(Palgrave Advances in Luxury) Cesare Amatulli, Matteo de Angelis, Michele Costabile, Gianluigi Guido Sustainable Luxury Brands - Evidence From Research and Implications For Man
LUXURY MARKETI NG 2 Luxury items have been dened as anything people buy that they dont need. Need is not a precursor to purchase in the luxury market. Luxury consumers buy based upon desirethey arent buying a thing, they are buying to achieve a feeling, to enhance an experience or to get an emotional lift. Luxury is about achieving a comfortable lifestyle in the material realmhaving those things that make life easier, more pleasant and more satisfying. Having a luxury lifestyle is not about money; it is about the experiences and feelings that having enough money can bring. People want to surround themselves with things that reflect their personality and things that they enjoy. In the United States, luxury observers note that there are 4 million households that have an income of more than $1 million (ultra high-end luxury sector), and an estimated 48 million households earning between $50,000- $150,000 (driving force behind democratization of luxury). THE LUXURY MARKET DEFI NED MOVI NG FROM THE MASSES TO THE CLASSES In the past, when luxury was first introduced to the classes it, slowly moved to the masses. Nowadays, this happens right away. The notion of luxury has entered peoples vocabulary in large part because of the media. The increased availability of celebrity magazines and TV, as well as additional coverage in more traditional consumer publications means that more people know what is available. Because of this increased awareness, luxury consumers now have the desire to be a part of something more glamorousnot to distinguish themselves from others, but to feel part of the group. Consumers are bombarded with stimuli encouraging them (to buy luxury items)stores are dream palaces; websites are windows; advertisements have perfected the vision and language of dreaming; and dreaming is the source of innovation. The constant bombardment leads to people being able to visualize themselves as better for purchasing a particular luxury good. Pressure from the most affluent consumers stimulates and accelerates innovation at the high end, which cascades downward to lower-priced productsmaking innovation more affordable and available to more people. A LUCRATI VE OPPORTUNI TY The luxury market space is a lucrative category because many manufacturers and marketers do not understand how to reach this market, or they do it inadequately. Additionally, luxury purchases transcend the volatility of the market. According to The Boston Consulting Group, the global market for new luxury goods is currently estimated to be $500 million and will reach $1 trillion by 2010. LUXURY MARKETI NG 3 In the past, the theory of cocooning has dominated the way of thinking about luxury consumers. A large portion of old luxury purchasers were empty nesters who put a premium on time and on their home. Traditionally, the luxury consumer prole was: traditional, old, rich, white, male, and inherited wealth. Old luxury was about having and owningit was a very materialistic view. Luxury equaled exclusivity, which is no longer valid with todays democratically minded luxury consumer. It was dened by attributes, qualities and product features, and much of the appeal was derived by status and prestige. It focused on the thing being bought. The old view of luxury is dying out. LUXURY CONSUMER TYPES NEW VIEW OF LUXURY New luxury is completely dened from the point of view of the consumer. It is no longer about the thing people are buying; it is about the experience and feeling the luxury product delivers. How the product delivers or performs experientially is key with todays luxury consumers. The new luxury consumer is better educated and more sophisticated in taste. The Internet, home shows, and affordable travel have exposed more people to other global lifestyles that are not as fast-paced. New luxury consumers: | Want it all but are exhausted trying to get it. | Are influenced by friends and cultural gures but have strong tastes of their own. | Dont believe in debt, but dont let money stand in the way of buying what they want. | Need a lot of understanding. When they get it, they are not only appreciative they are also likely to open up their pocket books and spend money. A large portion of the new luxury generation is baby boomers that are known for challenging authority, rejecting the status quo, and making their own paths. There are 76 million baby boomers age 38-57 entering the empty-nesting stage, which corresponds with increased luxury spending. Some other types of new luxury consumers are: Silicon Valley, entertainers, professional athletes, entrepreneurs, trust fund babies, aspirational