous
rage of the peope of eve s vented aganst the
archtrator |udas, whom they annuay hang, shoot,
draw and quarter n effgy.
The church servce ends n a processon about
the ases. The prest bears the host n hs hands,
vsbe through gass, as a pcture wthn a meda-
on. The sudden change from the goomy ap-
pearance of the church and ts mnsters, to the
smpe and |oyous character of ths processon, the
very name of Pasqua orda, the fowery Passover,
and, more than the name, the fowers themseves,
whch we-dressed chdren, m ed wth the censer-
bearers, scatter on the ground, crowd the mnd
and heart wth the deas, hopes, and feengs of
renovated fe, and gve to ths ceremony, even for
those who dsbeeve the persona presence n the
host, of a Dety trumphant over death a character
of ne pressbe tenderness.
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L TT P P0M P I .
2 7
M CP0 .
The rura custom of eectng a May ueen among
the country bees s, I understand, st practsed
n some parts of pan. The name of Maa, gven
to the handsomest ass of the vage, who, de-
corated wth garands of fowers, eads the dances
n whch the young peope spend the day, shews
how tte that ceremony has vared snce the tme
of the Pomans. The vagers, n other provnces,
decare ther ove by pantng, durng the precedng
nght, a arge bough or a sapng, decked wth
fowers, before the doors of ther sweethearts.
s most of our ancent church festvas were
contrved as substtutes for the Pagan rtes, whch
the Chrstan presthood coud not otherwse era-
dcate, we st have some remnants of the sane
tfed May-poe n the tte crosses, whch the
chdren ornament wth fowers, and pace upon
tabes, hodng as many ghted tapers as, from
the contrbutons of ther frends, they can afford
to buy.
I have heard that the chdren at Cambrdge
dress up a fgure caed the May-ady, and settng
t upon a tabe, beg money of the passengers. The
dfference between ths and the anaogous pansh
custom arose, n a probabty, from the respec-
tve prevaence n ether country of the May-poe,
or the Maa. fgure of the rgn, whch the
Peformaton has reduced to a nameess as we as
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2 8 L TT P P0M BP I .
shapeess puppet, took pace of the atter, whe
the cross was empoyed to bansh the former. I
am ncned to beeve that the umnated grottos
of oyster-shes, for whch the London chdren beg
about the streets, are the representatves of some
Cathoc embem, whch had ts day as a subs-
ttute for a more cassca do. I was struck n
London wth the smarty of the pea whch the
chdren of both countres urge n order to obtan
a hafpenny. The t s but once a year, sr
often remnded me of the
La Cruz de Mayo
que no come n bebe
en todo e ano.
The Cross of May
Pemember pray,
Whch fasts a year and feasts a day.
C0PPU CHPI TI.
Ths s the ony day n the year when the con-
secrated Host s e posed, about the streets, to the
gaze of the adorng muttude. The trumpha
character of the processon whch ssues forth from
the prncpa church of every town of note n the
kngdom, and a certan dash of btter and threaten-
ng zea whch st es dsgused under the ardent
and boundess devoton dspayed on ths festva,
shew but too ceary the sprt of defance whch
suggested t n the heat of the controverses upon
the rea presence. It s wthn my memory that
-
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L TT P P0M P I .
2(30
the taste for dgnty and decorum whch ths Me-
tropotan Church has ever evnced n the per-
formance of regous worshp, put an end to the
bosterous and unbecomng appendages whch an
nveterate custom had anne ed to ths pageant.
t a short dstance n front of the processon
appeared a group of seven ggantc fgures, mae
and femae, whose dresses, contrved by the most
skfu taors and mners of the town, reguated
the fashon at eve for the ensung season.
strong man beng conceaed under each of the
gants and gantesses, the gapng muttude were
amused at certan ntervas wth a very cumsy
dance, performed by the fgures, to the sound of
the ppe and tabor. e t to the Brobdgnag
dancers, and takng precedence of a, there fo-
owed, on a moveabe stage, the fgure of a Hydra
encrcng a caste, from whch, to the great deght
of a- the chdren of eve, a puppet not unke
Punch, dressed up n a scaret |acket trmmed wth
morrce-bes, used often to start up and havng
performed a knd of wd dance, vanshed agan
from vew nto the body of the monster. The
whoe of ths compound fgure bore the name of
Tarasca, a word of whch I do not know ether
the meanng or dervaton. That these fgures
were aegorca no one can doubt who has any
knowedge of the pageants of the s teenth and
seventeenth centures. It woud be dffcut, how-
G
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270
L TT P P0M P I .
ever, wthout the hep of an ohscure tradton, to
guess that the gants n perrwgs and swords, and
the|r far partners n caps and pettcoats, were em-
bems of the seven deady sns. The Hydra, t
shoud seem, represented Heresy, guardng the
caste of chsm, where oy, symbozed by the
strange fgure n scaret, dspayed her supreme
command. Ths band of monsters was supposed
to be fyng n confuson before the trumphant
sacrament.
M ed wth the body of the processon, there
appeared three sets of dancers the aencanos,
or natves of the kngdom of aenca, who, n
ther natona costume of oose wastcoats, puffed
nen seeves, bound at the wrsts and ebows wth
rbbons of varous coours, and broad whte trow-
sers reachng ony to the knees, performed a
vey dance, mngng ther steps wth feats of
surprsng agty : after these foowed the sword-
dancers n the od marta fashon of the country :
and ast of a, the performers of an antquated
pansh dance I beeve the Chacona, dressed n
the natona garb of the s teenth century.
dance of the ast-mentoned descrpton, and
n a smar costume, s st performed before the
hgh atar n the presence of the chapter, at the
concuson of the servce on ths day and the
foowng se nnght. The dancers are boys of be
tween ten and fourteen, who, under the name of
G
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L TT P P0M P I . 271
ezes, are mantaned at the coege whch the
Cathedra supports for the educaton of the acoytes,
or nferor mnsters. These boys, accompaned by
a fu orchestra, sng a yrc composton n pansh,
whch, ke the Greek chorusses, conssts of two
or three systems of metres, to whch the dancers
move soemny, gong through a varety of fgures
n ther natura step, t, ranged at the concuson
of the song, n two nes facng each other as at
the outset, they end wth a gente caper, rattng
the castanets, whch htherto ay sent and con-
ceaed n ther hands. That ths grotesque per-
formance shoud be aowed to contnue, s, I be-
eve, owng to the prde whch ths chapter take
n the prvege, granted by the Pope to the dancers,
of wearng ther hats wthn vew of the conse-
crated host a berty whch the ng hmsef can-
not take, and whch, f I am not msed by report,
no one besdes can boast of, e cept the Dukes of
tamra, who, upon certan occasons, cap on
ther hat, at the eevaton of the host, and draw the
sword, as f shewng ther readness to gve a con-
cusve answer to any argument aganst transub-
stantaton.
The Corpus Chrst processon begns to move
out of the cathedra e acty at nne n the morn-
ng. It conssts n the frst pace of the forty
Ths name s, as far as I know, pecuar to eve. The
smarty of ts sound and that of szars used at Cambrdge,
seems to denote a common orgn n the two words.
G
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272
L TT P P0M I .
communtes of frars who have onvents n ths
town. They foow one another n two nes, ac-
cordng to the estabshed order of precedence.
The strangeness and varety of ther dresses, no
ess than ther coectve numbers, woud greaty
strke any one but a panard, to whom such
ob|ects are perfecty famar. e t appears the
ong tran of recs beongng to the Cathedra,
paced each by tsef on a sma stage moved by
one or more men conceaed under the rch drapery
whch hangs on ts sdes to the ground. ases of
god and sver, of dfferent shapes and szes, con-
tan the varous portons of the nestmabe treasure
whereof the foowng s an accurate cataogue:
tooth of ant Chrstopher.
n agate cup used at Mass by Pope ant Cement, the
mmedate successor of ant Peter.
n arm of ant Barthoomew.
head of one of eeven thousand vrgns.
Part of ant Peter s body.
Dtto of ant Lawrence.
Dtto of ant Base.
The bones of the ants ervandus and Germanus.
Dtto of ant orentus.
The phonsne tabes, eft to the Cathedra by ng
phonso the Wse, contanng three hundred recs.
sver bust of ant Leander, wth hs bones.
thorn from our avour s crown.
fragment of the true cross.
Last of a appears the body of prebendares and
canons, attended by ther nferor mnsters. uch,
G
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2
0
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2
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L TT P P0M P I .
27o
however, s the ength of the processon, and the
sow and soemn pace at whch t proceeds, that,
wthout a break n the nes, t takes a whoe hour
to eave the church. The streets, besdes beng
hung up wth more taste than for the processons of
the Passon Week, are shaded a the way wth a
thck awnng, and the pavement s strewed wth
rushes. n artce of the mtary code of pan
obges whatever troops are quartered n a town
where ths processon takes pace, to foow t under
arms and f suffcent n number, to ne the
streets through whch t s to pass.
Under a these crcumstances, the frst appear-
ance of the host n the streets s e ceedngy
mposng. ncrced by |ewes of the greatest
brancy, surrounded by ghted tapers and en-
throned on the massve, yet eegant tempe of
sver aready mentoned when descrbng the Mo-
nument, no sooner has t moved to the door of the
church than the bes announce ts presence wth a
deafenng sound, the bands of mtary musc m
ther anmatng notes wth the soemn hymns of
the sngers, couds of ncense rse before the movng
shrne, and the ear s thred by the oud voce of
command, and the cash of the arms whch the
kneeng soders strke down to the ground. When
the conceaed bearers of the shrne-f- present t at
the top of the ong streetwherethe route commences,
the muttudes whch crowd both the pavement and
ee page 253. t ee Letter II. p. 34.
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274
L TT P P0M P I .
wndows, fa prostrate n profound adoraton, wth-
out venturng to rse up t the ob|ect of ther awe
s out of sght. owers are often scattered from
the wndows, and the most beautfu nosegays adorn
the patform of the moveabe stage.
Cose behnd the host foows the archbshop,
surrounded by hs eccesastca retnue. 0ne of
hs chapans carres a arge doube cross of sver,
ndcatve of metropotan dgnty. The tran of
the purpe mante s supported by another cergy-
man. These, ke the rest of the preate s attendants
and pages, are young men of famy, who dsdan
not ths knd of servce, n the e pectaton of hgh
church preferment. But what gves a ths state
the most une pected fnsh s an nferor mnster
n hs surpce bearng a crcuar fan of rchy em-
brodered sk about two feet n dameter, and at-
tached to a sver rod s feet n ength. t a con-
venent dstance from the archbshop ths fan s con-
stanty waved, whenever durng the summer months
he attends the cathedra servce, thus reevng hm
from the oppressve effects of hs robes under the
burnng sun of ndausa. Ths custom s, I beeve,
pecuar to eve.
sant |ohn s eve.
eengs far removed from those of devoton
preva n the ceebraton of the Baptst s festva.
Whether t s the nvtng temperature of a md-
summer nght, or some ancent custom connected
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L TT P P0M P I . 275
wth the present evenng, ant |ohn, says the
pansh proverb, sets every gr a gaddng. The
pubc waks are crowded after sunset, and the e -
cusve amusement of ths nght, frtaton, or n the
ndausan phrase, pear a Pava, (puckng the
hen-turkey) begns as soon as the star- ght of a
summer sky, unbroken by the parta gare of
amps, enabes the dfferent groups to m wth a
berty approachng that en|oyed n a masquerade.
othng n ths knd of amusement posseses more
zest than the chat through the ron bars of the
ower wndows, whch begns about mdnght.
oung ades, who can compose ther mamas to
seep at a convenent hour, gde unperceved to the
ower part of the house, and sttng on the wndow-
s, behnd the attce-work, whch s used n ths
country nstead of bnds, wat, n the true sprt of
adventure, (f not pre-engaged to a du, common-
pace matrmona preude,) for the chance sparks,
who, mosty n dsguse, wak the streets from
tweve t dawn. uch, however, as the mere ove
of mrth nduces to pass the nght at the wndows,
generay engage another femae companon, a sster,
a frend, and often a favourte mad, to take a share
n the conversaton, and by a change of characters
to puzze ther out-of-doors vsters. These, too,
when not serousy engaged, wak about n partes,
each assumng such a character as they consder
themseves most abe to support. 0ne pretends to
t 2
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27G
L TT P P0M P I .
be a farmer |ust arrved from the country, another
a poor mechanc, ths a foregner speakng broken
pansh, that a Gaego, makng ove n the st ess
ntegbe daect of hs provnce. The gentemen
must come provded wth no ess a stock of sweet-
meats (whch from the crcumstance of beng foded
each separatey n a pece of paper, are caed Pape-
os) than of vey sma tak and wt. def-
cency n the atter s unpardonabe so that a bore,
or Ma|adero, f not ready to qut the post when
bdden, s soon eft to contempate the out-sde of
the wndow-shutters. The habtua dstance at
whch the ower casses are kept from those above
them, prevents any dsagreeabe meddng on ther
part and the ades who nduge n these frocs,
fee perfecty safe from ntruson and mpertnence.
The saunterng about the feds, practsed by the
popuace of Madrd, on the same nght, s there
caed Coger a erbena gatherng ervan an
appeaton evdenty derved from an ancent super-
stton whch attrbuted preternatura powers to
that pant when gathered at tweve o cock on t.
|ohn s ve. The nocturna rambes of the present
tmes, much as they mght aarm the guardans of
pubc moras, f such an offce e sted among us,
need not gve any uneasness on the score of wtch-
craft to the Peverend Inqustors.
word derved from the verb Ma|ar, to beat n a mortar.
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L TT P P0M P I . 277
I T B PTH0L0M W.
The commemoraton of ths poste takes pace
on the 24th of ugust. It s not, however, to
record any e terna crcumstance connected wth
ths church festva whch, n fact, s scarcey
dstngushed by any pecuar soemnty that I
take notce of t, but for a prvate supersttous
practce whch strkes me as a most curous mo-
dfcaton of one used by the pous housewves n
the days of ugustus.
Intermttent fevers, especay the Tertan and
uartan, are very common n most parts of n-
dausa. The season when they chefy attack the
nhabtants, s summer and whether the un-
bounded use, whch a sorts of peope, but par-
tcuary the poor, make of grapes and meons,
contrbutes to the producton of the dsease, or
whether the mere concdence of the two facts s,
as usua, taken for cause and effect t s an es-
tabshed opnon n ths part of the country that,
f frut s not the orgna source of the ague, an
abstnence from that knd of food s ndspensabe
to avod a reapse nto that treacherous compant.
That there shoud be a partcuar ant, to su-
perntend the medca department of curng the
ague, s so perfecty consstent wth the Cathoc
notons, that a defcency on that pont woud more
surprse me than to fnd a toe not under the n-
fuence of some heaveny aspect n the o te-
arum, whch was one of my wonders n ngand.
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278
LtTT P P0M P I .
That provnce, n fact, s aotted to ant Bar-
thoomew. ow, nne-pence s a suffcent nduce-
ment for any of our sons of scuapus to mount
hs mue as we as hs wg, and dose you wth the
most compound eectuary he s master of but how
to fee a supernatura doctor, woud be a puzzng
queston, were t not that tradton teaches the
method of proptatng every ndvdua mentoned
n the caendar. ach ant has a pecuar fancy
from ant nthony of Padua, who w often deay
the performance of a mrace t you punge hm
nto a we, or na hs prnt topsy-turvy upon the
wa, to ant Pasqua Bayon, who s readest to
attend such as accompany ther pettons wth
some vey steps and a fna caper. s to ant
Barthoomew, nothng w nduce hm to cure an
ague but a vow to abstan, on the day of hs fes-
tva, from a food e cept bread and frut the
very means whch, but for hs mracuous nter-
ference, woud, accordng to common opnon,
cause ether a return, or an aggravaton of the
compant.
Mark, now, the vow empoyed by the Poman
matrons for the cure of ntermttents. It s
recorded by Horace, and thus transated by
rancs:
Her chd beneath a quartan fever es
or fu four months, when the fond mother cres,
ckness and heath are thne, a-powerfu |ove
Then, from my son ths dre dsease remove,
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L TT P P0M P I .
27
nd when your prests thy soemn fast procam,
aked the boy sha stand n Tber s stream.
houd chance, or the physcan s art, uprase
Her nfant from the desperate dsease
The frantc dame sha punge her hapess boy,
Brng back the fever, and the chd destroy.
The e stence of Heathen supersttons adapted
to Chrstan worshp s too common to e cte sur-
prse nor s t any smarty n the e ternas of
the two practces I have |ust compared, that con-
sttutes ther anaogy. My mnd s struck aone by
the unchangeabe sprt of superstton, whch, at-
trbutng n a ages and natons, our own passons
and feengs to supernatura bengs, endeavours to
obtan ther favour by fatterng ther vanty. Both
the ancent Poman and modern pansh vow for
the cure of the ague, seem to set at defance the
supposed and most probabe causes of the dsease,
from whch the devotees seek deverance as f to
secure to the patron detes the undoubted and fu
honour of the mrace.
|upter, ngentes qu das admsqte doores,
(Mater at puer menses |am qunque cubants),
rgda s puerum quartana requert, o
Mane, de quo tu ndcs |e|una, nudus
In Tber stabt. Casus, medcusve evar t
grum e precpt mater dera necabt
In geda f urn rpa, febrmque reducet.
Hor. at. L. 11.3.288.
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280 L TT P P0M P I .
D T CH D PP |UDIC D PP CTIC .
Havng mentoned the supersttous method used
n ths country for the cure of the ague, I wsh to
ntroduce a short account of some popuar pre-
|udces more or ess connected wth the prevaent
regous notons. I sha probaby add a few facts
under ths head, for no better reason than that I
-do not know how to cass them under any other.
There s an auson n Hudbras to an antquated
pece of gaantry whch I beeve may be us-
trated by a regous custom to whch I was some-
tmes sub|ected n my chdhood. The passage
runs thus:
I carve your name on barks of trees
Wth true ove-knots and fourshes,....
Drnk every etter on t n stum,
nd make t brsk Champagne become.
The atter compment s pad by sck persons to
the rgn Mary, n the hope of recoverng heath
through her ntercesson. n mage s worshpped
at one of the prncpa parsh churches n ths
town, under the tte of the rgn of Heath.
The charm of ths denomnaton draws numbers
to the sanctuary, whch, beng n the centre of the
weathest popuaton, derves consderabe spen-
dour from ther offerngs. In e change for these
they often receve a sheet of prnted paper contan-
ng at reguar ntervas the words ahs nfrmorum,
Hudbras, Part II. Canto .
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L TT P P0M P I .
281
n very sma type. In case of ness, one of the
nes s cut off, and, beng coed nto a sma ro,
the patent swaows t n a gass of water.
The room where a person es dangerousy ,
generay contans more recs and amuets than
the chmney-pece of an nvad, under the care of
a London apothecary, hods phas of a shapes
and szes. The frends of a ady near her confne-
ment, ve wth each other n procurng her every
knd of supernatura assstance for the tryng hour
when, strange to say, she s often dressed n the
epscopa robes of some sant, whch are supposed
to act most effectuay when n contact wth the
body of the dstressed pettoner. But whatever
patrons the ades may choose to mpore n those
crcumstances, there are two whose assstance, by
means of recs, pctures, or the appare of ther
mages, s never dspensed wth. The names of
these nvsbe accoucheurs are ant Paymundus
onnatus, and ant ncent errer. That the
former shoud be consdered as pecuary nterested
n such cases, havng, as hs addton mpes, been
e tracted from the womb of hs dead mother, s
perfecty cear and natura. But, errers sympathy
requres a sght e panaton.
. That sant a natve of aenca, and a monk
of the order of ant Domnc, possessed the gft
of mraces n such a degree, that he performed
them amost unconscousy, and not unfrequenty
n a sort of froc. Beng apped to, on a certan
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282 L TT P P0M P I .
occason, by a young marred ady, whom the dea
of approachng maternty kept n a state of con-
stant terror, the good-natured ant desred her to
dsmss her fears, as he was determned to take
upon hmsef whatever nconvenence or troube
there mght be n the case. ome weeks had
eapsed, when the good Monk, who had forgotten
hs engagement, was heard n the dead of nght
roarng and screamng n a manner so unusua, and
so tte becomng a professona ant, that he
drew the whoe communty to hs ce. othng,
for a tme, coud reeve the mysterous sufferngs,
and though he passed the rest of the nght as we
as coud be eocpected, the fear of a reapse woud
have kept hs affcted brethren n panfu suspense,
had not the gratefu husband of the tmd ady, who
was the cause of the uproar, taken an eary oppor-
tunty to return thanks for the unconscous devery
of hs consort. ant ncent, though accordng
to tradton perfecty unwng to stand a second
tme pro y for nervous ades, s, from a very
natura sympathy, constanty n readness to act
as the mae Lucna of the pansh matrons.
U P L 0 I T D M ID .
rom the brth to the death of a chd the pas-
sage s often so easy that I sha make t an apoogy
for the abruptness of the present transton. The
mora accountabeness of a human beng, as I have
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L TT P P0M P I .
283
observed before, does not, accordng to Cathoc
dvnes, begn t the seventh year consequenty
such as de wthout attanng that age, are, by the
effect of ther baptsm, ndubtaby entted to a
pace n heaven. The death of an nfant s there-
fore a matter of re|ocng to a but those n whose
bosoms nature speaks too oud to be controed by
argument. The frends who ca upon the pa-
rents, contrbute to aggravate ther btterness by
wshng them |oy for havng ncreased the number
of anges. The usua address on these occasons s
ngetos a Ceo Ltte nges to Heaven an
unfeeng compment, whch never fas to draw
a fresh gush of tears from the eyes of a mother.
very crcumstance of the funera s meant to force
|oy upon the mourners. The chd, dressed n
whte garments, and crowned wth a wreath of
fowers, s foowed by the offcatng prest n sk
robes of the same coour and the cergymen who
attend hm to the house from whence the funera
proceeds to the church, sng n |oyfu strans the
psam Laudate, puer, Domnum, whe the bes
are heard rngng a vey pea. The coffn, wth-
out a d, e poses to the vew the tte corpse
covered wth fowers, as four we-dressed chdren
bear t, amdst the ghted tapers of the cergy.
o back dress, no sgns of mournng whatever
are seen even among the nearest reatves the
servce at church bespeaks trumph, and the organ
m es ts envenng sounds wth the hymns, whch
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284
L TT P P0M P I .
thank death for snatchng a tender sou, when
through a sght and transent trbute of pan, t
coud obtan an e empton from the power of sor-
row. et no funeras are graced wth more tears
nor can drges and pententa mournngs produce
even a shadow of the tender meanchoy whch
sezes the mnd at the vew of the forma and
affected |oy wth whch a Cathoc nfant s ad n
hs grave.
young unmarred woman among us
s aowed her vrgn crante,
Her maden strewments, and the brngng home
0f be and bura.
In addton to the wreath of fowers, a pam-branch
s put nto a maden s hand an embem of vctory
aganst the aurements of ove, whch many a poor
far conqueror woud have wngy e changed for
a reguar defeat. They are dressed n every other
respect ke nuns, and the cofn s covered wth a
back vevet pa, as n a other funeras.
The precedng passage n Hamet begns wth
an auson to a very ancent custom, whch s st
observed n pan at the monumenta crosses
erected on the hghways to those who have pershed
by the hands of robbers.
or chartabe prayers,
herds, fnts, and pebbes, shoud be thrown on her.
Garands.
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L TT P P0M P I .
-285
Ths s teray done by every peasant when
passng one of those rude and meanchoy monu-
ments. heap of stones s aways observed at the
foot of the cross not, however, nstead of prayers,
as the passage woud seem to mpy, but as a tae
by whch the number of Paternosters sad by the
compassonate passengers, mght be reckoned. The
antquty of ths Chrstanzed custom appears, from
a passage n the Book of Proverbs, to be very great.
The proverb or sentence, transated as t s n the
margn of the ngsh Bbe, runs thus: s he
that putteth a precous stone n a heap, so s he
that gveth honour to a foo.
The Latn verson whch, you must know, s of
great antquty, and was made the bass of |erom s,
about the mdde of the fourth century, renders
ths proverb n a remarkabe manner. cut qu
mttt apdem n acervum Mercur ta qu trbut n-
spent honorem. s he that casts a stone on the
/eap of MerCury, c. c. ow, bearng n mnd
that stones are at ths day thrown upon certan
graves n pan that, accordng to the passage n
hakspeare, a smar custom seems to have pre-
vaed n other parts of urope and that |erom
beeved he rendered the sprt of the Hebrew pro-
verb by transatng the word whch the ngsh
Dvnes doubted, whether to construe s sng, or a
heap of stones, by the phrase, acervus Mercur a
Proverbs v. 8.
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28
L TT P P0M P I .
dety, whose statues were frequenty paced over se-
puchres among the Pomans bearng a ths n
mnd, I say, t appears to me that the custom of cover-
ng some graves wth stones thrown at random, must
have e sted n the tme of the wrter of the Pro-
verbs. Perhaps I may be aowed to con|ecture
that t orgnated n the punshment of stonng, so
common among the |ews that passengers fung
stones, as a mark of abhorrence, on the heap whch
hd the body of the crmna that the prmtve
Chrstans, many of whom were |ews, foowed the
same method of shewng ther horror of heathen
tombs, t those paces came to be known, n |e-
rom s tme, by the appeaton of heaps of Mercury
that modern Chrstans apped the same custom to
the graves of such as had been deemed unworthy
of consecrated ground and, fnay, that the fre-
quency of hghway robberes and murders n pan
detached the custom from the dea of crme, and
softened a mark of detestaton nto one of prayer
and ntercesson for the unfortunate vctm.
P I H CHPI TI M .
The e traordnary devoton of the Cathocs,
especay n ths country, to the rgn Mary, and
the noton, supported by the cergy, that as many
ants as have ther names gven to a chd at bap-
tsm, are, n some degree, engaged to take t under
ther protecton, occason a natona pecuarty
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L TT P P0M P I . . 287
not unworthy of remark. In the frst pace few
have ess than haf a dozen names entered n the
parsh regster, a st of whch s gven to the prest
that he may read them out n the act of chrsten-
ng the chd. It woud be dffcut ndeed, under
these crcumstances, for most peope to know e -
acty ther own names, especay f, ke mysef,
they have been favoured wth eeven. The custom
of the country, however, aows every ndvdua
to forget a but the frst n the st. In our devo-
ton to the rgn, we have htherto avoded the
strange soecsm of the rench Monseur Mare,
though amost every panard has Mara for a
second name.
The ttes gven to the nnumerabe mages of
the rgn Mary, whch suppy the usua names of
our femaes, mght occason the most udcrous
puns or msnomers, f habt had not dverted the
mnd from ther rea meanng. o names are
more common than ncarnacon, Incarnaton
Concepton, Concepton stacon, staton
Maravas, Marves Pega, Pue Doores, Pans
gustas, ngushes oedad, otude atv-
dad, atvty, c. 0ther ttes of the rgn af-
ford, however, more agreeabe assocatons. uch
are strea, tar urora mparo, Protecton
speranza, Hope aud, Heath Pastora, hep-
herdess Poco, Dew, c. But words, as t s
sad of the chameeon, take the coour of the ob-
|ects to whch they are attached and I have
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-288
L TT P P0M P I .
known Pans and otudes among our ndausans,
who, had they been more numerous, mght have
produced a revouton n the sgnfcatons of the
anguage.
CHPI TM .
nce no festva of any nterest takes pace be-
tween summer and ths season, t s aready tme to
concude these notes wth the e prng year.
