Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

PART 1 COMPANY PROFILE

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 1.1 Company Profile Orient craft limited was established in 1978 and is one of the largest Export House in India having a turnover of around 725 crores. It is dealing with US and European buyers and is having 21 manufacturing units in and around Delhi. It is one of the largest manufacturers of womens, mens and childrens woven (including denims) and knit garments in India.

Orient Craft was setup by Mr. Sudhir Dhingra (Founder and Chief Managing Director) in 1972 with 4 employees . Having employee strength of 25000 workers it is one of the major companies in the garment sector of India.

Fig 1.1.1 Orient Craft Limited Logo

Orient

Craft of

has big

clients players

from like

all

around

the

globe, Gap,

major Macy's,

comprising

Tommy

Hilfiger,

Dillards, Marks and Spencer, Esprit, Armani, DKNY, Ann Taylor, United Colors of Benetton, LEVIS, Debenhams and many more.

It has an annual turnover of Rs 800 crores of the woven and Rs 300 crores of the knits section and Rs 40 crores of Denims unit. OCL has setup the largest plant ever in Biwardi Rajasthan which has employed around 12000 employees. 2

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 Success of a business depends entirely on understanding the buyers needs and satisfying the same fully. Infrastructure, Plant and Machinery, Expertise of highly qualified professionals and commitment to quality have earned it a high degree of trust to its valuable buyers.

1 . 2 As s o c i a t i o n w i t h d i f f e r e n t c o u n c i l s

Association With Different Councils

Silk Export

Apparel Export Promotion Council

Apparel and Export Manufacturer

Cotton Textile Export Promotion

Clothing Manufacturers

Wool and Woolen Export Promotion

Synthetic and Rayon Export

Fig 1.2.1 Association with different councils

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 1.3 Key Events Feb 28, Company was incorporated under the name Orient Cra 1f t P r i v a t e L i m i t e d 9 7 8 1978 July 1, Established woven garments unit The word private was deleted from the name of the com 1 pany pursuant to section 43A (1A) of the

com 9 panies Act 9 2 1994 Established the manufacturing plant at Gurgaon

which covers an area of over 87,000 square feet 1996 1999 2002 Established the companys knit garments unit Established the companys home furnishing unit Established the multi product manufacturing plant at Gurgaon, which covers an area of over 301,478

square feet that houses the woven and knits units 2002 2003 Established the companys embroidery unit Incorporated the companys wholly owned subsidiary, Orient Craft USA Inc., in the state of Delaware in the US 2004 2004 A design studio in New York Incorporated Freshtex Orient Craft Limited, a joint venture with Freshtex Asia Limited (a subsidiary of Freshtex International Services Gmblt) which has

expertise in washing technology 2005 Acquired a fully automatic denim stitching plant from Levis in Spain and reinstalled it in Manesar, Gurgaon

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2006 Acquired 9.72 acres of land in Hyderabad in

connection with a proposed manufacturing facility 2007 2007 Established a retail venture in India with S.Oliver Entered the SEZ and started major capital projects in Bhiwadi and Hyderabad Table 1.3.2 Key Events

1.4 Major Customers Orient Craft stands true to the image of being 'the name behind names.

Fig 1.4.1 Showroom for meetings with buyer

Abercrombie & Fitch Ann Taylor Bandolino Banana Republic 5

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 Betty Barclay Calvin Klein Carters Chicos Club Monaco Debenhams Diane Von Furstenberg French Connection GAP International George J-Crew J Jill Kell wood Kohl Levis Liz Claiborne Macys Marc Jacobs Marks & Spencer May department stores Michael Kors Mufti Next Retail Ltd Pepe jeans Polo Ralph Lauren Reebok Spykar The Jones Group Tommy Hilfiger United colors of Benetton

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 1.5 Organization Structure

Fig 1.5.1 Organization Structure

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 1.6 Process Flow of the Company

Interaction with the buyer

Cost Finalization

Proto and Fit samples made by the Sampling Department and approved from the Buyer

On approval pre Production and Size set samples made and approved fro the Buyer

On approval raw material in bulk arranged by the Fabric Store

Inspection of the raw material

Production Planning

Issue of material to Production Department

Issue to Cutting Department

Spreading and Cutting procedures take place

Issue for embroidery, printing, etc if required

issue to Sewing Department

Issue to Washing Department

Issue to Finishing and Inspection Department

Finishing and Packing

Dispatch for Shipment

Fig 1.6.1 Process Flow Diagram of the Company

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

PART 2 DEPARTMENTAL STUDY

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.1 Merchandising Department Merchandising Department is the most important department of an export house. The merchandisers relate and negotiate within and outside the company i.e., with the other departments and

buyers/suppliers respectively.

The merchandisers are given specific brands who, on approvals of designs from the design departm ent or based on the tech pack received from buying house work towards the fabric procurement, buyer negotiations, vendor compliances and follow up with the style and the orders till they have been confirmed by the buyer.

Fig 2.1.1 a merchandiser in Merchandising Department

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.1.1 Organizational structure of Merchandising Department Merchandising Manager

Senior Merchandiser (5)

Junior Merchandiser (5)

Helper (2)

Fig 2.1.2 Organizational Structure Merchandising Department 2 . 1 . 2 Ac t i v i t i e s o f a m e r c h a n d i s e r i. ii. iii. iv. v. vi. vii. viii. Sampling Fabric sourcing Accessories sourcing Gather Test reports Production targets and its achievements Quality Check Report maintenance Forwarding

2.1.3 Package File consist of following reports I. List of orders pasted on the left hand inside cover of the file. II. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. IX. X. Tech pack. CAD marker-costing and factory costing. Trim pro forma invoices from the supplier. Confirmation of the trims Commercial invoices (C.I.) Confirmation of the CI from the store Order chart from the buyer P.O. copies from the buyers Fabric order confirmations with approved fabrics

swatches 11

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 XI. XII. Time and action calendar. Hard copy of all incoming and outgoing crucial and

important mails that may be required for future references (buyer related) XIII. XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. XIX. XX. XXI. Mills fabric reports -checking, testing Internal fabric reports -checking, testing Buyer approved Trim card Shade bands W ash swatch/wash mocks Embroidery/printing Minutes of Pre-production meeting (PPM) Hard copies of in/out mails with re spect to production either with PPD/QA/factory-all concerned and important mails. XXII. XXIII. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. Size set-passed comments- (buyers) Pilot-approval comments Internal quality audit reports before final inspection. Packing list Invoice received from shipping department for the purpose of shipment. XXVII. Dispatch details i.e. date dispatched to which destination, vehicle number, number of cartons, number of pieces and sending factorys name.

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.1.4 Process Flow Of Merchandising

Tech pack received consisting of GSS (Graded Spec Sheet) and all the details of the style e.g., trim & construction details

Tech pack sent to the sampling department for development of the proto sample

Fabric consumption along with mini markers from CAD

Cost calculation/ Final Costing

Confirming Purchase Order (PO) and receival

Bulk fabric and trims ordered based on PO quantity

Getting fit sample approved

Fabric Performance Testing (FPT) to conform to buyer standards

Getting size set samples approved

Preparing the cutting ticket in PPC and handing it over to Cutting department

Pilot run

Bulk Production begins

Getting Top of Production (TOP) samples approved

Follow up/ Regular tracking and update

Order shipment

Fig 2.1.3 Mechandising Process Flow Chart

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.1.5 Costing Factors

Fabric Cost -Shell/Interlining Trim Cost - Thread, Label, Zipper, Button, Rivet Cut Make Cost Basic Cost Embroidery Cost

Washing Cost
Packaging Cost Wastage

Fig 2.1.4 Basic Costing Factors 2.1.6 Documents used in Merchandising Department I. Time and Action Calendar (TNA) - This is a schedule for

any orders that comes in and helps keep track of the whole process as per the planned schedule.