buyers, even generation X and Y who are willing to save in order to buy the best. Americas middle market is also part of this group as they are trading up to luxury items. DEMOCRATICALLY MINDED, NOT INTO EXCLUSIVITY New luxury consumers are not into the idea of exclusivity; they are more democratically minded these days. They are only into exclusivity coming from their ability to express a personal point of view, an attitude or their own uniqueness. New luxury avoids class distinctions; it appeals more to a value system (i.e. buying new luxury xtures in the bath doesnt say I make big bucks; it communicates I am intelligent and discerning.) Todays luxury consumers believe everyone is entitled to luxury (democratic approach); they believe luxury is for everyone and different for everyone. According to a recent survey of luxury consumers, 90% of these consumers agree that luxury doesnt have to be the most expensive thing or be the most exclusive brand. LUXURY MARKETI NG 4 New luxury consumers believe that if you dont understand it, or cant say why it is worth it, you dont want to own it, or experience it, even if you can afford it. Marketers must give people a reason to believe why it is worth it to them. New luxury consumers want products that deliver real technical, functional and emotional benets. According to recent research on luxury consumers (based on a two-year longitudinal study on luxury consumers with incomes of $75,000 and above), there are four groups that make up this market space. They are: X- FLUENTS = EXTREMELY AFFLUENT This group spends the most on luxury and are the most highly invested in luxury living. The super rich have always distanced themselves from others, but the distance has shrunk. They want to continue to distance themselves. The way to reach this group is through continual innovation. COCOONERS = OLD LUXURY Forty percent of luxury consumers are Cocooners who are inwardly directed and focus their time and attention on making their homes more luxurious. They are disconnected from others and the outside world. More than 50% of their luxury spending is on home-related luxuries. They only spend about 65% of what Butterflies do. BUTTERFLI ES = NEW LUXURY Twenty-ve percent of luxury consumers are Butterflies. They are called butterflies because they are coming out of their homes and starting to reconnect with the outside world. They dene their personal identity by connecting with the outside world. | They spend nearly as much on luxury items as X-fluents. | They are less materialistic than Cocooners or Aspirers, and they understand that things dont bring happiness. | They have the highest average income of any of the types (excluding X-fluents), and they live in the most expensive homes. | One-third of their luxury spending is on home-related luxuries. | They spend the most buying luxuries, about $14K on average per year. | They have a deep desire to nd new meaning and establish new equilibrium in their lives. | They feel conflicted between roles they play in their inner and external worlds. | They feel blessed they have so much success and have a need to give back to society, e.g. Bill Gates, Ted Turner. | They are not motivated by status or exclusivity when they buy luxury goods. | They are democratic in their view of luxury. | They seek connections in all areas of life: political, social, etc. | They spend the most on personal services that free them from the drudgery of day-to-day life, so they can spend time out connecting. Eventually they will evolve into Cocooners. LUXURY ASPI RERS Thirty percent of luxury consumers are Aspirers. This group is highly attuned to brands and believes luxury is best expressed in what they buy and what they own. | They are driven to buy and display, but are not at the level that theyd like to be. | They are driven by the need to have and to own. | Aspirers spend less than half of what Butterflies do. BREAKOUT OF THE LUXURY MARKET BY TYPE LUXURY MARKETI NG 5 According to current luxury marketing theory and surveys, emotions are behind 100% of consumer spending on luxury items. There are four emotional spaces that influence the buying habits of new luxury consumers: 1. Take Care of Me: well-being, relaxation 2. Connecting: membership, attractiveness 3. Questing: adventure, learning through play 4. Individual Style: status, uniqueness TAKE CARE OF ME A new trend in the luxury market is self-actualizationbuying enhanced life experiences. The way marketers tap into this is by focusing on selling a feeling or an experience. Cultural icons like Oprah Winfrey encourage this by telling viewers to take care of themselves. CONNECTI NG Marketing to luxury consumers is all about connecting with the consumerknowing them, understanding them and getting inside their heads and