WEAVING

PART
II

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE

AT

ARMOUR INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

CHICAGO
U. S. A.

ILLINOIS

WEAVING
PART
II

INSTRUCTION PAPER
PREPARED BY

H. Wir,i,iAM Nei,son
City and Guilds of 1,ondon Institute

Lancashire and' Cheshire Institute

Head of Department of Weaving, Lowell Textile School

1905

AMERICAN SCHOOI. OF
AT

C O R RIJ S

POND ENC E

ARMOUR INSTITUTE OF TECHNOEOGY

CHICAGO
US.

A.

ILLINOIS

LiBRASY

of

OONGf{ESs|
rteceiveii

fwo Copies

APR
CLASS

.0

1905
tnuy
AXC. Noi

aopyriiit

i/)

Copyright

1905

by

American Schooi, of Correspondence

Entered at Stationers' Hall, L/ondon
All Rig-hts Reserved

WEAVING
PART
II.

THE FILLING STOP MOTION.

The fill i)i(/
of a
stop motion
is

one of the most sensitive minor parts

skill

loom and

its

adjnstment reqnires

and

tlionglit

if

tlie

best

resnlts are to be obtained.

There are two distinct forms of

'.

lilling

stop motions both of which serve the same purpose,

e.,

cause the

loom

to stop

if

the

filling
is

breaks or runs out.

)f

these the alter-

nate stop motion, which

will be described

used most commonly on cotton looms,

first. It is attached to the breast beam, on the end nearest the driving pulley, at such a point as to cause the

fork to pass directly in front of the shuttle-box entrance as the lay

swings forward, and is actuated only when the lay is swinguig back from the front center just as the shuttle is about to be picked from This action takes place of course only on alternate picks that side.

hence the derivation of the name.

shown in Fig. 102, consists of the following pieces. An elbow lever composed of two sections, the hammer or upper section, C, and the lower section, B, which are bolted A cam, D, which is fixed together and hung on the stud at C. actuate the shaft to lever. A grate, F, which is pick cam the on

The motion

in detail, as

inserted

the lay near the entrance of the shuttle-box.

fork,

E, provided with a hook at one end and usually three prongs at the
other.

The

fork

is

mounted on the

fork-slide,

G, which slides in

the slide-plate attached to the breast beam, often

bemg

recessed as

shown to admit the end of the shipper-lever. The action of the motion is as follows As the cam revolves it raises the lower end of the elbow lever, thus throwing back the
:

hammer, and as the lay swings forward at the same time, the fork enters the grate as shown at K, allowing the hook of the fork to
rest

behind the hammer Avhich catches as

it,

it

moves back, drawing

the slide with

and through the shipper lever releasing the shipper

152

WEAVING
When
there
is filling

handle, thus stopping the loom.

face of the grate the fork
grate, being tipped
is

across the

prevented from passing through the

lifting the

out of the

way

of

up mstead as shown at L, thus the hammer and preventing any

hook

action from tak-

mg

place.

Consequently as long as the

filling is across

the grate

the loom contmues to run.

There are two distinct forms in which and N. Somethe prongs of the fork may be bent as shown at times an mtermediate form is adopted and in extreme cases the prongs extend further than at N but for ordinary work this would is by far the best for The form shown at be defective fixing.

Fig. 102.

Filling Stop Motion.

any kind of work.

tends to

In setting the stop motion several facts must

its

be considered as governing

most

efficient

action.

As

strain

weaken the
Correct

filling

the fork should be set so as not to

for the fork,

cause excessive strain.

the better.

The less movement required tmimg is absolutely essential.

.

The prongs

of the fork should be long

enough

to reach below

WEAVING
the level of the race-plate, which
If
is

153

they are not sufficiently long there

grooved at the required point. is a tendency for the filling

under them, thus allowing the hook to catch and the loom to be stopped. Also as the lay swings back the filling wliich was
to slip

pressed partially through the grate, becomes slack and often curls

around the prongs

if

they are too short.

This sometimes causes

the loom to stop, but more often the loop so made, weaving down,

holds the fork tipped up and prevents

should, until
it

it

from stopping when

is

it

is

broken away.

Occasionally this loop

woven

into the cloth

is

making

a thick place which, especially on fine goods,

a defect.

With

the fork shaped as at

to

which the

filling is subjected,

quired, are both reduced to

tical or nearly so it is

M, tlie amount of strain and the amount of movement rea minunum. When the prongs are ver-

not necessary to have them pass through the

grate to the same extent as required with a fork shaped as at N,

to produce the

same amount of movement.

is

A glance

only

necessary to see that there

like

is less

tendency for

the filling to slide

up on a fork shaped
it is

than on a fork
It is especi-

shaped like N, and

ally

Avhen the

filling presses

against the prongs

nearest the ends that

it is

subjected to the least strain.

on a multiple box loom that the effect of straining the yarn becomes most apparent, because on such a loom the eyelet would
be in the back end of the shuttle-box as the fork enters the g-rate, and the majority of cases the filling would be held tightly between

the shuttle and the binder so that no let-off

bobbin.

is

possible from the

This being so

it

may

readily be seen that the greater the

distance the fork passes through the grate, the more the filling will be
strained, often to the point of breaking out.

of the fork
it

Excessive movement always to be avoided, because under such conditions often rebounds just in time to catch and stop the loom. When
is

settmg the motion the prongs should project through the grate not more than one-quarter of an inch, and as some forks are made
with short prongs and a long hook, care must be used to make sure that the grate does not come in contact with the slide. If the
grate should strike the slide
will be

when

the lay

swmgs

forward, the slide

jar to

pushed back and the loom stopped without any extra which the loom may be subjected.

To time the

stop motion

it is

common practice to push the

slide

IM
as far forward as
tion.
it

WEAVING
will

go and

set the fork

and cam to
its

this posi-

But

occasionally the slide slips back from

is

position

when
loom

the pressure

removed, reducing the distance which the fork

fixer

projects through the grate with the result that occasionally the
will stop,

and the

having

set the

motion will naturally think

something
its

else the cause of the trouble.

With

the fork fixed

and as it is just leaving the front center set the cam to move the elbow lever with the catch of the lever just passing the fork. If at this time the hook of the fork barely clears the hammer, the timmg will almost invariably be correct when the loom is runninor. There are different shapes of cams used, but an eccentric cam
gives the best results.

correct position, swing forward the lay,

By

its

use the lever acquires even motion

where other shapes cause sudden and uneven motion.

Fig. 103.

Protection Device,

Froff Motion.

THE PROTECTION DEVICE.

The
protection device
is

to protect the
off

out should the loom stop or bang

warp from being broken with the shuttle in the shed.

;

There are two distinct forms of protection devices first the frog motion, which is almost invariably used in connection with a back binder second the device which has the dagger in the center of the lay and is used in connection with a front binder,
;

explanation
;

Referrmg to Fig. 103, which represents the frog motion, the is as follows. A is the frog fitted on the side of the loom B, the dagger attached to a rod suspended under the lay

WEAVING

1^^

outer end of finger Avliich is fixed on the sole; C, the protection bmder U, the with rod with its upper end in contact
the dagger
;

blow in the frog to receive the the steel receiver placed loosely the off finger which pushes from the dagger point; E, knock-off the frog strikes the receiver shipper handle, F, when the dagger ley H, pu tight the with in contact a brake which is drawn of the speed the This checks when the frog is forced forward. the by caused on the pulley some of the jar

loom, and also throws of the brake loom banging off. Incorrect setting

often causes

it and the receiver to wear out before the loom to become broken O, B, A, Pieces, worn. The latter is replaceable when should loom, but the complete device are fitted to both sides of the and At the opposite end, the device driving side. Is only used on the the lay is necessary to prevent which is there termed a blind frog,

swmging forward
receiver were used.

at

that

side

as

would happen

if

only one

With

this

form of protection device more power

is

a to ^ required

drive the shuttle than

when

springs are mvariably used more weight pressing against the

stronger front binders are used, because also on the dagger-rod, and there is

bmders due
but for

to the use of

two
on a

would be about 3|". Different narrow loom the average length One system is to to the same end. systems of setting are employed until the reed is shed shuttle in the draw the lay forward with the which time the lightly against the warp, at
pressing the shuttle

The daggers vary

in length,

this style device

with the receiver, and the brake bmd dasser should come in contact method is to place the shuttle on the raceon the pulley. Another forward until the front side the reed, and draw the lay
plate against

|" of the shuttle is about

This

may

from where the fell of the cloth will be. the inside edge of the temple be readily determined from
this

Settincr

by

method
loom.

the inake

woven, either protect sooner, or have very heavy the dagger a trifle longer. i ,,i .^,i large shuttle is used, On the ordinary Northrop Loom, an extra
fabrics are being

of

regardless ot will cover nearly every case Where an extra large shuttle is used, or

this

requisite strength when being necessary to give the space between the shuttle and the bobbin through, and a |"

forcmgthe
fell

156

WEAVING

found to be amply sufficient. Smashes occur amount of space allowed is insufficient, even though the motion acts, and the cloth produced has defects in the form of thick places caused by the filling being beaten in too closely The diagram at Fig. at the pomt where the shuttle comes to rest.
of the cloth has been

contmually

if

the

104 shows the various positions. At A the position in weavmg; B, when the loom has banged off and the shuttle is pressed forward
until the protection acts
;

C,

when

the space allowed

is

insufficient

and the yarn

the device
is

is

tightened excessively.

third

method

of setting

to have the dagger in contact with the receiver when

is

the crank shaft

slightly forward of the

bottom center.
is

The

other form of protection device

repreis

sented at Fig. 105.

This form of device

in

more general use than the one previously described both for single and multiple box looms, and is undoubtedly the better of the two. It is more easily fixed, does not require so much spring on
protection
rod,

has

fewer pieces, requires

less

and is used in connection with the front binder which is decidedly the most preferable form of binder. As illustrated, the various pieces are A, the shuttle boxes B, the protection
power
to drive the shuttle,
:

finger

C, the dagger

D, the receiver

E, the protection spring

and F, the protection

the lower

rod.

The rod

is

held in close contact with

front of the lay sole,

against the binder or binder frame.

and the fingers, B, B, press Some makes of looms have only

a binder forming the front of the box, while others have a

wood front
fitted

with an adjustable binder attached to the bmder frame and

into an oblong slot cut in the
for this

form of device

also,

wood front. Daggers vary length being from 4" to 4|" long on a nar-

row loom, and correspondingly longer for broader looms because of the longer sweep of the lay. They are also made longer for narrow looms intended for very heavy weaving.
This form of motion
set the fingers,
is

set similarly to the frog motion.

To

draw the lay forward uijtil the dagger is well mto the hollow of the receiver and fix one finger. Then msert a piece of cardboard about ^^" thick between the fuiger and the bmder, and fix the other fuiger in contact with the other binder.

WEAVING
When
Have
the second finger
is

157

to spring a httle

and

it is

being driven on, the rod has a tendency to allow for this that the paper is inserted.
in

the dagger

pomt

strike squarely

the receiver for

if

it

of the dagger and strikes either nearer the top or bottom the point intimation of the edges of tlie receiver soon wear out, and the first been strikhas dagger if the especially this is a smash in the warp,

mg

When the dagger is set to against -the bottom of the receiver. amount of strike high up on the receiver it requires a greater keep it clear from the receiver when the loom is runmovement
ning.
to

This means that the binder must be set closer into the box, increase causing increased pressure on the shuttle and a consequent
of

power necessary to drive the shuttle hito the box. Under these the conditions the loom will be constantly banging off because from entering slightest change in speed will prevent the shuttle
the receiver. the box fully, and consequently the dagger fails to clear amount of additional the to due is There is also more wear which

movement

required.

Fiff. 105.

Protection Device.

Tension on the spring should be as light as possible, only to the binder and the extent of keeping the fuiger in contact with
applying sufficient pressure to the shuttle. tion to this style of protection device is that
the loom

The only
all

real objec-

the jar caused by

bangmg off is apphed at one point, and occasionally a Neither of of this. breast beam is sprung or broken by reason is of well beam breast the if however, these faults will occur,
seasoned

wood and

free

from dry

rot.

Incorrect setting of the

brake

sometimes responsible for the trouble. The brake should for this tends to be applied when the dagger strikes the receiver,
is

stops the

momentum

of the loom.

158

WEAVING
KNOWLES GINGHAM BOX LOOMS.
The term
hox loom
is

or

more boxes
is

at one or both ends of the lay.

with several
the other,

boxes at
fitted

always

with two loom equipped one end of the lay and only one at with an alternate picking motion and only
is fitted

applied to a loom which

FiSf. 106.

Knowles Ginfiham Box Loom.

an even number of picks of any color may be woven into the cloth, because the shuttle having been picked across from the multiple

box to the single box, must be returned to the multiple box before any change may be made. This type of loom, which is designated as a 2 by 1, 4 by 1, or 6 by 1 box loom, will be explained first.

WEAVING
The purpose
of of such

159

looms

is

to

produce cloth into which several

different colors of filling are

variety of patterns
to purchase

any one color may be used. may be woven, but

woven but only even numbers of picks The more boxes there are, the greater

it is not advisable, however, looms having four boxes merely on the prospect of

using four at some future time

present needs.

Unless the larger

it

when only two are required number of boxes are required

is

for for

use in the immediate future,

necessary at the time.
shuttles are

better to obtain only those

tliat

This

may

be explained by the fact

the

thrown differently from new boxes than from boxes which have been used. It is also difficult to obtain the right amount of leverage, and as all the shuttles from the multiple box are picked into the single box there is endless trouble from this
source.

All the shuttles used for these looms must be as nearly equal in

good proportion If they are too small the top edge of the back of the to the boxes. shuttle receives no support from the back of the box, and has a tendency to work in the slot or picker-race in the back of the boxes, while if too large, broken bobbins will often result and the shuttle require more power to drive it into the box, especially in the case of the temple being set a little high off' the race-plate. There should be a space of not less than three-sixteenths of an inch in the box both above and in front of the shuttle. Two very good reasons
size

and weight

as possible,

and should

as well be in

may

be given for allowing this space.

