. . CESS ‘J oss eT ‘ cy mei Bg Cro N ote BY a ae cal i ic A Sete ‘FLAVORFUL ROU: bss Ge x p RO aes ipad reese : eel DISHES AC vas THE per oe SPECIAL ISSUE: ITALY’S BEST PIZZA | CHINESEBANQUETS PARIS SWEETS | SPANISH SOUL FOOD | SOUTHERN COMFORTS ELIXIRS INNEW ORLEANS | BREAKFAST AROUND THE WORLD TOP WINERY STAYS | CAFESOCIETIESWorldMags Cree, Nee eet eg SAPPHIRE” presents Seni! ure oe ee rica =<) 21a @) NN eee Sapphire, featuring unlimited rewards and expert > ¢ oT -7 g [<7 a | of - 2 asain ERVE After you've crossed the unpredictable waters of the Drake Passage, you'll be rewarded by the sight of whales and other marine life that swim alongside your ship. Paradise Bay is a sparkling harbor surrounded by glacial peaks; take\a kayaking excursion and watch blue- ‘eyed shags diving for fish. Go ashore on Peterman, Island and you'll be greeted by thousands of gentoo Penguins, recognizable by a distinctive white stripe that ‘spans the top of their heads, Port Lockroy, on Goudior Island, is considered a “ving museum,” and also features the Antarctic Peninsula’s only public post office, oe \ Led by a team of National Geographic experts, you'll discover why Antarctica is one of the “60 Places of a Lifetime." ‘You may also win one of 10 iPads® that wil include the National Geographic Traveler “60 Places of a Lifetime” app sponsored by Chase Sapphire. net ¢ WorldMagsWE'LL HAVE YOU AT “HELLO: [ol N-1=0) SAPPHIRE Uae) With Chase Sapphire; whenever you call, an expert advisor will pick up, 24/7. No machines will answer and there are no buttons to push. Guaranteed. CHASE WHAT MATTERS” ind out rid. at Chase. @ ‘WorldMags. CHASEWorldMags CONTENTS NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELER ee ark es USSSQ CRYSTAL The difference is Crystal clea. UA OR RP MORAL ts now All Inclusive You asked for All Inclusive, and we listened, Starting spring 2012, all voyages will include complimentary prepaid gratuities, ine wines, premium spirits and On ee ae ae ee eee ‘the specialty restaurants from Nobu and Piero Selvaggio, unlimited enrichment programs, and all non-alcoholic beverages are included in every fare. To learn more, Visit erystalcruises.com. To book, contact your travel agent or call 888.688.6797, EUROPE | NEW ENGLAND & CANADA | PANAMA CANAL | SOUTH AMERICA | TRFOOD, WINE, FUN An Epicurean Safari in South Abiica Di South Mita wo can Bae wth penguins, photogeaph gifs in the wild, sleep in a tree house, hike majestic coastlines, and you can eat and drink-magnificently well. You ll enjoy unforgettable experiences with food that not only tastes great but also offers a gateway into the countty/s cultures. At the Table South African cuisine isa true culinary ‘melting pot. Get ready for hip fusion fare inthe city and food cooked over an open fire in the wilds, Some traditional South ‘African favorites are: Amadumbe This mix of mashed sweet potato and peanut is sometimes kicked up a notch: sweet potato mashed with butter is sprinkled with roasted peanuts and then drizzled with honey. Bobotie This delectable Cape Malay dish isa light curry of beef or lamb topped with an egg custard, It goes well with turmeric: flavored rice and a dalop of fruit chutney. Boerewors Roll Sausage grilled over an ‘open flame, nestled in a bun, and topped with mustard and tomato sauce this is “top-dog" roadside stand fare. CChakalaka This spicy relish mixes carrots, green peppers, onions, vinegar, chil, and sometimes a secret ingredient. Morogo A type of flavorful wild spinach, itis often mixed with butter braised onion and tomato or maize porridge “ripe It’s a traditional meat enjoyed throughout the continent. On the Cape i's (j Wortdmags On the Wine Route ‘Actually, 18 official wine routes and two brandy routes-nearly all on South Africa's \Western Cape and some near Cape Town, Each route has its own personality, with Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, and Paarl the ‘most popular. The vineyards are most photogenic in South Africa's summer and fall, while its ‘winter is best for avoiding the crowds. Harvest is generally January ~ March, Organized tours, drive-yourself road trips, and, in some areas, hop-on-hop-off shuttle or bus service are the options. ‘Avvineyard picnic offers a delicious way to sample special wines, local organic cheese, lives, charcuterie meats rut, baked treats, and more Bobotie Ingres: Tiebiespoone vegetable oe posed sc shed 374 pone minced bee rab 1 Wl of whe Bread nk {tablespoon cury powder 11/2 ublespoons Sugar 2 exspoons sak Freshy pound pepper (abou 1/2tsspoon) $f atenpoon turmeric 1/42 talespoone mak vinegar 1/Leap seedless rns Yasespoons rt chutney 2 bay ores lemon eset medum eggs Direction (6) Preheat ven to 250° Hea ol in pan ind sit onions ver medium hea unt tranepaent Add minced ment and cook unl ign brouned and crumb, Soak bread in hal he mil squeeze out the ences gid and mah rs fork our te squcers-out tik back into the ean il and set Side Add he mashed bread, curry powdery, ‘ua at poppes usm negara tod Guana, eed ments ots and ic Spoon mare to a rene baking dh and ace bay o emo eves ontop Bake in oven for 80-60 minutes Best egs with mk and our over the mixur approximately 25-30 Iinutes before the end of baking ime En i Its Possible om sutra netleave ordanar 4 beluna Dining alfresco was heavenly, but it was the lofty welcomes of the locals that made me feel like | was the king of the hill Go to wwwsouthafrica.net66 We pass a family of six riding on a scooter built for two and see an old man transporting a dozen live roosters, talons tied together. [m propositioned by several prostitutes gliding by in tight dresses. A few of them are women. 99 me cj pes eranrucens 34 Benind the Scones Hating Ss Abra tendon smart Traveler Tay ‘Accommodition deals in Vienna Family-friendly Canbbean isk ‘wih kids. Central Greece A Saigon scooter ride to remember Your Shot/Travel A leting sunrise view from the top of ‘Mount Rinjan Indonesia Riitinerary, page 2 Logon to our Taste of Travel website for celebrations f@__iNspired by food, mouthwatering photo galleries, and delicious tours. Find cool places to eat ice cream, sip coffee © (ef and have 2 <== > icnigs@round the world. wav Giwortaniags”Istanbul, Turkey "SOMETIMES ONE PICTURE CAN BE WORTH WortaMags ~ HILTON HHONORS™ TRANSFORMS YOUR POINTS _ INTO MEMORIES YOU CAN'T HELP BUT SHARE. Plan the picture-perfect vacation, Fram long weekends with, the family to adventurous excursions for two, you can Use ‘your HHonors points for the getaway you've always imagined. And with more than 3,700 hotels in 85 countries from ten) distinct brands, HHonors has the perfect hotel for every budget and any occasion, Now, you can turn al the places you've read about into places you'll always remember. oguRe HOMER,Behind the Scenes (Cheers The Brazen Head is one of many Dublin pubs that pull bth pints and personalities. EDITOR'S NOTE What's on Tap? ELCOMETO OUR first anniual food isste, which is ‘more about the meeting of food and culture