II.

Bill of Materials (BOM) - list of all the materials required in making of a garment.

III.

Purchase

Order

(P.O)

consists

of

folder

summary,

color/trim page, fabric page, packaging and labeling details, label placement, correct balance, how to measure, tech

sheet, development photos, and spec sheet.

14

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 IV. Bill passing report - report used in fabric receiving .

V.

Costing sheet - consist of costs involved in the garment and is quoted to the buyers.

VI.

Style track sheet - helps keep track of the order.

VII.

Initial marker planning sheet - needed for costing at the sampling stage.

VIII.

Approval

forms

consists

of

bulk

approval

form,

trim

approval form and shade band approval form .

15

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.2 Sampling Department Here the work of a garment manufacturing unit is done on a small scale or it is a mini production floor. All the functions ranging from cutting to finishing are being done. Sampling is done to get approval from the buyer based on the samples made and for the product development team. The sampling section followed the make through system for produ ction of garments.

Fig 2.2.1 Sampling Department

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.2.1 Organizational Structure

Sampling Manager Master Pattern Maker Pattern Maker (5) Cutting Incharge Cutting Assistant (2) Sewing Supervisor (2) Tailor (16) Finishing Supervisor Finishing Assistant (3) Record Keeper Quality Assurance

Emroider

Fig 2.2.2 Organizational Structure of Sampling Department 2.2.2 Working of Sampling Department I. II. Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser. Getting PPA (Pre Production Approval) from Buyer through Merchandiser. III. Checking patterns workability before starting cutting as

sometimes the patterns specified do not resu lt in a desired garment or desired measurement. IV. Preparation of different samples during different stages of production and get the buyers approval. V. Informing quality related problems, encountered during

preparing samples, to QC. VI. VII. VIII. Revising the specification of the buyer. Minimizing operations and consumption. Innovation of new methods for completion of operations more efficiently.

17

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.2.3 Work Process of the Sampling Department Program placed by merchant Techpack/ Fabric and trims according to BOM/ Shrinkage Report

To sampling Incharge signs on it

Pattern Making Manual pattern making/ Digitizing on CAD/ Shrinkage added to pattern/ Mini marker developed to estimate fabric consumption

Cutting Lay/ Spreading/ Cutting

Stitching Operation Breakdown/ Stitching and assembly Finishing Buttoning/ Thread cutting/ Stain Removal/ Ironing

Sent to the buyer for approval

Fig 2.2.3 W ork flow chart of Sampling Department

2.2.4 Types of Samples I. Proto Sample - made on substitute fabrics, using available accessories and then checked on the dress form. Further the quality checker checks the sample, and makes the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, th e drape, the style details etc.

18

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 II. Fit Sample - fit of the garment assumes importance here. It is usually done on actual fabrics and substitute trims and accessories and sent to the buyer for necessary alterations to be made.

III.

Sales Sample - a certain no. of pieces done for buyer to promote the product. It helps get certain types of feedback about the product and helps buyer decide on the production quantity.

IV.

Pre Production sample / Top of production sample - done on the actual fabric using the actual trims and the fit has to be perfect. It is simply a example to the actual production.

V.

Size Set Sample - done as per the buyer requests and equivalent to the pre production sample except that it is done in all the sizes.

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2 . 3 C o m p u t e r Ai d e d D e s i g n D e p a r t m e n t CAD department as the name suggests is for marker making by aid of computers. This department is crucial as in achieving the target of the company by reducing cost by efficient markers . The efficient estimation of the fabric which will be used in making a sample is done here. It has computers which are connected to the network so anybody can open the file and operate the system. It uses TUKA CAD for marker making.

Fig 2.3.1 CAD Room

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

Fig 2.3.2 GERBER Plotter

2 . 3 . 1 T h e C AD D e p a r t m e n t h a s f o u r s e c t i o n s I. Pattern Making Section

Patterns are made on the software or by plotter if the patterns are made manually. Mostly the patterns are made manually and then plotted.

II.

Marker Making Section

When all the patterns of a garment are ready marker is made. The factors kept in mind while marker making are: a. Mode of spreading b. Length of the fabric available c. Shrink percentage of the fabric d. Number of garment pieces in one lay e. The size ratio 21

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 These details can be entered in the software and marker is generated automatically. CSV (Centre to Selvedge) variation is considered while making the marker as denim has a lot of

variation within roll Merchandisers then select the best feasible marker with highest effic iency. III. Marker Quality Assurance (QC inspection) a. For any unwanted discrepancies visually inspect the marker supplied by the CAD department. b. The length and width should be at least 2 cm less than the fabric laid length and one inch less than the fabric width respectively. c. All sizes in lay slip are there in the marker and the ratio specified is accurate. d. The marker should be placed on the spread with one edge parallel to the level side of the spread leaving 1 cm on either side in the length and 1 inch in width on the unleveled side. e. No marker should be creased, damaged or has over lapped / missing parts. f. When marker length is shorter than the lay length, the pattern master does manual marking. g. Horizontal matching h. Vertical matching i. Remnant fabrics have to be utilized. j. The count of the garment parts is checked . k. The alignment of the parts is also inspected.

The QC handles a spec sheet in order to c heck the above in detail.

IV.

Grading Section

Once the patterns are ready the grading is done according to the size set of the style. The marker efficiency falls between 75 80 %. 22

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

The department has 2 pattern makers, 2 graders, 3 marker makers and 1 digitizer.

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2 . 4 F a b r i c S t o r e a n d Ac c e s s o r i e s S t o r e All the raw materials are ordered and purchased by the stores department and then issued to the various departments. W hen any department wants to get any material, they inform the stores department, which then checks the material availability which is done by issuing an Indent . If certain items are fully/ partially not available then the source is identified and purchase order is placed as per the terms and conditions, once quality approval is received from the concerned authority, to selected supplier on the basis of previous track records and price quotations.

Fig 2.4.1 Fabric Store 24

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.4.1 Fabric Sourcing The buyer nominates the vendors i.e., from where the material is to be sourced or the company sources it from Chinese mills which offer latest technology products at cheap price, otherwise from the domestic vendors like I. II. III. IV. V. VI. Arvind Mills, Ahemadabad Mafat Lal Nahar textiles, Mohali/Ambala Vardhaman, Auro Mills, Ludhiana Raymond, Yavatmal and K G Denim Ltd.

2.4.2 Hierarchy of the Stores Department

Fig 2.4.2 Hierarchy of the Stores department 2.4.2.1 Store Department deals with the processing of inventory. I. II. III. Requisition of material Acquisition of Material Issue of Material

25

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.4.2.1.1 Requisition of material After the placement of order, the inventory status is checked, if the material requirements that are necessary to execute the

master production schedule are not in inventory, requisitions are sent to purchasing, and purchasing places the materials on order. MRP (Material resource planning) provides information to the production department so that it can rationally plan to produce products. For making purchase, the purchase department must have the necessary details like what material is needed for what buyer in order to complete an order of how many pieces, what is the deadline to start the production, what is the amount of the

material needed, what i s the unit cost of the material and what is the current inventory status.

Order Placement

Requisition for material from store Based on Purchase Order Vendor Contains PO No. PO status PO amount Release date

Type of material Unit Quantity Balance Delivery date Status Unit cost

Vendor ID Vendor name Vendor Tel No. Vendor address Fig 2.4.3 Order placement flow chart

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2 . 4 . 2 . 1 . 2 Ac q u i s i t i o n o f M a t e r i a l After delivery first fabric is checked at the gate physically. If there are any discrepancies in any of the details then needed steps are taken for the same. Else, a request is sent to the fabric store and the material is delivered there. Material from vendor Receiving report sent to vendor Material returned back to vendor

Control incoming material

Bills sent to account for payment Received materials

Request to material store

Control store material

Request to return unused material

Inventory transaction report material issued for production

Unused material returned to store

Control production process

Finished product Fig 2.4.4 Material acquisition flow chart 27

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

Fig 2.4.5 SOP for Fabric and Trims Storage

Now, entry is done in the designated register, and then fabric goes through various inspections. Fabric rolls are checked

according to the four point system.

