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Trendbook - Alice Woods, Isabel Nascimento, Laura Oliver
Trendbook - Alice Woods, Isabel Nascimento, Laura Oliver
Trendbook - Alice Woods, Isabel Nascimento, Laura Oliver
laura oliver
alice woods
isabel nascimento
SS2015
2014
contents
creative direction
MORBID 404 ERROR AMERICAN BEAUTY
menswear
RatIO XXXy QuIEt anaRcHy
visual merchandising
LyF QuIcKsanD LIVE-actIOn
CREATIVE DIRECTION
yOunG BLOOD 05
404-ERROR 07
aMERIcan BEauty 09
YOUNG BLOOD
YOUNG BLOOD
A growing trend for post-mortem, dying young and blood. A not-so-innocent youth and open society push one-time taboos into fashion narrative. Macabre images form a morbid documentation of unsettling and painful parts of life. In Xavier Le Roys 1998 art production Self Unfinished scientific and social data are transferred and imprinted in hallucinogenic morphological aberrations of the body. As the dancer performers the routine she turns robotic and disconnected. Alberto Polo uses religion, death and dying as a main narrative in his films and photography. His voyeuristic imagery of beauty in disturbing scenarios emanates a dark, eerie mood.
404error
404-error
The eruption of the digital into the physical acts as a catalyst for robotized styling and digital post-production. Fashion imagery focuses on the human bodys integration with technology, enabled by 3D bioprinting and a growing wearable tech market, depicting the imminent, improved, 2.0 version of ourselves. Moving away from a glitched VCR nostalgia, creatives airbrush a dystopian future. Novembre and DIS Magazine pioneer a post-internet visual approach. Both online and offline, their disturbingly innovative narratives spearhead new fashions and names. Italian sculptor Gianluca Traina comments on a potential depersonalization through her distorted 360 portraits, caused by the ever blurring line between humanity and robotization.
american beauty
AMERICAN BEAUTY
A growing social attitude stemming from economic and political fragility and a sense of vulnerability are translated into creative direction through the use of sheer, synthetic materials, with the notion of exposure in mind. Minimalistic styling, stemming from poor economic situations, has evolved to using translucent materials; a nod to stripped away luxury. A voyeuristic approach is used by Ukrainian photography collective Synchrodogs in their Demophobia series, in which sheets of plastic are draped around naked bodies. London based mens fashion brand Cottweiler use sheer polyester in tracksuits to convey economic hardships, whilst artist Do Ho Suh creates Architectural Installations and Polyester Sculptures, in which the structure of buildings are exposed.
Molting legwear from the Graduation Book of the Design Academy Eindhoven Vincent van Gurp, 2010
12 FURTHER READING
Remember to recalibrate your screen before you die, DIS Magazine Dora Budor, 2014
C.E Spring Summer 2014 Ben Drury and Rollo Jackson for Showstudio, 2014
Digital Modern Lighting for the Future SS01 Junya Watanabe, 2000
Stylorectic 2011
Stella Tenant for FW98 Maison Martin Margiela by Mark Borthwick, 1998
menswear
RATIO 14
XXXy 16
QuIEt anaRcHy 18
14 SS15 menswear
ratio
15 SS15 MENSWEAR
ratio
Contrast panels enliven formal and casual looks. Clashing patterns and colour blocking resemble a collage aesthetic, with a 2D, geometric cut-and-paste feel. The panels accentuate flat designs, providing sufficient unobtrusive detail. Within the rising normcore trend, the dismissal of prominence through clothing and the celebration of sameness. Raf Simons mastered the technique with his crisp and graphic 2007 Spring/Summer collection. His use of bold colourblocking became timeless, culminating in his 2014s Autumn Winter designs. Simons influence is seen in Alexandra Poppy McGradys BA collection, in which contrasting paneling is paired with above mentioned normcore, late-90s styling.
16 SS15 menswear
17 SS15 menswear
XXXY
Traditional identities such as class, vocation and race are becoming increasingly fragmented as menswear embodies the emancipation of men. Unisex clothing is designed to suppress the conventions of masculine and feminine dress, privileging an androgynous body. Now, the transgression of gender has moved past the point of androgyny, transforming structures of oppression that exploit diversity within society. For some men an egalitarian future has already arrived. Photographer Daniel Jackson captured performance artist Calder Kusmierski alongside the apparent taboo surrounding men in skirts in his 2012 i-D editorial. Chinese photographer and poet Ren Hang photographs his subjects naked, playing on real existence, banality and gender. The radical artist pushes the boundaries of the conditioned society we live in.
18 SS15 menswear
QUIET ANARCHY
19 SS15 menswear
Quiet anarchy
Internet surveillance and censorship, as well as growing fury over government secrets, raise suspicion and distrust throughout society, particularly throughout the tech-conscious youth. The strive for truth and democracy is decoded into mens fashion direction through the use of intelligent, activist slogans and sporadically placed graphics. A quiet anarchy. Leading street wear brands such as KTZ and Cyber Boy place political statements and arresting symbols in unsuspecting places, down sleeves and hems, on the lower back etc., eventuating into a strong declaration. Bullett Magazines How High editorial focuses on this particular graphic placement trend, whilst carrying out a clear statement.