It was the custom, thrty or forty years snce,
among fames of fortune, to prepare, for an a-
most pubc e hbton, one .or two rooms of the
house, where, upon a cumsy mtaton of rocks
and mountans, a great number of baby-houses and
cay fgures, representng the commonest actons
of fe, were paced amdst a muttude of amps and
tapers. haf runed stabe, surrounded by sheep
and catte, was seen n the front of the room, wth
the fgures of |oseph, Mary, and some shepherds,
kneeng n adoraton of the chd n the manger
an act whch an ass and an o mtated wth the
greatest composure. Ths coecton of puppets,
caed acmento, s st, though sedom ntended
for show, set up n many houses, both for the amuse-
ment and the regous gratfcaton of the famy
and ther more ntmate frends.
t the perod whch I have |ust mentoned, the
acmentos were made a prete t for coectng a
arge party, and passng severa nghts n dancng,
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L TT P P0M P I .
28
and some of the natona amusements descrbed n
the artce of Carnva. The rooms beng um-
nated after sunset, not ony the frends of the famy
were entted to en|oy the festvtes of the evenng,
but any genteman gvng hs name at the door,
mght ntroduce one or more ades, who, f but
known by sght to the master of the house, woud
be requested to |on n the amusements whch fo-
owed. These were sngng, dancng, and not un-
fcequenty, speeches, taken from the od pansh
pays, and known by the name of Peacones. Pe-
ctaton was consdered t atey as an accompsh-
ment both n maes and femaes and persons who
were known to be sked n that art, stood up at
the request of the company to dever a speech wth
a the gestcuaton of our od schoo of actng, |ust
as others gratfed ther frends by performng upon
an nstrument. sght refreshment of the Chrst-
mas cakes, caed 0 adres, and sweet wnes or
home-made queurs, was enough to free the house
from the mputaton of meanness : thus mrth and
socety were obtaned at a moderate e pense. But
the present acmentos sedom afford amusement
to strangers and wth the e cepton of sngng
caros to the sound of the zambomba, tte remans
of the od festvtes.
I must not, however, omt a descrpton of the
nosy nstrument whose no ess soundng name I
have |ust mentoned. It s genera n most parts
of pan at ths season, though never used at any
u
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2 0 L TT P P0M P I .
other. sender shoot of reed ( rundo Dona ) s
f ed n the centre of a pece of parchment, wthout
perforatng the skn, whch, softened by mosture,
s ted, ke a drum-head, round the mouth of a arge
earthen |ar. The parchment, when dry, acqures
a great tenson, and the reed beng sghty covered
wth wa , aows the cenched hand to gde up and
down, producng a deep hoow sound of the same
knd as that whch proceeds from the tambourne
when rubbed wth the mdde fnger.
The church servce on Chrstmas ve begns at
ten n the nght, and asts t fve n the mornng.
Ths custom s observed at every church n the
town nor does ther number, or the unseasonabe-
ness of the hour, eave the servce unattended n
any. The musc at the Cathedra s e ceent. It
s at present confned to part of the Latn prayers,
but was, t wthn a few years, used n a speces of
dramatc nterudes n the vugar tongue, whch
were sung, not acted, at certan ntervas of the
servce. These peces had the name of anccos,
from ano, a cown shepherds and shepherdesses
beng the nterocutors n these pastoras. The
words, prnted at the e pense of the Chapter, were
dstrbuted to the pubc, who st regret the oss
of the wt and humour of the wans of Bethehem.
The custom of the country requres a forma ca
between Chrstmas and Twefth-day, on a one s
acquantance and tabes are paced n the house
squares, or Patos, to receve the cards of the v--
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L TT P P0M P I .
2 1
sters. Presents of sweetmeats are common between
frends and patents send to ther medca at-
tendants the estabshed acknowedgment of a tur-
key so that Doctors n great practce open a knd
of pubc market for the dsposa of ther poutry.
These turkeys are drven n focks by gpseys, who
patenty wak n the rear of the ungovernabe pha-
an es, from severa parts of 0d Caste, and chefy
from aamanca. The march whch they perform
s of no ess than four hundred mes, and asts
about one haf of the year. The turkeys, whch
are bought from the farmers mere chckens, acqure
ther fu growth, ke your fashonabes, n trave-
ng, and seeng the word.
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2 2
L TT P P0M P I .
L TT P .
Madrd, 1807.
My remova to ths capta has been sudden and
une pected. My frend Leandro, from whom I am
become nseparabe, was advsed by hs physcans
to seek reef from a growng meanchoy the
effect of a morta averson to hs professona dutes,
and to the ntoerant regous system wth whch
they are connected n the freedom and dsspaton
of the court and I found t mpossbe to tear
mysef from hm.
The |ourney from eve to Madrd, a dstance of
about two hundred and s ty ngsh mes, s
usuay performed n heavy carrages drawn by s
mues, n the space of from ten to eeven days.
party of four persons s formed by the coachman,
(Mayora) who f es the day and hour for settng
out, arranges the ength of the stages, prescrbes
the tme for gettng up n the mornng, and even,
takes care that every passenger attends mass on a
unday, or any other church festva durng the
|ourney. s t was, however, of mportance not
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L TT P P0M P I .
2 3
to deay my frend s remova from eve, we chose
the more e pensve conveyance by postng, and
havng obtaned a passport, set off n an open and
haf foundered chase the usua vehces t wthn
thrty mes of Madrd.
ou w form some dea of our poce and go-
vernment, from the crcumstance of our beng
obged to take our passport, not for Madrd, but
aamanca, n order thus to smugge ourseves nto
the capta. The mnster of Graca y t/ustca, or
home department, Cabaero, one of the most w-
ng and odous nstruments of our arbtrary court,
beng annoyed by the muttude of pace-hunters,
whom we denomnate Pretendentes, who focked to
Madrd from the provnces has atey ssued an
order forbddng a persons whatever, to come to
the capta, uness they prevousy obtan a roya
cense. To awat the ng s peasure woud have
e posed us to great nconvenence, and probaby to
a postve dena. But as the mnster s order was
now two or three months od, a perod at whch
our court-aws begn to grow obsoete, and we dd
not mean to troube hs e ceency we trusted to uck
and our purse, as to any tte obstaces whch mght
arse from the nterference of nferor offcers.
I sha not detan you wth a descrpton of our
|ourney the deays at the post-houses our d-
mnshed haste at adepenas for the sake of ts
decous wne |ust as t s drawn from the mmense
earthen-|ars, where t s kept bured n the ground
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2 4
L TT P P0M P I .
and, fnay, the ugy but cose and tght post-
chases drawn by three mues abreast, whch are
used from ran|uez to Madrd. I do not ove des-
crpton, probaby because I cannot succeed n t.
ou w, therefore, have the goodness to appy for
a pcture of ths town (for I wsh you to remark
that t s not reckoned among our ctes) n Bur-
gong, Townsend, or some other professed traveer.
My narratve sha, as htherto, be mted to what
these gentemen were not key to see or under-
stand wth the accuracy and dstnctness of a natve.
The nfuence of the court beng unmted n
pan, no ob|ect deserves a coser e amnaton from
such as wsh to be acquanted wth the mora state
of ths country. I must, therefore, begn wth a
sketch of the man sources of that nfuence, care-
fuy e cudng every report whch has reached me
through any but the most respectabe channes, or
an absoute notorety. The fountan-head of power
and honours among us has, t atey, been the
ueen, a daughter of the ate Duke of Parma, a
very ugy woman, now fast approachng od age,
yet affectng youth and beauty. he had been but
a short tme marred to the present ng, then
Prnce of sturas, when she dscovered a strong
propensty to gaantry, whch the austere and
|eaous temper of her father-n-aw Chares III.
was scarcey abe to check. Her husband, one of
those happy bengs born to derve bss from g-
norance, has ever preserved a strong and e cusve
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L TT P P0M P I .
2 5
attachment to her person. Ths attachment, com-
bned wth a most udcrous smpcty, coses hs
mnd aganst every approach of suspcon.
The frst favourte of the Prncess that awaken-
ed the ng s |eaousy, was a genteman of hs son s
househod, named 0rtz. Concerned for the ho-
nour of the Prnce, no ess than for the strctness
of moras, whch, from regous prncpes, he had
an ousy preserved n hs court he ssued an order,
banshng 0rtz to one of the most dstant pro-
vnces. The Prncess, unabe to bear ths separa-
ton, and we acquanted wth the character of her
husband, engaged hm to obtan the reca of 0rtz
from the ng. crupuousy fathfu to hs pro-
mse, the young Prnce watched the frst oppor-
tunty to entreat hs father s favour, and fang
upon hs knees, asked the boon of 0rtz s return,
gravey and aftectngy urgng that hs wfe
Lousa was qute unhappy wthout hm, as he
used to amuse her amazngy. The od ng,
surprsed and provoked by ths wonderfu sm-
pcty, turned hs back upon the good-natured
pettoner, e camng : Caa, tonto De ao rse:
ue smpe que eres Hod your tongue, booby
Let hm go: What a smpeton thou art
Lousa deprved, however, of her entertanng
0rtz, soon found a substtute n a young offcer
named Lus de Godoy. He was the edest of three
brothers, of an ancent but decayed famy, n the
provnce of stremadura, who served together n
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2
L TT P P0M P I .
the Horse-Guards, a corps e cusvey composed of
gentemen, the owest ranks beng fed by com-
mssoned offcers. carcey had ths new attach-
ment been formed, when the od ng unmercfuy
npped t n the bud, by a decree of banshment
aganst Don Lus. The roya order was, as usua,
so pressng, that the dstressed over coud ony
charge hs second brother Manue wth a partng
message, and obtan a promse of hs beng the
bearer of as many tokens of constancy and despar,
as coud be safey transmtted by the post.
It s a part of the cumbrous etquette of the
pansh Court to gve a separate guard to every
member of the roya famy, though a ve wthn
the ng s paace and to pace sentnes wth
drawn swords at the door of every sute of apart-
ments. Ths servce s performed wthout nter-
rupton day and nght, by the mtary corps |ust
mentoned. Manue Godoy dd not fnd t dffcut
to be on duty n the Prnce s guard, as often as he
had any etter to dever. certan tune payed
on the fute, an nstrument wth whch that young
offcer used to begue the de hours of the guard,
was the sgna whch drew the Prncess to a prvate
room, to whch the messenger had secret, but free
access.
There s every reason to beeve that Luss amor-
ous dspatches had ther due effect for some weeks,
and that hs roya mstress ved amost e cusvey
upon ther contents. et tme was workng a sad
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L TT P P0M P I . 2 7
revouton n the fortunes of the banshed over.
Manue grew every day more nterestng, and the
etters ess so, t the fathess confdant became
the most amusng of mortas to the Prncess, and
consequenty a favourte wth her good-natured
husband.
The death of the od ng had now removed
every obstace to the ueen s gaantres, and Ma-
nue Godoy was rapdy advanced to the hghest
honours of the state, and the frst ranks of the
army. But the new soveregn dd not yet fee
qute easy upon the throne and the dyng ng s
recommendaton of hs favourte ordabanca, by
proongng that mnster s power, st set some
bounds to the ueen s caprces. Chares I ., though
perfecty under hs wfe s contro, coud not be pre-
vaed upon to dsmss an od servant of hs father
wthout any assgnabe reason and some respect for
pubc opnon, a feeng whch sedom fas to cast
a transent geam of hope on the frst days of every
regn, obged the ueen hersef to empoy other
means than a mere act of her w n the run of
the premer. He mght, however, have preserved
hs pace for some tme, and been aowed to retre
wth hs honours, had not hs |eaousy of the rsng
Godoy nduced hm to oppose the tde of favour
whch was now about to rase that young man to a
Grandeeshp of the frst cass. To provde for the
spendour of that eevated rank, the ueen had n-
duced her husband to bestow upon Godoy a prncey
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2 8 L TT P P0M P I .
estate, beongng to the crown, from whch he was
to take the tte of the Duke de a cuda. or-
dabanca, ether from prncpe, or some ess
honourabe motve, thought t necessary to oppose
ths grant as ega and havng nduced the ng
to consut the Counc of Caste upon that pont,
endeavoured to secure an answer agreeabe to hs
wshes, by means of a etter to hs frend the Count
Cfuentes. Most unucky for the mnster, before
ths etter arrved from an Idefonso, where the
court was at that tme, the presdent was sezed
wth a morta compant, and the dspatches fang
nto the hands of hs substtute Canada, were
secrety transmtted to the ueen. It s needess
to add, that the report of the counc was favourabe,
that Godoy was made Duke de a cuda, and that
both he and the ueen were now whoy bent upon
ther opposer s run.
Durng ordabanca s nfuence wth the ng,
a manuscrpt satre had been crcuated aganst that
mnster, n whch he was charged wth havng de-
frauded one aucc, an Itaan banker connected
wth the pansh Government. Too conscous, t
shoud seem, of the truth of the accusaton, orda-
banca suspected none but the n|ured party of
beng the contrver and crcuator of the ampoon.
The obno ous composton was, however, wrtten
n better pansh than aucc coud command, and
the smartng mnster coud not be satsfed wthout
punshng the author. Hs spes havng nformed
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L TT P P0M P I .
2
hm that the Marqus de Manca, a man of wt and
taent, was ntmate at aucc s, he had no need of
farther proofs aganst hm. The banker was m-
medatey banshed out of the kngdom, and the
poet confned to the cty of Burgos, under the n-
specton and contro of the cv authortes.
But the tme was now arrved when these men,
who were too we acquanted wth the state of
pan to ook for redress at the hands of |ustce,
were to obtan satsfacton from the sprt of re-
venge whch urged the ueen to seek the run of
her husband s mnster. Chares I . beng n-
formed of ordabanca s conduct towards aucc
and Manca, the ast was recaed to Court. Hs
enemy s papers, ncudng a arge coecton of
bets-dou , were sezed and put. nto the Marqus s
hands, to be used as documents n a secret process
nsttuted aganst the mnster : who, accordng to
hs own rues of |ustce, was, n the mean tme, sent
a prsoner to the fortress of Pampona. Hs con-
fnement, however, was not proonged beyond the
necessary tme to run hm n the ng s opnon
and upon the marrage of two of the Poya
Prncesses, an nduto, or pardon, was ssued, by
whch, though decared guty of embezzng forty-
two mons of reas, he was enarged from hs cose
confnement, and aowed to resde at Murca, hs
natve town.
I am not certan, however, whether orda-
banca s dsmssa dd not shorty precede hs ac-
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300
L TT P P0M P I -
cusaton by Manca, as the mmedate consequence
of hs efforts to make the ng |on the coaton
aganst rance after the death of Lous I.
Chares I . was, t seems, the ony soveregn n
urope, who fet no aarm at the fate of the un-
fortunate Lous and had more at heart the reco-
ecton of a persona sght from hs cousn, than
a the tes of common nterest and bood. Chares
had earned that, on hs accesson to the throne of
pan, the usua etter of congratuaton beng pre-
sented for sgnature to Lous, that monarch humour-
ousy observed, that he thought the etter hardy
necessary, for the poor man, he sad, s a mere
cypher, competey governed and henpecked by hs
wfe. Ths |oke had made such a deep mpresson
on the ng, as to draw from hm, when Lous was
decaptated, the unfeeng and amost bruta remark
that a genteman so ready to fnd faut wth
others, dd not seem to have managed hs own affars
very we. The Count de randa, who, n the
cabnet councs, had constanty voted for peace
wth rance, was apponted, n ebruary, 17 2, to
succeed ordabanca. But the turn of affars, and
the pressng remonstrances of the aed soveregns,
atered the vews of Chares and havng, at the
end of seven months, dsmssed randa wth a the
honours of hs offce, Godoy, then Duke of cuda,
was apponted hs successor to begn hosttes
aganst rance. I need not enter nto a narratve
of that -conducted and dsastrous war. n ap-
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L TT P P0M P I . 301
pearance of success cheered up the panards,
aways ready to fght wth ther neghbours on the
other sde of the Pyrenees. But the rench armes
havng receved renforcements, woud have soon
pad a vst to Chares at Madrd, f hs favourte
mnster, wth more address than he ever dscovered
n hs subsequent management of potca affars,
had not concuded and ratfed the peace of Base.
The fears of the whoe country at the progress of
the rench arms had been so strong, that peace
was haed wth enthusasm and the pubc |oy,
on that occason, woud have been unaoyed but
for the e travagant rewards granted to Godoy for
concudng t. new dgnty above the grandee-
shp was created for hm aone, and, under the tte
of Prnce of the Peace, Godoy was paced ne t n
rank to the Prnces of the roya bood.
There was but one step n the scae of honours
whch coud rase a mere sub|ect hgher than the
ueen s favour had e ated Godoy a marrage nto
the roya famy. But the ony dstncton whch
ove seemed not bnd enough to confer on the
favourte, he actuay owed to the |eaousy of hs
mstress.
mong the beautes whom the hope of the young
mnster s favour drew to Madrd from a parts of
pan, there was an unmarred ady of the name of
Tudo, a natve of Maaga, whose charms both of
person and mnd woud have captvated a much ess
susceptbe heart than Godoy s. rom the moment
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302
L TT P P0M P I .
she was presented by her parents. La Tudo (we
are perfecty unceremonous n namng ades of a
ranks) obtaned so decded a supremacy above the
numerous sharers n the favourte s ove, that the
ueen, who had htherto overooked a crowd of oc-
casona rvas, set her face aganst an attachment
whch bd far to ast for fe. It had, ndeed,
subssted ong enough to produce unquestonabe
proof of the nature of the ntmacy, n a chd whose
brth, though not bazoned forth as f sanctoned by
pubc opnon, was not hdden wth any conscous-
ness of shame. report beng crcuated at court,
that the Prnce of the Peace was secrety marred
to La Tudo, the ueen, n a ft of |eaousy, accused
hm to the ng as guty of ngrattude, n thus
havng aed hmsef to a woman of no brth, wth-
out the sghtest mark of deference to hs roya be-
nefactors. The ng, whose fondness for Godoy
had grown above hs wfe s contro, seemed ncned
to dscredt the story of the marrage but, beng
at that tme at one of the roya country resdences
caed tos the scura, I beeve, where the
mnsters have apartments wthn the paace the
ueen ed her husband through a secret passage, to
a room where they surprsed the overs takng ther
supper n a comfortabe tte-h-tte.
The feengs e cted by ths sght must have
been so dfferent n each of the roya coupe, that
one can scarcey fee surprsed at the strangeness
of the resut. Godoy had ony to deny the mar-
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L TT P P0M P I .
303
rage to pacfy the ng, whose good nature was
ready to make aowances for a mere ove-ntrgue
of hs favourte. The ueen, hopeess of ever
beng the e cusve ob|ect of the gaantres of a
man to whom she was chaned by the bndest n-
fatuaton, probaby feared est the step she had
taken shoud tear hm away from her presence.
save to her vehement passons, and a perfect
stranger to those decate feengs whch vce tsef
cannot smother n some hearts, she seemed sats-
fed wth preventng her chef rva from rsng
above her own rank of a mstress and, provded
the pace was occuped by one to whom her para-
mour was ndfferent, wshed to see hm marred,
and be hersef the match-maker.
The ng s ate brother, Don Lus, who, n spte
of a cardna s hat, and the archbshoprck of eve,
conferred on hm before he was of age to take hoy
orders, stoe a knd of eft-handed marrage wth
a pansh ady of the name of aabrga had eft
two daughters and a son, under the guardanshp of
the archbshop of Toedo. Though not, htherto,
aowed to take ther father s name, these chdren
were consdered egtmate and t s probabe that
the ng had been desrous of puttng them n pos-
sesson of the honours due to ther brth, ong
before the ueen proposed the edest of her neces-
both as a reward for Godoy s servces, and a
meats to prevent n future such saes of youthfu
foy as dvded hs attenton between peasure and
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304
L TT P P0M P I .
the servce of the crown. These or smar reasons
(for hstory must content hersef wth con|ecture,
when the man sprngs of events e not ony be-
hnd the curtan of state, but those of a four-post
bed) produced n the space of a few weeks, a pubc
recognton of Don Lus s chdren, and the an-
nouncemnet of hs edest daughter s ntended mar-
rage wth the Prnce of the Peace.
The vcous source of Godoy s unbounded power,
the temper of the Court where he en|oyed t, and
the crowd of fatterers whch hs eevaton had
gathered about hm, woud precude a e pectaton
of any great or vrtuous quates n hs character.
et there arc facts connected wth the begnnng
of hs government whch prove that he wa3 not
vod of those vague wshes of dong good, whch, as
they sprng up, are choked wth cares and rches
and peasures of ths word. I have been assured
by an acute and perfecty dsnterested observer,
whose hgh rank gave hm free access to the favour-
te, durng part of the perod when wth the tte
of Duke de a cda he was at the head of the
pansh mnstry, that there was every reason to
beeve hm actve, ntegent, and attentve n the
dscharge of hs duty and that he was perfecty
e empt from a those ars and affectaton whch
men who rse by fortune more than mert, are apt
to be |usty accused of. Though, ke a the
pansh youth brought up n the mtaryprofesson,
he was hmsef unettered, he shewed great respect
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L TT P P0M P I . 305
for taents and terature n the formaton of the
mnstry whch succeeded hs own, when, from hs
new rank, and hs marrage nto the roya famy,
he was consdered above the dutes of offce.
aavedra, whom he made frst mnster of state,
s a man of great natura quckness, mproved both
by readng and the observaton of rea fe but so
rresoute of purpose, so waverng n |udgment, so
ncapabe of decson, that, whe n offce, he seemed
more ft to render pubc busness ntermnabe,
than to drect ts course n hs own department.
|oveanos, apponted to be aavedra s coeague, s
|usty consdered as one of the vng ornaments of
our terature. ducated at aamanca n one of
the Coegos Mayores, before the reform whch
strpped those bodes of ther honours and nfuence,
he was made a |udge n hs youth, and graduay
ascended to one of the supreme councs of the na-
ton. Hs uprght and honourabe conduct n every
stage of hs fe, both pubc and prvate, the urbanty
of hs manners, and the forma eegance of hs con-
versaton, render hm a strkng e empfcaton of
the od pansh Cavaero. Wth the vrtues and
agreeabe quates of that character, he untes
many of the pre|udces pecuar to the perod to
whch t beongs. To a most passonate attach-
ment to the prveges and dstnctons of bood, he
|ons a supersttous veneraton for a knds of e -
terna forms. The strongest partates warp hs

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30 L TT P P0M P I .
fne understandng, confnng t, upon numerous
sub|ects, to dstorted or mted vews. s a |udge
and a man of etters, he was respected and admred
by a. s a chef |ustce n any of our provnca
courts f aw, he woud have been a bessng to the
peope of hs dstrct whe the dgnfed esure
of that stuaton woud have enabed hm to enrch
our terature wth the productons of hs eegant
mnd. s a mnster, however, through whose
hands a the gfts of the Crown were to be dstr-
buted to a hungry country, where two-thrds of
the better casses ook up to patronage for a com-
fortabe subsstence, he dsapponted the hopes of
the naton. t Court, hs hgh notons of rank
converted hs rather prm manner nto downrght
stffness and hs bnd partaty for the natves
of sturas, hs provnce probaby because he
thought them the purest remnant of Gothc bood
n pan made hm the most unpopuar of mns-
ters. Instead of promotng the wefare of the na-
ton by measures whch graduay, and upon a arge
scae, mght counteract the nfuence of a profgate
Court, he tred to oppose the ueen s estabshed
nterference n deta. he once made a persona
appcaton to |oveanos n favour of a certan can-
ddate for a prebenda sta. The mnster gave her
a fat dena, aegng that the person n queston
had not quafed hmsef at any of the unverstes.
t whch of them, sad the ueen, dd you
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L TT P P0M P I . 307
receve your educaton t aamanca, Ma-
dam. What a pty, re|oned she, that they
forgot to teach you manners
Whe empoyed n ths petty warfare, whch
must have soon ended n hs dsmssa, a crcum-
stance occurred, whch, though t was the means
of reconcng the ueen to |oveanos for a tme,
has fnay consgned hm to a fortress n Ma|orca,
where to ths day he ngers under a confnement
no ess un|ust than severe.
The ceremony of Godoy s marrage was scarcey
over, when he resumed hs ntmacy wth La Tudo
n the most open and unguarded manner. The
ueen, under a reapse of |eaousy, seemed so de-
termned to cp the wngs of her spoed favourte,
that |oveanos was deceved nto a hope of makng
ths pque the means of recamng hs patron, f
not to the path of vrtue, at east to the rues of e -
terna proprety. aavedra, better acquanted wth
the word, and we aware that Godoy coud, at
peasure, resume any degree of ascendancy over the
ueen, entered reuctanty nto the pot. ot so
|oveanos. Treatng ths Court ntrgue as one of
the reguar awsuts on whch he had so ong prac-
tsed hs sk and mpartaty, he coud not brng
hmsef to proceed wthout servng a notce upon
the party concerned. He accordngy forwarded
a remonstrance to the Prnce of the Peace, n whch
he remnded hm of hs pubc and con|uga dutes,
n the most forcbe stye of forensc and mora
2
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308 L TT P P0M P I .
eoquence. The ueen, n the mean tme, had
worked up her husband nto a feeng approachng
to anger aganst Godoy, and the decree for hs
banshment was a but sgned before the offendng
gaant thought hmsef n such danger as to requre
the act of submsson, whch aone coud restore
hm to the good graces of hs negected mstress.
He owed, however, hs safety to nothng but aa-
vedra s ndecson and datorness. That mnster
coud not be persuaded to present the decree of
banshment for the roya sgnature, t the day after
t had been agreed upon. Godoy, n the mean
tme, obtaned a prvate ntervew wth the ueen,
who, under the nfuence of a ong-checked and re-
turnng passon, n order to e cupate hersef, re-
presented the Mnsters the very men whom Go-
doy had rased nto power as the authors of the
pot and probaby attrbuted the pan to |ovea-
nos, makng hm, from ths moment, the marked
ob|ect of the favourte s resentment.
The baffed Mnsters, though not mmedatey
dsmssed, must have fet the unsteadness of the,
ground on whch they stood, and dreaded the re-
venge of an enemy, who had aready shewn, n the
case of dmra Maaspna, that he was both abe
and wng to wreak t on the nstruments of the
ueen s |eaousy. That offcer, an Itaan by brth,
had |ust returned from a voyage round the gobe,
performed at the e pense of ths Government, when
the ueen, who found t dffcut to reguate the
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L TT P P0M P I .
30
feengs of her husband towards Godoy, to the sud-
den and rapd aratons of her own, nduced her
confdant, the Countess of Mataana, to engage hm
n drawng up a memora to the ng, contanng
observatons on the pubc and prvate conduct of
the favourte, and representng hm n the backest
coours. Maaspna was at ths tme preparng the
account of hs voyage for pubcaton, wth the as-
sstance of a conceted scost, a evan frar
caed Padre G, who, n our great dearth of rea
knowedge, was ooked upon as a mrace of erud-
ton and eoquence. The dmra, puttng asde
hs charts and og-books, eagery coected every
charge aganst Godoy whch was key to make
an mpresson upon the ng whe the frar, n-
spred wth the vson of a mtre ready to drop on
hs head, cothed them n the most ford and
powerfu fgures whch used to enrapture hs aud-
ence from the pupt. othng was now wantng
but the ueen s command to sprng the mne under
the feet of the devoted Godoy, when the ntended
vctm, nformed of hs danger, and takng advantage
of one of those soft moments whch made the
ueen and a her power hs own, drew from her a
confesson of the pot, together wth the names of
the consprators. In a few days, Maaspna found
hmsef conveyed to a fortress, where, wth hs
voyage, maps, scentfc coectons, and every thng
reatng to the e pedton, he remans competey
forgotten whe the reverend wrter of the memo-
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310
L TT P P0M P I .
ra was forwarded under an escort to eve, the
scene of hs former terary gory, to be confned n
a house of correcton, where |uvene offenders of
the ower casses are sent to undergo a sautary
course of foggng.