hearts. Consumers are reconnecting with the outside world and reaching out to establish true connections with others. Because of easy accessibility to the Internet, tv shows and affordable travel, consumers are connecting to different global styles, which affect their desires, and ultimately the luxury goods they pursue. QUESTI NG Questing is dened as nding fulllment through knowledge. Todays luxury consumers research products thoroughly before buying. Again, they are exposed to so much more knowledge in todays world and are going out more and seeing what other people have. New luxury consumers are drawn to new products and quest for new experiences. I NDI VI DUAL STYLE Consumers seek products that express their individuality (i.e. nishes, designs, etc.). American luxury consumers value exclusivity that comes from their ability to express a personal point of view, an attitude and their own uniqueness. Exclusivity for the sake of exclusivity is a European luxury ideal, not an American ideal. Here is an example of how the emotional drivers come togetherA woman soaking in a tub is taking care of herself, while also preparing for a moment of connecting, wanting to feel, look and smell good before her dinner date. UNDERSTANDI NG LUXURY BUYI NG BEHAVI OR Todays luxury marketing and behaviors are driven by a strong sense of me. It is all about the feeling consumers get from purchasing, owning and enjoying a product. Luxury consumers want more specialness in their experience of luxury. They focus on the experience of luxury embodied in the good or service they buy, not in the ownership or possession itself. Luxury is tied up with creature comforts and feelings of comfort. Consumers will pay a premium to recreate a wonderful emotional experience. All luxury consumers, up and down the income scale, gain their greatest luxury thrills from experiences. When a consumer purchases a luxury item, there is an expectation of better quality, fine details, and better material. This makes the luxury consumer willing to dig deeper into their pocketbooks to buy that extra feeling of confidence. Luxury consumers dont buy luxury for status or social advancement and wont buy things they clearly cant afford. The differences within the luxury market are more behavioral than motivational. THE RELATI ONSHI P BETWEEN EMOTI ONS AND LUXURY PURCHASES LUXURY MARKETI NG 6 Based on consumer research from The Boston Consulting Group, a major shift has occurred in the retail market. Americas middle market is trading up to new luxury products (products that possess higher levels of quality, taste and aspiration). There are 48 million households in America with incomes more than $50K that have the means and desire to trade up to new luxury products. People are willing to spend a large amount of their income for products that have greater technical and emotional benets. Consumers continually seek to achieve greater levels of luxury. Once they have reached a level, it becomes ordinary and they seek out new luxury fulllment (questing). Once they have experienced luxury they cant go back. Luxury consumers appreciate superior quality, but they get a thrill out of paying less for the best. According to a recent survey: 80% of luxury consumers agree that they enjoy the feeling of buying luxuries on sale and usually search out the lowest price or best value. They are savvy shoppers that know how to nd a bargain. LUXURY CONSUMERS LI KE THE I DEA OF PAYI NG LESS TRADI NG- UP THEORY LUXURY MARKETI NG 7 Consumers connect with brands on an emotional level. Luxury consumers buy luxury brands because they want to, and because they desire it emotionally (right-brain controlled). The consumers passion, loyalty, dreams and desires are all tied up with the brand. Connecting to the consumer on an emotional level is the key to a brands success. Marketers need to understand their consumers. They should be asking themselves: What are our consumers drives and desires? How does our brand fulll their fantasies? Luxury product performance is now dened as the quality, design and uniqueness, as well as how it makes the consumer feel, and how they experience luxury. LUXURY BRAND LOYALTY Brands that create the strongest connection with the luxury consumer have a higher brand loyalty. Brand loyalty is about how effectively and completely the companys brand satises the consumers needs, desires and dreams. Marketers make mistakes in assuming that brand loyalty is something a consumer does for them, when in reality, brand loyalty is something the company and the brand do for the consumer (the consumer knows what to expect from the purchase). The brand is the contract between the company and the consumer written in emotions. BRAND AND THE EMOTI ONAL CONNECTI ON It is important that the quality in