than it is about recipes aand dishes. The idea behind the section that begins on page 64 i simple: There is no better place to discover true culture than where folks ‘congregate to eat and drink, To experience a classic ‘example of this, you needn't Jook further than Dublin, a place that may have more pubs per capita than any other city Pubs aren’t only wonderfully informal purveyors of food and drink; they also ‘offer up the opportunity of instant friendship. In one Dublin evening I met Eugene, Johnny, Paulo, a family from Chicago, a couple from County Clare, ‘celebrated Irish musician who had just played the Glastonbury Festival, and a writer who promised me he'd be famous one day. At Hartigan’s I chatted ‘with owner Alphonsus Mulligan, a man ‘whose family has owned the pub for decades (he lived upstairs for 22 years) At Kehoe’, they serve toasted ham and cheese sandwiches and not much else except 6,000 pints of Guinness in a good week. At the Brazen Head, one of the oldest pubs in Europe, owner John Hoyne toured me past and a coffin“ ‘memorabilia fi behind by some fellows so drunk they forgot it” and into a dilap- dated part of the building that some people claim is haunted, met Johnny Daly, who told me “the Irish used to have the longest thumbnails in Europe, the better to peel the potatoes.” Finally, ended up at O’Donoghue’s on a raucous Saturday night and listened to some ‘musicians—one player a young woman smother a mandolin= who with an accordion, playing Elvis Costello look- burst into a lengthy jam, all spiraling melodies and spiky hand-picking. They \were in their own world, And I was in their living room, Places where food is served ofien yield our best travel experi- ences. This issue is full of them, Enjoy —Keith Bellows, Editor BACKSTORY ACulinary Thrilla in Manila ‘Que sen ae ington, D.C, it was hard to find Philippine food outside our home,” says executive editor Norie Quintos, who shepherded the Taste of Travel special issue (page 64). These days dishes such as adobo (chicken and pork cooked in vinegar and soy sauce) and lumpia (Fried egg rolls) are familiar co many Americans, and Asian markets carry lots of exotic spices and sauces, even my favorite brand of pauis (ermented fish sauce), Yet, on a recent family trip to the Philippines, the local food scene sur prised her. There were new twists on old standbys suc and milk with tropical add-ins) served deconstructed and an traditional ingredients as halo-halo (shaved ice wentive use of “Acthe Bohol Whole roasted pig on abed of banana leaves. Bee Farm, a B&B in the Visayan Islands, the blooms in the spicy flower salad ‘came from plants pollinated by honey- bees from the house apiary.” Bur there was something else too: Everything tasted sublime,” she says, secret ingredient I c secret, appar- ently, was the setting. Like many travel- crs, she discovered that a dish somehow improves when eaten at the source ofits cultural creation, “There's a confluence of ingredients and environment,” she says. “Lechion (spit-roasted pig) just tastes better when served on banana leaves under a slowly rotating ceiling fan in steamy Manila ‘Our Mission: tina Geographic Traveler reports on destinations of datinction and character end we supporters to keep tern that way —behevg tal to eohance an agree vers oa" ilbeet both isan teats hy For neve rato, vs av atontenpapnc con avis ‘4. WorldMagHILTO! eal (©) Nie)5e) WITH A CLICK OF YOUR SHUTTER WIN THE ADVENTURE OF A LIFETIME ‘ONE PHOTO COULD MEAN AN UNFORGETTABLE 10-DAY EXCURSION TO THE GALAPAGOS. Tell us a tale. Enter the Hilton HHonors” Stories Without Words Photo Contest, and you could win a National Geographic Expedition to the Galapagos for two, and one million HHonors points. On your trip, {he possibilities are endless ~ snorkel with sea turtles, observe rare giant tortoises, or even explore the Pfistine waters of the Galapagos by kayak. To win, send us a jaw-dropping photo that tells a story even "you can't believe you captured w @ Recaro (¢ WorldMags« Inbok | waar oun neavens, paws, ao rortowens ang saving Love Memphis Tender DREW EVANS was spot-on in his article about an unplanned layover in Memphis ‘Can’t Help Falling in Love; July-August 2011),” writes Kathy Wardlaw of Barulett, Tenn., a sub- urb of Memphis. “While not on my bucket list either, Graceland helps you visualize what it was like to be a big star in Elvis’s time, and his home serves up the South in a warm, welcoming way. Years ago, when my daughter visited us from college in Virginia and reluctantly toured Graceland, she was moved by Elvis’s ‘ums unt Evi fans and flamboyant impersonators throng Graceland, ‘gracious and generous philan~ thropy around Memphis. “Layovers give us an ‘opportunity to see things we never had a desire to see. I's ‘worth the effort to Google for local sites, grab a cab, and ask ‘local forthe best place to get ‘laim-to-fame food.” Ginny Davis of Southampton, Pa., agrees but took issue with Matson’s Mall highlights. “I was saddened by the omis- sion of the National Museum of the American Indian in a seemingly inclusive tour,” Davis writes “The building is one of ‘Washington's most striking, and what it contains and repre~ sents deserves great respect— especially now. In thousands of years, our first inhabitants let hardly trace. Vet in roughly 300 years we have managed to desecrate this beautiful land, If only we could regain some of their wisdom.” ‘To learn more about the efort 10 rehab the Mall vise www :nps.gov/nationalmaliplan. InDefense of the Mall Park-loving readers expressed ‘concems about the National Mall's maintenance woes as described by columnist Boyd Matson (Unbound, July- ‘August 2011), “Though the economy is ‘wreaking havoe, we must find funds to keep up our national parks,” writes Susan Sargent of Tucson, Ariz, HOW TOCONTACTUS Sie!» Pave TH WorldMags.. nae ornaroy bse, pay ai or pveasitasipnegontorgar econ rtp te 800 NL COMMENT OF THE MONTH 66 Absolutely loved the piece on Chiang Mai, where I lived for five months. The beautifully written piece has me itching to travel back to Thailand—now. 99 Shannon O'Donnel of Lars, Fla, on “Last Goole" Ful August 2011 Silent Nights “Daisann McLane’s column, “Travels Frenemy: Noise’ [Real Travel, July-August 2011) made me realize Lam rot alone in my desire for quiet,” writes Carl Johnson of Anchorage, Alaska. “I travel ‘with earplugs and headphones to ward off the eacophony of nnoises—steel drums in the wee hours next to my cottage on an otherwise pristine beach in Grenada; crowing roosters in Hawaii, Mexico, and Fiji; hotel noises (ice machines, seream- ing kids); boomboxes blaring from courtyards; fellow airline passengers. The article was sweet silence co my ears.” Show MeaCorrection Ina roundup of roadside kitsch (*Caaillacs, Dino- saurs, and Neon,” fly August 2011), Susan Sharp of ‘Moberly, Mo., noticed a case ‘of mistaken identity, The big gest pecan is actually found in nutty Brunswick, Mo, ‘THE ONLINE CHATTER oinciding with