RESIDENTS JOUrNAL

A FEAST
Kate Jennion explores Richmonds rich culinary history

for the ages

ur green and pleasant corner of London has one of the most epicurean histories of all the citys boroughs. From daring Tudor delicacies to modern gourmet meals, there is a wealth of food knowledge wrapped up in the unique culture of this part of the capital. This month, its been my pleasure to investigate how the tastes of royalty through the ages have paved the way for the host of restaurants, cafs and diners that now grace our streets. As with all good stories, its best to start at the beginning. This part of London has always been home to the great and the good of society. Before there was Hampton Court Palace or Kew Palace, there was a Kings House at Sheanes during the reign of Henry I. It wasnt until 1299, under the rule of Edward I, that the Kings royal court ofcially took up residence in Sheen Palace. Having been remodelled by several subsequent rulers, this original palace was destroyed by re in 1497, paving the way for Henry Tudor (later Henry VII) to build a grand new royal residence, and mark the beginning of the boroughs entry into the world of gastronomy. The new abode was named Richmond Palace, after Henrys ancestral home in Yorkshire, and gave its name to the town and borough we now know and love. Thus, the Borough of Richmond upon Thames was born.

court was one of the few places where sweets and exotic pastries were available, as Henry hired specialist bakers and chefs to cater for his sweet tooth. One of the most controversial Tudor dishes was known as a Grete Pye:

Sing a song of sixpence, A pocket full of rye. Four and twenty blackbirds, Baked in a pie. When the pie was opened, The birds began to sing; Wasnt that a dainty dish, To set before the king?
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Weve all heard the nursery rhyme, but how many of us know that it was based on a popular 16th century dish? The recipe dictated baking an enormous pie crust with no base, fashioning a smaller meat pie to t inside the crust, and lling the remaining space between with live songbirds, so that cutting up the lid of the great pie, all the birds will ie out, which is to delight and pleasure shew to the company. [Epulario, 1598] It is said that this was a particular favourite of the greedy king, along with Swan Pie, another dramatic dish that required kitchen servants to be skilled in both cooking and taxidermy. Legend has it that Henry VIII celebrated the execution of his second wife, Anne Boleyn, by polishing off a whole swan pie in one sitting.

Kew Palace, Image by Historic Royal Palaces, newsteam.co.uk

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Scale model of Richmond Palace, 1501-1603 Courtesy of the Museum of Richmond

The Tudor Kitchen at Hampton Court Palace, by Historic Royal Palaces, newsteam.co.uk

It was Henry VIII who introduced this new royal borough as a gourmet hub. Famous for his large and varied appetite, in 1528 when Henry took over Hampton Court Palace and made it his primary residence, he enlarged the kitchens to cater for more than 600 meals per day. The kitchens comprised 55 separate rooms, covered 3,000 sq. ft. and employed more than 200 staff, making them some of the largest ever built. Henrys kitchens were also renowned for the innovative delicacies they produced. The royal
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RESIDENTS JOUrNAL

Georgian Chocolate Tart Image by Royal Palaces, newsteam.co.uk

Legend has it that Henry VIII celebrated the execution of his second wife, Anne Boleyn, by polishing off a whole swan pie in one sitting
From Henry VIIIs insatiable appetite, the boroughs history moves on to Kew Palace and one of historys most picky eaters: King George III. Experts now believe he suffered from porphyria, and at times during his madness was unable to feed himself. To mark the momentous day during his recovery when the King was granted once more the use of his own knife and fork, the cooks at Kew Palace developed a special menu to entice the royal palate. Some details still survive from the dinner, which took place on 6 February, 1789. Records suggest that the King dined on Soupe Barley, Mutton Steaks and Chocolate Tart the latter reputed to be one of Georges favourite treats. A hundred years later, the Victorians expanded upon the British tradition of taking great pleasure in their food. This was a time of innovation, and exotic imports like sugar from the far realms of the British Empire meant new and exciting meals, particularly desserts, were being invented regularly. Not only are the Victorians credited with being the rst generation to serve afternoon tea (now a traditional British mealtime in and of itself) but their newfound access to fresher and better quality ingredients meant that simple dishes were becoming more and more popular as salt and other condiments were no longer needed as frequently to disguise the taste of less-than-fresh meat. Towards the end of the era, traditional sh and chip shops were becoming more common as the Victorian public was introduced to fast, fresh food for the rst time. Nowadays, we are used to being able to obtain delicious meals whenever and however we want them, so it is easy to forget the weeks of preparation that once went into each and every dish. As the years have gone by, Richmond although still dubbed the royal borough is now more renowned for its green spaces, proximity to the River Thames and its excellent selection of restaurants serving up a variety of delectable cuisines from around the world a direct result of the expansion of the British Empire during the Victorian

era. Connoisseurs can experience Michelin-starred cuisine at The Glasshouse in Kew, just a stones throw from Kew Palace where George IIIs faithful and dedicated kitchen staff once laboured to provide their sick monarch with a delicious meal. Royal residents of Richmond Palace, were it still standing today, would no doubt enjoy being a short boat ride from the delights of The Bingham (which has recently been awarded a third AA Rosette). Even courtiers and borough citizens would rejoice at the treats on offer at the WholeFoods Market, or the newly-opened sugar paradise the Hummingbird Bakery. Looking back, it is clear to see that our royal borough not only nourished kings and queens, but has provided the opportunity for talented chefs like Berwyn Davies and Mark Jarvis to take our epicurean history and develop it into modern cuisine t for royalty and Richmond locals alike. n
BIBLIOGRAPHY With thanks to: hrp.org.uk, thousandeggs.com, glasshouserestaurant.co.uk thebingham.co.uk, flickr.com, museumofrichmond.com

The Glasshouse by Ewan Munro (flickr.com)

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