luxury brands must be very good. However, the level of service, the experience and the customer interaction differ greatly between products. This provides a great opportunity for insightful marketers to position their brand. STATI STI CS A survey of 866 affluent customers done in conjunction with Home & Garden Magazine showed: | While brand doesnt dene luxury, it is the #1 most powerful influencer on the luxury consumer when they buy. The brand and/or representative of the store where the luxury product is sold comes in at #2. | When asked what encouraged people to buy their last luxury item: 82% said company brand and rep 78% said store or dealer brand and rep 60% said word-of-mouth | In luxury marketing these three things working together most strongly influence the consumer to buy: 1. Product brand 2. Dealer/store brand/reputation 3. Price/value relationship LUXURY PRODUCTS AND BRANDI NG Luxury is not defined by brand; if the product carries a luxury label it doesnt mean it is part of the new luxury market. It is only part of the new luxury market if consumers desire it, but dont need it, and want a personal or experiential connection to it. The brand of the luxury item is not the primary reason luxury consumers buy it; it only justifies the purchase. So, branding still plays a critical role in luxury purchases. The more extravagant the purchase, the more justifiers needed (good name, in fashion, last longer, etc.). LUXURY MARKETI NG 8 HOW TO MARKET LUXURY PRODUCTS Many manufacturers are having trouble successfully reaching the new luxury market because they fail to understand the infor- mation listed below. For those marketers who get it, there is a ton of untapped potential in the luxury market. It is essential for manufacturers, retailers and marketers to nd ways to connect with consumers. SUGGESTI ONS ON HOW TO CONNECT | Create two-way dialogues with consumers, potential consumers and future ones. | Build consumer feedback into marketing plans (e.g., cable companies talk with viewers, viewers participate in polls, etc.). | Must have two-way interconnectedness at every point of contact for the consumer. Company websites, retail stores, and the brands the stores carry are all connected in the consumers mind, so make sure the marketing strategy encompasses all these areas. | Manufacturers must upgrade the caliber and quality of any and all people who represent the company and interact with customers, especially when picking retailers. | Implement strategies that will predispose customers to talk and share positive things about the brand (i.e. word-of- mouth campaigns). | Must connect why the consumer buys with how to reach them and where to reach them. Its about connecting with the consumer and the things they care about. Connecting means talking less and listening more, giving more value rather than increasing price, its about being involved and passionate about the consumer, rather than waiting for the consumer to come to you. A great example of connecting is Progressive Insurance. They offer consumers the ability to get quotes online. If a consumer is having trouble lling out the required information, they can click on a button that enables them to talk to a Progressive representative. Once they click on the button, a representative calls them within moments. THE EMOTI ONAL CONNECTI ON, MAKI NG THE CONSUMER FEEL SPECI AL Marketing a luxury good is not about selling a thing; it is about selling an experience, and ultimately enhancing the consumers pleasure and enjoyment. Marketers must deliver greater exclusivity by making luxury consumers feel special and unique, but not to the point of class snobbishness or arrogance. The consumers passion for the product is connected to their experience using the product, so marketers need to connect with the consumers passion by digging deep into the consumers psyche to understand their emotional dreams and desires. Then they need to deliver that to the consumer with their product. Manufacturers must look at the world and their products totally from the consumers point of view. They need to ask themselves: | How does this product help the consumer? | How does the product create, support or enhance an experience? LUXURY MARKETI NG 9 | Into what feelings, emotion or enjoyment does it translate? | How does it make the person feel to use the product? | Look at product featureswhat experience do they bring to individuals? The founder of Revlon once said, In the factory we make cosmetics, in the stores we sell hope. There needs to be a balance between emotional and rational selling. Because new luxury consumers justify their purchases and wont buy it if they dont understand it. Marketers need to focus on demonstrating the emotional benets as well as giving consumers a reason to believe why