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

Fig 2.4.6 Fabric Inspection

2.4.2.1.2.1 Fabric Inspection Fabric Quality Inspection Report Inspection report of the fabric is when it is received in the fabric store. It consists of the following data - supplier name, fabric code, meterage received, meterage inspected, construction, roll no., dye lot, ticket length, mill width, actual width , cuttable width (min., max.), e.p.i., p.p.i., penalty points in weaving faults,

penalty points in dyeing and printing f aults , penalty points in weft bars / shade defects , penalty points in stubs / stains / holes.

Then

it

is decided

whether

the

fabric

is

to

be

accepted

or

rejected, or is if some compensation is to be asked for.

29

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.4.2.1.3 Issuing of Material Material received at gate

Returned to the buyer

Rejected

Inspected for sort no., shade no., buyer and quantity and for correct unit address Accepted

Send to store More than 4% Rejected

Fabric is inspected for defects like slub, streaks, float, weaving, stains, count and double thread Less than 4% Accepted Check for shrinkage and shades

Buyer is asked for replacement

Allocation of lots

Fabric utilization sheet

Issuing of fabric through MR Fig 2.4.7 Issuing of material

2.4.3 Trim Store The trims store is another store where the trims such as thread, zipper, buttons, and labels etc. are stored and issued as per requirements. 30

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.4.3.1 Process Flow of the Trim Store Material received at gate

Count accuracy check against PO

Random check of 10% of all trims

Should be AQL 2.5

Create trim cards

100% checking

Send to merchandiser for approval against production status

5% defect

Storage of trims is done style wise and issued through MR Fig 2.4.8 Process flow of Trim store

Returned to the buyer and asked for additional trims

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.4.3.2 Stock Details Available In the Trim Store NAME Label, Carton Butterfly, Bar code sticker, Brand tag, Hangtag Elastic, Thread, Interlining, Fusing Polybag Tissue paper Button Packing tape Per piece Per meter Per kg Per rim Per gross Per roll Fig 2.4.9 Stock details UNIT OF MEASUREMENT Zippers, Hanger, Tassels, Cardboard, Per piece

2.4.3.3 Main Vendors of Trims ACCESSORY Cartons VENDORS Classic packaging, Bangalore Adarsha packagaing, Bangalore Wadpack, Bangalore Polybags Srinivas polybags, Bangalore Ujjawal polymers, Bangalore Nikita plastics, Bangalore Threads Madura coats, Vardhaman, Mahavir spinning mills, Bangalore Kesha silks, Bangalore Zipper Labels Interlining YKK, Multi Zip, Bangalore Mahalaxmi, Bangalore Renu creations, SLN Printek, Bangalore Mahalaxmi, Bangalore Vinayaka impex, Bangalore Bala Impex, Bangalore Impetus Impex, Bangalore Tissue paper Bar code stickers Kesha sales, Bangalore Vectra Systems, Chennai Aero Webtex Fig 2.4.10 Main vendors list

2.4.3.4 Documents Used in Trims Store I. Generated Documents a. Trim status sheet- information on trims consumption as per order and style. b. Trim card - for approval from merchandiser. 32

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 c. A register is maintained for the trims issued. II. Received Documents a. Batch plan - from planning department, to keep a track on incoming trims and for receiving new ones. b. Delivery challan - from sewing section to issuing trims. c. Invoice - for incoming trims.

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.5 Production Planning and Control Department This department helps merchandiser to get all the information at one place about every stage at every stage . It gives a virtual picture of the order being in -housed.

W here production is spread over a number of locations, a central department PPC is made to collect and analyze the control

information from each unit to report on individual and overall status. It can be a function of production engineering or as is more usually the case, a unit wit hin the operations department.

2.5.1 Process Flow Chart of PPC Department

Receiving Order Booking

Generate Factory Planning

Generate PCD Plan

Generate Line Plan

Generate Finishing Plan

Generate Hourly Production Report

Discuss With Units Fig 2.5.1 Process Flow Chart of PPC Department

2.5.2 Functions of the PPC Department I. Making a production calendar/schedule by booking the

capacity as per order quantity. 34

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 II. Keeping track on the per day production to check if it is meeting the targets. III. The order is booked to the capacity as per fixed efficiency percentage IV. Lead time is the tame taken from PCD to x -factory

(shipment) date.

PPC receives the Operation Bulletin (OB) from the IED to set up the production target for that style as per the SA.

35

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.6 Cutting and Spreading Department Cutting department is important in cost reduction by efficient spreading, cutting and fusing. Here about 75% of the total cost is influenced and by efficient of cutting department we can reduce the cost and improve profits. To manufacture a garment we cut the fabric into the necessary patterns shapes. These are joined

together by seams to create garments.

If more than one quantity

of style must be cut, a lay is created which consist of many plies spread one above the other. Then the garment pieces for all the sizes planned for that lay are cut. The pattern is plotted on a paper and placed on the top of the lay and then cutting begins.

Fig 2.6.1 Cutting by Band Knife

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

2.6.1 Spreading and Cutting Department Process Flow

Fig 2.6.2 Process flow of Spreading and Cutting department

37

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.6.2 Organizational Structure

Fig 2.6.3 Spreading and Cutting Department O rganizational Structure

2.6.3 QA in Spreading and Cutting

Fig 2.6.4 QA Organizational Structure Spreading and Cutting Department

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.6.4 Spreading and Cutting Department Work Process

Functioning

Fig 2.6.5 W ork Process Regarding Functioning of the Spreading and Cutting Department 2.6.5 The Spreading and Cutting Department has four sections I. II. III. IV. Spreading Cutting Bundling Fusing

2.6.5.1 Spreading There are two modes of spreading I. Manual Spreading First the rolls are opened. A b rown paper is taped to the table surface before spreading to protect the fabric from the rough table surface and facilitates the movement of the lay preventing the lower plies from distortion by straight knife while cutting. It is measured as per the lay length of the layer chart and taped by a cello tape. In case of greater width of fabric, two sets of brown paper are laid across the width. The length of plies to be laid is measured with a measuring tape and marked on the brown paper. One set of workers continued working till the order quantity a particular order was fulfilled. F irst ply of the 39

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 fabric is spread up to the required length and taped to serve as a proper base for the upper plies to be spread.

There were two spreaders who moved the roll from both edges of the table across the length of the table. One more spreader helped spread it across the length of the table as per the desired lay length with a long wooden ruler and aligned the fabric selvedge. At the other end a helper kept the lay level. Here the helper cut the fabric with the help of hand shears. If the roll got exhausted midway during spreading , the spreader would enter the details in the register to keep track of the end bits and the total number of plies obtained from the roll , etc.

II.

Automatic Spreading

Fig 2.6.6 Automatic spreading machine

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 The preparation of spreading process is same as that of manual spreading. Spreading begins with the loading of the fabric roll

in the machine. Here opening of the fabric is not required. The automatic spreader travels along the two ends of the table and starts spreading the fabric. At the other end, the helper cut the fabric with the help of hand shears.

An operator stationed on the traveler smoothed the fabric as it traveled along the length of the lay. An operator entered the roll number, the number of plies and the end bit left like the manual spreading process. This was followed by marker

placement on the lay.

2.6.5.2 Cutting

Fig 2.6.7 Cutting with straight knife

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 Cutting is done with a straight knife for all types of fabric. Up to three cutters did the cutting work simultaneously to quickly end the process. The remnants were collected by the helper to create free movable space for cutting and to prevent the floor from getting messed up. The cut parts were tied by the helper. These parts were collected and sent to ticketing and bundling section. These were later dispatched to the production floor.

