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The Cave Dwellers of Southern Tunisia - Recollections of A Sojourn With The Khalifa of Matmata - (1898) - Daniel Brumm
The Cave Dwellers of Southern Tunisia - Recollections of A Sojourn With The Khalifa of Matmata - (1898) - Daniel Brumm
The Cave Dwellers of Southern Tunisia - Recollections of A Sojourn With The Khalifa of Matmata - (1898) - Daniel Brumm
THE
CAVE DWELLERS
OF
SOUTHERN TUNISIA
RECOLLECTIONS OF A SOJOURN WITH THE
KHALIFA OF MATMATA
DANIEL BRUUN
BY
A. E. B.
London: W.
THACKER &
CO.,
Calcutta:
c <
'
r T
PREFACE
My
journey among the cave dwellers of Southern
I
was
of
entrusted
by Doctor Sophius
Miiller,
Director
Museum,
ethno-
with
the
honourable
task
of
purchasing
museum.
it
On
to
all
is
incumbent upon me to
those
:
my
sincere
thanks
who
the
afforded
me
of
my
travels
Minister
Foreign Affairs,
at
French Regency,
for
me
to travel through
country,
and
nlso
an
escort,
guides,
etc.
Doctor
Miiller
and
Chamberlain
given from
Vedel, the
whose
respective
introductions,
National
Museum and
tions,
tr*
the
Society concerned
with ancient
introduced
me
Gauckler and
619397
vi
PREFACE
Bertlioloii,
Doctor
for
whose friendship
have to thank
much
Drummond
knowcircum-
my
path through
of his remarkable
he sketched a plan of
required
to
my
in
journey, from
which
make
little
or no deviation.
The
Government
and
officers
El
Arad,
the
officials,
civilian,
showed me the
in the highest
me
degree
my
its
warmest gratitude.
Much
some
to
of
what
left in
home,
as,
my
wife,
some
to other persons,
for
Herr Hegel.
have not
might
Several porpul)lication in
du Monde.
from
in
The
sources.
illustrations
were
the
obtained
various
Tunis,
Albert,
photographer
to
obligingly allowed
of
me
make
and
I
use of a numl)er
chiefly
photographs,
drawn
-
the
views
a
of
the
town
camera
of
the
sea
coast.
With
detective
myself
took
some
PREFACE
instantaneous
vii
photographs
on
the
journey
from
Besides
these,
Mr.
Knud Gamborg
has
engraved some
Q-ave
drawings of
my
own.
Mr.
Gauckler also
me
in
Matmata mountains.
made an
expedition to
left
my
of
manuscript with
my
friend
Doctor
aflbrded
Kragelund,
Hobro,
who
had already
me
to
his
assistance,
and
gave
him
full
powers
arrange
In
the
somewhat heterogeneous
materials.
as
my
taken a very
enabled
it
important
be
of
part
in
I
in
its
my
tender
work,
and
form.
to
act
pul)lished
present
For
this
friendship
him
my
warmest thanks.
Daniel Bruun.
November 1894.
Note.
since the
The
having elapsed
published,
VlU
PREFACE
traiisLition.
many
cases to
of
little
no interest to
English readers.
CONTENTS
CHAP.
I.
II.
......
.
5
17
III.
IV.
V.
RETURN TO GABS
VI. VII.
VIII.
.... ....
THE
32 59
93
116 129
152 158
SH0TT8
IX.
X.
XT.
XII.
XIII.
.... ....
217
233
XIV.
BACK TO TUNIS
XVII. TUNIS
SUPPLEMENT
COSTUMES
THE
THE
POSTSCRIPT
243 253
274 285
292
A SYNOPSIS
.
324
334
1^
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
DRUMMOND
SUSA
Frontispiece
8
13
20
24
25
TOWER
IN
JEWESSES AT MENZEL
28
30
33 37
43
45 46
49 59 G2 65
HOLD UP
EXCAVATED STABLE
A CAVE INTERIOR
FALCONERS
MANSUR
MEDININ
66
t i
100
I
WHERE
LIVED- PLAN
103
112
113
117
THE MOUNTAINS
120
XII
LIST
OF ILLUSTRATIONS
1
REARING
A TUAREG
PAGE
15G
169
176
179
219
224
245 248
251
OF A TRIBAL CHIEF
254
262 289
rv
in Tunis
Though
I
the
midday sun
still
sat at
my
ease
and the
flies
drawn
I
Ijlinds.
rail,
over
shallow lagoon
known
the
as the
hills
Lake of Tunis.
seemed
to
Be-
yond Goletta
blue
quiver
my
eyes
were
standing on
tlie
As we sped over
circular wall,
the
traces
of
the
mighty
I
\i^2r^\i
I
':
,
CAVE DWELLERS
e c
and requested
at
tlie
conductor to
stop
the
train
the
English
Consul's
summer
abode.
Down
white
walked to the
summer
a
with
its
beautiftd
columned
proud
name
with
that
my
host
bears,
in
J.
the
name
history
associated
unfailino;
honour
father,
of
Morocco.
His
late
Sir
H.
Drummond Hay,
tically
past forty
years.
He
represented
Denmark
also,
and under
him
his son
won
My
me
that
we might
quietly
my
in the south-west
mountains
of the Sahara
race such as
are scarcely
excellent
be
found elsewhere.
Consul
for
Our
country's
Representative,
a
it
Cubisol,
had
procured
me
French
permit
would
l.)e
difficult for
by
Europeans.
In the spring,
a tour
on horseback over
Tunisia
;
part
of
Southern
WITH DRUMMOND HAY
the
loc-alitic,
IN
TUNIS
native
chiefs
who wouhi
He
under-
is
quite con-
with
of
the the
life,
opinions,
manners,
and
customs
habitants.
in-
His
far
wife
had travelled
wide
with
and
in
him
under
his
and
accomto
panied
capital
him
of
also
the
;
Morocco
is
so
she
well
life.
versed in Oriental
Together we traced
the plan of
nev,
my
in
jour-
which,
,
the
ma
after wa rds
followed.
will
Here
I
lUUTISII
not
1
anticipate
relate later
;
what
that
I
shall
only
to
premising
tliis
owe
first
and foremost
Drummond Hay
journey those
my
To
him
was
CAVE DWELLERS
Both
my
many
years
in
Stockhohii,
Consul there.
them, as
Drummond
beino-
Carstensen,
dauohter
the
last
Danish
Consul-General at Tanoier.
on account of the
many
Maltese living
there
under
British
protection,
since
but
also
in-
directly,
in
more
especially
;
the
country
it
will
therefore
be
understood
is
one of
"
CHAPTER
SUSA
"
A HAPPY
journey
until
our next
meeting,
1
and
may
These were
parting
words of
my
friend
who
bade
me
of Tunis.
Numbers
on the
horizon,
Out on the
the Mediterranean.
stilling,
but after we
Bay
grew cooler
entrance
the
homeward-
bound
fishing-boats.
Just at sunset
we reached
To the
Hammamlif
CAVE DWELLERS
Amid
the
noisy
whistling
of
the
I
steamer,
tumbled on
my
my way
where a frugal
dinner awaited
went
had
so lono^ed
in
Tunis.
One
them
rose to the
throuoli
auain.
the
little
in
its
head, then
sank
deck
rose
face.
now
l)e<'an
to stir into
its
life,
and each
as
it
threw
l)ack
He had
haps wives),
several children
Gfirl
rojiuish little
came
to discover
what
was
contemplating.
clean,
and })eeped up
while
The
came
SUS
tliat
slie
threw
1)ack a fold of
herself.
lier
child
and
What
Upon
On
yet
slope,
quite
near,
lay
Susa
white,
the
summit of the
wall,
slope were
some towers
and a crenelated
another
wall.
Below
the
harbour,
;
too
to enter
we had
therefore to
lie
boat took
me
to the quay,
all ages,
black-eyed boys of
As the boat
to
seize
down
to
my
little
push them
caught up
my
handbag,
another
my
umbrella,
and a third
my
me
photographic apparatus.
to
It
was
long
l)cfore
could
lad.
left,
collect
everything
my
little
guide and
marched up
lives.
to the Kasba,
here, too,
knew
that
should find a
collection
of antiquities.
and
CAVE DWELLERS
tlie
Punic Wars.
it
Trajan
"
the capital of
the province.
rebuilt
was
laid
who
utilised
portion
of
its
ancient
Later
SUSA.
piratical
fleets.
v.
therefore assaulted
l)y
by Charles
in 1537,
Andreas Doria
after
Tunis,
the
most
SUS
iinportunt
9
is
town
in the
Regency, and
of the Bey.
governed
by a Khalifa
in the
name
all
Ninnerous remains of
found
the
ruins
in
Susa.
surrounding country,
abound.
and ancient
I
From
the
Commandant
Later, the
learnt
that the
time
of the Phoenicians.
Romans,
as
who
these.
In
the
salle
dlionneur
are
arranged
many
From Roman
partly
buried
in
vessels,
fio-ures.
vases,
and
l)roken fraoments
itself,
of marble
The Kasba
and
with
its
many
tiles,
Arabs or Turks.
In
nearly
every
instance
the
mosaics
depict
horses, their
names
them.
One
sees
lo
CAVE DWELLERS
The
treatment
is
horses' forefeet.
I
inquired of the
horses
Commandant whether
and that
tribes
particu-
larly fine
He
in the direction
of
Kairwan there
are
nomad
of noble race.
I
now
my
used as a
whence
encircled
all
me
by
protecting wall.
sides, olive
woods met
I
could catch a
There
out
lield
the
French.
their
fire
on the French
killing n
number
of
both
ofiicers
and men.
on the
fines
and homes.
My
me
through the
streets,
SUS
where drowsy lazy Moors crouclicd,
tlieir
li
luilf
asleep in
loveliest
in
The
ahout
of
small
streets,
boys and
girls
were
lying
the
here
much
to
the
ol)struction
traliic,
Stepping into a
found,
to
little
Moorish coffee-house,
that the interior
my
astonishmeiit,
re-
sembled
its
in construction
an old Byzantine
basilica,
The The
named
" el
Kaunat
el
Kubba," which
may
more
1)c
Notliing could be
artistic
this
very
At
five
o'clock
it
was dark.
The stream
of
and empty.
and
sat after
dinner reading
my
papers,
till
heard a frightful
They shouted
them
said a
1
and yelled
in
measured time.
all
)ne of
was
They
Bahr,
Bab
el
coU'ee-liouse of the
dome.
Translator's Note.
12
CAVE DWELLERS
went
for a turn
Jedir.
The
number
of
mud
were
sizes,
carriages
and
carts, horses
stabled.
Outside
shapes and
piles
of
vessels of all
for
wine or water
longing to
found be-
jars of spiral
in
have seen
the
museum
at Carthage.
manuas
it
same to-day
ago.
The gateway
is
sides,
it
is
always
filled
by
idlers
and beggars.
well as for
them.
their
I
through the
SUS
light, and,
l)lue sea.
15
beyond
it,
man
or
boy perched
his
Along the
herd of goats,
The herd
Then
negresses,
Then
other veiled
covered their
these,
all
A number
of boys followed
One held
a foretaste of Paradise to an
Arab boy.
Lastly passed a strange couple.
On
an ordinary
astride,
and behind
on her horse, a
little
boy
Towards evening
it
grew
cooler.
Amongst
the
was to take
me
south.
It
was
lit
ujd
with numbers
everywhere with
flags,
honour
of the
Russian
i6
CAVE DWELLERS
which that day was to enter Toulon.
all
fleet,
Festival
Illustrated editions of
French newspapers,
with
coloured
pictures
of
Russian
and
French
cafs,
tobacco shops,
The
lioht
lit.
The moon
The
irregular line of
the wall and the Kasba tower showed dark against the heavens.
air
and the
CHAPTER
From Sfax
111
to Gbs
tlie
At
the
a.m.
on the morning of
14tli
October,
left
Ville
cVOran
of
weighed
in
anchor
and
the
for
roadstead
Monastir.
Susa
])rilliant
weather
Monastir, or
]\listir,
has
a popnlation of nine
thousand
Europeans.
later,
inhabitants, of
It
whom
of the
Romans.
It
is
now
Ornamented with
crossed the
to the opposite
;
side.
Here
grave
In the very
cistern,
which must
soon
me
Jezirel el
el
Hammam
el
Sid
Abd
Fairt
i8
CAVE DWELLERS
its
named
Jezirel el
Austan (Central
I
Still
passed Moorish
shore.
women
num-
At
ten
o'clock
at
eleven we started, steering for Mehdia, some thirtysix miles farther south.
On
ancient
the
Thapsus.
Numerous
In
o'clock.
now
it
The
;
Sicilians ])esieged
1147
;
the
Duke
of
Bourbon
in
1390
and Charles
V. in 1557.
The knights
and the
ffrave of
is still
shown.
oil,
Some Europeans
dried
fruits,
In the
months
of
In one night a
as
may
take even as
fish.
much
from four to
hundredweight of
Large
vessels
do not follow
the
coast
from
19
to
Sfax,
being shallow.
Along
this
stretch
of
sea
have
These
in-
buoys are
filled
with compressed
oil,
and burn
They
are constructed to
A
rise
and
fall
of as
much
in
from
Bergen,
and
discharging
1881 by a
a
serious
under
Admiral
Garnault,
after
bombardment which
laid
The
faces the
and
To
by
the rear
its
lies
the
Arab town,
still
surrounded
walls
and towers.
1
On
landing
for
Sweden
in
20
CAVE DWELLERS
made
the
for himself a
in the hirge,
in
and perhaps
place.
firm
of
timber
traders
His
em
i
J:
^^
lir,
""^stA
AT SFAX.
{From a painting hy Mrs. Henriksen.)
office
Olsen, his
is
co-partner,
likewise a Northerner.
Henriksen
it is
seldom
21
me
to his liome
and intiodiiced me to
from Christiania.
I
his wife,
Norwegian
hxdy
spent a
which
is
commands
a view
of the harhour.
Mrs.
walls
ireurikscu
is
very
lair
artist.
On
the
of
hung sketches
of her northern
home and
Sfax, painted
talent.
me
most.
She most
amiably promised to
ing
for
])e
my
me
to
make use
my
Sfax
book.
is
about
fifty
thousand
inhabitants, of
whom
considerable trade
grass,
carried on
last
in sponges,
oil,
and esparto
this
being worked by a
;
Franco-Anglo-Tunisian
Company
called
in
in
addition
to
especially
cucuml)ers,
from
town.
In
which,
no
doubt,
arises
name
of
the
the
neighbourhood
the
are
many
villas
and
the
gardens, where
Komans had
are
of which
many
traces
found.
the
22
CAVE DWELLERS
I
covered streets
saw
arches, wliich
by
their capitals
origin,
and heard of
Roman
Sfax
is
discovered.
is
a fine
body of
my
visit
many were
four
hours
Galdes.
oolden strand
in the backo;round
some white
Such
is
palm grove.
the
sea.
short
distance
called on the
com-
manding
officer,
whom
deed
recommended me,
directing that
in
he should assist
the
me by word and
my
journey to
introduced
me
to
many
whom,
lent guide.
me
and
off as
my
"
'
When
Syrtes
the
soil
there
is
much
and
all
marvellously
fruitful.
The town
extends in
23
Here
is
found
a
is
and
liere
palm
Under
gi'ows a pomegranate,
Moreover,
l)eneatli
then
Yes,
vegetables
or
in
the
same
year.
other."
description
can
l)e
ap])]ied in the
main
Of
this
town,
created
bv the
Carthaginians,
colonised bv the
archbishopric,
Eomans, and
an
hills
now
diffic'ult
even to
lie
trace.
Remains of
cisterns can
imperishable cement
of which
the
Romans
Menzel,
still
alone
been
removed
Jara,
and
to be
found, in
capitals
the
wretched
l)as-reliefs,
native
side
buildingS;
side
carved
sun-
and
by
with
But
Tlic
it
is
lono'
since this
in
old
town vanished.
Arab geographers
24
CAVE DWELLERS
as also
centuries,
Leo Africanus
in
tlie
sixteentli
l)e
They
tell
us of a great fortress
TOWER
IN
extensive
suburbs.
tlieir
Then the
Mohammedan
con-
querors laid
iron
and
Jara
and
Menzel,
each
now
containing
Both
villaires
were
and
25
of
which Shenini
is
JEWESSES AT MENZKL.
To
the
keep
these
erected,
rival
villages
in
subjection,
Turks
just
l)etween
f(n-t).
them,
It
fort
Borj
Jedia
(the
new
was
July
blown
1881,
up by French
marines on
the
21st
26
CAVE DWELLERS
they
assaulted,
when
stormed,
and
seized
the
villages.
liiits,
taverns,
after
the
first
occupation,
sorts
formed a place of
resort
for
all
of
named
" Co-
by the
soldiers.
Out
as
of this has
grown
known
the
Port of Gabes.
This
is
occupied
l)y
of from one to
Mediterranean
Allegro,
resides
but
now
in
the
long streets
there
are
commandants'
Behind
the
town
to
the
south,
lie
In former days
but
l)rought to the
town
oasis.
or the
its
source
its
soil,
bed,
to
through
oasis,
saline
and lime-charged
the water
down
niucli
the
wherefore
is
contains
magnesia, and
in
FROM SFAX TO GABES
some, and has caused the death of
colonist
27
many
a youngtlie
and
suhlicr.
Tt is said
in
ihe
five-and-twenty.
In old times the water
of colonisation,
collected
in
used,
cisterns.
are
The Arab
rider,
given
me
the
as
guide,
and
the
Gabes
oasis
from
sea
tow^ards
the
interior.
It
was
the
can
remember ever
The
horses
while the
panted
cliffs
through
the
deep
sand.
From
trees,
behind the
The
light
and on the
where grew
all
kinds of
fruit
figs,
trees
olives,
and many
others.
The
air
28
CAVE DWELLERS
and plants.
Beneath the shade of the thick
trees
foliage
dammed by means
own land
as in our
irrigation.
By
small
paths
and roads we
wandered
on,
if
we
it
overladen mules
was a squeeze
to pass
by them.
trees.
Only now
tents, or
some straw
29
the
foliage,
could
we hear
and
and
the
barking
of
dogs.
Women
we
in
saw men
their
in scanty clotliing
gardeus,
or
women weeding
beds and
o-atherino;
henna
in 1)askets.
Birds
Hew from
open spaces.
Wood
in
oasis
had
fired at hare,
1)y
quail, or partridge.
sea,
On
the
from the
new rough
handsome
carved capitals.
We
plain,
and saw
in the
far distance,
which
palms,
dykes.
by the arching
l)etween
we came
There
it
to a l)roader
road
high
was
difficult to
advance, as some
with stone.
;o
CAVE DWELLERS
The way now turned towards the
rivei".
As we
left
the opposite
side.
The
river
with
women and
children
washing
clothes
were
Avhilst shortly-kilted
/.li^a
BKIDUE.
waded
by
boards.
Most
their
to see us,
some turned
of the brush of a
the
yellow
sky, aiid
31
many-coloured fioures
All
of
women and
children.
were in constant
movement and
cliattering loudly.
We
The
air
The
villao-e consists
was oppressively
hot,
and
dirt
was every-
where.
aside
My
with
guide
loud
rode in front,
exclamations.
;
pushing people
They
to
submitted
is
quietly to
being hustled
ao-ain
" Kith
kin
least
kind."
throuii-li
Then,
crossing;
the
river,
we rode
as far as
and
down
and
some encampto
ments
Gabes.
close by,
CHAPTER
From Gabes
Crouched
in a
IV
to the
Matmata Mountains
me
writing by the
could hear
my
horse
;
munching,
as
farther
away dogs
were barking.
my
doorway
my
ear the
sound of human
for
in
these
regions
all
as in a fairy
As
opened
my window
on the
at
the Hotel dc
it
17th October,
was
half-dark, but
could distinguish a
little
way
was
l)y its
footway.
It
Hamed,
>
ti
55 Ph
W S
o CC
fe
O
^ 3
OD
little
later
arrived
my
brown
steed,
My
small travelling
kit,
photographic ap})aratus,
horse.
The
slung on
my own
I
should
on a festive
and
w^e started,
is
somewhat
flat
we followed
the road.
To our
right,
towards the
low.
On
showed us
a dark forest.
The
villages
by the
river
the
risino;
left
On
esparto
the
road
we met
tiny
little
groups of natives
all
donkeys,
laden
with
Their
houses
came from
sell
this,
product in
summer
season.
Now
and
asfain
we
also
of
donkeys carrying
light loads of
warmed
left
us at this early
in a southerly
we turned
to the
36
CAVE DWELLERS
wound along
slightly
undLdating ground.
we heard
north-west
erected
Ijy
On
of
a hill to the
we
spied
the
(:anip
Kas
el
Wad,
Once and
again
we indulged
short stretches,
when
muddy
or
too winding.
olive tree
or
if it
a
in
little
We
in
were overtaken
a white sticking
])y a
head and
"
from Hadeij on
wiry pony.
He was
us.
His
we only once
met any
people,
we reached the
oasis of El
Hamdu
old
man
tlie
)n
the border of
oasis
we watered our
horses
at a fountain surrounded
by palms.
Women
out.
peeped
we could make
37
on,
oLii-
wc
left,
bouts.
On
drawn up
in
long
and
smoke couhl be
From an encampment on
the
If ^.. ir^f-
rLOlT(;niNG-fiABES.
stiffly,
like
statues,
and
river bed
rough ground
sun burnt so
horses
in
wc
the
destination
whilst
the
were dulled.
we again met
lathii
38
CAVE DWELLERS
without a
only in
a
by
a strap.
He wore
and carried
told nie he
hand
banner on a
pole.
Amar
villages
near Gal)s.
Of Marabouts there
is
no
lack.
where he had
l)een
l)egging for
money which he
carried
The banner he
a
everyone
holy
man was
comino-.
I
kissed
my
me good
is
luck on
my
journey.
luck
wished good
I
bought
my
We now
hills,
rode
some
distance
in the
amongst small
foreground of the
mountains
islands on
coast-line.
On some
A mar.
less
places
it
le\L'l
about the
that
is
dry bushes.
say, it
the
arable
if
to
would be cultivated
rain
We
39
Tlie Ijread,
1
butter,
all
enjoy, but
alone the
pome-
we
women
in
l)liie
dresses
an old
man
driving half a
bracelets
of camels.
and
anklets.
past.