The ueen was preparng the dsmssa of aave-
dra and |oveanos, when a dangerous ness of the
former brought forward a new actor n the ntrcate
drama of Court ntrgue, who, had he known how
to use hs power, mght have worked the compete
run of ts hero.
The rstCerk of the ecretary of tate s 0ffce
a pace answerng to that of your under-secretary of
tate was a handsome young man, caed Urqu|o.
Hs name s probaby not unknown to you, as he
was a few years ago wth the pansh mbassador
n London, where hs attachment to the rench
|acobns and ther measures coud not fa to attract
some notce, from the unequvoca heroc proof of
sef-devoton whch he shewed to that party. It
was, n fact, an attempt to drown hmsef n the
pond at ensngton Gardens, upon earnng the
peace made by Buonaparte wth the Pope at Toen-
tno a treaty whch dsapponted hs hopes of
seeng the fna destructon of the Papa ee, and
Pome tsef a heap of runs, n conformty to a
decree of the rench Drectory. ortune, however,
havng determned to transform our brave ans-
Cuotte nto a courter, afforded hm a tmey rescue
from the muddy deep and when, under the care of
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L TT P P0M P I .
311
Doctor , he had been brought to understand
how tte hs drownng woud nfuence the events
of the rench war, he returned to Madrd, to wed
hs pen n the offce where hs prevous quafcaton
oft/oven de Lengtas, had entted hm to a pace,
t he rose, by senorty, to that of Under- e-
cretary.
very pansh mnster has a day apponted n
the course of the week caed Da de Despacho
when he ays before the ng the contents of hs
portfoo, to dspose of them accordng to hs Ma-
|esty s peasure. The ueen, who s e cessvey
fond of power,-f- never fas to attend on the occa-
sons. The mnster, durng ths audence, stands,
or, f desred, sts on a sma stoo near a arge tabe
paced between hm and the ng and ueen.
The ove of patronage, not of busness, s, of course,
the ob|ect of the ueen s assduty whe nothng
but the ove of gossp enabes her husband to endure
the drudgery of these sttngs. Durng aavedra s
mnstry, hs Ma|esty was hghy deghted wth
the premer s powers of conversaton, and hs ne -
haustbe fund of good stores. The portfoo was
ad upon the tabe the ueen mentoned the
names of her protege s, and the ng, referrng a
oung men are apponted to go abroad wth the pansh
ambassadors n order to earn foregn anguages, and thus quafy
themseves as dpomatsts.
f It s a we known fact that there are etters n e stence
addressed by her, whe Prncess of sturas, to the |udges n the
provnces, askng ther rotes n pendng awsnts.
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312
L TT P P0M P I .
other busness to the decson of the mnster, began
a comfortabe chat, whch asted t bed-tme.
When aavedra was taken wth that sudden and
dangerous ness whch Godoy s enemes were n-
cned to attrbute to poson, (a suspcon, however,
whch both the favourte s rea good nature, and hs
subsequent enty towards aavedra, absoutey con-
tradct) tbe duty of carryng the portfoo to the
ngdevoved upon the Under-secretary. Urqu|o s
handsome person and eegant manners made a deep
mpresson upon the ueen and ten thousand
whspers spread the mportant news the ne t morn-
ng, that her Ma|esty had desred the young cerk
to take a seat.
Ths favourabe mpresson, t s more than pro-
babe, was heghtened by a fresh pque aganst
Godoy, whose growng dsgust of hs roya mstress,
and frm attachment to La Tudo, offered her Ma-
|esty day sub|ects of mortfcaton. he now con-
ceved the pan of makng Urqu|o, not ony her n-
strument of revenge, but, t s generay beeved, a
substtute for the ncorrgbe favourte. But n
ths amorous Court even a ueen can hardy fnd a
vacant heart and Urqu|o s was too deepy engaged
to one of Godoy s ssters, to appear sensbe of her
Ma|esty s condescenson. He mustered, however, a
suffcent porton of gaantry to support the ueen
n her resouton of separatng Godoy from the
Court, and deprvng hm of a nfuence n matters
of government.

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L TT P P0M P I .
313
It s, ndeed, surprsng, that the ueen s resent-
ment proceeded no farther aganst the man who
had so often provoked t, and that hs dsgrace was
not attended wth the usua consequences of degra-
daton and mprsonment. Many and powerfu cr-
cumstances combned, however, n Godoy s favour
the ng s amost parenta fondness towards hm
the new mnster s e cessve concet of hs own
nfuence and abtes, no ess than hs utter con-
tempt of the dscarded favourte and, most of a,
the ueen s une tngushed and ever revvng pas-
son, backed by her fears of drvng to e tremtes
a man who had, t s sad, n hs power, the means
of e posng her wthout condemnng hmsef.
Durng aavedra s mnstry, and that nterva of
codness produced by Godoy s caprcous gaan-
tres, whch enabed hs enemes to make the frst
attempt aganst hm hs roya mstress had con-
ceved a strong fancy for one Mao, a natve of
Caraccas, and then an obscure Garde du Corps.
The rapd promoton of that young man, and the
dspay of weath and spendour whch he began to
make, e paned the source of hs advancement to
every one but the ng. Godoy hmsef seems to
have been stung wth |eaousy, probaby not so
much from hs rva s share n the ueen s affec-
tons, as from the -conceaed vanty of the man,
whose soe am was to cast nto shade the whoe
Court. 0nce, as the ng and ueen, attended by
Godoy and other grandees of the househod, were.
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314
L TT P P0M P I .
standng at the bacony of the roya seat Pardo,
Mao appeared at a dstance, drvng four beautfu
horses, and foowed by a brant retnue. The
ng s eye was caught by the beauty of the equ-
page, and he nqured to whom t beonged. Hear-
ng that t was Mao s I wonder, he sad, how
that feow can afford to keep such horses.
Why, pease your Ma|esty, reped Godoy, the
scanda goes, that he hmsef s kept by an ugy
od woman I qute forget her name.
Mao s day of prosperty was but short. Hs
vanty, co combry and foy, dspeased the ng,
and aarmed the ueen. But n the frst |fcour of
her attachments, she generay had the weakness of
con n tng her feengs to wrtng and Mao pos-
sessed a coecton of her etters. Wshng to rd
hersef of that absurd, van fop, and yet dreadng
an e posure, she empoyed Godoy n the recovery
of her wrtten tokens. Mao s house was sur-
rounded wth soders n the dead of nght and he
wts forced U yed the precous manuscrpts nto
the hand s of s rva. The atter, however, was
too wegwace f ther vaue to dever them to the
wrter and he s sad to keep them as a powerfu
charm, f not to secure hs mstress s affecton, at
east to subdue her fts of fckeness and |eaousy.
Mao was soon banshed and forgotten.
The two mnsters, aavedra and |oveanos, had
been rustcated to ther natve provnces the frst,
on account of heath the second, from the
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L TT P P0M P I .
.315
ueen s unconquerabe dske. Urqu|o, who seems
to have been unabe ether- to gan the ng s es-
teem, or fuy to return the ueen s affecton, coud
keep hs post no onger than whe the atter s ever
ready fondness for Godoy, was not awakened by the
presence of ts ob|ect. The absence of the favour-
te, t s generay beeved, mght have been pro-
onged, by good pocy, and management of the
ng on the part of Urqu|o, f hs rashness and
concet of hmsef had ever aowed hm to suspect
that any nfuence whatever, was equa to that of
hs taents and person. Instead of strongy op-
posng - memora of the Prnce of the Peace,
askng permsson to kss ther ma|estes hands
upon the Brth of a daughter, borne to hrr
Prncess hs wfe, Urqu|o magned the
frmy attached to hmsef, that he concevea no
danger from ths transent vst of hs offended
rva. Godoy made hs appearance at Court and
from that moment Urqu|o s run became nevt-
abe. Hs hatred of the Court of Pome had nduced
the atter to encourage the transaton of- a Portu-
guese work, aganst the e tortons- of the Itaan
Datara, n eases of dspensatons for marrage
wthn the prohbted degrees. Thnkng the pub-
c mnd suffcenty prepared by that work, he
pubshed a roya mandate to the pansh bshops,
urgng them to resume ther ancent rghts of ds-
pensaton. Ths step had armed aganst ts author
the greater part of the cergy and the Prnce of
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31(5 L TT P P0M P I .
the Peace found t easy to aarm the ng s con-
scence by means of the Pope s nunco, Cardna
Cason, who made hm beeve that hs mnster
had betrayed hm nto a measure whch trespassed
upon the rghts of the Poman Pontff. I beeve
that Godoy s growng dske of the Inquston
spared Urqu|o the horrors of a dungeon wthn ts
precncts. He had not, however, suffcent gene-
rosty to content hmsef wth the banshment of
hs enemy to Gupuzcoa. n order for hs mpr-
sonment n a fortress foowed hm thther n a short
tme a crcumstance, whch mght rase a susp-
con that Urqu|o had empoyed hs persona
berty to make a second attempt aganst the re-
caed favourte.
Ths supposton woud be strongy supported by
the genera mdness of Godoy s admnstraton, f
one nstance of crue and mpacabe revenge were
not opposed to so favourabe a vew of hs conduct.
Whether the ueen represented |oveanos to the
Prnce of the Peace as the chef actor n the frst
pot whch was ad aganst hm, or that he charged
that venerabe magstrate wth ngrattude for tak-
ng any share n a conspracy aganst the man who
had rased hm to power Godoy-had scarcey been
restored to hs former nfuence, when he procured
an order to confne |oveanos n the Carthusan
Convent of Ma|orca. The unmanness of ths se-
cond and ong-medtated bow, roused the ndgna-
ton of hs faen and htherto sent adversary, ca-
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L TT P P0M P I . 317
ng forth that dauntess and dgnfed nfe bty
whch makes hm, n our days, so fne a specmen
of the od pansh character. rom hs confne-
ment he addressed a etter to the ng, e posng
the n|ustce of hs treatment n terms so removed
from the serve tone of a pansh memora, so re-
gardess of the power of hs adversary, that t knd-
ed anew the resentment of the favourte, through
whose hands he we knew t must make ts way
to the throne. uch a step was more key to ag-
gravate than to obtan redress for hs wrongs. The
vrtues, the brant taents, and peasng address of
|oveanos had so ganed upon the affectons of the
monks, that they treated hm wth more deference
than even a mnster n the heght of hs power
coud have e pected. Godoy s sprt of revenge
coud not brook hs enemy s en|oyment of ths
sma remnant of happness and wth a cruety
whch casts the backest stan on hs character, he
removed hm to a fortress n the same sand, where,
under the contro of an terate and rude governor,
|oveanos s deprved of a communcaton, and
mted to a sma number of books for hs menta
en|oyment. The character of the gaoer may be
conceved from the fact of hs not beng abe to
dstngush a work from a voume. |oveano s
frends are not aowed to reeve hs sotude wth a
varety of books, even to the number contaned
n the governor s nstructons for he reckons
terary works by the pece, and a good edton of
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318
L TT P P0M P I .
Ccero, for nstance, appears to hm a compete
brary. .
nce hs restoraton to favour, the Prnce of the
Peace has been graduay and constanty ganng
ascendancy. The usua ttes of honour beng e -
hausted upon hm, the antquated dgnty of Hgh-
dmra has been revved and conferred upon hm,
|ust at the tme when your tars have eft us wth-
out a navy. Great emouments, and the address
of Hghness have been anne ed to ths dgnty.
brgade of cavary, composed of pcked men from
the whoe army, has been atey gven to the Hgh-
dmra as a guard of honour. Hs power, n fne,
though deegated, s unmted, and he may be pro-
pery sad to be the actng overegn of pan.
The ng, by the unparaeed eevaton of ths
favourte, has obtaned hs heart s desre n a perfect
e empton from a sorts of empoyment, e cept
shootng, to whch he e cusvey devotes every day
of the year. oer, the mnster of fnance, s em-
poyed to feece the peope and Cabaero, n the
home department, to keep them n due gnorance and
sub|ecton. I sha |ust gve you a sampe of each of
these worthes mnds and prncpes. It has been
the custom for centures at aadod to make the
Domncan Convent of that town a sort of bank for
depostng sums of money, as t was done n the
ancent tempes, under smar crcumstances of
ee ote .
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L TT P P0M P I .
31
gnorance, of commerce and nsecurty of property.
oer, beng nformed that the monks hed n ther
hands a consderabe depost, decared that t was
an n|ury to the state to aow so much money to
e de/ and sezng t, probaby for the ueen,
whose ncessant demands form the most pressng
and consderabe tem of the pansh budget, gave
government-paper to the monks, whch the cred-
tors mght se, f they chose, at eghty per cent,
dscount. Cabaero, fearng the progress of a
earnng, whch mght dsturb the peace of the
Court, sent, not ong snce, a crcuar order to the
Unverstes, forbddng the study of mora phoso-
phy : Hs Ma|esty, t was sad n the order, was
not n want of phosophers, but of good and obe-
dent sub|ects.
Under the actve operaton of ths system, the
ueen has the command of as much money and
patronage as she desres and fndng t mprac-
tcabe to check the gaantres of her c/er am, has
so perfecty conquered her |eaousy as to be abe
not ony to be on the most amcabe terms wth
hm, but to emuate hs ove of varety n the most
open and mpudent manner.
I wsh to have done wth the monstrous heap of
scanda, whch the state of our Court has unavod-
aby forced nto my narratve. Much, ndeed,
I eave untod but I cannot omt an orgna and
perfecty authentc story, whch, as t e pans the
mystery of the ng s otherwse ne pcabe bnd-
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320
L TT P P0M P I .
ness respectng hs wfe s conduct, |ustce requres
to be made pubc. The word sha see that hs
Ma|esty s apathy does not arse from any dsgrace-
fu ndfference for what s generay consdered by
men as a vta pont of honour but that the peace
and tranquty of hs mnd s grounded on a pho-
sophca system I do not know whether physca
or mora whch s, I beeve, pecuar to hmsef.
The od Duke de I (on the authorty of
whose ady I gve you the anecdote) was once, wth
other grandees, n attendance on the ng, when
hs Ma|esty, beng n hgh gosspng humour, en-
tered nto a somewhat gay conversaton on the far
se . He descanted, at some ength, on fckeness
and caprce, and aughed at the dangers of hus-
bands n these southern cmates. Havng had hs
f of merrment on the sub|ect of |eaousy, he con-
cuded wth an ar of trumph We, crowned
heads, however, have ths chef advantage above
others, that our honour, as they ca t, s safe for
suppose that queens were as much bent on mschef
as some of ther se , where coud they fnd kngs
and emperors to frt wth f h
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L TT P P0M P I .
321
L TT P I.
Madrd, 1807.
In gvng you a sketch of prvate fe at Madrd,
I sha begn by a character qute pecuar to the
country, and we known a over pan by the
name of Pretendentes, or pace-hunters. ery df-
ferent deas, however, are attached to these deno-
mnatons n the two anguages. oung men of
the proudest fames are reguary sent to Court on
that errand, and few gentemen destne ther sons
ether for the church or the aw, wthout cacu-
atng the means of supportng them three or four
years at Madrd, as reguar and professed pace-
hunters. The fact s, that, wth the e cepton
of three stas n every cathedra, and n some co-
egate churches, that are obtaned by terary com-
petton, there s not a snge pace of rank and
emoument to whch Court nterest s not the
e cusve road. Hence the necessty for a who
do not possess an ndependent fortune, n other
words, for more than two thrds of the pansh
gentry, to repar to the capta, there to procure

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322
L TT P P0M P I .
that nterest, by whatever means ther crcum-
stances may afford.
The Pretendentes may be dvded nto four
casses. Cergymen, who aspre to any preferment
not nferor to a prebend awyers, who wsh to
obtan a pace on the bench of |udges n one of our
numerous courts, both of pan and pansh me-
rca men of busness, who desre to be empoyed
n. the coecton of the revenue and advocates,
whose vews do not e tend beyond a Corregvento
a knd of Pecordershp, wth very mted |udca
powers, whch e sts n every town of any note
where there s not an udenca, or superor tr-
buna. I sha dspatch the ast two casses n
a few words.
Between our advocates or barrsters, and the su-
peror |udges, caed 0dores, there s such a ne of
dstncton as to be amost an nsuperabe barrer.
young man, who, havng studed Poman aw
at the Unversty, attends three or four years at an
actng advocate s chambers, s, after an e amnaton
on pansh aw, quafed to pead at the courts of
|ustce. But once engaged n ths branch of the
aw, he must gve up a hopes of rsng above that
doubtfu rank whch hs professon gves hm n so-
cety. uccess may make hm rch, but he must
be contented wth drudgng for fe at the bar of a
provnca court, and bear the sghtng and nsoent
tone wth whch the |udges consder themseves at
berty to treat the advocates. It s, therefore, not
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L TT P P0M P I .
323
uncommon among young awyers, who cannot com-
mand nterest enough to be paced on the bench, to
offer themseves as canddates for a Corregmento.
Havng scraped together a tte money, and pro-
cured a few etters of recommendaton, they repar
to Madrd, where they are seen amost day n .the
mnster s watng-room wth a petton, and a
prnted st of ther unversty degrees and terary
quafcatons, caed Pape de Mertos, whch, after
two or three hours attendance, they thnk them-
seves happy f hs e ceency w take from ther
hands. uch as can obtan an ntroducton to
some of the grandees who have the rght to appont
magstrates on ther estates, confne themseves to
the easer, though rather more humatng task,
of toad-eatng to ther patron.
The Preendentes for the hgher branches of
fnance, must be abe to make a more decent ap-
pearance at Court, f they hope for success. It s
not, however, the mnster for that department,
who s most to be courted n order to obtan these
ucratve paces. recommendaton from the
ueen, or from the Prnce of the Peace, generay
nterferes wth hs vews, f he aows hmsef to
have any of hs own. To obtan the frst, a hand-
some fgure, or some peasng accompshment,
such as sngng to the gutar n the pansh stye,
are the most key means, ether by engagng her
Ma|esty s attenton, or the affectons of some of her
favourte mads of honour. The no ess powerfu
2
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324
L TT P P0M P I .
recommendaton of the Prnce of the Peace s, I
must say n |ustce to hm, not aways made the
reward of fattery, or of more degradng servty.
|ustce and a due regard for mert, are, t s true,
far from reguatng the dstrbuton of hs patronage:
yet,, very dfferent from the mnsters who trembe
before hm, he can be approached by every ndv-
dua n the kngdom, wthout an ntroducton, and
n the certanty of recevng a cv, f not a favour-
abe answer. Hs great fang, however, beng the
ove of peasure, none are so sure of. a gracous re-
cepton as those who appear at hs pubc evees,
attended by a handsome wfe or boomng daughter.
The fact s so we known a over the country, and
I bush to say t the natona character s so far
snkng under the nfuence of ths profgate govern-
ment, that beautes fock from every provnce for
the chance of beng notced by the favourte. Hs
pubc evee presents every week a coecton of the
handsomest women n the country, attended by
ther fathers or husbands. sut thus supported
s never known to fa.
The young asprants to a toga, or |udge s gown,
often succeed through some ndrect nfuence of
ths knd. The strange noton that an advocate
one that has peaded causes at the bar has, n a
manner, dsquafed hmsef for the bench, eaves
the admnstraton of |ustce open to ne perenced
young men, who, havng taken a degree n Poman
aw, and nomnay attached themseves for a short
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L TT P P0M P I . 325
tme to an advocate, as practoners, are suddeny
rased to the mportant staton of |udges, ether by
marryng any of the ueen s mads of honour, or
some more humbe beauty on whom the Prnce of
the Peace has cast a transent geam of favour. I
have known such a reward e tended to the sster
of a temporary favourte, who, beng poor, and n
ove wth a young man of famy, poor hmsef,
and hopeess of otherwse obtanng a pace, en-
abed hm to marry, by brngng a |udge s gown for
her porton. et so perfecty can crcumstances
ater the conne on whch some mora feengs have
between themseves under certan forms and mod-
fcatons of socety, that the man I aude to, as
havng owed hs promoton to such ob|ectonabe
nfuence, s an e ampe of |ustce and mpartaty
n the dffcut staton n whch he has been paced.
I do not mean, however, that a person who degrades
hs character wth a vew to promoton, gves a far
promse of honourabe prncpes when caed to
dscharge the dutes of a pubc offce : the growng
venaty of our |udges s too sad and cear a proof
of the reverse. But when a Government becomes
so perfecty abandoned as to bock up wth fth and
pouton every avenue to weath, power, and even
bare subsstence, men who, n a happer country,
woud have ooked upon the contamnated path
wth abhorrence, or, had they ventured a snge step
upon t, woud have been confrmed n ther degra-
daton by the ndebe brand of pubc censure
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320
L TT P P0M P I .
are seen to yed for a moment to the combned n-
fuence of want and e ampe, and recover themseves
so far, as amost to deserve the thanks of the peope
for havng snatched a porton of authorty from the
grasp of the absoutey worthess.
Before I proceed to the remanng cass of Pre-
tendentes, aow me, as a reef from the contem-
paton of ths scene of vce and corrupton, to ac-
quant you wth a man n power who, unwarped
by any undue nfuence, has unformy empoyed
hs patronage n the encouragement of modest and
retrng mert. Hs name s Don Manue to
spnosa. Hs father was a muscan, who havng
had the good fortune to pease the ng by hs
tastefu performances on the pano, was apponted
teacher of that nstrument to the Poya amy.
Hs son, a young man of great natura abtes,
whch he had apped to the study of fnance and
potca economy, (branches of knowedge tte
attended to n pan,) had been graduay rased
to a pace of consderabe nfuence n that depart-
ment, when hs we-known taents made the Prnce
of the Peace f upon hm as the fttest man to
drect the estabshment for the consodaton of
the pubc debt. spnosa, as Drector of the
nkng und, has been accused of mpety by the
cergy, for trespassng on ther overgrown prv-
eges and bamed, by such as aow themseves to
canvass state matters n whspers, for not opposng
the msappcaton of the funds he enabes Govern-
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L TT P P0M P I .
327
ment to coect. It woud be needess to answer
the frst charge. s to the second, common can-
dour w aow that t s unfar to confound the
dutes of a coector wth those of a trustee of the
natona revenue.
Wthout, however, enterng upon the ony re-
manng queston, whether, n the unfortunate cr-
cumstances of ths country, t s an honest man s
duty to refuse hs servces to a Government whose
ob|ect s to feece the sub|ect n order to pamper ts
own vces a doctrne doubtfu n theory, and
amost nappcabe n practce, spnosa has qua-
tes acknowedged by a who know hm, and even
undened by hs enemes, whch, wthout rasng
hm nto an heroc mode of pubc vrtue, make
hm a strkng nstance of the power of vrtuous
and honourabe prncpe, n the mdst of every a-
urement and temptaton whch profgacy, armed
wth supreme power, can empoy. Inaccessbe to
nfuence, hs patronage has unformy been e -
tended to men of undoubted mert. manuscrpt
ssay on Potca conomy, wrtten by a frendess
young man and presented to spnosa, was enough
to obtan the author a vauabe appontment.
decded enemy to the custom of recevng presents,
so prevaent n pan, as to - have become a matter
of course n every sut, ether for |ustce or favour
I postvey know, that when a commerca trans-
acton, to the amount of mons, between ths
Government and a mercante house n London
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328 L TT P P0M P I .
had receved hs approbaton, spnosa sent back a
hamper of wne, whch one of the partners had
hoped, from ts trfng vaue, he woud have re-
ceved as a token of grattude. Hs prvate conduct
s e empary, and hs manners perfecty free from
the nsoence of offce, whch he mght assume
from the hgh honours to whch he has been rased.
Hs parents, now very od, and vng n the modest,
unassumng stye whch becomes ther orgna rank,
are vsted by spnosa every unday, (the ony day
whch eaves hm a moment of rest) and treated
wth the utmost kndness and deference. ways
md and modest n hs deportment, t s on these
occasons that he seems qute to forget hs honours,
and carry hmsef back to the tme when he ooked
for ove and protecton from those two, now, hep-
ess bengs. It s there, and ony there, that I once
met spnosa, and he has ever snce possessed my
respect. If I have dwet too ong on the sub|ect
of a man perfecty unknown to you, I trust you
w not attrbute t to any of the motves whch
generay prompt the prases of men n power.
These, ndeed, can never reach the ear of hm they
commend, nor has he the means to serve the euo-
gst. But the day sckenng sght of ths nfamous
Court makes the mnd cng to the few ob|ects
whch st bear the mpress of vrtue: and havng
to proceed wth the dsgustng pcture n whch I
have engaged, I gady sezed the opportunty of
dspeng the mpresson whch my sub|ect mght
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L TT P P0M P I .
32
eave, ether that I take peasure n vfyng my
country, or that every seed of honour has ded
away from the and.
I do not know how t happens that n gong
through the descrpton of the dfferent casses of
Pretendentes, I have nverted the order whch they
hod n my enumeraton, so that I st fnd mysef
wth the Peverend ta-hunters upon my hands.
These, as you may suppose, are, by the decences
of ther professon, compeed to take qute a df-
ferent course from those aready descrbed for
Hymen, n ths country, e pects nothng from the
cergy but dsturbance and Love, accustomed, at
Court, to the gtter of ace and embrodery, s,
usuay, frghtened at the approach of ther back
coaks, and the nappng brms of ther enormous
hats.
Durng the ast regn, and the eary part of the
present, the ng sedom dsposed of hs patronage
wthout the advce of hs Prvy Counc. The
Camarstas dc Casto- receved the pettons of
the canddates, accompaned by documenta proofs
of ther merts and quafcatons, and reported
thereon to the ng through the Mnster of the
home department. uch was the estabshed prac-
tce t the ueen took to hersef the patronage of
the Crown, and fnay shared t wth her favourte.
The houses of the Prvy Counseors were, accord-
ngy, the great resort of the Cerca Pretendentes.
Letters of ntroducton to some of the Camarstas
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330
L TT P P0M P I .
were consdered the most ndspensabe provson
for the Madrd |ourney and no West Indan save
was ever so dependent on the nod of hs master, as
these parastes were on the humours of the whoe
famy of the Prvy Counseor, where each had the
happness to be receved as a constant vster.
There he mght be seen n the mornng reevng
the ennu of the ady of the house who, from the
ate perod of fe at whch |udges are promoted to a
pace n the ng s Counc, are themseves of the
age whch we ca canonca and there he was sure
to be found n the evenng makng one at the game
of Medator, wthout whch her adyshp woud be
more restess and unhappy than f she had mssed
her supper. In ths gyptan bondage the cerca
asprant woud pass three or four years of hs fe,
t hs patron was wng and abe to obtan for hm
the frst pace n the st of three canddates presented
to the ng at each vacancy, when the happy man
qutted the Court for some cathedra, there quety
to en|oy the fruts of hs patence and perseve-
rance.