the centennial of Parks Canada and the release of ‘the National Geographic Guide to the National Parks of Canada, ‘we asked blog readers to share ther favorite memories. [ninever forget visting Columbia efile in Jasper National Park with, my familyasalid Wescooped up water fromasmallsteam-the Coldest ane most refreshing drink Ive ever taste, Manta Yeung Guides at Prince Albert take visitors toa spot frequented by wolvesandl then how. When the wolveshhow! back its magical award Pye AtFundy in New Brunswick, thelowtidesat Alma Beach are astonishing. Youcan walkout for what feels hkean eternity Lloveto ‘sce what normally hidden under the water Cusine area Jon te Conversation Chico crwn ring ta. lige Yat Siersrhatectaaesncace™ ECSBSS CATHAY PACIFIC Daily departures from Chicago to Hong Kong. « W Kk thaypacific.com/ ¢ orldMags cathaypacific.com/us« Real Travel | #y Daisann McLane Local Election? Join the Party. Drop in ona place during campaign season and you'll reap all sorts of insights. EN SPORTING THE HEADS of tigers and lizards are staring at me from every street corner.'They stand alongside other men and women dressed in suits and military uniforms draped with medals. ‘Some gesture with a thumbs-up, a two-fingered V, or an open palm. Others cradle things in their arms: soccer balls, babies, pandas. I dash across streets, turn corners, duck down narrow lanes, but their gazes, follow me. { No, I'm not in a hotel ha Bangkok during Thailand’s big national election, The Thai gov ‘ernment has strit limits on the ‘amount of money that politicians may spend on campaigning, so instead of 20-second TV spots, politcal partes rl sive ways to get their s on inexpen- ssage out to voters. Like political posters. Right now, it seems that every streetlight pole, building pillar, and tree in Bangkok props up @ humongous vinsl placard, 1's 7:30 am, sill cool enough here to stroll around comfortably before the June swelter kicks in. A fellow with a sheaf of newspapers under his arm stops and chuckles when he sces me taking snapshots of the poster with the lizard-head ‘man wearing a suit. I smile back, give him my sweet- fest “Samadee ka” hello, and ask him what the Thai slogan on the poster means. “It says all politicians are animals, so don't vote for any. This party wants supporters to cast a blank ballot “And that one?” I ask, pointing to an ad showing. 1 chubby man with beady eyes hoisting a grumpy toddler. “Ah, that one says that politicians are like baby’s diaper—need to be changed a lot. [think that is a quote from some foreign writer.” Indeed. And if Mark’Twain, that intrepid world traveler, were still alive, he would probably be tickled that his saying has made such a splash inthe ‘Thai political arena, Tknow that many people prefer to detour around politics when they travel. Political demonstrations, like other large public activities (sports matches, concerts), can get out of hand, going from peaceful to perilous on a dime. And in many parts of the ‘world, the most innocuous conversation about political issues ‘can have unpleasant, even dangerous repercussions. But some of my greatest travel memories are of places I visited during or 4 WorldMags. ‘Tang heads: Vivid campaign posters surround a vendor in Thailand Someofmy greatest travel memoriesare of places that Ivisited duringorsoon after intense Political moments. ing a jet lag-induced nightmare. I'm wide awake and wandering around strands of beach on the island of Grenada a few weeks after the island's coup; getting caught up ina march of singing, banner- waving Parisian workers during a strike in the citys learning about Argentine politics—and life—by talking with the people banging pots and pans in protest in front of the presidents palace, the Cas Rosada, after Argentina’s fiscal collapse in 2001. Polities shape the daly life of a place as much as its traditions, history, and beliefs. Shy away from traveling to politically active places, and you'll miss some of the most interesting moments in that nation’s lifetime, Td have given anything to have been in India during Gandhi's nonviolent revolution or in Berlin when the wall eame down. There is no better time to experience and begin to understand what a culture is all about nd where is going than when its people are muling lover that very question, loudly freely, and in public Ofcourse, I take precautions—I try to steer clear of war zones, and I don’t get into political discussions in places where it might offend my local friends or get them (or me) arrested, I also make sure I do some advance research so that I'm informed about the situation on the ground. ‘The reason I waveled to Bangkok this past summer \vas to experience Thailand's election campaigning in full throttle In fact, Toften plan trips around a politically interesting moment. Like local festivals, local politics give you a concentrated shot of the essence of a place. In some nations, political campaigns are almost indistinguishable from festivals. My first travel experience ‘of an clection was in Trinidad, where campaigns are like early ‘Naipaul novels come to life. I remember laughing at the wicked calypso songs mocking the unpopular incumbent prime ‘minister. After election results announcingEvery story needs a book. Make yours. o-O-m ‘Turning your pletures into a beautiful book Is easy with Blurb. our free tools give v our much ereative freedom as you lik G WorldMagsOne on One | 2y Keith Bellow A Fisher of Men Barton Seaver hopes to keep seafood on our dinner plates for generations to come. ARTON SEAVER is on a mission: to change how we eat seafood so there will always be seafood in the ocean left to eat. That means substituting lesser known species for overfished varieties (such as cod and shrimp) and serving smaller portions dressed up with vegetables and spices. Seaver, a 32-year-old National Geographic Fellow and author of the cookbook For Cod and Country, has helmed several notable restaurants, in his hometown of Washington, D.C. At one, he managed to serve 78 different species of seafood lover the course of a year. Seaver, a busy traveler ‘was first inspired by a journey to coastal Morocco, ‘where generations have lived off the sea and sus- tainable fishing isa way of life. How do you connect with theaverage diner? ‘The oceans are in dire trouble, mostly because we've eaten too ‘many of the fish in them. When T ‘was growing up, I spent my sum- ‘mers in a house on Maryland’s Patuxent River, My brother and I would pull large male crabs off the pier pilings, throwing back the females. We'd fish for striped bass and blueish right off the dock. By the time I became a chef, crabs were expensiv coming from Venezuela. Striped bass was altogether unavailable; there was a moratorium on fish- ing for it. Bluefish populations had ‘been decimated. I realized that the bounty I experienced as a child hhad gone away in 10 oF 15 years ‘One reason is that most people no longer relate to the oceans, ‘Travelers used