20 FURTHER READING
21 FURTHER READING
Vaslav Nijinsky
EnzyME 23
DECRYPT 25
HALCYON 27
enzyme
enzyme
A testament to the field of science, in which new research has shed light on DNA, the human form and bacteria cells. We now know, in more detail, about the make up of cells, and have achieved greater understanding of not just ourselves, but also our surroundings and the world we live in. Graphic design direction takes note of this, and uses shapes reminiscent of microbes and magnified bacteria cells in repetitive patterns and often bold colours, to create a sense of celebration of biological research. This graphic design direction takes reference from the 1980s, particularly the Memphis Group or Milano Movement, in which similar colours and patterns are used to create flamboyant pieces of work, whilst still holding true to their postmodernistic ideals. Italian architect and designer Ettore Sottsass, pushed this style within his work in the Memphis Group, whilst illustrator Tim Colmant incorporates ideas of science and DNA make-up in his prints and designs.
decrypt
decrypt
The urban environment and encoded messages inspire graphic and print direction. High tech applications such as surveillance systems and mapping influence this trend resulting in photocopied textures, linear structures and numerical codes. Scrambled type and a lo-fi fashion injection create gritty design and attitude. Landscape architect James Corner is a forerunner of the urbanism movement. His 1996 book Taking Measures Across the American Landscape features map illustrations that form a background to this trend. Decrypt graphics are also evident in modern digital landscape. Phonebloks created by Dave Hakkon is an in-development project that will allow users to build their own modular phone through a series of components and codes.
halcyon
halcyon
Reduced shapes make the ultimate graphic statement. Our overwhelmingly complex reality provokes a reduction back to the fundamental. Flawless, stark designs emerge as loud silence within a noisy visual landscape. White on white, black on black, minimal precision invades graphic design and challenges the viewer to stop and stare. This trends fed from Kasimir Malevichs Suprematism movement, which brought abstract art to the most radical geometric simplicity ever seen and established the supremacy of the form. The artists Black Square originated a new pictorial language, leading artists such as Joseph Albers and Cal Dean to explore the zero of form.
29 FURTHER READING
Filigrees n.d.
30 FURTHER READING
visual merchandising
LYF 32
QuIcKsanD 34
LIVE actIOn 36
lyf
LYF
The growing need to find pockets of paradise and pauses in daily life. Driven by socio-political topics such as the recession, a need to change the regular into utopia. Artists and designers elevate ordinary objects and routines, transforming the mundane into creative artwork and spaces. Our perception of escapism is revaluated as we seek comfort in the familiarity of the everyday. Set designer Gemma Tickles fascination for everyday objects and materials, allows for playful concepts by altering the scale and environment. Marleen Sleeuwits and Nick Albertson look at banal, mass produced items and reimagine their common qualities.
QUICKSAND
quicksand
A contrast between two extremes; the rough and the soft. Coarse textures from sand, stone and distressed foil textures create a certain sense of intrigue, derived from our instinct to touch and experience new textures. The jagged surfaces reflect upon the rough exterior of society, a stark contrast to the luxe fabrics often associated with times prosperity. A graduation from Scandi-chic and natural materials used currently within fixtures and visual merchandising, these textures are painted in soft pastels, in an attempt to conceal the ragged texture, a painted exterior to mask the true identity. Used in visual merchandising, coarse textures act as an invitation to consumers to experience and engage with the retail space.
live
live action
The predicted demise of bricks and mortar is countered by live action. While e-commerce is expanding, physical stores hasten their game by promoting physical interaction with the consumer, expanding the normal shopping experience through on-the-spot services such as grooming, tattooing and live music. Live action flees from augmented, online realities to engage the viewer in unique, real ones. Brands ethos come to life through its consumers participation. Fashion designer Gareth Pugh is set to create an installation space in Selfridges, London, in which customers are immersed in a virtual reality, enhancing their shopping experience as well as projecting Pughs vision in a more conceptual form. Uniqlo worked with creative agency BD Network to create their Feel the Warmth campaign, to support Centrepoint Sleepoint in which consumers can nominate, in store, whomever to receive a free piece of their HEATTECH clothing. This creates a sense of involvement and community, making the consumer be part of the action.
38 FURTHER READING
39 FURTHER READING
40 3d mock-up
It is the past, present and future which enables us to make informed predictions. Looking to patterns and shifts in social attitudes on a wider scale allows us to think of the bigger picture, placing trends into context and make connections between different verticals. I-C is a visual-based trend forecasting service, using a selection of well thought out images to convey our message clearly and concisely.
laura oliver
alice woods
isabel nascimento
isabel nascimento
alice woods
laura oliver
41