The road to preferment s, at present, more n-
trcate and uncertan. I know a few who have
been promoted n consequence of havng asssted
the Government wth ther pens. uch s the case
of a cergyman, whose work aganst the prveges
of the provnce of Bscay was the preude to the
repea of ts ancent charters under the Prnce of the
Peace : such s that of a earned sycophant who has
atey gven us a atona Cathechsm, n mtaton
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L TT P P0M P I . 331
of one pubshed by apoeon after hs accesson to
the throne of rance, settng forth the dvne rght
of ngs, and the duty of passve obedence. But
the despotsm whch crushes us, s too pampered
and overgrown to requre the assstance of pensoned
scrbbers. There was a perod when the Prnce of
the Peace was peased to see hs name n verse
but crowds of sonnetteers showered so profusey
ther prases upon hm, that he has grown nsens-
be to the voce of the Muses. He, now and then,
rewards some of hs cerca courters, wth a re-
commendaton to the mnster, whch amounts to a
postve order but seems rather shy of meddng
wth such patry concerns. It s the ueen who
has, of ate, taken possesson of the keys of the
church, whch she commts nto the hands of her
frst ady of the bed-chamber, aowng her to evy
a to on such as appy for admttance to the snug
corners of the estabshment. I do not report from
hearsay. The son of a very respectabe eve
tradesman, whom I have known a my fe, havng
taken orders, became acquanted wth a person
thoroughy conversant wth the state of the Court,
who put hm n possesson of the secret sprngs
whch mght promote hm at once to a prebenda
sta n the cathedra of hs own town. The young
man had no quafcatons but a handsome person,
and a pretty ong purse, of whch, however, hs
father had st the strngs n hs own hands.
our thousand doars, or two years ncome of
the prebend, was the market-prce then f ed
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332 L TT P P0M P I .
f ed by the ady of the bedchamber and though
the good du man, the father, was not unwng
to ay out the money so evdenty to the advantage
of hs son, he had heard somethng about smony,
a word whch, together wth hs natura re-
uctance to part wth hs buon, gave hm such
quams of conscence as threatened to quash the
young man s hopes. The atter possessed but a
very scanty stock of earnng, but was not easy
drven to hs wt s end and, knowng too we the
versate nature of casustry, proposed a consutaton
of three reverend dvnes, n order to take ther
opnon as to the awfuness of the transacton. The
pont beng duy debated, t appeared that, snce
the essence of smony s the purchase of sprtua
thngs for money, and the nterest of the ueen s
confdant was perfecty wordy and tempora, t
mght conscentousy be bought for the sum at
whch she vaued t. The young man, furnshed
wth hs god credentas, was a short tme ago
propery ntroduced to the ueen s femae favourte.
Havng attended her evenng partes for a short
tme, he has, wthout farther troube, been pre-
sented to the vacant sta at eve.
The hardshps of a Pretendente s fe, especay
such as do not centre ther vews n the church, have
often furnshed the theatre wth amusng scenes.
The pansh proverba mprecaton May you be
dragged about as a Pretendente cannot be fet n ts
fu force but by such as, ke mysef, have ved on
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L TT P P0M P I .
333
terms of ntmacy wth some of that unfortunate
race. . scanty suppy of money from ther fam-
es s the ony fund on whch a young man, n pur-
sut of a |udge s gown, must draw for subsstence,
for three or four |ourneys a year to the os, n
order to attend the Court for the court-dress whch
he s obged to wear amost day and the turns of
-uck at the card-tabe of hs ady patroness.
What a noton woud an ngshman form of our
degree of refnement, f he was to enter one of the
odgng-houses at ran|uez, for nstance, and fnd a
arge paved court surrounded by apartments, each
fed by a dfferent set of odgers, wth three or four
wretched beds, and not so many chars for a fur-
nture here one of the party backng hs shoes
there another darnng hs stockngs a thrd brush-
ng the court-dress he s to wear at the mnster s
evee whe a fourth es st n bed, restng, as
we as he can, from the ast nght s ba s hack-
ney coaches are not known ether at Madrd or the
tos, there s somethng both ptabe and ud-
crous n the appearance of these |udges, ntendants,
and governors n embryo, sayng forth n fu
dress, after ther aborous toet, to pck ther way
through the mud, often castng an an ous ook on
the ace frs and ruffes whch, artfuy attached to the
seeves and wastcoat, mght by some untoward acc-
dent, betray the coarse and dscooured shrt whch
they meant to concea. Thus they trudge to the paace,
to wak up and down the gaeres for hours, t they
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334
L TT P P0M P I .
have succeeded n makng a bow to the mns-
ter, or any other great personage, on whom ther
hopes depend. Havng performed ths mportant
pece of duty, they retre to a very scanty dnner,
uness ther good stars shoud put them n the way
of an nvtaton. In the afternoon they must make
ther appearance n the pubc wak, where the
roya famy take a day arng after whch, the
day s cosed by the attendance at the Tertua of
some great ady, f they be fortunate enough to
have obtaned her eave to pay her ths day tr-
bute of respect.
uch as vst Madrd and the tos, ndependent
of Court favour, may, for a few weeks, fnd amuse-
ment n the strangeness of the scene. The Court
of pan s, otherwse, too du, stff, and forma, to
become an nterestng resdence. The ony good
socety n the upper ranks s to be found among
the Corps Dpomatque. The ng, whoy occu-
ped n the chase, and the ueen n her boudor,
are, of ate, e tremey averse to the theatres. Two
pansh pay-houses are st aowed to be open
every nght but the opera has been dscontnued
for severa years, merey because t was a day ren-
dezvous for the hgher casses. o |eaous s the
ueen of fashonabe assembes, that the grandees
do not venture to admt more than four or fve n-
dvduas to ther tertuas and scarcey a ba s
gven at Madrd n the course- of the year. Ths,
however, s never attempted wthout askng the
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L TT P P0M P I . 335
ueen s permsson. The Marchoness of antago,
whose evenng partes were numerous, and attended
by the most agreeabe and accompshed peope n
the capta, was, a short tme snce, obged, by an
ntmaton communcated through the poce, to
deny her house to her frends.
ven bu-fghts have been forbdden, and the
de popuaton of the metropos of pan have
been eft no other source of amusement than co-
ectng every evenng n the e tensve wak caed
Prado, after havng ounged away the mornng
about the streets, or basked n the sun, durng the
wnter, at the Puerta de o, a arge space, amost
surrounded by pubc budngs. The coffee-rooms
are, n the cod season, crowded for about an hour
after dnner, . e. from three to four n the afternoon,
and n the eary part of the evenng but the nose,
and the smoke of the cgars, make these paces as
cose and dsagreeabe as any tap-room n London.
It woud be absurd to e pect any knd of ratona
conversaton n such paces. The most nterestng
topcs must be carefuy avoded, for fear of the
combned powers of the poce and the Inquston,
whose spes are dreaded n a pubc paces. Hence
the depraved taste whch degrades our ntercourse
to an eterna gggng and banterng.
0ur day resource for socety s the house of
Don Manue |osef untana, a young awyer,
whose poetca taents, seect readng, and varous
nformaton, pace hm among the frst of our men
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33
L TT P P0M P I .
of etters whe the kndness of hs heart, and the
ofty and honourabe prncpes of hs conduct,
make hm an nvauabe frend and most agreeabe
companon. fter our evenng wak n the Prado,
we retre to that genteman s study, where four or
fve others, of smar taste and opnons, meet to
converse wth freedom upon whatever sub|ects are
started. The potca prncpes of untana and
hs best frends consst n a rooted hatred of the e -
stng tyranny, and a great dske of the prevang
nfuence of the rench mperer over the pansh
Court.
It was n ths knot of terary frends that an at-
tempt to estabsh a Monthy Magazne orgnated,
a short tme before my arrva at Madrd. But
such s the stessness of the country on every-
thng reatng to terature, such the trammes n
whch the Censors confne the nventon of the
wrters, that the pubcaton of the Msceanea was
gven up n a few months. ew, besdes, as our
men of taste are n number, they have spt nto
two partes, who pursue each other wth the wea-
pons of satre and rdcue.
Moratn, the frst of our comc wrters a man
whose genus, were he free from the pre|udces of
strct adherence to the Untes, and e treme serv-
ty to the rstotec rues of the drama, mght have
rased our theatre to a decded superorty over the
rest of urope, and who, notwthstandng the tram-
mes n whch he e erts hs taents, has gven us
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L TT P P0M P I .
33/
s pays, whch for the eegance, the veness, and
the refned graces of the daogue, as we as the
varety, the truth, the nterest, and comc power of
the characters, do not yed, n my opnon, to the
best modern peces of the rench, or the ngsh
stage Moratn, I say, may be consdered as the
centre of one of the sma terary partes of ths
capta, whe untana s the eader of the other.
Dfference of opnon on terary sub|ects s not,
however, the source of ths dvson. Moratn and
hs frends have courted the favour of the Prnce of
the Peace, whe untana has never addressed a
ne to the favourte. Ths tact reproach, embt-
tered, very probaby, by others rather too e pct,
dropped by the ndependent party, has knded a
sprt of enmty among the Court terat, whch,
besdes producng a tota separaton, breaks out n
satre and nvectve on the appearance of any com-
poston from the pen of untana.
I have been nsensby ed where I cannot avod
enterng upon the sub|ect of terature, though from
the nature of these etters, as we as the mts to
whch I am forced to confne them, t was my n-
tenton to pass t over n sence. I sha not, how-
ever, gve you any specuatons on so e tensve a
topc, but content mysef wth makng you ac-
quanted wth the names whch form the scanty
st of our vng poets.
I have aready mentoned Moratn and untana.
I do not know that the former has pubshed any
z
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L TT P P0M P I .
thng besdes hs pays, or that he has, as yet,
gven a coecton of them to the pubc. I con-
ceve that some fears of the Inqustora censures
are the cause of ths deay. There has, ndeed,
been a tme when hs pay, La Moggata, or emae
Devotee, was scarcey aowed to be acted, t beng
beeved that, but for the patronage of the Prnce of
the Peace, t woud ong before have been paced n
the st of forbdden works.
untana has pubshed a sma coecton of short
poems, whch deservedy casses hm among those
panards who are |ust aowed to gve a specmen
of ther powers, and shew us the waste of ta-
ents for whch our oppressve system of govern-
ment s answerabe to cvzed urope. He has
embeshed the tte-page of hs book wth an em-
bematca vgnette, where a wnged human fgure
s seen chaned to the threshod of a goomy Gothc
structure, ookng up to the Tempe of the Muses
n the atttude of resgned despondency. I shoud
not have mentoned ths trfng crcumstance,
were t not a fresh proof of the pervadng feeng
under whch every asprng mnd among us s
doomed hopeessy to nger.
It s not, however, the Gothc structure of our
natona system aone whch confnes the poetc
genus of pan. There s (f I may venture some
vague con|ectures upon a dffcut and not yet fary
tred sub|ect) a want of fe bty n the pansh
anguage, arsng from the great ength of most
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L TT P P0M P I .
33
of ts words, the tte varety of ts termnatons,
and the bukness of ts adverbs, whch must for
ever, I fear, cog ts verse. The sound of our best
poetry s grand and ma|estc ndeed but t requres
an uncommon sk to subdue and modfy that
sound, so as to reeve the ear and satsfy the mnd.
nce the ntroducton of the Itaan measures
by Boscan and Garcaso, at the begnnng of the
s teenth century, our best poets have been serve
mtators of Petrarch, and the wrters of that schoo.
very pansh poet has, ke the knght of La
Mancha, thought t hs bounden duty to be des-
peratey n ove, dervng both hs sub|ect and
hs nspraton from a mnute dssecton of hs
ady. The anguage, n the mean tme, con-
demned for centures, from the une amped savery
of our press, to be empoyed amost e cusvey n
the day and famar ntercourse of fe, has had ts
rchest ornaments tarnshed and soed, by the pow-
erfu nfuence of menta assocaton. carcey one
thrd of ts copous dctonary can be used n dgn-
fed prose, whe a very scanty st of words composes
the whoe stock whch poetry can use wthout pro-
ducng ether a sense of dsgust or rdcue. In
spte of these fetters, untana s poetca compos-
tons convey much deep thought and rea feeng
and shoud an une pected revouton n potcs aow
hs mnd that freedom, wthout whch the most v-
gorous shoots of genus soon scken and persh, hs
powerfu numbers mght we nspre hs country-
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340
L TT P P0M P I .
men wth that ardent and dsnterested ove -of
berty whch adds dgnty to the amabeness of
hs character.
The poet who has obtaned most popuarty n
our days s Meendez, a awyer, who, havng for
some tme been a professor of pote terature
at aamanca, was rased by the Prnce of the Peace
to a pace n the Counc of Caste, and, not ong
after, rustcated to hs former resdence, where he
remans to ths day. Meendez s a man of great
natura taents, mproved by more readng and n-
formaton than s commony found among our men
of taste. Hs popuarty as a poet, however, was at
frst rased on the very sght and doubtfu foundaton
of a coecton of nacreontcs, and a few ove-poems,
possessng tte more mert than an harmonous an-
guage, and a certan eegant smpcty. Meendez,
n hs youth, was deepy nfected wth the mawksh
sensbty of the schoo of Gessner and had he not
by degrees amed at nober sub|ects than hs Dove,
and hs Phys, a sender progress n the natona
taste of pan woud have been suffcent to con-
sgn hs eary poems to the toettes of our town
shepherdesses. He has, however, n hs maturer
age, added a coecton of odes to hs pastoras,
where he shows hmsef a great master of pansh
verse, though st defcent n bodness and org-
naty. That he ranks tte above the degree of a
sweet versfer, s more to be attrbuted to that want
of freedom whch cps the wngs of thought n
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L TT P P0M P I .
341
every panard, than to the absence of rea genus.
It s reported that Meendez s empoyed n a trans-
aton of rg: shoud he ve to compete t, I
have no doubt t w do honour to our country.
Durng the attempt to awaken the pansh Muse,
whch has been made for the ast ffty years, none
has struck out a farer path towards her emancpa-
ton from the affected, stff, and cumbrous stye n
whch she was dressed by our Petrarchsts of the
s teenth century than a nava offcer named r-
raza. If hs admrabe command of anguage, and
veness of fancy, were supported by any depth of
thought, acqured knowedge, or the east degree
of rea feeng the panards woud have an or-
gna poet to boast of.
ew as the names of note are n the poetca
department, I fear I must be competey sent
n regard to the branch of eoquence. ears pass
wth us wthout the pubcaton of any orgna
work. few transatons from the rench, wth
now and then a sermon, s a the Madrd Gazette
can muster to f up ts page of advertsements.
compaton, entted agero Unversa, and
the transaton of Guthre s Grammar of Geography,
are ooked upon as efforts both of terary ndustry
and commerca enterprse.
There e st two Poya cademes one for the
mprovement of the pansh Language, the other
for the advancement of atona Hstory. We owe
to the former an -dgested dctonary, wth a very
bad grammar and to the atter some vauabe ds-
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342
L TT P P0M f I .
courses, and an ncompete geographca and hs-
torca dctonary. Had the pansh cademy con-
tnued ther eary abours, and caed n the ad of
rea taent, nstead of fng up the st of members
wth tted names, whch have made t rdcuous
ther Dctonary mght, wthout great dffcuty,
have been mproved nto a spendd dspay of one
of the rchest among modern anguages and the
phosophca sprt of the age woud have been ap-
ped to the eucdaton of ts eements. That ca-
demy has pubshed a voume of prze essays and
poems, the fruts of a very feebe competton, n
whch the poetry partakes argey of the servty of
mtaton to whch I have aready auded, and the
prose s generay stff and affected. 0ur stye, n
fact, s, at present, qute unsetted fuctuatng
between the wordy pomposty of our od wrters,
wthout ther ease, and the epgrammatc concse-
ness of second-rate rench wrters, strpped of ther
sprghtness and graces. s ong, however, as we
are condemned to the dead sence n whch the
naton has been kept for centures, there s tte
chance of f ng any standard of taste for pansh
eoquence. Capmany, probaby our best vng ph-
oogst and prose wrter, nssts upon our borrow-
ng every word and phrase from the authors of the
s teenth century, the goden age (as t s caed)
of our terature whe the Madrd transators seem
determned to make the pansh anguage a daect
of the rench a sort of Patos, unntegbe to
ether naton. The true path certany es between
G
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L TT P P0M P I .
343
both. The greatest part of our anguage has been
aowed to become vugar or obsoete. The an-
guages whch, durng the menta progress of u-
rope, have been made the vehces and nstruments
of thought, have eft ours far behnd n the powers
of abstracton and precson and the rch treasure
whch has been aowed to e bured so ong, must
be re-coned and burnshed, before t can be recog-
nsed for sterng currency. It s nether by re|ect-
ng as foregn whatever e pressons cannot be found
n the wrters under the ustran dynasty, nor by
dsfgurng our dom wth Gacsms, that we can
e pect to shape t to our present wants and fashons.
0ur am shoud be to thnk for ourseves n our own
anguage to thnk, I say, and e press our thoughts
wth cearness, force, and precson not to mtate
the mere sound of the empty perods whch gene-
ray swe the pages of the od pansh wrters.
I do not mean, however, to pester you wth a
dssertaton. Wretched as s the present state of
pansh terature, t woud requre a dstnct seres
of etters to trace the causes of ts decay, to reate
the vcsstudes t has suffered, and to wegh the
comparatve merts of such as, under the deadenng
nfuence of the most absoute despotsm, are st
endeavourng to feed the smouderng fre, whch,
but for ther efforts, woud have ong snce been e -
tngushed.
ou w, I trust, e cuse ths short dgresson, n
the sure hope that I sha resume the usua gossp
n my ne t etter.
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344
L TT P P0M P I .
L TT P II.
eve, |uy 25, 1808.
cau T D as you must be wth the events
whch, for these ast two months, have f ed the eyes
of urope on ths country, t can gve you tte
surprse to fnd me datng agan from my natve
town. I have arrved |ust n tme to wtness the
unbounded |oy whch the defeat of Dupont s army,
at Bayen, has dffused over ths town. The ar re-
sounds wth accamatons, and the deafenng can-
gour of the Cathedra bes, announces the arrva of
the vctorous Genera Castanos, who, more sur-
prsed at the trumph of hs arms than any one of
hs countrymen, s |ust arrved to gve thanks to
the body of ant erdnand, and to repose a few
days under hs aures.
There s somethng very meanchoy n the wd
enthusasm, the overweenng confdence, and mad
boastng whch preva n ths town. Lued nto a
securty whch threatens nstant death to any who
shoud dare dsturb t wth a word of cauton, both
the |unta and the peope ook on the present war
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L TT P P0M P I .
345
as ended by ths snge bow and whe they spend,
n processons and Te-Deums, the favourabe mo-
ments when they mght advance on Madrd, ther
want of foresght, and utter gnorance of the means
of retaaton possessed bv the enemy, nduce them
oudy to ca for the nfracton of the captuaton
whch has paced a rench army n ther power.
The troops, whch the artces agreed upon entte
to a conveyance to ther own country, are, by the
effect of popuar camour, to be confned n huks,
n the Bay of Cadz. Genera Dupont s the ony
ndvdua who, besdes beng treated wth a degree
of courtesy and respect, whch, were t not for the
rumours afoat, woud brng destructon upon the
|unta has been promsed a safe retreat nto rance.
He s now handsomey odged n a Domncan
convent, and attended by a numerous guard of
honour. The mornng after hs prvate arrva, the
peope began to assembe n crowds, and conse-
quences fata to the Genera were dreaded. evera
members of the |unta, who were eary to pay the
genera ther respects, and chefy one Padre G,
a wd, haf-earned monk, whose nfuence over the
evan mob s unbounded came forward, desr-
ng the muttude to dsperse. Whether truth and
the urgency of the case forced out a secret, known
ony to the |unta or whether t was an artfce of
the orator, who, among hs eccentrctes and moun-
ee Letter . p. 30 .
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34
L TT P P0M P I .
tebank trcks, must be aowed the prase of bod-
ness n openy condemnng the murders of whch
the mob has been guty he asserted n hs speech,
that pan was more ndebted to Dupont than
the peope were aware of. These words, uttered
wth a strong and mysterous emphass, had the de-
sred effect, and the rench genera has now ony
to dread the treatment whch may awat hm n
rance, n consequence of hs defeat and surrender.
Havng made you acquanted wth the ony cr-
cumstances n the ast most mportant event, whch
the pubc accounts are not key to menton, I
sha have done wth news a sub|ect to whch I
fee an unconquerabe averson and begn my ac-
count of the mted fed of observaton n whch
my own movements, snce the frst approach of the
present troubes, have paced me.
The frst vsbe symptom of mpendng convu-
sons was the arrest of erdnand, then Prnce of
sturas, by order of hs father. My nseparabe
companon, Leandro, had been for some tme ac-
quanted wth a favourte of the Prnce of the Peace,
who, beng ke my frend, addcted to musc, had
often asked us to hs amateur partes. 0n the
second of ast ovember we were surprsed by a
etter from that genteman, requestng my frend to
proceed to the scura wthout deay, on busness
of great mportance. s we waked to the Puerta
de o, to procure a one-horse chase, caed Caeza,
the news of the Prnce s arrest was whspered to us,
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L TT P P0M P I .
347
by an acquantance, whom we met at that wnter
resort of a the Madrd oungers. We consuted
for a few mnutes on the e pedency of venturng
near the Lon s den, when hs Ma|esty was so per-
fecty out of a temper but curosty and a certan
ove of adventure prevaed, and we set off at a
round trot for the scura.
The vage ad|acent to the budng bearng that
name, s one of the meanest n that part of Caste.
Houses for the accommodaton of the ng s sute
have been erected at a short dstance from the mo-
nastc paace, whch the roya famy dvde wth
the numerous communty of Heronymtes, to whom
Php II. assgned one wng of that magnfcent
structure. But such as, foowng the Court on
busness, are obged to take odgngs n the negh-
bourhood, must be contented wth the most wretch-
ed hoves. In one of these we found our frend,
Coone ., who, though mtary tutor to the
youngest of the ng s sons, mght we have e -
changed hs room and furnture for such as are
found n ngand at the most mserabe pot-house.
My ntmacy wth Leandro was accepted as an e -
cuse for my ntruson, and we were each accommo-
dated wth a trucke-bed, qucky set up n the two
opposte corners of the Coone s sttng-room. The
ob|ect of the summons whch had occasoned our
|ourney, was not ong kept a secret. The cergy-
man who superntended the cassca studes of the
Infante Don rancsco de Paua, was suspected of
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348
L TT P P0M P I .
havng asssted the Prnce of sturas n the secret
appcaton to Buonaparte, whch had produced the
present breach n the roya famy. houd the
proofs of hs nnocence, whch the tutor had pre-
sented to the ng and ueen, fa to re-estabsh
hm n ther good opnon, my frend woud be pro-
posed as a successor, and enter wthout deay upon
the dutes of the offce. The whoe busness was
to be decded n the course of the ne t day. The
present beng the commemoraton of the Departed,
or - ous Day, we wshed to vst the church
durng the evenng servce. 0n takng eave of
the Coone, he cautoned us not to approach that
part of the budng where the Prnce was confned
under a guard, to hs own apartments.
Though ths was our frst vst to the scu-
ra, the dscosure whch had |ust been made to
my frend, was of too mportant a nature to eave
us n a ft mood to en|oy the soemn grandeur of the
structure to whch we were drectng our steps, and
the rude magnfcence of the surroundng scene.
To be paced near one of the members of the roya
famy, when that famy had spt nto two rrecon-
ceabe partes, and to be reckoned among the
enemes of the her apparent, was, at once, to
punge headong nto the most dangerous vorte of
Court ntrgue whch had yet threatened to over-
whem the country. To decne the ofer, when the
conddate s name had n a probabty receved the
sancton of the Prnce of the Peace, was to ncur
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L TT P P0M P I .
34
suspcon from those who had arbtrary power n
ther hands. In ths awkward demma, our most
fatterng prospect was the acqutta of the tutor,
an event by no means mprobabe, consderng the
we-known duness of that grave personage, and
the hnts of the approachng reease of the Prnce,
whch we had gathered from the Coone. We
therefore proposed to dvert our thoughts from the
sub|ect of our fears by contempatng the ob|ects
before us.
The scura ncoses wthn the crcut of ts
massve and ofty was, the ng s paace, the mo-
nastery, wth a magnfcent church, and the Pan-
theon, or subterranean vaut of beautfu marbe,
surrounded wth spendd sarcophag, for the re-
mans of the pansh ngs and ther fames. It
stands near the top of a rugged mountan, n the
chan whch separates 0d from ew Caste, and
by the sde of an enormous mass of rock, whch
supped the archtect wth materas. It was the
facty of quarryng the stone where t was to be
empoyed, that made the goomy tyrant, Php II.,
mark out ths wd spot n preference to others,
equay sequestered and ess e posed to the fury of
the wnds, whch bow here wth ncredbe vo-
ence. To have an adequate sheter from the bast,
an ampe passage, we ared and ghted, was con-
trved by the archtect from the paace to the
vage.
The suen aspect of the budng the beak and
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.H50
L TT P P0M P I .
rude mountan top, near whch t stands more n
rvary than contrast the wd and e tensve gen
openng beow, covered wth woods of rugged,
shapeess, stunted e , surrounded by brushwood
the sotude and sence whch the evenng twght
bestowed on the whoe scenery, ncreased to the
fancy by the shy and retrng manners of a scanty
popuaton, traned under the aternate awe of the
Court, and ther own mmedate ords, the monks,
a ths, heghtened by the breathess e pectaton
whch the mprsonment of the her apparent had
created, and the cautous ooks of the few attend-
ants who had foowed the roya famy on ths oc-
cason mpressed us wth a vague feeng of nsecu-
rty, whch t woud be dffcut to e press or ana-
yze. o one e cept ourseves and the monks,
perambuatng the ases wth ghted tapers n ther
hands, n order to chant drges to the memory of
the founder and benefactors, was to be seen wthn
the precncts of the tempe. The vauts re-echoed
our very steps when the chorus of deep voces had
yeded to the trembng accents of the od prest
who presded at the ceremony. To skuk n the
dark, mght have e cted suspcon, and to come
wthn the gare of the monks tapers, was the sure
means of rasng ther unbounded curosty. We
soon therefore gded nto the costers ne t to the
church. But, not beng we acquanted wth the
ocaty of the mmense and ntrcate abyrnth
whch the monastery presents to a stranger, the fear
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L TT P P0M P I .
351
of gettng upon forbdden ground, or of beng
ocked up for the nght, nduced us to retre to our
odgngs.
Wth the approbaton of our host, we ventured
the ne t mornng to appy to the monk, who acts,
by appontment, as the Ccerone of the monastery,
for a vew of the chef curostes t contans. He
aowed us a wak n the magnfcent and vauabe
brary, whch s sad to be one of the rchest uro-
pean treasures of ancent manuscrpts a treasure,
ndeed, whch, admdst those mountans, and under
the contro of an bera government and a set of
gnorant, azy monks, may be sad to be hd n the
earth. The coecton of frst-rate pctures at the
scura s mmense and the was may be sad to
be covered wth them. 0ne has ony to ounge
about the numerous costers of the Monastery, to
satate the most cravng appette for the beautes of
art. 0ur gude, however, who took no peasure n
gong over the same ground for the ten-thousandth
tme, hurred us to the coecton of recs, n whch
he seemed to take a never fang deght. I w
not gve you the st of these sprtua treasures.
It fs up a arge board from three to four feet n
ength, and of a proportonate breadth, at the en-
trance of the chor. et I cannot omt that we
were shewn the body of one of the nnocents mas-
sacred by Herod, and some coaguated mk of the
rgn Mary. The monk cast upon us hs dark,
penetratng eyes, as he e hbted these two most
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.-552 L TT P P0M P I -.
curous ob|ects but the ar of the scura has a
pecuar power to engthen and f the musces of
the face. There s, n the same room whch con-
tans the recs, a curous bo of a back shnng
wood, probaby ebony, the whoe d of whch s
covered, on the nsde, wth the wards of a most
compcated ock. It s sad to have contaned the
secret correspondence of the unfortunate Don Car-
os, whch hs unnatura father, Php II., made
the prete t for hs mprsonment, and probaby for
the voent death whch s supposed to have ended
hs msery.