First, the

temple almost

in-

variably raises the yarn from the race-plate and even

slight
it

when very

is sufficient

to raise the shuttle so that

is

it

has a tendency

to strike the top of the box, unless space

allowed, thus retarding

the shuttle, chipping the wood, and breaking bobbins and yam.

Second, the shuttle travelling across the lay describes an

arc, witli

the tendency for the shuttle to strike the front of the box, and unless space is

allowed here equally bad results will follow.

In judging the value of a box motion two considerations ought

to be taken into account as f(jllows: Is the motion adapted to the'

speed of the loom to which

readily changed

and are the parts Acis required ? cording to the practical answers to the above the returns are good A box motion may appear to be simple and yet not be or bad.
it is

to be

fitted,

and

easily adjusted

when

fittmg

160

WEAVING

suitable for the work it is expected to perform, while on the other hand a complex mechanism is not usually a very durable one. A solid compact motion is to be desired, especially for high speed looms, because a motion, the main working parts of which depend upon small studs for support, will not run long without repairing, even though good results could be obtained with slightly stronger parts on a slower running loom. Having selected the boxes, the next proFitting A New Set. cedure is to fit them to the loom and a few moments examination of them may save hours of labor as well as supplies. A set of boxes may be fitted to a loom in such a way that the shuttles will run a month without any appreciable effect, or they may become

spoiled in an hour, according to the precision of fitting.

Of course

boxes must be fitted to a high speed loom with the greatest possible care, or the back of the shuttles will soon
splintered.

become worn and Clean the boxes thoroughly, wiping away all grease
its

from the inside of the boxes, particularly as cause false running of the shuttles. Smooth
of the groove in the binder.

presence Avould
sharp edges

off all

such as are found on the inside edge of the back

Set
all

slot

and the edges

so

the binders
;

that

each

shuttle will be gripped at similar points

slightly

binding the shuttle at or

chapter on Binders.
to

behind the center for reasons referred to in a previous Do not allow all of the flat end of the binder

come

in contact

with the box, or the

filling will

become

cut,

because as the shuttle leaves the box the filling curls and usually
drops in between the binder and the front of the box, and
bmcler comes in contact with the front of the box the
while
if

when
is
fit

the

filling is cut,

the binder touched only at the extreme end there

this

no
the

danger of

happening.

After the binders are bent to

extreme end of the binder should not be in contact with the outside pin, but wherever possible a space of at least oneshuttle, the

quarter of an inch should be allowed for change.

of boxes the binders
set,

With

new

set

due to remove, and the shuttles

neath the boxes.

must be tighter than is necessary with an old a certain amount of grease which it is unpossible to
as well are inclined to be oily.

Set the lifting rod thorouglily by means of the lock-nut underCarelessness in regard to this
is

a source of

trouble as the boxes

become

loose,

and during the picking of the

WEAVING
shuttle the front of the

161

box descends, causmg the shuttle to strike A loose lock-nut is also a the race-plates with harmful effect. common cause of the boxes binding in the slides. The above directions apply to the fitting and fixing of boxes
Before deregardless of the motion employed to actuate them. must be given consideration due boxes, of the scribing the setting

box motion used on the two-harness gingham loom consists of two parts, the Upper and the Lower, the latter of
the box motion.
IChe

which
boxes.

will be explained first because

it is

connected directly to the

Fig. 107.

Knowles Gingham Box Loom.

KNOWLES BOX LOOM LOWER nOTION.

This box motion derives
has a fast
its

movement from

elliptical gears,

and slow motion. The gears are timed and consequently from one box to to impart their greatest speed during the change the cloth. enter another, which regulates the color of fiUmg to

While it is not only advisable but necessary to have the boxes changed in time, it is not always desirable to have too rapid action,

162

WEAVING

movement should be as even as possible. A jerky action in changmg boxes is constantly causing trouble. A diagram of the gearmg of this motion is presented at Fig. 108. Elliptic gear
for the

fi

1, is

fixed on the

pickmg cam

shaft

and geared

into 2, each

having

27 teeth.
gear
of a

Compounded with

is

a 22-tooth gear

and a segment

3, which has 15 teeth. The 22-tooth gear is the first tram of four gears of the same number of teeth, which transmit

WEAVING

163

segmotion to the second segment gear 4, also of 15 teeth. These vibrator ment gears which are placed one above and one beneath the three from the gears C, have one tooth omitted from one side and smallest space, the through always other, motion being imparted

the

first
is

space

segment entering that space. The larger upon the to allow the segments to revolve without acting

two teeth

of the

vibrator gear.-

on vibrator gears, of which there are two, are mounted supare turn in these and D, s leve studs fixed to the vibrator the other end ported at one end by a stud attached to the loom side,

The

to the small being connected by means of the connecting rods E, vibrator or connects which press on the filling cham bars.

levers

is fixed which impart the vibrators also being attached to the box levers, is a compound levers One of these rise and fall to the boxes.

ing bar, F,

by means

of a stud to each vibrator gear, both

lever,

other is a G, which will raise or lower two boxes, and the pieces, K, smgle lever, H, which will raise or lower one box. The

loom,

working of the and, K', act as one solid lever during the ordinary and K' to attached are and and the two box levers,

and N respectively. The box liftmg rod is attached at po'mts means of the adjustmg to the outer end of K', bemg adjusted by at O, increased by diminished or mcreased is nuts at P. Leverage
connection. lowering the connection and diminished by raising tlie gear, 3, segment with cam, T, which is compounded This knife engages with the ends of actuates the lock-knife, R. during the tune the the vibrator levers, keepmg them in position they would tend held so not were they If gears revolve.

segment

to spring out of contact

with the

shells, forcing

the lock-knife out

during the changmg of the of connection with the vibrator levers To thne lowered. chain, and allowing the bars to be raised or

box

center of the highest part the lock-knife, set the finger, S, on the the bottom and front between is shaft of. the cam, when the crank the single shuttle the with mclined to the front center,
centers,

box.

provided to protect the mechanism should happen to from becoming broken at any pomt, if anything shuttle does not a Sometimes working. prevent the boxes from on the raceextending it the box, leaving part of

protection device

is

fully enter

164

WEAVING
and some device were not provided to free the boxes, The manner the shuttle or the boxes would be broken.
if

plate,

either

of joining together the levers, K, and, K', provides this protection.

Two
K',

short studs with tapered ends are set into the

fit

hub

of lever,

and

into corresponding holes in the

levers being held in close

hub contact by means

of lever, K, the

two

of a spiral sprmg,

which
lever.

is

held compressed between the head of the bolt and the

the boxes are prevented from working, the studs in

When

lever, K', twist

out of the holes in lever, K, thus breaking the

connection, which will be re-established

obstruction.

on the removal of the

spring at

the box of lever, V, assists in

drawing the levers back into

To Set the Boxes.

place.

Place the boxes in the slides and attach

the lifting rod to the swivel, P.

Bend

the lifting rod very slightly

away from the loom

picker.

at a point near its center, in order to elevate

the back end of the boxes and thus guide the shuttle higher on the

Loosen the bottom of the

lifting

rod and adjust the slides

so that the boxes

is

may

be raised freely, but not loosely, as the latter

Set the boxes by means of the ad-

detrimental to good work.

justing nuts at P, so that the bottom of the top

is

box

at the entrance

of the

second box by means box motion, and level the bottom with the race-plate by changing the connection of the single lever at O raising the conlevel with the race-plate.
raise the
;

Then

nection to lower the box or lowering the connection to raise the

box.

Next
if

raise

and adjust the third box

all

similarly to the second.

The
and

fourth box should be

not,
it is

right after the former adjustments,

an indication that the boxes are not true.

This

is

occasionally the case, caused

leaving the machine shop.

by the boxes becoming bent before It must be remembered in connection

with this motion, that changing the adjusting nuts at

all

Avill alter

the boxes, and the adjustment of the second and third boxes

must be effected by altering the connections of the single and compound levers at O, therefore the top box must be adjusted first and
the others in order.

Always bend the

is

lifting

rod at the center, because

higher
it

it

will rub against the frame

work

of

bend the boxes, and if

if

the

lower

will

come

in contact

with the supporting bracket,

either

case causing endless trouble.

As

the shuttle

is

brought forward

WEAVING
bv the
picker,
it

165

to cause the of driving t^ndhrg ie^5 this method hereed, towaici towml tne T-i^i mav be brouslit about Tins across the lay. shuttle to run better ^.^^ '^^J'^J'^ out of a stiaigM line forward, boxes the hv havino- tlie back end of forspmdle bak end of the picker withTh^reld or by having the someThe parts are of the box. of line with the%ack

should be so driven that

its

front

end

is

inclined

r^iout

mantimes fitted in this shop, ner in the macbine the not, are they if
but
fixer

should see to
are.

it

that

they

Patent
checks
are
fitted at the

buffers

and
be

made
end

to

of the

box

picker, frame behind the a roU these but in ph\ce of

of cloth or

several layers

together, of leather tacked

may be

used.

Such checks

purpose, serve a two-fold jar on the that of reducing

the shuttle the
also

when

it

reaches

end of the box, and to keep the picker-face

plates, level with the guide essenan latter being

the

tial

of

feature in the running Fig. 109 a box loom.

plates

shows the guide which press out the shuttle if Avhen the boxes change back picker is too far
the

Fig. 109.

Guide

Plates.

slide from the face of the position, the tip of the to renrahr in that wed aU r" pick" which cut the warp wears flat with sharp edges shuttle eventually ^^^ ^, fe, ,,iU eatch and

He

Ik e
rrSe

Sr7ch^

For a cause a smash. boxes from sliding freely, p.ekerthe of ^ the picker on the inner end

166

WEAVING

spindle, a strip of leather doubled three or four tmies will give

good service, and if a leather or rawhide washer is placed in between each doubling, the check Avill last much longer. Previous to placing the picker on the spindle, be sure that it is perfectly straight, for it is not worth while trying to fix a

warped picker as it will never give satisfaction. The normal position of the vibrator gears is with tlie small space on top, and it may readily be seen that hi order to accommodate the risers on the cham, it is necessary to have the vibrator gears almost rest on the lower segment gear, hence the space is necessary on the bottom of the vibrator gears to allow the bottom
segment to rotate freely. When the boxes are to be raised, a riser placed on the box chain, to lift the small lever connected to the lifthig rods, Avhich in turn lifts the vibrator bar and vibrator gear,
is

which

is

momitecl on the bar.

This brings the vibrator gear into

position so that the first tooth of the

segment gear enters the

space in the vibrator gear, which

is

then rotated one-half turn,

being turned half round the

drawmg with it box lever. The

large space,
freely.
is

the vibrator lever and consequently raismg the

vibrator gear

now

on top, thus allowing the top segment gear to revolve

This position will be maintained until a blank bar

to drop into contact with the

m the

chain comes under the small lever, thus through the connections

allowmg the gear

gear, which,

bottom segment
top one, re-

rotatmg in the opposite

the

clu^ection to the

turns the vibrator gear and the boxes to their

first positions.

Timing
the boxes are

Box Motion. Set changmg up or down,

the box motion so that

when

the bottom of the box will be

about one-eighth of an
the dagger
of the

mch

above or below the race-plate, when

is in contact with the receiver. Or, have the first tooth segment in contact with the vibrator gear when the crank shaft is just behmd the bottom center, commg forward. Upper Box Motion. The upper box motion consists mamly of two barrels or cylinders, with the necessary diivmg mechanism,

which carry the box or fiUmg pattern chain and the multiplying A detail sketch of this motion is given at Fig. 110, chain.
lettered for reference as follows

A.
barrel.

Box

chain ratchet, which

is

fixed

to

the filling chain

WEAVING
B.

167

on the box chain. There are two of these, one for the smgle lever and one for the
Small
lifting lever whicli rests

compound.
C.

Connecting rod which connects

lever, B,

with the vibrator

it is

bar in the lower box motion, in the sketch of which

E.

lettered

There are two connecting rods, one for each lever. D. Multiplying ratchet which is fixed to the
E. E'.
F. G.

nuiltiplier

chain barrel.

Elbow

lever.
tlie

Driving pawls which are mounted on

in opposite directions.

upper end

of

E and work
H.
J, J'.

Small lever which rests on the multiplying chain.

Slide or shield controlled

by H.
on the box chain.
of

K.

Small lever same as

Small clamp
fitted

H which rests
around the box

L, L'.

Shield controlled by K.*

M.

elbow

lever, E, E'.

Fig. 110.

Upper Box Motion.

The motion
stud
is

is

driven through a connecting rod with a discon-

necting device from a shell

cam

fixed on the pick-cam shaft.

bolted to the loom side, forming a bearing for one end of a

small lever which carries two studs at the other end, one on each One of these studs works in the shell-cam, and the connectside.

168

WEAVING
is

ing rod, A, (Fig. Ill)

of this connecting rod,

attached to the other.

is

At

the upper end

A,

attached this disconnecting device in

the form of a slotted lever, B, with a semi-circular recess in which

a stud, D,

is

held during the oj)eration of the motion, this stud

Ordinarily the disconbeing fixed at the end of the elbow lever. nector fits over the stud, and as the connecting rod moves up and

down

the lower part of the elbow lever

moves with

it,

thus causing

the upper part to vibrate between the chain barrels actuating the

pawls which are mounted on

consequently
lever
is

its

upper end.

chain or cord, F,
lever,

connects the filling fork slide to the

back of the slotted

and

when
it

the filling runs out or becomes broken, the

of spring fuiger, E,

drawn back against the pressure

which

ordinarily holds

position, in this
it is

way breaking

the connection.

Though

the rod continues to act

so held that the stud remains

in the slot, not being allowed to

engage in the recess and conse^

quently the elbow lever

turning of the box chain.
a fixed position

is

not actuated.