2.6.5.2.1 Documents Used I. II. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. IX. X. XI. XII. Style file Cutting register Fabric Challan file Fabric Relaxation register Cutting Inspection file Lot Information file Sober register End Bits register Part Change register Cutting Quality Defect Report file Cutting Issue register Blade and Scissors Record register

2.6.5.3 Bundling and Ticketing It takes place in the cutting room. Ticketing operations are done by ticketing guns. The tickets have information about the lot number, layer number, ply number etc. Bundling is manual; every bundle has a tag which contains the entire description of the garment size, shade, etc. In case of fabrics like denim where the ticket cannot be stuck to the parts, the number is written on the panels with chalk.

42

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

Fig 2.6.8 Bundling and Ticketing

Fig 2.6.10 Fusing section 43

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.6.5.4 Fusing 2.6.5.4.1 Process Flow Chart Fusing

Fig 2.6.9 Process Flow Chart Fusing

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.7 Industrial Engineering Department The Industrial engineering department is primarily responsible to make sure that production goes on smoothly. The monitoring of the line from the line setting period, throughout the production process is being done. The IE department gets a copy of the operation bulletin and line layout.

Fig 2.7.1 Industrial Engineering Department Here time study and capacity study are done and line plan is made keeping in mind the various constraints such as availability of machines and the annual budget of the company. P roblem areas are identified and it helps smoothen not only the material flow but also the operation by providing the operator with work aid and attachments thus helping in reducing SAM and the throughput time of the garment produced.

45

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.7.1 Work Process of the Department

Fig 2.7.2 W ork flow chart of IE department

2.7.2 Functions of Industrial Engineering Department I. Feeding and maintaining data in ERP

Maintains and monitor the batch-wise production data and at the end of the day prepares report and manpower employed for a particular style on a particular day and feed it in ERP. This data is used for cost calculation.

II.

Incentives for W orkers

Group incentives are given to batches which reach the production target on or before time . Cash incentives are given as bonus . These are given on a monthly basis.

46

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 III. Factory and Process efficiency calculation

It has the responsibility of keeping a track on factory and process efficiency. floor Factory efficiency is calculated in terms of sewing Efficiency = (SAM * production) / (480 *

efficiency.

manpower). The factory efficiency is monitored daily. The average of

efficiencies of the styles running for a particular month is ta ken. Factory is kept/blocked against a set efficiency as per the orders being processed in that month. The booked and average

efficiencies are compared to get the performance of the factory.

IV.

Utilization

of

jigs,

folders

and

attachment s

making

the

operation easier. Special machine requirements are put up as and when required. Work place layout and environment is taken care of ex - pick up and disposing off garment part s, sitting posture, lighting

conditions, layout setup for a particular style, material movement, etc.

V.

Identifying bottle neck operations and taking measures to eliminate them

Motivating operator for the difficult operations and suggesting best possible method to do the operation and increasing the number of machinery in case of time taking operations.

2.7.3 Role of Industrial Engineering Department in Production Development I. II. To make operation bulletin for each style To calculate SAM for each style with the help of GSD (General Sewing Data). The Sam includes personal fatigue allowance + machine delay al lowance + bundle handling time III. To calculate total number of ma chines required for each style 47

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 IV. To calculate total number of operators and h elpers required for each style V. To allocate operator as per Skill Mat rix for particular

preparation VI. To calculate thread consumption per garment of each style from sample garment VII. To calculate thread consumption for top stitch and bo ttom stitch according to SPI VIII. IX. To calculate down time for each batch To identify production loss and find the s teps to reduce production loss X. To identify steps to increase production efficiency

2.7.4 Documents used in IE Department I. Received a. PO sheet and tech pack- for OB and SAM calculation b. Pre-production planning c. Daily production reports - from production floor for keeping a check on the factory efficiency

II.

Generated a. Operator Grading Form (Skill matrix) b. Operation Bulletin c. Hourly production report for each operator d. Machine layout e. Time and motion study f. Factory costing reports g. OCR- Order Completion Report (i) Style wise efficiency report (ii) DC-for getting machinery issued from the

maintenance for batch setting.

48

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.8 Sewing Department Sewing Department is the backbone of the industry. Here the garment takes its final shape. Better the sewing process, better the quality and profits. The basic aim is to produce more and better garments in less time. The garments are made as per the specifications of the buyer. clothing manufacture is The application of technology to with the achievement of

concerned

satisfactorily sewn seams or less defects.

Fig 2.8.1 Sewing Department - Production Floor

49

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.8.1 Work Process of Sewing Department

Fig 2.8.2 Process flow chart of Sewing Department

W ith a new style comes the information like operation breakdown, sewing details, critical operations, etc. on the display board. A garment sample is displayed for any kind of reference at the end of the line.

Line is set as per line layout plan. Operations are assigned to the operators by supervisors. Required SPI, thread tension and

needle number is set by supervisors and mechanic. Line Incharge and supervisor give directions to operators for performing the operations. In Line checkers and line QC see if the desired quality is coming out from each operation is as per the quality

specifications.

A report is prepared by the In Line checkers and On Line QC for style quality progress. Industrial Engineer do es the operations study again, if any change needs to be incorporated in the layout 50

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 and working method for quality and production purpose, immediate action is taken. When the output is complete, it is checked by final checkers again to ensure the product quality.

2.8.2 People involved in Batch Setting Production Manager

Quality Assurance General Manager

Industrial Engineering Department

Factory Technician

Floor In Charge

Quality in Charge

Batch Quality Control

Line in-charge

Supervisor

Mechanic

Operator Fig 2.8.3 People involved in Batch Setting

51

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 On an average each of the seven lines has 45 machines 4 tables 1 line in charge 3 supervisors 10 helpers 2 inline checkers 1 line QC

2.8.3 Documents used in the Production Department I. Broken needle maintenance record

One person is kept to maintain this record near the production floor. And the broken needle s are submitted to the maintenance department.

II.

Needle disposal log

It is used to keep record of the number of needles broken by a particular operator, on particular style and on a particular m/c. The signature of the operator is obtained against each entry.

III.

Machine maintenance record

Every machine is cleaned and checked by the operators before and after starting the work on the machine. Machine maintenance card is put on each and every machine. Machine maintenance is done on weekly and monthly basis. A corrective action is taken by the maintenance department in case of any type of breakdown.

IV.

Attendance report

Helps keep track of the attendance of each worker, line and floor. It has employees designation, name, shift code, in time, out time, joining date, last work date, total absenteeism until now, resign and work du ration.

52

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 V. Line feed form

The feeder of the line maintains a regular record of the nu mber of pieces loaded per hour which includes the batch number, size and grand total per day.

VI.

Production Report

It has the input & output of the line and daily & total dispatch until now and tells us at which stage (cutting, sewing and dispatch) the work is getting blocked.

VII.

Hourly production report

It tells the hourly inputs and output and the action taken to set it right. To the same report a mechanics reporting format is attached that gives an idea of time wasted in machine breakage and type of problem encountered.

53

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.9 Finishing and Packing Department Finishing is the last stage of garment production before shipment where garment gets its desired look. Each garment undergoes various finishing processes. Garments undergo quality check for several numbers of times which rid it of defects if any. Here buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.

