The Dutch

In a world where the price of gold goes up and down like anything else, only the skill of the goldsmith can add irrevocable value

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eople love Leo de Vroomen because hes avuncular. With a twinkle in his eye, a passion for jewellery in his heart and a chuckle in his chest, its hard not to like one of Hollands best exports. People respect the smith quite simply because hes one of the best. Apprenticing in Holland and training as a Master Goldsmith in Switzerland, he took up work with a fellow goldsmith in Chelsea. After working part-time as a teacher at Central St Martins, where he met his wife Ginnie, the two set up their workshop in Clerkenwell. Although now settled down in Sussex and Battersea, his gallery and workshop in Belgravia very much remain at the heart of what he is about. I ask about repouss [a metalworking technique], being a terrible toady. Its what hes world famous for. Basically, its a very old technique that has spent most of its life since antiquity on the periphery of the artistic tradition. I revitalised the technique to create owing sculptural forms, avoiding excessive weight, and fully exploiting the supreme malleability of gold, De Vroomen adds. It involves the shaping of sheet metal with hammer and punch, while it is being supported on a bed of pitch. The pitch holds the metal in place and being softer than the gold, allows the metal to be formed.

I ask whether hes just being obtuse. No, not all. Look at this necklace. He shows me a piece with aquamarine and tourmaline cabochons in various shades of blue and green and fabulous South Sea pearls. Now these would conventionally be identically shaped, but again, Im looking for the unique, not a factory effect. Another example of the Dutchman eschewing the conventional is when De Beers challenged him to make the classic diamond eternity ring more interesting. This way, the undulating version shown on this page (centre) was born. I do it to other pieces as well. So many people inherit gorgeous stones in boring settings. I like to liberate stones and reset them; give them more drama and personality so they can be loved, De Vroomen tells me. What are the three top tips he would give to a customer? OK, number one: remember that jewellery is specic to the person. Different complexions, different shapes, all mean different jewellery applies. Number two: buy clothes to compliment your jewellery not vice versa. Number three: earrings are the most important piece of jewellery you can own. People look at your face before anything else and especially in this weather; all you need is a good coat and a gorgeous pair of earrings to look a million dollars! De Vroomen, 59 Elizabeth Street, SW1W 9PP 020 7730 1901 (devroomen.co.uk)

I am looking for the unique, not a factory effect

This is what I made. He places an incredible bangle with two sapphires in my hands. I will never sell this. Its going to the V&A when I die, he smiles. He wont sell it because hes put so much of himself into it. And its this which lies at the heart of De Vroomens philosophy. Theres no skill on my part, if Im just measuring the size of your wallet to a type or size of diamond. Look at this stone, he says, pointing towards the sapphire in his ring, most jewellers, the eyeglass jewellers, would say its a lousy stone, but Im always looking for the unusual stones, the ones with fascinating inclusions. Im looking for character.
Words / Tom Hardman

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