This

action of the

disconnector prevents the occurrence of mispicks by stopping the

The clamp, M, holds

is

the elbow lever in

when

the rod

disconnected.
the crank shaft
is

Timing the
will

Cam.

When

on the front
so that
it

center with the shuttle in the single box, set the

cam
will

commence
box

to

draw down the

Risers

rod,

and the pawl

commence
which
are

to turn the

chain.
are

Chain Building.
levers

small iron

rollers

placed on the chain bars to pass under and raise the small lifting

which through the connecting rods actuate the box motion and thus raise the boxes. A riser is always a starter. Smkers are small iron tubes which are placed on the chain bars to keep the risers in position, also being used where risers are not requu'ed, i. e., when the motion is not to be changed or is to
be returned to
its

regular position.

When
chain.

there are but

two
is

shuttle boxes to be controlled

by the

motion, one space only

required for a riser or sinker on the

Four boxes require two spaces, six boxes require three spaces and when a multiplier is used at least one space more must
In the consideration of

be allowed.

cham building

it is

as well to

start the subject

with building the box chain alone, leaving the

multiplier until later,

and the four-box motion

just described

is

WEAVING
good example on

169

wliicli to work. The main facts to be borne in mind are that the single lever will raise or lower one box and the compound lever will raise or lower two boxes.

A
lift

riser

placed on the chain to actuate the single lever will

first to

the boxes from

second

a riser placed on the chain to

the boxes from
first to

actuate the

compound

lever will

lift

third

and a combmation

of the

two

will lift the boxes

fourth, irrespective of the previous bar.

from first to To return the boxes to

Fig. 111.

Disconnecting Device.

place,

build

as

follows:

To
;

return

from fourth
first, first,

to second a
;

riser under the single lever

fourth to
;

a blank bar

third to

second a riser under

the suigie lever

second to

a blank bar,
are in the

fourth to third, a riser under the compound.

regular or normal position

The boxes

with

the race-plate,

only, is

when the bottom of the top box is even and a blank bar, i. e., a bar containing smkers necessary to retam this position, but risers must be used to

cause a chano-e.

When possible

to avoid

it,

never build a chain so

170

WEAVING
jump from
is

as to cause the boxes to

first to

fourth or fourth to

first,

because in so doing the motion

subjected to a greater strain

If soft or

than

it

should be, and constant fixing will be required.

spun filling is being used in one shuttle, run that shuttle in the top box to prevent the fibres of the loose filling from clinging to the other filling and causing a bad selvedge. Example Suppose a chain is required to weave the following
loosely
:

colors,

4 red, 4 white, 4 red, 4 white, 2 black, 2 green, 2 black, 4

making 34 picks in the pattern. Each bar in the cham has the value of two picks because the shuttle passes from the multiple box to the single box and back again, before a change can be made, and for 34 picks 17 bars are required. Place
white, 4 red, 4 white,

the red in the top box, the white in the second box, the black in
the third box, the green in the fourth box.

Then

the chain

would

be built according to the following directions

4 picks of red will require
4

"

" white " " " red " white " " black "
" green " " black " " white "

" " "

" "

two blank bars or sinkers. a riser under the single lever, and a sinker
under the compound lever, on two bars. two blank bars. a riser under the single lever, and a sinker under the compound lever, on two bars. one bar, with a riser under the compound lever, and a sinker under the single lever. one bar with a riser under both single and

4
4

" "
"

"
" " "

compound
2

levers.

" " "

"

4
4 4

"

" red " " white "

one bar with a riser under the compound lever, and a sinker under the single lever. a riser under the single lever and a sinker under the compound lever, on two bars. two blank bars. a riser under the single lever and a sinker under the compound lever, on two bars.

34

C,

The above is indicated on design paper as shown in Fig. 112; a meaning compound lever S, single lever x, a riser and
; ; ;

sinker.

Any chain where

a multiplier

is

not used,

may

be laid out
of bars

in a similar

manner by increasing

or decreasing the

number

as required, using one bar for each

two
is

picks.

The

riultiplier.

The

multiplier

of great value as its use

saves time in building box chains, and also reduces greatly the

length of chain required.

It

is

especially valuable

when

large

WEAVING
check patterns are to be woven, for however hxrge the pattern
the multiplymg

171

is,

cham

can be so built as to reduce the box chain

to a comparatively small
are

number of bars. In mills where blankets customary to use a double and occasionally a triple multiplier, one multiplying the other. The mulwoven
it is

tiplier

does not control the box motion, but does

s.

box chain, giving to every bar in the box chain, which carries a multiplying riser on it, the value of the multiplier itself, whatever that
control the

may be. A many picks

repeat,

multiplier has for

its

value twice as

as there are bars in the chain without

i. e., a 4-pick multiplier would require only two bars one blank and one carrying a box chain riser, but these would have to be repeated to give sufficient length of chain to go around the chain barrel. The multipliers most connnonly used are 4, 6, 8, 10, 20, 30, and a bar in the box chain

carrymg a multiplying
value as indicated,
placed in the cloth.

riser

has the respective

chain will

because the box

remain stationary while that number of picks are

The box chain

is

is

stationary

while the multiplier

is

working, and the multiplier

is

stationary

while the box chain

working, a

riser

always being the starter or changer from one

chain to the other.

A multiplying riser on the box

the multiplier chain.
of the

stops the box chain, which starts again

cham starts the multiplier and when a riser comes up on

which
will reduce the length

The

multiplier

box cham

to the greatest extent, without requiring an ex-

cessively long multiplying cham, should always be selected.

In a

pattern liavmg 20 picks of one color and 10 each of two other colors it would seem as though a 20-pick multiplier would give the
p-reatest amount of reduction, but this o multiplier mstead would be better.
is

not the case, as a 10-pick

multiplying chain

may

be

used continuously for two or more repeats, adding a bar with a multiplying riser to the box chain for each repeat, or for any number of picks greater than
its

value,

by adding one bar

to the

box

chain for

every two picks

extra,

but it cannot be used for a number

172

WEAVING
its

of picks smaller than

value, hence the reason for the statement

that a 10-pick multiplier should be used for the given pattern.

As

a proof, for a pattern composed of 20 white, 10 black, 10 red, using

a 20-pick multiplier, one bar, carrying a multiplying riser,

be required for the 20 picks of

required for the black, and five

would white, five ordinary bars would be for the red, making 11 bars in all
Using a 10risers,

with 20 bars in the multiplier chain, a total of 31.

pick multiplyer, two bars carrying multiplymg
the black and red,

would be

re-

quired for the white, and one each, carrying multiplying

risers, for

making 4 bars for the box

chain,

which together

with the 10 bars required for the multiplier would make a total of
only 14 bars.

As

a further example, suppose the pattern

is

required to be

composed

of 20 pink, 20 white, 20 pink, 10 white, 2 cord pink,

10

white, 20 pink, 20 white.

Working out
as follows

the chains for

this pat-

tern to find whether a 20-pick or a 10-pick multiplier

better, the result

would be

would be

10-PlCK
Picks.
20 pink

20-PlCK

Multiplier.

Multiplier.
1

1 1

5
1

6
1

13 bars

16 bars

For

this pattern also the 10-pick multiplier

would require the

shorter chain, 13 bars being required for the

box chain with the 10-

pick multiplier, and 16 bars being required with the 20-pick mulIf the length of the multiplier chain is also taken into tiplier.
account, the difference becomes
multiplier, as 13
still more favorable to the 10-pick box chain plus 10 multiplier bars total required, using a 10-pick mviltiplier and 16-box chain plus 20 mul-

=23

tiplier

36

bars

total

required

using a 20-pick

multiplier.

The length of the multiplier chain, however, should not much consideration as in building a multiplier chain

receive too
it is

only

necessary to place a single riser on one bar as a changer.

WEAVING
As

173

a pattern where a larger multipler will allow the use of a

shorter box chain, the one

worked out

as follows

is

a good one.

174

WEAVING
Start the chains with the riser in the multiplier chain on the

top, so that the front

end of the shield

is

clear

from the teeth of

it

the box

cham
if

ratchet.
first

This allows the pawl to turn the box

will cause
is

cham, and

the

bar carries a multiplying riser

the front end of the shield to clear the multiplier ratchet, which

WEAVING
riser

175

on the multiplier which again starts the box chain. If both chams were so set that a sinker came at the top of each, neither one would be turned and only one color of filling would be woven
into the cloth.

Worn
motion.

vibrator gear studs and

worn studs

in the protection

lever are the most frequent causes of trouble in this form of box

When
is

the latter becomes

worn

or the spring

is

too weak,
If the

the lever slips and the boxes are not lifted high enough.

gear stud

worn there

is

a tendency for the gear to become

sprung or the
in the gear

The first two or three teeth first tooth to break. and segment become worn and allow them to spring
Incorrect timing of the lock-knife will cause skips,

out of mesh.

and incorrect tuning of the chain barrel will cause broken risers and bent chams. Care must be taken in tuning the boxes and Sometimes when a fittmg the swells, as previously explained. loom bangs off with the shuttle partly in the shed, a smash results,
due to the boxes being set early so that the protection finger is in contact with the edge of the swell, preventing the protection from
working.

protection finger,

worn

so that the flat part rests

against the other binder, will occasionally cause a smash in a

sunilar

way.

If

there

is

insufficient

movement given

to

the

dagger, owing to faulty fixing of the binder by bending out the

end instead

of shaping

it

properly, smashes often occur,

addition the inner part of the

against the box frame.

bmder will cut the

filling

and in by pressing

To Prevent
and
if

Filling

one shuttle

from Drawing, first examine the filling, contains soft spun filling it should be placed in
almost impossible to prevent the
is

the top box, as

it is

filling

from
it

drawmg

if

the soft filling

between the
If the shuttles

others, because

causes them
chauo-ed, or

to cling together.
if

cannot readily be

bend a piece of wire into a bow and fix it in the lay sole near the box entrance, with about one and one-half inches extending above the race-plate. Should this not answer the purpose, fix a narrow band of leather to the boxes near the entrance, extending from bottom to top. Avoid as far as possible jumpuig the boxes from first to fourth or from
the filling
is

all

alike,

fourth to
o-reater

first,

especially the latter, as the tendency to

rise.

rebound

is

on the descent than on 'the

Many

fixers tighten

up

176

WEAVING
sprmg
is

the protection spring on the box rod, believing that the

only for that purpose, which of course

pose
is

is

not the case.

if

Its pur-

to protect the

motion from becoming broken

if

the shuttle

sticks in the boxes or

they are held fast by some other cause,

is,

and the tighter the sprmg

the less protection will be given.

Jumpmg

of the boxes

is

usually clue to mcorrect timing of the

eccentric gears.

They

will sometimes
fuiish,

run well when the slow

speed comes on at the

other times
it is

thus easing off the boxes, while at

necessary to set them with the fast speed, just

is

finishing so as to get the boxes started before the fast speed on,

put

otherwise
lifting
lift

the

chain

travels

more quickly than the boxes.

the boxes, the

Heavy
heavy

of the harnesses often influences

causing extra vibration to the upper motion.

CROMPTON QINQHAn LOOM, 4x1 BOXES.

The Upper Box Motion. Similarly to the Knowles Gingham Loom, the box motion of the Crompton Gmgham Loom is composed of an upper and a lower motion. The upper motion consists of box chain, chain barrel and multiplier, together with the necessary drivmg pawls and ratchets as illustrated in Fig. 114. The Multiplier. A disc multiplier is used on this motion, The disc, B, which has multiplier run without a chain. {. e., a two indentations, C, in its circumference, carries a ratchet. A, of a Pressing against the disc is a small variable number of teeth. finger, actmg in combination with a slide, D, on the same stud
which extends under a pin fixed in the driving pawl, H. When the finger is held on the circumference of the disc the driving pawl
is

held out of contact with the

filling

chain ratchet, but

when

the

allowmg the pawl, H, to engage with the ratchet and turn the filling cham. There is also a lever, E, pivoted on the same stud which carries the disc, one end of which extends over the cham at F, and the other extends du-ectly under the end of the pawl, G, which When a nmltiplymg riser comes operates the multiplier ratchet. up on the box chain it raises the lower end of the lever, E, and consequently lowers the upper end, allowmg the pawl, G, to engage with the ratchet. A, thus turning the disc until the finger agam
finger enters the indentation the slide drops away,

enters an indentation.

Then

the slide, D, drops, allowing the

WEAVING
-

177

pawl, H, to engage with the fiUmg chain ratchet which continues

to turn until another multiplying riser

comes up on the chain.

To change
number
picks,

the value of the multiplier a ratchet of a different

of teeth is substituted. Each tooth has the value of two but owing to the disc having two indentations the value of
is

the multiplier

half the

number of

teeth in the ratchet.

The value

of a multiplier

may

readily be doubled

by attaching

a piece of tin

to the disc so as to cover

up one become double the whole number

and has no links
fixing.

indentation,
of teeth.
it is

when its value will The disc multiplier is

an exceptionally good meclianism as

simple, positive in action,

to get out of order, thereby requiring very little

The upper box motion

is

operated through a double cam. A,

Pig. 114.

Upper Box Motion.

(Fig. 116) fixed on the pick

ates,

cam

shaft,

one part of which actu-

through the connections, the oscillating lever on which are

mounted the drivmg pawls.

driving rod from working

disconnector, which prevents the

when

the filling breaks,

is

actuated by

the smaller part of the cam, which also assists in drawing back the motion after a disconnection has taken place. The dwell of

the laro-er part of the

cam

is

one-half a revolution of the pick

cam

178

WEAVING
equal to a full revolution of the crank shaft, and the smaller
one-half the dwell of the larger.

shaft,

cam has
elbow
rail of

There are two separate

is

levers,

C and

D, between which the cams revolve, both

attached to the cross
catch slide, L,

being pivoted on the same stud, E, which

the loom.

is

attached to the upper end

of the lower

elbow

lever,

D, at F, and the driving rod, G, which

is

drives the upper box motion,

attached at the other end.