it is worth it to purchase the luxury good/service. Again, consumers buy things to achieve a feeling, enhance an experience, get an emotional lift, and fulll a fantasy. Lure customers with emotion, and then close the deal by creating a rationale for the purchase. KEEPI NG THE PRODUCTS FRESH AND BRI NGI NG MORE VALUE Luxury marketers must continually extend the bar of luxury higher and higher to bring freshness, newness and something extraordinary to the ever-aspiring luxury consumer. To maintain the luxury allure, they must pump up the luxury value of their brand. Some of the key elements to tapping into new luxury are: high quality, attainable price point, sought-after design and advanced technology. KEY ELEMENTS TO BUI LDI NG A LUXURY BRAND Luxury marketing is based on building a brand, communicating its value, and using the brand as a conduit to connect to the consumer. Brands succeed when they tap into what consumers want as much as what they need. Marketers must understand why people buy their brand so they can connect with their consumers emotionally. The brand conveys a promise to the consumer that the product will satisfy their emotional desire. KEYS TO BUI LDI NG A LUXURY BRAND | A Luxury Brand must be expansivebig ideas give marketers places to venture/opportunities to meet in consumers personal lives. | A Luxury Brand must tell the story behind a product to make the emotional connection (use rich and graphic consumer targeting). | A Luxury Brand must be relevant to consumers needs meet passions and desires emotionally and physically. | A Luxury Brand must align with consumers values todays consumers want their consumerism to provide a greater meaning and they look to do good when they shop. | A Luxury Brand must perform for the consumerit is luxury if it makes the consumer feel special and unique, as well as performing its material purpose. LUXURY MARKETI NG 10 ADVERTI SI NG TO THE LUXURY MARKET (BASED ON A STUDY OF AFFLUENT LUXURY CONSUMERS) | Brand ads should tell a story that will be so involving that the consumer becomes part of the brand story. | Brand ads should be relevant (deliver meaning to consumers lives today) to passions, desires and fantasies of the consumer. | The story must continually be reused, rened, reinvented as values of the consumer change. | The message must relate to many peoples lives and be expansive enough that it can change with the times. Traditional advertising and marketing does not always work for new luxury products. Marketers need to pay attention to cultural icons like Oprah, who say take care of yourself, spend money on yourself, when creating messages for consumers. KEYS TO CREATI NG EFFECTI VE WORD- OF- MOUTH ADVERTI SI NG | Have a new, innovative conceptwhats hot. | Make it a simple conceptdumb it down so ordinary people can understand the concept immediately. | Identify and develop dialogue with the most likely prospects to be your brand ambassadors (those that are most passionate about your product). Manufacturers need to nd creative ways to meet the needs of their best customers and make them feel special. One idea for connecting to plumbing customers is to send a gift at 1 mo., 3 mo., 6 mo., and a yeartowel, massage brush, etc. to their luxury customers. Connecting to the customer encourages repeat purchases/upgrades, and encourages word-of-mouth. Those customers will tell their friends and create a desire for their friends to get the same treatment. HI GH- END FOCUS GROUPS Conducting tactical research is a great way to better understand consumers passions and desires. It is important to be creative and to think outside the box. First get a sense of the decisions your target market is making across categories and segments, and then design the high-end focus group accordingly. Some examples of high-end focus groups are: | Invite affluent consumers in for a private showing and cocktail reception of an exciting new line at a favorite boutique/specialty store. Get feedback by showing products with different technical features, different nishes, etc.think outside the box. | Give away a complimentary gift with an unrelated purchase. For example, a store like Coach, who wants to decide what new color to start making accessories, can give away a leather keychain in the various the colors they are considering. Let the consumers pick which color they want. Leverage retail relationships to conduct qualitative researchmake sure to reward retailer partners for their help. | Survey customers at retail locations (i.e. decorative plumbing/hardware) to determine their satisfaction levels. Assess degrees of customer satisfaction, causes of customer pain, and reasons for dynamic retail experiences. TI PS ON ADVERTI SI NG TO THE LUXURY MARKET LUXURY MARKETI NG 11 FI NDI NG AFFLUENTS There