0n returnng from the nspecton of the Mo-
nastery, our suspense was reeved by the wecome
ntegence that the Infante s tutor had been fuy
acqutted. The Prnce of sturas, we were tod
aso, had mentoned to the ng the names of hs
advsers, and was now reeased from confnement.
My frend was too conscous of the danger whch,
n the shape of promoton, had hung over hs
head for some hours, not to re|oce n what many
woud ca hs dsappontment. He had probaby
daed some moments wth ambton but, f so,
he was fortunate enough to perceve that she had
drawn hm to the brnk of a precpce.
The Prnce of the Peace had, aganst hs custom,
remaned at Madrd durng the scura season,
that he mght escape the mputaton of promotng
the unhappy dvsons of the roya famy. ome-
thng was rumoured at Madrd of a dsmemberment
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L TT P P0M P I .
353
of Portuga ntended by Bonaparte, n consequence
of whch Godoy was to obtan an ndependent so-
veregnty. Ths report, orgnay whspered about
by the frends of the atter, was competey hushed
up n a few days whe, nstead of the buoyancy
of sprts whch the prospect of a crown was key
to produce n the favourte, care and an ety were
observed to urk n a hs words and motons. He
contnued, however, hodng hs weeky evees
and as the rench troops were pourng nto the
pansh terrtory, endeavoured to concea hs
aarm by an ar of drectng ther movements.
When, however, the rench had taken amost vo-
ent possesson of some of our fortresses, and were
seen advancng to Madrd wth Murat at ther
head, there was no farther room for dssmuaton.
Though I had no ob|ect at Godoy s evees but the
amusement of seeng a spendd assemby, open to
every mae or femae who appeared n a decent
dress that de curosty happened to take me to
the ast he hed at Madrd. He appeared, as usua,
at the farthest end of a ong saoon or gaery, sur-
rounded by a numerous sute of offcers, and ad-
vanced sowy between the company, who had made
a way for hm n the mdde. uch as wshed to
speak to hm took care to stand n front, whe those
who, ke mysef, were content to pay for ther
admsson wth a bow, kept purposey behnd.
Godoy stood now before the group, of whch I
2
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354
L TT P P0M P I .
formed one of the east vsbe fgures, and bowng af-
faby, as was hs manner, sad, n a oud voce, Gen-
temen, the rench advance fast upon us we must
be upon our guard, for there s abundance of bad
fath on ther sde. It was now evdent that a-
poeon had cast off the mask under whch he was
htherto actng and such as heard ths speech had
no doubt that the arrva of Izquerdo, Godoy s
confdenta agent at Pars, had at once undeceved
hm fng hm wth shame and ve aton at the
gross artfce to whch he had been a dupe.
Ths happened about the begnnng of March.
The Court had proceeded to ther sprng resdence
of ran|uez, and the Prnce of the Peace |oned the
roya famy soon after. vsbe goom had, by
ths tme, overcast Madrd, arsng chefy from a
rumour, that t was ntended- by the ng and
ueen to foow the e ampe of the Portuguese
famy, and make ther escape to Me co. ew
among the better casses were dsposed, from ove
or oyaty, to oppose such a determnaton. But
Madrd and the roya tos- woud snk nto nsg-
nfcance, were the Court to be removed to a ds-
tance. The dssouton of the most wretched Go-
vernment aways fs ts dependents wth conster-
naton and the pampered guards wth whch the
prde of pansh royaty had surrounded the throne,
coud not endure to be eveed, by the absence of
the soveregn, wth the rest of the army. The
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L TT P P0M P I . 355
pan, therefore, of a fght out of pan, wth the
ocean at the dstance of four hundred mes, was
perfecty absurd and mpractcabe.
The departure of the roya famy had, wth a
possbe secrecy, been f ed for the 1 th of March.
Measures, however, were taken by erdnand s
frends, on the frst appearance of preparatons for
the |ourney, to defeat the ntentons of the ng,
the ueen, and the favourte. umbers of the
peasantry were sent to ran|uez from vages at a
consderabe dstance and the pansh foot-guards,
the Waoons, and the horse-guards engaged to sup-
port the peope. oon after mdnght, before the
1 th, a furous attack was made by the popuace on
the house of the Prnce of the Peace, who, eapng
out of hs bed, had scarcey tme to escape the knves
whch were struck, n frenzed dsappontment,
where the warmth of the sheets ceary shewed
how recenty he had eft them. s the doors were
carefuy guarded, no doubt remaned of hs beng
st n the house and after the sght search whch
coud be made by artfca ght, t was determned
to guard a the outets t the approachng day.
The aarm soon spread to the roya paace, where
the Prnce s frends, among whom pocy had ranged
at ths crtca moment, the mnsters who owed
most to Godoy haed, n the ng s terror, and
the ueen s an ety to save the febf her over, the
farest openng for pacng erdnand on the throne.
Day-ght had enabed the rngeaders to begn the
2 a 2
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L TT P P0M P I .
most actve search after the Prnce of the Peace
and the certanty of hs presence on the spot ren-
dered hs destructon nevtabe. It does honour,
ndeed, to the affectonate and humane character
of Chares, whatever we may thnk of hs other
quates, that he resgned the crown from eager-
ness to rescue hs fathess frend. The ng s ab-
dcaton was pubshed to the muttude, wth whom
the guards had taken an open and decded part,
and erdnand appeared on horseback to fuf the
engagement he had made to hs parents of protect-
ng the favourte from the assassns. The unfortu-
nate man, after a confnement of more than tweve
hours, n a recess over the attcs of hs house, where
he had urked, wth scarcey any cothng, and n
absoute want of food and drnk, was, f I may cre-
dt report, compeed by thrst to beg the assst-
ance of a servant who betrayed hm to hs pursuers.
What saved hm from fang on the spot, a vctm
to the ferceness of hs enemes whether the de-
sre of the eaders to nfct upon hm a pubc and
gnomnous death, or some better feengs, of such
as, at ths fearfu moment, surrounded hs person
I am not abe to te. or woud I deprve the
new ng of whatever cam to genune humanty
hs conduct on ths occason may have gven hm.
I can ony state the fact that, under hs escort
Godoy was carred a prsoner to the Horse-guard
Barracks, not, however, wthout recevng some
severe wounds on the way, nfcted by such as
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L TT P P0M P I .
357
woud not mss the honour of feshng ther knves
on the man whom but a few hours before, they
woud not have ventured to ook body n the
face.
The news of the revouton at ran|uez had
spread through the capta by the evenng of the
1 th and t was but too evdent that a storm was
gatherng aganst the nearest reatons of Godoy.
ght had scarcey come on, when a furous mob
nvaded the house of Don Dego, the favourte s
younger brother. The ampe space whch the mag-
nfcent Cae de caa eaves at ts openng nto
the Prado, of whch that house forms a corner, af-
forded room not ony for the operatons of the rot-
ers, but for a muttude of spectators, of whom I
was one mysef. The house havng been broken
nto, and found deserted, the whoe of the rch fur-
nture t contaned was thrown out at the wndows.
e t came down the very doors, and f tures of a
knds, whch, made nto an enormous pe wth
tabes, bedsteads, chests of drawers, and panos,
were soon n a baze, that, but for the stness of
the evenng, mght have spread to the unoffendng
neghbourhood. Havng en|oyed ths spendd and
costy bonfre, the mob ranged themseves n a knd
of processon, bearng nt-torches, taken from the
numerous chanders-shops whch are found at Ma-
drd and drected ther steps to the house of the
Prnce rancforte, Godoy s brother-n-aw.
The magstrates, however, had by ths tme f ed
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358 L TT P P0M P I .
a board on the doors both of that and Godoy s
own house, gvng notce that the property both
of the favourte and hs near reatons had been
confscated by the new ng. Ths was suffcent
to turn away the mob from the remanng ob|ects
of ther fury and wthout any farther mschef,
they were contented wth spendng the whoe nght
n the streets, bearng about ghted torches, and
drnkng at the e pense of the wne-retaers, whose
shops, ke your pot-houses, are the common re-
sort of the vugar. The rot dd not cease wth the
mornng. Crowds of men and women paraded the
streets the whoe day, wth cres of Long ve
ng erdnand Death to Godoy The whoe
garrson of Madrd were aured out of ther bar-
racks by bands of women bearng ptchers of wne
n ther hands and a processon was seen about
the streets n the afternoon, where the soders,
m ed wth the peope, bore n ther freocks the
pam-branches whch,- as a protecton aganst ght-
nng, are commony hung at the wndows. et,
amdst ths fearfu dsorder, no nsut was offered to
the many ndvduas of the hgher casses, who
ventured among the mob. othng, however, ap-
pears to me so credtabe to the popuace of Ma-
drd, as ther abstanng from page at the house
of Dego Godoy every artce, however vauabe,
was fathfuy commtted to the fames.
Murat, wth hs army, was, durng these events, at
a short dstance from Madrd. The pan of puttng
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L TT P P0M P I . 35
the roya famy to fght had been frustrated by
the popuar commoton at ran|uez, and the une -
pected accesson of erdnand. But the new ng,
no ess than hs parents, hastenng by professons
of frendshp to court the support of rench power,
Murat proceeded to the pansh capta, there to
pursue the course whch mght be most conducve
to the vews of hs soveregn. I saw the entrance
of the dvson whch was to make the town ther
head-quarters. The rest occuped the envrons,
some n a camp wthn haf a me, and some n
the neghbourng vages. The rench entered as
frends, and they cannot say that the nhabtants
shewed, upon that occason, the east symptoms of
hostty. The promnent feeng whch mght be
observed n the capta, was a most an ous e pecta-
ton but I know severa nstances of rench so-
ders reeved by the common peope and had
Murat acknowedged erdnand II., he wth hs
troops woud have been haed and treated as bro-
thers.
The rench troops had been but a few days
at Madrd, when erdnand eft ran|uez for hs
capta, where Murat nhabted the magnfcent
house of the Prnce of the Peace, wthn a very
short dstance of the roya paace. rom thence he
encouraged the young ng s hopes of a speedy re-
cognton by the mperor, e cusng hmsef, at the
same tme, for takng no notce of erdnand s
approach and presence, ether by hmsef or hs
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L TT P P0M P I .
troops. Wthout any other dspay but that of the
most enthusastc appause from the muttude,
erdnand, on horseback, and attended by a few
guards, appeared at the gate of tocha. I had
paced mysef near the entrance, and had a fu
vew of hm, a, surrounded by the peope on foot,
he moved on sowy, up the beautfu wak caed
Prado. ever dd monarch meet wth a more
oya and affectonate wecome from hs sub|ects
yet, never dd sub|ects behod a more vacant and
unmeanng countenance, even among the ong faces
of the pansh Bourbons. To features not at a
prepossessng, ether shyness or awkwardness had
added a stffness, whch, but for the moton of
the body, mght nduce a suspcon that we were
wastng our greetngs on a wa fgure.
s f for the sake of contrast, Murat, whose
handsome fgure on horseback was shewn to the
greatest advantage by a dress amost theatrca, ap-
peared every unday mornng n the Prado, sur-
rounded by generas and ad-de-camps, no ess
spenddy accoutred, there to revew the pcked
troops of hs army. umbers of peope were
drawn at frst by the strkng magnfcence of ths
marta spectace but |eaousy and dstrust were
fast succeedng to the suspense and doubt whch
the artfu evasons of the rench Prnce had been
abe to keep up for a tme.
The frst burst of ndgnaton aganst the rench
was caused by ther nterference n favour of the
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3 1
Prnce of the Peace. The peope of Madrd were
so eager for the pubc e ecuton of Godoy, that
when t was known that the man on whose hangng
carcase they day e pected to feast ther eyes, was
proceedng out of the kngdom under a rench
escort oud and ferce murmurs from a quarters of
the town announced the btter resentment of dsap-
ponted revenge. It was, nevertheess, st n the
power of apoeon to have kept the whoe naton at
hs devoton, by makng the ong-e pected recogn-
ton of erdnand. ven when, through the un-
worthy artfces whch are aready known to the
word, erdnand had been decoyed to Bayonne,
and the greatest an ety prevaed at Madrd as to
the resut of the |ourney, I wtnessed the |oy of an
mmense muttude coected at the Puerta de o,
ate n the evenng, when, probaby wth a vew to
dsperse them, the report was spread that the cou-
rer we had seen arrve, brought the ntegence of
apoeon s acknowedgement of the young ng,
and hs determnaton to adopt hm by marrage nto
hs own famy. The truth, however, coud not be
conceaed any onger and the pan of usurpaton,
whch was dscosed the ne t mornng, produced the
cearest ndcatons of an nevtabe catastrophe.
The wdest schemes for the destructon of the
rench dvson at Madrd were canvassed amost n
pubc, and wth very tte reserve. othng n-
deed so competey betrays our present gnorance as
to the power and effcency of reguar troops, as the
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302
L TT P P0M P I .
pro|ects whch were crcuated n the capta for an
attack on the rench corps, whch st paraded
every unday mornng n the Prado. hort pkes,
headed wth a sharp-cuttng crescent, were e -
pected to be dstrbuted to the spectators, who used
to range themseves behnd the cavary. t one
sgna the horses were to be houghed wth these
nstruments, and the nfantry attacked wth po-
nards. To remonstrate aganst such absurd and
vsonary pans, or to cauton ther advocates aganst
an unreserved dspay of hoste vews, whch, of
tsef, woud be enough to defeat the abest consp-
racy was not ony useess, but dangerous. The
pubc ferment grew rapdy, and Murat, who was
fuy apprsed of ts progress, began to shew hs n-
tenton of antcpatng resstance.
0ne unday afternoon, towards the end of pr,
as I was wakng wth a frend n the e tensve gar-
dens of the od roya paace Petro, (whch,
as they ad|on the Prado, are the usua resort of
such as wsh to avod a crowded wak,) the sound of
drums beatng to arms from severa quarters of the
town, drew us, not wthout trepdaton, to the nner
gate of the arge square, through whch ay our
way out of the paace. The confused voces of
men, and the more dstnct cres of the women, to-
gether wth the vew of two rench regments
drawn up n the square, and n the act of oadng
ther muskets, woud have paced us n the awkward
demma whether to venture out, or to stay, we
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L TT P P0M P I . 303
knew not how ong, n the sotary gardens had
not a rench offcer, whom I addressed, assured us
that we mght pass n front of the troops wthout
moestaton. The Prado, whch we had eft
thronged wth peope, was now perfecty empty,
e cept where some horse-patroes of the rench
were scuddng away n dfferent drectons. s we
proceeded towards the centre of the town, we were
tod that the aarm had been smutaneous and ge-
nera. Partes of rench cavary had been scourng
the streets and, n the wantonness of mtary
nsoence, some soders had made a cut now and
then at such as dd not fy fast enough before them.
The street-doors were, contrary to the usua prac-
tce, a shut as n the dead of nght, and but
a few groups of men were seen takng about the
recent and now subsdng aarm. mong these we
saw one shewng hs hat cut through by the
sabre of a rench dragoon. o one coud ether
earn or guess the cause of ths affray but I am
fuy convnced that t was ntended |ust to strke
fear nto the peope, and to dscourage arge meet-
ngs at the pubc waks. It was a preude to the
second of May that day whch has heaped the
curses of every panard on the head whch coud
pan ts horrors, and the heart that coud carry
them through to the ast, wthout shrnkng.
The nsurrecton of the second of May dd not
arse from any concerted pan of the panards t
was, on the contrary, brought about by Murat,
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304
L TT P P0M P I .
who, wshng to ntmdate the country, artfuy
contrved the means of producng an e poson
n the capta. The od ng s brother and one of
hs sons, who had been eft at Madrd, were, on
that day, to start for Bayonne. The sght of the
ast members of the roya famy eavng the coun-
try, under the present crcumstances, coud not
but produce a strong sensaton on a peope whose
feengs had for some months been racked to ds-
tracton. The Counc of Pegency strongy re-
commended the Infante s departure n the nght
but Murat nssted on ther settng off at nne
n the mornng. Long before that hour an e ten-
sve square, of whch the new Paace forms the
front, was crowded wth peope of the ower
casses. 0n the Prnces appearng n ther tra-
veng dresses, both men and women surrounded
the carrages, and cuttng the traces, shewed a de-
termnaton to prevent ther departure. 0ne of
Murat s ad-de-camps presentng hmsef at ths
moment, was nstanty assauted by the mob, and
he woud have faen a vctm to ther fury but for
the strong rench guard statoned near that gene-
ra s house. Ths guard was nstanty drawn up,
and ordered to fre on the peope.
My house stood not far from the Paace, n a
street eadng to one of the centra ponts of com-
muncaton wth the best part of the town. rush
of peope cryng To arms, conveyed to us the
frst notce of the tumut. I heard that the rench
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L TT P P0M P I .
troops were frng on the peope but the outrage
appeared to me both so mpotc and enormous,
that I coud not rest unt I went out to ascertan
the truth. I had |ust arrved at an openng named
Pazuea de anto Domngo, the meetng pont of
four arge streets, one of whch eads to the Paace,
when, hearng the sound of a rench drum n that
drecton, I stopped wth a consderabe number of
decent and quet peope, whom curosty kept rvet-
ted to the spot. Though a strong pquet of nfan-
try was fast advancng upon us, we coud not ma-
gne that we stood n any knd of danger. Under
ths mstaken noton we awated ther approach
but, seeng the soders hat and prepare ther arms,
we began nstanty to dsperse. dscharge of
musketry foowed n a few moments, and a man
fe at the entrance of the street, through whch I
was, wth a great throng, retreatng from the fre.
The fear of an ndscrmnate massacre arose so na-
turay from ths unprovoked assaut,that every one
tred to ook for safety n the narrow cross streets
on both sdes of the way. I hastened on towards
my house, and havng shut the front door, coud
thnk of no better e pedent, n the confused state
of my mnd, than to make ba-cartrdges for a
fowng-pece whch I kept. The frng of musketry
contnued, and was to be heard n dfferent drec-
tons. fter the apse of a few mnutes, the report
of arge peces of ordnance, at a short dstance,
greaty ncreased our aarm. They were fred from
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3
L TT P P0M P T .
a park of artery, whch, n great negect, and wth
no defnte ob|ect, was kept by the pansh Govern-
ment, n that part of the town. Murat, who had
ths day a hs troops under arms, on f ng the
ponts of whch they were to gan possesson, had
not forgotten the park of artery. strong coumn
approached t through a street facng the gate, at
whch Coone Daoz, a natve of my town, and my
own acquantance, who happened to be the senor
offcer on duty, had paced two arge peces oaded
wth grape shot. Determned to persh rather than
yed to the nvaders, and supported n hs deter-
mnaton by a few artery-men, and some nfantry
under the command of Bearde, another patrot
offcer he made consderabe havock among the
rench, t, overpowered by numbers, both these
gaant defenders of ther country fe, the atter
dead, the former desperatey wounded. The sence
of the guns made us suspect that the artery had
faen nto the hands of the assaants and the re-
port of some straggers confrmed that con|ecture.
we-dressed man had, n the mean tme, gone
down the street, cang oudy on the mae nha-
btants to repar to an od depdt of arms. But he
made no mpresson on that part of the town. To
attempt to arm the muttude at ths moment was,
n truth, tte short of madness. oon after the
begnnng of the tumut, two or three coumns of
nfantry entered by dfferent gates, makng them-
seves masters of the town. The route of the man
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L TT P P0M P I .
3 7
corps ay through the Cae Mayor, where the
houses, consstng of four or fve stores, afforded
the nhabtants the means of wreakng ther ven-
geance on the rench, wthout much danger from
ther arms. uch as had guns, fred from the wn-
dows whe tes, brcks, and heavy artces of fur-
nture, were thrown by others upon the heads of
the soders. But, now, the rench had occuped
every centra poston ther artery had struck
panc nto the confused muttude some of the
houses, from whch they had been fred at, had
been entered by the soders and the cavary were
makng prsoners among such as had not eary
taken to fght. s the peope had put to death
every rench soder, who was found unarmed about
the streets, the retaaton woud have been fearfu,
had not some of the chef pansh magstrates ob-
taned a decree of amnesty, whch they read n the
most dsturbed parts of the town.
But Murat thought he had not accompshed hs
ob|ect, uness an e ampe was made on a certan
number of the ower casses of ctzens. s the
amnesty e cuded any that shoud be found bearng
arms, the rench patroes of cavary, whch were
scourng the streets, searched every man they met,
and makng the casp knves whch our artsans and
abourers are accustomed to carry n ther pockets,
a prete t for ther crue and wcked purpose, ed
about one hundred men to be tred by a Court
Marta n other words, to be butchered n cod
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3 8
L TT P P0M P I .
bood. Ths horrd deed, the backest, perhaps,
whch has staned the rench name durng ther
whoe career of conquest, was performed at the fa
of day. mock trbuna of rench offcers havng
ascertaned that no person of note was among the
destned vctms, ordered them to be ed out of the
Pctro, the pace of ther short confnement, nto
the Prado where they were despatched by the
soders.
Ignorant of the rea state of the town, and hear-
ng that the tumut had ceased, I ventured out n
the afternoon towards the Puerta de o, where I
e pected to earn some partcuars of the day. The
cross streets whch ed to that pace were unusu-
ay empty but as I came to the entrance of one
of the avenues whch open nto that great rendez-
vous of Madrd, the buste ncreased, and I coud
see an advanced guard of rench soders formed
two-deep, across the street, and eavng about one-
thrd of ts breadth open to such as wshed to pass
up and down. t some dstance behnd them, n
the rreguar square whch bears the name of the
un s Gate, I dstngushed two peces of cannon,
and a very strong dvson of troops. Less than
ths hoste dspay woud have been suffcent to
check my curosty, f, st possessed wth the dea
that t was not the nterest of the rench to treat
us ke enemes, I had not, ke many others who
were on the same spot, thought that the peacefu
nhabtants woud be aowed to proceed unmo-
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L TT P P0M P I .
3
estcd about the streets of the town. Under ths
mpresson I went on wthout hestaton, t I was
wthn ffty yards of the advanced guard. Here a
sudden cry of au arnes, rased n the square, was
repeated by the soders before me the offcer gvng
the command to make ready. The peope fed up
the street n the utmost consternaton but my fear
havng aowed me, nstanty, to cacuate both
dstances and danger, I made a desperate push
towards the openng eft by the soders, where a
narrow ane, wndng round the Church of an Lus,
put me n a few seconds out of the range of the
rench muskets. o frng however beng heard,
I concuded that the ob|ect of the aarm was to cear
the streets at the approach of nght.
The ncreasng horror of the nhabtants, as they
coected the meanchoy detas of the mornng,
woud have accompshed that end, wthout any
farther effort on the part of the oppressors. The
bodes of some of ther vctms seen n severa
paces the wounded that were met about the
streets the vsbe angush of such as mssed ther
reatons and the spreadng report that many were
awatng ther fate at the Petro, so strongy and
panfuy rased the apprehensons of the peope,
that the streets were absoutey deserted ong be-
fore the approach of nght. very street-door was
ocked, and a mournfu sence prevaed wherever
I drected my steps. u of the most goomy deas,
I was approachng my odgngs by a pace caed
2 B
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37
L TT P P0M P I .
Postgo de an Martn, when I saw four pansh
soders bearng a man upon a adder, the ends of
whch they supported on ther shouders. s they
passed near me, the adder beng ncned forward,
from the steepness of the street, I recognzed the
features of my townsman and acquantance, Daoz,
vd wth approachng death. He had an wounded
snce ten n the mornng, n the pace where he
fe. He was not qute nsensbe when I met hm.
The sght moton of hs body, and the groan he
uttered as the nequaty of the ground, probaby,
ncreased hs pan, w never be effaced from my
memory.
nght passed under such mpressons, baffes
my feebe powers of descrpton. scene of cruety
and treachery e ceedng a mts of probabty,
had eft our apprehensons to range at arge, wth
scarcey any check from the cacuatons of |udg-
ment. The dead sence of the streets snce the
frst approach of nght, ony broken by the tramp-
ng of horses whch now and then were heard
passng aong n arge partes, had somethng e -
ceedngy dsma n a popuous town, where we were
accustomed to an ncessant and envenng buste.
The Madrd cres, the oudest and most vared n
pan, were mssed eary ne t mornng and t
was ten o cock before a snge street-door had
been open. othng but absoute necessty coud
nduce the peope to venture out.
0n the thrd day after the massacre, a note from
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L TT P P0M P I .
371
an ntmate frend obged me to cross the greatest
part of the town but though my way ay through
the prncpa streets of Madrd, the number of pa-
nards I met, dd not teray amount to s . In
every street and square of any note I found a strong
guard of rench nfantry, yng besde ther arms
on the pavement, e cept the sentne, who paced up r
and down at a short dstance. feeng of mort-
fed prde m ed tsef wth the sense of nsecurty
whch I e perenced on my approachng these par-
tes of foregn soders, whose presence had made a
desert of our capta. Gdng by the opposte
sde of the street, I passed them wthout ftng my
eyes from the ground. 0nce I ooked straght n
the face of an nferor offcer a ser|eant I beeve,
wearng the cross of the Legon a honneur who,
takng t as an nsut, oaded me wth curses, ac-
companed wth threats and the most abusve an-
guage. The Puerta de o, that favourte ounge
of the Madrd peope, was now the bvouac of a
rench dvson of nfantry and cavary, wth two
twevc-pounders facng every eadng street. ot
a shop was open, and not a voce heard but such as
grated the ear wth a foregn accent.
0n my return home, a feeng of deep mean-
choy had sezed upon me, to whch the troubes of
my past fe were ghter than a feather n the scae
of happness and msery. I confned mysef to the
house for severa days, a prey to the most harassng
an ety. What course to take n the present crss,
2 b 2
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372
L TT P P0M P I .
was a queston for whch I was not prepared, and
n whch no fact, no con|ecture coud ead me. My
frend, the frend for whose sake aone I had chang-
ed my resdence, had a morta averson to eve
that town where he coud not avod actng n a de-
tested capacty. ome wd vsons of freedom
from hs regous fetters, had been payng across
hs troubed mnd, whe the rench approached
Madrd and though he now ooked on ther con-
duct wth the most decded abhorrence, st he
coud hardy persuade hmsef to escape from the
rench bayonets, whch he seemed to dread ess
than pansh bgotry.
But my mnd has dwet too ong on a panfu
sub|ect, and I hope you w e cuse me f I put off
the concuson t another Letter.
That of a Cathoc Cergyman.
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L TT P P0M P I .
373
L TT P III.
eve, |uy 30, 1808.
Whether Murat began to suspect that hs crue
method of ntmdatng the capta woud rouse the
provnces nto open resstance, or whether (wth
the unsteadness of purpose whch often attends a
narrow mnd, actng more from mpuse than |udg-
ment,) he wshed to efface the mpressons whch
hs nsoent cruety had eft upon the panards he
soon turned hs attenton to the restoraton of conf-
dence. The foy, however, of such an endeavour,
whe (ndependent of the aarm and ndgnaton
whch spread ke wdfre over the country,) every
gate of Madrd was kept by a strong guard of rench
nfantry, must have been evdent to any one but
the thoughtess man who drected t. The peope, t
s true, ventured agan freey out of the houses:
but the pubc waks were deserted, and the thea-
tres eft amost entrey to the nvaders.
et t was vsbe that the rench had a party,
whch, though feebe n numbers, contaned some
of the abest, and not a few of the most respectabe
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374
L TT P P0M P I .
men at Madrd. ay, I frmy beeve, that had
not the panards of the mdde and hgher casses
been from tme mmemora brought up n the
strctest habts of reserve on pubc measures, and
wthout a suffcent bodness to form and e press
ther opnons the new rench Dynasty woud have
obtaned a consderabe ma|orty among our gentry.