The

Fig 115.

Crompton Gingham Loom.

upper elbow lever, C, is actuated by the large cam, and carries, fixed on a stud, H, at the elbow, a spring clamp which also grips a stud fixed in the upper part of the lower lever, D, at J. As the
lever, raises

cams revolve, the large one coming in contact with the upper elbow it, and by the combined action of the sprmg clamp and the spring, K, the lower elbow lever is also actuated. A slotted bar, M, is supported by a bracket fixed to the loom side, and the slide, L, works in the slot of this bar when the motion is

WEAVING
ill

179

operation.
lifts

and

a finger

Wlien the filling breaics, the fork-slide draws back which is also in contact with the slotted bar, M,
is

thus raising the slotted bar so that as the slide

driven forward

the catch comes in contact with the bottom result that further forward movement is prevented, and the stud

of the slot, with the

on the
clamp.

lever,

D, at

J, is

forced out of connection with the spring

This stud

being

out

of

connection,

the

connecting

rod cannot

be lifted sufficiently

high to cause the pawl to turn the

Fig. 116.

Disconnecting Device.

operation of the box ratchet gear on the filling chain barrel, and all the motion ceases. While the elbow levers are disconnected, the upper elbow tension spring, K, is extended, and it will draw this is called contract to allowed when lever back into position
;

the grasshopper motion.

in

The Lower Box Motion. This motion, which is illustrated deriving its name Fig. 117, is known as the pin gear motion,

space gear, B, from the manner of driving the large segment or

180

WEAVING
the
clog, is

pick

The pin gear, also termed cam shaft, and as the

attached to the end of the

shaft revolves, the pin, A, enters one of

the recesses in the segment gear, B, advancing the gear one space
for each revolution.

There are ten spaces on the inside separated

by recesses, and on the outside the gear is divided into ten segments of seven teeth each, with blank spaces between, so an

Fig. 117.

Lower Box Motion.

advancement of one space has the value of seven teeth. The segment gear revolves on a stud fixed to the frame, about 3| inches forward of the pick cam shaft. At the top and side of the segment gear, small shafts, C C, are placed, carrymg at one end .cams, Avhich operate the box lever. The cam on top lifts one box, and the side cam lifts two. A small segment gear, E,
having two spaces, separating as
is

many segments
side.

of six teeth each,

slide, F,

also fitted

on each
as to

shaft, together

with a double fork or

which has a projection, G, on each

of such
foriji
fill

the spaces in

These projections are the small segment gear, and

WEAVING
act the part of a broad tooth,

181

meshing with the spaces

in the kirge

segment

gear.
as the other,

One side of the shde is twice as long quently when one projection is filling a
other
is

and conse-

space on the gear, the

raiser,

out of connection; the short end being the starter or and the long end the returner. Each slide is operated by a small elboAv lever, H, which is connected by the connecting rod, J,

Fig. 118.

Cromptoii Gingham Loom.

to one of the small levers in the

risers

upper motion under which the

portion of the projection,

m the chain pass.

is

The

flat

when

teeth of the large in the small segment gear, ahuost touches the when the small gear, so that the projection catches,

segment

segment gear

segment gears are required with this motion, and

turned, and the teeth of both large and small brought into mesh. There is but one box lever
this is

shown

at K, with the spring

The lower end clamp, L, gripping a stud fixed to its lifting rod, N. box of the of the clamp is attached to the bottom
outer end.

182

WEAVING
fiiiger

small

called the check fiiiger,

is

provided to hold each

cam

in place, being held in contact with the small studs

by means

of a spiral spring.

The normal

position of the motion

is

with the short ends of

riser lifts the con-

both slides nearest the larger gear, and when a

necting rod, the small elbow lever presses in the slide until the

Fig. 119.

Crompton Gingham Loom.

up the blank space on the gear. Then as the segment gear is advanced by the pin gear, the teeth engage with those of the small segment gear, turning it half around, and consequently
projection
fills

the

cam

lifting

end of the shaft will be given a half turn, thus Actuating the top cam lifts one box, and the the boxes.
at the

bottom cam hfts two, or both together lift three. The small gear being turned one-half revolution, the long side of the slide is now next the segment gear. To cause the box to change back agam a

WEAVING
sinker
is

18S

brought up under the top

lever, allowing the

connecting

rod to fall, thus drawmg the projection on the long slide into place, and completing the revolution of small gear, when the boxes
will return to their

normal position.

The spring clamp,

L, serves

the purpose of a protection device to prevent breakage of bonces or case of a shuttle or picker binding in the boxes. When shuttles

the boxes catch, the stud on the box lever

tion,

is

forced out of conneclifting

and

slides

up the crank, thus preventmg the

rod from

bemg

raised.

Fig. 120.

Crompton Gingham Loom.

Timing and Fixing

of the

Motion.

To

time the motion set

crank is the pin gear with the pin on the bottom center when the the box from picked bemg shuttles the and center on the back crank is on the the when center top the on pm or with the ide
;

back center with the shuttle being picked from the single box.

184

WEAVING
this

When

box motion

is

fitted to

some other make

is

of loom, the

stnd wliich supports the large segment gear

center of the pick

often below the

cam

shaft,

m which case

the

timmg must be

changed

to suit requirements.

Set the pin on the top center with

the crank shaft on the top center and the shuttle at the box end.

Set the head motion driving cams with the small

cam on

the

bottom

center,

when

the crank shaft

is
is

just behind the

bottom

center comhig forward, and the shuttle

in the single box.

As

the smgle box lever used with this motion must necessarily supply both single and compound leverage two fulcrums are required, the

upper cam serving as one, and the stud upon which the inner end This being the of the box lever is pivoted, acting as tlie other.
case, it
is

impossible to change the position of the stud at either

end of the lever, without affecting the leverage at the otlier end. For example, suppose the first box is set level with the race-plate, but o]i raising the second box, it is found to be too low. Moving

out the stud, M, would obviate

this,

but

it is

probable that the

lift

would first box would be too low when returned to normal position. Under, such conditions, the only satisfactory method of setting this motion is to work m between the two points of leverage. Starting first with the studs, jM and R, near the centers of their respective slots, inclined to the outer end, move out S and its connection with

be excessive for the third box, and not only that, but the

ahnost to the limit, and

let it

remain in

this position,

because the

slightest cliange at this point

of the boxes.

makes

a great difference in the lift

INIoving out stud, S, causes the boxes to be lower

when

normal, but to raise higlier

when turning
effect,

the bottom cam.

iMoving in stud, R, has a similar

while setting hi stud,

M,

closer causes the boxes to be higher in their

normal position and

lower when raised.

In connection with some box motions, the boxes are found toThis be higher or lower, according to the position of the lay. occurs to the greatest extent where a box motion is fitted to a
different

make

of loom, but will ne^'er oceui-

if.

tlie lifting
la}'.

rod and
the

connections are set to inove in the same arc as the

When

boxes do change position,

the best

grt-at care

must be used
trifle

in setting

them;

method being

to

have the boxes a

high when the

WEAVING
crank
is

185

on the top center, as this allows for a slight drop as the lay swings back.

The

greatest cause of trouble on this motion

is

the loosening

segment gear, and this will seldom occur if due care is used in fitting the gear on the shaft, and in fixing the motion afterwards. Trouble of this sort is met with most frequently on the old type of motion, which is fitted with a check cam to prevent the motion from turning too far. It is the jarring of the cam against
of tlie small

the check finger which

is the objectionable feature, as the sudden check must sooner or later wear the check cam and loosen both the

box cam and the gear. This motion is not hard and once thoroughly fixed it
months.
tion
If the small gear

to fix

will

if thought is devoted to it, remain in good condition for

in replacing the
is

worn

pin, for

should become loose, care must be used with a small shaft sprung, the condi-

worse than

witli a loose gear,

due to the binding in the

bearing attaclied by a

bearings,

which

is difficult

to remedy.

The small

shaft, C, is a pivot or swivel

pin to the framework of the motion, a spring bolt keeping the

bearing in place during the ordinary running of the motion.

When

anythmg becomes

between the two gears, or the teeth of the small segment do not mesh with the teeth of the large segment, the
fast

spring bolt allows the bearing to be pressed out of position, thereby

separating the two gears and preventing breakage.

Occasionally

the spring bolt becomes loose, allowing the small gear to

of

work out

mesh

^vitli

the large gear, and in this

way

causing a mispick

or skipping of the boxes.

Sometimes under these conditions the

small gear skips one tooth, only meshing with the second tooth
of the large gear.

Worn

projections

on the fork-slides

also

cause
first

skipping,

because mstead of the projection engaging with the

the space gear, the slide springs out.

tooth of

Both

slides are alike,

but as

they work in opposite directions they l)ecome worn on opposite

and therefore may be mterchanged when worn, giving results as good as new ones. A Avasher is placed at the end of the single cam to prevent the box lever from slipping, and this Avasher becoming loose Avill sometimes bind on the shaft and thus cause skipping. If it
sides,

186

WEAVING

becomes very troublesome remove it, and nothing serious will occur if the motion is set in correct alignment.
Incorrect timing of the chain
barrel,

bent chain bars, or

slide

broken

risers, all

have the

effect of
is

preventmg the fork

the result.

from

moving

into place,

and skipping

Cham

links riding

on the cham barrel also cause skipping.

will prevent the slide to be lowered.

Insufficient lubrication

of the shaft, C, the chain lever studs, or the finger rod bearing,

from returning to place when the boxes are

small coil spring placed around the bearing of

the finger rod in contact with the finger will help to

slide.

draw
is

the

The hook

to

which the check finger spring

attached,

works loose occasionally, and allows the small gear to turn a trifle This may cause one of several effects, such as the boxes too far. lifting too high or dropping too low, the picker to become fast in
the boxes, or the teeth of the small gear will not
of the large gear.

mesh with those

slides tends to

Binding of the boxes in the

injure
to

the motion owing to the mcreased

which the gears are subjected.

The

stud,

amount of pressure M, soon wears out if

not sufficiently oiled, necessitating constant fixing of the boxes, as

the stud becoming
should.
tion.

worn allows the boxes

to drop lower than they

It is

seldom that the pin in the pin gear requires atten-

If the large

segment gear shows a tendency to travel too

it,

far after the pin gear has left

the probable cause

is

worn

supporting stud.

This form of box motion

pactly built, and
is

is

one of the best and most com-

adaptable to either slow or fast speed.

The

parts are substantial,

fully fixed,
it

and

if

the motion

is

kept well oiled and care-

will probably require fewer repairs than

any other

box motion.

TEMPLES.
Temples
are for the purpose of keeping the cloth stretched as

near as possible to the reed width during the weaving process.

As much

care sh ^uld

be used

in setting the temples as

is

is

used

setting the pick-motion, because unless the cloth

kept approxiAviil

mately to the width of the warp in the reed the edges

not

weave
little

as they should.

very slight twist on the temple or a

is

too

much

distance from the fell of the cloth

often the

WEAVING

187

cause of great loss of time. Temples are made for almost every kind of cloth woven, and the kind of cloth to be woven should always be considered when purchasing temples.

Temples
temples

may

be divided into two distinct types, burr or

temples, each of these types

roller

and ring

being again sub-

-"b^"-^

J
Fig. 121.

Burr.

-V^^-'V^^-V-^r-^i-v-5?-v-^

Fig. 122.

Burr.

divided mto several varieties.

The

burrs are

made

of brass, steel

most common, and they are fitted with teeth or pins, set spirally around the roller, varying in number and height of setting. Singly the burrs are from 11 inches to 2^ inches long, but often two or three of the smaller ones are used together, and they vary m diameter from 1 inch to ii inch, some
latter being the

and wood, the

of

them being

cylindrical

and others tapered.

Figs. 121,
cloth,

122 and

123 show three different burrs to be used for fine to moderately heavy cotton or silk cloth.
left-hand temple fitted to the. breast beam.

ranging from

Fig.

124 shows a

It is a spring temj^le

and one of the best possible for general work. A hinge temple is shown at Fig. 125. The burrs and pods or trouglis in which they work are similar to those in Fig. 124, the difference bemg hi the Sprmg temples are probably the position hi which they are fixed.

188

WEAVING
Figs. 126, 127,

best because of the greater ease of adjustment.

128 and 129 show four different varieties of inclined ring temples. Fig. 12(3 is a combined right-hand temple. Fig. 127 shows roll with rings attached. This temple is suited for heavy Avcight

Fie-. 123.

Burr.

Fig. 124.

Left-hand Temple.

cotton goods and light weight worsteds.

Figs.

temples suitable for heavy woolens and worsteds.

are

128 and 129 show King temples

made from two

to fifteen rings, the

number being determined

WEAVING

189

by the Aveight of the fabric to be woven. The horizontal ring temple, which is illustrated at Fig. 130, is used exclusively for fabrics which must be gripped only on the selvedo-e.

Fig. 125.

Hinge Temple.

Fig. 126.

Combined Right-hand Temple.

As

previously stated, temples are to maintain the

fell of

the

cloth at the same width as the

warp

in the reed,

and

in doing this

temple marks often

pins

result,

i.

e.,

holes are

made

in the cloth

by the

the temple.

Every precaution

sliould be taken

to avoid

190

WEAVING
and
it is fine

such, particularly on fine goods,

likely to

cloth

which

is

most

become

so.

injured.

Sometimes the

finest burrs will

make

temple marks, in which case tapered burrs should be used, and the
pins covered with tissue paper or very
points

thm

cloth until only the

show through.

Filling

is

sometimes wound around the burrs

Fig. 127.

Inclined Ring Temple.

Fig. 128.

Inclined Ring Temple.

same purpose, but paper or thin cloth is preferable. Usmg which are too coarse is often the cause of temple marks on burrs fine goods, and finer burrs must be used to remedy any such fault. Blunted or bent pins and incorrect setting are also frequent causes
for the

of temple marks.