They glanced
negress
only,
and trudged
l)ehind,
who lagged
81ie
tried
to
attract
our attention.
now
dry,
In
little
now
were
soil
planted
clumps
of
and
olive trees,
the
them
to form
dams.
On an
when watch
ascended
until
is
We
saddle,
in
I
hii>her
mountains,
suddenly,
turned
in
my
the distance.
We
were at that
to
moment
at the
highest point
we were
At
and occasionally
rising smoke.
in
and
Hamed
said
little
later w^e
ranean town.
40
1
CAVE DWELLERS
halted tiljruptly on .seeing below
me
a valley
many
trees.
On
the
The valley
itself Avas
by a great
shafts,
number
" Is
of neglected
and long-disused
olives,
but
palms,
?
and
figs.
that Hadeij
"
asked.
Hamed
nodded,
and
It
o'clock,
and we continued
bayed at us
in a
most dismal
its
fashion,
and from
companions joined
of a
deep pit
witli
perpendicular sides
that
had
Down
a
at the
resting.
Round
bins
hearth were
of
a
lar<Te
made
rushes,
and amongst
and
children
these
few fowls.
Some women
my
horse, stared
me
for
into recesses
in the walls.
Hamed now
suggested that
1
.should not
remain
41
path
hillside,
and
terminated in
led to a long
This evidently
underground
which
had just
On
ground were
a few palms
;
a group of men,
said,
was
old
his
therefore
drew
rein.
An
greybeard
rose
and
strode
forward,
the
offering
hand and
l)idding
me
welcome,
other
men
They were
fine
specimens
noses
one
saw
at
once
that
they
were
From an open
which are
all
of similar construcI
tion
to
that
in
already
mentioned.
caves,
was allotted
(piarters
one of the
wooden
<><'ito
on
passage,
height.
for
the
rocks,
little
over a man's
On
horses,
the
covered
way ending
in
an
open
42
CAVE DWELLERS
X"
feet this
high
court
in
width.
From
vaulted roofs.
In the undero-round ouest-chamber
I
stretched
table
and some
European
guests.
The_Khalifa
is rich,
very
rich, so that
it
though
visitor.
is
He
me
with
pride
that
(general
my
long ride
the yard
was
quite dark in
my
room.
a
The
flies
me,
and
had quite
refreshing
in
passages.
little
;
later
the
light
streamed
through
my
it
door
a.
and
for
moment
It
the
newcomer
was
tlic
Klialifa
Hamed
of the
and several
house.
I
otlier
persons,
expressed
my
compliments.
Cotiee
FROM
(lAHES
43
guuLiped
themselves
me on
the
tioor,
with
the
exception of the
Khulifa
The contents of
my
in-
underwent careful
vestigation.
But
could
not
idle
afibrd to sit
and
the
time
away,
so
went out
me.
I
to look about
Throuoh Hamed
expressed
my
desire
in-
to
examine
of a
the
terior
dwelling,
should
;
see
thing
but several
passed
the
times we
square
the
a
si
hills,
as also
entranc't's
houses, without
anyone niakiug
on to us to
last
(
enter.
I
At
invited.
we
)n
was
that
the whole
it
much resembled
inhabited
from
which we
came,
and was
bv
Jew and
The
yard
was
dirty
cooking
utensils
lay
44
CAVE DWELLERS
about,
scattered
intermingled
with
few
rush
A
both
woman,
old,
wrinkled,
and
tattooed,
and
me
I
to see.
Jew's wife.
;
His
but as
and bare
Already
that
I
began to
feel
was
I
Ijeing
made
a fool of
see, as
lived.
Fortunately
had
later a
splendid op})or-
Accom^janied
l)y
I
could peer
down
into the
palm and
children.
1
by dogs
and inquisitive
My
(|ueiitlv.
camera
iiad
with
it
fre-
As
a great
open square,
l)eautified
with palms, at
men and
l)oys
side to side.
They had
and
which fluttered as
45
With
Ioiiq; l)all
sticks, l)ent at
struck at a soft
some-
times in the
It
air,
was
so
lieautiful
figures,
l>rowii
straight
and suppk\
features
light eyes,
skins,
regular
and
bright
'"^:?iv^.-
siea.v
*'ti^ ^^_.
' <;-v
*..
t'-i
''!S^~
-~
"'S)*
CAVES IN MATMATA.
reminding
me
that
thus
must
the
Greek
and
Roman
l)oys
a pause, until
see,
for
twilight
is
unknown
46
CAVE DWELLERS
I
returned to
my
cave,
nntil
lit
cigarettes
and waited
served.
Five figures
appeared,
each
table
dish
me,
me.
and a
beside
The
made
and, finally,
l)arley meal,
this
last
was of
knife
had with
me
but a spoon,
that
treasure to
European
in
47
llamcd stood by
it
my
side,
tilled
my
glass
wlienever
served
the
dinner.
On
him
requested
me
at dinner.
With
a graceful motion
his
bowed
head and
begged
me Hamed On
the
to excuse him.
informed
me
that
honoured
guests
somewhat
white
me
whilst
ate.
me
at
first,
but
one soon
o-ets
thino;.
I
;
Hamed
it
constantly pressed
me
to eat.
to
thought
but
dis-
could
be of no
consequence
him
For when
had concluded
my
meal,
it
was
Mansur and
remains.
left
were then put back into the dishes, and these were
carried into
the
so,
men
gathered
round them
their lips
I
and
fingers.
peeped
in
48
CAVE DWELLERS
mat on which they were
in phice of
the rush
seated.
Fingers
were used
spoons or forks.
satisfied.
it
At
hist
they were
l)ut
the end
I
where the
I
heard a strange
humming
noise,
as of far-off explosions.
After a
while the
me
to he present at the
Mohammed's
wedding to a second
that the sounds
I
and
then understood
hum
of
many
voices
and of gunshots.
rose
in
The moon
the
vault
of heaven,
and
side
by
From above,
the
moonhght shone on
appearance of
as
the
wliite
spectres.
thougli
moulded half
and half
left
in dazzlins white.
Up
were
silent,
These
men
of the
Matmata mountains
they sat
of me, where no
liicrli
penetrated, as the
moon
rose
oil
her course.
51
On
we seated
ourselves,
Hamed
staiidino;
behind
we
carried
on our conversation.
Groups of men
continued
arriving
and beside us
square was
they
to
the
sat
full
on the
level
Ijanks.
1
on
the
ground,
dis-
women,
sombre garments;
lantern
was
now
lit
and
its
placed
un
the
ground near
my
it
feet.
I
xVt
first
light confused
One
a
of the Khalifa's
relative
and an
elderly
to
space
He
a dance to the
sound
drum and
a clarionet.
us,
they waved
then
the
drum and
women
52
CAVE DWELLERS
The Khalifa
their heads
again.
The negroes
bent
a coin
followed his
example
Suddenly
it
recommenced, and
my
sense of
was
ai>ain
drum was
svvuno; over
mv
head.
women came
a strancje
cluckiniij
sound
as of
the
lu, lu,
gun was
fired.
The
flash
up the rows of
again.
women.
It
firino;
"
cry, the
more shots
followed.
Then
festive
it
struck
me
1
that
also
would join
in
the
demonstration, so
revolver,
told
Hamed
to
l)ring
me my
the
air,
and
chambers into
The women
joy.
Drums and
"
1
am much
53
circle of
your
my
hand
in
token of
my
gratitude.
May
" "
Thanks
for
your good
a strange
wishes,"
he
replied.
and distant
one for
land.
You
I
are
my
friend
and
my
l)rother,
whom
am
mountains.
You
anywhere you
When
came
I
;
treat
me
as
you would
a l)rother
;
was told so
l)y
the
Khalifa of Gabes
but
all
the
I
of the
Matmata.
But now
l)y
know
it.
my
is
side, as
hung by
I
my
saddle
it it
when you
Now
realise that
so long
sign, therefore,
a of
my
respect
I
for
my
But
to
brother,
present
place
it,
you with
in
my
weapon.
before
it
me
salute with
after the
manner
of your countryI
derive at
of
celebration
again
my
revolver.
54
CAVE DWELLERS
Then arose from the women
a high-pitched
liy
and
yii,"
followed
some musket
Bowing
to
the Khalifa
})resented
his hand,
him with
it
the revolver.
He
gave
lips.
me
Tliis
bringing
seal
afterwards to his
friendship.
was the
of our
"Would you
or
like
the
women
-
would
singers
"
asked
the
Khaliftx.
"
As you
will,
;
brother
let it
go on as arranged before
my
my
deciding
I
deny that
was
women
sing.
They
sat before
me
could
I
not
distinguish
told, sat the
their features.
first
Amongst them,
was
is
and
still
pretty,
rival
or
perhaps
it
may
seem
to
her (piite
natural,
someone
to help
which
is
The Khalifa
laid
hand on
my
shoulder to
55
me
tlicat
tlie
performance
was
about
to
]n
somewhat
drawlinii;
up
"Yu, yu."
it
Hamed
" This
told
me
lowers
perhaps
on
his
from
Paris.
The
red.
pistol
hung
saddle
his
horse
see.
was
The
He
over
sat straight
palm on
his
horse,
right
the
steep
hillside.
"
Now
with us as a brother.
Yes, like
the
Bey
himself,
by the
side of Sid
Fatushe, our
old Khalifa.
gift,
He
of greater value
us,
we
on
lier
find
him
a wife.
of the
;
beautiful
with
henna
me
which
hour, improvising
my
praises, giving
honour
56
CAVE DWELLERS
my
friend
and guide,
Ilamed and
his horse.
At
last
the
thanked the
my
sincere
a nmlatto.
Amongst
the
Middle Ages.
slnill
in
verse,
against
the
women,
since they
tliey
liad
l)ut,
whom
knew,
they
whom
saw
He
abused them
in
lano-uasrc
ftir
from decorous,
laughter from
the
;
in
half-stiHed
self-
settled
only
his
them
;
rise
to
wrap
about him
There were
present.
many
aside.
Later, several
fell
asleen
their
When
his
song
57
off for
liave
sung
who
did
their
duty
They
;
me
the
man had
never mounted
a liorse).
When
when marchino-
to 1)attle.
He and
fashion for
the
women
time.
some
for
No doubt
was
the
women
carried
the
day,
the
negro
finally
shoved back
upon the
spectators,
he vanished in the
men
tripping time of
drum and
clarionet,
and towards
women
and a good
liarvest.
and paid
her
life;
of the hunter
who bewitched
life
;
a lion with
;
his flute,
of a little girl
;
of
love
of charmino; cavaliers
of the Khalifa
and,
finally, of
58
CAVE DWELLERS
so
far
l)ri(legroom,
sliglitly
as
coiikl
gather,
and very
of the bride.
feast
The wedding
tlie
was to
On
During
Mohammed,
the
bridegroom, was
or his father's
own
He must remain
concealed
at
amongst his
the rejoicings,
At
night.
hast
the
Khalifa
rose
ways
expressed
wish
to
leave
next
morning,
a
my
plans, to take
two
number
my way
back to
Gabes.
arranged,
retired
to
rest.
I
As
passed
horse
patted
my
I
mv
friends o-ood-nioiit.
was
the
Matmata mountains
as
should in
my own
bed
at home.
CHAPTER V
Return to Gabes
Hamed woke me
at sunrise.
my
The
been
led
horses
had
from
out
their
stable.
underoround
Outside the
I
dwellino;
met the
devotions as he
still
grasped
liis
rosary.
hand
to
take
leave
biddino;
till
me
to-
"Farewell
morrow evenmo-.
As we rode over
the
it
"*^^" ^^'
'
hill,
rider
galloped
who was
I
to
lamed
6o
CAVE DWELLERS
There are no springs or wells
in these regions
;
water, therefore,
is
By one
of these was a
woman
her pitcher.
rising sun
gleamed on Belkas-
and the
silver-inlaid
gun which
tlie
palm
woman
saw she
;
at the cistern.
so I
That
is
Mansur's wife
his
Belkassim.
Happy
Matmata
When we
and
like
vale I turned in
my
saddle
I
she
still
stood there,
in the distance
below
saw her
face indistinctly,
wrappings.
She remained
us
;
on her
came
same
spot.
falling, as
The valley
it is
The
palm and
and
ditches.
Just
as
we passed the
last
RETURN TO GABES
before
eliiiibiiig
6i
the
hill,
Ijeeu
watching
it
us.
dawned on
my mind
I
was right
stretching
for,
by standing
I
my
stirrups
and
my
neck,
and had
possiljly
so violent
we were obliged
to turn
assist him.
The
fearing to
but
pleasant be-
We
their
and ready
to
moment we remounted.
boy appeared and
the
rate
called
Fortunately a
the dogs
I
off.
man and
Believing
man
to
be their owner,
ordered
I
Hamed
to
would report
who
possessed nothing
of the dwelling
not
even a
The proprietor
was absent.
Then
greet
him
from
us
62
CAVE DWELLERS
have the
Lvlialifa after
him."
fold of
my
climbed the mountain in a zigzag course, by dithcult paths over loose stones.
saw
his
my
head,
EXCAVATED STABLE.
whilst
From
and
to a
the
summit
showed
like spots
on a panther's
to the
skin.
away
this
was
the sea.
RETURN TO GABES
down
the
63
long valley
into
u})
which
we descended.
Now
flew
started
in
We
Hamed
singing,
we went
on every
side.
girls,
who
shyly at us
The
suddenly away
She
the flock of
he
money
if
she would
come
to
him.
But
no, she
w^as
and
two other
each
I
little
(jtlier,
ones.
in
These pressed
their
nervously against
thin
blue
oflered
them some
coppers.
64
CAVE DWELLERS
me
flight.
We
ino-
Dogs
barked, under an olive tree stood a donkey munchstraw, and w^e perceived
some of the
familiar
brown surroundings.
In
the
distance their
ornaments glittered
them.
fear.
We
I
unpacked
my
camera and
girls
tried
to
take
their
portraits,
but these
to
so restless
that
it is difficult
still.
There
who came
a cave
at the
Hadeij
camera.
An
herself,
old
tripping up to offer
having.
daughters,
in
driving a restive
this I
But
saw plainly
RETURN TO GABES
was not to
be, for slie
65
and
had
to be satisfied.
The population
be remem-
for
about
broad river
now drv
This
difficulty
keeping
their
footino'
on the
stony l)ottom.
On
our
halt, so
slio-ht
rise
guide
bade
us
BEUBEU WOMAN
(IF
THE VILLAGE OF
we drew
rein
jui.lig.
could
When we
towards
people,
us.
valley,
we saw some
white
burnouses comins;
who came
me welcome
his
brown-
In time,
our party.
5
66
CAVE DWELLERS
Dogs barked, sombre
clad females with peaked
and
liid
mothers and
their lofty
crowns towards
A CAVE INTEHIOK.
(From a
sketch by
Knud
Gamhorrj).
fig
air of
as
we made our
The
village
like
entry.
contains
those
of
some
Hadcij,
fifty
underground
about
five
dwellings
and
RETURN TO GABES
hundred inhabitants.
67
to the Sheikh's
The approach
in.
From
the
hiuhest
from the
slope,
level.
palm
On
My
Hamed had
wished to see
me
ground chamber.
In the courtyard a camel stood chewing the cud.
It
was pushed
our way,
woven
In the caves
eyes
found
it
my
had
l)een
dazzled
by the
daylight
outside.
all
were overfriendly
;
one
off'ered
me
dates,
68
CAVE DWELLERS
The children
flocked about
me
without
fear,
pulling roguishly at
my
Inirnous.
Hamed and the other men had remained outside. Hamed was very proud of having obtained permission for me to see the cave. Usually,
During
visit,
my
he
said,
But
fancy
my
good
much
On
soft
our
way
to
the cave
we had passed
the
Here
I
stretched myself on
costly
carpets
whilst
ate
my
meal
my
escort
As
wished to learn
all
particulars concerning
me
clothes
and ornaments
of those
quantities.
To the
great
amusement
present,
Belkassim was
Afterwards,
photographed him
Sheikh and his
same
way by
We now
RETURN TO GABES
and rough pebbles.
69
We
the
shepherds
in
in
the
shade of dwelt
the
ruins.
days
it
the
Beni Aissa
on these
for the
heights, but
day
to
descend to
the
so,
when more
to the
peaceful times
moved down
wound
a
of the valley.
This
valley
so
round
the
foot
of
liad
the
mountain,
pictures(|ue
for
couple
of hours
we
last
stiff
the
lost
ruins to
our right.
At
a
we
sight
of
them,
and
then
l)cgan
ascent
finally,
we
from
under our
horses'
feet.
Hamed
his
thought
follow
horse
him
zags,
the
to
summit.
recover
whilst
Here we
l)reath
w^aited
few moments
to
and
the
give
lovely
time
the
loiterer,
enjoying
view over
the
Matmata
mountain peaks
and
vales.
into
valley,
tlien
yo
CAVE DWELLERS
up another mountain
side,
toiled
afterwards riding
one of the
heights.
eyries
on the top
of
the
Matmata
On
the horizon
we could
disting-uish
the low
it,
the
of
it
Farther
east
lay
the
mountain
chain
Jebel
line,
and between
partly
and us stretched a
plain,
concealed
by the adjacent
hilly ground,
in unclulatino; lines.
Below
to the north,
was
a deep valley.
discovered
the
accidentally
on
stones.
I
and
be
later
carved
by pious
the
friends,
in
memory
last
of
the
the
dead, on
deceased.
spot
met
us.
In the
distance
castle
it
re-
German
usual
of
the
Middle
attached
Ages,
with
the
mass
of
of houses
pile
thereto.
The summit
by
a
the
of
of
dwellings
was crowned
like
l)lack
couple
against
camels,
sky.
:
showing
silliouettes
the
On
the
flat
.s2)ecks
were moving
these were
women.
to
meet
and
conduct
me
RETURN TO GABES
into the town, through steej) narrow alleys.
yt
The
houses
were
all
built
of
uncut stone,
of
and not
was
whitewashed.
irregular.
little
The
style
building
most
precipitous, the
dwellings
extraordinarily
varied
in
height
and appearance.
with
various
bleating
Their
courtyards
goats,
were
a
crowded
camels,
all
sheep and
chattels,
few
household
braziers,
and
manner
roofs,
of dirt.
flat
women and children stood watching Of men there were not many at home
season
at
this
they are
probably
mostly
guarding
and
in
the
the
north
we
could
see,
over
Tliis
the
mountain
Zaraua
;
ridg;e,
a villaoje on a heio;ht.
was
Tamezred.
way towards
He
tried to slip
;
ofl"
about half-way
likely
as
it
most
Belkassim
him
sound thrashino-
;ind forced
him
to
the
bridle-road from
When we
reached
at
village
72
CAVE DWELLERS
summit,
I
the
dismissed
us.
the
lad,
who
quickly
vanished behind
No one came
near
the
to
meet us
until,
when
quite
town,
young man
at
last
appeared,
Sheikh who, he
said,
was absent.
told
Both
Hamed and
Belkassim
me
they
the
proper distance
to me.
from
town,
tried to assert
independence of French
brave
fellows
fell
rule,
and many of
amono; the
they
the
fio-htino;
here
mountains.
From
that
time,
therefore,
do
;
How-
run counter
but
to
my
1
riglit
my
liosts
were,
say the
unwilling.
walked
up a path which
the
precipitous
led
slo])e
towards the
lay
cemetery.
On
the
mound
rested,
laid
Here
defenders
of
their
fatherland,
From
women
RETURN TO GABES
drew water.
tlieir
73
j^itchers
Tliey
oarried
the
huge
on
baeks,
turiiL'd
bound
to their foreheads
face,
by a toweL
it
Each
away her
or concealed
in
her
The men
;
stood, like
We
village,
dust,
The
I
it,
and pro-
claimed
my amazement
me
such a room.
it
was impossible
to procure
Knowing
his
head
in
men were
Inisy
Our horses
still
stood
and again
had to do
they were
battle for
my
74
CAVE DWELLERS
In the meantime I walked
down
the mountain
side, partly
my
just set as
seated myself on a
me
in the
gathering darkness
it
showed
I
On
the
terraces outside
in their
figures
engaged
evening orisons.
They bowed
frequently and kissed the ground, and then lay prostrate for
in prayer.
I
hammering
in of the tent
pegs,
as also voices in
it
and
in the
to scare jackals
and deter
down
the
hill
by
at to
As he
he
confided
me
that
Belkassim had
managed
order.
was now
I
in
The
latter
was not a
Frenchman, but
friend of
This,
tlie
it
Zarauar,
several
for,
when
tov^-n,
men came
me
another
I
accepted.
also
RETURN TO GABES
gniiited
tent.
75
the
pcrmiasioii
they asked
to
strike
tlic
The dwelling
someone practised
lay
Ijits
The
walls
hung a quantity of
and
cooking-pots.
Lighting a candle
stood
it
on a plank,
my
rugs with
my
saddle under
my
did
it
Whilst
I ate,
a knot of people
I
chatted
good
cioarettes.
The public
carried out,
retired
I
when
and
That
being done
to sleep.
I rolled
myself in
my
When
was
Our
horses,
which stood
dently disturbed.
Then
breathing near
my
door,
after a
Springing up
the door.
There,
with
its
head to
my
nose and
76
Ijreathiiig in
CAVE DWELLERS
my
face, stood a
camel
and behind
it
another.
Thank goodness,
Before
sunrise
it
we
riding
in
the cool
to Tamezred.
By
we
we
all
;
along
a mile.
view extended
were grazing,
for
no rain had
fallen
on the mountains.
and invited
me
to the guest-chamber
a stuffy room
I
From thence
landscape.
over-
The
inliabitants
some
Ije
wdtli a
low
from end
77
RETURN TO GABES
In one enclosure stood a fine bull, in anotlicr
I
79
dis-
The guns
in-
been
saw
fire-
them
often
handy.
In the
rolled
ouest
room
camel's
hair
tent huno-,
up under the
roof.
When
the
men wander
is
hundred
can
souls.
;
Of
they
these
men
be armed
in
mostly fight on
foot,
as
mountains
there are
in
hundred
cows, as
far
When
women go
the rain
off"
the
of the
;
they
live in tents,
8o
CAVE DWELLERS
in
remain
the villages to
guard the
women and
children.
It is not the people of
and Tujud.