to have to cross the ‘ocean in a boat to get to Europe. ‘Now we board a plane, go to sleep, and wake up on the other side. Ww damage we're wreaking goes unno- ticed. But people do value having seafood on their plates. So instead of saying I'm trying to save fish, I and most were ¢ lost our connection. The GWorldMags BARTON SEAVER food nstanabilty He theSeato Cn Zh ‘onsumers mal frienally he ‘Whatroledoesthe chef play? Chefs are the guiding hands of natural selection, For example, over the past 30 years they popularized bluefin tuna, That used to be cat food, a trash fish. Chefs popularized rmonkfish and put Chilean sea bass on almost every fine-dining menu in the country. It was chefs who took a little-known species of slimehead and re~ cast it into the now popular orange roughy. Thitty= five years ago, those fish names didn’t exist in our cultural lexicon. But if chefs have the power to destroy, we can also restore, engag crs in a healthy, economically viable relationship with our oceans. ‘Whatare your goalsfor your cookbook? [rote it to encourage Americans to eat more fish. Seafood isa delicious, healthy product that we should eat rindfully I prepare about 40 spe- ‘ies in the book; most chefs would have trouble naming 30; most ‘customers, 20. Just ten species represent 85 percent of the fish ‘we eat, The book teaches about ‘cooking side dishes of vegetables and theie vast array of tastes, tex tures, and colors, The protein, that is, the fish, is easy to cook ‘and will always take the center of the plate. The vegs supporting cast of lavors that re ally makes the difference. Is the ‘eream of zucchini with mint and sorrel underneath and the cachet ‘of carrot, raisin, and almond salsa ‘on top that makes the seared picee of barramundi so much fun to cat. You've got the crunch of the carrot, the soft sweetness of the raisins, the permeating aroma of the almond oil, and the creamed preparation with its lemony bite ables are the ‘Whatelseare youdoing? My most fun work is lecturing at Harvard Medical School to physicians, cli nicians, and public health officials. Hey, you want smart kids? Great Feed them lots of heart-healthyeee eer —s aa HD 2 oe a hip aaa iti ae ae a a f = on kee ‘We aed + RAP wil POUR CRU Te ec Coe Caco CT eco Be ‘soyem AIOYSTY puy ‘sdee[s sul, |anchovies and sardines. They're delicious and cheap, available nationwide from cor- ner bodegas in Harlem to Walmarts and evens. High blood pressure? Take half ‘a dozen oysters and call mein the morning. ‘We're beginning to use seafood as preven- How have your travels atfected you? One ‘of my great learning experiences was in the Moroccan seaside town of Essaouira, I found these small shacks where men ‘were grilling seafood just beyond a ram- ppart where waves were crashing. I didn’t speak the language, but because I spoke food fluently, I was able to communicate, ‘We went back and forth about olive il, fire, and fish. Through that connection, I ‘began to create a relationship with these ‘cooks and fishermen, It was a kind of aim- less travel, with no specific tour nor even a return flight booked, but it allowed for in- depth relations and it was a great educa- tion. That's where I learned that saving the ‘oceans is a humanitarian issue, Inthe US. swe ask, “What shall we have for dinner?” Elsewhere in the world, they ask, “Will there be dinner?"'These fishermen were casting nets in hopes of catching dinner, not dollars Have other places touched you ike that? In my travels, 've seen civil wars, natural disasters, poverty, despair, and different forms of government. But Cuba was so surprising. The people are joyful, honest, and respectful but struggle for fundamen- tal things we take for granted in Ameri the right to express themselves to debate, to work for what they deserve, to follow their passions and dreams. The situation ‘was heartbreaking but inspiring, because the people hang on to their joy. They live for the future. They pour everything into their children. Everyone is waiting for their ‘opportunity to bloom and to flourish, ‘Would you ever go back to running a res- taurant? No, I'm devoted now to getting people to care about the oceans. My pas- sions have evolved past what a restaurant kitchen alone can provide. Frankly, a typi- cal restaurant is not realty. While most of your readers may be able to afford a $25 centre, tha isnt the state ofthe world. Pm tying to broaden the message, to speak to people asa cook and not as a chef. A cook hhas a more elemental, universal role, offer- ing the communion of food to humanity. KEITH BELLOWS isthe editor of Tiel REALTRAVEL hhis defeat were delivered in the wee hours of the morning, I raced out to join the ‘crowds dancing along the streets behind steel bands, all celebrating a fresh start Lively, boisterous democracies make for ‘great travel experiences. Tamil Nadu, in ‘South India, i known for its temples, food, travelers keen to explore local polities. Here, the major candidates promote themselves and their political platforms on huge, ‘hand-painted billboards that look like ads for Bollywood movies (indeed, some ofthe ‘candidates are stars of Bollywood movies), ‘They also get their messages out with audio clectioneering, I remember seeing an old Ambassador automobile (India’s version ‘of a Volkswagen) driving at a crawl as it broadcast party’s manifesto through loudspeakers. Crowds then followed it to a political rally ina field There, on a make- shift stage, sat the candidates, each draped jn white clothing and choked with heaps of ‘orange garlands; like revered gurus, Thappen to be obsessed with cultural Uifferences, so one of my favorite things to do when T travel isto pay attention to the 4 WorldMags... from place to place. I'm from Brooklyn, where the president of my borough often jumps up on stage to dance with a neigh~ borhood band when campaigning. So I totally appreciated witnessing the same scene during an election taking place in Brazil when I was there. Likewise, when I visited Tokyo during an election, Iwas fascinated when I spotted local candidates \wearing political-party sashes over their black suit jackets beauty-contest style and bowing solemnly to every passing voter. ‘Mark Twain (and his admiring Thai slogan writer) had it right: Polities ean be ‘messy. But polities can also inspire. don’t think it’s just a coincidence that political sympathizers are sometimes referred to as “fellow travelers.” The political process itself is also a kind of travel I's a journey that is meant to lead a people to a better place. For those of us travelers who are fortunate enough to hop onto the local campaign bus for even a bit, as I did in ‘Thailand, ic offers a chance to take home not just an impression of a place but a sense of is future. (Contributing editor DAISANN MeL ANE tweets from hee travels You ean follow her on Twitter at @Daisann_MeLane, (D888 TRAVELER KEITH BELLOWS ‘eccueeaox NOM @unTOs “ibminionst psopanns ate tt mt oe ‘rer aonage ho nina sneer