The

face of the temple should be set parallel to

the

fell

of the cloth at a distance of

from J^ inch to i inch accord-

ing to circumstances.

small amount of action to the temple

always has a beneficial effect, especially when it is set close to the fell of the cloth, because it reduces the stram on the selvedge

WEAVING
threads,

191

when
that

the lay beats up.

By

attaching to the lay sole a

piece of
position

leather
it

m
will

such a
strike

against the heel of the temple

when
is

the lay

swmgs

forward,

a sufificient

amount

of motion

given for ordmary require-

ments.
It is

common
and

practice on

medium
temples

light

weight

goods to use burrs for both

are set in the

which the spikes same direction,

the idea being that as long as

the spiral

turns toward the

outer end of the burr they

will

work
but

as they should.

On

some grades of cloth

true,
it

this holds

may
the

easily be seen

that

while

pins

point

toward the outer end and tend

to pull the cloth that

way, yet

the spiral setting of the pins

in
i.

both temples
e.,

is

the same,

the spiral setting runs

right,

toward the
set in this ter

and a burr
act bet-

way would

in

a right hand temple

with the cloth runnmg over

it,

because every turn of the

spiral

would give the pins a

grip.

closer

With such

burr in the left-hand temple

the cloth
of
is

held by the incline

alone,

the pins

and the
tends
to
Fig. 129.
in,

method

of settmg

allow the selvedge to run

rather than to keep
it

Temple.

stretched out

When

weaving heavy goods

192

WEAVING
tendency of one selvedge to draw
sides,
in, caused by becomes more

this objectionable

using temples of the same setting for both

strongly apparent, and that

selvedge becoming slack

does not

weave

as

it

should.

Right and left-hand burrs are now obtainable, and they should
be used
if

the best results are desired.

When

fitting burrs the

i. e.,

spnal settiug of the pins must turn toward the right,

for the left-hand temple,

like a

right-hand screw, for the right-hand temple, and toward the left
if

the cloth

is

to be kept at width, for

otherwise the cloth will be drawn m.

Fig. 130.

Horizontal Ring Temple.

The roll m the rmg temple may be raised or lowered to change amount of grip by which it holds the clotli. The higher it is, the firmer grip it has on the cloth, and the lower it is, the weaker grip This method of adjustment allows the temple to be accomit has. modated to various weights of cloth. One of the best rmg temples mtended to permit of ready adjustment to various grades of goods, is illustrated in Fig. 131. The washer. A, is made with an eccentric ring bearing, upon which the pin ring is placed, and this washer is turned on the stud, C, so as to increase or diminish the length of the pin extendmg above tlie washer, tlius regulating the contact of the puis with the cloth. The stud, C, is shown carrying the base against which the washers and rings are placed, there being also a solid piece burr tapered on the inner end of the stud. The Hardaker temple is intended to be used on close shed looms, especially as the teinplc works with the cloth, thereby prethe
_

WEAVING
venting injury to the
is

193

clotli

by the temple.

On

heavy goods there

is

always considerable movement to the cloth when the lay

it

beat-

ing up, and as

sidearl)le rise

leaves the fell of the cloth.

fall

There

is

also a cpn-

and

to the clotli, the

movement being

greatest

with the heaviest shed.

These

temples allow for that

movement,

I
Fig. 131.

i[

Ring Temple.

and should be set toward the race.

close to the fell of the cloth, mclined slightly

CENTER STOP MOTION.

This type of fillmg stop motion
is

usually fitted to woolen and

worsted looms, and

colors are being

is

of especial value

when smgle picks

is

of certain

woven mto

the cloth, because the loom will be

if

stopped on the broken pick

the motion

in

good

order.

194

WEAVING
The motion
is

generally fitted to the center of the lay, but on

carpet looms two

lay sole.
It

feeler

motions are

fitted

one near each end of the

if

must be kept

the best condition by accurate fixing

good

results are to be obtained.

A
is

detail

drawing of the motion

used on the Knowles Broad

Loom

shown

at Fig. 132.

The
a

feeler

wires, A, are attached to the base or hub which crank, B, this being connected through the

carries

small

adjusting rod,

C,

to

the dagger lever,

the dagger being attached to the end

it.

of this at right angles to

G
it

is

a bracket fixed to the

breast

beam, having mounted upon

lever,

the inclined slide, F, the receiving

L, and the
slide finger,

H, the protection

slide,

M.

The

knock-off finger, J, is attached to the rod,

the breast

K, which extending under

beam

is

in contact with the shipper handle.

flat steel

spring, N, is also attached to K, for the purpose of holding

in

place

when the loom As represented

is

stopped.

in Fig.

132 the loom

is

stopped with the lay

just forward of the

back center, the feeler wires being raised to

started.

allow the shuttle to pass under and lay the filling under the wires

when

the loom

is

When

the shipper handle

is

drawn

forward to start the loom, the knock-off finger is raised up under the projection, H', on the receiver, H, thus causing the upper end to

extend above the bracket, G, the lower end being pivoted at H".

As

the lay

swmgs

forward, the dagger, E, slides

down
no

the incline

of F, allowing the feelers to drop,

and

if

there

is

filling

under

them they drop

receiver,

into a recess cut in the lay sole.

This allows the

dagger to drop far enough to strike against the upper end of the H, and as the lay continues to swing forward, the receiver

being pressed

down

carries

with

it

the knock-off finger, thus,

If there is a strand

through the connections, stopping the loom.

of

fiUmg under the

feelers,

they are held up so that the dagger

pick after each start-

cannot strike against the receiver, and the loom contmues to run.

The
up.

protection slide, L, acts only on the

first

Immediately as the loom

finger,

stops, the flat spring,

N, causes the

M,

to force the slide sufficiently high to protect the receiver

from the dagger.

When

the power

is

applied by drawing forward

the shipper handle, the spring, N,

is

drawn away from the

fuiger,

releasing the pressure on the slide, but the latter remains in place

WEAVING
until the dagger strikes tlie

195

hook

at L'

and

forces the slide out of

the way, leaving the receiver in position to act.

slide is necessary for

This protection
is

the reason that often after the loom

drawn forward and then pushed back, when the feelers pass under the filling, and if no protection slide were provided the dagger would strike the receiver thus stoppmg the
stopped, the lay
is

loom.

When

no protection

slide is fitted, it is necessary to place

the filling under the feeler wires in order to prevent the dagger

from striking the

receiver, thus occasioning a loss of time.

Fig. 132.

Knowles Broad Loom Motion.

Timing the Motion.

The

inclined slide, F,

is

adjustable to

control the action and position of the feeler wires.

By

lowering

the front end and raising the back, the feelers are caused to rise more quickly. On looms fitted with two sets of feelers the slide must be set to raise the feelers as quickly as possible, otherwise If this happens they are the shuttle may strike and bend them. loom will not be stopped the and threads, warp the by held up the slide, Adjust F, and adjusting broken. is filling even if the
rod, C, so that the feelers will be raised almost the height of the shed when the crank shaft is between the top and back centers

and the dagger

is

almost at the top of the

slide.

Set the feelers

196

WEAVING
mch
to i

ill

the base so that |

mch
;

will remain

on the

filling

when

and yet they should pass clear of any possibility of the feeler wires catching in case of the yarn dropping to the bottom of the reed. With the lay drawn forward so that the crank is on the bottom center, the dagger should be at the bottom This range is of the slide at ^ inch to ^ inch from the receiver. For the Knowles Loom the given to cover a variety of looms. distance is generally i inch, but on the Crompton Loom the dagger should be in contact with the receiver when the crank shaft is on the bottom center, and occasional!}^ with some looms the dagger is
the dagger passes the receiver
the rib of the reed

when

in the lay sole, to prevent

set

m contact with the receiver when

the
is

tlie

crank shaft

is

just behind

the bottom center.

On

Knowles Narrow Loom

used.

a different

form of center stop

is
;

motion
ing rod

As

illustrated in Fig. 132, the motion

:

composed
G, adjustrod upon
;

of the following pieces

;

A, the
;

feelers
;

B, feeler

cam
;

C, connect;

D, dagger lever
;

E, dagger

F, adjusting rod
;

ing point

G', bracket

H, receiver
shield,

I,

lock finger
;

J,

which

lock finger
;

and

K, are placed

L, shield finger
is

M,

fuiger rod

N, locking

lever.

The

adjusting rod, F,

pivoted on
is fitted

an adjustable stud, G, attached to the bracket, G', which

to the cross-brace of the

loom and extending upward through the bracket on the lay sole, the end comes in contact with the dagger It is so adjusted as to push up against the dagger lever, lever.
thus raising the feelers as the lay swings back.

As the

lay swings

forward the rod

the dagger

is

drawn down, allowing the

no
filling

lever to drop and

v/ith it .the feelers, so that if there is

is

under the

feelers,

allowed to strike the receiver, H, thus stopping the

lever,

loom.

The locking
is

N,

is

attached to the brake-rod upon

in contact

which

also fixed a projection

coming

with the shipper

handle.

When
is

the dagger point strikes the receiver, the lock-finger,

I,

raised up, thus releasing the lock lever,

jection
is is

and allowmg the proon the brake-rod to force off the shipper handle. If there a pick of fillmg under the feelers when they descend, the dagger held out of contact with the receiver, and the loom continues to

run.

The

shield,

K,

is

controlled

by the

finger, L,

and

rod,

M,

the

outer end of the rod being in contact, with the shipper handle.

WEAVING
Wlien the loom
is

19^

preventstopped the shield covers, the receiver, to be loom the allowing it, thereby hm- the dagger from striking mto drawn is handle shipper turned over by hand, but when the to free receiver shield and leaves the place, the finger forces up the one is motion This form of stop be acted upon by the dagger. because, immediately as the action in of the most instantaneous power is removed and the brake dagger strikes the receiver, the
^^^'

the

highest point feelers are raised to the

the adjusting rod is between the back and bottonr perpendicular, the crank shaft being the adjustmg rod To lessen the lift of the feelers move centers. adjust by changor of the bracket, G', pivot farther back in the slot Tire former the lower end of the rod. ing the screw connection on

dagger point in contact with 'in'setting this motion have the The is on the bottom center. receiver when the crank shaft

when

method
it

is

the better.

When

weaving tender

filling if
it

back end of the dagger ever at wei-ht may be attached^to the not descend so low Or set the feelers so that they will point D' motion to be also the timing of the Into the feeler slot, changing little the feelers leave the fi mg a slightly early, i. e., to have of piece a Occasionally be the case. sooner than ordhiarily would feelers the between feeler slot as to come wire is so inserted in the or kinky. filling from becoming broken the and in this way prevent later. fixing pomts will be described
General

cause as to break it often, or

the feelers rest so heavily on to kink in the cloth, a smal

Warps. Under this heading some will be which come up in running a loom of the minor problems every fixed and A loom ought to be cleaned, oiled, considered.

Odd Points Pertaining

to

much and if a fixer could only realize how time a warp is run out, him, he attention at this time would save work a small amount of It is when a loom is regular practice. would soon make it a might cause endwhich cair be seen, empty that some little thing a screw head slightly the warp is in. How often less trouble when shuttle a the warp yarn or chips the above the race-plate cuts the broken behind the feeler-slot, cuttmg or the race-plate is little which it in worn grooves sometimes a flat whip-roll has

yarn;'

and

Lfe

the yarn,

when

tilting

it

slightly will

remedy the

fault.

198

WEAVING
at the

box entrance often causes dirty filling, and sometimes causes the shuttle to run crooked, thus making the warp weave badly. Unless the yarn is very poor, a warp seldom weaves badly in a cam loom except hi case of the loom bemg out of order, for which the remedy is given elsewhere. Sufficient attention is not given to the stretch of the yarn from the A warp which otherwise would not whip-roll to the harnesses. run, can often be run out by increasing the distance between the
Accumulation of grease

and the harnesses. Additional lease rods will often even warp even though a striped cloth is being woven warp. Double cloths will usually weave better if a from the same lease rod is inserted between the two warps, especially if one cloth is a more open weave than the other, as the take-up differs under
whip-roll

up

the yarn in a

such conditions, and the rod should be inserted so that the slack

warp

is

underneath.
use of a lease rod
is

The
better

also a

remedy

by curly warp or filling yarn. by the use of an extra lease rod, a wire rod being preferable. A soft warp can be made to run better by laying across the warp a long cloth bag filled with French chalk, or by laying a' piece of wax on the warp. The latter remedy is not to be recommended for all cases, however, as any wax retained on the yarn proves
cloth caused

rough looking Dimities often weave

for

detrimental to further processes such as dyeing,

sized

etc.

stiffly

warp may
rise

also

run better by above treatment, but a damp

cloth laid over

it,

or a pail of hot water placed

size, will

under

it

so that the

steam will
large

and soften the

is

give

much

better results.

Staggering the harnesses

the best possible treatment where a

number

of harnesses or heavily sleyed

warps are being used.

by adjusting the

plaid back can be

woven much more

if

easily

backing harnesses a
It

trifle

lower than the others.

there are six or eight ends in

can readily be seen that

all

one dent, with the harnesses

nesses on which they are

level,

and four or
if

five of the har-

drawn

are lifted at one time, those

threads will be crowded in the dent, but

the harnesses are

a plain

staggered the threads will be separated.

stripe

If

when weavmg

there

is

a tendency for the threads to cling together, a

is

possible

remedy

to use a friction let-off in conjunction Avith an

oscillating Avhip-roll, fixing the whip-roll so that the yarn is tight

on

WEAVING

199

the center of movement of the harnesses. This prevents the cloth from becommg unduly slack at tmies, which is the most common cause of threads clinging together. When weaving fine or very
thin cloths, there
is

often

much

trouble with the filling in the

,

making ragged lookhig cloth. A p^iece of wire ciriven in the top edge of the breast beam will often overcome this fault, but better yet is a roller mounted near the top of the breast beam over which the cloth may pass. If the fixer will use care in tying in warps, a great amount of yarn may be saved in a year. Tying in warps carelessly is a slovenly practice, and it takes longer to get them started, as well as causing an extra amount of work for the weaver because of some thi'eads, which are not drawn tight enough, being broken out on starting up. First tie in bunches sufficiently large to go under the temple on each side, and then complete the warp by tying in bunches occupying about two inches width in the reed. It will be noticed that the yarn often snarls behind the harnesses, and while it takes some time to draw out the snarls, a bad start-up is the When such a case is met with, draw result if it is neglected. back the warp until the snarls leave the harnesses, and the warp
cloth being dragged at the edges,

may

then be tied in very readily.