Hadeij, in the
Matmata moun-
Wad
Halluf.
The
village of
Tamezred
is
cupolas.
Only one of
is
Hadj Yussuf,
sunshine
it
;
in the
the
is
the rocks.
On
great
heio-ht
outside
the
villao;e
is
raised
surveyor's
landmark,
visil)le
for
miles,
and
mata mountains.
raised
by a French
Having
now
attained
the
most westerly
in-
real
villages,
the largest.
men
RETURN TO GABES
well
this
l)uilt
8i
of imliewii stone.
They
told
me
that
It dates
least so
for
it.
may
])e
in
rough
Ijaskets,
the fact of
its
l)eing
Later
l)e
in
the
said
to
the
burial-place
female
Marabout.
This
lay,
completely ruined,
on
I
ridge
between two
wanted
my
guides requested
me
is
not to do
From
them
this point
Hadeij.
glimpse,
my
attendants go on a
in,
little
in
advance and
sneaked
first
tying up
my
horse outside.
The
room was
In the centre
On
were
the
ground,
6
alone;
the
whitewashed
walls,
82
CAVE DWELLERS
pots,
earthem
they
such
as
are used
were
apparently
sooty
lines,
and figures
me
these ornaments in Just as I was copying Belkassim stepped in. sketch-book, Hamed and
my
Hamed
desired
me
to put on
my
burnous and
I left, so
;
my
head before
I
that
had entered
and
should put some coins Belkassim suggested that I on the wooden frame, and into a bag that hung offerings of pilgnms, which was provided for the expenses of illuminating the aiven to defray the often celebrated, Marabout's tomb at the festivals I in or near the tomb. he said, l;)y the women
;
did as he desired. the tomb, were dug Outside, in the vicinity of which I crept. underground chambers, into
low
some broken, a few Scattered within was pottery, were They had been used, and there
pieces entire.
also traces of a
fireplace
and smoke
stains
on the
above-mentioned
festivals.
murmured Both Belkassim and Hamed when they had finished at the grave, and
tions
a few prayers
their devo-
carefully
single
sight,
so he
RETURN TO GABES
S3
We
liard chalk
and
clay, cultivated in
Meanwhile we were
in
as it
was by the
either
always found on
On
a slope
was a
little
it
smoke was
rising.
By
I
began to
how much
brushwood must,
in course of time,
sumed
in these limekilns,
Matmata do
not
the
Gabes.
Hadeij.
In other respects
it
is
exactly similar to
Knowing
that the
women
decided
The cave
to
which
my
coming
in
from
84
CAVE DWELLERS
Fortunately,
Mansur
for tlic
feast
accompany mc on
materially
assisted
my way
me
in
back to
Hadeij.
He
making
my many
them
neither
him, as
They
had to
seller's
throw the
hands.
in
repeatedly back
I
on the
gala burnous,
on each occasion
with a decided
before
command
that
it
my
the
reduced to
asked.
little
Each
and
of
a
haggling was
I
air
connoisseur
to
arrive
at
it
was
far
too
dear.
So again
was returned
aside
to the owner,
who
was
at once pushed
by other vendors.
vied with each other in
Belkassim and
shouts of abuse.
Hamed
when
what
a blessed calm
was ended.
without
lives
The simplest
these
folk
sale
cannot
take
place
if
their
depended on
RETURN TO GABKS
Not having allowed myself
i-ather risen
85
to be cheated, 1
had
had seemed to
gnides, and
feel
my
who
now
and
(juiet
beside me,
watching
me
eat.
I
After dinner
Ijut
villae^e,
soon
perceived
much
man-
ceuvres in Europe,
when they
arc
shown everything
I
all
the more
as
all
on the
same
lines
had already
examined
Just as
we were about
us.
to
mount our
horses, a
man approached
hand.
I
he dragged himself to
my
horse
and kissed
my
dosf
He
came
to entreat
me
Having
told
I
him that
spurred
would be
but
lenient,
my
my
all satisfy
rushed to
my
side
and clung
to
my
clothing.
my
86
CAVE DWELLERS
I
punishment.
Therefore
I
he
and
the
would entirely
glanced
down
;
at the culprit,
out lauohiiio;
I
he looked so ridiculous.
a
Never do
debased countenance.
I
preserved
silence,
my
to
keep
my
hand to take
it
leave.
to his
mouth, and
heard him
callino-
down
upon me.
In
an open
square,
planted with
palms,
the
which
of a
iiuno'
to the blows
curved knife.
girl,
even a young
worked
in the tree-tops
climb-
down
Below,
the rough
straight
stems.
men and
which
women
donkeys.
was
difficult to tear
idyll,
hurried up
my
RETURN TO GABES
Maiisur
li;ul
87
much
ditiiculty in
keeping up with
a horse.
then another,
l)ehind.
thus
l)eino-
left
farther
and farther
We
was
were obliged at
us,
him
to rejoin
though
time
was
passing,
and
sunset
near.
little
we found,
at the
bottom of the
alone, feedino; on
if left
some straw.
make
away with
It
w^e
in the square
my
up
rose
and
also
my
hand.
The Khalifa
thanked him
"
see
am
glad
that you
;
are
satisfied
glad
to
will
stay with
88
CAVE DWELLERS
they only express
the
literally,
kindly feeling of
After
had dined
in
my
cave
sallied
out
As
man
sit
to be inconveniI
enced by having to
I
on a chair because
did
so,
suogested that
we should
too;ether amon2;st
To
this he agreed.
men from
tightly
the
surrounding
country
these
sat
and myself
sat together in a
looking on.
Now
I
as far as
It
was hard
to keep awake.
Belkassim's
it
little
I
son
nestled
up
to
me, and, as
grew
chilly,
wrapped
asleep.
my
ness
it,
than
Hamed
beside
me, wrapped
his
burnous.
let
him
RETURN TO GABES
repose, but from that
89
moment
conversation betwixt
myself and
my
foreign surroundings
was limited
to
In
invited
the
course
to
of
the
afternoon
the
l)c
Khalifa
me
present at
later.
promised to return.
Next morning
left
tlie
Hadeij
took leave of
Khalifa,
with
many
you soon
have
rain,
that
May may
Just
as
we reached the
to follow
first
height,
Mansur,
me
to Gabes, pointed
how
liofhtnino- flashed
and
good wish.
Matmata mountains."
plain,
the rain
our
faces.
A moment
cult for
after,
it
was
diffi-
and he begged us to
ride
on without waitino;
for him.
;
Once
w^e
the
sheep were
go
CAVE DWELLERS
We
I
when
;
now
However our
at
started
gallop,
pushing
quickly
flying
through
rain
ears,
I
and
till,
mud
up to
my
was
Hamdu
gleamed through
the oasis the
we could reach
bushes
I
had to be
and
crossed.
tamarisk
l)ut
oleander
we found
easily,
urged
my
horse fortill
fell,
whetting
me
to
the
to turn
side,
swept us to the
and
gave up the
my
Then
saw
his
horse,
my
I
purchases,
plunging
about in the swirling stream, and splashing the water in every direction.
])ack.
We
way
up,
and
out success.
herd of
little,
walked along
RETURN TO GABES
the l)anks
;
91
tliey
we heard the
dis-
At
l)road,
last,
at
we succeeded
crossing without
mishap,
We
where we waited
The
down
incessantly,
we
"
To the
left
to the left
his
"
we shouted
Init
we could hear
rain-
the El
fall.
Hamdu
it
folk crvinii-
and, until
dates.
over, water
What
good
"
92
CAVE DWELLERS
palms, the chief source of
All over the
is
the same.
countryman of mine,
at
his
town
one
in Jutland,
who,
sitting
dinner-table
day,
complained
not
taken pity on
a little rain
in-
them
suddenly pelted
at
He
gone
once jumped
now
all
my
peat
is
it it
so
was
late in the
The
years,
river
for
many
Luckily, neither
my
sketches nor
my
purchases
had
suffered.
CH APTER VI
Of the Matmata Mountains and their
Inhabitants
the
northern spur
more
or less the
bend of the
coast.
itself
and
it
is
who
are indeed
great
and customsT^j
In the mountains Ghurian and
Jefren, to the
They
recall
and
to labour.
There-
intellectual
and
not
93
have
been
able
to
always with
equal
94
success.
all
CAVE DWELLERS
For example, in the Jebel Jefren originated
disturbances wliicli
the
North
of
Jebel
Jefren
is
Jebel
Nefusa,
also
whom
the
speak a dialect
Tuareg.
resembling
greater
the
language
of
of
The
to
proportion
of
these are
supposed
be
the
descendants
the Libyans,
who connuered
last,
came
also
It is
the custom
among some
for a
in
common with
that their
young women,
was a Berber,
of the race
sway.
At any
In his case,
as
in
that of so
many
Berbers
of
into the
mighty current
fanatical
may
Though
indeed,
like
their
kindred
race
the
Mohammedans
(perhaps
many
influence
at
95
They
and they
are
sect,
and
un-
ritual. _~27
/Not
" Jebel
caves,
Ghurian
meaning
these
literally
"the Mountain
became
;
of
Caves."
Before
cave
altars
dwellers
to
Mohammedans, they
according
to
raised
God
and,
travellers,
be found
everywhere
in
these
in Algeria, in
and Tunisia
probable
that
is
times
the
Berber
Matmata.
Books written
to
l)e
in
;
found here
so far as
we know (manuscripts
ascertained
is
that
the
in
lansjuao-e
of Southern
Tunisia
still
spoken
and Duirat
in
also
part
of
Uroiiamma.
From
Matmata mountains.
96
CAVE DWELLERS
closely
in
happy
and ready
An
assembly
known
as
the
tribal
questions,
is
based
is
even more
As
aral)le
land
the
is
inhabitants
of
mountains
are
com-
paratively numerous,
that
men
buy
this
alike in
who
quit
and homes
for a time.
and earning
their bread
by
all
sorts of work,
etc.
When in 1881-1882
to find that
the French
many
MATMATA MOUNTAINS
(lulight
97
raid,
when they
They were
fell
eoncerued.
in
no,
weapon
hand they
feel
secure
from a
coiq^ de
main.
they, in their inaccessilde and
frontier,
even as
ftir
as
Rhadames.
They
when
he,
the
all
would be
left
with
monogamy
leads
is
usual
to
amongst them,
different
Ijut
my
ex|)erience
me
conclusion,
since
the
whom
wives.
came
in
contact had
gS
CAVE DWELLERS
abduction uf
times,
\_ Tlie
women was
nut
uncommon
in
earlier
when
ofl'
women
carefully
One custom
it
is
is
her nose
is
mild
and pleasant
should
she
misbehave she
I
may
be sure of being
sticks at Tatuin.
well punished.
As
in
took advantage of
to
my
stay
with
the
Khalifa of Hadcij
procure
life
they
common.
I
These inquiries
discretion, for I
had
to
greatest
would not
for the
them
that
I
a chance
I
By
degrees
picture
may
may have
MATMATA MOUNTAINS
been misumlerstood
observation.
99
my
exercises authority
Matmata
range.
He
is
is
a tribal sheikh.
The Khalifa
of age, and
Sasia.
has
By the first he has two sons, Amar and Mansur. By tlie second, one son, Mohammed. He
has probably daughters also
;
if so,
and
live at a distance,
Sheikh
Aisha,
Amar
the
first is
named
sons,
the
second
Meriam.
He
has
two
of " Adel
"
(notary)
named Uda,
and no
child.
Mohammed,
is
" Kateb
" (scribe) to
his
father's
secretary.
His
first
called
Hamed.
is
His
my
called
Mena
she
of the Uled
name
of that tribe.
lOO
CAVE DWELLERS
The age of the
Khalifa's sons
may
be on an
Of the children
is
of these
l^he
MANSUK.
together
bers of
memand of
tlie
their children,
relatives,
men who
Many
possess
homes of
and
their
own, and
cattle,
which they
him
to
his corn,
,ify<
olives, press
are
capaUe/1
<^he Khalifa
is
very
ri(;li.
lie
mills,
but
must be
the
exj^ended
infinity
in
of
people
whom
all
he protects^
his
His large
will
possessions
his
be
at
when he
dies,
amongst
sons,
who
present
give them,
olive
trees,
own
house
and
in
unless
they prefer to
continuel__living
fellowships
The
Khalifa's property
is
tree
banked about
may
lie
at its footj
^e
idea of
will
now examine
how
;
modated
thus
notwithstanding
patriarchal
life,
house-government
group has
its
and
community
portion,
of
each
little
own
however
'
.Vi.
'
CAVE DWELLERS
own
exclusive
use>|
("The
soil
in
tlie
valley of Hadeij
is
composed of
the
excavation
of
regular
well
shaped
chambers.
defend
discovery
by
and
afford
good protec-
and robbers,
uThe formation
extends over low
of the valley
hills
is
undulating, and
level
in
divided
by smooth
Seen
from
the
mountain, the
with faint
olive
whole looks
paths,
and
palm
/
trees
The plan of
as follows
From
the case
the side of a
hill,
solid
earth, leads an
underground path
be
long
is
or short, as
may
and
generally
dug
in
hill,
The
and smooth.
enters
From
the
ground
level
of
this
cave one
p,.i(h.
's \
fV~
-^
IS?
J(
If"
C^
^f-'Jtl.
ae
Section
ft-7i.
.
Section
r-;?.
;:^.M:^lSM$i%i^
I
T.IVFD.
I'LAX.
103
MATMATA MOUNTAINS
105
wine
Tliese
stores,
stables, or dweJling-places.
The
courtyards
measure,
as
rule,
between
The
though
These
and smaller.
doors.
The
In the court
is
common
of
a,
use
in
done
in one
is
Further, there
often
is
At the
filled
rush
baskets
circumstances,
such
as
threatened
danger,
In a cave chamber
closed, otherwise there
it
is
is
is
sufficient light.
io6
CAVE DWELLERS
From
olive
the
flat,
and palm
yard. Dwellino-s
I.
and
II.
are united,
and
is
]iave l)ut
one entrance.
to
the entrance
first
a cave passage,
court:
yard.
Here are
chambers
One
one
one containing
a tank, another
From
the
first
courtyard
This
the mothers of
these sons.
company with
spend the day with the rest of the family in courtyard No.
II.,
in
common.
live
As
far
as
could
ascertain,
no domestics
here.
This courtyard
for corn,
is
baskets
and with a
has two
his
fireplace.
Amar
wives
;
of his
and
Two chambers
MATAIATA MOUNTAINS
107
another to which
Mohammed's second
Moham-
med's
his
first wife,
Maiisur and
only wife.
Last of
I
all
each
woman had
her
Ranged on the
the centre of
were various
articles,
while
in
what appeared
to be
a low
This
is
are
generally
spread
on
this
the
inmates sleep
without undressingT}
Cfhe whitewashed
etc3,
'
Jn
saw some
frightful
bought
at
Gabes, corresponding in
all
respects to
we
find in
The
it
fowls, indeed,
IT.,
but
was evidently
io8
CAVE DWELLERS
to cattle,
forl)icl(]en
first
ynrd.
a long undergroniKl passage, provided with
for horses
;
By
side
recesses
III.
yard No.
ing
hall,
its
two
parallel
central
entire
row of
side
one
were
one of these
occupied.
;
They could
end a shaft
also be
is
utilised as corn
stores
to
tliis
dug
may
be poured down
it is
and
grain,
unloaded near
mouth
of the shaft.
tw^o
rooms,
during
my visit
a negro family,
who were
the
and
also
stabled
there.
was
MATMATA MOUNTAINS
Now we come
and VI.
to the
109
two other
dwellino-s
V.
;
the
as
the
little
farther
off
by the
Khalifti
and
his third
this
was
also
side.
One
and
one
l)y
fourth as a kitchen,
two others
as stores
for dates,
and the
last
as a
writino'-room.
Owing
a certain
to his ofticial
has
amount
ments.
These are
all
unknown
the
in Iladeij,
and
but
little,
believe,
in
it
in
whole of
villages
Southern
Berber
it
Tunisia.
Though
is
many
is
the
language
appears
spoken,
not in
in
Hadeij, where
of
to
be
forgotten
spite
the
natives
being Berbers.__J
are
far
from
by
his retainers.
He
also
owns
occasional
use, in
the
no
CAVE DWELLERS
of palms
and
olives,
when,
as
in
harvest
time,
the
trees
have to be
watched.
saw
in
the
Matmata mountains
To these
the outside.
observed steps
rrhe rooms
trical
;
in this
so
symmetlie
many
level as
it.
of
same
the
steps above
rooms
The approach
by means of
the courtyard.
The Sheikh
mill, erected in
of Beni
oil
its
saw the
mill,
is
which
is
worked
iii
ii
broad
by was erected
a primitive
found caves of
rather
different
description.
Before
the
door of the
caves
an
enclosure
was
this
stood
house,
CThis
in
style of buildino-
summer
cave,
where
cooler
than
in
the house
and,
again, should
retire
the
house be attacked,
entrance
they could
into the
\
cave, the
being easy to
defend.
L^'
all
caves probably
is
arises
that
there
not always
tlie
sufficient
space
the
mountains
to
for
many
the
large
chambers required
accommodate
number
;
of people.
The cave
is
The hedged-in
Near Tatuin
was
12
CAVE DWELLERS
In the mountains I discovered several of
the
same description,
in
Ijut
nninlial)ited
being occupied
olives
harvest time,
need
guarding.
At
Tujan
saw,
excavated
in
the
cliffs,
several ancient
caves with
^^
-ft
MEDININ.
of
them;
they
had
long
heen
abandoned
as
dwcllino;s.
Lastly, I
must touch
briefly on< a
mode
of ])nild-
Metamer
its
origin from
domed houses
by
MATMATA MOUNTAINS
side
ill
115
a eomplete
citadel
;
the
ground.^
In Southern Tunisia there
villages, such
are
numerous large
as
Hadeij, Lasheish,
as,
Ben
Aissa,
be-
sides
some
smaller,
which
in the valleys,
and
real houses
on the mountains^
LFinally, the
are found on
mountain
at Duirat.
The
villafi^es
They
stand, as a rule,
much resemble
those
Kabail in
Alo-eria,
or the ancient
French
CHAPTER
VII
had changed
my clothes,
l)e
when ushered
him came
serious that
in,
proved to
Mansur
following
so
Hamed,
I
very
wrong
but
Hamed,
observing
my
puzzled
expression,
wliispered to
me
me
sat
to the
wedding
After
on a chair,
Hamed showed some tact by placing himself behind me to serve as interpreter, for Mansur
while
understood
little
French.
wliicli
were
him
to
say, that if
day, he
would regard
it
as
proof of
;
my
I
friendship for
him and
for the
Matmata
that
should be treated
116
117
and
if I
many
years
should be welcome.
to see
me
Hamed
I
AT GABES.
bought
agri-
and spades,
which were
;
made under
and
its
my
eye,
one
and, lastly,
a collection of garments.
ii8
CAVE DWELLERS
noise
much
In
und
lively quarrelling,
though
it
did not
afternoon
took a carriage
with the
and
to
wished to
ol)tain
some
On
our return
we met
who
told us he
was
wedding
at Hadeij,
therefore in
entirely
on
himself.
He
advised
me
to take
with
1
me
same evening
bought a
The military
unmarried.
at
all
mess too'ether
that
for
is
them.
The
Battalion
lieutenants
of
the
4th
African
invited
Lio;ht
officers
me
to
We
and
amongst
my new
them
w^ere
immediatelv
119
was the
first,
hist,
time that
while
ill
to the toast of
"To
drink long
life
whom
fighting in
On
Hamed and
dawn
at
again
left
built
brown
six miles to
horse,
capable
of
pacing
between
five
it
and
At
first
wanted
restrained
it,
of Meiizel,
and
was
bitterly cold,
us.
When we
rode out of
the oasis the sun had risen, and cast our shadows in
tomb, built on a
poste
optiqua,
the
which
communication
with
1:20
CAVE DWELLERS
with a keen sense of enjoyment,
with
as,
we
followed
tlie
tracks that,
tlie
west.
There was
little
vegetation
IN
THE MOUNTAINS
ON
rise
we
back from
tlie
A
them
the palms of
the
bright waves.
Away
towards
the south
we could
121
Matmata mountains.
smoke
Here and
air.
tlierc
on the
phiin l)lue-grey
so
we
a walk, or rather
but on a long
is
summer journey
;
rarely used
to
walk
fast.
lie
expected
of a
die val
de la
is
plaine that
pace
When we
we
a third of the
way,
near
it is
From
this
was covered
l)uilt
the
surface
of the
-
earth,
forminjT;
the well.
either
be
up the
steps.
showed before
the north
it
our
left.
Towards
over
wdiicli
wound the
track.
122
CAVE DWELLERS
On
the
hill
the
soil
flat
had
difliculty in
wound
on either side of
This heap
west.
Hamed
one
informed
me
that
it
spot
many
years ago.
point of
magnificent
of a level, stony
it
soil.
Where
ended we saw
this
Hamma
oasis.
Beyond
to the left
therefore
to the south-west
ran a mountain
This
sea
is
ridge,
somewhat white
It
resembled the
it
when dead
had
away
in the
western
deep
l)lue tint,
flat
surface of the
Beyond
are
paler
l)lue
peaks,
and
beyond
123
of
far
distant
mountains.
Shott Fejej
is
the
Le
Scuil
A
cla}^
is
soil
is
is
and
dries
by
one
is
flat
surface
Not only
this
is
stiflino'
hot in
summer, and
Drummond Hay
me
the year, he, with only one servant and a guide, had
way from
Kebelli to
Though warmly
The way
clad, he
and
the cold.
and
means
asserted that
it
is
124
CAVE DWELLERS
always water
;
but this
a crust
not apparent, as
salt,
it
is
entirely covered
by
of
flows to
it
lowest
the
;
level
l)ut
when
various
the
wind blows,
sweeps
salt
water
this
in
directions
over the
crust
is
level
thus altered.
At times
there
may
be as
much water
girths.
in the shott as
would reach
to a horse's
The
crust
is
also
occasionally forced
up from
forms
rising,
These
little
mounds
like islands
on the sea
Imt, in consequence of
l)e
hills
visible
for
many
miles
around.
One
Malah
"
of these, the
largest, is
It is
el
height
now
filled
up.