tare (Us net tnere £25508 tan ae pe Fennec 00. S408 0954075. "Souter onine ot ntenazermeconPAST. PRESENT. FUTURE: ridMags MIND. BODY. SOUL. VISTA. VISIONARY. PANORAMA. CaN eee It’s not a shortlived fad. Or the launch of a few new ships. Its an ongoing commitment to offer the newest, and best, ships on the rivers of the world. And we continue that focus with the launch ‘of our three new Suite Ships, the Avalon Vista,” the Avalon Visionary*" and the Avalon Panorama," each ge ecu ee ae aS ae Breen teary Soa wall, panoramic windows. And with Avalon, nothing eee eee Cea ay trip upon any Avalon ship offers the promise of an RO ee ie ee rs Oe ea) ASALON WATERWAYS’ pare,Perec Muy parents <3 when | Yo taketh wee just you don't see geyser rent to Glacier, Bryce 3nyon, Grand Canyon—if you name a national park in my family WorldMags NATURE VALLEY] ‘Acariaouleow and ealf in Denall National Park’s tundra landscape. our national parks will be preserved for PreserveTheParks.com.Find your happy place. Preserve it forever. Anyone who's visited one of America’s National Parks knows not only how special they are, but also how important it is to preserve them. We do too. Serer R OLIN aU me eT Rg ens tocome. Go to TRO eR ae WOM Mice re LUMO ie RCOM CN ese Meena amen crch On cee ue R ue ES one Oe rey) oWOLLTales From The Frontier | 2y Costas Christ Shore Is a Shame More cruise lines go green at sea, but will they commit to acting responsibly on land? NABALMY MORNING last January in Belize, a team of cruise ship execs arrived for discussions about expanding cruise tourism in this tiny unspoiled Central American country, home to the world’s second largest barrier reef and swaths of biodiverse rain forest sheltering one of the greatest con- centrations of ancient Maya sites. That's why I was there: The Bel government asked me to help craft a new sustainable tourism plan that incorporates cruise ships. But negotiations with the delegation had hit rough seas. Ie was not lost on the country’s leaders that in nearby Cozumel, nearly three million camera- swinging, tchotchke-buying ‘cruise ship passengers stepped ashore last year, adding to the mass tourism pressure that threatens to engulf the Yucatin’s fishing hamlets and once pristine ccoast. Belize wants the economic ‘benefits of cruise tourism, but not the damage it can bring, ‘Once in the crosshairs of the environmental movement for illegally dumping trash and oily bilge water at sea (several ships ‘were famously caught on-camera doing the dirty deeds in the 1990s) and belching toxie smoke out oftheir stacks in port, the cruise industry has since invested millions of dollars to green up its sustainability credentials. Royal Caribbean, for ‘example, tapped Jamie Sweeting, a former senior director of Conservation International, to become its first vice president for envi ship in 2008,’The line now routinely touts is clean practices on ships such as the new Oasis ofthe Seas, a 5,000-plus passenger vessel that is the frst to receive a “Green Passport” designation for its green tech- nology, including state-of-the-art energy efficiency, ‘nontoxic marine paints, solar panels, and an advanced ‘wastewater treatment system, But as the negotiations in Belize make apparent, the cruise lines have yet to embrace a ‘more responsible path to doing business on land. Just weeks after reporting nearly $2 billion in profits for 2010, Carnival—the largest cruise corporation in the world—joined ‘other cruise lines in insisting that Belizean tour operators, whose tenders transfer 100 passengers on ship-to-shore excursions, in- ‘rease capacity to 150 passengers (to provide a smoother and more comfortable ride, according to Carnival. This would cost Belize’s @WorldMags onmental steward- Nobusiness te bg busines Cruisers aboard a tender in Belize, “Wewantand need cruise tourismas partofour development, butwewantit basedon sustainable practices.” “To make matters worse the cruise executives also insisted that Beli abandon a proposed increase in national park entrance fees—from 5 to $10 per person (among the lowest in the world, even with the inerease). That increase, Belize officials maintain, is desperately needed to beter eare forthe same parks that receive high traffic from cruise passengers. When the Belizeans emerged from the negotiations, [learned that Carmi val warned them that might pull ‘out ofthe country its demands ‘were not met. The cruise industry talks about the great strides they are making for the envi- ronment, but what about supporting the loeal economy and safeguarding cultural and natural heritage in the destinations they visi?” asks Lindsay Garbutt, CEO of the Belize Ministry of Tourism, “We want and need cruise tourism as part of our economic development, but we want it based on sustainable practices.” Other cruise destinations echo similar concerns. Last June, local residents and groups in Charleston, S.C.—a model of historie and cultural preserva- tion—announced they were suing Carnival, citing the negative impact from large-scale eruise tourism on its neighborhoods and environment. According to the Charleston Heritage Federation, “Charleston has struggled against and survived three centuries of wars, fires, earthquakes, and hurricanes.” Its current challenge is the cruise ships—and the negatives they bring. ‘When it comes to the flip side ofthe sustainability equation— providing social and economic benefits to local communities and protecting the destinations they visit—the cruise lines come up {ar short. For instance, many “cruise villages" —where passengers first disembark to shop—are closed areas controlled by afiliated companies pedalling international diamonds, rather than moreasTan ALL onldMags Europe's best airline aTCld. ‘any hydropower it provided ‘The Edwards Dam came dss in 1998, opening an ational 18 mies of spawning haba along the Kennebec River for salmon, striped bass, shad and tured of thoucnds of slewivs, a herring used for bing lobster tap, leaping into te a at eye eve Tisher- men are catching shad forthe rst dine in ore a xntury, The cle population i aecounding ape iG Leroi warden forthe tw of Benton, Mie “AVe even ha el in Watervle chasing fish 40 miles upteam frm ine lane” Every ng the Kennebec Cecbation fnocss and kayakers fora T7-mile paddle pes the former dam ste The Kennebec success made ita blueprint for restoring other ves In Sandy, Ore, 28 mies southeast of Port land the local uty company realized that upgrading its hydropower plant © roodera lice standards Would cox rs 4 World 42007 Pordnat Nature nurtured in some areas, the diamonting of dams has rsultedin the revival of freshwater spawning fish such as the rainbow trout above) and few tral forking and biking (op) Washington State's Glines Canyon Dam (ght is curently being taken down. General Electric (PGE) blew up the Marmot Dam, freeing the Sandy River's en- tire S6-mile run, from Mount Hood to the Columbia River Gorge, for the first time since 1912. As a parting