In the frst pace, two-thrds of the above descrp-
ton hod stuatons under Government, whch they
woud have hoped to preserve by adherence to the
new ruers. e t, we shoud consder the mpres-
son whch the ast twenty years had eft on the thnk-
ng part of the communty. Under the most pro-
fgate and despcabe Court n urope, a sense of
potca degradaton had been produced among
such of the panards as were not bnded by a
natonaty of mere nstnct. The true source of the
enthusasm whch appeared on the accesson of
erdnand, was |oy at the remova of hs father for
hopes of a better government, under a young Prnce
of the common stamp, seated on an arbtrary throne,
musthave been wd and vsonary ndeed. s for the
state of dependance on rance, whch woud foow
the acknowedgement of |oseph Bonaparte, t coud
not be more ab|ect or hepess than under erd-
nand, had hs wshes of a famy aance been
granted by apoeon. It cannot be dened that
ndgnaton at the treatment we have e perenced
strongy urged the naton to revenge but passon
s a bnd gude, whch thnkng men w sedom

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U TT P P0M P I .
375
trust on potca measures. To decare war aganst
an army of veterans aready n the heart of pan,
mght be, ndeed, an act of subme patrotsm but
was t not, too, a provocaton more key to brng
run and permanent savery on the country, than
the admsson of a new ng, who, though a
foregner, had not been educated a despot, and who,
for want of any consttutona cams, woud be an-
ous to ground hs rghts on the acknowedgment
of the naton
nswers nnumerabe mght be gven to these
arguments and that I was far from aowng them
great weght on my mnd I can ceary prove, by
my presence n the capta of ndausa. But I
cannot endure that bnd, headong, unhestatng
patrotsm whch I fnd unformy dspayed n ths
town and provnce a oud popuar cry whch every
ndvdua s afrad not to swe wth hs whoe
mght, and whch, though t may e press the fee-
ng of a great ma|orty, does not deserve the name
of pubc opnon, any more than the unanmous ac-
camatons at an uto da e. Dssent s the great
characterstc of berty. I am, ndeed, as wng
as any man to gve my feebe ad to the pansh
cause aganst rance but I fee ndgnant at the
compuson whch deprves my vews of a ndv-
duaty whch, from the natona habts of mpct
submsson to whatever happens to be estabshed,
forces every man nto the crowd, so that nothng
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37
L TT P P0M P I .
can save hm but runnng for hs fe wth the fore-
most.
I repeat, that I need not an apoogy for my po-
tca conduct on ths momentous accason. eengs
whch w, ndeed, bear e amnaton, but on whch
I ground no mert, have brought me to the more ho-
nourabe sde of the queston. et I must pead for
candour and humanty n favour of such as, from the
nfuence of the vews I have touched upon, and n
some cases, wth a more uprght ntenton than many
an outrageous patrot, have opposed the begnnng of
hosttes. The name of trator, wth whch they
have been ndscrmnatey branded, must cut them
off rrevocaby from our party and even the fear
of beng too ate to avod suspcon among us, may
obge those whom chance or the watchfuness of
the Madrd Government, has htherto prevented
from |onng us, to make at ast, common nterest
wth the rench.
To escape from Madrd, after the news of the n-
surrecton of ndausa had reached that capta,
was, n fact, an undertakng of consderabe dff-
cuty, and, as I have found by e perence, attended
wth no sma danger. Dupont s army had occu-
ped the usua road through La Mancha, and no
carrages were aowed by the rench to set off for
the refractory provnces. My decson, however,
to |on my countrymen, had been formed as soon as
they took up arms aganst the rench and though
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L TT P P0M P I .
377
my frend shuddered at the dea of castng hs ot
wth the defenders of the Pope and the Inquston,
he soon forgot a persona nterest, n a queston
between a foregn army and hs own natura
frends.
There were no means of reachng ndausa but
through the provnce of stremadura, and no other
conveyance, at that tme, than two ragonese wag-
gons, whch havng stopped at a sma nn, or venta,
three mes from Madrd, were not under the m-
medate contro of the rench poce. The atten-
ton of the new Government was, besdes, too much
dvded by the ncreasng dffcutes of ther stua-
ton, to e tend tsef beyond the gates of the town.
We had ony to make our way through the rench
guard, and wak to the venta on the day apponted
by the waggoners. But f a snge person met wth
no mpedment at the gates, uggage of any des-
crpton was sure to be ntercepted and we had to
take our choce between stayng, or traveng a
fortnght, wthout more than a shrt n our pocket.
Thus ghty accoutred, however, we eft Madrd
at three n the afternoon of the 15th of |une, and
waked under a burnng sun to meet our waggons.
ummer s, of a seasons, n pan, the most ncon-
venent for traveers and nothng but necessty
w nduce the natves to cross the burnng pans,
whch abound n the country. To avod the
ferceness of the sun, the coaches start between
three and four n the mornng, stop from nne t
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378 L TT P P0M P I .
four n the afternoon, and compete the day s |our-
ney between nne and ten n the evenng. We,
aas coud not e pect that ndugence. ach of
us confned wth our respectve waggoner, wthn
the sma space whch the oad had eft near the
awnng, had to endure the ntoerabe coseness of
the waggon, under the dead stness of a burnng
atmosphere, so mpregnated wth foatng dust, as
often to produce a feeng of suffocaton. 0ur
stages requred not ony eary rsng, but traveng
t noon. fter a dsgustng dnner at the most
mserabe nns of the unfrequented road we were
foowng, our task began agan, t nght, when
we coud rarey e pect the en|oyment even of such
a bed as the pansh ventas afford. 0ur stock of
nen aowed us but one change, and we coud not
stop to have t washed. The consequences mght
: be easy foreseen. The heat, and the company of
our waggoners, who often passed the nght by our
sde, soon competed our wretchedness, by gvng
us a sampe of one, perhaps the worst, of the gyp-
tan pagues whch, as we had not yet got through
one-haf of our |ourney, hed out a sad prospect of
ncrease t our arrva at eve.
There was somethng so cheerng n the consc-
ousness of the sacrfce both of ease and prvate
vews we were makng, n the dea of reevng our
frends from the an ety n whch the fear of our
|onng the rench party must have kept them n
the hopes of beng receved wth open arms by
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L TT P P0M P I . 37
those wth whom we had made common nterest at
a tme when every chance seemed to be aganst
them that our state of utter dscomfort coud not
at frst make any mpresson on our sprts. The
sp of ew Caste, whch es between Madrd
and the fronters of stremadura, presented nothng
that coud n the east dsturb these agreeabe m-
pressons and the recepton we met wth from the
nhabtants was n every respect as frendy as we
had e pected. n nstance of smpe unaffected
kndness shewn to us by a poor woman near Mos-
toes, woud hardy deserve beng mentoned, but
for the panfu contrast by whch the rest of our
|ourney has endeared t to my memory. 0ppressed
by the heat and coseness of our stuaton, and pre-
ferrng a drect e posure to the rays of the sun n
the open ar, we had eft our heavy vehces at some
dstance, when the desre of en|oyng a more re-
freshng draught than coud be obtaned from the
heated |ars whch hung by the sde of our waggons,
nduced us to approach a cottage, at a short ds-
tance from the road. poor woman sat aone
near the door, and though there was nothng n our
dress that coud gve us even the appearance of gen-
temen, she answered our request for a gass of wa-
ter, by eagery pressng us to st and rest ourseves.
Water, she sad, n the state I see you n, s
sure, Gentemen, to do you harm. I fortunatey
have some mk n the cottage, and must beg you to
accept t. ou, dear rs, she added, are, I
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380
L TT P P0M P I .
know, makng your escape from the rench at Ma-
drd. God bess you, and prosper your |ourney
Her sympathy was so truy affectng, that t ac-
tuay brought tears no our eyes. To decne the
offer of the mk, as we as to speak of payment,
woud have been an affront to the knd-hearted fe-
mae and gvng her back the bessng she had so
corday bestowed upon us, was a we coud do to
shew our grattude.
Cheered up by ths humbe, yet hearty wecome
among our countrymen, we proceeded for two or
three days our feengs of securty ncreasng a
the whe wth the dstance from Madrd. It was,
however, |ust n that proporton that we were ap-
proachng danger. We had, about nne n the
mornng, reached the Cazada de 0ropesa, on the
borders of stremadura, when we observed, wth
panfu surprse, a crowd of country peope, who,
coectng hasty round us, began to nqure who we
were, accompanyng ther questons wth the ferce
and rude tone whch forebodes mschef, among
the testy nhabtants of our southern provnces.
The cade soon presented hmsef, and, havng
heard the account we gave of ourseves and our
|ourney, wsey decared to the peope that, our
anguage beng genune pansh, we mght be a-
owed to proceed. He added, however, a word of
advce, desrng us to be prepared to meet wth
peope more nqustve and suspcous than those of
0ropesa, who woud make us pay dear for any faw
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L TT P P0M P I .
381
they mght dscover n our narratve, s f to try
our veracty by means of ntmdaton, he acquant-
ed us wth the nsurrectons whch had taken pace
n every town and vage, and the vctms whch
had scarcey faed n any nstance, to fa under the
knves of the peasantry.
The truth and accuracy of ths warnng became
more and more evdent as we advanced through
stremadura. The notce we attracted at the ap-
proach of every vage, the threats of the abourers
whom we met near the road, and the accounts we
heard at every nn, fuy convnced us that we
coud not reach our |ourney s end wthout consder-
abe danger. The unfortunate propensty to shed
bood, whch tarnshes many a nobe quaty n the
southern panards, had been nduged n most
towns of any note, under the coak of patrotsm.
renchmen, of course, though ong estabshed n
pan, were ponted ob|ects of the popuar fury
but most of the murders whch we heard of, were
commtted on panards who, probaby, owed ther
fate to prvate pque and revenge, and not to pot-
ca opnons. Wc found the cades and Correg-
dores, to whom we apped for protecton, perfecty
ntmdated, and fearng the consequences of any at-
tempt to check the bnd fury of the peope under
them. But no descrpton of mne can gve so cear
a vew of the state of the country, as the smpe
narratve of the popuar rsng at maraz, the tte
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382
L TT P P0M P I .
town whch gves ts name to a we-known brdge
on the Tagus, as t was devered to us by the
cade, a rch farmer of that pace. The peope of
hs dstrct, upon hearng the accounts from Ma-
drd, and the nsurrectons of the chef towns of
ther provnce, focked, on a certan day, before the
cade s house, armed wth whatever weapons they
had been abe to coect, ncudng sckes, pck-
a es, and smar mpements of husbandry. Most
happy for the worthy magstrate, the nsurgents
had no compant aganst hm : and on the ap-
proach of the rustc mob, he confdenty came out
to meet them. Havng wth no sma dffcuty ob-
taned a hearng, the cade desred to be nformed
of ther desgns and wshes. The answer appears
to me unparaeed n the hstory of mobs. We
wsh, r, to k somebody, sad the spokesman of
the nsurgents. ome one has been ked at
Tru o one or two others at Bada|oz, another at
Merda, and we w not be behnd our neghbours.
r, we w k a trator. s ths commodty
coud not be procured n the vage, t was fortu-
nate for us that we dd not make our appearance at
a tme when the good peope of maraz mght
have made us a substtute, on whom to dspay ther
oyaty. The fact, however, of ther havng no an-
mostes to nduge under the mask of patrotsm, s
a credtabe crcumstance n ther character.
meetng whch we had, soon after eavng the v-
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L TT P P0M P I .
383
age, wth an armed party of these patrots, con-
frmed our opnon that they were among the east
savage of ther provnce.
The brdge of maraz stands at the dstance of
between three and four mes from the vage. It
was but n the tme of Chares the ffth, by the
town of Pasenca but t woud not have dsgraced
an ancent Poman archtect. The Tagus, carryng,
even at ths season, a prodgous quantty of water,
passes under the greater of the two arches, whch
support the brdge. Though the heght and span
of these arches gve to the whoe an ar of bodness
whch borders upon grandeur, the want of symme-
try n ther sze and shape, and the narrow, though
very deep, channe to whch the rocky banks con-
fne the rver, abate consderaby the effect t mght
have been made to produce. et there s somethng
mpressve n a bod work of art standng snge n
a wd tract of country, where nether great towns,
nor a numerous and we dstrbuted popuaton,
wth a the attendng marks of ndustry, u ury,
and refnement, have prepared the magnaton to
e pect t. s soon, therefore, as the brdge was
seen at a dstance, we eft the waggons, and aow-
ng them to proceed before us, ngered to en|oy
the vew.
|ust as we stood admrng the sodty and mag-
ntude of the structure, castng by chance our eyes
towards the mountan whch rses on the opposte
sde, and confnes the road to a narrow space on the
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384
L TT P P0M P I .
precptous bank of the rver, we saw a band of from
ffteen to twenty men, armed wth guns, eavng the
wood where they had been conceaed, and comng
down towards the waggons. The character of the
pace, combned wth the dresses, arms, and move-
ments of the men, convnced us at once that we had
faen nto the hands of bandtt. But as they coud
take very tte from us, we thought we shoud meet
wth mder treatment f we approached them wth-
out any sgns of fear. 0n our comng up to the
pace, we observed some of the party searchng the
waggons but seeng the rest takng quety wth
the carrers, our suspcons of robbery were at an
end. The whoe band, we found, conssted of pea-
sants, who, upon an absurd report that the rench
ntended to send arms and ammunton to the fron-
ters of Portuga, had been statoned on that spot to
e amne every cart and waggon, and stop a sus-
pcous persons. Had these peope been ess good-
natured and cv, we coud not have escaped beng
sent, n that dangerous character, to some of the
|untas whch had been estabshed n pan. But
beng tod by my frend that he was a cergyman,
and hearng us curse the rench n a true patrotc
stye they wshed us a happy |ourney, and aowed
us to proceed unmoested.
We e pected to arrve at Merda on a aturday
evenng, and to have eft t eary on unday after
the frst mass, whch, for the beneft of traveers
and abourers, s performed before dawn. But the
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L TT P P0M P I . 385
a etree of one of our waggons breakng down, we
were obged to seep that nght at a enta, and to
spend the ne t day n the above-mentoned cty.
The remarkabe runs whch st shew the ancent
spendour of the Poman merta ugusta woud,
n more tranqu tmes, have afforded us a peasant
wak round the town, and more than repad us for
the deay. atgue, however, nduced us to confne
ourseves to the nn, where we e pected, by the re-
pose of one day, to recrut our strength for the
rest of our |ourney. Havng taken a uncheon, we
retred to our beds for a ong sesta, when the nose
of a mob rushng down the street and gatherng n
front of the nn, drew us, neary undressed, to the
wndow. s far as the eye coud reach, nothng
was to be seen but a compact crowd of peasants,
most of them wth casp knves n ther hands.
t the sght of us, such as were near began to
brandsh ther weapons, threatenng they woud
make mnce-meat of every renchman n the nn.
Unabe to comprehend the cause of ths tumut,
and fearng the consequences of the bnd fury
whch prevaed n the country, we hurred on our
cothes, and ran down to the front ha of the nn.
There we found tweve dragoons standng n two
nes on the nsde of the gate, hodng ther car-
bnes ready to fre, as the offcer who commanded
them warned the peope that were bockadng the
gate they shoud do upon the frst who ventured
nto the house. The nnkeeper waked up and
2 c
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38
L TT P P0M P I .
down the empty ha, bewang the fate of hs
house, whch he assured us woud soon be set on
fre by the mob. We now gathered from hm
the cause of ths turmo and confuson. young
renchman had been taken on the road to Portuga,
wth etters to |unot, and on ths ground was for-
warded under an escort of soders to the Captan-
genera of the Provnce at Bada|oz. The crowd n
the street conssted of about two thousand peasants,
who havng vounteered ther servces, were under
tranng at the e pense of the cty. The poor
prsoner had been mprudenty brought nto the
town when the recruts were n the prncpa
square ndugng n the deness of a unday. 0n
hearng that he was a renchman, they drew ther
knves and woud have cut hm to peces, but for
the haste whch the soders made wth hm towards
the nn.
The crowd, by ths tme, was so ferce and voc-
ferous, that we coud not doubt they woud break
n wthout deay. My companon, beng fuy
aware of our dangerous poston, urged me to foow
hm to the gate, n order to obtan a hearng, whe
the peope st hestated to make ther way be-
tween the two nes of soders. We approached the
mpenetrabe mass but before comng wthn the
reach of the knves, my frend caed oudy to the
foremost to abstan from dong us any n|ury for
though wthout any marks of hs professon about
hm, he was a prest, who, wth a brother, (pont-
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L TT P P0M P I .
387
ng to me,) had made hs escape from Madrd to
|on hs countrymen. I very beeve, that as fear
s sad sometmes to end wngs, t dd on ths oc-
cason prompt my dear frend wth words for a
more fuent and anmated speech than hs has
sedom been devered n pansh. The effects of
ths unusua eoquence were soon vsbe among
those of the roters that stood nearest and one of
the rngeaders assured the orator, that no harm
was meant aganst us. 0n our requestng to eave
the house, we were aowed to proceed nto the
great square.
My frend there nqured the name of the B-
shop s substtute, or car Genera and, wth an
agreeabe surprse, we earnt that t was enor a-
enzuea. We nstanty recognsed one of our fe-
ow students at the Unversty of eve. He had
been eected a Member of the Pevoutonary |unta
- of Merda, and though not more confdent of hs
nfuence over the popuace than the rest of hs co-
eagues, whom the present mob had reduced to a
state of vsbe consternaton, he nstanty offered
us hs house as an asyum for the nght, and engag-
ed to obtan for us a passport for the remander of
the |ourney. In the mean tme, the mtary com-
mander of the pace, attended by some of the ma-
gstrates, had promsed the crowd to throw the
young renchman nto a dungeon, as he had done
a few nghts before wth hs own ad|utant, aganst
whom these very same recruts had rsen on the
2 c 2
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388 L TT P P0M P I .
parade, wth so murderous a sprt, that though
protected by a few reguars, they wounded hm se-
verey, and woud have taken hs fe but for the n-
terference of the car, who, bearng the conse-
crated host n hs hands, paced the offcer under
the protecton of that powerfu charm. The rench-
man was, accordngy, conducted to prson but
nether the soders nor the magstrates, who sur-
rounded hm, coud fuy protect hm from the
savage ferceness of the peasants, who crowdng
upon hm, as haf dead wth terror, he was sowy
dragged to the town goa, stuck the ponts of ther
knves nto severa parts of hs body. Whether he
fnay was sacrfced to the popuar fury, or, by
some happy chance, escaped wth fe, I have not
been abe to earn.
Though not far from our |ourney s end, we were
by no means reeved from our fears and msgvngs.
0ften were we surrounded by bands of reapers,
who, armed wth ther sckes, made us go through
the ordea of a mnute nterrogatory. But what
cast the thckest goom on our mnds was, the de-
taed account we receved from an cade, of the
events whch had taken pace at eve. revou-
ton, however audabe ts ob|ect, s sedom wthout
some features whch nothng but dstance of tme
or pace, can soften nto toerabe reguarty. We
were too we acquanted wth the neffcency of
most of the men who had suddeny been rased
nto power, not to fee a strong reuctance to pace
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L TT P P0M r I . 38
ourseves under ther government and protecton.
The ony man of taents n the |unta of eve was
aavedra, the e -mnster. Du gnorance, m ed
wth -a sma porton of nactve honesty, was the
genera character of that body. But a man of
bood had found a pace n t, and we coud not but
fear the repetton of the horrd scene wth whch
he opened the revouton that was to gve hm a
share n the supreme government of the provnce.
The Count Ty, a tted ndausan genteman,
of some taents, unbounded ambton, and no prn-
cpe, had, on the frst appearance of a genera ds-
poston to resst the rench, empoyed hmsef n
the organzaton of the ntended revot. Hs prn-
cpa agents were men of ow rank, hghy endowed
wth the characterstc shrewdness, quckness, and
oquacty of that cass of ndausans, and thereby
admraby ftted to appear at the head of the popu-
ace. Ty, however, ether from the ma m that
a successfu revouton must be cemented wth
bood a noton whch the rench |acobns have
too wdey spread among us or, what s more pro-
babe, from prvate motves of revenge, had made
the death of the Count de gua an essenta part
of hs pan. 11
That unfortunate man was a member of the town
corporaton of eve, and as such he |oned the
estabshed authortes n ther endeavours to stop
re Letter .
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3 0
L TT P P0M P IH.
the popuar ferment. But no sooner had the nsur-
recton burst out, than both he and hs coeagues
made the most absoute surrender of themseves and
ther power nto the hands of the peope. Ths,
however, was not enough to save the vctm whom
Ty had doomed to fa. 0ne of the nferor
eaders of the popuace, one. Luque, an usher at a
grammar-schoo, had engaged to procure the death
of the Count de gua. sssted by hs armed
assocates, he dragged the unhappy man to the pr-
son-room for nobemen, or Hdagos, whch stands
over one of the gates of the town and, deaf to hs
ntreates, the ve assassn had hm shot on the
spot. The corpse, bound to the arm char, n whch
the Count e pred, was e posed for that and the
ne t day to the pubc. The ruffan who performed
the atrocous deed, was nstanty rased to the rank
of eutenant n the army. Ty hmsef s one of
the |unta and so sefsh and narrow are the vews
whch preva n that body, that, f the concentra-
ton of the now ds|onted power of the provnces
shoud happen, the members, t s sad, w rd
themseves of hs presence, by sendng a man they
fear and detest, to take a share n the supreme
authorty of the kngdom.
The effects of the revoutonary success on a
peope at arge, ke those of sght nto caton on
Ths was actuay the case at the creaton of the Centra
|unta.
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L TT P P0M P I .
3 1
the ndvdua, ca forth every good and bad quaty
n a state of e aggeraton. To an acute but ndf-
ferent observer, eve, as we found t on our return,
woud have been a most nterestng study. He
coud not but admre the patrotc energy of the
nhabtants, ther unbounded devoton to the cause
of ther country, and the wonderfu effort by whch,
n spte of ther passve habts of submsson, they
had ventured to dare both the authorty of ther
ruers, and the approachng bayonets of the rench.
He must, however, have ooked wth pty on the
mutped nstances of gnorance and superstton
whch the e traordnary crcumstances of the coun-
try had produced.
To my frend and companon, whose ant-cathoc
pre|udces are the man source of hs menta suffer-
ngs, the regous character whch the revouton
has assumed, s ke a dense mst conceang or ds-
fgurng every ob|ect whch otherwse woud gratfy
hs mnd. He can see no prospect of berty be-
hnd the coud of prests who every where stand
foremost to take the ead of our patrots. It s n
van to remnd hm that many among those prests,
whose professona creed he detests, are far from
beng sncere that f, by the powerfu assstance
of ngand, we succeed n drvng the rench out
of the country, the mora and potca state of the
naton must beneft by the e erton. The absence
of the ng, aso, s a far openng for the restora-
ton of our ancent bertes and the actua e st-
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3 2 L TT P P0M P I .
ence of popuar |untas, must eventuay ead to the
re-estabshment of the Cortes. To ths he answers
that he cannot ook for any drect advantage from
the feeng whch prompts the present resstance to
the ambton of apoeon, as t chefy arses from an
nveterate attachment to the regous system whence
our present degradaton takes source. That f the
course of events shoud enabe those who have
secrety cast off the yoke of superstton, to attempt
a potca reform, t w be by graftng the feebe
shoots of Lberty upon the stock of Cathocsm an
e perment whch has htherto, and must ever prove
abortve. That from the parta and mperfect
knowedge of potcs and government whch the
state of the naton permts, no ess than from the
feengs produced by the monstrous abuse of power
under whch pan has groaned for ages, too much
w be attempted aganst the crown whch, thus
weakened n a naton whose habts, forms, and
manners, are mouded and shaped to despotsm,
w eave t for a tme a prey ether to an actve
or an ndoent anarchy, and fnay resume ts
ancent nfuence.
Parta as I must own mysef to every thng
that fas from my frend, I w not deny that
these vews are too genera, and that, though the
prncpes on whch he grounds them are sound,
the nferences are drawn much too ndependenty of
future events and crcumstances. et the dm
cooured medum through whch he sees the state
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L TT P P0M P I .
3 3
of a country, whence he derves a constant feeng of
unhappness, w make hm, I fear, but tte ft to
assst wth hs taents the work of pansh reform,
so ong, at east, as he sha fee the ron yoke whch
pan has ad on hs neck. I have, therefore,
formed a pan for hs remova to ngand, whenever
the progress of the rench arms, whch our present
advantages cannot permanenty check, sha enabe
hm to take hs departure, so as to shew that f hs
own country oppresses hm, he w not seek reef
among her enemes.
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PP DI to L TT P III. and II
CC0U T
0 TH
UPPP I0 0 TH | UIT I P I .
tracted from a Letter of Lord .
The suppresson of the |esuts n pan aways ap-
peared to me a very e traordnary occurrence and
the more I heard of the character of Chares III. by
whose edct they were e peed, the more snguar the
event appeared. Don Gaspar Mechor de |oveanos,
who had been acquanted wth a, and ntmate wth
many, of those who accompshed ths ob|ect, reated se-
vera curous crcumstances attendng t gave me a very
nterestng and dvertng account of the characters con-
cerned, and sent me, n 180 , two or three etters, whch
are st n my possesson, contanng some of the secret
The account n Letter II. of the an ety manfested by Chares
III. on the occason of sendng to Pome a manuscrpt n the hand of
a pansh smpeton, whom the superstton of that country wshed
to nvest wth the honours of antshp, was comped from oca tra-
dton, and the recoectons preserved from a former perusa of the
present ppend . Its nobe author, whose ove of the terature of
pan, and great acquantance wth that country, woud be enough to
desgnate hm, were he not best known by a pecuar benevoence of
heart, whch no man ever e pressed so fathfuy n the affabty of
hs manners has subsequenty favoured the wrter of the precedng
Letters wth hs permsson to pubsh ths sketch. The attentve
reader w observe some sght varatons between my story of Bro-
ther ebastan and that gven n ths ppend . But as they a re-
ate to crcumstances connected wth the cty of eve, I am un-
wng to omt or to ater what I have heard from my townsmen and
the contemporares of ebastan hmsef-
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UPPP I0 0f TH
hstory of ths very remarkabe transacton. I send you
the substance of hs conversaton, wth some addtona
anecdotes reated to me by other panards. They may
throw ght on the accdents and combnatons whch ed
to the suppresson of that formdabe body of men.
Chares III. came to the throne of pan wth dspos-
tons very unfavourabe to the |esuts. ot ony the ds-
putes wth the Court of Pome, to whch the government
of apes was at a tmes e posed, but the persona
affronts whch he conceved hmsef to have receved from
ather Pavago, the |esut, Confessor to hs brother er-
dnand, estranged hm from that formdabe company.
The |eaousy entertaned by Barbara, ueen of pan, of
any nfuence whch the Court of apes mght obtan n
the councs of her husband, and the opposte system of
potcs adopted by the two Courts, bad convnced the
|esuts of the mpossbty of beng we wth both. ot
foreseeng the premature death of erdnand, and the
sterty of hs wfe, they had very naturay e erted a
ther arts to ngratate themseves wth the powerfu
crown of pan, rather than wth the ess mportant
Court of apes. They were accordngy satsfed wth
pacng Padre Pavago about erdnand, and, ether
from pocy or negect, aowed Chares to seect hs
Confessor from another order of reguar cergy. ueen
Barbara was a patroness of the |esuts and, very pos-
sby, her favourte, the eunuch arne, e erted hs
nfuence n ther favour. The Marqus of nsenada,
ong the mnster of erdnand, was ther avowed protec-
tor, ay, and partzan and the ueen s ascendancy over
her husband s mnd was too frmy estabshed to be
shaken even by the remova of that mnster. But upon
the faure of that Prncess, and the subsequent death of
the ng hmsef, the |esuts e perenced a sudden and
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| UIT I P I .