The above

points are

all

small things, but they often save

is

hours of labor, and mcrease the production as well, which

material consideration.

a very

CARE OF LOOMS.
Before considering the general fixing of looms,
well to understand the following
repair will cause very little
:

loom that is and never serious faults. Looms give warning of coming danger, and the careful fixer will A fixer who patches a see to it that these warnings are heeded. from serious results his neglect. has A loom often job, very
trouble,

would be kept in good

it

banging

off,

or a shuttle jumping or rattling in the box,

is

is

a sure

sign that something

is

giving

way

the

manner

in

which a shuttle
the seat of the

weaving, indicates, to the careful thinking

fixer,
is

trouble,

and he knows

full well if the

fly

warning

unheeded, that
If there are

probably a shuttle will

out and hurt some one.

any

of the parts that control the boxes wearing, the shuttle will

200

WEAVING
it,

almost invariably show

top or bottom.

Ijecause

it

will be

wearing either at the

reed over or miderfaced, or bent dents, will

shuttle
;

show themselves on the

worn, or
it

the back of the shuttle will be

will be

wavy

instead of having a smooth back.

The term
shuttles, has

shuttle flying out, for

it

jumping shuttles and

flying

been used, because

is

a generally accepted term,

but there
that

is

a difference between the two.

A jumping shuttle is one

it

may

skip over the cloth and go in the other box, or

floor,

might

slip

over the end of the loom to the

feet

or possibly drop

from the loom, or the shuttle

if

may jump up from

if

the lay.

two or three Such

shuttles rarely,

ever, hurt

any one, but they are possible indicanot attended to as soon as

tions of a serious

defect which,

possible, will result in the shuttle flying a

good many

feet

from

the

loom.

By

noting distinctly where

it

the

shuttle has fallen,

and the distance

has gone,

it

is

possible to locate the cause.

if it if

The

shuttle will not travel in the

its

same direction
it

meets any
it

obstruction in

passage across the lay, as

will

has shot

clean from the box.

will

worn

picker, picker-stick or loose spindle

throw a shuttle more clearly than any other cause, and these are the two causes that throw the shuttle with the full force of the
picking motion
often adds force to the shuttles.

and by a picker sprmging the picker spmdle A shuttle that jumps through striking the feeler wires has met a sudden check, and it is impossible for such a shuttle to fly as fal", or in near the same direction as when thrown as before stated. When the boxes are below the race-plate, the shuttle must force itself out of the box, and has an upward tendency. Follow;

ing out this line of reasoning, the effect can be clearly traced to
the cause, and will save

many hours

of labor.

GENERAL LOOM
'

FIXING.
it is

In these chapters on general loom fixing

the purpose to

give the causes of and remedies for the various faults

met with

in

the majority of looms, whether with cone or bat-wing pick motions,

single or multiple boxes.

chapter, but they will in

There may be odd cases missed in one most cases be found in another; for
fly

example, a loose picker will often cause a shuttle to

out and

it

WEAVING
will also cause a
tlie

201

loom to bang off. A loose rocker-shaft will cause off and also cause it to be stopped tlirougli the filling stop motion. Some of tlie points have also been explained in the different chapters descriptive of the various parts and

loom

to

bang

motions.

Many

of the little troubles

common

to

some

fixers

may

be avoided by following the ideas regarding different methods of

fixing

and the -reasons given

for such.

Special attention should

be given to the. binders for they are probably the most frequent
cause of trouble.
useful for

Every

fixer

should have a straight edge, as

it is

many

purposes, particularly for levelling the boxes with

the lay or reed.

The
chapters.

various

points will

l)e

explained in detail in different

action of the loom
receiver,

Banging Off. This term is applied to the when it is stopped by the dagger strikhig the
the shuttle not being in place.

owing

to

Various causes are as follows

Most of the items from 38 to 51 inclusive apply especially to the ball and shoe-pick motion. Bangmg oif is the most common occurrence in the defective running of a loom, and it is due mainly to changes in the atmo
sphere although
1.

many

fixers lose sight of this.

Supposing the room to be

has become warm.

cold,

it

naturally acts on the

loom, particularly the boxes, so that the shuttle does not run as freely
as

when

it

The

best

method

to follow

is

to wipe

the boxes and the shuttle with dry waste

cases the
off

when

in the majority of
it

loom

will

run

all right.

It
it
;

is

possible that

may bang
found that

once again, Imt on starting up

will generally be

the use of a

wrench
is
is it

is

umiecessary

and

in case of such use chang-

ing back again

usually required,

when

the

room becomes warm.

the binder, the
the boxes

Occasionally

well to apply a drop of

sufficient.

oil to

merest

trifle

being

If the

loom

is

damp wipe

and shuttle thoroughly dry, apply a little oil, as above, to the swell, and start up again. Should it bang off again rub the face of the It may be noticed that when shuttle with some fine sandpaper. the box and shuttle are damp the front of the shuttle becomes Above black from the dampness and friction with the swell. points apply only when nothing is broken or worn out, and if it is found necessary afterwards, to make some alterations no loss

202

WEAVING

Fig. 133.

Worn

Parts of

Loom Causing

Shuttle to

Bang

Off.

WEAVING
will

203

have been incurred.

On
as

the contrary,

it is

a most beneficial

lesson to learn to fix a

loom

much

as possible without a wrench,

because

many

defects

may

be remedied in this

way and with

great saving in supplies.

2.

"A loom banging off

flat

is

being worn

on one

side.

This

sometimes caused by the cone may be very slight, but very

little is sufficient

to have this effect.

half an hour, or longer, but as soon as the point of the

in contact

The loom may run well for cam comes

with the flat place on the cone a soft pick is the result, and the shuttle not being driven far enough into the box the loom bangs off on the next pick.
3.

A
is

partially

broken lug-strap has the same

effect,

because

the shuttle
strap,
it is

not driven with sufficient force.

In repairing the lug-

advisable to connect the

new

strap in the

same position

as the old.
4.

The

picking-stand becoming worn, particularly the iron

it,

projection on
it,

which

fits

into tlie slot of the shoe

causes the stick to

result
is

jump because
loom bangs

of the shoe catching

off or the shuttle is

and guides on it,

thrown

and the
out.
5.

either the

A
tlie

worn plug

in the picker-stand twists the picker-stick,

causing

shuttle to be

replaced by a

new

one,

thrown crookedly. This plug is easily and keeping the plug in good condition
of work.

will save a considerable

6.

amount
it,

When

the pick point of the

a

slides off

out of contact with

off.

cam is worn so that the cone weak piclv is caused and consethe shuttle
is

quent banging
7.

If the lug-strap
little

has too long a range

picked across a

late

with the same

result.

Occasionally,

tliough the shuttle

may

be picked on time, the sweep or power

stick is too short, causing the strap to

become

soft

with a conse-

quent

loss of
8.

power.
cracked picker-stick
is

of course lacking in strength,

and cannot drive the shuttle with sufficient speed to enter the opposite box, and the loom bangs off. 9. Loosening of the shoe-bolt, which attaches the pickerstick to the shoe, causes either a soft or a

hard jarring pick and

tlie

loom bangs

off

on the return.

204

WEAVING
10.

The

shuttle striking too forcibly in the

is

box sometimes
it,

softens the picker so that there

not the firm throw behind

and as it does not fully enter the opposite box the loom bangs off. While many fixers discredit this, they often replace the
picker.
11.
stick

When
off.

the collar, which holds the picker on the pickershuttle

becomes

loose, the

may

either be
is

thrown out or the

loom bang

The reason
it

for this

that the picker sliding on

the stick, reduces the power and keeps the back of the shuttle

down, which, by causing

entering
it,

to press

agamst the top

In

of the shed on

retards the passage through.

many

instances the

by the shuttle rising in the box as it nears the back end, and pushing the picker upwards. This may also occur
collar is loosened

when

the picker-stick

is

too far into the box instead of being at

the back end.

12.

One

of

two
;

"conditions

is

generally
is

responsible

for

rebounding shuttles
too loose.

either the pick

too strong, or the binder

it is

As

a rebounding shuttle often results in a smash,

well to use care in ascertaining the cause.

piece of tube between the extension bolt

By

placing the small

tunity

is

and the swell, an opporgiven to watch closely the operation of the loom, and a
is

strong pick

readily perceived.

the jar by placmg the

Sometimes hand on the lay cap, or

it is if

possible to feel

it is

seen that the

shuttle goes through the shed at the opposite side, clear of the

yarn, the strength of the pick

may

be reduced a

little.

Do

this

by lengthening out the

lug-strap, or

about half an inch, the latter

by raising up the stirrup-strap method being preferable. Another

method
fiat

of ascertaining the strength of the pick is to place the hand on the top of the box, with the little finger just over the edge of the slot in which the picker-stick moves, known as the picker-

race,

thus covering the slot to the extent of almost four fingers.

If the picker presses sufficiently

hard against

it

to

push the hand

away, the stick has too strong a pick and too long a range, which may be remedied by letting out the lug-strap. Occasionally the
pick-shaft drops slightly and allows the back
rest

end

of the cone to

on the cam,

in

which case a hard pick

results.
is

Raising

it

up

again will ease the pick.

the box pressure

When

the pick

found

to be all right,

must be

increased,

and

this

must be done with

WEAVING
allowances for future changes in speed and atmosphere.
slight

205

very

change

is

usually sufficient, and

many

times arranging the

check-spring at the end of the box will obviate the difficulty.

As

fixmg for present conditions generally necessitates altering back again for the next change, the best method is to fix for average
conditions,
13.

and thus save time and work.

early or late pick will cause the

An

loom

to

The

shuttle should

commence

to

move when
is
it

the crank

bang off. is on the

readily be

top center.

When

the picking motion

late, it

may
is

noticed by watching the shuttle as

box.
to

leaves the shed to enter the

for the
if

The shed

closes

upon

it

and the tendency

cause
is

warp
both

become broken.

Test the pick from both sides to see

If so, the probable
is

sides are a little late.

that the driving

gears have slipped.

Sometimes the key

it is

little

narrower than
fit

the key-bed in the shaft, and

or the

only necessary to

new

key,

key may occasionally work

loose, requiring only tightening.

14.

The

late pick is also

caused by slipping of the pick

it is

cams, particularly

the case where

late

on one side only.

For

this the only lasting

remedy

is

to either sink the screw into

the shaft or use a hardened cup-pointed screw which will bite the
shaft.

A common
pick-cams,

occurrence in tightening up set screws, especito twist off the heads.

ally

is

Instead of tightening
it

to this extent, it is better to

shaft,
it

draw up

until

tightens against the

then withdraw a

little,

tightening

up

solid after this,

when
and

will hold with as strong a grip as possible.

15.

When

the shed
is

is

too early

it

closes

on the

shuttle,

when

too late there

not sufficient space for the shuttle to enter,

it

in either case the shuttle being retarded so that

does not fully

enter the box.

This condition

is

easily remedied, particularly so

when

the cams are on an

auxiliary shaft,

when by simply

dis-

engaging the carrier gear the cams can be set to the right time and Set the cams to have the shed full open with the gear replaced.
crank on the top center.
16.

When

the shed

is

too small the shuttle

is

retarded

all

the

way

across with similar results.

With cams

constructed on

and with treadles of proportionate length, this does not often occur but when it does, it will generally be found that the harnesses can be moved up and down for I- inch or |
correct principles,
;

206

WEAVING
owing
to the fact that the harness

inch,

straps

have not been

strap

equally attached.
is

Frequently in remedying this defect the shed

made uneven.
suffice, as

Taking up one hole

they

the

does not

always

may

not be equally spaced, and particular

equal.

attention
last longer

should be given to having them

Harnesses

when

little

play

is

allowed in attachmg, but this

should not be enough to alter materially the size of the shed. loose rocker shaft allows the lay to spring up and 17.

with the throw of the shuttle, which is sometimes thrown out by this means, as well as causing the loom to bang off. It is only necessary to tighten the bearing to remedy this
interfere
defect.

In connection with an adjustable swell, the lock-nut 18. working loose allows the bolt to slip back, causing the swell When the temper leaves the swell, it becomes to become loose. The bolt which retains the loose and the loom bangs off.

bmder in its frame shows the effect very quickly on becoming loose by ripping pieces out of the shuttle.
19.

Picker-sticks

of

poor quality will spring and

stick
is

bend,

causing a soft pick,

and a new
is

the only remedy.

Usmg

cheap picker-sticks

false

econoiny, as good

hickory sticks at
Picker-sticks have

slightly higher cost last

many
five

times longer.

been known to run for

years,

and on high-speeded looms

on the end of the pick-

which ran continuously. 20. On some looms,

collars are fitted

cam

shaft to prevent the shaft

from

slipping,
is

and

if

a collar

loosens, the shaft will

move when

the pick

taking place, allow-

ing the

cam

to leave the cone,

with the result of either a soft or a

hard jarring pick.

21. 22.

Key

of driving gears too narrow.

Covered under
is

13.

Broken

heel-straps

allow the sticks to jump, and as

the stick does not return to place more power

required behind

the shuttle to drive

23.
24.
is

it

to the end of

tlie

box.

A loose or weak
When
as an

spring has the same effect.

the reed

is

not level, with the back of

tlie

box

it

known
to

over-faced reed,

position,

caused

and an under-faced reed run crookedly in either

when when

in

front

of

its

correct

behind.