gift, PGE donated the 1,500 acres sur rounding the former dam site to the non- profit Western Rivers Conservancy This tract, which includes old-growth Douglas fir and hemlock forests, had been off-limits to the public for security reasons, But with the dam gone, there will be new put-in and take-out points for paddlers as well as trails through the for tests for hikers, bikers, and birders. Port- land’s kayakers, canocists, and rafters are thrilled. They no longer have to portage around the dam, and the increased river flow has extended paddling season from ‘March to July. Dave Slover, owner ofHigh fashion meets high function Tee add waterproof leather and a cozy wool Seca a en Pee eons Eon yIiS aston vy Vip creer creme yen WC Ue ua) LET'S GET OUTSIDE”« SMART TRAVELER Betore and after photos of Yosemite's Hetch Hetchy Valley: Adam but 1923 altered the area's landscape. Some actists want to ‘ismantle the dam and restore the valley tts former state ‘Alder Creek Kayak and Canoe, calls the Sandy’s inner canyon “one of the coolest places I've boated in the world.” ‘A similar story unfolded last year along North Carolina's Tuckasegee River, DAMNATIONS Inthese countries, barriers are still ‘going up, not coming down. hile Americans are undoing some of the harm caused by dams, the cur rent is going the ather way in developing nations. "n most ofthe world, rivers are still being dammed, sometimes as if there's no tomorrow says Peter Bosshard, policy director for International Rivers, 2 Berkeley, Calit-based nonprofit: He said the fllowing dams, ether proposed or under construc tion, are among the most destructive to their surrounding erwironments. Educate yourself and express concerns to travel ‘companies when visting these destinations, BRAZIL The country plans to build more than 60 dams inthe Amazon Basin aver the next 20 years. The Belo Monte Dam on the Xingu River, a major Amazon tributary net ‘9. WorldMag southeast of Great Smoky ‘Mountains National Park and a favorite among, families for its beginner= friendly rapids. After the local utility removed the Dillsboro Dam, the Tuckasegee developed a new section of Class Il rapids that has become popular with canoeists and kayakers ‘ovvmptc News “This fll the biggest dam removal project in US. history and perhaps the world gets underway along. the Ewha River in Wash- ington’s Olympic Peninsu- Ja, Both the Glines Canyon Dam and the 98-year-old Elwha Dam will be razed, ‘opening more than 70 _miles of river and streams tall five species of Pacific salmon: king, sockeye, silver, chum, and pink, Although the dams won't ‘be completely removed until 2014, Dave Reynolds, a public information officer at Olympic National Park, says vistors should notice changes soon. The Park Service estimates salmon stocks will ulimately increase from 3,000 to 300,000, which will fuel corespondi leaps in the populations of bald eagles, ‘would be the worle's third largest ydroelec- tric project. International Rivers estimates it would displace 30,000 people ETHIOPIA Despite opposition from com: ‘munities along the Omo River the largest otters, black bears, and other wildlife. Reynolds expects the dam removal itself may be an attraction, “People will want to see what the big deal is.” Each successful dam breaching encourages Restore Hetch Hetchy, ‘San Francisco-based nonprofit that is spearheading an effort to restore a val- ley in Yosemite now flooded because of the O'Shaughnessy Dam. Opposition to the flooding ofthe valley dates back 10 the naturalist and early environmentalist John Muir himself, who in 1870 called it“a wonderfully exact counterpart” of ‘Yosemite Valley. To dam this beloved val- ley, he later lamented, would be akin to destroying “the people's cathedrals and churches, for no holier temple has ev bbeen consecrated by the heart of man, Despite Muir's protestations, the city ‘of San Francisco won federal authority to clear-cut the valley and in 1923 built the dam, which has delivered water to San Francisco ever since. Mike Marshall, Restore Hetch Hetchy’s executive director, says the dam could be breached without undermining San Francisco's water supply The organization plans to collect signa- tures in hopes of placing the issue on city ballots in November 2012. Ifthe dam ends up being removed, Marshall antici= ppates the return of trout and bears, foxes, and bobcats in the first few years, mead- lows and saplings within five years, and tees tall enough for shade in 25 years. He envisions a day when visitors rave not about Yosemite Valley but rather the park's ‘win valleys infrastructure projectin Ethiopian his- tory=the Gibe il Dam—began in 2006 Downstream in Kenya, 300,000 people are ‘dependent onthe Omo's annual low into Lake Turkana for their survival [LAOS The proposed Xayaburi Dam would be the ist along the Lower Mekong River. south othe Chinese border, and could propel construction of as many as ten more ‘dams in Laos, Cambodia, and Thailand, Dams on China's Upper Mekong have already blocked fish passage and changed the rivers ecology. INDIA The Centra Electricity Authority has targeted more than 150 sits for hyo: power projets in the northeastern Brahma puta Basin, seismically active areaitcalls future powerhouse. The proposed Lower Siang Dam on the Siang River would have a setious impact on local communities, JR.timeless. arizonaguide:com BIR: ae ee at ae ASMART TRAVELER ‘Span atte London's skyline may be changing, but Tower Bridge stands steadtast London Blitz Itll take Olympic stamina to experience all that the British capital has to offer. Have a go. | ay RACHEL HOWARD ONDON'Ss landsae changes ae sneapers Jing the Cheese de cand Wale Tae he shard he Shangri-La hotel. Visitors can admire the views from the observatory on the 68th to 72nd floors. "These high-rise upstarts have dwarfed historic landmarks such as the Monument. But huff up the 311 steps inside this giant ‘column, built to commemorate the Great Fire of 1666, and the vista from the old City of London to the new financial istrict of Canary Wharf still exhilarates After a sensitive restoration, the Monu- ment remains a testament to London's ‘capacity for reinvention, a strength the city drew on once again to bounce back from August’ riots, w ‘The Museum of London houses the earliest known map of the city, dating from 1558, From suffragettes’ banners to 4 WorldMags.... London's revolutionary spirit, ‘The arts center at the Barblean cel- braces its 30th birthday next yea, with an all-star lineup featuring Cate Blanchett, Philip Glass, and Wynton Marsalis. Sip a gin and tonic atthe glamorous Barbican Lounge, with its terrace overlooking the ‘medieval church of St. Giles' Cripplegate, where the poet John Milton is buried. ‘With five million visitors a year, the Tate Modern has transformed a derelict power station into a powerhouse of modern art Its soaring industrial spaces hold crowd- pleasing works by the likes of Gerhard Richter and Tacita Dean. (The new wing under