2.9.1 Work Process of the Department

Fig 2.9.1 Process flow chart of Finishing and Packing Department 54

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2 . 9 . 2 O p e r a t i o n s P e r f o r m e d At F i n i s h i n g S t a g e I. Thread cutting Uncut threads ruin the presentation of finished and packed

garments and leads to rejections. An hourly production record i s maintained for the thread cutting workers. II. Spotting The spotting section has facility to remove stains ex - oil, spots and stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and various others. III. General Checking

Fig 2.9.2 General Checking This section plays a crucial role in ensuring the end quality of garment. Finishing in charge or supervisors teach checkers the correct method of garment checking. Each quality checker has stickers for marking defects and thread clippers. S/he checks the 55

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 garments thoroughly and marks the defects with arrow stickers a n d t o u n c u t t h r e a d s i f a n y, t h e n p u t s t h e p a s s p i e c e i n t h e b a s k e t below the inspection table. Its their responsibility to take the defective pieces for correc tion and after correction put them in the pass pieces basket. The defects found at this stage are broadly of the following type s a. Stitching defects b. Stains c. Finishing Defect d. Holes/ Cut/ Fabric defects Every checker sticks their allotted number the garment passed by them. Every time a defective pie ce is found at a later stage it is traced back to the checker who passed it. The checker is then shown the mistake so that it is not repeated again. They checkers are given regular on-the-job training. IV. Seam Ironing Next the garment boxes are passed to ironer who ironed the seams. The ironing machines being used for this purpose are Steam Ironing Tables with Vacuum Boards. V. Alterations An hourly and daily record of the number of pieces altered is maintained. embroidery department. VI. Final Ironing As soon as a new style is received, the ironing supervisors analyze the style as per the critical instructions given in the folder. Based on the ironing instructions are given to the ironing operators about the correct way of ironing the garments . VII. Final Checking In this section the overall look of the garment is checked. For 56 In the case of defects are taken like button/buttonhole to the and

pieces

back

concerned

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 stain removal at this stage, every table is provided with a stain removal gun and a thread clipper to cut the uncut threads. All the defective pieces are sent for alteration, V I I I . Ta g g i n g a n d P a c k i n g The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and packing section. It is the responsibility of packing supervisor to provide the tagging operator with the appropriate price and brand ticket or tags. W hen a new style arrived in the tagging section, the packing supervisor placed the necessary tags in the racks provided and instructs the t a g g i n g o p e r a t o r. T h e m o s t i m p o r t a n t t h i n g t o b e k e p t i n m i n d while placing the tag was to match the size mentioned on the main label and the size on tag or ticket. IX. Presentation Checking and Carton Packing

Fig 2.9.3 Carton Packing

57

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 After tagging garments are packed as per the buyer specification. The packed garments are checked for presentation. The packed garments are checked for a. Polybags are as per specification b. Tags and price ticket should be as per specification c. Packing is secured or not if specified d. Polybags should not be soiled and torn e. Hangers are there or not if specified f. Garment has been folded as pe r specification etc.

After checking is done garments are sent for carton packing. The following is kept in mind during carton packing a. Number of garments to be packed in one carton b. Ratio asked for example M:L:S=2:1:2 c. Get the cartons tested for bursting strength d. Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified e. Closing the cartons with cellophane tape f. Sealing the cartons with plastic cord g. Writing on carton information like store or buyer name, buyer's address, ratio, net weight of the carton etc. Again checking is done and if the lot passes, then the

consignment is send for shipment along with a packing list which comprises of a. Style no. b. P.O. no. c. Size ratio and mix d. Color e. Gross weight f. Net weight g. Dimensions h. Labels i. Air or Ship shipment

58

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.10 Quality Assurance Department Quality is a pre dominant factor when a buyer is buying the garments from the export house and an important consideration while placing the order. Quality is something which is right the first time or following the standards being developed by making the specifications and documenting them such that they are

communicated to all the employees of the organization.

The quality checkers are trained as soon as the new style arrives in the factory about how they are to check the garment.

2.10.1 Work Process of the Department

Fig 2.10.1 W ork process flow chart of Quality Assurance Department

59

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2 . 1 0 . 2 Q u a l i t y As s u r a n c e c h e c k p o i n t s I. Fabric store A small blanket of the fabric is cut and then taken for testing in the testing lab.

II.

Spreading and Cutting Here while laying the operator check s the lay and before cutting the marker developed on the CAD is placed on the lay and checked with production patterns for accuracy.

III.

Bundling and Ticketing Here the bigger part of the garments are checked and send for recut in case of any discrepancy.

IV.

Sewing In sewing, a 100 % inspection is done inline as well as end of line.

V.

Dry Processing If garment have any dry processing operation on them then garment is taken from the sewing floor they are checked by the quality checkers.

VI.

Washing Quality check ensures the quality of good s coming to washing. After washing the shades are matched according to the shade band and if the shade is not matching or not lying in the range then it is rejected.

VII.

Finishing This section has most number of QC points starting from the middle checking where the garment is checked from inside and outside, then final check where the quality is checked by 60

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 looking at the top side of the garment . Then garment goes to measurement checking to ensure the fit of garment. In the end garment is checked for presentation and packed.

VIII.

Final Audit Final Audit is done internally by quality auditor and externally by buyer's QC. They use SQC as their tool as check few pieces so as to get the idea of the lot.

Fig 2.10.2 Cartons for Audit 61

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.10.3 Documents Being Maintained I. Initial Report

This is also called Pilot run report and usually done for 100 150 pieces. Internal quality auditors and buyers approved quality auditors do this initial checking. The construction, measurements, etc are mentioned in the production package are checked and visual auditing is done. The bulk production begins when the buyers QC gives an approval to this report. II. Component Report

This report is made first day when the first piece is produced and contains information like construction details, placement of labels, embroidery, printing, patches, buttons , etc. It helps in checking when the bulk production starts. III. In Line Audit

It takes place after 10% of order quantity has been packed. T he auditing is done on AQL 2.5 l evel. The quality auditors chart take out number of pieces for the style which have been packed and checked for all the measurements, stitching and construction discrepancies. They mark the defects and keep them aside. The numbers of defective pieces are counted and if it doesnt meet the acceptance level specified in the chart then the whole packed shipment has to be opened and all the pieces are checked for defects and sent for mending. Thi s audit is done both internally and externally and requisite reports maintained. IV. Mid Line Audit

This audit takes place after 45% 50% of order quantity ha s been packed. The auditing is done on AQL 2.5 level. The sample size is greater here. 62

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 V. Final Audit

This audit takes place after 80% or more of order quantity has been packed. VI. Packing Audit

It is most strict of all audits. A packing list is prepared by the production department for each style being produced, finished and packed. The packing list state s the quantity packed in each carton, the color, the size ratio , etc. The QA study this and the packing specifications of the buyers. Discrepancies like wrong size ratio, wrong color, wrong packing, missing shipping marks, faulty packing material used, def ective poly bag and any other can lead to the rejection of the shipment.

63

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.11 Information Technology Department Information Technology machines is and useful the with ERP the introduction of

programmable

(Enterprise

Resource

Planning) which helps in faster production and transparency of the information throughout the organization respectively.

This

department

maintains

ERP

and

takes

care

of

all

the

computerized machines and make necessary changes time to time. It also takes control over all the electronic gadgets used in the company ex - CANON printer and other printers which are there in different departments and digital camera/ handy camera to have a central command over the information going out of the

organization. In todays fast growing apparel export business ERP system

available in the market from which one can choose depending upon the requirement of the company. The ERP system currently used is called as Visual Gems. It attempt s to integrate all

departments and their functions across the company into a single computer system that can serve all those different departments particular needs. ERP vanquishes the old standalone computer system in finance, HR, manufacturing and the warehouse all still get their own software, except now the software is linked together so that someone in finance can look into the warehouse software to see if an order has been shipped .Most vendors ERP software is flexible enough that can install some modules without buying the whole package. Many companies, for example, will just install an ERP finance or HR module and leave the rest of the functions for another day. However Orient Craft has all the modules

installed in its system.