The

sliuttle is
is

case,

and

more power

WEAVING

207

required to drive a sliuttle crookedly because being turned out of

its

course

it

strikes the front of tlie box.

in setting the reed level with the back of the

few minutes spent box will save many

it

hours of
will last.

fixing, as well as

adding greatly to the time the shuttle

over-faced or under-faced
is

If the reed

is

easily

detected through small pieces being chipped out of the shuttle.

Single wires in the reed becoming bent forward will also cause
the shuttle to run crookedly, and in time the shuttle wears
so that they

them

become sharp and cut the yarn,

This
is

especially the filling,

when the The back

25.

lay beats up.

of the shuttle

one of the causes of stitching.

becomes worn wavy by these dents.

is

tight lug-strap binds the picker-stick, thus causing

the stick to
is

jump when motion

imparted to

it,

and

tlie

shuttle

driven crookedly, with the usual result that

it is

stopped before

fully entering the box. 26.

shed

is

"When the warp is held under too much tension the drawn together, leaving insufhcient space for the shuttle
and the loom bangs
of the
off,

to pass through,

or

it

sometimes causes a

smash.
27.

The bottom

box

at the entrance should be level

with the race-plate.

it

If it is too high, the shuttle strikes against

thrown against the top; while if too low, the shuttle strikes agamst the top of the box and there is too little space for Either fault will cause the loom to bang off by preit to enter. venting the shuttle from entering the box, and will also splinter the shuttles, making them so rough that they will constantly

and

is

break out the warp.

race-plate
it is

When

the boxes

are not

level with the

best to look for the cause, rather than immediately

alter the position of the lifting

rod or chain connections.

Some-

times only one box

lifting

is

out of position,
all

and any
the

alteration of the

rod or chain would affect

If the collar

boxes,

making the
trifle it

trouble worse.

on the

lifting

rod slips a

allows the bottom of the chain-bolt to drop, and the bracket and
the

boxes are lifted too high.

chain pulley-stud becoming

worn

allows the boxes to be too low.

One

or two links of the

lifting chain being;'

worn

will cause one or

others.

two boxes

to be too

low without affecting the

wire

To remedy

this a thin piece of

may

be attached to the under part of the link, thus lifting

208

WEAVING
when
that link passes over the pulley.
:

the boxes slightly higher

Other causes of single boxes being out of position are

the lever

which

lifts

that special box having slipped,

of

and riding on the edge

to the small pulley.

and the chain twisting the pulley or dropping from the large
hinders
the
shuttle

28.

Yarn clinging

in the shed
It

from

passing through freely.

may

be the result of poor sizing, m-

correct timing of the shed, or too small a shed, the remedies for

which are manifest.

29.

In connection Avith fancy looms sometimes a harness

the shuttle
is

drops

when

passing through the shed, in this

off.

way
will

holding the shuttle and causing the loom to bang

be said of this
30.
later.

More

worn face on the friction driving pulley causes the loom to bang off, owing to a slackening of the power, with a
resultant
soft pick.

As

the belt sometimes

lies.

slips

it

is

best to
fol-

determine just where the fault

This

may

be tested as

lows
is

Remove

the shuttle, draw the lay forward until the dagger

almost in the receiver, and then draw on the shipper-handle

If
it

watching the pulley at the same time.

all right,

stops, the friction is

and the

fault

is

with the
of

by cleaning with a piece

belt dressing.

which may be remedied card clothing and applying a little

belt,

greasy friction,

Dry slaked lime is one of the best remedies for a but a worn pulley must be replaced. Occasion-

ally the driving pulley

to give an

becomes just sufficiently loose on the shaft uneven motion on starting up, especially when a
is

heavy pattern
to a

being woven, or one having changes from a light

heavy
31.

lift.

This looseness

may

be hardly perceptible, and

yet be sufficient to cause

If the picker is

much
worn

trouble.
it

imparts an uneven motion to the

if

shuttle,

and

also a soft pick, especially

worn too

large around

Should the hole be too deep in the picker, the shuttle is bound and the boxes will not change freely. A crooked or warped picker will not slide freely in the slot and the
the picker-spindle.
shuttle
is

not driven with enough force.

Incorrect timing of the boxes has the effects described

32.

under 27.
structions.

The boxes should be timed according

to previous in-

WEAVING
33.
soft pick,

209

Looseness of the boxes in the slides not only causes a

but also
out.

is

the cause of the shuttle the motion

is

becommg broken
the picker-

and flying

When

imparted to
it,

stick, instead of the shuttle

alone receiving

the boxes, being

loose, are carried

forward and the front end

boxes bind in the
slides

is

thrown below the

plate.

race-plate, causing the shuttle to strike the

end of the

34.
freely

If

the

they will not move

and the shuttle being crooked

in the

box cannot be thrown

straight.

35. 36. 37.

Worn

binder pin and pin-hole.

Loose crank-arms.
Occasionally one crank-arm will wear out faster than

the other without being noticed, or

new

ones will be slightly un-

equal

and
effect.

tlie

throw of

tlie

lay
off.

will

This causes the loom to bang

consequently be uneven. Binding crank-arms have the

because

same

38.

Shoes slipping will cause the loom to bang

off

of a soft pick,

but

if

they are

fixed according

to

instructions

given they will rarely work loose.

tightening
is sufficient

Unless the shoes are worn,

remedy the trouble. Worn shoes have the same effect as loose ones, but the 39. A worn shoe only satisfactory remedy is to fit new ones.
to

oftentunes

Avears

the

shaft

also,

so that

the shoe will not

fit

squarely upon
40.

it, and the shaft will also require repairing. Lack of oil causes the pick-ball to bind. This will spoil the ball and stud and the only satisfactory remedy is to replace it. It is impossible to obtain a good picking action if the 41. pick shaft binds, and this is one of the causes of a loom requiring

more power when picking from one side than the other. To test the shaft remove the sweep-stick and turn by hand, when any binding will become apparent and the bearings can be set to
remedy.
the pick-ball and stud become worn, the best remedy is to replace them with new ones. Fit the stud in the flat slot of the extension as snugly as possible, with the collar
42.

When

agamst the
constant

casting.

Lack

of attention to this small detail

fixing

and tightening

of

the

stud,

means which otherwise

would not be

required.

210

WEAVING
43.

worn sweep-stick allows

too

much

play to the lug

strap
stick

and

stick,

with a consequent loss of power.

The sweep-

end to strengthen it. Set the sweep-stick and lug-strap m a direct line from the picking-stick to the picking-arm when the crank shaft is just behind the top center, as it is at this time that the hardest pull comes on the Failure to set the sweep-stick in this manner pick motion. causes the studs in the picking arms to become loose, or if the stud is cast with the arm, tends to break it off, or makes the hole
should be riveted at the
in the sweep-stick longer.
It is also a cause of the picking-arm

breaking because of being twisted.

strap on the outside of the stick.

The

sweep-stick

and lug-

strap should be set as nearly level as possible with the stirrup-

leather or rawhide washer

should be placed between the

split

pin

the picking-arm stud

and the sweep-stick. Old pickers may be cut up for this purSometimes a sweep-stick is too long and it comes in pose. This will contact with the dog as the picking-stick is drawn in.
not only cause the loom to bang
the shuttle.
"off,

but will sometimes throw

For looms with from 28 inches to 42 inches reed

space, a sweep-stick of 6 inches to 7 inches will be

found to give

good

results.

44.

On

narrow looms the picking-arm

bracket fixed to the
is

is

changeable,

bemg

placed

pick-shaft.

When
is

these get

loose the result

either a soft pick or a hard jarring pick, accordslip.

ing to the

way they

An
is

iron

wedge

usually placed

between the stick and

45.

set

screw to prevent undue wearing.

loose, it is forced

When

the pick-shaft
is
it

away from

the ball and there

a loss of power.

Before fixing the picking-

arm
filed
fits

to the shaft

should be examined, and any rough places

smooth.

It does

not pay to tighten up the arm unless

it

it

squarely on the shaft, as otherwise

soon becomes loose and

spoils the shaft.

46.

Loose driving pulley.

Different weights and sizes of shuttles cannot be used on a loom at the same tune, as the power to drive them would have to vary proportionately. 48. Shuttles worn round on the back and bottom are
47.
.

WEAVING

^11

equally bad, as they cannot be driven straight, and often turn

over in crossing the lay.

49.
50.

Worn wood

pulley.

If the binder pin

uneven pressure on the

strikes the binder.

shuttle,

and hole is worn, there will be an depending upon how the shuttle

Explanation of Fig. 133 on Page 202.

A and
C.

B. Worn picking cones. Worn picking ball, D. Worn knob or pick shaft point. E. F, and G. Worn pick points. H. Worn bearing for bottom shaft. Worn shoe. I. Worn power-stick. J.

Shuttle Flying Out.

this section

number

of the causes of the

loom
points

banging off are also the cause of the shuttle fiymg out, so that in
will be

when the same cause occurs, reference to those made by number and the explanation can be found

in the

previous chapter.
4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 22, 24, 25, 26, 27,

28, 29, 32, 33, 34, 48.

50.
51. 52.

Also,

worn picking
shuttle.

sLick.

Worn

53.
54. 55.

Loose top shed. Bottom shed too high

off the race-plate.

Worn

spindle-stud.
in the shed.

Yarn clinging together

Race-plate loose.

56.
57.

Feelers too low in the shed.

Shuttle spindle-pin working through the back of the shuttle. Harness spring broken or weak, not pulling the harness low enough for the yarn to be on the race-plate. Loose crank-arras.
is, in some way the reed has the level of the back of the from forward

58.
59.

60.

Reed over and under

become bent so that
box.
it is

faced, that

This causes the shuttle to strike against that part, be it ever so little, and the nose of the shuttle is turned out from the reed. The way to straighten this is to have a flat piece of iron held

212

WEAVING
reed

against the back of the reed, and straighten the end of the

with a flat-faced hammer, also

pitch that
is

assist the

reed by softening the

this

around the casing of the reed, and in

manner they

can often be returned to a straight jjosition, but

is

if

the whole reed

out of square, then

it

would have

to be trued up,

and sometimes
being over

this

can be done by altering the lay cap.

it

If the reed

faced does not throw the shuttle out,

shuttle

has a tendency to spoil the

by splintering it at the back where it first comes in contact with the reed, and this often breaks the yarn out, because when the weaver is placing the sliuttle in the box it is apt to be turned
a
little

causmg the

splintered portion to rub against the yarn.

loose picker will cause the shuttle to fly out, because the picker

on the stick to any position the shuttle forces it, and when the stick is at the end of the stroke, instead of the shuttle being slightly elevated at the back, it is down on the race-plate, and the
slides

top of the hole of the picker strikes the tip of the shuttle, and the

nose of the shuttle

is

raised up, consequently

it

will usually fly out.

is

Another cause
shuttle
is

is

the shed

openmg

too late and there

it,

not

sufficient space for the shuttle to enter

the result

is

either the

thrown out on the first pick, or it is retarded so much that it does not go far enough in the box at the opposite side, but still sufficiently to raise up the dagger, and on the next pick the picker strikes the shuttle when the pick is at its quickest time, and m this way the shuttle is often thrown out. The shed closing too soon Avill also have the same effect as too early a shed. When that portion of the pickmg-stick is worn which comes
in contact with the picker,
it

causes a

jump
stick.

to the picker

and con-

sequently jumps the shuttle.

the

It is best to

round

off the corners of

worn

place, or replace
is

a shuttle that
will not

shuttle means round on the back and bottom, such a shuttle

it

with a new

Worn

hug

the reed, with the result that

is

often

flies

out.
is

If

the bottom shed

too high off the race-plate, the shuttle

;

thrown

up as it leaves the box a sunilar result occurs from cause 59. A worn spindle stud is the general cause of persons being injured by When the stud is worn and the picking-stick shuttles flyilrg out. works forward, the stud has a tendency to work out from the box, which means that the picker will draw the back end of the shuttle
to the

back of the box, forcmg out the front end of the shuttle

WEAVING

213

Fig. 134,

Worn

Parts of

Loom Causing

Shuttle to Fly Out.

214

WEAVING
is,

the consequence

instead of
its

tlie

shuttle being controlled in

fly out.

measure,
practice
fix

it is

aAvay from

support and will

A common
dangerous to
a.

is

to

pack the worn stud with

leather.

It is

because the leather has a tendency to become loose after

the hole of the

picks have been run.

Steel cups can be purchased from the

filling in

few loom

makers for the purpose of

worn

stud.

Yarn wrong timmg

race-plate

clinging in the shed

may

be the result of poor sizing,

of the shed, or too small a shed.

Sometunes the
sides,

becomes loose in the center, also at the

but more
fix

often the former, and in nineteen out of every twenty cases the
fault is not seen until ahnost everythuig else has

been done to

owing to the yarn covering the race-plate. show itself on the shuttle, for the latter will be chipped on the top owing to striking the top of the boxes. If the
the fault.
Tliis is

Such a

fault will

fiUmg motion feelers are low in the shed, they mterfere with the passmg of the shuttle acrosc the lay. Sometimes the back of the shuttle will be so much worn that the spindle-pin protrudes and catches the reed. If a harness spring is broken or weak, it will not pull down the harness, so that the yarn is up off the raceplate.

This causes the shuttle to run crooked.

is

If the

crank-arms

are loose, there

an uneven motion to the

is

lay,

which causes the

shuttle to fly out generally as the crank

center.

passing over the top

Explanation of Fig. 134 on Page 213.

A and
C.

B.

Worn

shuttles caused

D.
E.

Worn Worn Worn

shuttle caused

by under or over-faced reed. by boxes being too high or too low.

picker.

projection on picking stand.

Uneven
thhi places.

Cloth; meaning shady cloth and cloth with thick and

Late or early shed.

Small shed.' Loose rocker shaft bearing.

Odd

crank-arms.

Loose crank-arms. Loose reed.

Uneven Uneven

shed.
filling.

WEAVING
Gudgeons or beam spikes Broken beam flanges.
bent.