3 7
fata reverse of fortune. The pocy of the Court of
Madrd was atered. Chares fet deep resentment
aganst ngand for the transactons n the Bay of
apes. The nfuence of the Court of ersaes was
graduay restored. It may be easy supposed that the
actve enemes of the |esuts n rance and Itay began
to turn ther eyes to the Court of Madrd wth more
hopes of co-operaton n that quarter than they had
htherto ever ventured to entertan. There s, however, .
no reason to magne that t the nomnaton of Poda, to
the pace of Mnster of Grace and |ustce, any actua
desgn was formed by persons n trust or power, of havng
recourse to such voent e pedents as were afterwards
resorted to for the e puson of the |esuts.
Don Manue de Poda, an ragonese by brth, and an
emnent awyer at Madrd, had mbbed very eary both
the theoogca and potca tenets of the |ansensts.
He had been dstngushed at the bar by hs resoute and
vruent opposton to the members of the Coegos
Mayores. That nsttuton, founded for the educaton
and assstance of poor students, had been perverted from
ts orgna ntentons: for though no one coud be admt-
ted but upon competton and a puraty of voces, t
conssted de facto entrey of persons of famy. Its
members, by the ad of e cusve prveges n the career
of the aw, by mutua assstance, and a corporaton sprt,
not unke that of the |esuts themseves, had obtaned a
arge porton of eccesastca and ega patronage, and
en|oyed amost a monopoy of the hghest |udcca offces
n Caste. The members of these coeges were enabed
to succeed to the offces of sca, 0ydor, and other
magstraces, wthout the prevous ceremony of passng
advocates, whch was a gradaton none but those who
were Coegaes coud dspense wth. These prveges
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3 8
UPPP I0 0 TH
gave them great nfuence, and the e pense whch at-
tended ther eectons, (especay that of the Pectors of
each Coege, an annua offce of great consderaton
among them,) served as an effectua har to the preten-
sons of any who had not brth and weath to recommend
them. It s |ust, however, to observe, that f they were
nfected wth the narrow sprt of corporatons, they
retaned to the ast the hgh sense of honour whch s
aways the boast, and sometmes the characterstc, of
prveged orders of men. It has ever been acknowedged
by ther enemes, that snce the aboton of ther e cu-
sve prveges, whch Poda ved to accompsh, and, yet
more, snce ther further dscouragement by the Prnce
of Peace, the |udca offces have not been fed by
persons of equa characrer for ntegrty, earnng, and
honour. But those who studed the aws wthout the
advantages of an educaton at the Coegos Mayores,
were naturay and |usty ndgnant at the prveges
whch they en|oyed. The bodness of Don Manue
de Poda s opposton to an order of men so nvdousy
dstngushed, ngratated hm wth the awyers, who, n
pan as esewhere, consttute a arge, actve, and formd-
abe body of men. But the same hgh sprt havng
nvoved hm n a dspute wth a man of rank and n-
fuence, hs frend and protector the Duke of va
thought t prudent for hm to wthdraw from Court and
wth a vew of enabng hm to do so wth credt to
hmsef, entrusted hm wth a pubc commsson to
Pome, where he was receved as the agent of the ng of
pan. He here, no doubt, acqured that knowedge
whch was so usefu to hm afterwards n the prose-
cuton of hs mportant desgn. By what fataty he
became mnster, I know not. Chares III. must have
departed from hs genera rue of appontng every
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| UIT I P I .
3
Mnster at the recommendaton of hs predecessor, for
Poda succeeded a Marqus of Campo ar, who had
been educated at the Coegos Mat/ores, and was attached
to the |esuts. Possby the nterest of the Duke of
va was the cause of hs promoton. He was apponted
Mnster of Grace and |ustce, I beeve, as eary as 17 3,
though |oveanos mpes that he was not Mnster t
17 5 or even 17 . rom the perod of hs nomnaton,
however, one may safey date the desgn of suppressng
the |esuts n pan. It was systematcay, though
sowy and secrety pursued, by a porton of the pansh
Cabnet. Indeed the vews, not ony of the mnstry,
but of the understandng of Poda, were so e cusvey
drected to such ob|ects, that zara sarcastcay ob-
served, that he wore spectaces, through one gass of
whch he coud perceve nothng but a Coega, and
through the other nothng but a |esut. If, however,
hs vews were contracted, he had the advantage often
attrbuted to a short sght a cear and more accurate
percepton of every thng that came wthn the mted
scope of hs organs. He had the dscernment to ds-
cover those, who, wth dspostons congena to hs own
had taents to assst hm. He had cunnng enough to
devse the means of convertng to hs purpose the weak-
nesses of such as wthout predsposton to co-operate
wth hm, were from staton or accdent necessary to hs
desgn. Though a strct |ansenst hmsef, he seected
hs assocates and partzans ndscrmnatey from |anse-
nst s and phosophers or freethnkers. mong the frst,
the most remarkabe was Tavra, bshop of aamanca
among the atter Campomanes and the Count de
randa.
Before we speak of the co-operaton of these powerfu
men, t s necessary to e pan the dffcutes whch oc-
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400
UPPP I0 0 TH
curred n securng the sancton and assstance of tbe ng
hmsef. Chares III., though no frend to the |esuts,
was st ess a frend, ether by habt or prncpe, to n-
novaton. He was not ess averse by consttuton to a
danger. Moreover, he was regous and conscentous
n the e treme. The acquescence and sancton of hs
Confessor was ndspensaby necessary to the adopton
of any measure affectng the nterests of the Church.
ether woud the bare consent of the Confessor (n t_
sef no easy matter to obtan) be suffcent. He must be
zeaous n tbe cause, and cautous as we as actve n the
promoton of t. Great secresy must be observed for
the scheme mght be defeated as effectuay by ndffer-
ence or ndscreton as by drect resstance or ntrgue.
There was tte n the character of the Confessor to en-
courage a man ess enterprsng or ess cunnng than
Poda.
r. |oaqun de ta, or ather 0sma, (so caed from
the pace of hs brth) was a frar of tte educaton and
ess abty, attached by habt to the order to whch he
beonged, and n other respects e empt from those pas-
sons of affecton or ambton, as we as from that ardour
of temper or force of opnon, whch ether e cte men to
great undertakngs or render them subservent to those
of others. Poda, however, from persona observaton,
and from an ntmate knowedge of those passons whch
a monastc fe generay engenders, dscovered the means
of engagng even ather 0sma n hs vews. one who
have not wtnessed t can conceve the effect of nsttu-
tons, of whch vows of perpetua cebacy form a neces-
sary part. Ther convent, ther order, the pace of ther
natvty, the vage or church to whch they beong,
often engage n the mnds of regous men the affectons
whch n the course of nature woud have been bestowed
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| UIT I P I .
401
on ther kndred, ther wves, or ther chdren. Padre
ta was born n the cty of whch the venerabe and
ustrous Paafo had been bshop. The sanctty of
that emnent preate s fe, the fervour of hs devoton, the
actve benevoence and Chrstan forttude of hs charac-
ter, had nsured hm the reputaton of a sant, and mght,
t was thought, by many Cathocs, entte hm to canon-
zaton. Hoda, however, we knew that the |esuts
There s a Lfe of Paafo , pubshed at Pars, n 17 7. The
desgn of the unknown author s evdenty to mortfy and pre|udce-
the |esuts by e atng the character of one of ther earest and
fercest opponents. The author s, however, ether an -ardent fanatc
of the |ansenst party, and as supersttous as those he wshes to e -
pose or he promotes the cause of the Phosophers of rance and
pan by affectng devoton, and concatng many true beevers to
the measure of suppressng the |esuts. Paafo was the egtmate
chd of Don |ayme de Paafo y Mendoza, by a ady of rank, who,
to concea her pregnancy, retred to the waters of tero n avarre,
and beng devered on the 24th |une, 1 00, to avod the scanda,
took the wcked resouton of drownng her chd n the neghbourng
rver The woman empoyed to perpetrate ths murder was detected
before she effected her purpose, the chd saved, and brought up by
an od dependant of the house of rza t he was ten years od, when
hs father returned from Pome, acknowedged, reeved, and educated
hm at caa and aamanca. Hs mother became a nun of the
barefooted Carmete order. Paafo was ntroduced at Court, and
to the Count Duke de 0vares n 1 2 , and was soon after named to
the counc of Inda. n ness of hs paterna sster, the funera of
two remarkabe men, and the pety of hs mother, made such mpres-
son upon hm, that he gave hmsef up to the most fervent devoton,
and soon after took orders. He became chapan to the ueen of
Hungary, Php I th s sster, and traveed through Itay, Germany,
anders, and rance. In 1 3 , he was consecrated Bshop of n-
geopos, or Pueba de os ngees, n merca. Hs frst quarre
wth the |esuts was on the sub|ect of tthes. Lands on whch
tthes were payabe had been aenated n favour of the Company,
and they pretended, that when once the property of ther body, they
2
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402
UPPP I0 0 TH
bore great enmty to hs memory on account of hs ds-
putes wth them n outh merca he foresaw that
every e erton of that powerfu body woud be made to
resst the ntroducton of hs name nto the Pubrc. He
therefore suggested very adroty to ather 0sma the
gory whch woud redound to hs natve town f ths ob-
|ect coud be accompshed. He panted n gowng co-
ours the grattude e woud nspre n pan, and the
admraton he woud e cte n the Cathoc word f
through hs means a panard of so ustrous a name
and of such acknowedged vrtue coud be actuay
santed at Pome. He had the satsfaston of fndng
that ather 0sma espoused the cause wth a fervour
hardy to be e pected from hs character. He not ony
advsed but nstgated and urged the ng to support
the pretensons of the bshop of 0sma wth a hs n-
fuence and authorty. But here an apparent dffcuty
arose, whch Pod a turned to advantage, and converted to
the nstrument of nvovng the Court of Madrd n an
were e empt from that ta . The second ground was a pretended
prvege of the |esuts to preach wthout the permsson of the
Docesan, aganst whch Paafo contended. The |esuts, havng
the ceroy of ew pan on ther sde, obged Paafo to fy on
whch occason he wrote hs ceebrated etters aganst hs enemes.
bref of the Pope n hs favour dd not prevent hs beng recaed
n cv terms, by the ng. t the petton of the |esuts, who
dreaded hs return to merca, the ng named hm to the bshoprc
of 0sma. 0f the austerty and e travagance of hs prncpes, the
foowng resoutons of the pou3 bshop are specmens : ot to
admt any woman to hs presence, and never to speak to one but
wth hs eyes on the ground, and the door open. ever to pay a
woman a compment, but when the not dong so woud appear sn-
guar or scandaous and never to ook a femae n the face. When
ever compeed to vst a woman, to wear a cross wth sharp ponts
ne t th skn.
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| UIT I P I . - 403
addtona dspute wth the Poman Pontff. Chares III.
was not unwng to support the pretensons of hs
Confessor s favourte ant but he had a |ob of hs
own n that branch to drve wth the Court of Pome,
and he accordngy socted n hs turn the co-opera-
ton of ather 0sma, to obtan the canonzaton of Bro-
ther ebastan.
The story of ths ast-mentoned obscure personage s
so curous, and ustrates so forcby the snguar cha-
racter of Chares, that t w not be foregn to my pur-
pose to reate t.
Durng Php the fth s resdence n eve, Her-
mano ebastan, a sort of ay-brother of the Convent of
an rancsco e Grande, was accustomed to vst the
prncpa houses of the pace wth an mage of the Infant
|esus, n quest of ams for hs order. The affected sanc-
tty of hs fe, the demure humty of hs manner, and
the tte sentences of moraty wth whch he was accus-
tomed to address the women and chdren whom he vsted,
acqured hm the reputaton of a sant n a sma crce of
smpe devotees. The good man began to thnk hmsef
nspred, to compose short works of devoton, and even
to venture occasonay on the character of a prophet.
ccdent or desgn brought hm to the paace : he was
ntroduced to the apartments of the prnces, and Chares
then a chd, took a prodgous fancy to Brother ebas-
tan of the no |esus, as he was generay caed n the
neghbourhood, from the mage he carred when soct-
ng ams for hs convent. To ngratate hmsef wth the
roya nfant, the od man made Chares a present of some
He was not a ay-brother, but a Donado, a speces of regous
drudges, who, wthout takng vows, wear the habt of the order
and may eave t when they pease. The Donados are never caed
ray, but Hermano. ee Dobado s Letter I .
2 d 2
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104
UPPP I0 0 TH
prayers wrtten n hs own hand, and tod hm, wth an
ar of sanctfed mystery, that he woud one day be ng-
of pan, n reward, no doubt, of hs eary ndcatons of
pety and resgnaton. The present deghted Chares,
and, young as he was, the words and sense of the pro-
phecy sunk deep n hs supersttous and retentve mnd.
Though he was sedom known to menton the crcum-
stance for years, yet he never parted wth the manuscrpt.
It was hs companon by day and by nght, at home aud
n the fed. When he was up, t was constanty n hs
pocket and t was paced under hs pow durng hs
hours of rest. But when, by hs accesson to the crown of
pan, ts author s predcton was fufed, the work ac-
qured new charms n hs eyes, hs confdence n Brother
ebastan s sanctty was confrmed, and hs memory was
chershed wth addtona fondness by the gratefu and
creduous monarch. t the same tme, therefore, that
the pretensons of the Bshop of 0sma to canonzaton
were urged at Pome, the pansh mnster was nstructed
to speak a good word for the humbe frar ebastan.
The vey and sarcastc zara was entrusted wth ths
negotaton and, as I know that he was at some pans to
preserve the documents of ths curous transacton, t s
not mpossbe that he may have eft memors of bs fe,
n whch the whoe correspondence w, no doubt, be de-
taed wth mnuteness and e quste humour.
The Court of Pome s ever ferte n e pedents, espe-
cay when the ob|ect s to start dffcutes and suggest
obstaces to any desgn. The nvestgaton of Paafo s
pretensons was studousy protracted and t was easy
to perceve that the nfuence of the |esuts n the acred
Coege was e erted to throw new mpedments n the
way of ther adversary s canonzaton. Though the
Court of Pome coud never serousy have thought of
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|f UIT I P I .
405
gvng Brother ebastan a pace n the Pubrc, they
amused Chares III. by very ong dscussons on hs
merts, and went through, wth scrupuous mnuteness,
a the prevous ceremones for ascertanng the conduct
of a sant. - ,
It s a ma m, that the orgna of every wrtng of a
person camng to be made a sant, must be e amned at
Pome by the acred Coege, and that no copy, however
attested, can be admtted as suffcent testmony, f the
orgna document s n e stence, The book, therefore,
to whch the pansh Monarch was so attached, was re-
qured at Pome. Here was an abundant source of nego-
taton and deay. Chares coud not brng hmsef to
part wth hs treasure, and the forms of canonzaton
precuded the Coege from proceedng wthout t. t
ength, the ng, from hs honest and dsnterested zea
for the frar, was prevaed upon. But zara was n-
structed to have the Coege summoned, and the Card-
nas ready, on the day and even the hour at whch t was
cacuated that the most e pedtous courer coud convey
the precous book from Madrd to Pome. Peays were
provded on the road, and Chares III. hmsef deposted
the precous manuscrpt n the hands of hs most trusty
messenger, wth ong and an ous n|unctons to preserve
t most regousy, and not to ose a moment n sayng
forth from Pome on hs return, when the nterestng con-
tents of the voume shoud have been perused.
The nterm was to Chares III. a phantasma, or a
hdeous dream. He never sept, and scarcey took any
nourshment durng the few days he was separated from
the beoved paper. Hs domestc economy, and the
reguaton of hs hours, whch nether pubc busness
nor prvate affcton n any other nstance dsturbed,
was atered and the chase, whch was not nterrupted
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40
0PPP I0 0 TH
even by the ness and death of hs chdren, was sus-
pended t Brother ebastan s orgna M . coud agan
accompany hm to the fed. He stood at the wndow of
bs paace countng the drops of ran on tbe gasses, and
sghng deepy. Busness, peasure, conversaton, and
meas, were suspended, t the ong-e pected treasure
returned, and restored the monarch to hs usua avoca-
tons.
When, however, hs Confessor dscovered that the
Court of Pome was trfng wth ther soctatons, that
to Paafo there was an nsurmountabe repugnance, and
when the ng began to suspect that the sacrfce he had
been compeed to make was a to no purpose, and that
the pans of separaton bad been nfcted upon hm wth-
out the sghtest dsposton to grant hm the ob|ect for
whch aone he had been ncned to endure t, both he
and hs Confessor grew angry. The opposton to ther
wshes was, perhaps, truy, and certany ndustrousy
traced to the |esuts.
n the mean whe a rot occurred at Madrd. In 17 ,
the peope rose aganst the reguaton of poce whch
attempted to suppress the coaks and arge hats, as
affordng too great opportuntes for the conceament
of assassns. These and other obno ous measures were
attrbuted to the Marqus of quace, who, n hs qua-
ty of favourte as we as foregner, was an unpopuar
mnster of fnance. Chares III. was compeed to
abandon hm and the Count of randa, dsgraced under
erdnand I. and atey apponted to the captan-
generashp of aenca, was named Presdent of the
counc of Caste, for the purpose of pacfyng by hs
popuarty, and suppressng by hs vgour, the remanng
dscontents of the peope. He entered nto a Poda s
vews. s an ragonese, he was an enemy of the Co-
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| UIT I P I .
407
egus Ma/ores, for they admtted few sub|ects of that
Crown to ther hghest dstnctons : and as a free-
thnker, and man of etters, he was an ous to suppress
the |esuts.
Peports, founded or unfounded, were crcuated n
the country, and countenanced by these powerfu men,
that the |esuts had nstgated the rots of Madrd. It
was confdenty asserted, that many had been seen n the
mob, though dsgused and ather Isdro Lopez, an
sturan, who was consdered as one of the eadng cha-
racters n the company, was e pressy named as havng
been actve n the streets. nsenada, the great protector
of the |esuts n the former regn, had been named by
the popuace as the proper successor of quace, and
there were certany ether grounds for suspectng, or
prete ts for attrbutng the dscontent of the metropos
to the machnatons of the |esuts and ther protector the
e -mnster nsenada. nqures were nsttuted. Many
wtnesses were e amned but great secresy was pre-
served. It s, however, to be presumed, that, under
coour of nvestgatng the causes of the ate rot, randa
and Poda contrved to coect every nformaton whch
coud nfame the mnd of the ng aganst those nsttu-
tons whch they were determned to subvert. They had
revved the controversy respectng the conduct of the
venerabe Paafo , and drawn the attenton both of
Chares III. and the pubc to the ceebrated etter of
that preate, n whch he descrbes the machnatons of
the |esuts n outh merca, and whch ther party had
but a few years snce sentenced to be pubcy burnt n
the great square of Madrd.
But, even wth the assstance of ather 0sma, the ac-
quescence of the ng, and the concert of many foregn
enemes of the Company, Poda and randa were n want
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408 UPPP I0 0 TH
of the addtona ad whch taents, assduty, earnng,
and character coud suppy, to carry nto e ecuton a
pro|ect vast n ts concepton, and e tremey compcated,
as we as decate n ts detas. They found t n the fa-
mous Campomanes. Perhaps the gratefu recoecton of
servces, and the natura good-nature of |oveanos, ed
hm to prase too hghy hs eary protector and precursor,
n the studes whch he hmsef brought to greater per-
fecton. But Campomanes was an enghtened man, and
a aborous as we as honest mnster. He was at that
tme sca of the Counc and Chanceor of Caste,
and consdered by the professon of the aw, as we as
by the great commerca and potca bodes throughout
pan, as an nfabe orace on a matters regardng the
nterna admnstraton of the kngdom. The Coeccon
de Provdencas tomadas por e goberno sobre e estrana-
mento y ocupacon de temporadades de os Peguates de
a Compaha (Coecton of measures taken by the Go-
vernment for the aenaton and sezure of the tempora-
tes of the Peguars of the company of |esuts) s sad to
be a monument of hs dgence, sagacty, and vgour.
roya decree was ssued on 27th ebruary, 17 7,
and dated from e Pardo, by whch a |unta, composed of
severa members of the Poya Counc, was nsttuted, n
consequence of the rot of Madrd of the precedng year.
To ths |unta severa bshops, seected from those who
were most attached to the doctrnes of ant Thomas
qunas, and, consequenty, east favourabe to the |e-
suts, (for they espouse the rva tenets,) were added for
the purpose of gvng weght and authorty to ther decree.
In ths |unta the day and form of the measure were re-
soved upon, and nstructons drawn out for the Ma-
gstrates who were to e ecute t both n pan and n
merca, together wth drectons for the nature of the
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| UIT I PM .
40
preparatons, the carrages to be provded at the varous
paces nand, and the vesses to be ready n the ports.
The precautons were we ad. The secret was wonder-
fuy kept and on the nght of the frst of pr, at md-
nght precsey, every Coege of the |esuts throughout
pan was surrounded by troops, and every member of
each coected n ther respectve chapters, prests or ay-
brothers, young or od, acquanted wth the decree, and
forcby conveyed out of the kngdom. Ther sufferngs
are we known and the forttude wth whch they bore
them must e tort prase even from those who are most
convnced of the mschefs whch ther ong nfuence n
the courts of urope produced. The e puson and
persecuton of the rench prests durng the Pevouton
was more boody, but scarcey ess nhuman, than the
hardshps nfcted by the reguar and egtmate mo-
narches whch had orgnay encouraged them, on the
|esuts. 0n the other hand, the suppresson of that so-
cety was favourabe to the cause of berty, moras, and
even earnng for though ther system of educaton
has been much e toed, t must be acknowedged that n
pan, at east, the perod at whch the educaton of
youth was chefy entrusted to |esuts, s that n whch
Castan terature decned, and genera gnorance pre-
vaed. If the state of educaton n a country s to be
|udged of by ts fruts, the |esuts n pan certany
retarded ts progress. In reaton to the rest of urope,
the panards were farther advanced n scence and earn-
ng durng the ffteenth and s teenth centures, than
durng the seventeenth and eghteenth and snce the
suppresson of the Company, n 17 7, and not t then,
a taste for terature and a sprt of mprovement revved
among them.
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0T .
0T .
0n the Devoton of the panards to the Immacuate
Concepton of the rgn Mary. p. 22.
-The hstory of the transactons reatve to the ds-
putes on the mmacuate concepton of the rgn Mary,
even when confned to those whch took pace at eve,
coud not he compressed wthn the mts of one of the
precedng etters. uch readers, besdes, as take tte
nterest n sub|ects of ths nature, woud probaby have
ob|ected to a detaed account of absurdtes, whch seem
at frst sght scarcey to deserve any notce. et there
are others to whom nothng s wthout nterest whch
depcts any pecuar state of the human mnd, and e -
hbts some of the nnumerabe modfcatons of socety.
0ut of deference, therefore, to the frst, we have detached
the foowng narratve from the te t of Dobado s Let-
ters, castng the nformaton we have coected from the
pansh wrters nto a note, the ength of whch w,
we hope, be e cused by those of the atter descrpton.
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412
0T .
The dspute on the Immacuate Concepton of the
rgn began between the Domncans and rancscans
as eary as the thrteeeth century. The contendng
partes stood at frst upon equa ground but the
merts of fath and devoton were so decdedy on the
sde of the rancscans, that they soon had the Chrstan
mob to support them, and t became dangerous for any
Dvne to assert that the Mother of God (such s the
estabshed anguage of the Church of Pome) had been,
ke the rest of manknd, nvoved n orgna sn. The
orace of the Capto aowed, however, the dspu-
tants to fght out ther battes, wthout shewng the
east partaty, t pubc opnon had taken a decded
turn.
In 1 13, a Domncan, n a sermon preached at the
cathedra of eve, threw out some doubts on the Im-
macuate Concepton. Ths was conceved to be an n-
sut not ony to the rgn Mary, but to the communty
at arge and the popuace was kept wth dffcuty from
takng summary vengeance on the offender and hs con-
vent. unga, the annast of eve, who pubshed hs
work n 1 77, deems t a matter of Chrstan forbearance
not to consgn the names of the preacher and hs convent
to the e ecraton of posterty. But f the cv and ec-
cesastca authortes e erted themseves for Ihe pro-
tecton of the offenders, they were aso the frst to
promote a seres of e patory rtes, whch mght avert the
anger of ther Patroness, and make ampe reparaton to
her nsuted honour. Processons nnumerabe paraded
the streets, procamng the orgna purty of the rgn
Mother and Mgue de Cd, a evan poet of that
day, was urged by the rchbshop to compose the
pansh hymn, Todo e Mundo en genera, whch,
though far beow medocrty, s st nghty sung at
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0T .
413
eve by the assocatons caed Posaros, whch have
been descrbed n Dobado s Letters.
The ne t step was to procure a decson of the Pope
n favour of the Immacuate Concepton. To promote ths
mportant ob|ect two commssoners were dspatched to
Pome, both of them dgnfed cergymen, who had de-
voted ther ves and fortunes to the cause of the rgn
Mary.
fter four years of ndescrbabe an ety the ong
wshed-for decree, whch doomed to sence the oppo-
nents of Mary s orgna nnocence, was known to be on
the pont of passng the sea of the sherman, and
the evans hed themseves n readness to e press
ther unbounded |oy the very moment of ts arrva n
ther town. Ths great event took pace on the 22d of
0ctober 1 17, at ten o cock P.M. The news, says
unga, produced a unversa str n the town. Men eft
ther houses to congratuate one another n the streets.
The fraternty of the azarenes |onng n a processon
of more than s hundred persons, wth ghted candes
n ther hands, saed forth from ther church, sngng
the hymn n honour of 0rgna Purty. umerous bon-
fres were ghted, the streets were umnated from the
wndows and terraces, and ngenous freworks were et
off n dfferent parts of the town. t mdnght the bes
of the cathedra broke out nto a genera chme, whch
was answered by every parsh church and convent and
many persons n masks and fancy dresses havng gathered
before the archbshop s paace, hs grace appeared at the
bacony, moved to tears by the devout |oy of hs fock.
t the frst pea of the bes a the churches were thrown
open, and the hymns and prases offered up n them ent
Letter I. p. 20.
f gum or annuus Pscators, the great sea of the Popes.
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414
0T .
to the stness of nght the most vey sounds of the
day.
day was subsequenty f ed when a the authortes
were to take a soemn oath n the Cathedra, to beeve
and assert the Immacuate Concepton. n endess seres
of processons foowed to thank Heaven for the ate
trumph aganst the unbeevers. In fact, the peope of
eve coud not move about, for some tme, wthout
formng a regous processon. ny boy, says a
contemporary hstoran, who, gong upon an errand,
chose to strke up the hymn Todo e Mmdo, were sure
to draw after hm a tran, whch from one grew up nto
a muttude for there was not a genteman, cergyman,
or frar, who dd not |on and foow the chorus whch he
thus happened to meet n the streets.
Besdes these regous ceremones, shows of a more
wordy character were e hbted. mong these was
the Moorsh equestran game, caed, n rabc, |eerd,
and n pansh, Canas, from the reeds whch, nstead of
|avens, the cavaers dart at each other, as they go
through a great varety of gracefu and compcated evo-
utons on horseback. estas eaes, or bu-fghts,
where gentemen enter the arena, were aso e hbted on
ths occason. To dversfy, however, the spectace, and
nduge the popuar taste, whch requres a speces of
comc nterude, caed Mogganga, a dwarf, whose dm-
Gentemen of the frst rank, who are members of the assocatons
caed Maestranzas, perform at these games on the ng s brth-day,
and other pubc festvas. Horsemanshp was formery n great est-
maton among the ndausan gentry, who |oned n a varety of
amusements connected wth that art. uch was the Pare|a de Hachas,
a game performed by nght, at whch the rders bore ghted torches.
