SEAM TYPES

The choice of seam type is determined by aesthetic standards, strength, durability, comfort in wear, convenience in assembly in relation to the machinery available, and cost. referred to above, allows for eight different classes of seam, including some where only one piece of fabric is involved. CLASS 01: SUPERIMPOSED SEAM Superimposed Seam (SS): The superimposed seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of together. This is the one of the most common method of seaming. The most basic superimposed seam is made when one ply of fabric is stacked upon another with thread stitching through all plies of fabric. Variations are plain seam, French seams and Double machine seam
.

FRENCH SEAM

PIPED SEAM

CLASS 02: LAPPED SEAM

Lapped Seam (LS): Lapped seam is made with two or more pieces of fabric overlapping each other. LS commonly, but not always, have one ply of fabric fold under itself for a finished edge. Lapped seams are common when sewing side seams on jeans and dress shirts. This class of seaming has the largest number of variations.

LAPPED SEAM

Lap-felled seam.

WELTED SEAM

CLASS0:BOUND SEAM Bound Seams (BS): Bound seam is made to finish and edge of a garment. A common example of this would be a neckline of a Crew T. A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the raw edge of another piece of fabric. There are many variations of a bound seam.

OPEN BINDER EDGE BOUND SEAM

BOTH BINDER EDGES TURNED

COMPOUND BOUND SEAM

CLASS04: FLAT SEAM Flat Seam (FS): A flat seam is constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely at their edges. A cover stitch is used to sew the two pieces of fabric together. This stitch has multiple needles and creates a stitch perpendicular to the seam line. This creates a flat seam. Plain seam is a flat seam.

FLAT SEAM Edge Finished Seams (EF): This seam is used to prevent the edges of the fabric from rolling or curling. Primarily used for knit fabrics and is suitable for straight or curved seams and edges.

Hemmed edges (i) 504/103, (ii) 301, (iii) 2 301, (iv) 2 401.

Ornamental Seam (OS): this seam is made using machines with zigzag capability. It is used on a plain seam on woven or knit fabric. The zigzag stitch length (coverage) must be adjusted

to accommodate and prevent fabric from ravelling. The more the fabric ravels, the closer together the stitches need to be (tighter or shorter stitch length)

Decorative seams (i) 2 301, (ii) 4 401, (iii) pin tucks, (iv) channel seam

CLASS 07:
Seams in this class relate to the addition of separate items to the edge of a garment part. They are similar to the lapped seam except that the added component has a definite edge on both sides.

Addition of separate items (i) 304 lace, (ii) 321, (iii) 406/504. Fig. 3.16(i), elastic braid on the edge of a bra as in (ii), and inserted elastic on the leg of a swimsuit as in (iii).

Shirt buttonhole band, 2 401

Class 8
The final seam class in the British Standard is another where only one piece of material need be involved in constructing the seam. The commonest seam type in this class is the belt loop as used on jeans, raincoats, etc. This is shown in Fig. 3.18(i). Also included in this classare belts themselves; two possible constructions for these are shown in Figs 3.18(ii) and (iii).

Belt loop and belts (i) 406, (ii) 301, (iii) 301.