ERP is used at all the stages from raising a purchase order to ordering trims and fabrics to follow ups. Talking about use of ERP 64

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 system in the merchandising department, all the merchandisers are given an ERP code and password, which the y use to access their ERP account. Even for placing an order for trims for

sampling, it has to be done though the channel of ERP.

It helps in maintaining the secrecy of information a nd control over the information by regularly check the data been transfer red from one system to other and the information passed.

65

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.12 Maintenance Department Maintenance department maintain s all the machines in the unit. As the machine breakdown is quite unpredictable it is very crucial to the industry. They try to amend the problem as soon as possible. They look after the in machinery and the the attachments/ work industrial aid

requirements

conjunction

with

engi neering

department. They order jigs and other attachments to the supplier and regularly take a feedback from the operators so the best option can be ordered for machines that are not have desired attachments.

2.12.1 Organizational Structure Maintenance Department

Fig 2.12.1 Organizational Structure Maintenance Department

2.12.2 Daily check points I. II. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. IX. Finger guard check Eye glass check Thread stand clean and tight Check on table Machine stand check and balancing Knee pad adjust Stand shoe check and install Oil level check properly/ needles Thread tension set according to fabric 66

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 X. XI. XII. XIII. XIV. Pressure bar rod/ regulator/ spring check UBT machine proper working and check Bobbin winder proper check and maintain Machine and thread stand tight properly Bobbin case check properly and maintain

Fig 2.12.2 Maintenance Department

2.12.3 Preventive Maintenance Service Plan followed I. Service A Monthly check a. Oil tank proper clean b. Gear and bearing proper checking/ replacement c. Oil filter d. All moving parts checking/replacement e. Oil lubrication system checking Service B Quarterly Check 67

II.

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 a. Oil change b. Motor and Control box clean by air pressure c. All moving parts checking/replacement d. Gear and bearing proper checking/ replacement

68

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2 . 1 3 F i n a n c e a n d Ac c o u n t D e p a r t m e n t Finance and Account Department keeps track of all the

transaction that happens from the accounts of the company or its personnel and calculates all the cost to set the CM cost for the merchandisers to use. They take into consideration I. II. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. Manpower in the company Power consumption Maintenance Administration cost Machine Land Sundries and utility Raw Materials, etc.

They apportion the cost of the entire organization to production department, according to the productivity of the department.

69

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.14 Washing Department 2.14.1 Garment Processing Process Flow Chart

Fig 2.14.1 Garment Processing Process Flow Chart

70

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.14.2 Dry Processes

2.14.2.1 Flow Chart Dry Processes

Fig 2.14.2 Flow Chart Dry Processes

71

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.14.2.2 Dry Process Organizational Structure

Fig 2.14.3 Dry Process Organizational Structure

Dry processes are processes in which finishes on denim fabric are given by dry methods i.e., mostly without chemicals .

I.

Scraping

Here denim is scraped or rubbed with sand paper. It abrades the denim yarn and makes the fabric look lighter in shade. The type of sand paper to be used depends on the look required. Scraping is also used to develop whiskers and chevrons. For light 400 or 600 are used and for heavy 320 or 220 are used.

Types of emery papers used in company are 220-very hard 320-hard 400-smooth 600-very smooth 72

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

Fig 2.14.4 Scraping II. Whiskers

These are the horizontal fold marks on front of the trouser by using scraping method. A sand paper is rubbed on the fabric in the form of lines to create more natural look. Here design pattern of desired design is made on the mould which is placed on planks. . W orkers put mould in the denim to make whiskers.

III.

Chevrons

Chevrons are the fold marks developed at the side seams or inseam and are achieved with the help of scraping. The garment covered on the form with balloon legs (scrapping mannequin) which have two legs filled by air (directly come from the

compressor), and start scrapping by using sand/emery paper till the required effect is achieved.

73

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 IV. Tagging

Here fabric folds are held together with the help of plastic tags. The tagged fabric is undergoes scraping or washing to make the fabric folds look prominent. The fabric is first folded in desired pleats and tagged with plastic tags and washed. It removes indigo dye from the exposed fabric and give s prominent fabric and prominent fold marks.

Fig 2.14.5 Form with balloon legs for scrapping

74

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

Fig 2.14.6 Chevrons V. Clipping and Curing

Here the fabric folds are held together with clips and exposed for heat set or cured. This produces permanent creases on the denim. The fabric to be folded is fir st treated with resin solution before natural folds are made and then held with metal clips and se nt for curing. The fabric is exposed at 150 o C to 200o C of heat for about 15 to 20 minutes depending upon the fabric properties. Scraping to make them prominent can be done further. .

VI.

Tearing

It can be done by various methods . The machines for effects are grinding machine and pumice stone machine w ith whose help effects the desired effects are achieved. 75

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 In hand grinding garment is slightly damaged by removing surface yarn with the help of hand grinding machine. Mark on the garment is grinded by hand gri nding machine. In W heel grinding the edges of the garment like edge of the waist band, bottom hem, front pocket , back pocket/back pocket cover are grinded by wheel grinding machine. Before washing grinding is done on pocket corners or bottom hems and after wash it is done on surface of the body.

Fig 2.14.7 Grinding machine for Tearing VII. Crushing

Here the trouser is crushed vertically or horizontally and tightly tied with nylon thread. This tied structure is sent for washing. During washing the trouser gets rubbed together and the indigo dye from the exposed area of fabric is removed. This gives an irregular line design pattern to the fabric. 76

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 VIII. Potassium Permanganate Spray (PP)

Fig 2.14.8 PP Spray

PP (KMnO4) eats up the indigo dye. This property of PP is utilized to get different effects on denim. KMnO4 is works as a bleaching agent that reduce the dye from the garment. After PP spray, for neutralization of KMnO4, neutraper XN (Sulfate (2:1);

oxammonium sulfate) neutral is used. Denim is to be washed before PP treatment.

77

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 There are two ways in which PP can be applied on the fabric Spraying and Sponging. P. P. can also be applied on pr e-scraped or previously tagged/heat set patterns to make heir fold marks look more prominent. In Spraying liquid PP is sprayed on the desired area with the help of machine. In Sponging PP sponging is done manually and PP is applied on the desired area with the help of a spray.

2.14.3 Wet Processes Washing is a crucial operation and a little imbalance of factor such as time, temperature, pressure or the ingredients can cause problems. These are called wet processes because we use

chemicals to get the desired result.

2.14.3.1 Process flow chart for Washing Department

78

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

79

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

Fig 2.14.9 Process flow chart for Washing Department

2.14.3.2 Organizational Structure Washing Department

Fig 2.14.10 Organizational Structure W ashing Department

80

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 2.14.3.3 Process flow chart for Dyeing Department

Fig 2.14.11 Process flow chart for Dyeing Department 81

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 I. Stone W ash

Here pumice stone are used of different size/weight as per the requirement and can differ in time line to give different effects. The degree of color fading depends on the washing time, stone ratio, size of stones, liquor ratio and garment load where washi ng time plays important role.

Selection of stone Stone should be selected of the proper hardness, shape, and size for the particular end product. It should be noted that large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight fabrics only. Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics and more delicate items. Time- 30-40 minutes Stone wt. = 0.5 to 11 gram Dia. of stone- 1-7 cm It depends on the degree of abrasion needed to achieve the desired result. Stones can be reused unti l they completely

disintegrate or washed down the drain.

II.

Enzyme W ash

Here enzymes are used to give even fading in the garment as enzyme attack the dye same at every place. The fading depends on the time, type of enzyme used . Cellulase enzymes are natural proteins which are used in denim garment processing to get stone wash look on to the denim garments without using stones or reducing the use of pumice stone. Cellulase attacks primarily on the surface of the cellulose fiber, leaving the interior of the fiber as it is, by removing the indigo present in the surface layer of fiber.