It contained
found
which
is
125
traverse
tlie
sliotts.
leading
Some
of
l)e
The
traveller has to
as told of a
whole Egyptian
its
Step
l)y
step
must the
traveller
work
;
his
way
a
whilst
mirage
may
rise
to
tempt
and
deceive
him.
least
mistake, or the
all
is
over.
the
roads
over the
shotts
felled
are
palm
placed
;
at
distances
of
about
hundred
yards apart
luit
in places these,
;
by camel bones.
The Arabs
befallen
have
on these
known
to
prey.
shotts
is
home
of the date-palm.
l)est
sold at
the hun-
126
CAVE DWELLERS
sea,
near the
and the
air,
therefore, too
damp.
This
Many
the l)asin
of the
shotts they had discovered the Triton sea of Herodotus, believino; the river bed of
Wad
Malah
to be
Though
been proved,
conceived in
He
thought
it
sea.
]e
From
gained.
this
scheme
great
advantages were
frontier
to
would be
re
-
protected
natural
1)arrier.
The
created
soon be traversed
l)y
shipping,
And what
a chano;e
numbers.
FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA
further
investigation
in 127
1876.
Raudaire's
survey
had
not
lie
been
accurate.
indeed
but
proved,
so that
fifty miles,
named
Raudaire
defended
still
his project
withdrawn
its
support.
Lesseps
visited the
hundred
From
minds
past events
it
is
other
learned
authorities
geologists
before,
and
scientific
Adamson, and
had,
long
sharply
and declared
the
flats
now
filled
by the
shotts.
Indeed, Cosson
inland
dammed,
it
128
CAVE DWELLERS
fill
it
up
again, so
it
it
was highly
would be influenced to
that,
by admitting the
fertilise
the
of a
hundred and
Now
ing
the (juestion
of
is
closed,
more
the
company formed
j^^^'^^''^
1882
cle
by
^ct
creation
la
mer
The
old
the
wane
for
some years
will
will
important works
ing of his
title
life,
and history
his
him the
which
is
due
that
man."
CHAPTER
VIII
On
the
lies
The Khalifa
south,
delicious l)eneatli
that
these
were
the
origin of the
of
the
ancients,
for the
Romans
in
their
magni-
temple
halls.
sitting,
all
standing, or
talking.
men,
He
justice,
whom
I30
CAVE DWELLERS
woman and
child,
were a
w^as
speaking
in
subdued
peculiar
to
voice
and
with
the
striking
gestures
Orientals.
in.
in
constant motion,
rising
from every
and
His
fine figure
was
slight
his
and a
ally passed.
Now
fire
flashed
At
last it really
grew too
l)ad,
and what
had
one
of the
stick.
men punished
a
little,
the
crowd with a
remained
Some
seated,
retreated
others
calmly
until again
Our
of a side wino-.
131
baggage had
])eeii
we partook we
of the "
welcome
"
discussed
it.
my
jour-
ney and
my
motives in undertaking
child remained
unmoved
She was
her.
The
inquisitively at
me
his
the
man drew
hood over
his
hands under
Thus they
sat,
men
If
one or another
his judicial
so,
leaving
little
me
Whilst the
swarmed
in
and the
I
my
ears,
From
my
the mountains.
To the
right the
132
CAVE DWELLERS
Below them
perceived the
brown tops of
tents.
low mounds.
On
each of these
This
is
stone-strewn strand.
the
Among
peaked bundles.
and
air
men
a a;rave.
Only
palms, a man,
in the
prime of
life,
died of the
to
be buried.
When
hushed,
I
me was
No
strolled
off
to
the
villag-e,
the
rest
with a
133
were
still
before
tlie
but
lijirdly
my ears had grown accustomed Now and ai;ain one of the sons came
I
begged to be
left in
At
last
came the
funeral.
their shoulders a
bier,
over which
burnous.
The
liearers
some
fifty
them
as
men clad in white burnouses, and behind many women in dark dresses. From these
The
crowd
funeral,
noise near
me
subsided a
to
little
some of the
to join
wandered down
the
plain
the
The wailing
ears,
women came
distinctly to
I
my
and
group
saw a pair
of white
Now
like
and a death;
silence reigned
only
fiies
was
to be heard.
I
looked about
child
me
there
still
sat
the
man,
woman, and
The
bier
it
Around
134
CAVE DWELLERS
while the prayer for the dead was recited.
grief-stricken.
call
faces,
Who
or
could
tell
away another,
knew but
might be
!
his
own
turn to be
summoned
in
next morning
the
oasis.
He was
Now
Now
he
dead,
liis
wife
is all
alone,
Oh Oh
she grieves,
Ms
woe, oh woe,"
While
The
sounded
till
it
and
and
time.
lasted
some
little
laid
in
the ground
men
sitting
around
in
silence
and weeping,
louder
women resounded
men
;
When
rose
and
only a few
remaining to
fill
up the grave.
little
later the
women
alone were
left,
but
135
in the
on the ground,
oriainal
mob gathered around him. The women out there had meanwhile exchanged
last, after
At
Like a rag
it
and not
till
later,
it
when
the
first
subsided, would
be raised auain.
During
for
this interval a
I
me, so
retired to
my
room where
it
was de-
lightfully cooL
Up
ing
it,
yard to a room, and through that to another adjointhis last being very spacious.
built of
palm beams,
laid
and supported
in the centre
by a
pillar.
The walls
rusli
mat-
floor
In one corner
;
for a
couch
in another
window with an
overlooked
this
window was
136
CAVE DWELLERS
with a sliutter
wliicli
fitted
One
whilst
I
of the
ate.
Khalifa's
sons
kept
me company
had
next
After
Hamed and
had
the door
in
the
other
attendants
in the
and
the
shutter
closed,
and
lay
down
It
the
half darkness
for a
midon
day nap.
to
slee|3
dozed
off.
Hamed woke me
was a weddinosee
presently to
tell
me
I
that there
in the oasis,
and that
I
if
wished to
home
some
must
hasten.
So
of the sons
and dependI
and
into
hunied on
the street, trying to shake off the mournful impression, before joining in rejoicings.
On
the
way
met an Arab
wdio,
with a good
It
French accent,
said,
"Bon
jour, Monsieur."
was
who,
this
new
acquaintance, as
through him
make myself
137
my good Hamed,
me
so
asked
him
to
aceompaiiy me.
the
On
way he
hxter,
told
Mexico and,
in the
He
me
his
scars
with
pride.
The
hist
time he was
wounded was
many, and
He was
in Ger-
town
had completed
his long
term of
service in Algjiers.
From
of a
man on
;
the
toj)
palm
behind a high
I
w^all
he was busy
my
presence
he smiled
attendants
and
said
something to
my
to
about wishino; to
really
offer
me some
dates,
of the fruit.
He
a
came
me
I
wdtli
which
accepted
and sent
to
my
quarters.
When we had
palm grove.
ing in
dren,
;
we entered
and
the
From every
chil-
all
dwelling.
closely resembled
what
wit-
will
138
CAVE DWELLERS
litter,
shut
borne on
a,
female
relatives
an open space.
Then
"
of
horsemen,
who
They were
were decked
and the
silken
horses' quarters
with
brilliant
coverings.
not
many
riders,
I
neither did
told,
last
long.
This,
in
was
mourning
deaths.
the oasis
the
town,
through
and the
girl,
closely veiled,
was led
of the
first
peeped
in.
It
was
cool
and shady
in
the
little
On
the
floor
Imam "
made
with
speaks to the
of
f^iithful.
unpainted
is
wood, not
even
ornamented
carving, as
Towards
we
visited
another villaoe
139
tlic
nortli.
It
was surrounded by
minaret attached
little
to a
mosque
Between
there
is
and the
villaoe first
mentioned
by
a town, l)ut
now
ing materials.
now
its
so insecure
cruml)ling
a
its
said
that the
inhabitants had, as
all
diluvian
built
is
The
springs,
fort
was
evidently
to
protect
the
warm, the
highest
temperature
natives
about
113
Fahrenheit.
The
fetch
the
warm
and
set
it
of the
Romans
these
springs
powers,
When we
village,
we were
greeted
by the same
cries
of
I40
CAVE DWELLERS
the
ill
that the
women
four
It
were mourning
over a bride,
married
only
fever.
seemed
as
thouijh
sorrow had
overwhelmed the
palm
groves.
It
as
we
strolled
meal ready.
find
When
I
I
I
began to eat
could
not
my
knife,
which
at breakfast.
Hamed examined
in his
and then
dis-
had gathered
me
besides
from
gone.
parcel
two
packets were
at work.
We
done, and
At
I I
wished to
thouo-ht
o;uest
it
the
Khalifii
as
distress
ro])be(l.
sii])ject
him
But
;
to
I
learn
that
his
had
been
on
tlie
amongst the
if
man must
he went
he wishes to be respected.
As soon
as
Ali
heard
of
tlie
theft,
to the guest-room.
141
dates there at
my
the Khalifa's
it
own men,
so the guard
AH
off to
and
punishment.
This the fellow would not do, so Ali, assisted
others, searched the house, finding the knife
Ijy
and
packet of cigarettes.
In
pomegranates.
into
prison,
The
culprit
left
El
Hamma
Whether
or not
my
am
I
io'norant.
It
was
was about
to retire to rest,
slight
cold.
when AH
had caught a
He
insisted
2^0
down
to the wonderful
warm
I
spring,
declaring
that
in
quarter of an hour
It
carry-
142
CAVE DWELLERS
lanterns,
strolled
iiig:
throuo-h
the
villao-e
to
the
We
descended
By
which
flowed,
We
requested him to
it
move.
took
and we had to
assist
him,
for
he
crippled with
to
rheumatism.
When we
run
out
for
and
after
letting
water
little
while,
we
un-
dressed.
full
Roman
I
or
sfot
Moorish bath
began to perspire
Countins; one, two,
before I
three,
felt
scrambled
Over
my
whole body
I
had plunged
into cold
and
sprang back on
Twice
repeated
tlie
my endeavours
143
so I
remained seated on
my
me
body, and
even that
I
hardly bear.
felt
as
l:)oiled,
and
perspired frightfully.
it
With Hamed
by
w^as able
But
Ali astonished
in
us
quietly
enjoying
himself
of
sitting
the
least
water,
the
temperature
which
was
at
113 Fahrenheit.
we
sat
closely
wrapped
Twice when
drew
my
hood
aside, a
face.
clammy,
cold,
raw
air
seemed
to strike
my
floor,
light,
my
face again,
caught
white burnouses.
Thus we
sat
for
another
to
half-hour
negro.
chattinsf
the
men appeared
to
be
sleeping.
of
Jerba,
to
be
cured
by
this
far-famed
144
CAVE DWELLERS
spring.
When
he
arrived
all,
by
charitable
as
he,
poor fellow,
possessed
nothing.
I
francs,
him
so that he
my
kissed
my
and praying
journey
;
me on my
and,
to repeat
good washes.
We
home
cold.
stepped
at
nearly
run,
so
as
to
avoid
catching
the
sped
rapidly,
light after
the
boy
of
who
met
us,
and who
darted
like
fiasli
When
on
reached
my room
I felt
my
feeling of well-being.
all
symptoms
145
so I
fell
asleep,
healing
properties
the
holy
underground
spring.
My
day that
also lying
away and
boar had
moved
in the thickets
and brushwood.
we would
ride
and
me by
was
liglit,
to
depart
to
for
in
the
that
an
express
courier
arrived
report
had
at once
I
told
Hamed
all
to say to
the Khalifa
as
I
that
gave
up
intention
of
hunting,
his
men from
146
CAVE DWELLERS
I
said
this
knowing that
fallen,
it
for
it
soil
is
will
sprout
people
the
men
first
should
start
at
The
rule
is
that
the
arrivals
at
their
for,
them,
the
ground
is
common
property,
and
much
Over
in the oasis.
hastily
to
small
caravans
some
going
far
away
the
sliott,
others to the
possessed
below
my
the
window, just
as,
they had
done
the
Khalifa
first
court
of justice
in this place.
From
steps
T
the
doorway
the
at
fresli
the
top
of
the
air
stone
in
full
inhaled
morning
147
eating
roofs
their
looked
over the
flat
grey
the
to
the
pahn
groves.
risiiio-,
From some
of
dwellino's
smoke was
manv
tops, as T passed
on
mild,
and amiable.
pillars
My
the
eyes
wandered amongst
sur-
the
rows of
rounded
him
in
quarrelling,
gesticulating,
his
his
noisy
his
crowd.
He
saluted
rose and,
laying
hand on
head.
I
breast,
me by
bending
did
we passed
in the long
white wall
sacks,
and
men with wooden ploughs and rope harness. Other women brought w^ater in great bullock skins, and
all
was
bound
securely
on
grumbling
camels,
;
amidst
much
loud
shouting
wall
and talking
while,
other's
The
Berber
women
are
of
fair
complexion.
148
CAVE DWELLERS
silver
leaving
their
and throat
visible.
On
silver,
their bare
lead,
arms and
bone,
or
and their
of
are
stained
with
henna.
eyes,
Many
features
and black
graceful.
features,
and ugly
extraction.
foreign
negro blood.
Later
so
expressed
my
astonishment at finding
"
many
They
are
more pro-
lific
fore
many men
They
are
take
them
as
handmaidens
to
descendants of
slaves
brought by
Officially
now no more
who
are
slaves
but, in fact,
over
more
or less closely
bound
to
They
are
The
same
black
as
costume worn
that
is
by
the
negresses
is
the
of
the
wool
plaited
thick
locks,
that
fixU
149
either
liidden
l)y
a handkerchief or hangs
own women.
were
laden,
Gradually,
as
the
camels
they
foot,
former
with
muskets on
their
shoulders
or
way on
horseback.
Their path
wound
amongst
and
large,
came from
tra-
in
another direcfall
We
into lines,
and,
winding
towards
various
air.
On
the
plain
burn
the
away
for
to the north.
With
the
oasis
:
my
guide
to
went
a stroll
quarter,
through
first
the Jewish
where
bought an
smiths,
article
who,
in
my
presence,
made
anklets,
ear-
ISO
CAVE DWELLERS
and bracelets of
silver.
rings,
Then we
visited
the Ijlacks,
utensils
who
fashion
large
of clay
without
the
of
potter's
wheel.
to
the
coftee-house
the
only
one
flies,
saw
followed, where,
amongst myriads of
we drank
in
On, again, to a
man
the
the
of
market
plaited
place,
who
leaves
made the
;
loveliest
to
fans
palm
and
lastly
1)asket-
inquisitive
who watched
When we
ments
"
returned
we
"
Bureau de Renseigneridins;
with their
Spahis,
to
inquiry.
They had
awaiting
my
return,
and invited me to
"
them
at their meal.
almost
e(jually well.
The
meal,
otticers,
at
the
conclusion
of the
midday
all
the
151
were
ol)liged
to
return
cheerful
o'clock,
home the
morniiio;.
After
repast, I started
the plain,
near
The
ivhalifji,
who
naturally
had
few
people at
we should be unable
on the following day.
the
Khalifa,
to
find
our
way
to Iladeij
this
They represented
to
I
and caught
of
an expression
Khalifji,
in
I I
the
usually
mild
eyes
the
which
before.
In
in his
soldier,
Gabes
imaginable.
With
away
his
weapons
in
his
hand he
tribes,
went
oft',
far
to strange
and unfriendly
to rob
and plunder.
In
fact, his
forays sometimes
extended as
about Tunis.
That
out a fight,
may
The
after us
officers
to
the well,
we
said adieu
and rode
off".
The mild
Khalifa's sly
glance rested on
me
as
CHAPTER IX
Over Aglat Merteba to the Matmata Mountains
Over
a slightly
side,
undulcitiiig
on either
we rode
for
some distance
in
the
intense heat.
On
to
the
way we met
comrade,
a Spalii from
Hamed
to
was pleased
talk
to him.
see
It
and
lingered
the Khalifa of El
Hamma
at
last
He was
Hamma
though
meet
his officers,
On
account
of
which,
near
the
sliott,
in
Nafta,
and
in
the
yet more
northerly
Grofsa,
cordon
of 8paliis
munication
infected
and
the
frontier of Tripoli.
Spahis,
1D2
153
but on
tlie
particularly
menacing roads
left,
The
tain
The mounthe
far
to
our
left
rose
higher,
that
to
right
But
away
the south
we could
by
of the
Matmata mountains.
picked
clean
We
passed a dead
camel,
Cjuickly
the
jackals,
and
paced
or
stony
ground,
us,
in
a hollow
by
river
bed,
had
encamped.
Now
The
there
l)e
seen.
tattered
the
empty
tents
was
Broken potwere
scattered
esparto
straw,
and
refuse
untidily about.
well
in
We
the only
water-skin
we
had.
From
this
for there
was
1>ottles
154
CAVE DWELLERS
The
drivers fetched a
little
We
off
secured
Ijy
the
foreleg,
alfa straw, as
would be
late
ere the
who was
Then
in the
open
air
between the
meal
I
and prepared to
enjoy
our evening
it
of dried
lit
After
was over
a cigarette,
bered.
and
listened
to
the
horses
Thus
tlie
Once
a bird
Hew over
stillness
I
of
on,
the
night.
put
as
besides
gift
my
in
burnous,
haik
brought
to
lay
at
down
the
side,
for,
me from
the rays
of the
moon,
moonlight
causes illness
I
so say the
Arabs at
I
least.
was roused by
out,
Init
the
looked
Hamed
also rose,
So we lay down
It
the
way,
carrying
AGLAT MERTEBA TO MATMATA MOUNTAINS
barley
for
155
our horses.
When we
as
tried
we gave
dates
the
guide
some bread,
only
again.
le-
with
him,
and then
to
We
From him
officers,
learnt that
repri-
who had
were
daybreak
pacing
in
our
our
and
the
his
wake
of
guide,
burnous, led
the
At dawn we passed
pletely
mound
that was
comlater
somewhat
like
shaped
tumuli,
said
Hamed,
" are
ruins
from
the
On
cattle.
the plains
their
scjuare
the
them
for
the
night,
that jackals
other
wild
animals
may
not
at least, this
As the
156
CAVE DWELLERS
tlie
mountains.
Far away to
UEAUINU.
which
knew were
and Tamezred.
At seven
o'clock
it
bec^an to
ei-ow
hot.
Our
and,
157
statf at the
Thus he
stony
stepped
forward
tiat
over
the
uiieven
ground, or on the
riddled with holes
by the
we saw herds
of sheep
and
jxoats o-razino; in
charge of a scuardian.
a
After again
courses
crossing
couple
of
chy water-
vicinity of the
mountains.
This the
;
it
as
we were
would
feast,
was not
far thence.
now
who
said he
Hamma.
us, as w^e
left far
behind
To our right
I
little
cave
village.
palm and
On the
At
valley,
last
still
to our right,
we came
CHAPTER X
Bridal Festivities in Hadeij
Down
hills
and valleys
path,
marked by
a dust cloud.
Burnous-clad
parties,
men
straojo-led alono; in
first as
small or
laro;e
which showed at
side,
on the mountain
distinct
as
Women
donkeys
in
liright
clothing
their
and
mounted
on
came
from
villages,
;
accompanied
other
or
by
their
afoot,
;
husbands
and children
in
women were
blue
draperies
wrapped
red,
yellow,
the
midday
their
arms and
made
the
Khalifa's village.
couple of his
men came
riding to receive
me
almost unconsciously
little
found myself
;
at the
head of quite a
cavalcade
the horses
BRIDAL FESTIVITIES
the
IN HADEIJ
159
my
ear.
air of festivity
who drew
their
aside as
restive
the horsemen
merrily past,
as they
steeds curveting
and snorting
emerged from
When
we
halted
surI
Here
old
I
and
saluting
first
amiable
cordially,
Sid
who
received
me most
then
On
raised
knew
so
w^ell,
were
the
reception of the
numerous
No women were
visible
they
remained
in the caves,
but hundreds of
men moved
al)out, or sat in
swarm
of
Many
of
to
me,
and
heard
incessantly
salutation
of
the reply
"
Salam alikum."
i6o
CAVE DWELLERS
secure and proud of
I felt
my
position as a friend of
that,
knowing
though the
I
was
play
on
foot,
My
coat.
But he had
guests,
and
at work, dragging
them
make room
for the
numerous animals.
amongst the
idle lads
who were
heedless of
directions.
give to o
me
visil)le,
According to custom, he
BRIDAL FESTIVITIES
Mansur was not
the hriile; so
at
IN HADEIJ
jroiie
i6i
home, havin'
to fetch
sons
I
my
my
;
tirst visit.
first-rate gala
dinner refreshed
me
well
came
to look after
an inquisitive
meal
and when
it
out,
and
and
all,
as I desired to
change
my
my
festal
costume
by
white linen
When
the
this
was done,
Hamed
entered, leading
lad,
who
addressed
me
in pure French,
by Hamed
who was
his
invited
to the festival,
mother
and
sister
donkey.
Ali attended a French school at Gabes, and, l)eing
a
soon
learnt
to
talk
fluent French.
1
He
told
me
i62
CAVE DWELLERS
lie
said
if I
as interpreter.
I
this acquisition,
l)efore
and
durin2' o the
arrival,
the bride's
of
and
consequent
commencement
little
festivities,
All's
help,
in
gathering information
on
the
subject
of
the
enabled
me
to
more
fully
wit-
And
here
my
readers
may
picture to
little
caravan led
the bride
;
by
the
home
his bride-elect
women
ready.
adorned,
and
the
bridal
cham])er
made
On
father,
his son
Mohammed's
who
is
The
BRIDAL FESTI\'ITIES
miirriage
contract.
is
IN
HADKIJ
))y
i6 J
then coiifliided,
Before
the
l)ut
merely
a civil
left
bridegroom can he
1)e
in
much
J'eu
de joie,
eaten,
bride's
many songs sung, (juantities of kus-kus and many preparations made in hoth the
and the bridef>room's homes.
where
festivities
In the latter
for
especially,
must be kept up
eight days,
making ready
It
was,
earlier,
my
readers
I7tli
may remember,
I
eight
days
on the
October, that
had witfirst
At
the
to be
many
people l)eing
that
so there
l)ut
was
much work
festivity
had to be done,
joy and
would reign
women
met
in
in the
improvising songs.
"
re-echoed
seen, sat
men,
the
as
we have
groups listening to
drums and
Now
and
and
again
report
there
would be the
report, all
of powder
following
The two
third,
first fete
is
The
"El Henna,"
named
i64
CAVE DWELLERS
stuiii
leaves of which
feet of the
women.