construction an angular stack of perforated bricks—promises to be just as spectacular.) Like most of the capital's public museums, entrance to the perma nent collection is fr In fact, notoriously expensive London offers a wealth of pleasures that cost absolutely nothing. From’Tite Modern, cross the Millennium Bridge to St Pau Which has serubbed up nicely after a 15- year restoration, Entrance is free during church services, which inelude choral evensong every afternoon, when a male choie fills the eathedeal with heavenly music. Alternatively; stroll along the South Bank to the Mediatheque and delve into the British Film Institute's archives, catch live jazz and upbeat world music in the foyer ‘of the National Theatre, or track down lost poems atthe Poetry Library. Savey Londoners avoid the exorbitant Underground (and extortionate black cabs) by hopping on a "Boris Bike” Nick- named afier London’s blustering mayor, Boris Johnson, these rentable bicycles are stationed across central London, There's a £1 ($1.61) 24-hour access fee, but 30-minute rides are free. For sightseeing without breaking a at, take a riverboat down the Thames. A flotilla ofa thousand vessels decked in Union Jacks will commemorate the Queen's Diamond Jubilee next June. This floating parade won't make it as far as Greenivich, bur you should. During the 2012 Olympics, Greenwich Park wil be closed to the publi for the equestrian and pentathlon events. So go leap across the prime meridian line while you can, (0 EAT Mark Hix championed sea- sonal British ingredients, such as Dorset crab and gooseberry, long before it was fashionable. In the basement at Hi, one of his four restaurants, Soho bohemians knack back Hix Fixes (Morello cherries in Somerset eau-de-vie topped with spar- ling wine) at the zine bar. But the service {is smoothest at the wood-pancled Hix atthe Albemarle in Brown's Hotel, one of London's oldest hotels. The daily chang ing set lunch is a good value at £25 ($40) for two courses, £30 ($48) for three. OffBlackBerry loren. Go to England and take everyone with you. Only AT&T’s network has the best global coverage. att.com/global @ Worlama = Rethink Possible" SSoho's Secret Tea Room serves 3 vintage tea (above) the Booking Office bar at St Pancras hotel, hints a its past use right). duty, Hix eats at Cay Te Soho and its sister restaurant Viet Gri, on Kingsland Road, @ strip of inexpensive Viemamese canteens, Soho is an eclectic melting pot of every~ thing London has to offer,” says His, “Love to be surprised, and London is a ‘great place for that. Nip into Chinatown ‘ac p00 o'clock in the morning and let your nose guide you.” (Or sniff out Soho's Secret Tes Room, where vintage-clad glamour-pusses serve scones while swing plays on the gramo- phone.’The French House in Soho, a bar ‘much loved by artists and actors, has a “no music, no machines, no mobile phones" policy. Linger here while you wait fora table upstairs at Potpette. Small plates like softshell crab in Parmesan batter make the wait worthwhile. Note: They don’t take reservations in the evenings."The same rule applies to Mortein Islington, where the chef whips up tapas such as jamn and chickpea croquettes. Along the same street, on pedestrian-only Exmouth Market, locals graze on Bangladeshi samosas and Bie repens fajita burritos from the food stalls that start sizzling every weekday around noon, [AC popular Borough Market, void the Saturday crush by visiting on Thursday or Friday to sample pork pies and Stilton, WHERE TO Stay London has seen a furry of five-star openings in the run-up to the Olympics. The splendid St. Paneras Renais sance (irom $445), ina restored High Vie~ torian Gothic landmark, epitomized the golden age of rail travel when it opened in 1873. Original features abound in the public areas: gold leaf ceilings, granite columns, and vaulted arches, Affordable lodgings are elusive in Lon: ddon, but town house hotels offer a cozy alternative to corporate chains. Curiosities cram the Zetter Townhouse (from $331) Oild-time radios adorn antique dressers; headboards are salvaged from fairground carousels. Free bicycles stand ready for exploring Clerkenwell’ strets. In genteel South Kensington, Number 16 ({rom $210) serves afternoon tea in a tucked-avvay garden. Attached TY wahip members? virgo club, Shoreaten “atectien |_—_ Rooms (fom $137) i rem aise Surprisingly unpre aa tentous. But when it comes to bijou lodgings in offbeat rvdtemniaitn e@Nongmen = neighborhoods, AO 2 Mebane) Ta Winks (Grom $153) eee ies ce SM) ies hance down tan Mia You'll have to fighe Bee ga Bilin for a reservation at ule interior designer } Greneth David Carter's Fk eclctcally furnished rea cng ‘80-bedroom home fo in gritty Stepney » @ net 9. WorldMag Green. [onFoor } BRILLIANT BERMONDSEY This neighborhood walk uncovers coolest Britannia. he developers ofthe Shard have rebranded this neighborhood Lon: don Bridge Quarter but will always be Bermondsey to Londoners. This past- Industrial district has come a long way since Charles Dickens set Olver Tist in its Victorian tums, (© OLD OPERATING THEATRE Britain’ oldest surgery cispays instru- ‘ments for cupping, bleeding, and tre panning, a practice of perforating the kul to alleviate pain’ Bult inthe days before anesthetics, its location in the garret helped mute patients’ screams. @ BERMONDSEY STREET ) Once known as London's Larder because of the density of food processing factories, this vibrant, now boutique-tned street is protected by law fr its historical interest. The Fashion ‘and Textile Museum Sitsat one end of the street, Bermondsey ‘Square Antiques Market (Friday ‘mornings only) at the ather. (MALTBY STREET MARKET ‘Serious foodies head to ths cluster of Saturday-oniy stores under the ralway archesto sample pale ale at the Kerne! Brewery, obscure cheeses at Neal's Yard Daiy, and chemical-ree Gergovie Wines paired with seasonal nibbles at 40 Maltby Street © DESIGN MUSEUM This riverside Shrine to fashion, furniture, and graphic design also boasts an arty gift shop for quirky souvenirs, such as embroidered cloud brooches ta remind you ofthe London weather. @ciTy HALL ) Dubbed the “Glass Gord” by Mayor Boris Johnson, this bulbous bulcing contains the London Photomat, collage of hundreds of ‘2erial images of London printed onto ‘the ground flor The project took three years to complete, butnow youcan walkall over the city in seconds. —R.H.Final Destinations Some cemeteries double as local haunts. | sy MARGARET LOFTUS Mi ie sere cons straps den cir esters lace an pope rae aro ceteris pete spose PERE-LACHAISE, PARIS } Inthe 20th arrondissement, this archetype for rural cemeteries openedin 1804, Parisians jog on winding paths, groupes crusade to Jim Morr: son's tomb, and admirers leave lipstick kisses on Oscar Wilde's gravestone, an Eayptian-style depiction of aman in fght. ‘MERRY CEMETERY, ROMANIA } Behind Sapanta's Church ofthe Assumption, mately carved oak crosses, ‘mark each ofthe countryside plot's 900plus