Cellulase enzymes are of two classes a. Acid Cellulase (acid Xle ) 82

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 It works best in the pH range of 4.5 -5.5 and exhibit optimum activity at 50. (More back staining) b. Neutral Cellulase (Zymax super) It works best at pH 6 however its activity is not adversely affected in the range of ph 6 -8 and show maximum activity at 55 o C. (no back staining)

Faded garment with acid cellulase enzyme provides less colo r contrast in proportion to garment washed with neutral cellulase enzymes. PAS chemical is added with enzymes to avoid staining effect on garments. After finishing Enzyme wash it is must to add cleanup process for better results & garments appearance & tha t can be done in various ways & methods. As clean up is a must process to be carried out after every chemicals steps done for any garments which allows next process to happen smoothly. All processes mentioned below kill/ deactivate the active enzymes proce ss

which is necessary in order to protect/retain garment strength a. Hydrogen peroxide in alkaline pH clean up enhances the brightness & rich blue tone of indigo. b. By using non ionic detergents in medium to high temperature c. By doing two good hot water rinse etc

III.

Stone Enzyme W ash

Here enzyme is used in liaison with stone to give more rugged look and thus advantage of both stone and enzyme. The look becomes better along with being uniform. Time plays a major part. It provides more option by change the ratio of enzyme to stone.

IV.

Bleaching

Here the color is intentionally faded by using the indigo dye with the Chlorine bleaches. T he garment fading depends the time of 83

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 exposure to bleach while a prolonged exposure can hamper the quality of fabric. This also depend s on the liquor ratio.It can be done by various bleaching agents such as Sodium hypo chlorite or Potassium permanganate. For neutralization of bleach Meta

bisulphate chemical is used.

Types of bleach a. Towel bleach b. Sponge bleach c. Ball bleach d. Foam bleach First three bleach process are done in machine and Foam bleach is done by manually with hands

V.

Tinting Tinting is to provide the tint of the color over original or base color thus providing a value addition and two tone effect on the garment. Tinting being used to give garments a used / vintage & muddy look. It takes from 5 minutes to 15 minutes for better results followed by dye fixing & cleans up of superficial dye. Denims are reversed while tinting by using special machine which reverse the garments to avoid

stanning. Chemical used for tinting is sulphur dye with water.

VI.

Pigment Spray

This is spray of pigment to give different color which can be seen as greased or oiled look. This is not permanent and goes off after maximum of 5 washes.

VII.

Rinse

Most simple and easy wash in which just garment is rinsed to bring out the effect of scraping, PP spray and sponging.

84

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 VIII. Acid W ash

It is done by dry tumbling the garment with pumice stones pre soaked in a solution of sodium hypochlorite (5 - 10 %), such that localized bleaching takes place resulting in a non uniform sharp blue/white contrast. W ater is not required as the color contrast after tumbling can be further enhanced by a subsequent optical brightener.

Organizational Structure Dyeing and Acid W ash Department

Fig 2.14.12 Organizational Structure Dyeing and Acid W ash Department

IX.

Sand Blasting

It gives the stone look by creatin g a localized color change. Fading is obtained by subjecting the stone wash garment to the bombardment of sand at various pressures in certain areas such as knees and elbows. In this method blasting substances are generally sand, metal oxides, granules or particles.

85

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

Fig 2.14.13 Sand Blasting

86

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

PART 3 PROJECT

87

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 3.1 Project Diagnostic Improvement of Line Efficiency

3.2 Objective Find out the key areas of line efficiency improvement in sewing room.

3.3 Methodology I. Record stages. II. Examine efficiency. III. IV. Determine production constraints. Consider the course of action (possible solution) to follow. the difference between planned and actual all the planned and actual efficiency at various

3.4 Observation W e have started with observing sewing floor in which we tried to follow: I. II. III. IV. Line Balancing W IP Management Absenteeism management Rework analysis

Fig 3.1 Causes of Imbalanced Line 88

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 3 . 5 Ar e a o f i m p r o v i n g t h e e f f i c i e n c y I. II. III. Operator efficiency Line efficiency Production efficiency or productivity

3.5.1 Improving Operator efficiency I. Use of skill matrix

Skill matrix is record of operators which shows which operator knows what operation and how efficiently. Skill matrix was there but wasnt updated and not used in line setting. The reason given for this was high operator absenteeism and turnover. The

supervisor allots operation to the operators according to t heir experience.

Table shown below is a format for maintaining operator skill matrix.

Fig 3.2 Skill Matrix

Use of skill matrix increases production because we can allot operation to the operator who can perform best . 89

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 II. Use of ergonomics

Ergonomics helps reduce unnecessary movements of operator which reduces fatigue and reduces handling time. In garment industry average sewing time is 20 to 30 % but handling is 70% to 80 % so if we reduces handling time this will automatically show improvement production e fficiency. Handling of pieces was done improperly; they got mismanaged and increased handling time. Lighting conditions should be taken care of to reduce eye fatigue. Value of light intensity for sewing 500 LUX Value of light intensity if dark color 600 LUX to 700 LUX

To reduce handling time there should be a proper mechanism for transfer of pieces from one operator to the next. Either baskets could be used between the two operators or helpers could

contribute most of who are idle. We can use needle light for proper lighting.

III.

Motivation Incentive Schemes should motivate the operator to increase their production and efficiency. a. Incentive for good attendance b. Incentive for more production c. Incentive for good behavior on floor d. Incentive for increase in grade e. Incentive for learning new skills

Incentives individually

are but

normally if we

given

by

company incentive

to it

its will

operator be more

give

group

beneficial as operators will help each other perform better.

90

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 IV. Operator Training

Operators should be properly trained as it leads to better quality and fewer defects. It is observed that the cost of training is minimal when seen with a wider perspective and gives long term results.

Management supervisor should be trained for a. Batch setting b. Man power management c. Skill to motivate operators

V.

Pre batch setting planning

It is different from pre produ ction planning and should be done by supervisor and can be done by A & B plan. Style that running in batch is style A and next style to be run is style B. Here one has to observe operator on the basis of what operation they are doing in current style and which is similar to the upcoming styles operation so that similar operation can be allotted to the operator that will enhance the efficiency and quality both.

Fig 3.3 A & B Plan

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 I f t h e t a b l e i s m a i n t a i n e d f o r e a c h s t y l e t h e n o p e r a t o r u t i l i za t i o n will increase and that will improve efficiency.

Fig 3.4 Factors leading to Line Efficiency Improvement

3.5.2 Line efficiency and Line balancing Efficiency is calculated on the basis of output from the line which is influenced by bottle neck operation i.e., an operation which is critical and produces least pieces in certain time. Other

consideration here is if line is not balanced t hen operator ideal time will occur minimizing efficiency.

Operation

Time taken (SAM)

No. of machines in batch

No. of machines required to balance

Edge stitch collar Finish sleeve placket Sew side

1 0.5 1.1

1 1 2

2 3 3

Table 3.1 Operations leading to idle time

The table shows same number of machine are allotted to the operation having very variation in time so it increases operator ideal time which reduces the productivity and efficiency.

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 If the line is balanced properly as per time study and not

according to GSD then problem can be avoided.

3.5.2.1 Main factors which affect line balancing I. Machine allotment operation takes different time to complete and one

Every

operations output is input for the others. One factor that can help in balancing line that is Pitch Time Pitch time = SAM/No. of machine

Less variation in pitch time will reduce line unbalancing and will manage WIP between operations.

II. It

Operator attendance is possible after we have balanced our line perfectly the

operator is absent of any operation then th e problem still exists.

Points to be remember in case of operator absenteeism a. Follow bundle system so that W IP can be managed b. Some operations are independ ent means they dont take input from any other operation but cut piece, try to maintain high W IP of these operations c. Supervisor or floor in -charge should be capable enough to manage operator absenteeism d. Incentives for attendance should be there

III.