On
women
again
assemble and work and sing, busying themselves with preparations for the
festival.
At
beoin.
last
on the
fifth
The negroes
as
they are
never overlooked
men
well fed
and strengthened,
for in the
evening after
wood
for fuel.
They return
in
the
their
make
and greatest
effort to
do credit to them-
and to the
of
Khalifti.
score
sheep
are
slaughtered,
no
festive
man
gorging until he
" El Kesuar,"
is
appointed for
165
the
Inutlc
of
lier
dresses
and
ornaments.
men and
number
of
men on
foot.
The
latter led
l)ridal gifts.
On
the
way
the
home on
the
other
amongst the
hills.
flutes
drums
to
festal
welcome preduring
many
tri])e
little
Men a
should go to Hadeij as
What
seen by the
men
of her homestead,
flickered
walls.
For the
last
i66
CAVE DWELLERS
Ijeautifid
little
Mena was
Mohammed,
son of the
Khalifa of Hadeij.
village
women
of the Uled
done.
Enou<>;h
was provided
strano-ers
for
their
own
tribesmen,
and
for the
who were
to
come and
fetch the
bride.
After
Amor and
his
to
clothes,
and
Before leaving,
each seated on
her
(chest).
On
woman
money, intended
bride, for she
adorn the
may
to
prove attractive
husband.
return
Not
until
after
sunset
does
Amor
167
the
:
villao-e
of
is
also
feasting
little girl
]:)id
leaves her
home
become the
Vv'ife
of a stranger, a
man
with
whom
she
may
husband and
on the
Lucky
when she
Ijeast of
is
faded, old,
and ugly,
she
for
may
become a
burden, and
make way
she
another
whom
may
gratefully
welcome
But we
such
forebodings.
Sorrow
may come
day, called
early,
but,
possibly, never
At dawn
canopy),
all
of the
final
" Sjiffa
"
(a
were
eai'ly
afoot in Hadeij.
During the
night,
guests
all
the villages in
Matmata mountains
Uled Sliman, but
Sultan,
first
and
from
Beiii
foremost,
Ras-el
iVissa.
those
also
Ned,
Beni
Tujan,
Smerten,
the men,
i68
CAVE DWELLERS
all
hands
full,
taking
care
that
watch Mansur
start
with
the
canopy
(Sjifi"a)
He
rode a donkey,
l)y
oft'
men
on
whilst
the
at the
home
of the bride,
later.
The
the men,
women, and
children,
and even
joie.
l)ride
to
the
negroes, followed
by much feu de
the
Towards
midday, when
has
been
of
men
his
for the
who
has
her
and
striven faithfully
tively impressive.
that
the result
may
is
be superla-
But hark
distance, the
oh,
heard in the
Haste,
men from
powder
boom
t^
.1
169
171
decorated
and enveloped
it
is
in
many
bride,
coloured draperies.
Within
placed
the
completely
it,
veiled,
drawn
l)e
around
seen,
homewards towards
Mansur
leading.
The
with them
all
Before
me
down
the mountain.
We
was to be
females,
held.
Thither
in
enveloped
yellow
They
The
He, Belkas-
sim.
My
j)hice,
while
he inquired whether
fortably seated,
was
satisfied,
if
was comat
and expressed
his
gratification
my
172
CAVE DWELLERS
Behind me rose a rampart of earth, banked up
it
rows of
men
and
is
bounded
Ijy
blue mountains.
of the neighl)0uring
palm
trees 1
amongst
these
were
men
in
silken
apparel
and
carrying
Far to the
left,
number
of horsemen, clothed
silver-inlaid
guns
moment and
right, the
To the
ground rose
was hot
at
the attention of
was
strained
watching
for
the
long-expected
The
flutes,
clarionets,
to play.
the
open space,
173
of gun-shots
"
was heard
rose
The smoke
I
leaves,
and then
saw men
full
white
trousers,
dance,
either
two or four
at a time.
The
his
rested
his
cheek on
gun,
aimed at
with
circle
little
the butt
end of
his
gun held
in
a similar
side,
position.
Thus
other.
and
now playing
his
in quicker in the
One
of the
men threw
it fell,
musket up
air to catch it
again as
in
whizzing round
while,
his hand.
So they danced
for a
at each other as at
whilst others
repeated.
danced forward
and the
firins
was
174
CAVE DWELLERS
Two and
two, aiming at each other, four
;
men
danced, in a circle
as they tripped
silver-inlaid
weapons, on
trees, whilst
hideously.
Then the
Two men
a gallop, forcing
them along
approached, the
caps seemed one red spot, their two faces were not
distino;uislialjle
The
rider
on the
rio'ht
in his left,
and
swung them
to
and
fro
the
air.
When
they
us, just
them
fired
air,
his
gun
into the
ground
in the
same
fashion.
Hamma
riders
whose
tlieir
had
silken
flowing
over
saw none.
Some
thirty horsemen
came forward
in turn to
BRIDAL FESTIVITIES
did
IN
HADEIJ
passed
;
175
when
the riders
the
fintes
it
was deafening.
But the
I'iders'
prowess was a
heantiful sight.
Some
past;
of
only galloped
saddle,
splendid long
sword, re1
semblino- our
own
This
was to
heard the
sound of other
fintes
and drums.
Mansur on
his
foot, others
it
supporting
swayed backwards
and forwards.
Behind the camel came some women, and the
procession
was closed
l)y a
and
gifts.
came tearing
up.
They
fired their
to the canopy.
saw their
forelegs right
up
At
short
some
176
CAVE DWELLERS
by
side.
All
guns
all
made
in
Knud Gamborg.)
her
honour,
to their starting-point
177
each
gallo[).
l^ahuiquin
with
its
in
front of me.
chitter
of the
horses'
;
and of shots
spectators
in
fired
into the
ground
wdiilst
the
their
white
the
burnouses stood
beautiful sight.
ahnost motionless,
enjoying
brightly,
and many
to
drew
their
hoods
its
their
heads
protect
themselves from
a stark-naked
came galloping
He waved
it
his
a stick, using
as a gun.
The
negro
lad,
arms about
neck.
bound
neck as he
the mule
fall,
for
finally
plunged to one
side,
on to the sand.
tators
smile,
For the
first
time
aloud.
The mule
178
CAVE DWELLERS
a few
for
first
performance he
After the
at
the
was conat
an end,
before,
all
some going
of
it.
The
whole ground
crop of burnouses.
gave directions to
I
Hamed and
Ali as to where
was to be placed
We
where
I
was stationed on a
From my commanding
the spot where the
first
position
sat
looked
to
down on
women
and sang
me on my
evening.
men and
boys arrived,
Belkassim, the ubiquitous Belkassim, keeping back the boys with his marshal's stick.
also,
Amor was
there
and a
little
arrived on his
mule.
was a group of
girls,
mostly half-grown
they were very
as they
in
effective.
They
watched
for the
advent of the
By
FANTASIA.
(From a
sketch by
Knud Gamborg.)
179
BRIDAL FESTIVITIES
IN
HADEIJ
i8i
me
an instant
slie
dis-
many
a pretty, roguisli, or
When
girl
nodded
withdrew
The Khalifa on
ing order.
his
forward to
have a look.
At
length
the
musicians
Gun-shots exploded
The obstinate
swayed from
left to right.
little
Poor
little
Mena
you
your cage.
At
last the
men
complaining roar
perhaps
i82
CAVE DWELLERS
to reassure
her.
seeking;
in
a finger-ring a
Amor handed
l)rotlier,
her.
was evidently
Iiimself or
the Ijridegroom,
was unable to
it
with sand.
kerchiefs,
and
when
this
lifted
down
the closely
veiled bride
on the ground.
The negress
mained
standino^.
Round
it
from view.
I
Hamed.
l)oys
He
explained, in
some small
were to be circum-
Hamed, the
wife
Mahmud
little l)oy
was
also a relative.
BRIDAL FESTIVITIES
IN HADEIJ
183
tassels richly
far
coidd
make
out, chains
hung about
their ears
and
necks.
in coloured coats,
below
by anklets.
as if they
the youngest
The music
in the
same manner.
During
this
ceremony,
which lasted
at
least
veiled,
by
and
boomed,
little
arm continually
moving
to
and
"henna"
leaves
At
etc.
first
removed.
the
of her duties
she
token thereof
I
observed
i84
CAVE DWELLERS
chopped eggs and a great quantity of food
also that
The scene
full
of a
so
impressive,
its
that
for
moment
restlessly
solemnity.
At the end
moving
see
what
Mohammed's
first wife,
closelv veiled,
came
for-
ward, and, taking her rival by the hand, led her into
their
dwellino;.
On
the other
many
foot-
Mena's
On
little
mirror, wdiilst
double
edged
sw^ord,
the
point of
" Be-
ware
Ill
befall
;
those
who would
injure
tliis
pure
young woman
"
!
As soon
as the door
had swuno--to on
its creakino^
my
me
as the
gate.
BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ
It
185
cxju^eted
to
phiy
renewed
vij;()ur
in
tlie
evening.
conversed together.
villages, requested
me
to seat
to me,
and
thanked them
others invited
me
to their villages.
I
was
short,
and
to
Medinin
on the plains
me, for
I
must excuse
Ben
Aissa, Tujud,
many
You
wherefore,
?
Ben Sultan
to our
will
'
"
said the
sheikh of that
villao;e.
"
Come
Ksar,'
and
if
you
will
I
be welcome."
all
explained that
had to go
the
way
to
JMedinin,
where
would take no
word, saying
"
'
refusal,
his
You can
'
ride
;
kus-kus
there
you can go on
to Tujan,
i86
CAVE DWELLERS
there,
sleep
ride
straight
to
Me-
dmm.
"
But
coidd not
ride a
You
But
shall
will
carry you
anywhere."
"
I
my
horse and
"
?
my
Spain's horse,
what
shall
do with them
"
I
will take
them
to
Gabes with
" I
greetino;;s
from
am
just about
and so
must
also the
is
"That
" No,
thing of yourselves."
unfortunately w^e
are
compelled
;
to
be
but the
men
in our
you
well,
and be
them
for their
invitation.
This
a fine bull
as
an offering towards
the feast.
For an hour
I sat in
187
whom
him
rare, articles
of commerce.
After
sauiiteriiio'
for
the
returned to
a
my
I
cave.
It
lit
couple
of
all
candles,
others
planations
desired.
Ali and
his
brother
were
often
my
in
faithful
interpreters,
but
my work
to
was
me,
interrupted,
so
many came
salute
;
perhaps
and
the room
filled
by
degrees.
At
me.
last
meal-time approached,
and
they
left
So
good things
in peace.
honey,
and
dates.
me
I
with
assurances of his
which
I
heartily returned.
When
yard.
lighted,
had eaten,
full of
men
eating amongst
for
it is
the
pillars.
Deep
silence
reigned,
not
when
eating.
Ali,
my
cave were
Ilamed,
and many
others,
in
my
meal, and
long cavern
passage
stood
i88
CAVE DWELLERS
Under
were in
I
full
feast.
the
hill,
where the
stars twinkled
all
was
still.
Out
of
the
the
saw rays of
light
ings,
banquet.
It
o'clock,
and
it
would not
before
the
gate
with
song,
music,
and
dancing.
also
near
to
when the
his
himself
bride,
accompanied only
Ijy
a few friends.
As
stood, lost in
at
and pulled
my
burnous,
me
message by one of
who was
I
seekino- me.
I
As
"
Sidi.
I
met the
messenger.
Mohammed
Will you?
asks
if
you
will
accompany him,
And
shall I lead
you?"
way
in the
narrow lanes
in
189
was
(juiet,
wc
})ut
distaiici'
l)ul\veeii
festivities.
Suddenly a
probaljl}'
doi;
ness
a
we were
in
neighbourliood of
ceased
dwelling-place.
its
Soon
after,
barking
we were beyond
domain.
my
hand and
led me, as he
in
had some
difficulty
finding
my
little
Ali
walked on the
my
burnous.
When we
I
before me.
These
friends.
They were
I
when
I
approached.
By
distinguished
red
an average-sized
man
clothed
in
burnous,
it
could
be,
my
gift
On
his
with a
tassel.
groom.
Addressing
friend, as
me
he
said,
" If
you
will
])e
my
and
my
father
ray brothers,
shall be grateful
to
me
shortly to
my
house."
I
thanked him
for his
invitation,
which
was
delighted to accept.
The
Ijridegroom's toilet
I90
CAVE DWELLERS
Jew
wa.s still present,
whose
had
visited during
my
first visit to
Hadeij.
He was
groom's
valet.
having
doubtless
acted
as
his
We
all
sat
down
together.
pleasant
scent
little
phial
to
me
to use from.
When
he
on
his
fingers,
kerchief,
luxury
see
hereabouts.
"
I
"
he asked me.
"
?
"
How many
"
!
we were
in the
was forbidden
Why, he
I
moment
to
Mohammed,"
it
is
said,
" I
will
confess to
you that
a
man
is
her slave.
Two
but
tell
you
that, in
my
opinion, a
man ought
to
have three
191
more nor
less.
otlier,
but
in
Mohammed
understood
my
joke,
and invited me
Lighting one of
round.
little
my
cigarettes,
passed them
to the Jew,
When
Ali
was about
to otter
them
hastily pulled
ofier
my
"
him any
he
is
a Jew."
All's estimation,
tempt
for the
Jewish race
I
"Those
so innate
is
the con-
dogs!"
Afterwards
stupidity on
found
it
my
Jew.
He misunderstood
him down
and impertinent,
to set
had
sharply, causing
little
Ali to laugh
a laugh of superiority.
knowimj that
would be considered
For
is,
"
How
is
it
When we
a
for
about an hour,
it
to say that
was time.
We
and
192
CAVE DWELLERS
was alwcays customary
to
it
cany
the Ijiiilegroom
So, a
lift-
part of the
way
Mohammed,
and,
carried
liim
few
He was
evidently pleased at
the
my
doing him
friendly
service,
me and
began to run.
rest followed.
man
the
We
the caves.
All was in order.
to gather immediately,
A crowd
of spectators began
in
and we slipped
through
the
into
gates
the
court,
thence
through
the
court.
underThis
Here we entered.
its
The vaulted
oblong;
room
up.
\Yith
brilliantly
lit
At the
far
in front w^xs
spread
another carpet.
Here
Mohammed
seated
ture visible.
On
pointing to
me
to
take
my
place
on the right.
193
wrapped
friend,
in his cloak,
vacancy.
His
who was
also
In
followed
us.
No women
were
present.
soon
after,
before
Mohammed, who
first
took
for
mouthful of the
his bride.
food
the
meal prepared
him by
We
sat silent a
moment
my
In
the
doorway
looked
stiff,
back.
There sat
the
I
bridegroom,
dumb and
it
little
I
and
in
the
a
dim
light
beyond
fancied
it
caught sight of
woman's
face.
AVhether
not.
I
or smiling, I
know
only
know
that
it
must
bride's.
along
played, and
drummed.
There a mulatto
194
CAVE DWELLERS
;
here two
men danced
a stick
my
place amongst
who
held themselves in a
this last day's
homage.
About an hour
elapsed, then
it
was scarcely
the
music overpowered
sounds.
Ali hastily
handed
me
a gun,
fired
which
discharged, and
several shots
were
present
knew what
They,
dark
and wrapped
given
to
in a
and driven
parents
home
The
sorrowing
disgraced
and
relatives.
festival
as before.
my
side,
and surrounded
I
remained seated
the
Now
and
again
some
men
stepped
forward,
195
two together.
Over
their shoulders
hung red
cloaks,
in graceful atti-
and the
left
On
the
flaps of his
coins
be thrown to him.
Round
drums
played.
Now
his
fiorures raised
an arm and
lap,
another coin.
who
in this
way paid
of
them on such
festive
When
at last the
men
ceased,
half-
of such
and such
villages
had given
much, at
Now
and then
his
196
CAVE DWELLERS
this evening,
c[uite
which
owing
to the
number
of voices,
sounded
imposing.
When
he concluded, the
Now
and then a
solo
sung
in a nasal tone,
CHAPTER
XI
Over the Mountains and aceoss the Plain FROM HaDEIJ to MeTAMER
During
morning
the
nio-lit
their
few
still
remained
next
to
accompany me
to Beni Sultan.
to
emerge from
any moment,
in hopes of bidding
1
him
and
also because
rejoic-
ings,
village
But
and
I
tlie
time
fixed
off
for
my
departure came,
had to ride
without
arranged
my
me
thus showing
final
marks of courtesy.
I
He
took
my
and
leave with
to his sons,
little
warm
and
men.
rewarded
igS
CAVE DWELLERS
with
my
heart
full
of gratitude towards
him and
my
stay in the
Matmata
me
my
knowledge, no
I
these regions.
my
all,
whom
and
I
for
their friendship
which
flattered
myself
had gained.
mule saddle
pack.
is
somewhat a
Its
is
that
the
leather
hung
at each
end
is
slung over
or be lifted into
it.
To anyone accustomed
it
is
to the
ordinary
English
saddle
it
is
an extremely
un-
comfortable seat, as
on both
stirrups, or
off";
and
falling
but
must say
on the
my
mule proved
mountain
to be altog-ether a success
diflicult
road.
whence
we
had
lovely
view
then
we
many
199
Just as
we
way
to
Sultan to complain to
number
of palms surrounded
by embankments.
We
They had
by
whilst
we had
circled
round by a
less steep
and fatiguing
route.
the valley
now
deserted and
on the incline on
few of the
villaoje
ground.
We
a
by
From
thence
standing
in a
We
rode
down
the
mountain
side
the
dwellings
were crowded
200
CAVE DWELLERS
men and women, and
we
halt, close
Not
till
we reached the
valley did
whom
was most
by one of
The passage
to the cave
it
sloped
down
On one
a vaulted
by the
dug out
cave
this
I
dined.
After-
wards
with
permission
to
top
to
bottom.
In the main these dwellino;s were on the same
plan as those of Hadeij, but
in
I
Water flowed
all
duo;
on a perpen-
steps.
The women
their looms.
I
me
me
on
gate,
was an
oil-
and
another a granary.
201
we again
palm and
I
olive
groves.
Nowhere
in
the
mountains had
Close to the
in
villasje
women
clad
few^
Two
of
hewn
These supported
them
of which the
of drawing water
women,
their
by moving
run, the distance covered being equal to the depth of the well.
ful of
When
run.
We
more or
with olive
trees,
l)ut
some of
If rain
it
fall
these
would
die,
and
would
many
fruit.
be grown and
bear
It cut
me
202
CAVE DWELLERS
verge of destruction, and the more so when
I
tlie
trees.
Rain had
in this.
fallen in
many
we turned
to the right,
and
cliffs
the
nortli,
west,
pinnacles.
chasm was
the
reached
by the
which,
hidden
behind
mountain,
a rift in
this
rift,
streamed
glorious
clift'.
radiance
through
On
either side of
two
villages of Tujan,
On one
side,
On
inquiring
what
old,
it
was
tlie
days
When we
" Erzib
village,
my
guide,
in
home
the
me
to
dismount.
up,
So,
leading
our
animals,
we walked slowly
rattlino-
down behind
mounted
Beneath
some
entry.
olive
trees
we
aa;ain
to
make our
203
We
rift
enouo;li
;
was a deep
ravine
irregular
the
cliffs
other,
rose
almost
the
very
top
of
flat
On
of the
village
castle
perched
cliff.
like
medival
I
sat in silent
till
sight,
interrupted
by
Hamed,
the
faithful
his horse
behind
at the
He
told
me
to turn round
and look
how
glorious
was
the
sight
when
raised myself
It w^as so
beautiful that
even
Hamed and
directly
Arabs
w^ere
awed by
its
splendour.
Looking down
valley,
over
the
slopes,
side,
the
we saw
In the
plains.
evening light
yellow,
all
mingled as into a
the scene.
By
the
first
house,
the
Sheikh's,
we
halted.
204
CAVE DWELLERS
out,
one of whom,
suppose,
me
in
Hamed was
to
look
at
He
returned
and
I
whether notice
my
The
spokesman
available.
insisted
I
room
suspected this to be
Erzib to
and ordered
Hamed and
mount
me
should be welcome.
heard the
man
following us,
down
to those below.
of a steep
down which
;
all
and
looking, as did
the other
On
a
and the
cliff wall.
woman was
working, was
205
fell
away
;
till
it
and valleys
then a
Below
us,
and a
little
to
one
side,
was the
little
mosque, or
men
the
dis-
they kissed
is,
one could
dis-
cern
it
by stretching
end to the
one's neck.
left,
On
the opposite
side, at the
lay
tlie
other village.
sallied
In
the evening
the
women
forth
in
the
and the
Below
as,
with extended
Some
us,
of
them
one of them
should come
down and
live
I
when
replied that
was well
installed,
2o6
fowls, eggs,
CAVE DWELLERS
and bread would shortly be
sent,
tliat
meal prepared
for him.
Through
a court.
a very broad
gateway
descended into
its
it
;
own
and
To the
left
On
the
flat
fire-
one on either
side,
woman
Some
laying
it
on the
fire
to
warm
set.
children
wrapped
was
burnous.
elderly
From
own
saw
woman
forward.
by the
hearth.
his
Erzib
told
wives to come
This
they did
again after
quite
I
naturally
and
willingly,
retiring
Soon
after, I
207
his
the floor of
I lit
tlie
irregularly
shaped.
The
floor
not whitewashed.
hung on
a cord,
right
slight
in
raised on four
this
was made of
twigs,
and had no
coverings.
two
boys and a
little girl.
The
behind
it
a house tucked
away
at the back,
and designed on
Whilst the
pile of
prej)aring food,
company
of
my
2o8
CAVE DWELLERS
The moon had
risen
I
and
mountain and
vale.
could see
down
hung
into a courtfire
burnt
Over
it
cauldron
and
as
she
moved
and
fro a
couple of
Now
stood
was not
By
dog lay and growled, and when the woman paused and looked up he moved
watchino; the stranger.
Erzib's first wife
restlessly, for
he also was
against
the
doorway.
not
speak,
but
in our conversation.
Her
wept
many
years.
Ali, her
in service at Gabes,
that we know
he was a good
is
It
now
four
him home
"
Do you
not even
know
if
he lives
"
?