When Php the ourth vsted eve, n 1 24, one hundred gente-
men, each attended by two grooms, a wth torches n ther hands,
ran races before the kng. Ths was the ony amusement whch, ac-
cordng to the estabshed notons, coud be permtted n Lent.
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0T .
415
Hutve mbs requred to have the strrups f ed on the
Hap of the sadde, mounted on a mk-whte horse, and
attended by four negroes of ggantc stature, dressed n a
spendd orenta costume, fought wth one of the bus,
and drove a fu span of hs ance nto the anma s body
a crcumstance whch was deemed too mportant to be
omtted by the hstorographers of eve.
The most curous and characterstc of the shows was,
however, an aegorca tournament, e hbted at the e -
pense of the company of sk-weavers, who, from the
monopoy wth the pansh Coones, had attaned great
weath and consequence at that perod. It s thus de-
scrbed, from the records of the tmes, by a modern pa-
nsh wrter.
ear the Puerta de Pardon (one of the gates of the
cathedra), a patform was erected, termnatng under the
atar dedcated to the rgn, whch stands over the
gate. Three spendd seats were paced at the foot of
the atar, and two avenues raed n on both sdes of the
patform to admt the |udges, the chaenger, the sup-
porters or seconds, the marsha, and the adventurers.
ear one of the corners of the stage was ptched the
chaenger s tent of back and brown sk, and n t a
seat covered wth back vevet. In front stood the fgure
of an appe-tree bearng frut, and hangng from ts
boughs a target, on whch the chaenge was e posed to
vew.
t fve n the afternoon, the Marsha, attended by
hs d|utant, presented hmsef n the sts. He was
foowed by four chdren, n the dress used to represent
The reader must be aware that ths was an mtaton of a foot
tournament, an amusement as frequent among the ancent pansh
knghts as the |ousts on horseback. It s caed n the pansh Chro.
nces Torneo de a pt.
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41
0T .
anges, wth ghted torches n ther hands. nother
chd, personatng Mchae the rchange, was the eader
of a second group of s anges, who were the bearers of
the przes a Lamb and a Mae Infant. The |udges,
|ustce and Mercy, appeared ast of a, and took ther
apponted seats.
The sound of drums, ffes, and carons, announced
soon after, the approach of another group, composed of
two savages of ggantc dmensons, wth arge cubs on
ther shouders, eght torch-bearers n back, and two
nferna ures, and, n the centre, the chaenger s shed-
bearer, foowed by the chaenger s supporter or second,
dressed n back and god, wth a pume of back and
yeow feathers. Ths band havng waked round the
stage, the second brought the chaenger out of the tent,
who, dressed unformy wth hs supporter, appeared
wedng a ance twenty-fve hands n ength.
The foowng s a st of the dventurers, ther attend-
ants, or torch-bearers, and supporters or seconds:
dam
Can
braham
ttendants Cowns
G Inferna ures
Dwarfs,f three
ngesnthe ha- r . .
bt of Pgrms, f, at1-
and Isaac |
|ob Pages Patence.
)aTd qures - Pepentance.
|eroboam 4 |ews Idoatry.
hab 12 qures Covetousness.
|ohn the Baptst 12 qures 5 Dvne Lore
and Grace.
Though the pansh wrter has forgotten to menton the aegory
of the chaenger, t a evdent, from the seque, that he was ntended
to represent n.
-f- Dwarfs were formery very common among the servants of the
pansh nobty. But t s not easy to guess for what reason they
were aotted to braham, on ths occason.
econds Hope and
Innocence.
nvy.
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0T .
The dresses (contnues the hstoran) were a spendd,
and suted to the characters.
The dventurers engaged the chaenger n succes-
son, and a were wounded by the frst stroke of hs
enormous ance. In ths state they drew ther swords,
and fought wth varous success, some conquerng the
common enemy, whe others yeded to hs superor force.
one, however, dstngushed hmsef so much srs the
Baptst, who, regardess of the wound he had rece ved at
the frst onset, and beng armed wth fresh Weapons by
Grace, beat the adversary n every succeedng rentdunteT.
Hs e traordnary success was rewarded wth a seat near
the |udges, and the Lamb was awarded hm as a prfce.
fter ths, the Marsha and hs d|utant, foowed
by Grace and Dvne Love, eft the stage. In a short
tme they re-appear,ed, foowed by tweve youths, as
torch-bearers the seven rtues personated by chdren
from four to fve years of age, and nne nges, as repre-
sentatves of the nne herarches. Twt) squres attended
ea-ch of the rtues and nges the wbdte tran beng
dosed by Grace and Dvne Love, supportng the ast
dventurer, a beautfu chd seven years od, who, as
ntended to represent the Hoy rgn, was more spren-
ddy dressed than the rest, n a sut 0f sky-bue and
whte, sprnked wth goden stars, the har fowng down
the shouders n curs, and hed round the head by a
tweve-starred dadem.
When the combatants faced each other, the chaenger
coud not concea hs trepdaton. The femae dven-
turer, on the other hand, woud rot use the ance wth
whch she had entered the sts for t ttore the words
Daughter of dam, n a banderoe whch hung frbta
The pansh 0sechsfn enumerates seven vcfcf M seven op-
poste vrtues.
2
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418
0T .
t. Havng thrown away that weapon, she receved
another from the seconds, wth the nscrpton Daughter
of the ather. t ths moment the chaenger darted
hs ance but n hs fear and confuson, he coud not
touch hs adversary, whe the herone, on the contrary,
takng an unerrng am at hs breast, brought hm n-
stanty upon hs knees and the vctory was competed
wth two other ances, bearng the mottoes Mother of
the on pouse of the Hoy Ghost. Unhurt by
her adversary, she had now ad hm on the ground, and
paced her foot and sword upon hs neck, amdst a shout
of unversa accamaton. The |udges awarded her the
Chd |ems, as a prze, and seated her above a n a
throne. e t under the rgn took ther seats Dvne
Love, Grace, Mchae, and |ohn the Baptst, and a
genera tournament ensued, n whch a the other com-
batants engaged. The tournament beng ended, the
chaenger and hs second retred through the eft avenue.
The rest of the actors conducted the vctor, through that
on the rght, attended by one hundred and forty torch-
bearers, and a band of muscans sngng her trumpha
hymn, whch was echoed by the mmense concourse.
Compendo Hstorco de eva por Don ermn rana
de arfvra (Padre aderrama) p. 77, et|seq.
0T B.
0n a Passage n enophon. p. 4 .
The passage from enophon transated n the te t s
ths: 0/ out d/ p tov I a parw mpa- tn / ev, aastp tttof w,
e7reuvouT f t|v nfftv, ov /Tno- vouvro o-vvbeTrvrrtv. s s cam
a fopevos panpf h, e /m tyono, ovmtt tMwcB. ympos.
c. 1. 7. rnest s angry at the t ntp u o , whch s soon
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41
after repeated, when speakng of the order n whch the
guests paced themseves at tabe. He wants, n the
ast passage, to change t nto tu ov. But though the
emendaton s pausbe, there seems to be no necessty
to ater the readng. enophon s, ndeed, remarkaby
fond of that phrase. The shot, u both paces, probaby
means accordng to custom. It mght be apped to the
order of precedence n ngand, and t shoud seem to
have been used by enophon to denote the Greek sense
of proprety n takng a pace at tabe. In pan, where
there s no estabshed order, a great dea of bowng and
scrapng takes pace before the guests can arrange that
mportant pont. But, wthout any setted rue, there s
a tact whch sedom mseads any one who wshes not to
gve offence. Ths s probaby the second ua-rtf bcof of
enophon.
0T C.
tte vork that gave an amusng Mrace of the
rgn for every Day n the ear. p. 70.
The book auded to n the te t s the no rgneo.
The mora tendency of ths and smar books may be
shewn by the foowng story techncay named an -
ampe whch I w venture to gve from memory :
pansh soder, who had fought n the etherands,
havng returned home wth some booty, was eadng a
profgate and desperate fe. He had, however, bed
for the ath : and hs own was perfecty orthodo .
arge od pcture of the rgn Mary hung over the nsde
of tbe door of hs odgngs, whch, t seems, dd not
correspond n oftness to the brave haberder s mnd
and demeanour. ary every mornng he used to say
forth n pursut of unawfu peasure but, though h
2 e 2
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420 0T .
never dd bend hs knees n prayer, he woud not cross
the threshod wthout a oud Ha Mary to the pcture,
accompaned by an ncnaton of the habert, whch
party from hs outrageous hurry to break out of the
nghty prson, party from want of room for hs mtary
saute, nfcted many a wound on the canvass. Thus
our soder went on spendng hs fe and money, t a
sharp pansh dagger composed hm to rest, n the heat
of a braw. He ded and made no sgn. The Dev,
who thought hm as far a prze as any that had ever been
wthn hs grasp, wated ony for the sentence whch,
accordng to Cathocs, s passed on every ndvdua
mmedatey after death, n what they ca the Partcuar
|udgment. t ths crtca moment the rgn Mary
presented hersef n a back mante, smar to that whch
she wore n the pcture, but sady rent and st n severa
paces. These are the marks, she sad to the affrght-
ed sou, of your rude, though certany we-meant
cvty. I w not, however, permt that one who has so
corday sauted me every day, shoud go nto everastng
fre. Thus sayng, she bade the ev sprt gve up hs
prsoner, and the gaant soder was sent to purge off the
dross of hs bosterous nature, n the genter fames of
purgatory. porton of the book from whch I reco-
ect ths story, was, for many years, read every evenng
n one of the prncpa parshes at eve. I observed
the same practce at a town not far from the capta of
ndausa and, fof any thng I know to the contrary, t
may be very common a over pan. uch s the doctrne
whch, dsowned n theory by the dvnes of the Poman
church, but growng out of the system of sant-w orshp,
consttutes the man regous feeng of the vugar, and
tants strongy the mnds of the hgher casses n pan.
The Chronces of the Pegous 0rders are fu of nar-
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0T .
421
ratves, the whoe drft of whch s to represent ther
patron sant as powerfu to save from the very |aws of
he. The sk of the panter has often been engaged to
e hbt these stores to the eye, and the pansh con-
vents abound n pctures more encouragng to vce than
the most profgate prnts of the Paas Poya. I recoect
one at eve n the convent of the ntonnes a spe-
ces of the genus Monachus rancscan us of the Mo-
nackooga so strangey absurd, that I hope the reader
w forgve my engthenng ths note wth ts descrp-
ton. The pcture I aude to was n the costers of the
convent of an ntono, facng the prncpa entrance,
so ate as the year 1810, when I was ast at eve. The
sub|ect s the har-breadth escape of a great snner,
whom t. rancs saved aganst a chances. n e tract
from the Chronces of the 0rder, whch s found n a
corner of the pantng, nforms the behoder that the
person whose sou s represented on the canvass, was a
awess nobeman, who, fortfed n hs own caste, be-
came the terror and abhorrence of the neghbourhood.
s nether the fe of man, nor the honour of woman,
was safe from the voence of hs passons, none wngy
dwet upon hs auds, or approached the gate of the
caste. It chanced, however, that two rancscan
frars, havng ost the way n a stormy nght, apped
for sheter at the wcked nobeman s gate, where they
met wth nothng but nsut and scorn. It was we
for them that the fame of t. rancs fed the word at
that tme. The hoy sant, wth the assstance of tf
Pau, had atey cut the throat of an Itaan bshop, who
bad ressted the estabshment of the rancscans n hs
docese.
Ths curous scene s the sub|ect of another pcture n the
costers of ant rancs, at eve. The bshop s seen n hs bed,
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The fear of a smar punshment abated the ferceness
of the nobeman, and he ordered bs servants to gve the
frars some cean straw for a bed, and a coupe of eggs
for ther supper. Havng gven ths e panaton, the
panter trusts to the approprate anguage of hs art, and
takes up the story mmedatey after the death of the
nobe snner. Mchae the archange who by a trad-
tona beef, unversa n pan, and probaby common
to a Cathoc countres, s consdered to have the charge
of weghng departed sous wth ther good works,
aganst the sns they have commtted s represented
wth a arge par of scaes u hs hand. evera anges,
n a group, stand near hm, and a crowd of devs are
watchng, at a respectfu dstance, the resut of the tra.
The newy-departed sou, n the puny shape of a scky
boy, has been paced, naked, n one scae, whe the op-
poste groans under a monstrous heap of swords, dag-
gers, posoned bows, ove-etters, and portrats of femaes,
who had been the vctms of hs ferce desres. It s
evdent that ths ponderous mass woud have greaty out-
weghed the sght and neary transparent form whch
was to oppose ts pressure, had not ant rancs, whose
fgure stands promnent n the pantng, asssted the ds-
where ant rancs as neaty severed the head from the body wth
ant Pau s sword, whch he had borrowed for ths pous purpose.
s the good frars mght have been suspected of havng a hand n
ths mrace, the sant performed an addtona wonder. The fgures
of ant Pau and ant rancs stood sde by sde n a panted gass
wndow of the prncpa convent of the order. The aposte had a
sword n hs hand, whe hs companon was weaponess. To the
great surprse of the fathers, t was observed, one mornng, that
ant Pau had gven away the sword to hs frend. The death of
the bshop, whch happened that very nght, e paned the wonder,
and taught the word what those mght e pect who thwarted the
pans of Heaven n the estabshment of the rancscans.
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0T .
423
tressed sou by sppng a coupe of eggs aud a bunde
of straw nto ts own sde of the baance. Upon ths
seasonabe addton, the nstruments and embems of
gut are seen to fy up and kck the beam. It appears
from ths that the pansh panter agrees wth Mton n
the system of weghng ate : and that, snce the days of
Homer and rg, superor weght s become the sgn of
vctory, whch wth them was that of defeat quo vergat
pondere ethum.
0T D.
0n the Mora Character of the pansh |esuts, p. 77.
Whatever we may thnk of the potca denquences
of ther eaders, ther btterest enemes have never ven-
tured to charge the 0rder of |esuts wth mora rregua-
rtes. The nterna pocy of that body precuded the
possbty of gross msconduct. o |esut coud step out
of doors wthout cang on the superor for eave and a
companon, n the choce of whom great care was taken
to vary the coupes. ever were they aowed to pass a
snge nght out of the convent, e cept when attendng a
dyng person : and, even then, they were under the
strctest n|unctons to return at whatever hour the sou
departed. othng, however, can gve a more strkng
vew of the dscpne and nterna government of the |e-
suts than a case we known n my famy, whch I sha
here nsert as not devod of nterest. |esut of good
conne ons, and more than common abtes, had, durng
a ong resdence at Granada, become a genera favourte,
and especay n a famy of dstncton where there were
some young ades. 0n one of the three days propery
named the Carnva, he happened to ca at that house,
and found the whoe famy ndugng wth a few ntmate
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4-24
0T ..
frends n the usua mrth of the season but a s a pr-
vate domestc manner. Wth the freedom and vvacty
pecuar to pansh femaes, the young ades formed a
conspracy to make ther favourte |esut stand up and
dance wth them. Pesstance was n van : they teased
and ca|oed the poor man, t he, n good-natured con-
descenson, got up, moved n the dance for a few mnutes,
and retred agan to hs seat. ears eapsed: he was
removed from Granada, and probaby forgot the transent
gaety nto whch he had been betrayed. It s we
known that the genera of the |esuts, who made Pome
hs constant resdence, apponted from thence to every
offce n the order a over the word. But so tte ca-
prce nfuenced those nomnatons, that the frends of the
unfortunate dancer were day e pectng to see hm
eected provnca governor of the |esuts n ndausa.
To ther great surprse, however, the eecton fe upon
a much nferor man. s the eectons were trenna,
tbe strongest nterest was made for the ne t turn. Pressed
on a sdes, the genera desred hs secretary to return a
wrtten answer. It was conceved n these words : It
cannot be: he danced at Granada.
I have seen Capuchn frars, the most austere order of
rancscans, rattng on a gutar, and sngng Boeros
before a m ed company n the open feds and I have
heard of a frar, who beng caed to watch over a death-
bed, n a decent but poor famy, bad the audacty to
take gross bertes wth a femae n the very room where
the sck man ay speechess. He recovered, however
strength enough to communcate ths horrd nsut to hs
son, from whom I have the fact. The convent to whch
ths frar beonged, s notorous, among the-ower casses,
for profgacy.
I sha add a tte trat ustratve of pansh manners.
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0T . H5
frar n hgh gee s commony remnded of hs pro-
fesson, n a |eerng tone, by the wags of the company.
Cres of, Cdnamo, Padre, (hemp, my father ) are heard
from a sdes, audng to the scourge used for the ds-
cpne, whch s made of that substance, and recommend-
ng t as a proper cure for rebeous sprts. These two
words w cut a frar to the heart.
0T .
0n the Prevaence of ceptcsm among the Cathoc
Cergy. p. 100.
I once heard an ngsh genteman, who had resded
a ong tme n |tay, where he obtaned odgngs n a
convent, reate hs surprse at the termnaton of a frendy
dscusson whch he had wth the most abe ndvduas
of the house, on the ponts of dfference between the
Churches of ngand and Pome. The dspute had been
anmated, and supported wth great abty on the Ca-
thoc sde by one of the youngest monks. When, at
ength, a, e cept the chef dsputants, had retred, the
young monk, turnng to hs ngsh guest, asked hm
whether he reay beeved what he bad been defendng
Upon recevng a serous answer n the affrmatve, he
coud not hep e camng, or e crede pu che utto
convento.
0T .
The Chd God. p. 147.
The representaton of the Dety n the form- of a chd
s very common n pan, The number of tte fgures,
about a foot hgh, caed o Dos, or no |esus,
s. neary equa to that of nuns n most convents.
The. n ns dress th em n a the varety of the natona
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0T .
costumes, such as cergymen, canons n ther chora
robes, doctors of dvnty n ther hoods, physcans u
ther wgs and god-headed canes, c. c. The no
|esus s often found n prvate houses and n some parts
of pan, where contraband trade s the man occupaton
of the peope, s seen n the dress of a smugger wth a
brace of pstos at hs grde, and a bunderbuss eanng
on hs arm.
0T G.
0n the Town of 0bera p. 170.
In De Pocca s M mores sur a Guerre des ran as
en spagne, there s a trat so perfecty n character
wth Don Leucado s descrpton of the peope of 0bera,
that I must beg eave to transcrbe t :
ous form mes un bvouac dans une prare entour e
de murs, attenante auberge qu est sur a route au
bas du vage. Les habtans furent, pendant e reste
du |our, assez tranques en apparence, et s nous fourn-
rent des vvres mas, au eu d un |eune b uf que
| avas demand , s nous apport rent un ne coup en
quarters : es hussards trouv rent que ce veau, comme
s appeaent, avat e go t un peu fade mas ce ne
fut que ong-temps apr s que nous appr mes cette bzarre
trompere, par es montagnards eu -m mes. Is nous
craent souvent, dans a sute, en traant avec nous,
ous avez mang de ne 0bera. C tat, dans eur
opnon, a pus sangante des n|ures qu on p t fare
des chr tens.
De Pocca s book abounds n vey pctures of pansh
manners, especay n the account he gves of the er-
rana de Ponda wthout ndugng natona partates,
he does fu |ustce to hs morta enemes, and represents
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0T .
427
them the most favourabe coours whch were consstent
wth truth.
0T H.
The effectua ad gven by that Crucf n the Pague
of 14 , was upon record. p. 174.
uga, n hs nnas, copes a pansh nscrpton,
whch st e sts n the convent of ant ugustn, at
eve of whch I sub|on a transaton :
In 1 4 , ths town beng under a most voent attack
of the pague, of whch great numbers ded, the two
most ustrous Chapters, ccesatca and ecuar, re-
quested that ths communty of our father t. ugustn,
shoud aow the mage of Chrst to be carred to the
Cathedra. It was, accordngy, conveyed, on the second
of |uy of the same year, n a soemn processon, at-
tended by the ecuar Chapter (theTown Corporaton),
and a the regous communtes, amdst the oud wa-
ngs of the peope when the most ustrous the Chap-
ter of the Cathedra waked to meet the processon at the
end of the street of the Pacentnes.f The most hoy
mage was eft that evenng and the ensung nght n the
spnosa, the modern edtor and annotator of unga, states,
from ancent records, that wthn the frst s weeks after the ap-
pearance of the pague, the number of deaths amounted to eghty
thousand. Ths, however, we consder as a papabe e aggeraton
for, though eve was neary depopuated on that occason, t s
probabe that t never contaned more than one hundred thousand
nhabtants.
f eve has severa streets bearng the name of foregn natons
a fant memora of ts former commerce and weath. The street
of the Pacentnes s a contnuaton of that of the ranks ( rancos).
There s a Lombard treet (cae Lombardos), a Genoa treet, and
some others of a smar denomnaton.
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42 0T .
Cathedra, and returned the ne t day to ts shrne, our
Lord beng peased to ordan that the pague shoud
begn to abate from the day when the mage was brought
out, and cease atogether at the end of the 0ctavaro,
(eght days worshp), as t was attested by the physcans.
Wherefore the most nobe and most oya cty of eve
apponted the sad second of |uy, for ever, to repar
to ths convent as an act of thanksgvng for that great
beneft.
In spte of ths soemn acknowedgment of the mrace,
the astroogers of that day were unwng to gve the
crucf the whoe credt of stayng the pague. uTga
shrewdy observes that the con|uncton of |upter wth
Mars, whch, accordng to Captan rancs de Puesta,
removed the nfecton, dd not take pace t the 12th of
|uy, ten days after the wonderfu effects of the proces-
son had become vsbe : and the Captan hmsef, pro-
baby to keep cear of the Inquston, decares that the
favourabe nfuence of the panets was prevousy en-
sured by the e hbton of the Hoy Chrst of ant
ugustn. nrrga, naes de eva, t. v. p. 404.
0T I.
cous Habts of the Pegous Probatoners. p. 1 5.
The pansh satrca nove, ray Gerundo de Cam-
pazas, contans a vey pcture of the adventures of
a- ovce. It was wrtten by Padre Isa, a |esut, for
the purpose of checkng the foppery and absurdty of the
popuar preachers. Cervantes hmsef coud not boast
of greater success n banshng the books of Chvary
than Isa n shamng the frars out of the affected and
often profane concett, whch, n hs tme, were mstaken
for pupt eoquence. But the Inquston coud not
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42
endure that her great props, the regous orders, shoud
be e posed, n any of ther members, to the shafts of r-
dcue and ray Gerundo was prohbted.
0T .
book entted Memoras para a vda de cmo.
enor D. Gaspar Mechor de |oveanos, was pubshed,
at Madrd, n 1814, by Cean Bermudez. Ths gente-
man, whose unnterrupted ntmacy from eary youth
wth the sub|ect of hs Memors, enabed hm to draw
an anmated pcture of one of the most nterestng men
that pan has produced n her decne, has, probaby,
from the habts of reserve and fase notons of decorum,
st prevaent n that country, greaty dsapponted our
hopes. What reates to |oveanos hmsef s confned to
a few pages, contanng tte more than the dates of
events connected wth hs pubc fe, some vague deca-
maton, and a few nuendos on the great ntrgues whch,
havng rased hm to the mnstry, confned hm soon af-
ter to the fortress of Bever. The second part contans
a cataogue, and a sght anayss of hs works. The
frends of |oveanos, however, are ndebted to the
author of the Memoras, for the hep whch ths coecton
of notes on the fe of that truy e ceent and amabe
man w afford any future wrter who, wth more setted
habts of freedom, and atogether under more favourabe
crcumstances, sha undertake to draw the fu-ength
pcture of whch we yet scarcey possees a sketch.
or the satsfacton of such of our readers as may
wsh to know the fate of |oveanos, we sub|on a bref
account of the ast years of hs fe.
Upon the accesson of erdnand II., |oveanos
was, by roya order, reeased from hs confnement, and
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430
0T .
subsequenty eected a Member of the Centra |unta.
When the rench entered eve n 1810, and the
Pegency of Cadz superseded the |unta, he wshed tore-
tre to hs natve pace, G|on, n sturas.
The popuar feeng, e asperated by natona msfor-
tunes, was now ventng tsef aganst the abdcated Go-
vernment, to whose want of energy the advantages of the
rench were ndscrmnatey attrbuted and |oveanos,
accdenta y detaned n the Bay of Cadz, had the mor-
tfcaton of earnng that he was nvoved n the absurd
and shamefu suspcon of havng shared n the spo of
the pansh treasury, wth whch the Centra |unta was
charged. dgnfed appea to the candour of the na-
ton, whch he sent to the Cadz papers for nserton,
was not permtted to see the ght so narrow and be-
ra were the vews of the Pegency and the feeng and
hgh-mnded Castan had to sa under the ntoerabe
apprehenson that some of hs countrymen mght ook
upon hm as a feon endeavourng to abscond from
|ustce.
If any one crcumstance coud add to the panfuness
of |oveanos stuaton, t was that, whe the thought-
essness or the ngrattude of hs countrymen thus n-
voved hm n a suspcon of pecuaton, the state of hs
fnances was such as to have obged hm to accept the
sum of tte more than one hundred pounds, the savngs
of many year s servce, whch hs trusty vaet pressed
upon hm, wth tears, that he mght defray the e penses
of ther remova from eve.
fter beng amost wrecked on the coast of Gaca,
|oveanos was obged to and at the sma town of
Muros. Here he had to endure a fresh nsut from the
petty |unta of that provnce, by whose orders hs papers
were mnutey searched, and copes taken at the opton
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0T I .
431
of an offcer sent for that purpose wth a mtary de-
tachment.
temporary retreat of the rench from G|on enabed
|oveanos to revst hs natve town but an une pected
return of the nvaders obged hm soon after to take
shp wth the utmost precptaton, Hs fght was so
sudden that he was actuay at sea wthout havng deter-
mned upon a pace of refuge. Had the venerabe and
unhappy fugtve stened to the repeated nvtatons
whch hs ntmate frend Lord Hoand sent hm after
the frst appearance of danger from the progress of the
rench, hs fe mght have been proonged under the
hosptabe roof of Hoand House. But |oveanos s no-
tons of pubc duty were too e ated and romantc: and
he woud not qut pan whe there was a snge spot n
the possesson of her patrots.
In attemptng to reach by sea the port of Pbadeo,
where there ay a pansh frgate, n whch he hoped to
fnd a passage to Cadz, another storm kept hm for eght
days under the pecuar hardshps of a dangerous na-
vgaton n a sma and crowded shp. hausted both
n body and mnd, and wth a heart amost broken by
the -treatment he had met wth at the cose of a ong
fe spent n the servce of hs country, he anded at
ega, where, the poverty of the town offerng no better
accommodatons, he was paced n the same room wth
ades Lanos, an od frend and reaton, who had
|oned hm n the fght, and seemed so shattered by age
and fatgue, as not to be abe to survve the effects of the
ate storm. Here |oveanos empoyed hs remanng
strength n nursng and comfortng hs feow-sufferer,
t, ades beng near hs end, hs frend was, accordng
to the notons of the country, removed to another room.
But death had aso ad hs hand on |oveanos. Two
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432
0T .
days after competng hs s ty-s th year, he was ad
n the same grave wth hs frend.
In the ppend o. 2, to Lord Hoand s Lfe of Lope de ega
are found both the orgnas and transatons of some eoquent pas-
sages from |oveanos s pen, to whch I have made an auson n
ths note. Hs portrat aso, from a marbe bust e ecuted at eve
by Don nge Monastero, at hs ordshp s desre, and now n hs
possesson, s pref ed to the second voume of the same work.
TH D.
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