Machine breakdown breakdown affects both quality and quantity of the

Machine

operation. Maintenance team helps but when any machine from the batch doesnt work properly it stops flow of work and problems like W IP mismanagement and rework occurs.

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 A fair number of sewing machinery which is not in use on the sewing floor should be maintain ed and repaired and on-time

checking and oiling should be done so that at th e time of machine breakdown these machines can be replaced by these machine without wasting time.

IV. The

Production System company follows progressive bundle system production

system. For maintaining W IP it is a good option and this also depends on the end product. Above shown factors are factors one should take care at the time of line balancing. For line balancing GSD is used by which we calculate SAM for the operation which helps in batch setting and line balancing. For line efficiency the time taken by the operator for a particular operation and all the allowances added as per company policy SAM was calculated by time study and machine required, pitch time and hourly and daily production. It was compared with planned production and SAM given by GSD.

a. Observation Refer Appendix IX for observed data.

b. Comparison This graph is showing the difference between SAM by time study and SAM by GSD.

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

2 1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2 Axis Title 1 0.8 0.6 0.4 Avg SAM GSD SAM

0.2
0 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41 43

Fig 3.5 Comparison SAM by time study and SAM by GSD

3.5.3 Efficiency/Productivity Actual Line efficiency is line efficiency that has been calculated on the bases of SAM calculated by tim e study. Line efficiency is Production capacity=Available time* no. of m/c/SAM = 480*32/41.2 = 372 pcs Line efficiency = Output / production capacity*100 = 342/372*100 = 91.93%

This efficiency is invalid as SAM taken is not standard, which is a general observed time and thus efficiency is coming high.

Now Calculation on the bases of SAM given by GSD Production capacity =480*32/31.7 = 484 pcs Line efficiency = 342/484*100=70.66%

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 This graph shows the diffe rence between two efficiencies
100.00% 90.00% 80.00% 70.00% 70.66% 60.00% 50.00% 40.00% 30.00% 20.00% 10.00% 0.00% SAM/Time study SAM/GSD 91.93%

Fig 3.6 Comparison of efficiencies

3.5.3.1 Production efficiency on floor On 15 June loading was started but till 19 J une there was no production. Start of loading takes 4 days but generally it is only 2 days. Thus two extra days were taken to start production.

We

can

clearly

find

out

from

above

data

that

satisfactory

efficiency is not achieved and average efficiency is 40 % which is very low, with this efficiency it is very tough to produce order on time and maintain cost effectiveness.

3.5.3.2 Reasons for low efficiency a. There is no use of skill matrix b. Rework percentage is very high that is 40% c. Reports are not genuine d. Handling time is high e. Pre batch setting planning is not done f. Line balancing takes a lot of time g. Line balancing is not done properly h. Machine allotment is not done properly 96

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 i. Inadequate behavior of Floor Incharge or supervisor j. Lack of inter level communication k. Start up loss is more than usual

There are two main reasons those are rework and report that are not genuine. Rework report which are shown to the higher level are not valid, as per our observation percentage of rework is 40% and rework percentage shown by them is 5% to 10%, this difference cant be ignored .

3.5.4 Rework During endline and in-line checking there is high number

garments were found defective. These were sent back to for rework to that particular operator which was assigned for that operation. The time consume in rip -off and again sewing that garment, so its a double time loss or production loss.

3 . 5 . 4 . 1 Ac t u a l R e p o r t

I.

Defective pieces in 1 hour 65 55 10

Total piece checked in 1 hour Pass piece Defective piece

Table 3.2 Defective pieces in 1 hour

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 II. Defect found in garment No. of garment 1

Defect Collar not matched with collar band Improper sleeve placket Buttonhole placket Main label position Side seam pucker Improper top stitch armhole Bottom hem pucker

2 3 1 1 1 1

Table 3.3 Defect found in garment

From the above study we found that 10 garment out of 65 garments were found defective.

III.

Time taken in rework Rip(sec) off Sewing (sec) 50 Total (sec) 95 time

Defect

Collar

not

matched

with

45

collar band Improper sleeve placket Buttonhole placket Main label position Side seam pucker Improper top stitch armhole Bottom hem pucker Total time to rework Table 3.4 Time taken in rework 12 23 14 21 32 17 45 42 41 62 23 95 57 65 55 83 55 112 427

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 IV. End line checking report 51 30 21 Table 3.5 End line checking report

Total piece checked in 1 hr Pass piece Defective piece

V.

Defect report No. of garment 5 2 2 2 3 2 2 1 1 1 1 Table 3.6 Defect report

Defect Tab placement Shade variation Stitch defect Improper sleeve placket Buttonhole placket Main label position Side seam pucker Trim defect Broken stitch Label missing Seam tension

VI.

Final Inspection Report HOURLY PRODUCTION DEFECT ANALYSIS AND CORRECTION REPORT DATE 19/06/11 BATCH- _________ DECRIPTION Shirt 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Total

FACTORY- OCL ORDER NO. STYLE NO. 872275 DEFECTS Work Hr Shade variation Main label attach Collar top I

I II

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 Collar finishing Collar centre out Collar band Cuff edge stitch Front balancing Side seam joint Shoulder joint Buttonhole placket Button placket Back princes Back princes topstitch Back Yoke Sleeve attach Armhole topstitch Arm hole pointed Bottom hem Passed pcs Defect pcs Production per hr 86 4 90 57 3 60 94 6 100 I 95 5 100 I 96 4 100 95 5 100 I 96 4 100 96 4 100 715 35 750 I I I I I I I I II I I I I I II I II I I I I I I II I

Table 3.7 Final Inspection Report

3.5.4.2 Calculation %Defect = Defect Pieces 100/ Total Pieces =10 100 / 65 = 15.38%

Times Taken By Rework: = 427/60*100 = 11.86 % per Hr 60

% Defect for End Line = (21/51)*100 = 41.17% Defect

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 The time taken by rework is 427sec which is 11.2%, this time is a loss because in that time operator can produce another garment so its double production loss.

3.5.5 Conclusion Efficiency is low and there are areas where if we pay attention then good results can be achieved. Every point mention ed above is important for efficiency improvement but most important are skill matrix, line balancing and rework control.

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011

PART- 4 LEARNING OUTCOME

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Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 4.1 Learning Experience

There were many lessons learnt during the apparel internship in the garment industry but when it comes to a single most interesting event I can recount my first day at the production department. I saw how actually the things were done at the sewing floor. The theoretical knowledge gained from previous six semesters was now put to test. Studying in an air

conditioned IT Lab and doing things theoretically was a total history now. As after I came studying out of the Industrial bulletin of Engineering a style to

Department

operation

production floor to do time study I realized how diff icult and struggling my future years are going to be. I realized concepts like using skill matrix to set a line were just knowledge base and that the actual scenario is quite different. It was an eye opening day for me.

There I was amidst about 350 operat ors churning out garments and line in charge and supervisors shouting at the top of their voices to those not getting the desired output. Everybody was in a hurry. Not even the production manager or the IE head were at rest as they moved about the producti on floor with fast pace and raised brows in tension. They were under serious pressure to complete the target and worked with a lot of departments. The operators were at first curious and didnt respond well to my doing time study but by the end of the day we got on well. I even made some friends there some of who were trainees themselves in the sewing department. The

operators were used to working quite clumsily as they were all monthly paid and the same salary.

The most important thing I learned was that all I had learnt or done in my academic life is only worth if I could do my work by hook or crook. If not then I am screwed as far as this industry 103

Apparel Internship At Orient Craft Limited Denim Plant, Manesar 2011 is concerned and things are not as simple as it seemed to me before. One needs experience to do things here as each

activity is so much in conjunction with others it is mostly your wits that help you no matter how much you know as even supervisors are doin g the job of getting targets without

professional degree.

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