"
"
209
we have
alive,
and supposed
be imprisoned at Bona
in Algeria."
The
she
till
heard of what we
were
"
"
" No,"
replied,
"
come from
in
much more
with
distant place,
Bona."
"
Ah
know
a sob.
*'No, poor
woman,"
replied; "that
do not
alive.
You
have waited so
time will
be
lone;
for
remainino^
soon
pass
ere
to
you and
love
happy with
will
you
again,
you
him.
He
will
be
Avill
rejoice."
"
Ah
it
for
he was
innocent
am
sure of that
been the
"
culprit, for
he was so young."
?
How
old was he
I
"That
" Don't
do not remember."
" No,
thing of that."
" Don't
14
you know
either, Erzib
2IO
"
CAVE DWELLERS
No, Sidi
;
but
^
it
to this country."
audibly,
and
Erzib
saying,
She
is
very
unhappy,
"
Oh
yes, Erzib.
Would
But
this I can
promise
will
if
son."
I
To
my
regret,
later to
was unable
do anything
poor
not,
folk.
is still
in prison I
I
know
of his
and
know
less.
My
sincere
parents'
hope
is
that
he
may
be worthy
touching
affection.
set
out
in
it
children
whom
he
with
Hamed and
and
the younger
When
also eaten,
had
finished,
Hamed and
I
Erzib had
we remained
seated.
The
eldest
may have
l)een
who
The Arabs
The most
211
and was
indefiitigablc in
showing me
old
musket
I
When
gave
it
showed surprise
and
up the
soil, his
father
Next
girl
little
old.
lost
me
that
it
was
in con-
fallen
out of
itself.
Here
meets with an
who
doctor told
it is
me
that
many
with others
the result of
dust, heat,
and uncleanliness.
child
The youngest
two,
was a
who clung
to his father,
As we crossed the
like to see
first
court, he inquired
all
whether
would not
the
dwellings.
Accordingly we went
to
When we
in a corner,
hands
dog which
growled at me.
son's house.
Asleep
212
CAVE DWELLERS
for
was
woman wrapped
We
we saw
we were nearly
the
Beneath,
lig-hts
and
fires in
of dogs.
Shortly
after,
we
climbed a
difficult
ledo^e or terrace of
cliff,
quite
straight
and
According to Erzib, we
on.
it
which
lit
up by means of matches.
terrace, and, accord;
they were
we descended from
Wrapping myself
in
my
;
burnous
lay
down on
my
in the
Hamed and
mother.
Just as
was
falling asleep a
;
it
and
slept
till
daybreak, and was only once diskid coming in through the open
turbed by a
little
213
me.
heard then
the
cliildren,
who with
their
in the
next room,
Hamed and
I
moving on
of dogs.
slept
l)een
and when
spread over
evidently
guest.
me was
new
festal
garment that
for
the
From
valley,
From
a side
came peering
a white
I
in at the gate,
couple
the
women
for
their
hospitality,
mounted, with
Hamed
behind me.
As we
left,
women came
From
down
the slope,
and vanished
acjain
behind the
wall.
We
valley,
we followed
214
CAVE DWELLERS
wliicli
mata range,
commands
away
the
low-lying land
to Tripoli.
who were on
their
way
to the mountains.
They
me
in
veils.
The mountain
Shenini
tops,
where
a
lie
the villages of
of
continuation
the
southern
ants
crops,
As
of
these
villages
sowing their
and having been told that the dwellings were had already
therefore left
seen, I decided not to
similar to those I
visit
them.
We
hills,
them on one
side
and
rode
encircled
bounded by low
It
was here
that,
when
pass-
thicket,
we spied
a covey of
Erzib tried
it
at
them from
his horse,
but
would not
was too
off it
llown.
last
of
these
hills,
we
many
we
could arrive at
on the mule
liad tired
me, so
preceded
215
the acclivity.
There
lies
an interminable
flat
plain
the north-west
whilst
distinguished a
hill,
and on
to be a tower or fortress.
It corre-
wandered down
the
gentle
slope,
through
many
in an easterly direction.
making the
signal station
I
my
point of direction
until,
looking round,
dis-
south. to
They beckoned
to
me, as
we were compelled
rouo'h
make
a detour to avoid a
my
;
party,
we rode
farther
plain,
and monotonous
its
and
At
last
we viewed
2i6
CAVE DWELLERS
trees,
palm
we could not
see
it
at
as
it
lay in a hollow.
Then
palm
;
appeared, and a
later
some huts
the
number
outskirts
town.
The huts
a rule,
branches
thatch.
^were
But
it
of
straw and
round, as
with a pointed
was easy
ants
re-
round,
mushrooms on short
stifling,
took off
my
gaiters
and bared
my
legs.
But
were so scorched by
I
had
to ask a
them
it
for
and
covered.
CHAPTER
XII
palm grove
in the hollow
we had
we found
were not
that
it
lay l)y a
well
The
trees
l)e
particularly
;
cared
for, as
could
seen at a o-lance
thov were
far apart,
for irrigation.
On
it,
and above
there
whitewashed
light.
This
the
"Ksar" Metamer.
is
The ground
They
lie
lengthwise,
Middle Agres
streets.
the
square.
The
and
tliere.
In
other words,
as a
every
a
quarter,
little
and
also the
town
whole, forms
fortress.
This
plains
in
is
;
in fact, the
same plan
217
as that
employed
2i8
CAVE DWELLERS
;
abovegroimd
since the
it
im-
mountain peaks, or
down
The houses
are
On
The
effect is
Each inhabitant
takes with
carries in his
hand
key that he
him everywhere.
Not
little
far
for the
garrison,
camp
dwelling,
kid.
who
way
procured a new
Ksar of Medinin.
As
we approached
its
our
left lay
the
"Ksar"
of
The ends
Above
A STKEET IN BEN I
J'.AUKA.
219
221
vaulted gable
ends
caught a glimpse of
Kasba.
houses
I
Through
saw the
narrow opening
inner gable ends
row of
of dwellings,
mind the
pictures
"pueblos."
Parts lay in deep shadow, parts blinding white
in
the sunshine.
mingled
scarcely discriminate
what
it
beheld.
till
We
we came
to
some palms
farther on
grew
others.
These plantait
on the
right,
for the
officers,
and
"Bureau de Kenseignement."
The
soldiers
w^ork
proved to be
headquarters,
light linen
surrounded
by
beautiful
222
CAVE DWELLERS
now completely exposed
to
rode up to headquarters
flag;
large building
where the
MacMahon.
He
told
me
I
of the
at
Light Brig;ade,
whom
to real bachelor's
All over
the walls
curiosities collected in
these regions.
very comfortable.
At
last I
was able
In the meantime
Hamed
He
whence he
later to Gabes.
When
was dressed
I called
on the CommanderBillet, a
Commandant
young-
to be his guest.
I
When
told
him that
if
to
possible,
my
wish
by riding some
I
miles
south
should
probably have
my
223
as a telegram
left
he did
not know, but at any rate there was a chance for me.
my
I
whenever
desired
them
but he hoped
The garrison
company
small
and
detachment of
The
soldiers
officers
are
have
new
buildings.
There are no
all
women
is
domestic service
performed by
who
form
act as cooks
and chambermaids.
The
and
remarkably well, as
had occasion
same evening.
me
to
his mess.
There
we renewed acquaintance
After dinner
we adjourned
where we met
all
young and
old.
We
first
24
CAVE DWELLERS
Then we
here and
of
for
the
up.
convenience
those
who wished
climb
MEDININ.
\- Several of the
much
was extremely
difficult
to find one's
way through
the laliyrinth.
By
we had
to pass
in a court-
by
225
Through
loop-lioles in
a severe fire
might he kept up on an
attacking enemy.
A
but defence
sup-
is
j^osed
me
men about
but
f-
my
had
There they
live in tents
first
to sow, later to
watch their
fields,
and
harvest,
and store
|
intended for
a great
of
fortified granary.
At the time
my
visit,
month
of
hundred or two
thousand
men
arrive
and pitch
Ksar
in October, after
they have
and
millet.
The inhabitants
15
])elono;
to
CAVE DWELLERS
number some
fifty
thousand
souls,
They
possess
which
it
may
they care
plantations.
and
apricots
poor crops.
r^'
The mode of
life
of the inhabitants
and
their
perpetual
on
their
frontier
and
a firearm, which
possessions
It
is
and
cattle
there he
the
is
in safety. \
regard
with
mistrust
French
occupation
of
To
this
day
it
remains
for the
tribes
on either side
still
look on
own
;
and pleasure
227
The northern
especially
South of
this are
far-stretching
foot,
steppes,
No
paths
traced
to penetrate
them.
enter a territory
where any
as an
be regarded
enemy.
a junction with
by the Tripolitan
tribe of Nuail
Urghamma.
with
The Uro'hamma
apparently takes
ancients
havino-
its
from which continent Aurigha of the name the become Africa numbers some
trille
this
"
"
some
four
or
five
and
of
w^ere
exempted by
as
the
taxes,
they
had
])ound
defend
the
frontier.
228
CAVE DWELLERS
The
fact was, that
make armed
and gloried
mark
on their guns
man
they slew.
Guns covered
still
to
military
like peaceful
'
nomads.
in the plains of
Everywhere
now
lying
in
for
them no longer
exists,
The decay
of these
towers
known how
to establish
made
in
the
Urghamma
groups
in
and around
coast.
plains.
slopes
and on the
The
229
and on
We
visited the
Jews
in their
own
quarter,
and
lived
in
little
hut stuck
away
in
corner of a yard.
sayer,
One
of the
women was
a sooth-
whom
women and
It
We
^
built
in
of
slender
branches
wattled
and
many
places
The
fireplace
was
outside.
Comwere
mandant
present.
Billet, at
officers
Lieutenants
Adam,
Coturicr,
and
Druot
company
of Zephyrs, to
to Tatuin, a distance of
thirty-two miles.
They
invited
me
we
to breakfast with
at Bir el
Ahmer.
off as
is
au
revoir.
The
w^ater in
Medinin
1
Clicst.
230
CAVE DWELLERS
it
is
fit
to drink
a
;
huge
been erected
this has a
number
sentinel watches
it,
that the
precious liquor
may
not be wasted.
Not
far
from
which
is
also
the telegraph
office for
that the
connection
between
Gabes,
may
a
be constantly maintained.
strict
expedient that
watch be kept,
for
summons
flashed,
in replying to be trifled
Commandant
man
He
well
on horseback to inspect
all
is
him
pitch darkness to
is
make
a visit of inspection.
He
ubiquitous, and of an
then mounts
work
at his wTiting-
iron will,
me
231
Notwith-
Commandant
liis
Billet
left
his
bed and
accompanied
all
the outposts.
still 104.
When
was
On
tracts
trying conditions.
not
his
journey.
He
ture.
told
me
On
home
to
Ahnier.
When
he had ridden
his
After some
knew
that
by keeping along
way home.
to the great
But, alas
at Bir el
when
astonishment of the
who
evidently thought
:
he then
232
CAVE DWELLERS
As
in Algeria, the
army
to civilisation
But
their
work
is
far
from confined to
this alone
they plant trees and dig wells, and are soon followed
1)y
officials,
but above
all
by
the schoolmaster.
Where
we can
we
call to
mind
my little
called
Ali
his labours.
I
They were
in
energetic
soldiers.
There also
met the
a perfect gentleman
who spoke
faultless French.
tattooed
origin
;
mark on
he was a
his
Mohammedan and
Besides himself,
in
he lived
CHAPTER
XIII
28th October
the sun
I
was just
swung
and
Commandant
Billet
me
me
morning one of
the north.
The sun
tains
and
lit
up the moun-
which encircle
wall, and,
beautiful
uniforms,
but should \m
sands as a backo;round.
disappointing.
"
234
CAVE DWELLERS
We
foot's pace,
I
and
it
was
"Forward, forward"
shouted to
my
before
me
on
my
saddle.
My
handsome brown
in front of
The trooper
me
and
and stood
in his stirrups, as
tail
to the winds
like drumsticks," as
my
friend
the "Jgermester" at
home used
to say.
The red
Spahi followed.
My
him
in.
we slackened again
to
He
deuce
"Oh,
"
sir,
Nonsense
"
?
"No,
stallions,
sir; the
when they
Arab
on a mare."
we
descried,
beyond the
This
is
not
far
Ahmer."
hot, but, rain
having recently
235
we saw
had scattered
tion
to
There, where at
other
wont
to gladden the
women
to
till
the
fertile
by Allah
and
smoke from
from
all
their
rising
From
ahead,
the Marabout's
falls
away
level,
not far
we saw
little
tentes
d'ahri
We
horse and
new
The
men had
slept
food.
Lieutenant
Cultin,
Adam and
so
I
had
went
in
quest
of Lieutenants Coturier
and
Druot,
jour, camarade."
fed,
Whilst
watered,
were
unsaddled,
and
l)usied
himself
preparing
236
CAVE DWELLERS
fire
breakfast at a
in
was
The
officers'
con-
and
fort, or
It is
who
strolled about
sell to
He bad
barley to
those
who
"
required
it,
ments
well.
Moreover,
is
his
well
the Arabs
who
His
little
are
me
greatly,
succeeded in purchasing
I
from him.
huts
we saw an
two-wheeled
horses in
carts
all
ready
the shafts.
them
237
intense heat.
women
ac-
exquisite in
From
afar
we could
and anklets
We
ing "
them awhile
until, say-
En
mon
ami,"
my
friend took
my arm
where
plain,
We
drew
no one was
in sight
so
we
strolled
back to the
fort,
riders
Lieutenant
Adam had
shot
some
partridges,
their saddles.
w^as laden
with good
the
thing-s.
we
sat
down,
doctor
examined a
238
CAVE DWELLERS
of sick
;
number
men, of
whom some
hobbled up
unassisted
backs.
Not
the
Zephyrs
is
misconduct and
ments
in
time in Africa.
de corps
has burnt
is
its
ships
quite different.
it
localities,
and indeed
it
for
them
many bad
fear alone
Zephyr,"
if
he conduct himself
may
be sent
Li
home
he
fact,
may even
but this
is
itself,
French
told
me
that
the
difference
239
thief,
Legionary, even
thougli
lie
were a
he were not a
thief,
would certainly
learn to be one.
many
war
and
l)rilliant,
commanding
officers
must be
chiefs.
of the best
for
it
is
all
in
Alo^eria
and
Many
lieutenants
in vain to
be sent on
others
with
the
troops
in
Africa,
whilst
Every
as
year's service
regards
pension
and decorations.
I
Honour
because
they
had
had
sufficient
clief
hataiUon,
newly
arrived
all
from
France
where
of
the
earlier
portion
Indeed,
who
many advantages
a
little
over another
who
is
stationed in
provincial
it is
town
in
France.
As regards
Tunisia
intelligible,
many
240
CAVE DWELLERS
strain
but in
Alejiers
bit of Paris
My new
escort, sent
said farewell
There
miles to
still
remained
between four
and
five
cover,
loiter
on the
way
so
we pressed
alternately
walking and
mountains on our
el
Ah mer we
a well.
Raising themus
as
work
they saluted
we
passed.
we
the
At
of this
trees,
full
This
is
of palms,
we had already
made acquaintance
At
a
at
little distance,
As we rode
towards the
Bureau we met a
241
"
still
here
"
?
away."
Just as the sun set
I
group of
officers
The whitewashed
which
I
the Tuareg.
;
It
was a typical
lieu-
tenant's quarter
and
in
his
absence
rooms at
my
disposal.
Captain Beranger,
who was
to be relieved
the
to dine at the
officers,
the
post-
and an
There
I
officer of
engineers
were to dine.
After dinner
officers
at the
casino.
Arab
of
face,
Honour on
for
He
promised
I
me
good
to
I
horse
the
morrow when
took
my way
Tunisia.
Duirat,
the
southernmost village of
met
242
CAVE DWELLERS
me
I
Tuareg,
told
whom
so longed to see
little
but of this he
me
there was
hope.
CHAPTER XIV
DUIRAT
The
valley.
we
On
villages.
the top of a
hill to
our
left
were a couple of
To the
some
vaulted roofs.
An
ward the
Beni Barka.
This
is
a village
The houses
Yet a
little
farther on
in
village,
same
oblono;
vaulted
seen
to
at
it
also
be
We
plain
then
that
rose
solitary
To the west
244
CAVE DWELLERS
;
mountains
l)ut
to reach it
we had
to go
we saw
to the south.
later,
When,
found
tlie
we approached
this
mountain, we
never have
We
region,
horses'
slope,
way very
be
of
carefully
lest
our
steep
should
rocks
injured.
On
very
the
broken
tightly
packed
beetling
together,
and,
the
top,
great
crags
the precipice.
On
tall
of truncated
form.
To make a short
itself,
cut
was
terribly rough.
frightfully hot
we plodded
along,
my Spahis
chanting
now
Beyond
from a
Ijright, white,
last
" shott,"
tlie
heights
DUIRAT
I
245
my
ear.
my
At
last
saw, far
cliffs
away
overhanging
of an isolated peak,
some
dull,
j^:
DUIEAT.
evidently
in the
As we approached,
pure
fell
clear
and ringing
We now
north-westerly direction.
At
first
it
was impossible
to
distinguish
any
246
CAVE DWELLERS
we had
crossed the valley and
we made out
Below
it,
these,
we caught
a glimpse of
mountain
side.
through a small
doorway.
The
As
a rule, they do
;
not
suffice
for
the
requirements of a family
flat
an
roof
is
therefore built
cliff.
front of
Through
way
as
of the cave.
the
;
costly
undertaking,
and
the
cause
of
many
went
in
clever
whom
brought greetvisited
ings from
him
DUIRAT
As
was
I
247
limited.
managed
it
I
to
make out
his replies to
my
questions, but
took time.
The breakfast
ate in
and another
delicate bread
me
w^rote their
I
names
in
my
of
sketch-book, that
memento
them
in return
presented them
wdth
my
visiting-card, wdiich
inquired
about Hamed-ben-Amar's
relatives,
On
the wdiole
at Duirat.
The inhabitants
agriculture, as
w^ere
impression on
From him
to Shenini, a village
on the
summit
I
of a neiojhbourino- mountain.
am
the English
tribes
for
it
first
time
had heard
his
name mentioned
in these parts
originates as much
248
CAVE DWELLERS
father's
remarkable
manner of
native.
fearless nature,
It
and
lastly
he
I
is
an Englishman.
till
later, so in
young
J'^fe
^%?..^^
SHENINI.
Arab,
now
forsaken
The
smaller
walls,
built
of laro-e
slabs
minefled
with
stones,
side,
completely
enclose
the
to
town
on
every
high,
seven
nine feet
to
rendering
absolutely
inaccessible
an
enemy.
The
by climbing
DUIRAT
a covered
249
way
creep in on
all fours.
Then on
with
many
turn-
streets,
Now
roofs
all
lies
in ruins,
which
still
footing.
From
vale
to
plain,
the
southern horizon.
Looking
saw%
far
down
the
the precipice at
my
feet,
through
spreading
fires
smoke that
their
floated
upwards
from
the
on
hearths,
the
women
movino- in
the
Now
reached
however,
It
sounded almost as
close to
my
ear.
must
my
this
so distinctly.
life
How
little
wearisome
so
in
town,
near
the
to
VyTo
water
the
women
from
especially,
who had
it
fetch
daily
hard.
the valley,
One
who endured
difficulties
existence
of
their
such
a spot.
The very
250
CAVE DWELLERS
of
life
mode
made
their
bodies
supple,
their
down through
Ijack the
the
cliff.
dark
passages
we
By throwing
and
seeking
upper part of
my
body,
I
foothold
with
my
I
legs,
whilst
supported
reaching
buildings.
little
myself by
without
my
arms,
succeeded
tier
in
of
a picturesque
building,
the
courtyard
of
which
is
minaret.
I
began
to
make
a sketch of this.
My
guide
was down on
did
its
me
in a
moment,
two-franc piece
everything,
and
found a cistern
in
Pulling at a cord
that to the
attached to
the cistern,
discovered
end of
it
man
his
come up out
fist
of a cave, shouting
and shaking
at me.
My
and threatening.
Again
put
my
hand
in
my
as before.
DUIRAT
The Khalifa and the Sheikh awaited me
dwelling, and after a
little
251
in tlieir
and a and
stroll
in
their
company
the lanes,
to visit
ordered the
horses to be saddled.
As
set foot in
TENT
OF A TRIIJAL CHIEF.
forward with a
mouHon
It
horn,
which
he
I
begged
me
in
to accept.
had seen
told
the
mosque.
My
had
guide
had
evidently
AVhen
we
descended
into
the
valley
waved
252
CAVE DWELLERS
to Tatuin.
The
goats
My
careless,
the
his
Hies
worrying
I
head.
was
ris^ht
hand, causing
carry
it
to
;
swell,
and compelling me to
I
in
a sling
and thus
had to
ride
for
several days.
we reached
Tatuin a
little
before
sunset.
his
Lieutenant
Adam
CHAPTER XV
The Tuareg
I
DISMOUNTED
at
the
office
of
the
Intelligence
Department.
clad
In the archway a
to
number
of burnousoffice,
men waited
the
where
interpreter,
M.
Grosset
Grange,
and
My
who
hailed
from
far
in
and
near.
They were
fine
types, all
I
wrapped
for
Then
by
started,
!
yes,
Jove
two
black
kerchiefs
eyes
were
visible,
and sandalled
wore light
1)1
and,
am
ue
trousers.
of black
hair
covering.
They
Donau
came
I
253
out
to
receive
me.
ejaculated,
"Tuareg?"
254
CAVE DWELLERS
"Yes, certainly," he said
I
witli a smile.
while
Donau
fetched the
interpreter,
so
that be-
TUAltF.G.
the
I
Tuareg.
sat
At
first
could
face to
not realise
face
that
indeed
peacefully
THE TUAREG
the
desert,
255
ha,ve
and that
shoidd
the
their
luck
to
take
home
Museum
costume
true.
and equipment.
"
Do you
?
think
shall
clothes
" It
plied.
"
will
to
manage," he
re-
"The Tuareg
that
are suspicious,
and
will
not
their
understand
old
anyone would
fine
sooner
as
buy
rags
than
clothes,
such
you wear.
and they
home
in ordinary
iVrab dress."
" Very a
distant
well,
tell
them
am
a stranger from
country,
here
to
see
whether
as
my
people
may
I
theirs.