215

Worn Damp

wbip-roll.
friction.

Take-up motion out of order.

Tin or sand roller bearing worn. Loose perforated tin or tin roller. Too deep in gear with beam head. Upright shaft binding. Worn stud on oscillating lever. Rough teeth on beam head. V Pawl and spring worn. Spring worn in boss of upright lever.
Oily friction strap.

Gear Let

off.'

Worn
Rope

ratchet.

twisted around the

beam

head.

Cloth under friction band in a grimy condition.

Friction lever resting on the band or

beam head.

Crooked beam head

so that

it

touches the whip-roll

when

the

crooked portion comes round.

Too much

pull on the friction cloth roller will strain the cloth, and occasionally causes two teeth to be taken up on the take-

up motion. Uneven setting

of the harness.

A number of the
Uneven
vt^ith

above causes suggest the remedy.

This
is

Cloth.

one of the hardest things to contend

is

especially in a

weave room where the humidity

let-off naturally feels

not under
of

control.

The

friction

the

effect

the

dampness more than the gear let-off, although in some cases the strap that checks somewhat the let-off of the gear is influenced by dampness. The friction let-off is most certamly the best, take it as a whole, that is, the rope wrapped around the beam head, or it may be a chain, an iron band or raw hide. These most certainly give the best results if attended to, but if allowed to go as they please, as the common term is, they are the worst form of let-off. If the rope has become sticky, a little powdered black lead will French chalk is often used, and with soon remedy this defect. good results, but this is more liable than graphite to cake and become sticky with change of atmosphere or if some oil is acciden-

216

WEAVING
dropped on the beam head.
oil

tally

There are some

fixers

who have

on the beam head, clamimg that it allowed the rope to slip more freely, but the very same fixers have been seen to take It great pains in wiping off the oil under other circumstances. sometmies happens that uneven cloth is caused by tlie spike or gudgeon in the beam having been sprung this is caused by banging the beam on the floor, and as the yarn is drawn off, the uneven
used
;

turn of the

beam causes unequal

is

let-off of

the yarn.

The take-up motion

often the cause of

uneven

cloth.

The

Fig. 135.

Worn

Parts of

Loom Causing Uneven

Cloth.

majority of take-up motions that are on the two pick prmciple,

that
is,

receiving motion from the pick

little

cam

shaft, are constructed

so that with a at a time.

change they can be made to take up two teeth Under this construction, it is natural then that the

ratchet gear has a little play more than what is necessary to take up one tooth, because it is owmg to the loss of a portion of a tooth by the check-pawl, and a portion also by the take-up lever that the motion only takes up one tooth. The converging of these pomts and the usmg of the loss of space travelled by the take-up lever and

WEAVING
the check-pawl, enables the motion to take
ratchet gear does not

217

up two

teeth.

If the

one can expect an uneven cloth, because instead of swinging back a little to meet the check-pawl, the gear stays in the position to which
it is drawn by the take-up lever, and tliis will occasionally cause two teeth to be taken up. Uneven spun yarn makes a bad looking cloth, and this is sometimes called a cockly cloth. The uneven

swmg a little and work perfectly free, then

settmg of the harness will cause uneven cloth, that is, the harness not lifting equally at both sides, or an uneven shed, one lifting
higher than the other. be too careful at the
straight,
is

Wlien using a gear let-off, a fixer cannot starting up of the warp to see that all is and that the gear which is in contact with the beam head
first

is one of the most common causes of complamt, because the teeth around the beam head are not always

not too deep in gear.

This

as clean as they

might

be.
if

Small chips of iron are on the mner

is

edge of the teeth, and

the driving gear

too deep
are,

when

the

beam has been turned

jump, and, in this

to

where the rough teeth

is
;

the warp will

way

cause these places.

Sometimes the gear

is

m right pitch with the beam head,

the possibility
is

and

yet thin places are caused

that the

beam

spike
If the

sprung causing an

uneA''en contact
is

with the drivmg gear.

stud on which the rod

result,

placed

is

worn, uneven cloth will be the

and sometmies the spring that keeps the pawl m contact its strength, and occasionally the pawl will sUp over the teeth of the ratchet instead of engaging in This causes an uneven let-off. This Kttle system of lookthem. before one uses a wrench comes m handy, for by the moving mg
with the ratchet gear has lost
of the small collar, a great difference in the let-off will be the result.

On

a let-off motion, a spring

upright lever.

This

assists in bringing
if

same tune the pawl;

contact with the back the lever and at the the spring should slip, uneven cloth is
is
it

often placed

sometunes caused, but not often, as

point in the let-off motion.

cannot be called a vital

will sometimes miss turn-

The pawl

ing the ratchet gear owing to the pawl being worn, and this point
is

often overlooked, the same as the sprmg.

Uneven cloth

is

often
if

caused by the arm that supports the whip-roll being worn, and
there
is

much

vibration of the whip-roll, this has a tendency to

is

raise a little

out of the place that

worn, and

if

the ends of the

218

WEAVING
worn unevenly
so that
if

whip-roll are
little, it is

the roll moves around

raised higher up, consequently

uneven cloth
as

will be the

result.

round whip-roll
;

is

the best

if

the hearings are

it is

kept

clean and well oiled

off the

it

moves around with the yarn

is

drawn

beam and

there

less

possibility

of the yarn wearing

grooves in the
roll,

roll, as it often does what is termed a flat whipexplained more fully under the head of " Construction of a

loom.'"

When
movement
one
is
;

the rocker shaft bearing

to lay

is

loose, there is

an uneven
is

when

beating up.

If the

crank-arm
If a
it

loose, or

slightly longer than the other, the reed does not beat

evenly

a loose reed gives the same result.

broken,

when

the heavier side

is

passing down,
is

up beam flange is goes down more

is
is

quickly than
this so

when

the broken side

passing down, especially

when fancy

cloths are being woven,

and

it

not uncom-

mon

to

add a weight to the broken

side to balance the

is

beam.
jumps,

When
lap,

the bearing for the sand roller

worn,

the roller

causing cloudy cloth.

Loose perforated

tin will

sometmies over-

causing a thin place in the cloth.

Occasionally the guide

roller will

come

loose

and turn, and

if

it

has not been set straight,

uneven cloth will be the result. If the cloth under the friction band is allowed to remain on too long, it becomes sticky, and
allows the

beam

to let off in jumps.

is

Occasionally

when

attaching

the friction, the knot in the cloth

friction

allowed to remain under the

If the fricit

band and

this will cause very

tion lever is allowed to rest

uneven let-off. on the band or beam head,

warp.

will pre-

vent the proper letting

a top

off of the

Sometimes the weight will touch the floor, or the weight from beam touches the loAver beam. If the beam head is crooked, when it turns round it will touch the whip-roll. If there is too much pull on the friction cloth roller the cloth will be strained, and
it

will also occasionally cause

two teeth

to be taken

ratchet gear.

If the harnesses are not set level,

up on the shady dyed cloth

is

will almost certainly be the result, because the sheds being lower

on that side the cloth

there
is

is

trifle

thicker, the

consequence

that
cen-

a difference in the absorption of the dye stuff.

The

ter harness connection

coiiie this.

If

on the Knowles Loom was designed to overone edge of the cloth is slack through the fault of

WEAVING
tlie

219

temple, shady piece dyed cloth will result.

Sometimes there
so with
is

are distinct cracks in the cloth,

and

in nine cases out of every ten,

is this

they are caused by slack yarn, especially

of four or

more harnesses.

Notice the cloth that

cam work woven and one

the loom,

will see the defects occur almost regularly.

Then watch

and the probable cause will be the yarn is slack on one certain harness, and when the filling is beaten up the slack yarn forms ui a rub which prevents the close beating up of the filling, raising that
harness up a
little

to tighten the yarn.

Explanation of Fig. 135 on Page 216.

A.
B.
C.

D.
E.

Worn link. Worn treadle-pin. Worn treadle-phxg. Worn treadle-bowl. Worn connecting rod

of let-off motion.

EXAMINATION PAPER

WEAVING.
PART
11.

Instruction to the Student. Place your name and full address at the of the paper. Use any cheap, light paper like the sample already sent you, of a size about 7 by 9 inches. Study the Instruction Paper thoroughly before attempting to answer the Examination, and then answer in your own words.

head

1.
2.

What

is

the purpose of the fillmg stop motion?

filling stop

Describe the alternate

motion.

3. Of what value is the protection motion on a plain loom? How would you set the dagger Describe how this motion works.

m relation
4.
5.

to the receiver?

Describe fully the Crompton

Gingham box motion.

to,

What particular

points

must be attended

when

fitting

new

set of
6.

boxes to the loom ?

Describe what would occur from a worn receiving plate

on the protection motion.

7.

How

would

this occur?

Describe the two distinct shapes of forks on the alternate

filling

stop motion.

Has one any advantage over

is

the other,

if

so,

how ?
8.

Of what value

the lock-knife on the Knowles Ging-

ham box motion ? Give What is liable 9.

stick ?

the timing of the lock-knife.

to occur

from a worn picker and picking-

Describe

fully.
filling

10. 11.

Describe the center

stop motion.

What
:

is

liable to occur

from the following on the pro-

tection motion

worn dagger

point, dagger too long, dagger too

short?
12.

Describe

how

the faults occur.

froni'

Describe what faults occur

slides.

the boxes

bmding

or

being too loose in the

224

WEAVING
13.
If the

small segment gear shaft

what would take place ?

ton motion.
14.

Describe

how

this

was bent or sprung, would occur. Crompfilling

Give the timing of the alternate

stop

motion
the

cam.

Is there
?

any reason

why

this
if

cam should not be on

any ?

opposite time
15.
results
?
,

What

is

the reason,

How

would you

set the feeler wires to obtain the best

full

answer required.

16.

Suppose the spring check finger on the Crompton motion

result
?

did not rest squarely on the check studs connected to the disc,

what would
17.

Tell

how

this occurs.

plates ?
18.

How would Why ?

Describe

you

set the picker

relation to the guide

Give the timmg of the center fiUmg stop motion.

19.
race-plate,

how you would set the boxes level with the and how the leverage is adjusted on the Crompton box
it

motion.
20.

Does

require

more power

to drive the shuttle

when

the boxes are loose in the slides, than

when they

are fitted as they

ought to be ?
21.

If so,

how ?
Crompton Loom.
stop motion withfilling
?

Describe the grasshopper motion.

If the

22.

loom was stopped by the

out the fiUmg breakmg, what would occur

23.

How ?

How
What

should the picker spindle be set in relation to the

is liable

boxes

to occur

from the wrong settmg or a worii

spmdle stud?
24.

Describe
motion.
25.

How? What is the value how faults occur if

What
is

of

the

box

protection
to

motion

this

fails

work.

Crompton

the value of the multiplier

the box cham.

Describe

how

it

works

m relation to

Crompton

or Knowles.

26. Is it better to elevate the back end of the boxes or not? In either case give reasons for answer.
27.

Describe the Knowles

Gingham box motion.

practical value of a

28.

What

points determine the

box

motion ?

WEAVING
29.

225

When

building box chains, what particular points need

consideration ?

box level with the race-plate, get the right leverage on the second box if it How obtam was below or above the race-plate when raised? Knowles the right leverage on the third and fourth boxes ?
30.

After setting the

first

how would you

motion.
31.

What

vital point

needs consideration in the running of

the picking-stick with the picker ?

32.

Why ?

Make out

the box chain and multiplier for the following

pattern, arranging the shuttles in the boxes to the best advantage.

This

is

a four and one box loom

60 blue, 10 white,

2 red,

2 white, 2 red, 2 white, 2 red, 10 white, 8 blue, 8 white, 8 blue, 8 white, 8 blue, 10 white.
33.

Make
;

out the box and multiplymg chain for the follow-

ing pattern

pick and pick loom, also show method of arrangmg

shuttles in the boxes.

30 blue, 4 red, 20 blue, 4 red, 30 blue, 8 brown, 4 black, 8 brown, 4 black, 8 brown, 4 black, 8 brown,
silk,

4 gold

16 black.
least ten causes for
is

34.
35.

Give at

loom banging
for

off.
?

What
fully.

the

cause

and remedy

temple marks

Explaui
36.
.

Would
?

the same kind of burr temple be used on

all

classes of fabrics

Give

full reasons for

your answer.

37.

Explain fully the advantage gamed from staggermg

the harness.
38. 39.

What would you

do to help a soft sized warp to weave

somewhat on an
40.
Is
it

Suppose the picks of filling are bemg laid in the cloth angle, what would you consider the cause
.?

possible to run different weights of shuttles in the

in a four

same loom, especially

41.

and one box loom

Why ?

What

effect v/ould a heavily built loom and lay have on

if

a fine piece of cloth, especially

the eccentricity of the lay was

very pronounced
42.

How ?
treat an extra sized

How

would you

warp

to get

it

to

weave ?

Why ?

226

WEAVING
48.

up iii the mornmg you found a number of looms banguig off caused by excessive moisture in the room, what method would you pursue to overcome the
Supposing that after the
start

faults?
44.

Why?
What
effect

would the following have on the

cloth:

rusty temple ring

temj)le ?

spindle,

waste in the temple rings, crooked

45.

Make

out the chain plan for the following pattern:

yarn, 3 picks white, 3 picks D. T.

3 picks

brown and white D. T.

yarn, 3 picks white, 2 picks printed yarn, 3 picks white, 3 picks

D. T. yarn, 3 picks white yarn, 3 picks D. T. yarn, 2 picks printed

yarn, 2 picks light blue, 3 picks white, 2 picks light blue, 1 pick fancy, 2 picks blue, 3 picks white, 3 picks D. T., 3 picks white, 3 picks D. T., 1 pick fancy. 46.

Supposing four colors of

?

filling

loom, and one was a soft spun

that filling into

filling,

were being used in a which box would you place

Why ?

After completing the work, add and sign the following statement: hereby certify that the above work is entirely my own.
(Signed)

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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