B.

LAB: Top Skin Whitening Ingredients (Part 2)

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Top Skin Whitening Ingredients (Part 2)

Here we review 6 well known ingredients in skin whitening products that bring about skin lightening by primarily working in Phase 2 or during melanin synthesis. 1. Undecylenol Phenylalanine (UP) The latest discovery in skin whitening technology, Undecylenol Phenylalanine is a known as Apha-MSH (Melanin Stimulating Hormone) antagonist. This means it reduces melanin by influencing that trigger melanin synthesis in Phase 2, ultimately leading to lighter skin. It combines Lipoamines with Phenylalanine (naturally generated by your liver) to stop the conversion of raw materials such as enzymes/proteins into melanin. Because of this mechanism, it lightens skin without damaging the skin structure (unlike Hydroquinone and Arbutin). Effectively controls pigmentation occurring from: UV Rays leading to increased cytokine triggers (general tanning) Hormonal imbalances leading to alpha-MSH triggers (hyper-pigmentation) Benefits: Reduces melanin at skin surface Evens out skin tone Reduces hyper-pigmentation Safety and Efficacy: Undecylenol Phenylalanine is proven to be more effective in independent tests against Hydroquinone, Arbutin and Kojic Acid. According to a greek study it is a safe, effective and inexpensive therapeutic alternative for solar lentigines (dark spots). In a US study, Undecylenol Phenylalanine is considered an effective and valuable treatment for melasma. Undecylenol Phenylalanine is considered safe and non-irritant even with long term use due to its non-cytotoxic (doesnt damage cell structure) method. 2. Hydroquinone Hydroquinone is a popular chemical used to treat skin pigmentation issues. Hydroquinone occurs both in nature (wheat, coffee, tea, beer, wine, berries) and is industrially manufactured. Hydroquinone is a Phase 2 ingredient, which reduces pigmentation by inhibiting Tyrosinase and reducing the amount of melanin generated. Safety and Efficacy Hydroquinone a bleaching agent is considered highly effective in treating hyper-pigmentation but is known to produce severe side effects. During the melanin inhibition process, Hydroquinone breaks down in the body to generate several by-products, which are considered to harmful to the cell structure, kidneys and DNA.

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B.LAB: Top Skin Whitening Ingredients (Part 2)

forming) nature.

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As a result, Hydroquinone is banned by the European Union in topical products due to its potential carcinogenic (cancer

Its most dangerous side effect, although not common, is called Ochronosis, which occurs with prolonged use even at low levels of hydroquinone concentration. Ochronosis is the appearance of dark spots/lesions in blue and black color in areas where hydroquinone is applied. Hydroquinones oxidative effects are sometimes seen as hypo-pigmentation (white spots) in areas far away from where it is topically applied. Other side effects could include: Inflammation Skin Irritation Contact Dermatitis Skin ageing Dark nails Note: One should not use hydroquinone without a doctors supervision. 3. Arbutin Arbutin is naturally occurring variant of Hydroquinone. Arbutin is available in two forms alpha and beta with alpha being more stable. Alpha-A is a synthetic form and used more commonly due to its higher efficacy in skin lightening products. Arbutins skin lightening mechanism is similar to hydroquinone, meaning it is a Phase 2 active. It works by inhibiting Tyrosinase conversion to melanin. Safety and Efficacy: Arbutin has shown good initial testing results at a molecular level, however has not been proven in cellular or clinical level. However, Arbutins by product includes Hydroquinone. European Commissions study on consumer safety does not recommend ingredients with possible generation of Hydroquinone before or after. Given that many more alternatives exist in the market that do not have the same potential for side effects of Arbutin, we suggest not using Arbutin based products. 4. Azelaic Acid Azelaic acid is commonly used in treating acne and rosacea. However, some research shows that it is a potential Phase 2 skin lightener. It works by reducing Tyrosinase action, and therefore reduces the amount of melanin produced due to hyperactive melanocytes. Melanocytes are melanin-forming cells. Side Effects and Efficacy Azelaic acid may not be effective in improving general pigmentation (tanning) and may influence inhibiting melanin production in overactive melanocytes making it useful in treating hyperpigmentation problems such as in post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation due to sun damage or acne scars or even melasma. Some side effects include: Short term inflammation Itching Burning 5. Kojic Acid Kojic acid is an anti-botic compound derived from fungus during fermenting process. Kojic acid works by chelating effect (binds with copper) and interrupts steps in melanin synthesis. Kojic acid prevents production of new melanin without reducing existing one. It has free radical scavenging properties (anti-oxidant). Safety and Efficacy Kojic acid is considered effective for melasma and other hyper-pigmentation issues. Kojic acid increases sensitivity of skin. A study by European Commissions study on consumer safety of kojic acid considered kojic acid safe upto 1% in leave on creams. However, at this dosage very little penetrates the skin to be of effect. Kojic acid could create some severe side effects including:

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B.LAB: Top Skin Whitening Ingredients (Part 2)

Contact dermatitis (itching, burning, breakouts, etc) Inflammation 6. Morus Alba Extract

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Morus Alba extract containing Mulberroside A serves as an excellent natural skin-whitening ingredient. Morus Alba extract is a Phase 2 ingredient, which stops melanin production by inhibiting Tyrosinase. It is also a free-radical scavenger activity it a potent anti-oxidant as it suppresses cytokine activity. Side Effects and Efficacy Studies show Morus Alba to be effective in treatment of melasma and other hyper-pigmentation disorders. According to Korean study, Morus Alba is considered to have lower anti-oxidant action than Kojic acid, but have stronger whitening action than Kojic acid. Morus Alba extract also showed better results than Arbutin. Unlike Kojic acid, studies show that Morus Alba is generally safe to use without any irritation. Summary We have touches different stages of skin darkening with specific focus on ingredients used in latest skin lightening products all of which work by being disruptive during the process of melanin generation. Among these ingredients, we find Undecylenol Phenylalanine and Morus Alba extract to offer the best combination of skin lightening efficacy and minimal side effect. Want to get rid of hyper-pigmentation or just looking to get a flawless radiant color? Find out how thousands of people are using B.LABs GLO Fairness System as their preferred skin whitening solution. GLO now makes it simple to get rapid skin lightening results without any side effects. GLO combines Undecylenol Phenylalanine, Morus Alba and other powerful and safe ingredients with a complete skin care regimen for best results. Learn more> (/glo)

01 Oct, 2013 ()

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B.LAB: Top Skin Whitening Ingredients (Part 2)

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