Tell
them
could
me
to
show
to
my
country-
men.
or, if
will
pay
for
their value,
I
will
undertake
Gabes, for
send
know
here."
interpreter
and
tough transaction.
It
Mohammed
ben
Mohammed.
The
conversation
256
CAVE DWELLERS
First I addressed the interpreter in French, he
for
in
the Berber
Mohammed.
the reply was returned in the same way.
to the
by the
pair,
of the
Azgu
tribe of Tuareg.
true
Tuareg
ring,
as
much
could hardly
be
Their proper
When
at
them
stared
me
together for a
divest
to
himself of his
burnous, for
which we bargained.
asked, his
As
he
by
l)it
scanty
of
shirt,
or under-
veil,
his
mouth
it
before others
would be a
breach of propriety.
But
in
the
had
THE TUAREG
have hud before their own people.
257
Now
I
and then
Akhemed,
as he talked,
his face,
and
know not
but
it
said
that the Tuareg do not care for beards, and therefore shave.
When
he rose to take
fine
;
those present
was some
shirt-like under-tunic
(akhebail),
above
it
(taiden).
which
;
were
wide
at
the
top
and
narrow below
(kortebba).
down
the calf
Sandals
(ghetimn)
of
tooled
leather,
with
A
head.
long,
narrow black
is
veil,
This veil
;
broad flap
head
is left
bare,
tuft of
hair (tadilmus).
is
258
CAVE DWELLERS
(ash shash).
Over
a "haik
"
this dress
is
worn an ordinary
light wrap,
made
of tin,
and apparently
They hung by
possession of them.
respect
But
my
endeavours in this
not
were unsuccessful.
Akhemed would
that
to
He
declared
him they
He
him from
possessed
"
dano;er
them no
sell
Then
me
your amulet."
this,
but
could
me
When
this
bouQ-ht
from
man,
it,
THE TUAREG
left hciiid
259
was an embroidered
leatlier ring,
and the
hilt of a
dagger
(tilek).
in
the
is
turned up
The handle
of the dagger
wire.
cross-shaped and
is
The
dagger
handy.
I
therefore,
bouo-ht
it
and a
of
laro;e
made
apparently
antelope
made
fast
with a
lock.
This
is
they rarely
or shields.
dromedary (mehari).
narrower,
is
also high
is
and terminates
in a cross.
The
and, as
I
cross
show by an
my
book called
relic of
supposed to be a
time when
this
people
were
Christians
and
26o
CAVE DWELLERS
regions whence they
purchased was,
The
was named
in piastres,
total, I
paid
the
so
without
trust
the
in
Tuareg
the
overlooking
account,
entire.
their
interpreter
being
sig;n
M.
Grosset
Grange told
all
me
that
these
two
just
Tuareg examined
like
them
his
children.
first
room
they at
examined everything.
window was
vestigated,
closed
The handle of
your father
Commandant
Billet
told
me many
life,
amusingare so
who
and who
Once
" Targui
to
"
"
(the
singular
of
Tuareg)
happened to come
"
him
THE TUAREG
Yes,
it
261
so an
to
lie
enough
seven ordinary
When
had consumed
this
l)y
whom
no,
he was as generously
One might
satisfied
;
l)ut
and
Avas
inconceivable
man
could
swallow so
much
had never
On
several
it is
always a move
may
lead farther.
It
would be
to
the
signal
advantage of the
to
the Sahara
from Rhadames
other
or
towns of
as
now, via
lies
Tripoli.
The
that
chief
impediment
at
present
in
the
fact
the
not profitable.
The
CAVE DWELLERS
which the
ill
262
etc.,
last
though
small quantities
were
disposed of with
will
difficulty in
not
trial.
No
that
traffic
through the
Sahara
In
may
be
fact, so
long
A TUAIIEG.
long
does
when read
of in heartrending
Toms
Cabin.
The
THE TUAREG
as tliey were
263
by decree
The transport
horrors, Ijut
is,
indeed,
full
of
when once
quite otherwise.
in
in
Sheikh who
^
" Imauo'hasat."
The
letter
elder of these,
named Uan
Titi,
brought a
to
the
officer
in
command
of the military
station
at Tatuin,
in
As
it
was
politic to
show
a friendly disposition,
but
it
who was
cause of great
is
free
who
sets
w^ere
afraid of again
coming
tril)e
of
Uderma,
is
evident from
Khalifa of Duirat to
'
1)eo;
him
September 1893.
264
CAVE DWELLERS
went no farther north than
Tatiiin,
emissaries
and
had
whether
Uan
Sahara.
Titi
winter in the
He had
conducted the
named, who,
Mry had
whom
united
Imaughasat
had
have some
According to
in
Uan
Titi's
That by Rhadams
important.
may
be considered
most
whom
present,
come
to
The Turks
acknow-
and
as the people of
Rhadames
ministration, these do
their
power
to destroy
the
little
trade there
is
them
to Gabes.
THE TUAREG
For the moment the
in
Tiuii-eg place
265
no obstacles from
the
way
of persons
who venture
to travel
is
who
is
French
is
oasis.
Tlie traveller
who desires
which
Romans had
constant intercourse
;
if
he has
there,
he
is
sure to be admitted
is
the journey on
camel
back
none
the
The French
Rhadams and
Officers
explore
the
southern
frontier.
have
reconnoitered the country from the southern mountains to far into the desert.
Commandant
Billet in
On one
of these expeditions
in the
eighty
An
interpreter
like a native,
further, a
Mohammedan, was
sent to
266
CAVE DWELLERS
far as
as
Rhadams.
His mission
failed
entirely.
He was
to Tripoli,
from whence,
after
much
difficult negotia-
was obtained.
West
the belt
of the
of
of shotts
a steppe
number
as far as
Rhadams
is
few
earlier
it,
travellers
may
possibly
have
passed
through
the desert
traversed
by two French
I
officers,
cannot
exactly as
heard
it
related
by Major Gausset
in
Gabes.
Lieutenant
the
6tli
Dumas
majou
the
Engineers,
both
courageous
and
desert, to
Rhadams.
for permis-
THE TUAREG
and, accompanied
desert, both in
])y
267
l)ut
no
sooner had they reached the gates than they were driven
oft'
coming
had
been
announced by some
shortly
they did
l)ut as
they
thought
it
possible
that
and attacked on
their
having suftered
reduced at
thirst
they were
pangs of hunger
they succeeded
home.
unknown
They resumed
their exploit
duty
in silence, but a
rumour of
He
that
demanded
an
explanation,
with
the
result
268
CAVE DWELLERS
received
off.
they
slight
official
reprimand
soon
shaken
Since
Duveyrier
undertook
his
memorable
Les Touaregs
dtt
as
young
Swiss, of
whom
to
be
thinker and
for
philosopher of no
mean
order,
came
the
first
life
Bedouins.
existence
years.
He was
that
so
charmed with
nomad
three
He
in
them
and
But the
purchased palm
settled
trees,
and
down
in the
"Targui."
He
THE TUAREG
south as far as Rliadams, but neither was he
to gain admittance to that town.
269
al)le
While on
this
Each year,
last time, in
after a visit
home, he returned.
The
May
home he
down
officers
ill.
The French
hospital, but he
for
and started
I
the
north.
During
my
left in
charge of an Arab,
and
to again
" II
est
resume
un pen
the officers at Gabes said of him. In truth, there are the free
life
many who
are attracted
by
that
is
where no one
is
one place
is
unpleasing, you
move
to another
flocks
men who
rove in the
many
south
in its
deadly embrace,
sat
in
the
270
CAVE DWELLERS
"
rOasis
ride.
after
my
exhausting
The hxndlord, M.
Saissy, a
man
I
of al)Out fifty,
who
had
trifled
was absorbed
it
in, for
me and me from
my
Sir
(
a pleasant journey.
replied
in
the
affirmative,
sketch of
my
"
travels
mountains
expedition.
not
little
confess,
I
of
my
asked
in conclusion.
''
No,
followed as
should
This
my
wife and
agreed to do.
By
degrees
we organised
make
it it
pay we have
to be careful,
Gabes
Good heavens
thouoht
1,
how
dull
never to
"
THE TUAREG
have a change and look about one a
"
bit
it
;
271
but
I said,
to
go south
woukl
interest
to be there just
I
when two
whose equipments
l)e
bought."
I
once saw."
and when
Ah, yes
then,
it
was quite
young
from home.
came about,
but eventually
started
Sahara in
was
not so
difficult to
penetrate there.
We
hunted with
the Tuareo^."
"
far
" Yes,
do not
exactly
know how
far,
but
The natives
successful,
and we
made money
"
Once
my
for I
have
always
life.
It
was
wife
my
and
for it
!
is
no,
see, I
indeed
But
You
CAVE DWELLERS
Most of them
])eliave
272
travellers.
badly for
tliey
Some
rely on force
a mistake
it is
would take a
my
else.
knew
well.
listen
!
Good heavens
conduct and
all
till
well,
but she
No believe
way
me
it
is
eas}'
enough to push
natives.
"
have been
cattle
but escaped.
I
He
simply stole
when he
required them."
We
gathered
much
as
in-
formation with
recollections
many
interesting
details,
old
and we
sat together
and
then
Saissy promised
me
note
down
his
recollections,
I
which are to be
them
1
later
THE TUAREG
On my
referring to the great desire I
273
to visit
Rhadams some
future year
"
I
liatl
you,"
am
pay me only
my
my
ahsence, and
will
accompany you.
You may he
assured that
"
From
Nous
Tripoli
"
asked.
" "
Of course from
verrons,
Tripoli."
M. Saissy."
And
so
we went
came
to hed.
to
When me and
"
I left,
gave
will
You
to
a decision."
18
CHAPTER XVI
Back to Tunis
In the course of the night a telegram arrived, orderino-
Dr.
Cultin
to
return
with
me
next day to
ill.
We were
scorching hot.
my purchases
el
we hurried homewards.
After a halt near Bir
fasted,
gress
was
But
Medinin.
was
after
nightfall
when we reached
the lieutenant
we met
of the Spahis,
who
was worse,
in a carriage to Gabes.
away
and
who came
me
some of the
I
officers.
expressed
my
BACK TO TUNIS
tion
I
275
trip to
for
my
memorable
for
an expedition to Zarsis
to decline with
many
bade
my
my
hat
in
a final
Commandant
far as
Billet
accompanied
me
nearly as
" Should
Tripoli
you ever go
to
Ehadames by way of
route,
this
you would be
heartily welcome,
this
best
I
way home,"
said the
commandant.
replied that
for all
kindness.
Then
rode with
my
me
in.
I
continued in a north-westerly
of the
foot
mountain of the
country north
;
and thence by a
hilly
the
and
On
hills
saw ruined
276
CAVE DWELLERS
remains.
Roman
soldiers
well,
We also
were encamped
as
for the
hill
purpose of digging a
and
we ascended a
us.
swinging towards
Before
behind
it
another.
The
carriage
it
was
as
It
soldiers
acted
face.
From
husband at Zarsis
the
way
urged on
my
horse to
little
caravansarai where
we were
Soon
to
it
became
For a
lono-
dim
figures
At
and
last,
at
shone
its
dogs
barked
we
passed
amongst
palms.
After riding in
longer,
the
still
We
were to rest
BACK TO TUNIS
111
277
the caravansarai
wliicli resenil^lcd
that of Bir
el
Alimer
Spalii
me with
fresh horse.
The
who
and
;
They came
out,
received
our
horses
conducted
raised on
me
to an officer's room.
native,
who was
to the oasis to
buy me some
candles.
The
soldiers
till
and
dined, after
dividing with
I
with which
in
four soldiers
drew up
in
and
bread
to
and dates
soldiers,
to
the
1
the
which
mugs they
whom
meat.
278
CAVE DWELLERS
" Right about face,
marcli
"
involuntarily,
at once vanished
the door.
my
When
and took
had finished
my
repast I
lit
a cigarette
a turn
at the horses,
which
to be un-
sino;ino;.
hand
for
if so,
in.
agreed willingly
sat
so they
came
in,
each carrying
his
mug, and
After
I
life
I
;
also
knew some-
thing of
Afterwards
refilled their
chatted again
little
with
wish-
them,
ing
me
I
wrapped myself
my
burnous and
slept,
but
BACK TO TUNIS
was disturbed,
first
279
horses,
and
later
yoked
in
the yard.
Before
it
was broad
awake.
The
coffee that I
drank with
and
it
my
burnous,
got into
in
my
the
after
having
inscribed
my name
The
and saluted
for the
as I
me
happy journey.
mountains.
After a couple of hours
oasis,
we
Here the
far
and
see the
palm
Presently the
rose,
in our
When we
the Marabout's
tomb
28o
CAVE DWELLERS
liad
and
passed
its
palms,
we
saw,
through dust
waved
in a long
unbroken
line
from east to
Soon
Gabes.
after,
we
and
thirsty, at
In the afternoon,
cases all
when
had collected
announced.
the country,
Arab
visitors
were
Hamma,
by three
of the
Matmata mountain
was
in the
sheikhs.
that
me much,
all
of a
^
my
to the best of
ability
and a third on
coffee
my
late experiences,
thanked them
and received
the reply
"
You
will
am now going home," I said, " l)ut perhaps some day I may return, and then, my friends, I
" I
"
"
BACK TO TUNIS
will .seek you,
281
in
the
so,
mountains towards
Khalifa
"
?
Hamma.
Is
it
not
As you
will, Sidi.
We
shall be wanting,"
When
Captain
office
later in the
day
Simon
at the
full
Bureau Arabe,
found the
crammed
of Arabs,
pushed
my way
all
through them
I
recognised.
In short, nearly
How
is
"
said
?
the
captain.
"
Do you
" they
know
with pride
my
On
the
2nd November
left
for
the
north
My
cases,
good
Hamed
and
the
figure
me
faithfully
with
my
packing
embarkation of
my
I
numerous
and
liis
could distinguish on
the pier-
north,
and reached
Ijoard
officers
was pleasant
with
us, but,
282
CAVE DWELLERS
I
missed
my
We
call
The cavalry
in a boat to
officers of
came out
us,
dined on board,
comrades,
or
their
To
twice a
week
faces
is
The
sight of fresh
were
officers
of
the
Tirailleurs,
and their
for a
newly promoted
his
way
to Tunis
to
meet
It so
his wife.
happened that
in
he, as a
young
lieutenant,
had
served
South
Oran
throuo;h
the
same
as
campaign,
myself, so
same detachment,
recollections in
friends.
At Susa he
comrades, but
I
invited
me
to
Generally
these
quarantine
officials
regulations
were
utterly senseless.
The
BACK TO TUNIS
connected
witli
283
shipping
who wished
to land
on board.
He
told
me
Yet he absolutely
damp
heat of
rise as
high
though
is,
it
was
Want
of sleep
effect of
this climate, as it
system.
I
by
letter,
it
when
that
would be right
me
to call on the
French
JNlinister
Resident, Rouvier,
;
who had
just returned
from France
and
thank them
me
to assist me.
At Susa
received
telegram to the
effect
me
next
284
CAVE DWELLERS
at
morning
conduct
nine
o'clock,
and
would
afterwards
me
" Shall
captain.
we
He hoped
To our
and
to the right
;
Marsa, and
Goletta,
on the sea-coast.
Beyond
we
At
eight o'clock
canal
water;
so wT)rking
it
ship in
this
harl)Our
to
time
w^as
therefore
twenty minutes
nine
before
A
I
carriage took
me
full
found
my
luggage and
changed
my
the
clothes.
1
kept
my
appointment
punctually
to
moment.
CHAPTER XVII
Tunis
as
;
an unof
his
attired
in
black
offer
no opinion.
He had
only
received
him favourably.
all
achieved
grounds
those
know
not.
In any case,
that he,
to
all,
it
is
said
by
now began
to
l)e
manner.
man's
He had
is
perhaps
one's
that
every
friend
no
my
respects to M. Rouvier,
ill,
and
me
and
waitino-
Mussulmans.
M. Rouvier
is
newly appointed
to
2S6
286
CAVE DWELLERS
received me, and with an insinuating
interpreter,
and
his,
my
right
hand
it
in
both of
assuring
me
is
gave him to
see me.
Valenci
tailor
;
by
birth
Jew,
how,
until
know not
and
he
in
command
of a soldier,
much
less of a division.
As a matter them
The Bey's
entire
army now
whom
man
is
in
old days.
Seldom have
seen
;
breast
olitter
with
so
many
orders as Valenci's
front,
his brilliant
uniform was
in
at
crosses,
many European
Powers, whose
him
to the Bey.
that he
only an
officer.
TUNIS
It
287
prai,se
is
due to him
and extraordinary
discretion, on
French occupation.
who
at one
and
for Foreig;n
to
the
and
also
Representative
of
France
that
Bey
shadow
king.
think,
strike
with
Whilst M.
Rouvier
stood beside
the
Bey,
named
Khalifas
my journey
in the south.
The Bey
replied,
pleasure at
my
He
who
shook
me warmly by
now
led out
like a
tion days.
Officially
speaking,
the
Bey
but,
reigns
in
over his
subjects without
interference,
f\ict,
he
is
bound
to
will.
288
CAVE DWELLERS
Tlic
Commander-in-Chief
is
in Tunisia, a Brigadier-
General,
at the
all
for
l)y
War
thus
posts
are
filled
Frenchmen.
provinces,
Civil
Governors in
his
whom
are
Khalifas,
and under
of these.
in
supreme power
watched by the
the
and the
Intelli-
manao-ed in
accordance with
the
will
of
the
French,
and
the
Governors
are
freed
from
responsiljility in the
conduct of
afi'airs.
put
aside,
and trade
flourishes,
roads have
arrive.
been
French
occupation,
the
tribes
in
One
of
these
parties
termed
itself
the
Bey's,
At the head
dependent
of
as
the inin
Beni Zid,
Hamma, who
TUNIS
The French
well received
traveller
Pellissier,
289
in
his
time,
was
by them on that
score,
him
cousin.
Some
was
Again
offered
it
these
independent
to
triljcs
who
armed
resistance
the
French,
though
much
After
the
conquest
of
the
thirty
country, some
thousand
emiorated
frontier
of
them
the
across
into
Tripoli,
We
that
have
on
seen
of
the
tribe
Urghamma,
Tripolitan
the
frontier,
moorish avomen ix a stueet in
tuni.s.
adhered ostensibly to
the
returned to
letters,
my
an
First a
glanced
through
my
I
and,
after
bath
and
having dressed,
at which
I
enjoyed
excellent Ijrcakfast,
met M. Gauckler,
various purchases,
who promised
19
to help
me make
which promise he
faithfully kept.
On
the whole,
290
CAVE DWELLERS
all
his valuable
assistance.
As
I
it
turned
out that
many
of
the
photographs
failures,
he handed
me
photographed
and
which had
in
in great part
me
with
all
those that
I I
selected,
pleased.
Thanks
generosity,
am
able to
adorn
my
these
interesting
pictures.
He
also
of bargaining on
my
to
pack
had bought.
my
absence
back some
museum
at Bardo.
Under
his
law now
foreign
countries.
Still,
made,
with
I
my
absence in the
;
but, on
paying
visits,
amongst others
TUNIS
to
291
long
expected
my
also
return.
foLuul
him
ill
France," where
invited
on
his
wife.
i
They
the
me
to spend a
I
country, where
had an
for
opportunity of thanking
Drummond Hay
his
my
and
and,
notwithstanding
all
the
kindness
it
hospitality so generously
shown me,
might have
had a
ftir
SUPPLEMENT
The Tribes
of Tunisia
point
A
of
Synopsis
actual
entire
From
geographical
view the
in
features
it
does
not
differ
from the
its
in Algeria, and,
tablelands,
and the
l:)elts
and
flora.
But Tunisia
its
is
For
it
is
that
the
oases
about
to the Mediterranean,
and
though virtually
yet
feel
one
sea.
may
the
mild
influence
of
the
is
in a geological
in
sense
reality
of Southern Europe,
292
of which the
293
The
climate,
lit-
it
may
only
whole country
about
76.
The winter
lasts
]\Iay to
October.
Bon
to
Cape Nun,
races,
is
everydiffer
who
in origin, customs,
and
character.
fruitful
valleys
of the
northern
coast
peopled
hy nomads
in
the agriculturist
in
the
southern mountains
different races
and
the oases.
in
All these
have
their
settled
those
spots
where,
according to
circumstances
most
means of
existence.
l)een
heavy
in their
movements
to
asseml)ling
invarial)ly
left
succumbed
Arabia,
moved from
A
in
great
number
Tunisia,
brought
from
the
Sudan
294
J
CAVE DWELLERS
They
are everywhere closely intermingled
as slaves.
The
latter
mixed race
is
althougli
comin
posed of
general
life,
many
races
intermingled,
j
it
assumes
common
resemblance,
Their
mode
of
habits,
hygiene, and
race."^
duced a hybrid
of Moors,
and
Berber towns.
of
In accordance
with
the
results
the latest
sketch
of the
different
peoples
who
at
the
The Berbers.
population
The
indigenous
comprised in
the
faces of Tunisia,
as Berbers,
may
They
are
races
common
this,
and remarks that whereas the Libyans and Ethiopians were the original inhabitants of North Africa,
the Phoenicians and Greeks were immiojrants.
It
distinction
was made
295
groups of Berbers
it
It
was not
until
men
in later years
the famous anthropologists, Doctors Collignon and Bertholon, had succeeded in throwing light on the
native languages, that a
to
led
a correct solution
peoples,
I
he
is
present
President
" Institut
of
the
Geographical
de Carthage."
From
his
my
tion
acquired
from
I
his
predecessors, I think
cipal
am
groups.^
Within
these
again
included
here.
1.
(of the
Neanderthal
type).
present
day
;
live
is
in
olden
times
that
the
southern
oases
the
dc la
home
of the date-palm.
l)e
famille chez
premiers hahitants
cle
Exploration
anOiropoloffiquc dc la Kliroumirie.
296
CAVE DWELLERS
El Jerid, to
tlie
inlial)ited
mentions
and regarded
them
LThey
are a peaceful
race,
who
cultivate
their gardens
palm
trees^l
whom
themselves.
they
have
frequently
been
})ro-
tribesj
C^They
their
has
liad
regular
marriage law,
for
little
meaning
them,
women
men
of
men
to form
connections.