graves: art and poetry tel quirky tales of the dead. nan epitaph for aifelong boozer. a posthumous request:"Leave alittle ine ‘ST.LOUIS NO.1, NEW ORLEANS } Near the French Quarter a thousand above-ground vaults jam onto one square block, the 18th-century cemetery exploited in 1969's Easy Rider Interredhere: architect turned pirate Barthelemy Lafon and—rumors say—voodoo priestess Marie Laveau, FOREST LAWN, LOS ANGELES } Hollywood Mis, over looking top Tinseltown studios, serves asa resting place forts gitzest stars rom Bette Davis to Liberace. Many tombs | are surprisingly staid (at nearby Glendale Michael Jackson's is hidden, but a Venetian glass mosaic ups the razzle-dazzle. LARECOLETA CEMETERY, BUENOS AIRES) At this ‘exclusive graveyard, vistors beeline to Eva Perdn’s tomb (under her maiden name, Duarte) Among large stone angels and carved mausoleums stands the heart wrenching sculpture cf abride who ced in an avalanche on her honeymoon, fetes G WorldMags GratefulDead Lemons bedeckStone- wall Jacksoristomibin, Lexington, Va.anod tothe cttrusthe Con federate general was saldtosuckon during the war Parsianshop- Imgtobuoy theirlove livestuckcletersinto thecryptof medieval en-palsweethearts Pierre Abelard and Hé- loise,Andfor decades ‘on Edgar Allan Poos birthday.a cloaked fan leftcognacand roses (above)on the poets sgravein Baltimore. Small Actions Big Changes Take a small action for our planet's future today by becoming a member of the Rainforest Alliance. As a member of the Rainforest Alliance, you will help us: protect forests, wildlife and the people who depend on them .~provide children with access to healthcare and education _ mitigate the effects of climate change To become a member, please visit: www.rainforest-alliance.org/donate To learn about more small actions that lead to big changes, visit: www.rainforest-alliance.org/ smallactions Rainforest AllianceCNIEXT STOP MasterCard’ Introduces Priceless: New York Make the most of the greatest city in the world with Priceless New York: « collection of amazing shopping, culinary, sports, and entertainment experiences reserved just for MasterCard cardholders. That's MasterCard, That's Priceless. You can book. buy, or reserve these experiences ‘at MasterCard.com/pricelessNY. PRICELESS Oceania Cruises." Your World. Your Way. The world’s largest upper-premium cruise line offers o unique combination of exceptional cuisine, luxurious accommodations, person- alized service, and extraordinary value. As the leader in destination cruising, Oceania Cruises sails to more than 300 pors in Affica, Asi, Australia, the Coribbean, Europe. South America, and the South Pacific. Go fo OceaniaCrvises.com/NGT. _ Si @ Worldbiags Ina Fowl Mood ‘Take wing to these top bird-watching sites. | By MEL WHITE, LER \Wison, Jack Black, and Steve Matin as bird-watchers gone ld. The movieisnamed for and based ona real-world, 365-day marathon to spot the most (andrarest) Noth American species. The takeaway? Biers ae often as nutty as the hobby is addictive. I 1's abig year for birding, Make that The Big Year—a new comedy starring Owen (CAPE MAY, NEW JERSEY > Milions of bicis—from hulking vultures to tiny warblers— funnel down this peninsula annually on thei southward migration Viewing ops often include scores of species ina single fall day. Get expert advice or join a naturalist ted walk atthe Cape May Bird Observatory, which hosts the Weria Series of Birding held each May, EVERGLADES, FLORIDA } Thoush habitat loss has diminished numbers, majestic flocks of roseate spoonbils, wood storks, egrets, and other long-legged waders stl awe wildlife watchers at this World Heritage site, especially along bird-rich Snake Bight Tal ‘and Pauroti Pond (peor from the parking area during nesting, January through May). LOWER RIO GRANDE VALLEY, TEXAS } Species rare ancicolorful—red-crovmed par- rots. ringed Kingfishers, green jays—ive the skies over this subtropical valley a Mexican tinge. Clustered from Roma to South Padre island, the Werld Birding Centers nine sites incluce Bentsen-Rio Grand Valley State Park, with 300-plus species in junele-lke woods, ROSQUE DEL APACHE, NEW MEXICO } Each winter, upto 15.000 sandhil cranes ‘gather at tis 90-square-mile refuge on the Rie Grande. The shill buglng cal of fur-foot tall cranesin ight echoes some two miles away, Cranes and snow geese fil the skies dur ing dawr's"fy-out" when they depart to feedin nearby fields. and evening's “fiyin FRASER RIVER VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA } October through early winter. stag: ‘ering numbers of bald eagles roost and feed inthe valey east of Vancouver Last season, ‘record 7000 raptors scattered along a 20-mille stretch east of Mission. Tr the vantages, _at Eagle Point Community Park anc Tapadera Estates, or board a"safar'river tour.NEXT STOP Experience the Taste of South Africa at Whole Foods Market’ Visit select Whole Foods Market locations in New York City (Upper West Side], Los Angeles (Fairfax), and Chicago (South Loop] on October 15 from 12:3 p.m. {local time) to enjoy a tasting of authentic. South Affican foods and wines. You'll ‘060 have the opportunity to enter for chance to win a trip to South Affical > Yok “WorldMags” SIGNATURE EVENTS AND PROMOTIONS With a Click of Your Shutter Win the Adventure of a Lifetime HILTON | * HHONORS Québec: A Talent for the Art of Living! ‘Across the Vermont border lies on outdoor playground of nature, @ feast for the senses, and a balm for the soul. Spa-goers, outdoor lovers, and culture vultures wil find a multitude of relaxing pleasures in scenic destination known for ts ristoricvilages, wineries, national pris, and it rich regional cuisine. Visi easterntownships.org. The Eastern Townships of Wy We're Looking for the Next Generation of Explorers! The annual National Geographic Kids Hands-On Explorer Challenge invites young adventurers to enter fora chance to win an exciting ‘expedition to scenic Montana led by National Geographic exper. Fifteen kids ages 9-14 (and one parent each) will explore the wonders of the American West. For official rules and entry information, go to kids.nationalgeographic.com/kids/ contests /explorer-frip-2012. A tovender dn Fch Boy. Magoo, EASTERN TOWNSHIPS.orc sponsored by MONTANA CANTONS bE L'EST.com“SMART TRAVELER ‘Rockstars Guests at the View Hotel admire the sandstone Mitten buttes of Monument Vale. Southwest Dream Catchers Arizona and New Mexico hotels with American Indian connections offer cultural experiences, | ay CHRISTOPHER HALL the 100-room Moenkop Legacy Inn and Suites (Irom $89) became the first new hotel in 50 years on Hopi tribal lands when it opened in 2009 near ‘Tuba City, Ariz., about 50 miles from the ‘astern entrance to Grand Canyon National Park. Hopi artwork—kachinas, baskets, silver jewelry, and more—Fills public areas, old photos provide a fasci- nating glimpse of historic village life, and ‘weekly programs illuminate Hopi agri- ‘cultural practices, During hotel-arranged