tend to be more liberals under 40 and more conservatives over 40, so focus on subscriber lists of conservative publications to reach Affluents. To reach Affluents consider Architectural Digest and Bon Appetit. To reach Mass-Affluents consider these publications: | Cond Nast Traveler | Gourmet | Vanity Fair | Food & Wine | Martha Stewart Living | Martha Stewart Living Children | Kids: Fun Stuff to Do Together MI SCELLANEOUS MARKETI NG TI PS FOR THE LUXURY MARKET | Showrooms/Displays: Showroom/displays need to be visually stunning. Sixty percent of consumer decisions to purchase were influenced by the retail environment and displays. | Internet Sales: Internet sales do not play a signicant role in the new luxury home market. Todays consumers are smarter and more prepared. They often use the Internet to do research, but less than 15% of new luxury products purchased for the home are sold online. Online retailing as yet does not deliver the emotional gratication that new luxury consumers demand. | Promotions: Consumers like to get luxury items on sale; luxury consumers want to feel like theyve won or achieved special status by saving money. Think of creative ways to inspire shoppers (e.g., giving shoppers a special goodie bag gives an emotional lift). | Satisfaction: Total customer satisfaction is another key to winning in the new luxury market. LUXURY MARKETI NG 12 | Luxury k&b Collection Show: Branding Luxury: Tips on Marketing Brands Affluent www.kitchenbathpros.com | Metrics for Marketing to Luxury Buyers by Andrew Grossman | Know-How ExchangeCustomer Behavior www. marketingprofs.com | Luxury Buyer Is Still Hot Prospect in Volatile Times by Alf Nucifora | Luxury for the MassesTrends in Luxury Item Spending, Marketing by Bob Francis | Luxurys Long Tail by Tim Manners | Paradise by the Bathroom Light www.kitchenbathdesign.com | The Good Brand by Linda Tischler | The Comfort Zone www.kitchenbathdesign.com | Bathrooms to Feed the Soul www.moen.com | Opportunity Knocks as Consumers Embrace Trading Up www.kitchenbathdesign.com | Special Bathroom Suite Series Part IIImpulse Buying www.pmmag.com | Fall Bath Remodeling Report www.kitchenbathdesign. com | Marketing to the Mass-Affluent by Dan Kennedy | Intelligent Bathroom by Philips Research | Understanding Your Brand Aligning Brand Equity to Drive Business Value by Ray George | Business Spotlight: Why Do People Buy What They Dont Need by Michael Rubinkam | 20 Ways to Enhance Your Bathroom House Beautiful Magazine | Splash Out Your Bathroom The Journal | Danbury Business Changes American Design Faireld County Business Journal | Bathrooms Make a SplashThese Days Anything Goes
The Independent | High-Tech Bathrooms: Electronics Final Frontier Electronic Design | Americas Take on New Luxury International Herald Tribune | A Stimulating Experience: Todays Whirlpools, Air BathsWithout Ever Leaving Home Kitchen & Bath Design News | Escape to the Bathroom for a Shower of Amenities Denver Rocky Mountain News | American Standard Study Reveals What Americans Love and Hate About Their Bathrooms PR Newswire | Research and Markets: Future Trends in Luxury Market Analyzed M2 Presswire RESOURCES LUXURY MARKETI NG 13 | Articles by Pam Danzinger (Widely published author and authority on Luxury Marketing www.unitymarketing.com) | Connecting Replaces Cocooning as New Butterfly Consumers Emerge | Eight Things That Every Marketer Needs to Know About the New Luxury Market | Meet the Butterfly Consumers: The Evolving New Affluent Consumer | The Lesson In RetailingLet the Consumer Win | Word of Mouth Advertising: Entirely Too Powerful to Leave up to Chance | Brand Loyalty Starts and Ends With the Consumer | Tabletop Companies: Are You Tapping Into the Consumers Passion | The Six Myths of Luxury Branding 2006 Point to Point | 23240 Chagrin Blvd, Suite 200, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 Tel: 216 831-4421 pointtopoint .com P O I N T O P O I N T 23240 Chagrin Blvd, Suite 200 Cleveland, Ohio 44122 216 831-4421 pointtopoint .com Point to Point is an advertising and interactive marketing rm that helps our clients identify, bring into focus and overcome complex marketing challenges. Our expertise in branding, interactive marketing, social media, SEO and media planning allows us to solve each clients unique problems in ways that maximize results. Our goal is always to be a catalyst of change for our clients by moving them from where they are to where they want to be. To nd out how we can help you build a more prosperous future, contact us: Scott Moss Director of Business Development 216-364-0432 smoss@pointtopoint.com
(Palgrave Advances in Luxury) Cesare Amatulli, Matteo de Angelis, Michele Costabile, Gianluigi Guido Sustainable Luxury Brands - Evidence From Research and Implications For Man