Formerly, deceived
in the oasis of Gofsa
;
in fact,
it
was cus-
most compromised
respect.
his election.
He
297
Thus
lie
was
to
the great
amusement
of
own
satisfaction.
in Tunisia
and Algeria
not only he
word signifying
who
is
who
is
or long-
the Iberians,
types.
this
group closely
re-
in the
is
Mediterranean
tendency toward
Drahm
all
in
north-west Tunisia,
less
type prevails,
no
than
forty-one
last
murders
and
assaults
were
committed
This
mitted by natives.
exists also
Mediterranean.
It is startling to observe that this
temperament
298
CAVE DWELLERS
brown doliehocephalous peoples
are found.
in
common
to
warlike
disposition,
their
devotion
agriculture,
and
their
pronounced clannishnessTj
to Tunisia,
Khrumirs,
the
most
typical
of
the
into
tribes
three
composed of
five
thousand and
whom
w^ere
men
capable
of
bearing arms.
three
armed men
tribe
The
Nefza
the
same
province
had
innumerable chiefs of
clans.
{^A
Mediterranean
whatever
may
The Khrumirs
Their relioion
is
Mussulmans only
to
in
name.
fast
confined
observino;
all
the
unbelievers.
They never
ritual.
saints to
whom
of these
peculiar influence
is
attri])uted,
and
who
One
299
who
he punished
Some punish
jx-rj urers.
to oppose the
is,
1881,
of
like
many
One
celebrated
for
the
cure
is
fevers.
In short,
all
Amongst
slack,
the
Khrumirs,
family
ties
are
very
woman
burden.
Marriage
In
be
dissolved
with
the
greatest facility.
many
tribes a
man
can take
any
sort
of authority.
When
the
price
agreed on
is
paid, the
man
takes his
Among
his
the
Ushetta
is
peculiar
custom holds.
plunder
"duar"
they
another meal
continuing
until
The woman
is
300
CAVE DWELLERS
man
is
has offered
for
her a
higher price.
as,
doul)le
payment,
when
couple
is
compelled
to
separate, the
purchase
money
[
not returned.
is
Xhe
of the
narrowest.
who
has
last
can read,
what
even
pottery-making
unknown7|
are extremely quarrelsome,
The Khrumirs
are always fighting
and
among
themselves.
No market
is
The
common.
the
abduction
of
women
Ijy
armed men
of
women
connections.
great
number
of these
nomads have,
therefore, as mistresses
Khrumir
both
far
and wide,
to
and even
ment
inflicted
;
on a
woman whose
oujlt
was
dis-
covered
venture to
but she
is
severely chastised, or
301
forced
pay
to the betrayed
KStill
for
which
he bought her.
women
many
a murder.
in
all
its
consequences prevails
In
some
tribes
it
was
the
custom when a
his
death
had
Ijeen
sufficiently
sheep.
Kinsmen and
and
all
those
who partook
of the
meat united
in
an oath to
but
Blood money
(dia) existed,
When
were
fellowship.
it
suited them,
all
individual differences
So
lately
as
when
all
the
Auvergne was
were comIn
on
their
board
shoes.
even to
1885,
when another
its
Needless
Even
in
1888 an
officer's
Ain Drahm,
in the
Khrumir mountains.
302
CAVE DWELLERS
The prevalence of
theft has originated a peculiar
mode
gain
of earning a livelihood.
their
Certain individuals
subsistence
entirely
by pursuing
and
track of the
animals,
cover where
ofter
fear,
booty
concealed.
if
They often
these
show signs of
when they
thief,
all-important.
Khrumir.
The
latter
had ordered
to
all
culprits
When
the Bey's
were received
when they
cut
;
men
Even
since
the
THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA
broken
out.
303
who
con-
to
make
men were
and wounded.
this
To
own
chiefs,
them.
off
Like practical people they sometimes palm on the authorities a decrepit old man, who
instead of the actual murderer.
is
hung
to
against
French,
Khrumir
if
we must bear
short
in
mind
that, according to
of Gtuli
and
Berbers of
Cro-Magnon type)
In
known
as the Numidians.
Thus
to
live in settled
The
fair-haired
Berbers
(Brachycephalous
is
found
in
Spain and
304
(h)
CAVE DWELLERS
Brachyceplialous
Beriders
of
the
Ligurian
the ishxnd
again,
;
type.
In
Tunisia
the
of Jerba, in
l)ut
they
are
also
scattered
the
interior
of the
country.
They
and
akin
old
to the
Celtic
Mozabit
cognate
the
to those of the
Mediterranean
is
very striking.
The brachycephalous
of light complexion,
ally sj)eaking,
known amongst
^
is,
compara-
The peaceful
and
some
others
remarkably good
is
seamen.
The region
civilised
they inhabit
therefore
more highly
than
of
soldiers
the
4tli
Ijattalion
amongst these
305
easily
commanded
Tunisia
On
alone
are
is
agriculturist
in
is
tribes.
l)ut
This
there
remarkable connecting
link,
many
that on
As
the
Auvergnats,
the
Savoyards,
and
the
a
for
money
in various
ways
in
European
towns
seen
how
many
?
little
formerly in
Denmark with
and marmots
so
of
Eastern
Tunisia,
or
of
the
Matmata
l)uy
few head of
cattle,
wife.
I
For
a
instance, at the
Grand Hotel
Tunis
found
couple of
born democrats.
Between
Thus there
spirit,
combined
20
with
great superstition,
equally
306
CAVE DWELLERS
Roman
Catholic Auverernats
amonQ;st the
and the
Mohammedan KabaiL \ L On my way to Tunis I passed through Auvergne, where I observed many old villages built on the tops
of
hills.
mountains,
had seen
in
Southern
may remark
that in
many
places on
monuments
home
in
Denmark
alsoTi
many
different
races,
it
is
when
mingled.^v
Still
there
may
who
bear, in
marked
lie
for
instance,
the
One
is
whom
in direct contrast
307
nomads
live as
but
those
who have
i-epublican in
thought and
They were
originally governed
by a
"
Jemaa,"
made
in
regarded as law
the
in
even
disappearance of their
is
distinct
now
sup-
the
ancient
in
characters.
Also
found
it
still
spoken
many
written
lanouaoe
is
is
in the
main
3o8
CAVE DWELLERS
new
dialects
is
who
call
may
my scribed my
In
book, Algeria
and
the
Sahara,
de-
and at the
will
of French
travellers,
supplementary commentary on
in
the
status
of
woman
these
is
desert
tribe
com-
Mohammedan
Tuareg;
woman
exercises a
decided rioht of
Indeed, without
unless
she
in the
Western Sahara,
it
monogamy
rise to
is
has given
"
two wives
^
Touareg de
V Quest;
Lc Sahara Algerien,
309
Mohamis,
medans,
besides,
is
very
of accomplishment.
It
can
two
;
married
pair.
is
him
is
at meals,
and can
an Arab woman.
Whilst the
man
home
But
is
this
is
not
all,
old
traditions,
highly
in
enlightened,
and
far
in
advance of the
men
and
she
In short,
is
it
is
who
ac(|uainted with
as the
their literature,
women
when the
tribes
women
in ancient
days.
In the battlefield
it is
scorn
make
the utmost
3IO
CAVE DWELLERS
chose their husbands from amongst the bravest
who
warriors."
side
alone ennobles,
and
wife.
the
children
belong to the
family
of
the
acknowledged as
free born,
whereas the
But,
man
remains a slave.
have created a
labour.
entire
own
property.
man
to his
women
death.
is
not tolerated,
it
is
order of his
dissolute
1)rother
mourned
for
On
droit
du seigneur from
is
mentioned by Herodotus as
311
The western
picable.
Tuareg;
re<>"ard this
custom as des-
dowry,
for
amount.
and a
complete costume.
in
common
with those of
Iberians of antiquity.
a
The woman
is
rules
and controls
The husband
her
head servant,"
who
The Arabs.
The Arabs
nearly
all
nomads.
They
reside
chiefly
in
the
They
tall,
shmder
figures,
their lean,
l)y
their dignified
nobility of carriage.
The Arab
cast of countenance
is
312
CAVE DWELLERS
The Arab woman
is
endowed with
is
a pretty, well-
formed
figure,
but she
of small stature.
She
is,
on the whole,
too
weak
to
collect his
own
nomad Arabs
auxiliary troops.
oil,
In return
bands
( Jisli)
who
frequently harassed
the country.
tlicirs.
Were they
were
own
This collection
The
diff"a "
least of their
and "alfa,"
of
this
they
often
took
advantage
to
the
greatest
extent,
pillaging
wherever
they
appeared.
The
ab-
women and
girls is
common, and
313
receives in
young
girl is
life
much
that
to us appears offensive.
God"
(el
fulfil
After the
slaves,
the
men
in
some
tribes
married
their
neQ;resses,
But
it
befell
aliens,
They had
steadily spread
themselves over
all
tlie
Thus each
tribe continually
changed
territory,
farther westward.
Long
l)efore
Mohammed's day
it
this
immigration
after his
was not
until
made any
real
314
CAVE DWELLERS
its
conversion to
Mob am
the
Not
until
much
later,
in
tlie
middle of
which
l)oth
included.
a counter wave. of
When
on
tide
the
Atlantic
the
Morocco,
the
turned.
all
Thus the
tribe
that
precisely
Yet another
"
recedino-
Arabs
"
who were
most part
tide,
for the
carried
westward by the
long sojourn
after
on
the
blended
with
other
races
refugees,
who
known
in
new
strain
into
tlie
country so often
315
to this
])e
foreigners
who
day
an
found in Europe.
make war
Christian.
Amongst them-
Mohammedanism.
Thouoh
it is
races of Berbers
their identity,
it is
habitants appear, as
race.
it
This fusion
is
Mohammedanism
Mohammed, through
daily labour the
the
way moulded
all
who
thus became
life,
mode
of thought and
all
to one pattern,
hereditary inclinations
still
The
marked
3i6
CAVE DWELLERS
The stubborn
influence of Islamism on the com-
munity
(it is
is
Mektub
"
written).
all initiative,
all
is
progress.
act
is
immaterial.
" It
written."
is
of divine origin.
to
ordains
that
authority.
"
The
chosen of
Tunisia,"
God and
down
to the lowest of
then
The
influence of relioion o
insane,
is
ment
sacred.
is
of the
The number
not
madman
in
under a ban.
This indi-
from their
hinges.
lines
317
nomad
tribes,
who were
destined
to be great conquerors.
He
were killed
or, if fortunate,
made
slaves, the
women
were allowed
To ensure unity
in
many and
man
lie
is
invested with
who becomes
she
property.
He
is
maltreat her,
her
if
is
own
more
head.
All that
he owes her
is
Crimes
fear of the
asjainst
women
;
are
rare
now throuoh
legal census,
French
but as there
is
no
Rehgious influence
first
and foremost,
also life in
common under
characteristics
equal conditions of
many
generations
of the
many
natives
of
Tunisia.
Many
tribes
tri])es
many Arab
there
it
is
Indeed,
are
well
known
some
are Berbers,
some Arabs.
3i8
CAVE DWELLERS
Of the
relig;ions l)rotlierlioods, so
numerous
else-
in
We
" Medaniya,"
these,
many
scat-
is
in
who can
read
l)its
of rag
all
over
many
fear the
as a peculiarly lucky
number.
For
this reason
five fingers
on their
not un-
Indeed,
it
is
common
if
for a
man who
has
name an unlucky
number.
If rain
is
cism,
and
will
in a
fountain
so
that
beard
may
be wetted
that
The Moors.
Nowhere has
all
319
(juite
new
race of
town
dwellers,
which
may
all others.
new
the Arabs,
Amongst
who were
still
Seville
and Granada.
They have
but
still
and retain
forefathers
in
Spain.
The
gardeners of " Teburka," for instance, are descendants of the gardeners of the Guadalquivir, and the
forefathers of the potters near Nebel were potters at
Malaoa.
The blood
also
of
slaves
of
all
nationalities
has
as
been
introduced
into
the
people
known
Moors.
is
fair,
or,
more
olive
it
Southern
is
Italian or Spaniard.
oval
320
CAVE DWELLERS
Of medium
is
and
their carriage
They
are considered
Christians,
Jews or
kind
for their
Thou oh
clever
is
workmen
In
not high.
nothing was
made by
as represented
by the Bey
have
in Tunisia.
No
In
in the country.
and
Tunisian
women
they
are
called
" Kurughis,"
and are
lazy, vain,
consequently not
much
respected.
dwellers, on the whole,
their
manners are
are lazier.
is
prevalent.
321
who covered
left
it
with towns,
no impress of them-
nor do there^ survive amongst the tribes any traditions concern in o- them.
No more
in early
and
Arab.
The
country of Semitic
To
this
is
due
on
that
many
of the
types
portrayed
now found
scattered
as
the Phoenicians
may
be
earliest of
whom
as
pro])ably
came
to Barbary at the
same time
the former,
later,
after
it
Moreover,
known
that
many
Arab
is
The
classic
therefore rarely
met with
After the
cally,
Mohammedans
They
322
CAVE DWELLERS
island
of Jerba.
Spain
and Portugal
much
families
;
abjured
Judaism and
still,
became Mohammedans
but they
Other Jews
those
their
of Jerba,
for
instance
have
Jews
Mohammedan
and hold
Marabouts
in honour.
A
who
tected
are under
by the
knew
old
days.
!r^ow
Some-
323
They
and
of a good opportunity
when
there
is
a prospect of
making money,
or
is
when
there-
their trade
fore in great
may
be extended.
Commerce
increase
rapidly.
a " ghetto,"
It
become too
over
all
small,
many
is
of their shops.
an interesting study,
and one
they so
is
astonished to find
how
in
many
respects
little
countries.
COSTUMES
The Dress of the Countrywomen
(Arabs
Berbers)
the
Over
the
wliole
of
Tunisia
countrywomen,
whether
Arab
or Berber,
in olden
days.
The
dress
of
consisted
(TrevrXo?),
the
ancient
Greece
^
by a
on
belt
about
the
waist
{^mvt]),
and supported
and
eVexat).
the
shoulders by pins
dress,
{irepovai
As head-
head band
The
stuff
without
The
dress
It
of a
Tunisian
woman
of to-day
is
the same.
consists of a
" m'lhalfa,"
which
re-
wound round
From
O-^v")
entirely
is
covers
the
One end
hrouiiht O
;
over
other
skirt.
the
down
in
front
the
'O
is
and hancfs
limbs, and
forms a
The
piece
so long-
that
sides.
it
hangs in
folds,
was held
to-
gether by
over
the
breast.
The
Grecian
woman's neck
the contrary
But
it is
woman.
drawn forward.
Many
drapery
Tunisian
women
draw^ the
breast,
;
form a
full
others, as in the
Matmata
villages,
omit
this,
thin
square
l)y
of
stuff
"katfia."
This
is
secured
moun-
the
"m'lhalfa"
in
is
of stuff
worn one
front
laid
rather
The
"m'lhalfa"
a
long woollen
generally
white or
of
some
bright colour.
The
dark
l)lue
woollen
material,
l)ut
for
festivals
or
326
CAVE DWELLERS
red,
yellow, or parti-coloured
cotton, or wool.
is
round
this
is
wound
stuft'
ornamented with
is
or
trinkets.
Over
this
cloth,
again
in
thrown a
often embroidered,
enveloped (begnuk).
Generally speaking, the Tunisian
women wear
life
no underclothing, at
the
country.
all
in
On
has
rule,
festive
especially
in
It
very
wears
short
one.
or
no
sleeves.
A
shirt
bride,
as
a
is
The
bridal
(gomedj)
ing
at
the
neck in
silk
or
red.
cotton,
in
stripes
of
and
In daily
barefoot.
life
lut
go
At the
women put
on yellow
are
mostly
cir-
horn
;
])y
those in better
rich,
cumstances, of silver
gold.
or
sometimes by the
of
are
worn
the
;
ears
large
slight
earrings ("khoras,"
from cross)
(addide).
on
open
bracelets
Finally, they
327
made not
to
meet.
To
brooches are
commonly employed.
circle,
These are
in
On
plates
of metal.
All
made by
and are
though
also
ornaments
work from
Zarsis.
little
looking-glass
to
their
breast-pins,
and
also
the
requisites
for applying
When
of
a
wide band
in
the
covered by
A woman
is
rarely seen in
In
328
l)ad
CAVE DWELLERS
they wear wooden shoes.
The Khrumirs
are
proficient in
making
these.
Much
dress
in
is
of the material
or
employed
in the
women's
woven
it
made hy themselves
worn, but some
is
in the region
which
is
brought from
Tripoli,
the
As
a rule,
own
handiwork.
In the
oases
I
was able
the
costume,
whole of
wliicli
Arab
Yet
many
at all
Arab customs,
and
in
example
women
all
on occasion.
We
will
now examine
In Tunis, where
all
the
races
are
so
mixed,
nearly
the
men go
covered.
latter.
329
the
The burnous,
" haik "
as
is
The
worn
is
is
also alone.
found
many
of the
The burnous
also the
Many
the
but
they assume a
gala
and
coat, as also a
burnous
on festive occasions.
is
This
last is shorter
made
stuff",
coast
near
Susa
and to
orar-
shorter
brown -hooded
b'n'nous,
is
ment
wear
in
place
of a
haik
or
and they
trousers.
This
costume
convenient for
fishermen.
A
the
large
is
worn by
denizens of the
Shoes or sandals of
])y
many.
330
CAVE DWELLERS
Red morocco
leather boots,
worn
inside a shoe,
are used
by
The purse
bag.
woven
shirt,
and, in such
and no burnous.
is
that worn in
the
latter
the
P]erber,
burnous and
the
;
haik,
Of the
shirt,
and
uncovered head.
mode
of
life
races.
for
ginians
Roman
cloak.
is
It is
tume.
in
is
clad
which leave
she wears
exposed.
Under
this
331
shciwl,
pretty form.
bodice,
Her bosoms
bound
a silk kerchief,
down over
de Souhesnes).
AVlien she leaves the house she wears a " gandura,"
a kind of cloak of transparent material, fastened on
the shoulders
l)y
Besides this
long embroidered
veil.
The
Moorish
woman
blackens
her
eyebrows,
and
henna the
nails
He
The
folds
;
fall
in
heavy
uncovered, and on
as
free, to distinguish
universal.
332
CAVE DWELLERS
The men, who
are generally handsome, wear a
tassclled
shashia,
often
surrounded
by a turban.
little
They wear
shoes.
also coat
and
Many
attire,
but
easily distinguished.
They
w^ear
narrow
embroidered
trousers,
cotton
stockings, shoes,
and on
very immoral
They
girls
by
them
There
may
be considered worth
is
famed
for
its
and
woven.
Clay ware
day, pottery
is
is
made
Phoenician and
tery
etc.,
is
Eoman tombs
near Carthao^e.
Pot-
also
made
at Jerba in the
form of
jars, vases,
northern
Nebel
;
obtaining
its
pottery
from
THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN
Amongst the
tribes,
333
pottery
is
also
made by
the
women and
The Khrumir
in particular
saddlers, harness
There
made
baskets, hats,
in these regions
-carpets and
worked leather
articles
the
art
of
making pretty
bracelets
and
ornaments.
The
renowned
for their
POSTSCRIPT
The
information
included
adjoined
in
regarding
of
the
the
number
tribes,
of souls
each
Berber
to
and of
after
press.
came
hand only
the
I
portion of
my
here.
therefore
collected
add
with
it
has been
the
great
throughout
ment.
It
I
is
positively
reliable,
the
calculations
which
in
person during
my
Only
as an outsider
horses
may
not
be
places appears
computed too
it is
low.
As
for instance
in Hadeij, where,
said,
Possibly the
may
made by
Government
arose from
this
334
POSTSCRIPT
n^ r
PRINTED BY
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THE
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It is in
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over fourteen years since Mr. Boulger published the third volume of the
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This
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who
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Gordon,
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Dinner in a Torpedo Boat Torpedo Boat passing a Battleship H.M.S. "Rattlesnake" H./Vl.S. "Grasshopper"; in the after Stokehole Wardroom at Sea H. M.S. "Seagull" Catchers in a Gale Going Forrud Torpedoed Torpedo Practice Wei=Hai= Wei Loss of the "Blanco Encolada" A Japanese Torpedo Boat Attack On Board a Torpedo Boat under the Searchlight Torpedo Action in the Naval War Game- The Precursor of the Torpedo Boat Deck Scene on board a Destroyer at Sea Sketch on the Fore Bridge of a Catcher in a Gale- Chased by Destroyers.
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LOCKHART'5 ADVANCE
THROUGH
BY
TIRAH.
P.S.C.
the "Indian Pioneer,"
Capt.
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J.
SHADWELL,
(Siiffolh
Regiment),
News" and
List of
Map
of the
N.W.
Frontier of India,
Sir
Saragarhi.
Position
:
showing Scene of Operations. Map of the Route traversed by W. Lockhart through Tirah. The Fatal Ridge at Dargai.
Boat Bridge on the Indus.
from Enemy's
[Frontispiece.)
" His plain, straightforward narrative makes the whole absolutely clear, from Peshawar right round to Swaikot the exact situation at Dargai, the side excursions among the Chamkannis or to the Waran Valley, the reconnaissance to Dwatoi, and all, It may be as clear as the excellent map which is appended. unreservedly recommended to soldier and civilian alike. ... It will be seen that Captain Shadwell is eminently business-like and that, in fine, is the best word to describe his beautifully clear and most instructive book." Pall Mall Gazette.
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"Captain L. J. Shadwell's account of the arduous operations carried out by It is concise, eminently the Tirah expeditionary force has many great merits. readable throughout, well illustrated by maps and [jhotographs, and written in Transport is the main difficulty in frontier a clear and soldierlike style. campaigns, and the author gives a lucid description of the working of the Indian system, showing the points of weakness wiiich nndoubteflly exerted a baneful influence over the proceedings. The narrative of the operations, from the actions at Dargai to the [)ainful retirement along the Bara Valley, forms a striking record of individual gallantry and cheerful endurance but although adverse conmient is never forthcoming, the author conveys the impression that on several occasions the higher leading of the force left much to be desired. Lockhart's .Advance through Tirah should, be read by all who wish to know the history of a specially difficult and interesting campaii^n and to understand alike the strength and the weak points of the Indian army." Times.
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